Your videos are extremely helpful thanks. In reference to the modified upper right timing chain guide in which you had to go to ford because the bolts are different ( one longer than the other). Do you have a reference number for those bolts?
I haven't seen it mentioned but the replacements for the cam bolts which are technically TTY I got from my Ford dealer as 7T4Z-6279-BA. The originals are T55 but I happened to compare them side by side to the part # above (purchased 8/21) and the new ones are undoubtedly Torx PLUS TP55. So, have a TP55 bit on hand. You MIGHT get away with standard Torx in a Torx Plus (TP) head, but if you round one of these fasteners that would suck! Beyond that, @Johncanfixanything, thank you for the vids. You put a ton of time into this and I would have botched the job without your guidance
I wish I could have seen the struggle pulling the timing cover off with the AC lines still connected (this part was left out) I managed (but a struggle) removing the motor mount without disturbing the AC lines but had to discharge and remove the lines to get the timing cover out. I figured too, when installing the cover back on, I don’t want it being a struggle messing up the silicone that I just applied to the cover. UPDATE I see later he advised to apply the sealant to the engine rather then applying it to the cover. I still don't regret discharging the AC, I have all the tools for AC work and glad those lines are out of the way when it comes time to install the cover and engine mount.
You mentioned that it is critical to get the timing marks correct before removing the chain. What procedure would I follow to get them correct if my main chain broke? I already did a compression test with an airline and gauge and all my cylinders hold air so I'm pretty sure my valves aren't bent.
Good day sir John. I am in the middle of this project and have reached where you must back off the crank to 9 so that you can remove the tensioner. All my marks are correct and I have the tools in place that lock it down. However I can’t rotate the crank from 11 to 9 there just isn’t enough travel. Basically only moved from 11 to 1030. Can I just remove tensioner like that?
Great walk thru. I'm in the middle of this project and it's going quite smooth thanks to your video's here. I do have a concern that my timing chain is loose between the large cam gears and the new water pump on both banks. All the tensioners are working. I'm hoping that once I get the VVT solenoids on and they get oil flowing into the cam phaser/gear that the chain will tighten up.
@@JohnCanFixAnything Thanks for the prompt reply. I turned the motor over a few times and everything snugged up. Did the OCV's go in really easy for you? They went into the Cam gear almost too easy for me. I checked the O-rings and everything looked great. But there was no friction at all pushing them in.
@@michaelmair1312 I'm trying to find a part number on those o-rings, once of mine tour as I was cleaning the part. They look rather flattened out, I suspect they should be rounded.
I’m on my third week of this project glad I bought an older vehicle that is easy to work on for transportation during these fiascos . I could rebuild an entire engine multiple times in the time it takes to do this job.
Note to John: Skipped over the last two steps on installing the chain.... I think. I got all three markers on but could NOT (as in NO WAY) get the chain to go over the left adjustable guide... Then I figured it has to be the adjuster, so I took it back out and the chain slipped right over the guide and I installed the guide under the chain and then the adjuster. Left top bolt first then worked (not easy) the adjuster up until it fit in its working area of the adjuster and lifted up on the adjuster until I could get the bottom bolt into the threads and get it started...then everything went fine. Now onto installing the end shield. It is ready, but "You only have 10 minutes to install and torgue the bolts? I don't think so. Still, I loved your videos.
I had a similar issue but you've got a bit of play in the system, ie the factory recommendations of the keyway at 11 o'clock are very approximate. I rocked the crank CCW very slightly to slack the chain and the tensioner installed with ease.
At 19:32 in the video you advise of a change number for the bolts on the left guide. I have the same issue, would you happen to have the new parts number? I went to the dealership and they were not able to find it. Great video by the way!
No, sorry I have not been able to find it. I did not get the new bolt from Mazda. I ended up going to my local Ford dealer and we referenced the Edgee and found it that way. I will try and go by there again and find out the number.
John, thanks for your reply. Your videos have been of great help. I was able to get the part number W716322-S437 from one of your viewer. Keep it up and God bless.
I am NOT doing this work myself, however, at what mileage point do you need to change the Timing Chain on the CX9 so I can prepare? My car has less than 100k miles.. Great video.
You should do it before 120k miles if I remember correctly. It's costly if you get it done by a mechanic - anywhere between $1500 and $5000 (mostly for the labour) but I'd do it promptly. Leaving it too late can destroy your engine.
@@JohnCanFixAnything but the car ran fine prior to starting the repair. Should I just take a chance and continue fixing this and keeping it at 01:00? What are my options?
The manual says rotate to 9 o’clock,compress tensioner to remove chain and then install the camshaft lock tool, if I install the tool first as you did will I be able to turn it back to 9 o’clock. ?
The lock will only go one way. Either the grooves line up or they don't. I may have moved mine a little to make them lock in. It has been a while so I don't remember for sure. Just make sure they lock in. that will keep everything straight no matter what the sequence.
Thanks for the video John. I been watching this before I start this project on my 2008 cx-9. Do they not sell a timing chain cover gasket? I'd rather use a gasket then silicon gasket maker. Also how come you choose not to use OEM waterpump/ timing chain parts any benefits to using a particular aftermarket manufacturer?
I noticed when you took your timing chain off, the paint marks on the chain were not lined up with the dots at 10:13, did this give you issue later on? I spenta long time turning my engine to line everything up.
It depends on the warranty and what it covers. Usually they will cover some but not all of the required repairs. Google your warranty and see what they say about it.
If anyone is having trouble finding the 4 Tork to yield intake and Exhaled cam shaft sprocket at the mazda dealer you can by these bolts at ford or any auto part store Napa, online as well (part number : NTP VCB114) Tell them it's a 2008 or 2007 ford edge 3.5 liter VVT timing sprocket bolts) hope that helps I stay in a small town 3 hours away from the nearest mazda dealer.
It showed a seeping leak right below the turbine but it had only gone through the first seal area. The second seal area was intact. Everything else looked almost brand new. One timing guide showed a little wear but that was pretty much normal.
OK, there are colored chain links (2 orange and one yellow) and you not only do not mention them, you do not have them aligned to anything. Care to reiterate or expound on this? I figured they were on there for a reason...... Please clarify.
Those colored marks on the chain are to align it with the timing marks on the gears. If you use those marks to align your gears, you can't make a mistake. The 2 orange marks need to align with the 2 top gears on the 0 and the yellow aligns to the crank gear on the 0. If all that lines up, it's perfect.
John thank God I found you please help me. I believe you are the guy I have been looking for. I have a 2010 Mazda cx9. My mechanic told me I need to replace the timing chain but he doesn't have the expertise to do it somebody recommended this channel to me and here I am. I don't know where you are. I can give you my number so we can talk. Please let me know. My car has 67000 miles on it. After watching your work I am impressed. Please let me know how we can do this. I am in Staten Island NY. Thanks.
On a 3.5 engine, I put the timing on top dead center, removed & replaced all 3 chains. Rotate engine to make sure timing marks are ok, engine turns 1/4 turn and locks up. Can anyone tell me what I did wrong? Please Help
Ouch! There are lineament dots on each cam and the crank. The problem is knowing how far you went. I am assuming it was not of the two overhead cams, right? I will open it up to the site for comments but this may be a question for a certified mechanic.
I am really not sure. Sounds like the head gasket might be gone. That sometimes allows oil that passes through to get into the coolant system. When you checked the dipstick did it have a white milky look?
If you add non Mazda Antifreeze to the existing antifreeze in the car, the mixture will turn black and look like oil has gotten in. Take a turkey baster, suck some out and put it in a clear glass bottle - see if it separates into oil and water, if it doesn't, it is just incompatible antifreeze mixture. Flush and refill with the right stuff. (It is now Blue in color at Ro****uto.com (FL22 type). If you want to test further, heat it to a boil to separate it . Mazda has a service bulletin (TSB) on it.
Help! When I tighten the bolts on the new water pump, even at the lowest torque the pump gets jammed, I can't spin it by hand at all. I know I'm aligning it right because the two metal pins are perfectly lined up prior to hand tightening the bolts... Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Alex Toth Alex, it sounds like you have the wrong water pump or it is defective. It sets only one way and there is nothing behind it to bind the shaft.
@@JohnCanFixAnything is a 2011. Mazda cx9 and the water pump I bought was the one on your link. I'm gonna try to tighten it little by little while tapping it slightly in different directions until it spins freely and see if I can get it to work that way. Your video is awesome and I'm trying to follow it closely, but I'm stuck right now with this issue.
@@alextoth2420 I don't think that will work. If you don't get the right torque then it will leak. There has to be something wrong with the water pump itself. I can't think of a way to get it wrong with the line up pins and the pump goes flush onto the housing. Maybe they shipped you the wrong pump? I have gotten parts that were in the right box but the wrong pump. I have not seen this issue before. If anyone has a suggestion please post it.
@@JohnCanFixAnythingUpdate: I bought two more pumps from different brands and you were right!!! , the pump I had bought was sticking out about a milimeter too far making it hit the metal inside when fully tightened preventing it to rotate. Both new pumps spin freely and feel different, they feel better. Thank you for the help!!! Now I can finally continue working on my SUV and hopefully save the engine... I'm doing this whole procedure because my coolant mixed with my oil... Wish me luck! lol
WATER PUMP FAILURE - BLOWN ENGINE: I have a 2010 Edge - I drive about 5K a year these days. A couple of months ago the water pump failed - only 65K in my Edge and I am having to replace the motor now. (really poor design by Ford) I didn't get any warning at the time of failure, water temp went high and damage was done! No "check engine" or other warning lights? Thanks Ford.
It's a horrible engine design. Just because you can cram 10 lbs of shit into a 5lb bag doesn't mean you should. Blown engines are the result of this stupidity. Sorry about your engine man.
Thanks you so much ,you are the best,No one explain this better then you,thanks you for you passion.
Your videos are extremely helpful thanks.
In reference to the modified upper right timing chain guide in which you had to go to ford because the bolts are different ( one longer than the other). Do you have a reference number for those bolts?
Thanks for all the details ❤
I haven't seen it mentioned but the replacements for the cam bolts which are technically TTY I got from my Ford dealer as 7T4Z-6279-BA.
The originals are T55 but I happened to compare them side by side to the part # above (purchased 8/21) and the new ones are undoubtedly Torx PLUS TP55. So, have a TP55 bit on hand. You MIGHT get away with standard Torx in a Torx Plus (TP) head, but if you round one of these fasteners that would suck!
Beyond that, @Johncanfixanything, thank you for the vids. You put a ton of time into this and I would have botched the job without your guidance
Great job, thank you!
I wish I could have seen the struggle pulling the timing cover off with the AC lines still connected (this part was left out) I managed (but a struggle) removing the motor mount without disturbing the AC lines but had to discharge and remove the lines to get the timing cover out. I figured too, when installing the cover back on, I don’t want it being a struggle messing up the silicone that I just applied to the cover.
UPDATE I see later he advised to apply the sealant to the engine rather then applying it to the cover. I still don't regret discharging the AC, I have all the tools for AC work and glad those lines are out of the way when it comes time to install the cover and engine mount.
On a 2010 Cx9? I left mine on, but it was in the middle of the camera shot on several of the pictures I wanted to take.
Hows the car running. i have a 2007 ford edge going to do it this spring
Like a new one before we traded it.
You mentioned that it is critical to get the timing marks correct before removing the chain. What procedure would I follow to get them correct if my main chain broke? I already did a compression test with an airline and gauge and all my cylinders hold air so I'm pretty sure my valves aren't bent.
Make sure you are at top dead center and the white dots match up on both sided and the bottom of the timing chain.
My hero 😊😊
Good day sir John. I am in the middle of this project and have reached where you must back off the crank to 9 so that you can remove the tensioner. All my marks are correct and I have the tools in place that lock it down. However I can’t rotate the crank from 11 to 9 there just isn’t enough travel. Basically only moved from 11 to 1030. Can I just remove tensioner like that?
Great walk thru. I'm in the middle of this project and it's going quite smooth thanks to your video's here. I do have a concern that my timing chain is loose between the large cam gears and the new water pump on both banks. All the tensioners are working. I'm hoping that once I get the VVT solenoids on and they get oil flowing into the cam phaser/gear that the chain will tighten up.
It will, that is normal until you release the new tensioners
@@JohnCanFixAnything Thanks for the prompt reply. I turned the motor over a few times and everything snugged up. Did the OCV's go in really easy for you? They went into the Cam gear almost too easy for me. I checked the O-rings and everything looked great. But there was no friction at all pushing them in.
@@michaelmair1312 I'm trying to find a part number on those o-rings, once of mine tour as I was cleaning the part. They look rather flattened out, I suspect they should be rounded.
I’m on my third week of this project glad I bought an older vehicle that is easy to work on for transportation during these fiascos . I could rebuild an entire engine multiple times in the time it takes to do this job.
Note to John: Skipped over the last two steps on installing the chain.... I think. I got all three markers on but could NOT (as in NO WAY) get the chain to go over the left adjustable guide...
Then I figured it has to be the adjuster, so I took it back out and the chain slipped right over the guide and I installed the guide under the chain and then the adjuster. Left top bolt first then worked (not easy) the adjuster up until it fit in its working area of the adjuster and lifted up on the adjuster until I could get the bottom bolt into the threads and get it started...then everything went fine. Now onto installing the end shield. It is ready, but "You only have 10 minutes to install and torgue the bolts? I don't think so. Still, I loved your videos.
I had a similar issue but you've got a bit of play in the system, ie the factory recommendations of the keyway at 11 o'clock are very approximate. I rocked the crank CCW very slightly to slack the chain and the tensioner installed with ease.
Buenos días me podrías explicar donde se incultura ubicado el sensor de temperatura de una masda cx9 modelo 2008 gracias
Hey, do you have the part number for the bolt on the upgraded slider? Closes one I was able to find so far was this one, 9YA4-2A-004
At 19:32 in the video you advise of a change number for the bolts on the left guide. I have the same issue, would you happen to have the new parts number? I went to the dealership and they were not able to find it. Great video by the way!
No, sorry I have not been able to find it. I did not get the new bolt from Mazda. I ended up going to my local Ford dealer and we referenced the Edgee and found it that way. I will try and go by there again and find out the number.
John, thanks for your reply. Your videos have been of great help. I was able to get the part number W716322-S437 from one of your viewer. Keep it up and God bless.
John thanks for your reply. I was able to get the part number W716322-S437. God bless.
Great Job!!!!
I am NOT doing this work myself, however, at what mileage point do you need to change the Timing Chain on the CX9 so I can prepare? My car has less than 100k miles.. Great video.
You should do it before 120k miles if I remember correctly. It's costly if you get it done by a mechanic - anywhere between $1500 and $5000 (mostly for the labour) but I'd do it promptly. Leaving it too late can destroy your engine.
@@rje613 Thank you for your reply, I appreciate it. I have 60k so I have time. But this is good info. I ❤️ my car.
@@MADMOMMA18 I have a CX-9 too and it’s an amazing car. Stay safe and have a good weekend!
Aren't those cam gear bolts torx plus
Hi john Iv been going all over the place trying to get this new bolt I need... where did you order this bolt.??
i went to the Ford dealer and he ordered it for me. The Ford Edge has the exact same engine.
Camshaft Gear torque spec as I found online was 37-44 ft lb.
Very detailed thank you. I've heard you have to pull the motor and trans. Definitely looks tight in there. Is this true?
There are several parts of this video but I never take the trans or motor out. It is tight but no issues.
@@JohnCanFixAnything 😃
John....no matter how many times I turn the chain to align cam shafts, I can only get 1 o'clock on the crankshaft. I suppose my chain had jumped?
I am afraid so. That is the only way they wouldn't align.
@@JohnCanFixAnything but the car ran fine prior to starting the repair. Should I just take a chance and continue fixing this and keeping it at 01:00? What are my options?
How long to replace it?
It took me about two days. But I took my time.
The manual says rotate to 9 o’clock,compress tensioner to remove chain and then install the camshaft lock tool, if I install the tool first as you did will I be able to turn it back to 9 o’clock. ?
The lock will only go one way. Either the grooves line up or they don't. I may have moved mine a little to make them lock in. It has been a while so I don't remember for sure. Just make sure they lock in. that will keep everything straight no matter what the sequence.
Thanks for the video John. I been watching this before I start this project on my 2008 cx-9. Do they not sell a timing chain cover gasket? I'd rather use a gasket then silicon gasket maker. Also how come you choose not to use OEM waterpump/ timing chain parts any benefits to using a particular aftermarket manufacturer?
I looked for a gasket as well. But did not find one, if you do please post it here.
It was price for me on the aftermarket parts and I could not see any difference in them.
Usually, how many hours is the labour for this engine to replace timing chain?
About 6 hours
give yourself a month lol She's a bear
Hi maté doing a water pump in my cx9 just wondering if you pass me the dimensions of the cam lock tool so I can get one machine 5:27
Hey bro thanks for the video another question what silicons you used special silicone.
Permatex Water Pump And Thermostat RTV Silicone Gasket. It's about $5.00 at your local parts store
Thanks bro
I noticed when you took your timing chain off, the paint marks on the chain were not lined up with the dots at 10:13, did this give you issue later on? I spenta long time turning my engine to line everything up.
No issues.
It took me a long time turn the crank to get mine to line up too
will an aftermarket warranty cover my cx 9 water pump and engine
damage?
It depends on the warranty and what it covers. Usually they will cover some but not all of the required repairs. Google your warranty and see what they say about it.
If anyone is having trouble finding the 4 Tork to yield intake and Exhaled cam shaft sprocket at the mazda dealer you can by these bolts at ford or any auto part store Napa, online as well (part number : NTP VCB114) Tell them it's a 2008 or 2007 ford edge 3.5 liter VVT timing sprocket bolts) hope that helps I stay in a small town 3 hours away from the nearest mazda dealer.
What was the condition of the old water pump? Any signs of slop in bearings or worn seals?
It showed a seeping leak right below the turbine but it had only gone through the first seal area. The second seal area was intact. Everything else looked almost brand new. One timing guide showed a little wear but that was pretty much normal.
OK, there are colored chain links (2 orange and one yellow) and you not only do not mention them, you do not have them aligned to anything. Care to reiterate or expound on this? I figured they were on there for a reason...... Please clarify.
Those colored marks on the chain are to align it with the timing marks on the gears. If you use those marks to align your gears, you can't make a mistake. The 2 orange marks need to align with the 2 top gears on the 0 and the yellow aligns to the crank gear on the 0. If all that lines up, it's perfect.
John thank God I found you please help me. I believe you are the guy I have been looking for. I have a 2010 Mazda cx9. My mechanic told me I need to replace the timing chain but he doesn't have the expertise to do it somebody recommended this channel to me and here I am. I don't know where you are. I can give you my number so we can talk. Please let me know. My car has 67000 miles on it. After watching your work I am impressed. Please let me know how we can do this. I am in Staten Island NY. Thanks.
On a 3.5 engine, I put the timing on top dead center, removed & replaced all 3 chains. Rotate engine to make sure timing marks are ok, engine turns 1/4 turn and locks up. Can anyone tell me what I did wrong? Please Help
So what if while trying to take cam gear off. My cam tool popped off how do I get it lined back up?
Ouch! There are lineament dots on each cam and the crank. The problem is knowing how far you went. I am assuming it was not of the two overhead cams, right? I will open it up to the site for comments but this may be a question for a certified mechanic.
is there a specific way to tourque small chains , where can i get the manuals with tourques?
Go to Alldatadiy.com and get the one year subscription. I have used them for years.
How much is total replacement parts cost including the required tools for this job.
It was under $500.00 . You can borrow the specialty tools from your local parts store.
@@JohnCanFixAnything Thank you
Dear #JohnCan i saw some oily shade in my coolant reservoir can you advise what is problem & solution ?
I am really not sure. Sounds like the head gasket might be gone. That sometimes allows oil that passes through to get into the coolant system. When you checked the dipstick did it have a white milky look?
@@JohnCanFixAnything Thanks for reply. No i never saw Milky white with dipstick i regularly checked
If you add non Mazda Antifreeze to the existing antifreeze in the car, the mixture will turn black and look like oil has gotten in. Take a turkey baster, suck some out and put it in a clear glass bottle - see if it separates into oil and water, if it doesn't, it is just incompatible antifreeze mixture. Flush and refill with the right stuff. (It is now Blue in color at Ro****uto.com (FL22 type). If you want to test further, heat it to a boil to separate it . Mazda has a service bulletin (TSB) on it.
Hey, John. I have watched your careful work. Are you anywhere close to Philadelphia, PA? I would definitely let you work on my son's Mazda 2012 CX 9.
No sorry, I am not close.
Can you give me the information for the chain guide bolt. I have the same problem. Thanks your help sir.
It is only available at the Mazda dealer. I went over and talked to the parts person and took the guide with me.
Ford part # W716322-S437
The Mazda dealers can't even find the bolt for the superceded guide you have to go to a Ford dealer like you said in the video
does anyone have a part number for that new bolt for the upgraded chain guide?
I don't but got mine at the Ford dealer and not the Mazda dealer. Mazda did not know about the change.
When I must change my Mazda CX-9 timing belt ? Please advice thank you
Anytime after 100.000 miles or if the water pump starts to go out.
Help! When I tighten the bolts on the new water pump, even at the lowest torque the pump gets jammed, I can't spin it by hand at all. I know I'm aligning it right because the two metal pins are perfectly lined up prior to hand tightening the bolts... Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Alex Toth Alex, it sounds like you have the wrong water pump or it is defective. It sets only one way and there is nothing behind it to bind the shaft.
@@JohnCanFixAnything is a 2011. Mazda cx9 and the water pump I bought was the one on your link. I'm gonna try to tighten it little by little while tapping it slightly in different directions until it spins freely and see if I can get it to work that way. Your video is awesome and I'm trying to follow it closely, but I'm stuck right now with this issue.
@@alextoth2420 I don't think that will work. If you don't get the right torque then it will leak. There has to be something wrong with the water pump itself. I can't think of a way to get it wrong with the line up pins and the pump goes flush onto the housing. Maybe they shipped you the wrong pump? I have gotten parts that were in the right box but the wrong pump. I have not seen this issue before. If anyone has a suggestion please post it.
@@JohnCanFixAnythingUpdate: I bought two more pumps from different brands and you were right!!! , the pump I had bought was sticking out about a milimeter too far making it hit the metal inside when fully tightened preventing it to rotate. Both new pumps spin freely and feel different, they feel better. Thank you for the help!!! Now I can finally continue working on my SUV and hopefully save the engine... I'm doing this whole procedure because my coolant mixed with my oil... Wish me luck! lol
I've read that if you spin the pump prior to install it can damage the bearing. Not sure if that info is accurate?
Can you post a list of torque specs?
They are already in the videos
WATER PUMP FAILURE - BLOWN ENGINE: I have a 2010 Edge - I drive about 5K a year these days. A couple of months ago the water pump failed - only 65K in my Edge and I am having to replace the motor now. (really poor design by Ford) I didn't get any warning at the time of failure, water temp went high and damage was done! No "check engine" or other warning lights? Thanks Ford.
It's a horrible engine design. Just because you can cram 10 lbs of shit into a 5lb bag doesn't mean you should. Blown engines are the result of this stupidity. Sorry about your engine man.
Llimp biscuits