You identified the problem very well ! Now I understand where all the issues with engine sludge on carcomplaints are a result of. All those engines with internal waterpumps that leak coolant into the oil, or headgasket leakage, result in engine sludge build up. Any coolant leakage into the oil changes the viscosity, and sludge blocks the oil passages. Those of us with the external water pumps only have to worry about head gasket failures. Good job keep up the great tutorials !!
Just replaced the water pump and primary chain on my '01 2.7. the engine was spotless inside... no sludge. The PO changed the oil every 3K... runs great.
My 2001 sebring just hit 200,000 km and I never had to change any timing chain or anything on it. The only parts I had replaced were the front wheel bearings, rear struts, the control arms, steering rack, and a new starter. All cost me $1700 with labour everything! Not bad for a 10 year investment!!! Great car! Also, my water pump never failed, still runs strong!
Ive had my Chrysler Sebring Touring for 2 years now, it had 69,998 miles, now its at 115,648 miles and still going strong. I change the oil every 5,000 miles and never have had any issues with oil sludge.
I have a 2005 Stratus with 173,000 miles. Gone through my outside sales job, and all 3 of my kids abusing it. Still running strong.... I’ve definitely got my money out if it, it’s now my hoopty commuter car.
purchased my 04 Intrepid 2.7 with 110,000 kms, now I am at 223,000 kms ( 133,800 Miles ) , changed the water pump , not the timing chain , changed every fluid in the engine, changed the transmission solenoid , use semi synthetic oil, change that every 3000 miles ( 5000kms ) zero engine sludge , keep it serviced religiously and fix whatever it needs immediately .. body is in great shape thxs to Krown, love the ride and plan on having it around a very long time ...
i own a 2000 intrepid 2.7 just hit 382,000 km bought it for 600.00 two years agoo has never let me down first dodge i have ever owned i am amazed its still going after the stories i have heard about the 2.7 blowing early
I have a 2005 Chrysler Sebring 2.7, and axle issues are much worse than engine issues on this car. Everyone talks about sludge and so on but my car already has 300.000 kilometers and no engine issues apart from overheating sometimes. But I had the wheel fall off twice because of axle issues.
The multitude of sludge issues, on many different makes and models listed on carcomplaints, confirms what you have pinpointed as the source of the problem. All these water pumps will leak a trace of coolant, they aren't precision made from the start. Good tutorial.
I had a 2000 Intrepid with the 2.7 V6. 418,000kms and still running strong. The rocker panel on drivers side rotted through so I had to let it go. I never replaced anything in the engine. I ran full synthetic oil for 10K kms intervals and never had an issue. At 315K it started to burn about half a quart of oil between changes, which is minimal. You are correct in the video in stating that regular maintenance is key to prevent problems. Hopefully Chrysler's newer 3.6L Pentastar will fare better
Have a 2007 Chrysler 300. 2.7. 197,000 miles. Got it with 20,000 miles. In 2018. We replaced radiator, water pump 2 times, alternator and 1 coil,. And head gasket blew when water pump failed the first time. Been a great car. Wife loves it. Hopefully no issues this year. Needs new struts. Have them but haven't put them on.
In 2018 I still stand by these engines with proper maintenance I’m still the owner of a Sebring and they have never left me stranded or given me issues
Prior to buying my 2004 Intrepid 2.7L at 192,000km in August 2013 I saw this video and many other ones commenting on the maintenance of the 2.7L. The mechanic that certified the car for me opened the hood, saw the engine and immediately said you bought garbage and you might as well change it to a 3.2 or 3.5L (Apparently they all use the same transmission idk) I did get the car certified but I felt like shit when I left his shop because I didn't want to pay for an engine replacement especially since I bought the car for $1,200.00 So the month after I changed the water pump, the chain and started putting only synthetic oil in it ($700 together). Almost 3 years later the car is 281,000km and still running smooth. I recently got an oil change and I asked the mechanic to drop the oil pan before putting the new oil in. There was no sludge found. I did a compression test and coolant pressure test on the engine. It read 130+ for all cylinders and no coolant leaks. At this point i'm actually curious to see how long the 2.7L will last. Will probably do another chain and water pump change this summer.
I'm getting a 2007 Chrysler Sebring Touring with the 2.7 Flex Fuel V6, it has 69,998 miles on it, my mechanic did all the work on it for the previous owner, soo I know the car had care and proper maintenance.
While this comment is 11 years after this video, I'll say the following: My 2.7 L Intrepid has 130,000 miles on it right now with the original water pump and timing chain. It has begun burning oil in the most recent 3k miles. I replaced the PCV valve at 128K miles a few weeks ago. I very recently drove it across the U.S. for a 1400 mile round trip. This showed me that the oil burning issue is substantially reduced, not eliminated, by the fresh PCV valve. I use Royal Purple 5-30 oil every 5000 and K&N filters every 5000 miles.
I have a 2001 Sebring 2.7 around 60,000 miles on it. It already burns oil and leaks some out of the oil pressure sensor. And I had to replace the plastic coolant bleeder valve. I replaced it with the metal one that won't crack again. Other than that it's a decent car. I use royal purple as well. Under the oil cap is squeaky clean, and I believe it's because of royal purple 👍
@@JesseMarrin Update: At 133,000 miles it rattled and died. To diagnose the cause I started disassembling the engine. I now know that there is no sludge inside. I know that the water pump is sound. I know that the timing chain is in correct tension. I still haven't found the cause.
My 19999 2.7 300m has managed over 270000km´s without any sign of oil sludge. I believe the former owner mentioned that he had replaced the waterpump once.
I did the water pump in my 04 2.7L intrepid Once the engine was apart I scrubbed everything on the top of the heads with diesel and a brush... I even had diesel in a spray bottle and I sprayed diesel into the oil ports and such.. once I finished cleaning the engine I allowed the oil and diesel to drain completely from the bottom of the pan for about 1day...in a warm garage...
Great Video Jesse I just got a Sebring Touring V6 Full, with 145.000 miles, and this car runs like new I love it. Went to my mechanic and he is going to replace the gasket do a tune up and ready to go.
I wonder how quick before you hate it? good luck though, but the 2.7 engines are a ticking time bomb even when you're ahead of the schedule maintenance.
I had a 2001 Sebring, changed the oil every 3,000/4,000 miles...Sold it with over 60,000 on it (mostly in-town driving) and it was perfect. The dealer said 'don't change the oil on this one and you have problems, change it and it goes and goes...Last I knew, it was still 'going'...
I had 1/4 million mile (404,000) on my 94 intrepid 3.3 Litre with no issues but fnt struts and control arm ball joint letting go causing the arn to "lift" beyond range pulling the right drive shaft to pull out ov the "CV" constant velosity socket and watched the bearings roll across the parking lot lol ))) glad it was in a parking lot. Had fnt struts replaced at 122,000 miles. However, with the 04 sebring I now have, much of the front end has needed replacement and of course the strut pads are wearing too causing the knocking (rattling) over bumps. Had both fnt control arms replaced and now this with struts! It's interesting as the car handle like my intrepid did which is like a dream but this newer (smaller/lighter) version seems to be more cost "needy". good luck all I wanna switch to a Pratt & Whitney JT8D Turbine and go AIR LOL Chris ))
My 2001 sebring just hit 200,000 km and I never had to change any timing chain or anything on it. The only parts I had replaced were the front wheel bearings, rear struts, the control arms, steering rack, and a new starter. All cost me $1700 with labour everything! Not bad for a 10 year investment!!! Great car!
Every engine requires maintenance. Specially oil changes as recommended by manufacturer depending on weather where it is used. Chrysler repaired the oil sludge problem after 2002 on that engine. It was caused by crankcase ventilation system; hydrocarbons were entering the oil and breaking down the additives. (owner of 2003 Sebring Convertible Limited 2.7 40k miles)
my cousin has a 2006 chrysler sebring with the 2.4 i think.. and the transmission was horrible and she never took care of it. im surprised that car is still running.
Great video. I just recently purchased a 2002 sebring 2.7 convertible with 140k miles on it. The body and frame are immaculate and i got it for almost nothing. Its evident that it was extremely well maintained. Doesnt burn oil, no blow by, oil stays clean. Guy who sold it to me said the water pump and timing chain was replaced(i failed to ask at what mileage). HOWEVER, i do have some concerns. While it runs and drives great, the oil light comes on and it has a code for the crankshaft position sensor. Even tho the oil light was coming on the dipstick said it full. To try to remedy this i ran a bottle of some stp oil treatment to thicken it up in increase oil pressure. Well that fixed the oil light but it made starting it hard. Would have to crank a lot before it fired up. So i did an oil change to start from scratch. Oil light is still off but it does struggle to start still. Sometimes it even sounds like its dry starting. I tried using a racing oil filter because while they don't clean as good as a normal filter, they have less resistance/better flow. It helped but did not totally solve the issue. The starting/cranking issue seems to be getting worse. The starter doesn't sound weak or anything. It will keep cranking as long as i hold the key. After she sits for a while i try cranking her for like 10 seconds, stop and wait 10 seconds, and she fires right up. Id like to know what jesse and the rest of yall think. The car didn't seem to have any cranking issues before i started messing with the oil.
I own a 2004 Dodge Intrepid 2.7L, and you're absolutely right about the water pumps. I've already had mine replaced for it's first go-round at about 95,000 miles (American miles). When the car was bought I didn't have the time needed to research its repair and recall history as I needed it for work right away. That was a huge bummer; out of my control. But, I was very fortunate though when I had my water pump done, I knew someone who knew someone who worked for the Grogan Chrysler dealership who was gracious enough to apply their employee discount toward my replacement and labor bill. It woulda been about 1250.-- otherwise. No one wanted to touch it, ya know? Because of that darn timing chain! I am fortunate, still, to report that, at it's current mileage status of 149,5---, the Intrepid is still going along just fine, aside of minor understandable issues for a 14 year old vehicle. But, you say Lucas 2 huh?...Sweet, I'll have to check that out. Thank you so much for your video!!
Jean Whicker-Parish glad it’s still helping you out! I made this video a few years ago and still stand by it, I have another Sebring a red one you see in my later videos and is nearing a water pump replacement not by symptoms but mileage! Gotta keep it running! Love these cars!
@@JesseMarrin again great video Jesse do you have any videos on the bleederville bursting I know they're cheap housing bleeder valve I replaced two of my 2.7 in 2 years timing chain water pump everything and still with another one out of it it went out again! What's building up that pressure I've got new everything at it now in the mechanic says the head gaskets are causing that is that true you think? He did the color code test saying the exhaust gas so I like the body style of the 07 Dodge Charger so I'm two grand to fix it all he says but it's only a year warranty thank you
My 01 Sebring 2.7 had 283,000 kms on it when the original water pump failed. The bearing went all at once so it wasn't sludged actually it was just like new inside! I also change my oil every 5000 kms with lucas and 10w40 castrol gtx. I just put a used engine in it with a new water pump and primary timing chain tensioner, no problems (besides an oil pressure sensor) yet. these 2.7's are just like any other engine, take care of them and they'll take care of you IMO.
You cannot compete with a poorly designed water pump and timing chain tensioner. However Chryster did slip a new upgraded water pump out in to the parts inventory without many noticing. The new upgrade replaces the plastic fins with with metal and the timing chain sprocket flange was extended out just a few millimeters for better timing chain clearance in the newly designed water pump that clears the water pump housing from timing chain friction. I haven't heard of a upgraded timing chain tensioner tho.
+Glendale Walter Hey Walter do you possibly know the part numbers for the upgrades I called them about a week ago just to ask if any upgrades have been made and the guy acted like he wasn't aware that there was any problems with the 2.7 at all . And Thanks for the information
imwolfman2020 Thats how they acted towards me too so i had to personally go check the parts out directly at the parts suppliers. I think this is something really fishy going on and probably been going on for years. I just recently go screwed over by an Official Chevy Theels Automobile Dealer in my area on this lemon this particular make and model of car. So the car just sits there in their car lot looking like a nic nac. If u have this car sell it or get a different car asap. These cars with this engine are no damn good no matter what people say bout maintenance up keep or parts upgrades. Like i said there is an upgraded water pump but the parts store and Chrysler acts shady bout it tho. I dont think there is a upgraded time chain tensioner tho and that is thee most important part besides the water pump to be upgraded but still with these i lost my faith in these cars. I hope the answers u and helps u.
+Glendale Walter I even told the guy I just bought it at an auction and I'm not looking for anything for free I just want the upgraded parts if you have upgraded. I have a 99' wide glide with the first twin cam motor and unlike the when the EVO motor was introduced and the V Rod came out Harley slacked on this one on Research & Development, so 5 upgrades and a bunch of one time tools I had to get at least they were honest and told people and now I have done what was needed and I'm not waiting for a failure that's definitely coming and I'm satisfied instead of looking for my next car from Japan , < that part was a joke ( not happening ) thanks again for the help!
@Shcubbebah with the sebring it is more of a PITA then the intrepid...the sebring you have to balance the motor on a floor jack as you will have to remove the passanger tire and motor mount just for starters.....it is very tight quarters to do the work but it can be done.
super important step when doing timing/water pump maintenance. replace the timing chain tensioner with an OEM or reputable brand like Melling. Chinese knockoff tensioners WILL fail (ask me how I know haha)
My bros car is a 00 Concorde just hitting 320k. 2.7l still runs strong almost beat a civic si uphill. We use only synthetic oil changes with nothing but penzoil. Treat this engine like a rotary with oil and it'll thank you with reliability and great gas mileage for a boat of a car.
I got a 00' Concorde 2.7L with 284000km on it now. Still runs like a top. I don't find it smokes at all. Runs very quietly! The key is frequent oil change! More frequently than the factory recommends!
You nailed it about the water pump. It is a strange and unfortunate design, which I might add is an issue with the 3.2L and 3.5L too, though their timing is belt-driven so the leaking coolant doesn't mix with oil (causing the sludge). The water pump still needs to be changed I say 80k miles or 7 years because a seizure risks the belt (bad!). I've seen several people with original 2.7s running 200k+ miles flawlessly (at least one closing in on 300k). It really is about preventative maintenance.
The water pump change is more critical than the timing chain. In theory, the timing chain should last a very long time... but when the water pump starts going and anti-freeze gets in there, the chain gets wrecked so if you can get the water pump before the thing starts leaking, the chain should be ok. But it's cheap enough to buy, and you have to get it off anyway.. so we change it while we're in there.
My boyfriend's mother had a Sebring Limited convertible for quite some time. It leaked oil, but for what it was worth, that car sure as hell had some oomph when you got into it. I never had the opportunity to beat on it, but I whole-heartedly believe they can last just as long as any other engine if you use synthetic oil.
Sorry for not explaing in last post, micron is the size of molecule for the oil. Full synthetic oil helps your car by having a more consistent viscosity. Think about the oil as it flows through the bearings. If you have a flow of 300 micron oil, followed by a short spurt of 150 micron oil, the bearing will not get the support they need to prevent the rotating metal from making contact with the bearing. Synthetic is not "syn" at all. It is just filtered, which is good! Your motor loves it!!!
Mine is running good, it's abiously not a race street race car. Thank God 🙏 I acquired one of the good ones. I love my charger 2.7 I mainly pimp it out for car show/spl competitions, looks super clean on 22" I'm satisfied with it
you are very very right my man, its always been a water pump issue. but unfortunately, especially where I live, we all can't take our car in ever 50 to 60,000 miles to get a timing chain and water pump change. its expensive and california is in a huge rut so usually I avoid these cars. but if you got the money, then yeah, great car to have BUT! if you got laid off or something, I mean where's the money going to come from to fix it ya know? but you know what, you are absolutely correct.
@blaikepp well no wonder why the pressure light doensnt come back on..... a thicker oil will seal things up more....but the oil pressure light will come on simply because the oil pressure switch goes bad...the 2.7 engine from 1997-2004 is recommended to use 5w30 and the 2005-present are to use 5w20 due to thin oil passageways... 10w40 is a bit thick for a 2.7 change your waterpump out and put a new oil pressure sensor in and use 5w30 synthetic and you will be set for a long time..
I have a 02 concorde with a 2.7 liter.. Engine rebuilt, mopar water pump, and tim. chain as well.. Now I have some emission codes such a p0441, p0056, p0158.. Runs and starts and sounds great.. Only problem i can see as well as the codes of course is the fact that it seems i have a air flow problem.. When idle its fine, when around town seems fine.. Problem is at hwy constant speed 45,55,70 etc.. Foot in same position or even cruise, i hear the engine/air flow engine rev higher and lower.
@rgssr i figured that out....turns out its a common issue....i however did not replace the water pump myself....the owner previous had done that.... and i guess had not replaced them.....i sold the vehicle and i doubt i will buy another with 2.7....i might if i can get ahold of a 2.4 sebring.
The reason why it burns oil are the exhaust valve seals are failing....did you replace them when you did the waterpump? Good write up...if you're looking to rebuild the 2.7 you might want to refer to some videos I have.
I just acquired a 2.7 2000. I got it for really cheap, I've been doing research and have heard about thr engine sludge issue. it has 215000, the car seems to be in good condition. I'm just trying to see what I need to do to check if its in good condition.
I had a 04 Ford Explorer that finally died at 290k miles. Was my fav vehicle. Now I got this 04 Dodge Stratus 6 cylinder 2.7l DOHC 24 valve. And it’s a complete and total nightmare working on this thing. You gotta take the front bumper off just to access the battery 😒 Now doing the valve cover gasket.
@Grodinz dont put higer viscosity....your oil pressure is bad if your replace it and the light comes back on your wires to the sensor are soaked in oil and need to be replaced as well..i just replaced mine and the light came back on due to bad wires... common on all chryslers as most of them use the same stupid sensor.
I know a lady that has over 200000 Miles on her Intrepid 2.7. She never took care of it and the 2.7 just keeps going. I have never known anyone personally that has had there 2.7 sludge up. I had a 2.7 Intrepid for 3 months from enterprise and loved that car plenty of power.
Four big problems with this engine.... 1) Water pump leaks water into the oil pan without any indication. 2) The oil capacity isn't as big as it NEEDS to be, therefor the oil operates at a higher than normal operating temperature,which will make the oil break down faster. Also drivers don't change the oil when they should be. This, along with small oil filters that reach filtering capacity way before most drivers change the oil. 3) smaller than normal oil passages, which quickly plug up when anything goes wrong with the oil....see # 1 and 2 and 4 4) the PVC system isn't very good, and causes alot of moisture to remain inside the engine, which causes sludge buildup. Short trips without getting the engine to proper operating temperature are the worst.
I've got a dodge 2001 Stratus on a JR platform/body this stratus SE came with 2.7 engine we do regular oil changes, and were on 205,000 miles . right now my timing cover bottom dripping oil on the (facing it with passenger tire off) bottom LHS. Someone use RV red silicone , or it wouldn't be leaking. Other wise still wouldn't use oil. It will still drip a little, even 2 hrs after the car is shut off. I first thought it was the oil pan gasket but there's only 3 sides to the gasket ,& it;s the timing cover side that doesn't have a gasket .
The best way to check this engine is to hold the gas to the floor and see how long the engine lasts under the full throttle test, then bring the car to the junkyard
We have a 2002 Chrysler Sebring and the oil light blinked a few times recently and now there is a clicking sound coming from the engine. We already changed the water pump. The car has 120000 miles. We are brining it to the shop tomorrow.
I wonder if you can add a little transmission fluid with detergent to the oil to help clean the sludge like we used to do the older engines. If I recall you only add about 12-16 oz when you change your oil.
Lucky you. Mine is in the shop right now with an estimate of 1800. to replace the water pump and timing parts. It will be there all week and I'm paying almost 200. to rent a car so I can get to work. Mine has almost 86,000 miles and I do maintain it. I'm going to start saving for a down payment for a replacement.
150,000miles today. Taking it on vacation next week to the Carolinas. Did its third tranny service last week and the pan was clean so clean I almost wish I hasn't bothered. This original engine (chain, trensioners, water pump all oem) purrs like a kitten and is still going 300 mi per wek at 30mpg, 200k, here I come.
I have condensation getting into my #1 spark plug hole.. Just cleaned it off my spark plug cap. Wondering if I have a water pump seep bearing going out an im getting antifreeze in the oil .. ??
Continued....up and down over and over (almost like its shifting from 3rd to 4th, but it is not!! The rpm's stay exactly the same1 Completely consistent and u feel nothing!! what do you think this could be??? P0441 says NVLD but could be many different things imo, and what ive read.. dont know where to start first?? any suggestions?? Btw thx for the video!! I totally agree with proper maintenance these engines can last forever!! thx again! Jay
@rgssr thanks for posting the videos on rebuilding the 2.7's few questions.is it easier to replace waterpump in the sebring or intrepid. i am looking at buying another sebring but i was going to find one with low miles and replace waterpump the minute i get it....from your video...it doesnt seem too difficult in the intrepid since the timing is at the front of the engine and easy to access however sebring looks like it must be from wheel wells how long does it take how difficult?
great vid..nice exhaust sound for the 2.7, sounds pretty deep. Also I have an Audi with the same prob, it has black deposits on the muffler tip, and it smokes a bit on startup, does that mean its burning oil. Or is that just common?
Reading over these comments that hate on the 2.7 engine goes to show me people will parrot anything just to fit in. I highly doubt they even know what causes the sludge issue. Here is the first clue, it's not the engine
R. Ardvark YUP! That is the culprit. Once it is replaced with the new one you won't have to worry about it breaking and leaking into your engine thus causing the sludge issue.
Thanks Jesse. In what years was this problematic engine produced? I have a 2007 Sebring with the 2.7L EER V6 (Gas/E85) engine. Does this have the same integrated water pump and sludging problem?
Men thanks for all this. I have a Chrysler Sebring 2005 GTC that has a letter C in the tittle. The car has 65,000 miles but I am expecting the car has 100,000 miles. The car was working fine till I decided to chain the oil, I didn't know what was using last owner so I decided to put synthetic oil to take better care of the engine. Always, after running over 45 minutes, the oil sensor will come up when I press the brake (when I stop). It didn't happen before. What should I do?
I have this car with 103k miles on it I had to change the water pump because there was a ice storm that screwed it up the car never broke down on me yet but im still sketched when driving because of its motors history gonna get a new car in 2 months hope it can last
My grandmother has a beautiful 2000 intrepid with the 2.7. Doesn’t even have 30k miles on it yet. Runs like a clock and I’m thinking about buying it off her
Thanks for making and sharing :) Thank you for the practical advice and well done video. 2000 Intrepid with the 2.7L--changed water pump and timing chain *tensioner* at about 65,000 miles / ~100,000 km ...hmm. Based on reading over perhaps 150 complaint descriptions on a few different websites, I got the idea/theory that the tensioner may be faulty. I hope it's not the chain or I may be screwed! :( I hope no car maker ever again makes an engine with an internal water pump, though!
If you have excessive blowby, make sure that the PCV valve, hoses and breathers are unrestricted and doing their job before going further. A faulty PCV system will build up sludge quicker than anything!!!
My '08 Avenger has the 2.7L 330016km, or 206 250 miles, with regular synthetic oil changes at 5-8000km. I have never touched anything on the engine, oil changes only, original spark plugs even. I don't believe that this engine has lost any power over the last 9 years and 206K miles. I have achieved 42mpg as of last fall 2016. Anyone who says these are trouble, I'd say they don't know how to drive or maintain an engine. warm it up, blow out the carbon regularly, and regular synthetic oil changes. Still excellent power and gas mileage after 9 years and over 200K miles!
if you are going to get a Chrysler V6.. you have to go for the 3.5... those engines are truly bulletproof, they are built tough and you dont have to change the water pump and timing belt every 50k.. you do it every 105k and your set... Chrysler does make good cars but it really is all about the maintenance to keep them going forever
we had a concorde and rebuilt the engine... it never had sludge when we had it and it ran like this, we bought it for $1000 fixed it for $1500 and sold it for $4200
I have one question about these Intrepids. I noticed on the model before this one the motor was placed in a RWD configuration. Normally in a FWD car the cylinders go from left to right but I noticed they were placed front to back instead. Intrepids were never RWD were they? Thanks!
@rgssr i figured that out....turns its a common issue....i however did not replace the water pump myself....the owner previous had done that.... and i guess had not replaced them.....i sold the vehicle and i doubt i will buy another with 2.7....i might if i can get ahold of a 2.4 sebring.
Thanks for the info. We have a seibring with this engine and it's been great so far. However at 120k it's literally falling apart. I have never had a vehicle were so many things went at once. I mean transmission, water pump, tieroends, headlight bulbs, brakes, drivers side window switch, windshield washer pump...I think I even missed a couple of things. I think this will be our last Chrysler product.
@@Natethegreat200c 🤣🤣🤣 you don't even know. I've got 4 Chrysler products sitting outside my house right now.... The 2013 Journey is now falling apart at 120 kms (75000 miles)...most Dodge products are good for 60 000 miles. Not much more. SO, HARDLY, ONE BAD CHRYSLER PRODUCT. My brother in law sold Chrysler products for 15 years...was service manager and general manager of a dealership. People who don't have a clue are annoying to me.
@@aitf99 well as a family who maintains theyre cars -ish we have 5. 2002 sebring LXI (didnt change the water pump and timing chain so the 2.7 is starting to show its ass) but runs and drives fine and reliably.110,000 miles. next is our 2006 chrysler 300c with 206k. only thing wrong and is being fixed as we speak is a sensor or whatever is causing it to stall but crank right back up. the part is hard to locate so its been in the shop a while but shes mint. next is our 2009 town and country Touring 168k miles and is a daily runs beautifully next is my 2015 chrysler 200c with 182k miles and is my abused daily. got it at 17 years old 4 years ago and love it. drive it alllllllllll over the place including using it for door dash and to get me to and from college and work. lastly is our 2020 jeep compass limited. also know other chrysler only families and fiat families that have the same or better success. just have to maintain it.
You identified the problem very well ! Now I understand where all the issues with engine sludge on carcomplaints are a result of. All those engines with internal waterpumps that leak coolant into the oil, or headgasket leakage, result in engine sludge build up. Any coolant leakage into the oil changes the viscosity, and sludge blocks the oil passages. Those of us with the external water pumps only have to worry about head gasket failures. Good job keep up the great tutorials !!
Great video Jesse!!
I´ve never seen a 16 year old explaining engine problems (especially on the 2.7) like this.
Respect!!
Just replaced the water pump and primary chain on my '01 2.7. the engine was spotless inside... no sludge. The PO changed the oil every 3K... runs great.
If you change the oil they last. Unfortunately the average American is too lazy to do it.
I bet that water pump was hell to do.
My 2001 sebring just hit 200,000 km and I never had to change any timing chain or anything on it. The only parts I had replaced were the front wheel bearings, rear struts, the control arms, steering rack, and a new starter. All cost me $1700 with labour everything! Not bad for a 10 year investment!!!
Great car! Also, my water pump never failed, still runs strong!
Ive had my Chrysler Sebring Touring for 2 years now, it had 69,998 miles, now its at 115,648 miles and still going strong. I change the oil every 5,000 miles and never have had any issues with oil sludge.
mine just hit 180.000 miles. It runs great.
its ppl that dont care about maintenance my Chrysler 300 doesnt burn oil leak oil etc. 160 k miles. and still running strong. ...2.7 liter
I have a 2005 Stratus with 173,000 miles. Gone through my outside sales job, and all 3 of my kids abusing it. Still running strong.... I’ve definitely got my money out if it, it’s now my hoopty commuter car.
purchased my 04 Intrepid 2.7 with 110,000 kms, now I am at 223,000 kms ( 133,800 Miles ) , changed the water pump , not the timing chain , changed every fluid in the engine, changed the transmission solenoid , use semi synthetic oil, change that every 3000 miles ( 5000kms ) zero engine sludge , keep it serviced religiously and fix whatever it needs immediately .. body is in great shape thxs to Krown, love the ride and plan on having it around a very long time ...
i own a 2000 intrepid 2.7 just hit 382,000 km bought it for 600.00 two years agoo has never let me down first dodge i have ever owned i am amazed its still going after the stories i have heard about the 2.7 blowing early
I have a 2005 Chrysler Sebring 2.7, and axle issues are much worse than engine issues on this car. Everyone talks about sludge and so on but my car already has 300.000 kilometers and no engine issues apart from overheating sometimes. But I had the wheel fall off twice because of axle issues.
The multitude of sludge issues, on many different makes and models listed on carcomplaints, confirms what you have pinpointed as the source of the problem. All these water pumps will leak a trace of coolant, they aren't precision made from the start. Good tutorial.
I had a 2000 Intrepid with the 2.7 V6. 418,000kms and still running strong. The rocker panel on drivers side rotted through so I had to let it go. I never replaced anything in the engine. I ran full synthetic oil for 10K kms intervals and never had an issue. At 315K it started to burn about half a quart of oil between changes, which is minimal.
You are correct in the video in stating that regular maintenance is key to prevent problems. Hopefully Chrysler's newer 3.6L Pentastar will fare better
Have a 2007 Chrysler 300. 2.7. 197,000 miles. Got it with 20,000 miles. In 2018. We replaced radiator, water pump 2 times, alternator and 1 coil,. And head gasket blew when water pump failed the first time. Been a great car. Wife loves it. Hopefully no issues this year. Needs new struts. Have them but haven't put them on.
You are the 1st persen ever, that I hear, that says good things bout those 2.7 engines :)
In 2018 I still stand by these engines with proper maintenance I’m still the owner of a Sebring and they have never left me stranded or given me issues
@@JesseMarrin update for 2020?
Prior to buying my 2004 Intrepid 2.7L at 192,000km in August 2013 I saw this video and many other ones commenting on the maintenance of the 2.7L.
The mechanic that certified the car for me opened the hood, saw the engine and immediately said you bought garbage and you might as well change it to a 3.2 or 3.5L (Apparently they all use the same transmission idk)
I did get the car certified but I felt like shit when I left his shop because I didn't want to pay for an engine replacement especially since I bought the car for $1,200.00
So the month after I changed the water pump, the chain and started putting only synthetic oil in it ($700 together). Almost 3 years later the car is 281,000km and still running smooth. I recently got an oil change and I asked the mechanic to drop the oil pan before putting the new oil in. There was no sludge found.
I did a compression test and coolant pressure test on the engine. It read 130+ for all cylinders and no coolant leaks.
At this point i'm actually curious to see how long the 2.7L will last. Will probably do another chain and water pump change this summer.
Those are great looking cars.
I'm getting a 2007 Chrysler Sebring Touring with the 2.7 Flex Fuel V6, it has 69,998 miles on it, my mechanic did all the work on it for the previous owner, soo I know the car had care and proper maintenance.
"The notorious 2.7, that's what this is!" lol.... well said! Great vids.
A friend of mine ran one of these for over 400k miles simply by doing regular oil changes. They're great engines when properly maintained.
While this comment is 11 years after this video, I'll say the following: My 2.7 L Intrepid has 130,000 miles on it right now with the original water pump and timing chain. It has begun burning oil in the most recent 3k miles. I replaced the PCV valve at 128K miles a few weeks ago. I very recently drove it across the U.S. for a 1400 mile round trip. This showed me that the oil burning issue is substantially reduced, not eliminated, by the fresh PCV valve. I use Royal Purple 5-30 oil every 5000 and K&N filters every 5000 miles.
There you go!!! Good maintenance goes a long way!!!!!
I have a 2001 Sebring 2.7 around 60,000 miles on it. It already burns oil and leaks some out of the oil pressure sensor. And I had to replace the plastic coolant bleeder valve. I replaced it with the metal one that won't crack again. Other than that it's a decent car. I use royal purple as well. Under the oil cap is squeaky clean, and I believe it's because of royal purple 👍
@@JesseMarrin Update: At 133,000 miles it rattled and died. To diagnose the cause I started disassembling the engine. I now know that there is no sludge inside. I know that the water pump is sound. I know that the timing chain is in correct tension. I still haven't found the cause.
@@jeromebarry1741 please keep me updated and let me know you have any questions
My 19999 2.7 300m has managed over 270000km´s without any sign of oil sludge. I believe the former owner mentioned that he had replaced the waterpump once.
I did the water pump in my 04 2.7L intrepid
Once the engine was apart I scrubbed everything on the top of the heads with diesel and a brush... I even had diesel in a spray bottle and I sprayed diesel into the oil ports and such.. once I finished cleaning the engine I allowed the oil and diesel to drain completely from the bottom of the pan for about 1day...in a warm garage...
Great Video Jesse I just got a Sebring Touring V6 Full, with 145.000 miles, and this car runs like new I love it. Went to my mechanic and he is going to replace the gasket do a tune up and ready to go.
I wonder how quick before you hate it? good luck though, but the 2.7 engines are a ticking time bomb even when you're ahead of the schedule maintenance.
Well I let u know when that time comes.
@@Iwatchvideosattimes They aren't. I'm driving one myself with 200k miles on it, a friend had one that went for well over 400k miles.
I had a 2001 Sebring, changed the oil every 3,000/4,000 miles...Sold it with over 60,000 on it (mostly in-town driving) and it was perfect. The dealer said 'don't change the oil on this one and you have problems, change it and it goes and goes...Last I knew, it was still 'going'...
I had 1/4 million mile (404,000) on my 94 intrepid 3.3 Litre with no issues but fnt struts and control arm ball joint letting go causing the arn to "lift" beyond range pulling the right drive shaft to pull out ov the "CV" constant velosity socket and watched the bearings roll across the parking lot lol ))) glad it was in a parking lot. Had fnt struts replaced at 122,000 miles. However, with the 04 sebring I now have, much of the front end has needed replacement and of course the strut pads are wearing too causing the knocking (rattling) over bumps. Had both fnt control arms replaced and now this with struts! It's interesting as the car handle like my intrepid did which is like a dream but this newer (smaller/lighter) version seems to be more cost "needy". good luck all
I wanna switch to a Pratt & Whitney JT8D Turbine and go AIR LOL
Chris ))
My 2001 sebring just hit 200,000 km and I never had to change any timing chain or anything on it. The only parts I had replaced were the front wheel bearings, rear struts, the control arms, steering rack, and a new starter. All cost me $1700 with labour everything! Not bad for a 10 year investment!!!
Great car!
is it engine 2.7? was it.
250000 miles on my dodge intrepid. You are right, they do require maintenance.
Use full synthetic oil, antifreeze and synthetic oil don't mix, no sludge.
Totally agree with you on this one. I don't even bother with regular oil for any of my vehicles.
People, change your oil ON TIME!!! That V6 engine design is sensitive to late oil changes. Change it between 3,000-4,000 miles max!
I have a 2009 dodge charger with a 2.7 with 189 thousand miles and it runs great.
Ever change the water pump?
@@jaimeperez2358 yes I did and it was not that bad.
Every engine requires maintenance. Specially oil changes as recommended by manufacturer depending on weather where it is used. Chrysler repaired the oil sludge problem after 2002 on that engine. It was caused by crankcase ventilation system; hydrocarbons were entering the oil and breaking down the additives. (owner of 2003 Sebring Convertible Limited 2.7 40k miles)
my cousin has a 2006 chrysler sebring with the 2.4 i think.. and the transmission was horrible and she never took care of it. im surprised that car is still running.
Great video. I just recently purchased a 2002 sebring 2.7 convertible with 140k miles on it. The body and frame are immaculate and i got it for almost nothing. Its evident that it was extremely well maintained. Doesnt burn oil, no blow by, oil stays clean. Guy who sold it to me said the water pump and timing chain was replaced(i failed to ask at what mileage). HOWEVER, i do have some concerns. While it runs and drives great, the oil light comes on and it has a code for the crankshaft position sensor. Even tho the oil light was coming on the dipstick said it full. To try to remedy this i ran a bottle of some stp oil treatment to thicken it up in increase oil pressure. Well that fixed the oil light but it made starting it hard. Would have to crank a lot before it fired up. So i did an oil change to start from scratch. Oil light is still off but it does struggle to start still. Sometimes it even sounds like its dry starting. I tried using a racing oil filter because while they don't clean as good as a normal filter, they have less resistance/better flow. It helped but did not totally solve the issue. The starting/cranking issue seems to be getting worse. The starter doesn't sound weak or anything. It will keep cranking as long as i hold the key. After she sits for a while i try cranking her for like 10 seconds, stop and wait 10 seconds, and she fires right up.
Id like to know what jesse and the rest of yall think. The car didn't seem to have any cranking issues before i started messing with the oil.
I own a 2004 Dodge Intrepid 2.7L, and you're absolutely right about the water pumps. I've already had mine replaced for it's first go-round at about 95,000 miles (American miles). When the car was bought I didn't have the time needed to research its repair and recall history as I needed it for work right away. That was a huge bummer; out of my control. But, I was very fortunate though when I had my water pump done, I knew someone who knew someone who worked for the Grogan Chrysler dealership who was gracious enough to apply their employee discount toward my replacement and labor bill. It woulda been about 1250.-- otherwise. No one wanted to touch it, ya know? Because of that darn timing chain! I am fortunate, still, to report that, at it's current mileage status of 149,5---, the Intrepid is still going along just fine, aside of minor understandable issues for a 14 year old vehicle. But, you say Lucas 2 huh?...Sweet, I'll have to check that out. Thank you so much for your video!!
Jean Whicker-Parish glad it’s still helping you out! I made this video a few years ago and still stand by it, I have another Sebring a red one you see in my later videos and is nearing a water pump replacement not by symptoms but mileage! Gotta keep it running! Love these cars!
@@JesseMarrin again great video Jesse do you have any videos on the bleederville bursting I know they're cheap housing bleeder valve I replaced two of my 2.7 in 2 years timing chain water pump everything and still with another one out of it it went out again! What's building up that pressure I've got new everything at it now in the mechanic says the head gaskets are causing that is that true you think? He did the color code test saying the exhaust gas so I like the body style of the 07 Dodge Charger so I'm two grand to fix it all he says but it's only a year warranty thank you
My 01 Sebring 2.7 had 283,000 kms on it when the original water pump failed. The bearing went all at once so it wasn't sludged actually it was just like new inside! I also change my oil every 5000 kms with lucas and 10w40 castrol gtx. I just put a used engine in it with a new water pump and primary timing chain tensioner, no problems (besides an oil pressure sensor) yet. these 2.7's are just like any other engine, take care of them and they'll take care of you IMO.
You cannot compete with a poorly designed water pump and timing chain tensioner. However Chryster did slip a new upgraded water pump out in to the parts inventory without many noticing. The new upgrade replaces the plastic fins with with metal and the timing chain sprocket flange was extended out just a few millimeters for better timing chain clearance in the newly designed water pump that clears the water pump housing from timing chain friction. I haven't heard of a upgraded timing chain tensioner tho.
+Glendale Walter Hey Walter do you possibly know the part numbers for the upgrades I called them about a week ago just to ask if any upgrades have been made and the guy acted like he wasn't aware that there was any problems with the 2.7 at all . And Thanks for the information
imwolfman2020 Thats how they acted towards me too so i had to personally go check the parts out directly at the parts suppliers. I think this is something really fishy going on and probably been going on for years. I just recently go screwed over by an Official Chevy Theels Automobile Dealer in my area on this lemon this particular make and model of car. So the car just sits there in their car lot looking like a nic nac. If u have this car sell it or get a different car asap. These cars with this engine are no damn good no matter what people say bout maintenance up keep or parts upgrades. Like i said there is an upgraded water pump but the parts store and Chrysler acts shady bout it tho. I dont think there is a upgraded time chain tensioner tho and that is thee most important part besides the water pump to be upgraded but still with these i lost my faith in these cars. I hope the answers u and helps u.
+Glendale Walter I even told the guy I just bought it at an auction and I'm not looking for anything for free I just want the upgraded parts if you have upgraded. I have a 99' wide glide with the first twin cam motor and unlike the when the EVO motor was introduced and the V Rod came out Harley slacked on this one on Research & Development, so 5 upgrades and a bunch of one time tools I had to get at least they were honest and told people and now I have done what was needed and I'm not waiting for a failure that's definitely coming and I'm satisfied instead of looking for my next car from Japan , < that part was a joke ( not happening ) thanks again for the help!
@Shcubbebah with the sebring it is more of a PITA then the intrepid...the sebring you have to balance the motor on a floor jack as you will have to remove the passanger tire and motor mount just for starters.....it is very tight quarters to do the work but it can be done.
super important step when doing timing/water pump maintenance. replace the timing chain tensioner with an OEM or reputable brand like Melling. Chinese knockoff tensioners WILL fail (ask me how I know haha)
My bros car is a 00 Concorde just hitting 320k. 2.7l still runs strong almost beat a civic si uphill. We use only synthetic oil changes with nothing but penzoil. Treat this engine like a rotary with oil and it'll thank you with reliability and great gas mileage for a boat of a car.
I got a 00' Concorde 2.7L with 284000km on it now. Still runs like a top. I don't find it smokes at all. Runs very quietly! The key is frequent oil change! More frequently than the factory recommends!
I have a Chrysler Concorde 2.7 with 214,000 miles all original
3month/3,000 mile oil changes do a lot. Don’t push it. modern “extended life” oils.
You nailed it about the water pump. It is a strange and unfortunate design, which I might add is an issue with the 3.2L and 3.5L too, though their timing is belt-driven so the leaking coolant doesn't mix with oil (causing the sludge). The water pump still needs to be changed I say 80k miles or 7 years because a seizure risks the belt (bad!). I've seen several people with original 2.7s running 200k+ miles flawlessly (at least one closing in on 300k). It really is about preventative maintenance.
The water pump change is more critical than the timing chain. In theory, the timing chain should last a very long time... but when the water pump starts going and anti-freeze gets in there, the chain gets wrecked so if you can get the water pump before the thing starts leaking, the chain should be ok. But it's cheap enough to buy, and you have to get it off anyway.. so we change it while we're in there.
+John Hilman yeah... it makes sense to go ahead and replace that timing chain as well because the water pump job is a pain in the ass..
Mines 2004 convertible pushing 120k miles running like brand new , any recommendations on keeping it that way ?
My boyfriend's mother had a Sebring Limited convertible for quite some time. It leaked oil, but for what it was worth, that car sure as hell had some oomph when you got into it. I never had the opportunity to beat on it, but I whole-heartedly believe they can last just as long as any other engine if you use synthetic oil.
Sorry for not explaing in last post, micron is the size of molecule for the oil.
Full synthetic oil helps your car by having a more consistent viscosity.
Think about the oil as it flows through the bearings.
If you have a flow of 300 micron oil, followed by a short spurt of 150 micron oil, the bearing will not get the support they need to prevent the rotating metal from making contact with the bearing.
Synthetic is not "syn" at all. It is just filtered, which is good! Your motor loves it!!!
Mine is running good, it's abiously not a race street race car. Thank God 🙏 I acquired one of the good ones. I love my charger 2.7 I mainly pimp it out for car show/spl competitions, looks super clean on 22"
I'm satisfied with it
22's? Yikes
you are very very right my man, its always been a water pump issue. but unfortunately, especially where I live, we all can't take our car in ever 50 to 60,000 miles to get a timing chain and water pump change. its expensive and california is in a huge rut so usually I avoid these cars. but if you got the money, then yeah, great car to have BUT! if you got laid off or something, I mean where's the money going to come from to fix it ya know? but you know what, you are absolutely correct.
@blaikepp well no wonder why the pressure light doensnt come back on..... a thicker oil will seal things up more....but the oil pressure light will come on simply because the oil pressure switch goes bad...the 2.7 engine from 1997-2004 is recommended to use 5w30 and the 2005-present are to use 5w20 due to thin oil passageways... 10w40 is a bit thick for a 2.7 change your waterpump out and put a new oil pressure sensor in and use 5w30 synthetic and you will be set for a long time..
This is a straightforward, honest engine. Why don't they put ceramic bearings in the w.p. ?
I have a 02 concorde with a 2.7 liter.. Engine rebuilt, mopar water pump, and tim. chain as well.. Now I have some emission codes such a p0441, p0056, p0158.. Runs and starts and sounds great.. Only problem i can see as well as the codes of course is the fact that it seems i have a air flow problem.. When idle its fine, when around town seems fine.. Problem is at hwy constant speed 45,55,70 etc.. Foot in same position or even cruise, i hear the engine/air flow engine rev higher and lower.
You saved my car's ass body!!! THANK YOU!!!!!!!!
everything you said is 199.9% correct. people do not change their oil and they blame it on the car.
@rgssr i figured that out....turns out its a common issue....i however did not replace the water pump myself....the owner previous had done that.... and i guess had not replaced them.....i sold the vehicle and i doubt i will buy another with 2.7....i might if i can get ahold of a 2.4 sebring.
The reason why it burns oil are the exhaust valve seals are failing....did you replace them when you did the waterpump? Good write up...if you're looking to rebuild the 2.7 you might want to refer to some videos I have.
I just acquired a 2.7 2000. I got it for really cheap, I've been doing research and have heard about thr engine sludge issue. it has 215000, the car seems to be in good condition. I'm just trying to see what I need to do to check if its in good condition.
I had a 04 Ford Explorer that finally died at 290k miles. Was my fav vehicle. Now I got this 04 Dodge Stratus 6 cylinder 2.7l DOHC 24 valve. And it’s a complete and total nightmare working on this thing. You gotta take the front bumper off just to access the battery 😒 Now doing the valve cover gasket.
Thanks for the important information!
I thought the same about the sludge deal that it's on the owner and maintenance.
@Shcubbebah I love the 4.0 Engine in the chrysler Pacifica with the 6 spd transmission. That is a good car with PLENTY of power.
Way to heavy
@@chrishuber8930You're way too heavy.
@Grodinz dont put higer viscosity....your oil pressure is bad if your replace it and the light comes back on your wires to the sensor are soaked in oil and need to be replaced as well..i just replaced mine and the light came back on due to bad wires... common on all chryslers as most of them use the same stupid sensor.
He lost me when said bulletproof engines...although never had any issues with my old 2.7L charger
He said bulletproof when taken care of which they are. Listen!
@@Natethegreat200c people don’t listen and then expect their cars to last on 12k oil changes.
I know a lady that has over 200000 Miles on her Intrepid 2.7. She never took care of it and the 2.7 just keeps going. I have never known anyone personally that has had there 2.7 sludge up. I had a 2.7 Intrepid for 3 months from enterprise and loved that car plenty of power.
Four big problems with this engine....
1) Water pump leaks water into the oil pan without any indication.
2) The oil capacity isn't as big as it NEEDS to be, therefor the oil operates at a higher than normal operating temperature,which will make the oil break down faster. Also drivers don't change the oil when they should be. This, along with small oil filters that reach filtering capacity way before most drivers change the oil.
3) smaller than normal oil passages, which quickly plug up when anything goes wrong with the oil....see # 1 and 2 and 4
4) the PVC system isn't very good, and causes alot of moisture to remain inside the engine, which causes sludge buildup. Short trips without getting the engine to proper operating temperature are the worst.
Change oil often - don’t let it run hot. Check oil level often
I've got a dodge 2001 Stratus on a JR platform/body this stratus SE came with 2.7 engine we do regular oil changes, and were on 205,000 miles . right now my timing cover bottom dripping oil
on the (facing it with passenger tire off) bottom LHS. Someone use RV red silicone , or it wouldn't be leaking. Other wise still wouldn't use oil. It will still drip a little, even 2 hrs after the car is shut off.
I first thought it was the oil pan gasket but there's only 3 sides to the gasket ,& it;s the timing cover side that doesn't have a gasket .
Oil Analysis will identify coolant in the oil, it will tell you if there is a problem long before a mechanic will sell you a new engine.
Good vid!
The best way to check this engine is to hold the gas to the floor and see how long the engine lasts under the full throttle test, then bring the car to the junkyard
Love it! I’ll give it a go 😂
In this car u must check pcv velve . If it's eating oli or is to much pressure when do this hand test .
We have a 2002 Chrysler Sebring and the oil light blinked a few times recently and now there is a clicking sound coming from the engine. We already changed the water pump. The car has 120000 miles. We are brining it to the shop tomorrow.
brianm1231 see my rebuilding video on my channel and confirm it's not the same knocking you hear in the first minute or two of the video
I wonder if you can add a little transmission fluid with detergent to the oil to help clean the sludge like we used to do the older engines. If I recall you only add about 12-16 oz when you change your oil.
Lucky you. Mine is in the shop right now with an estimate of 1800. to replace the water pump and timing parts. It will be there all week and I'm paying almost 200. to rent a car so I can get to work. Mine has almost 86,000 miles and I do maintain it. I'm going to start saving for a down payment for a replacement.
150,000miles today. Taking it on vacation next week to the Carolinas. Did its third tranny service last week and the pan was clean so clean I almost wish I hasn't bothered. This original engine (chain, trensioners, water pump all oem) purrs like a kitten and is still going 300 mi per wek at 30mpg, 200k, here I come.
keep up the vids man, theyre great!
134,000 is not high mileage on a modern engine.
Its high mileage for a Chrysler, fiat and chevy and even a Mercedes. Now for a Toyota and Honda , the engines are just breaking in.
Ah no. Any engine with over 75k is technically high mileage.
@@jopisano67 thats a bunch of bullshit. I had this same motor with 450 k miles.
@@jopisano67 there is no such thing as breaking in after that long.
@@jopisano67 its called doing preventative maintenance. If you didnt do that in your honda or toyota boom just lkme every other one
I have condensation getting into my #1 spark plug hole.. Just cleaned it off my spark plug cap. Wondering if I have a water pump seep bearing going out an im getting antifreeze in the oil .. ??
I never had problems with my Sebring 2.7 I keep up on maintenance regular oil changes and my car has close to 81,000 miles on it
Continued....up and down over and over (almost like its shifting from 3rd to 4th, but it is not!! The rpm's stay exactly the same1 Completely consistent and u feel nothing!! what do you think this could be??? P0441 says NVLD but could be many different things imo, and what ive read.. dont know where to start first?? any suggestions?? Btw thx for the video!! I totally agree with proper maintenance these engines can last forever!! thx again! Jay
@rgssr thanks for posting the videos on rebuilding the 2.7's
few questions.is it easier to replace waterpump in the sebring or intrepid.
i am looking at buying another sebring but i was going to find one with low miles and replace waterpump the minute i get it....from your video...it doesnt seem too difficult in the intrepid since the timing is at the front of the engine and easy to access however sebring looks like it must be from wheel wells how long does it take how difficult?
"Oh shit!"
Priceless!
"Oh shit"
Must've gotten too good of a look at the engine.
How much does it typically cost to change a water pump on a Chrysler 2.7?
Quarter state is bad for slegde. And a 5w40 syn will help also.
ford uses 5-20 wt in their 3.8, wonder if doing that to the 2.7 will improve the issues being mentioned here...
great vid..nice exhaust sound for the 2.7, sounds pretty deep. Also I have an Audi with the same prob, it has black deposits on the muffler tip, and it smokes a bit on startup, does that mean its burning oil. Or is that just common?
For Audi it's common.
Reading over these comments that hate on the 2.7 engine goes to show me people will parrot anything just to fit in. I highly doubt they even know what causes the sludge issue. Here is the first clue, it's not the engine
+John vape How about a few more clues. I have a 2000 Chrysler Concorde.
R. Ardvark It's a component inside the engine that has plastic fins :P I have a '99 dodge intrepid
Thanks John. Is it the water pump(since its basically in the engine)?
R. Ardvark YUP! That is the culprit. Once it is replaced with the new one you won't have to worry about it breaking and leaking into your engine thus causing the sludge issue.
+John vape found the 2.7 owner lol
Thanks Jesse. In what years was this problematic engine produced? I have a 2007 Sebring with the 2.7L EER V6 (Gas/E85) engine. Does this have the same integrated water pump and sludging problem?
I have a 07 Sebring as well and was wondering the same thing.
Yes.
Men thanks for all this. I have a Chrysler Sebring 2005 GTC that has a letter C in the tittle. The car has 65,000 miles but I am expecting the car has 100,000 miles. The car was working fine till I decided to chain the oil, I didn't know what was using last owner so I decided to put synthetic oil to take better care of the engine. Always, after running over 45 minutes, the oil sensor will come up when I press the brake (when I stop). It didn't happen before. What should I do?
Nice video. I have a question. I got a 2003 Chrysler Concorde v6 2.7l. My question is... Will a 3.5 engine from a Chrysler LHS fit in the Concorde?
3.2L & 3.5L engines were optional in the Concorde and will bolt in.
I have this car with 103k miles on it I had to change the water pump because there was a ice storm that screwed it up the car never broke down on me yet but im still sketched when driving because of its motors history gonna get a new car in 2 months hope it can last
My grandmother has a beautiful 2000 intrepid with the 2.7. Doesn’t even have 30k miles on it yet. Runs like a clock and I’m thinking about buying it off her
Thanks for making and sharing :) Thank you for the practical advice and well done video. 2000 Intrepid with the 2.7L--changed water pump and timing chain *tensioner* at about 65,000 miles / ~100,000 km ...hmm. Based on reading over perhaps 150 complaint descriptions on a few different websites, I got the idea/theory that the tensioner may be faulty. I hope it's not the chain or I may be screwed! :( I hope no car maker ever again makes an engine with an internal water pump, though!
If you have excessive blowby, make sure that the PCV valve, hoses and breathers are unrestricted and doing their job before going further. A faulty PCV system will build up sludge quicker than anything!!!
My '08 Avenger has the 2.7L 330016km, or 206 250 miles, with regular synthetic oil changes at 5-8000km. I have never touched anything on the engine, oil changes only, original spark plugs even.
I don't believe that this engine has lost any power over the last 9 years and 206K miles.
I have achieved 42mpg as of last fall 2016.
Anyone who says these are trouble, I'd say they don't know how to drive or maintain an engine.
warm it up, blow out the carbon regularly, and regular synthetic oil changes.
Still excellent power and gas mileage after 9 years and over 200K miles!
Fuelly says 23.4 mpg for model year 2008.
if you are going to get a Chrysler V6.. you have to go for the 3.5... those engines are truly bulletproof, they are built tough and you dont have to change the water pump and timing belt every 50k.. you do it every 105k and your set... Chrysler does make good cars but it really is all about the maintenance to keep them going forever
2006 with 225,000 miles runs perfect ,
we had a concorde and rebuilt the engine... it never had sludge when we had it and it ran like this, we bought it for $1000 fixed it for $1500 and sold it for $4200
I have one question about these Intrepids. I noticed on the model before this one the motor was placed in a RWD configuration. Normally in a FWD car the cylinders go from left to right but I noticed they were placed front to back instead. Intrepids were never RWD were they? Thanks!
@rgssr i figured that out....turns its a common issue....i however did not replace the water pump myself....the owner previous had done that.... and i guess had not replaced them.....i sold the vehicle and i doubt i will buy another with 2.7....i might if i can get ahold of a 2.4 sebring.
Thanks for the info. We have a seibring with this engine and it's been great so far. However at 120k it's literally falling apart. I have never had a vehicle were so many things went at once. I mean transmission, water pump, tieroends, headlight bulbs, brakes, drivers side window switch, windshield washer pump...I think I even missed a couple of things. I think this will be our last Chrysler product.
i hate when someone gets ONE bad chrysler and rule them out. its so annoying.
@@Natethegreat200c 🤣🤣🤣 you don't even know. I've got 4 Chrysler products sitting outside my house right now....
The 2013 Journey is now falling apart at 120 kms (75000 miles)...most Dodge products are good for 60 000 miles. Not much more.
SO, HARDLY, ONE BAD CHRYSLER PRODUCT. My brother in law sold Chrysler products for 15 years...was service manager and general manager of a dealership.
People who don't have a clue are annoying to me.
@@aitf99 well as a family who maintains theyre cars -ish we have 5. 2002 sebring LXI (didnt change the water pump and timing chain so the 2.7 is starting to show its ass) but runs and drives fine and reliably.110,000 miles. next is our 2006 chrysler 300c with 206k. only thing wrong and is being fixed as we speak is a sensor or whatever is causing it to stall but crank right back up. the part is hard to locate so its been in the shop a while but shes mint. next is our 2009 town and country Touring 168k miles and is a daily runs beautifully next is my 2015 chrysler 200c with 182k miles and is my abused daily. got it at 17 years old 4 years ago and love it. drive it alllllllllll over the place including using it for door dash and to get me to and from college and work. lastly is our 2020 jeep compass limited. also know other chrysler only families and fiat families that have the same or better success. just have to maintain it.
@@Natethegreat200c enjoy them. I live in a pretty cold climate. Winter is hard on stuff here. I will admit that.
@@aitf99 same with us in detroit.