It does matter which side of the fuse your tap is on. One side of the fuse will be connected to power all the time, the other side is "after" the fuse. If you put the tap on the side that is connected to power all the time, it is not fused (If the fuse blows, your kit will still have power). If you put it on the other side, the kit will be protected by the fuse.
@@weekendwarrior7080 Nope that's not at all the case. It's what Richard says above!To find out which side is the 'hot' one, you have to use a volt meter with the fuse unplugged. The hot side has +12 volts with the fuse unplugged. The 'down-stream' side of the fuse has 0 volts as measured to the chassis ground.
Will bet the fuse has an upstream protection as well, in this case it will just mean that you blow the upstream fuse rather than the 15A fuse, which will probably result in the engine stopping as multiple feeds to the ECU units will be broken by the blowing of the 60A engine ignition fuse. Or he will have to buy a multifuse module if it has one.
I noticed that as soon as Ray said it doesn't matter. The tap should be on the load side of the fuse, in order to protect the "kit" in case it gets an internal short ... you want the fuse to blow and protect the car.
I have a “high idle” mode installed on my couch - I press a button, the couch reclines and up go my legs into “high idle” mode! Lol. I use this to watch your videos Ray. 👍Dave Birmingham England
Ray, it does matter which side of the fuse you pull power from. One side is fused through the 10A cruise fuse. The other side is not fused. So if you use the unfused side, your wire to the switch will also not be fused. That is a hazard :-) Thanks for yet another great video :-)
We had automatic high idle on our duramax ambulances. The active switch was disabled unless in park with the parking break set. The 6.7 powerstroke system did not require an extra kit and was all done by adding a switched resistor so we used a variable resistor to select the high idle speed based on our amp gauge. Just about every ambulance had an old fashioned amp bar to monitor charge/discharge because we had so many AC draws for medical equipment .
For your prep weather cruz som boondocking videos and see the new power thing people are adding to their trucks besides what you are doing BTW I love my battle born batteries so far no issues in years, discharge and charge as noted for us
You are most correct.... Ambulances draw huge amounts of electrical power.... the environmental systems on ambulances (heating and cooling systems) is huge.... then there is the high intensity cab lighting etc etc.... Ambulances were massively improved with LED lighting... It was not uncommon that the amperage draw on interior lighting alone was 20 amps... which today is now 2 with LED's then there is also the demand from inverters to run I.V. pumps etc etc... I always spec'd huge Leece Neville alternators and automatic idle controllers ...
Exactly what I was thinking. One side of the fuse has 12V directly from the battery, so you are bypassing the fuse itself, and that could lead to fire when a short is happening. You should use the side that is not directly connected to the battery, so it is secured by the same fuse in case of a short.
I started to make this comment as soon as I heard that the side doesn't matter. I then saw some someones beat me to the punch. For protected power, yes it does matter. That's the whole idea of having fuses. Don't wire you house that way.
23:10 It matters which side the electrical connector is on because on one side, there is a constant 12V, and on the other side, there will be 12V through the fuse. The wire should be connected to this side so that the circuit is protected by the fuse
Rainman Ray's Repairs.. Cool upgrade to the truck for sure. The fuse tap should be on the load side of the fuse so if the fuse blows it will turn off the high idle system you installed otherwise you have no fuse protection. Not sure which side you installed the fuse tap on though. Just something to consider.
I didn’t realize that hurricane season cuts electricity for days. A friend of mine lived in in N Carolina. But their apartment had electricity within a day. Here up north we have ice rains and heavy snowfalls that push the power lines to a breaking point. With no power we use candles for light, for warmth we have a fireplace, fridge stuf just put it in a snow. It ain’t that bad.
Hurricane Andrew.... this Ottawa kid was in Florida when Andrew hit. Palm trees were already a novelty to me. Seeing palm trees flying past our hotel window was scary. And then the power went out for a few days. We were lucky. I applaud you for planning ahead. Another great video.
I wired the auxiliary batteries in my Suburban with a golf cart relay that connects them to the vehicle's electrical system only when the ignition is "ON". They are isolated at all other times. In this way, they charge when driving, but don't drag down the vehicle batteries when stopped, and I don't have to remember to switch them in and out. Solid-state isolators work; but there is a 0.7 Volt drop across them, preventing the aux batteries from reaching full charge.
This reminds me of my days building ambulance's and rescue vehicles. They had a small electronic box mounted under the dash with a button to idle up the engine when they were at a call and needed power from the vehicle. The idler could only be engaged in park. At the time they replaced the stock alternators with heavy duty Leece Neville's for extra amps.
Morning ray! to answer your question, yes the LBZ was available in manual. I believe it came with the ZF6 6 speed. however everybody loved the Allison so much, there are very very few out in the wild. Also, 2007 was the last year a manual was offered with the duramax
What about in medium duty trucks? I think that went with several other tranny options for a few more years... I thought the LMM in 2007.5 only was available with a manual....
I used to drive coaches and at refreshment stops we used to keep coach running to keep interior cool ( hot hot hot Northern Australia), coaches had Detroit 6v92ta ( 2 stroke) engines and we had high idle fitted as these engines were prone to glazing of cylinders.
Fuse tapping however seams junk AF! And it does matter which side you connect your circuit! Because if you use fuse leg before incoming power from battery even after fuse blows there still will be power in your connected circuit! Before installing fuse check panel with multimeter and tap side where there is no power after fuse is removed! This way your circuit also loose power after fuse goes out!
A diesel generator with an automatic tranfer switch installed could start at $15,000. This may just be a temporary use until he gets that to his budget‼️💯
"Activate factory turbo brake" Ray, I watch you "every" morning, you're like my morning coffee, keep up the great work. I just watched your high idle video and I just know, you'll love this hack.. I personally performed this on my 06 LBZ 3500 dually chassis cab (Weld Rig) and it worked awesome and makes a big difference in slowing down heavy loads without the use of the brakes. My Weld Rig was 13,200lbs rolling weight. (as I now have a 2015 F-450 CC) There wasn't as much (or many) articles about this mod when I did it back in 06. Essentially, if (when) you ground pin #53 (at the cpu) it activates the (factory) turbo brake and sends 12v to pin #11 (which I did not use). I modified a round, illuminated toggle switch with a 12v feed that completes (illuminates) when the the switch is "on" completing the circuit to ground, which provides the ground back to pin # 53, activating the turbo brake, which will only work when your are in tow/haul mode and approximately 1 - 2 seconds after you lift the throttle .. Have fun with this one and keep up the great work..
Ray is correct about electricians leaving detritus when they are done. I worked IT data centers and any time electricians were part of the work, there was this one “clean up” guy who would come in just before they left and sweep up all the stuff left on the floor, bottom of racks/cabinets, or under the raised floor. I was told by management it was the most cost-effective use of resources (people) based on hourly rate.
My dad and father in law were both electricians. I asked why they just tossed stuff on the floor. They both answered the same; 'The cleanup guys need to eat, too'.
ray, as others said, please check if you have that tap line connected to the load side, not source side. if that small wire ever rubbed to the body, it could cause fire just because the current wasnt big enough to blow the main fuse. that's what i concerned the most, not you getting stranded because of blown main fuse. another thing i would suggest is to upgrade the alternator to hairpin stator style alternator. they can dump more amperage at low speed and slightly more efficient compared to the old slot wound stator. not sure how many amps you're going to pull from the alternator but having bigger headroom is better for longevity. no need to go super big like 300A+, maybe you can get smaller ones like 200-250A
I love how Ray was all excited by the gizmo he installed and had to tell Wife Unit! She was truly impressed. I'm the same way with my wifey. I build something cool and she's the first person I want to tell. Good job Ray.
Hey Ray, the easiest way to get wires through the firewall is to use a DIY conduit. In this case, cut a length of 1/4 inch soft copper tubing. ream the inside and dress both inner and outer edges so they are not sharp. Push the tube through the rubber grommet of the firewall. Once through, insert the wire into the tube, pull it through, then remove the tube. If you can get all three wires into the tube at once, even better, otherwise, repeat procedure for each wire.
Ray, I ALWAYS love wiring jobs. I did all my own wiring for the lighting on my Jeep TJ. Up to and including making the switch panel. On your switch: If it had been me, I would have left the insulated female spade connectors in place, and added insulated male connectors to the switch. That would make it easier if you did need the change switch, and it would allow you to disconnect the switch when you have to remove the bezel in the future.
Hey Ray! Save your money on the big deep cycle batteries and instead get a high output alternator. Like a 220 amp. You can also get smaller pulleys on the alternator to give you better output at slow engine speeds. The batteries would only provide you with power when the truck wasn’t running or for a peak demand of high power like starting motors like the fridge. On their own, they wouldn’t last very long. You would need to add quite a few batteries to make it through the night with a 2000w draw. For reference, your alternator would need to output 165 amps to supply a 2000w @120v inverter. That would give you about 15 amps to the house. BTW get a pure-sine wave output to run electronics like video editors.
what is a pure sine wave you must be European they like to use words like literally pure like it's like a tag I mean literally like., a pure thing😮😢😅😂 linguistics is a trip😅
@@slayer2-y8m hey! Thanks for the reply, but I’m not European, I just know what electrical interference can do to a TV or computer. I guess I am old enough though, in that I tried to run DOS commands with generators that had dirty power. It was so bad the floppy drives sounded like plinko games!
Thicker gauge soldering wire works great for fishing wires through firewalls. Just stiff enough to poke through, but soft enough to bend around small obstacles. As an added benefit, it's easy to bend the end of the wire around the wire you're trying to fish and make a "basket" to carry it.
Hey now! As an electrician , I find that exactly correct! We do throw the tape on the floor, then step on it, and it stays on the bottom of your boot for a couple days! L o l
The wiring on those trucks is relatively simple. It's when you have to deal with cars that have multiple CAN networks and 20 modules talking to each other, when it becomes a PITA working on them.
One of the things about automotive wiring that gets me. I used to work as an electrician helper, and my dad was an electrician. So, I'm used to black being the hot wire and green, or bare copper, being the ground wire. In automotive wiring black is the ground wire. One of those things where just out of habit, I will connect the hot wire to the ground wire.
GM’s choices for PCM locations will never cease to blow my mind. 05:46 What could ever go wrong with locating a huge wiring harness where road spray can reach it. It’s time for the GM engineers to stop puffing and start passing.
Ray - whilst the truck mods are a good way of adding options for power supply during hurricane season you would do much better getting a small diesel generator that could run 24/7 and sufficient storage for a weeks supply of diesel - rotate the stored diesel thru the Silvery Rado to ensure you always have fresh diesel
Perhaps, but I already have gas generators, but I want 120v AC in the truck also. It serves multiple purposes for me. With fuel capacity at 120gal of diesel I don’t have to lug Jerry cans around.
depends on the batteries. if those are vented, yes absolutely. but some more modern batteries like AGM batteries or marine grade batteries (which I think often are AGM) usually are no longer vented.
As a mechanical engineer who became a Controls Engineer (meaning I got to learn a lot of electrical on the job) and had to do startups: It is, in fact, rule that your waste goes on the floor.... even if it wasn't a rule.... that's just where it would go because it's too much pain in the ass to manage all the tiny bits of insulation you strip off, especially when they sometimes go flying when you don't want them to. Much easier and time efficient to clean them up when the job site gets cleaned at the end anyways. I believe this to be the origin of the rule.
You need to be on the fused side of that 10a,or better still get the piggyback style as that allows a separate fuse for the original usage and a separate one for the add on application.
23:04 the power comes into the fuse on one side, travels across the part that burns out with more than a 10 amp load, then goes back down the other prong or leg into the panel connection and into the circuit. You can get power from both legs but you need to connect downstream of the fuse to utilize it.
Another extremely interesting operation. Such a change from watching AC getting recharged. Ray, your maths had me worried with the ECM. Rows were/are 24 pins so the right hand ones were 24/48/72/96. I got a bit worried the way you were counting down the rows at first. More of these please.
For the future project I suggest you use lithium iron phosphate batteries and a dc to dc charger (renogy makes one). The dc to dc keeps from burning out the alternator. The LiFePO4 batteries can be drained to zero and still charge, function and last much longer than deep cycle batteries.
Ray. Obviously there have been comments 're fuse protection. If you have the connection on the constant live, pull the fuse and flip it around for instant protection. ps. Did I see one of your tops water or oil out of alignment? You know it's good only when you have them straightened up. Nice installation as always.
I can verify that anything with electrical waste is thrown onto the floor or even inside the thing being repaired. Maintenance had to install a new motor in one of my machines at work about six months ago. The electrical waste was either on the floor or inside the machine.
Since you're a mechanic you should get one of those industrial generators you pull behind the truck. Get an old one you can fix. That would supply plenty of power.
I applaud your planning for hurricanes. I should do the same for earthquakes. I do one thing religiously, keep no less than a half tank of gas in my truck. I do have a 7500 watt generator, but need to get that connect box added to the house wiring. I've read here on RUclips how to do it. I am leery of electricity, mainly because of ignorance. But I do know it is an easy add, shouldn't be too expensive. Thanks again Ray for another entertaining video. Best of luck to you in this and future hurricane seasons.
I found it interesting that your Cruise Control is RPM based rather than speed. Also if you're going to batteries in the back of the truck I suggest using Lithium, much better power to weight density, plus it doesn't really matter if you run them flat.
The cruise control itself is not RPM based, it is based on a set speed. The PCM modules on those trucks just have a feature to allow this high idle mode, where the high idle is controlled by the cruise control controls. Usually those trucks are equipped with such features, if they are converted into kind of utility trucks, or with snow plows or such attachements. I think you may even get them with a sort of PTO and hydraulic pump if you need. Switching on the PTO would then also engage the high idle mode. That is what rays tow truck is missing, which is why he has to stick some piece of metal on the gas pedal, to get a high idle. Not sure if I would not go through the hassle to set up an actual automatic high idle as soon as you switch on the PTO for the hydraulics. But I might as well just underestimate the task on an epic scale. Regarding the Batteries, LiFePo Batteries would be what comes to my mind for such a task. Problem with lithium batteries, you need some with either an integrated charger, or you need a specific charger in front. You cannot simply swap a car batter with one of those. By the way, you cannot run those lithium batteries flat. lithium batteries in a car battery format allways are equipped with a BCM, a Battery controll module. They will simply cut out if they get under a certain voltage to prevent damage. I think I would go with AGM batteries. those you can use like normal car batteries, but they withstand deep cycling a lot better and provide a higher short term amperage . Newer vehicles with the engine start stop automatic to safe fuel are usually equipped with those. they are more expensive, but not as bad as lithium batteries. another, cheaper option might be gel batteries. Marine grade batteries usually are gel or AGM. They also have the advantage, they cannot spill any acidic liquid, compared to a regular lead battery. Those batteries in addition to the regular car battery will not allow the inverters to provide more power, but in case of load spikes, they sure will buffer a lot and can prevent the car rpm dropping if something starts up. And as an additional bonus, of course you have a lot more power if you have to short term run those inverters without the engine running, or if you jump start some vehicle or what not.
I’d make two lithium banks (6 cells per bank) with YinLong cells, one for under the hood to replace the starting battery and one in the rear. Since they have a higher resting and charging voltage, I wouldn’t use with a lead acid or agm.
The fuse addendum component does need on the downstream side. If on the upstream side it will not blow the fuse in overload. Just check to see when the fuse is pulled out which side has power. Then put the dogleg on the other side. If power on both sides in cruise control what good is the fuse.
Not 100% sure about any other brand but Ford trucks automatically hi idle when the ac kicks in, GMC Topkick I drove did the same, so adding in a separate high idle circuit seems redundant.
for home appliances i have 8x Powerpod 10kWh Smart Home Battery packs, but i also have a generator to recharge the batteries if there is no sun light on the solar cells or its night time if the mains power cuts off, worked good for last 3 years...
I’d recommend a better alternator if possible. Not sure what the factory amperage was back in 2007 but it probably wasn’t more than 150A. As you mentioned, heat and RPMs prevent full amperage. So, a cold alternator at 2800RPM is the only time you will hit the rated amperage. At idle it will be considerably less, hot idle will be less, and even hot at full throttle is less. In your case hot high idle won’t be great. I just put a Leece Neville large case alternator on my 2005 Ford diesel dually. Ford offered this as an option on ambulance package diesels, it makes 230A peak but will deliver 160A at hot idle. You do have to upgrade your alternator cabling. For about $500 it was worth it.
PowerBastards & JS Alternators make high output alternators for a lot of vehicles. I've never used them before, but I looked them up for a replacement alternator for my Maxima when I go to install my stereo. JS Alternators even offers different powder coatins & replacement high end wiring upgrades.
Anytime you have to take those connectors off of one of those, and take that mechanism apart that was so hard to deal with dry. Have some super lube with you, it's an excellent Dielectric grease and put a little bit of Super Lube on all of the connecting points. Even spread some around where it has to seal. And the heat from the engine bay will cause it to soften up enough to spread really well. So you don't need very much. It would be a great help the next time you have to take that apart. It doesn't hurt that the fact that you actually did that in preparing to take it apart again you might not ever have to take it apart again LOL
OMG Ray is tapping into the fuse box again I not saying anything I got the "don't tell me my job" sticker in the next video last time he wired into the fuse box ! LOL xx
Ray, longtime subscriber, and fan here. I just wanted to mention that it DOES MATTER which side of the fuse you tap into with that clever little adapter. An electrical fuse has a supply side and a load side. When a fault develops on the load side, the fuse link opens and isolates that part of the circuit from the electrical supply preventing further damage. If the adapter is connected to the supply side and not the load side, the fuse offers no downstream protection to the circuitry you installed. To find out which side of the fuse is power and which side is load check it with your multimeter - you can use a burned-out fuse to get easy access to the pins on the top side for testing. You have a 50/50 chance of having it right already. If luck wasn’t with you, the fix is relatively easy - just pull out the fuse and turn it over and reinsert it.
Slick addition to the DirtyMax👍 Like your idea of putting the inverters in the tool box. I would go with a manual marine battery selector switch instead of a solenoid, it leaves nothing to fail. I would also use outdoor receptacle covers to keep the corrosion demons out 👍
Yes a much better option over a 100A relay, that will both not be rated for full time operating, and also as they normally come with always being able to remove the key in the off position, it is easy to see when the key is in use, and also have a convenient way to disable the system when not in use. Though if you are putting in the deep cycle batteries a much better option is to get a dual charge controller, and leave them always in circuit and charging when the truck is running, so you will both never have them not get a charge, but also they cannot discharge through the truck itself if the main battery is flat for some reason. 150A dual charge controller, that attaches in the lead out of the alternator, and gives 2 heavy duty feeds, one per battery, will work much better, and less problems. Will still be a good idea to have a disconnect switch there though, inside the box, just in case, and also a 120A fuse in the battery lead for protection. Car audio can supply all these parts, just beware of the cheap ones with CCA wire leads.
Either of ya'll would be OK, but have you ever seen a meth head install stuff? They save you time & money...until your car catches on fire, 5 blocks down the road. 😂😂😮😢
There's a 50/50 chance he got it right with regards to the fuse. Not good enough for me but I've rushed things too on a Friday. But, changing out that switch without actually hooking up the one included in the kit to 12v and checking the voltage on the signal wire could have been a disaster. What if there was internal circuitry to output 3.3 or 5 volts to the PCM. That could have been an expensive mistake.
Ray I did have a pull cable hooked up to the dash to set the idle higher on my aerial boom truck. I did use it when the outriggers were deployed and I knew I was going to use the the lift to get me up in the air. It was a Wilkie lift that would extend 58'! Glad to see you getting ready for the hurricane season!
If you want longer power duration from a 12v battery I recommend LiFePO4 or Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries. They will allow full power down to, roughly, 10%of charge and still supply full voltage as lead acid only allows for the top 20% then they reduce voltage. It's something to consider for home power backup.
Yup. SLA is barely less expensive when you consider that SLA can only be discharged around 50%, and weighs 4-6 times as much. I got 400ah (2x200) for just over $1k and 120 lbs. Would take 500+lbs of marine Batts to give that type of capacity
I run a 97 Toyota Hilux Surf SSRX (in France), it had the 2 speed high idle fitted standard, it only works in park or neutral. I imported it used from Japan in 2005.
@@patrickvanden8322 Living in Florida as well, I'm somewhat surprised that some sort of stand by gens aren't standard on houses here, especially with the storms we can get here.
a small 1 cylinder 650cc 110V 8 kw diesel generator can safely power your house during a week long power outage. you don't need to run a 6 liter engine with a 7kw inverter on it, when the generator already provides you with the juice. And being a small engine, it would eat a fraction of the diesel your truck does.
Hey Ray I really enjoyed this video, I've always gotten a little confused working on wiring mods. You made it look so easy. Watching you made me smile when you asked Lauren what she thought of your modification it was priceless because I do the same thing. I understand why you chose to add the entire setup. I'll leave any critiquing to the rest of your audience and say thank you for sharing your skills and knowledge! Have a great day and stay cool 👍✌️
Hey Ray, this hurricane season is going to be a rough one as hurricanes are fueled by warm ocean water and the ocean is like a hot tub in areas. Be prepared and safe!!
The Ini I used to operate came with high idle. Was real nice in the winter to keep it from low temp shutdown, cruise on and hit the set and up she went
23:20 - Both sides have power only because the fuse is good. if the new unit pulls enough to blow the fuse then you won't have cruse control either. If you connect it to the battery side of the fuse it won't blow the fuse but you need to make sure the circuit you are putting in is fused.
Good idea to add those deep cycle batteries. Get a few hours of power if you run out of diesel and reduce the load on your main battery when running in outage mode. I appreciate the reuse of the existing button, and clearly the kit works so that’s cool. You keep up the good work, and stay safe. This year’s seasons have been kind of blurring together so I expect your hurricane season to be particularly wild.
I believe earlier on the PTO output on driver side of Allison was to power hydraulic pump for wrecker bed. But you might adapt a driveshaft to hydraulic pump to run a generator
Ohh, you have to check on the fuse where the buzbar is, if you get a short on the swichside, the magic smoke comes out if the red are connected on the buzbar side of the fuse. Its just to twist the fuse. If you realy need to get your truck as a backup generator with inverter/batteries, take a look on Mastervolt. We have done this on a Opel Movano, 24v external generator, 3 inverters 5KVA 230volts, 2 x 185amp batteries. So we have 3 phase 230v 16amp each. And the batteries can be charged when the truck are running, or from land power. Of cource this can be lowred down for your need. But I would do a offgrid generator if I was in your place.
I'd bet this comes from the factory in the ECM, but isn't used in this particular truck because it's also used in other vehicles with PTO. It's cool you made this video, so anyone with this truck/engine/ECM model can connect it with components it could have around, not needing the kit
Like others have said, it does matter which side of the fuse you tap. Also, consider LiFePO4 chemistry for your bulk storage battery. You actually get the full capacity unlike Lead-acid and you're looking at 4-5 thousand cycles so 5-10 times the life of Lead-acid at only ~60% higher price. Just don't charge below freezing.
You probably didn't notice but when you were testing the black wire from your switch at 14:19, the switch illuminated getting power from your volt meter. That showed that the black wire was for illuminating your switch. I would have used spade connectors on the wires coming off of the old switch and just unplug the wires from the new switch to plug in instead of cutting them since they were insulated. That would have made it possible to disconnect the switch if you had to remove that dash panel again.
What I noticed was, that on the switch already in the dash when testing, he connected the black probe to the powered side and the red probe to the ground, while on the other switch it seems he accidentially did it exactly the other way round. Which for just testing for continuity usually does not matter. Assuming both switches are lit by a LED, where D stands for Diode, that might well explain why he got the meter beeping in one direction, but not the other. Switching the probes might have switched over the results between the switches. Usually that continuity check has also a symbol on the meter for a diode test and the way measuring resistance works on those meters is that there is a small voltage with a very minimal current on one probe and the other measures the voltage comming in. That way you can calculate the resistance through the measured voltage drop. That voltage actually is enough to light up a LED. I absolutely agree on the connectors, my thought was as well, oh great, just crimp some matching spade connectors to the existing cable.
@@alexanderkupke920 I think the reason why he was getting a reading on the new switch is because it will be lit at all times when ignition is on, not just when it's flipped on. His old switch only lights when it's "on", which makes it harder to find at night.
@@kbernierlooking at the way he measured, I think it is an indicator light, only lit in the on position. I did not see it glow, which might be due to tthe wrong polarity of the probes as I explained, but to be honest, for that switch it might also be as we just did not see it at the right angle.
Ray. This is more than entertaining! And yes rather watch this than most cable shows. You should consider installing this on the flat bed, if it has cruse control.
Kinda sucks that you have to order a whole kit for your truck, when my '06 F350 Powerstroke it was literally just connecting one existing wire stub to an existing auxiliary 12V switched source. But you've gotta do what you've gotta do!
Hey Ray I am an RV repair tech and I thought I would give you some tips on how to achieve that battery inverter system. First I would use 4X 6V Golf Cart Deep cycle batteries Wired in 2S2P. they are taller so you can fit more battery in a smaller footprint and they have a very good seep cycle AH@20H rating unlike dual-purpose marine batters that are better suited for starting engines. second I would use a Battery isolation manager or BIM for short. they have more versatility than just a solenoid and will automatically charge whenever you have the engine running and you can have an override switch so you can start your truck with them in case you run down your truck battery. third I would use really beefy wire from the batteries to the inverter. like 4/0 AWG ( that's 4/OUGHT not 4AWG) if you truly have 7000W of inverter that is a draw of almost 650A at 12v DC, and like 2/0 from the alternator to the batterys depending on how much your alternator can output
I had a 1988 ford Ranger stick shift that had cruise. I bought it in 2017 I think, It still worked fine. I was surprised to see cruise controll on a manual transmission vehicle.
Ray, if you install a Premier Power Welder on your truck, it comes with built in power to run AC/DC, 120v motors and it has a throttle control built in as well. Plus, YOU CAN WELD STUFF! Oh, and it comes with the high output alternator to power it.
Hello Ray, watch your show every day. So, don't take this the wrong way. Pardon the rhyme. Just get a whole-house generator. I once did the hodge-podge of multiple sources and wiring setup to cover power outages. You may like the excitement and challenge of fighting against mother nature with your aging truck and wiring know-how but it all comes apart if you're not there. You're a young guy and you're invincible, yeah I get it. In the back of your mind, you should be realistic and aware that you may have everything planned out but some guy can overturn his truck and shut down a road (or something similar) to prevent you from getting your truck back home. Poor visibility can lead to accidents, whatever. My point is with all the things that you do to get ready power could be the easiest and you're making it the hardest. I live up north so I have to shovel snow (sometimes the roof) and keep wood ready for heat but the whole mess of wires and getting gas and water are moot now that I had the house generator installed. Consider it insurance that pays off instantly.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
It does matter which side of the fuse your tap is on. One side of the fuse will be connected to power all the time, the other side is "after" the fuse. If you put the tap on the side that is connected to power all the time, it is not fused (If the fuse blows, your kit will still have power). If you put it on the other side, the kit will be protected by the fuse.
@@weekendwarrior7080 Nope that's not at all the case. It's what Richard says above!To find out which side is the 'hot' one, you have to use a volt meter with the fuse unplugged. The hot side has +12 volts with the fuse unplugged. The 'down-stream' side of the fuse has 0 volts as measured to the chassis ground.
Correct Richardl4556, I see melted wires and possible fire if that wire shorts out somewhere.
The connection has to be on the load side of the fuse.
Will bet the fuse has an upstream protection as well, in this case it will just mean that you blow the upstream fuse rather than the 15A fuse, which will probably result in the engine stopping as multiple feeds to the ECU units will be broken by the blowing of the 60A engine ignition fuse. Or he will have to buy a multifuse module if it has one.
I noticed that as soon as Ray said it doesn't matter. The tap should be on the load side of the fuse, in order to protect the "kit" in case it gets an internal short ... you want the fuse to blow and protect the car.
I have a “high idle” mode installed on my couch - I press a button, the couch reclines and up go my legs into “high idle” mode! Lol. I use this to watch your videos Ray. 👍Dave Birmingham England
Ray, it does matter which side of the fuse you pull power from. One side is fused through the 10A cruise fuse. The other side is not fused. So if you use the unfused side, your wire to the switch will also not be fused. That is a hazard :-) Thanks for yet another great video :-)
yeah I fried a couple of cars like that😮😢😅
We had automatic high idle on our duramax ambulances. The active switch was disabled unless in park with the parking break set. The 6.7 powerstroke system did not require an extra kit and was all done by adding a switched resistor so we used a variable resistor to select the high idle speed based on our amp gauge. Just about every ambulance had an old fashioned amp bar to monitor charge/discharge because we had so many AC draws for medical equipment .
For your prep weather cruz som boondocking videos and see the new power thing people are adding to their trucks besides what you are doing BTW I love my battle born batteries so far no issues in years, discharge and charge as noted for us
You are most correct.... Ambulances draw huge amounts of electrical power.... the environmental systems on ambulances (heating and cooling systems) is huge.... then there is the high intensity cab lighting etc etc.... Ambulances were massively improved with LED lighting... It was not uncommon that the amperage draw on interior lighting alone was 20 amps... which today is now 2 with LED's then there is also the demand from inverters to run I.V. pumps etc etc... I always spec'd huge Leece Neville alternators and automatic idle controllers ...
Also called a parking brake…
Ray if your red connector is on the Live buz side of the fuse you will have no protection from a short circuit.
Exactly what I was thinking. One side of the fuse has 12V directly from the battery, so you are bypassing the fuse itself, and that could lead to fire when a short is happening. You should use the side that is not directly connected to the battery, so it is secured by the same fuse in case of a short.
Yes! And fuse tapping in general seams junk AF to me!
I came here to say this.
I started to make this comment as soon as I heard that the side doesn't matter. I then saw some someones beat me to the punch. For protected power, yes it does matter. That's the whole idea of having fuses. Don't wire you house that way.
I agree. It would "not matter" only if there was an inline fuse.
With all the improvements you've made on that truck, it's truly becoming the ultimate zombie apocalypse vehicle.
tbh it really start to be like that. Add some armour, shielding, weapon port and it's fucking zombie ready
They make Kevlar door and floor liners for this 😏
@@RainmanRaysRepairs looking forward to that video, Raymundo.
Either the zombie apocalypse or I-95 during rush hour! 🤣🤣🤣
@@RainmanRaysRepairs Zombie apocalypse nothing! More like rush hour on I-95... 🤣🤣🤣
23:10 It matters which side the electrical connector is on because on one side, there is a constant 12V, and on the other side, there will be 12V through the fuse. The wire should be connected to this side so that the circuit is protected by the fuse
0:50 - “We’ll fix that later.” That’s a common theme around my house; not just for cars but for home repairs too.
Rainman Ray's Repairs.. Cool upgrade to the truck for sure. The fuse tap should be on the load side of the fuse so if the fuse blows it will turn off the high idle system you installed otherwise you have no fuse protection. Not sure which side you installed the fuse tap on though. Just something to consider.
I didn’t realize that hurricane season cuts electricity for days. A friend of mine lived in in N Carolina. But their apartment had electricity within a day.
Here up north we have ice rains and heavy snowfalls that push the power lines to a breaking point. With no power we use candles for light, for warmth we have a fireplace, fridge stuf just put it in a snow. It ain’t that bad.
Hurricane Andrew.... this Ottawa kid was in Florida when Andrew hit. Palm trees were already a novelty to me. Seeing palm trees flying past our hotel window was scary. And then the power went out for a few days. We were lucky. I applaud you for planning ahead. Another great video.
yep, he needs to keep the engine at 1000 rpm for 3 days.
I wired the auxiliary batteries in my Suburban with a golf cart relay that connects them to the vehicle's electrical system only when the ignition is "ON". They are isolated at all other times. In this way, they charge when driving, but don't drag down the vehicle batteries when stopped, and I don't have to remember to switch them in and out.
Solid-state isolators work; but there is a 0.7 Volt drop across them, preventing the aux batteries from reaching full charge.
This reminds me of my days building ambulance's and rescue vehicles. They had a small electronic box mounted under the dash with a button to idle up the engine when they were at a call and needed power from the vehicle. The idler could only be engaged in park. At the time they replaced the stock alternators with heavy duty Leece Neville's for extra amps.
Morning ray! to answer your question, yes the LBZ was available in manual. I believe it came with the ZF6 6 speed. however everybody loved the Allison so much, there are very very few out in the wild. Also, 2007 was the last year a manual was offered with the duramax
What about in medium duty trucks? I think that went with several other tranny options for a few more years...
I thought the LMM in 2007.5 only was available with a manual....
Never mind the extra maintenance they demanded. GM required a flush of the clutch fluid annually.
I used to drive coaches and at refreshment stops we used to keep coach running to keep interior cool ( hot hot hot Northern Australia), coaches had Detroit 6v92ta ( 2 stroke) engines and we had high idle fitted as these engines were prone to glazing of cylinders.
Would you not be better off getting a diesel generator for home?
I agree, dump that petrol generator.
But would buying a diesel generator make as interesting a video?
Fuse tapping however seams junk AF! And it does matter which side you connect your circuit! Because if you use fuse leg before incoming power from battery even after fuse blows there still will be power in your connected circuit! Before installing fuse check panel with multimeter and tap side where there is no power after fuse is removed! This way your circuit also loose power after fuse goes out!
A diesel generator with an automatic tranfer switch installed could start at $15,000. This may just be a temporary use until he gets that to his budget‼️💯
Or, convert the small gas generator to dual fuel, use propane, my 6.5kw generator runs approx 4.5 hours on the size tank that propane grills use
Ray feels great knowing that his Christmas tree will be lit this year with lots of power from his high idle kit.
"Activate factory turbo brake"
Ray, I watch you "every" morning, you're like my morning coffee, keep up the great work.
I just watched your high idle video and I just know, you'll love this hack..
I personally performed this on my 06 LBZ 3500 dually chassis cab (Weld Rig) and it worked awesome and makes a big difference in slowing down heavy loads without the use of the brakes. My Weld Rig was 13,200lbs rolling weight. (as I now have a 2015 F-450 CC)
There wasn't as much (or many) articles about this mod when I did it back in 06. Essentially, if (when) you ground pin #53 (at the cpu) it activates the (factory) turbo brake and sends 12v to pin #11 (which I did not use). I modified a round, illuminated toggle switch with a 12v feed that completes (illuminates) when the the switch is "on" completing the circuit to ground, which provides the ground back to pin # 53, activating the turbo brake, which will only work when your are in tow/haul mode and approximately 1 - 2 seconds after you lift the throttle ..
Have fun with this one and keep up the great work..
Ray is definitely the kid playing with the light after realizing it has 3 brightness settings, love it.
Ray is correct about electricians leaving detritus when they are done. I worked IT data centers and any time electricians were part of the work, there was this one “clean up” guy who would come in just before they left and sweep up all the stuff left on the floor, bottom of racks/cabinets, or under the raised floor. I was told by management it was the most cost-effective use of resources (people) based on hourly rate.
My dad and father in law were both electricians. I asked why they just tossed stuff on the floor. They both answered the same; 'The cleanup guys need to eat, too'.
ray, as others said, please check if you have that tap line connected to the load side, not source side. if that small wire ever rubbed to the body, it could cause fire just because the current wasnt big enough to blow the main fuse. that's what i concerned the most, not you getting stranded because of blown main fuse.
another thing i would suggest is to upgrade the alternator to hairpin stator style alternator. they can dump more amperage at low speed and slightly more efficient compared to the old slot wound stator. not sure how many amps you're going to pull from the alternator but having bigger headroom is better for longevity. no need to go super big like 300A+, maybe you can get smaller ones like 200-250A
I love how Ray was all excited by the gizmo he installed and had to tell Wife Unit! She was truly impressed. I'm the same way with my wifey. I build something cool and she's the first person I want to tell. Good job Ray.
Hey Ray, the easiest way to get wires through the firewall is to use a DIY conduit. In this case, cut a length of 1/4 inch soft copper tubing. ream the inside and dress both inner and outer edges so they are not sharp. Push the tube through the rubber grommet of the firewall. Once through, insert the wire into the tube, pull it through, then remove the tube. If you can get all three wires into the tube at once, even better, otherwise, repeat procedure for each wire.
interesting kit. Love how the company figured out how to just send a signal directly to the engine computer to accomplish that.
Ray, I ALWAYS love wiring jobs. I did all my own wiring for the lighting on my Jeep TJ. Up to and including making the switch panel.
On your switch: If it had been me, I would have left the insulated female spade connectors in place, and added insulated male connectors to the switch. That would make it easier if you did need the change switch, and it would allow you to disconnect the switch when you have to remove the bezel in the future.
Hey Ray!
Save your money on the big deep cycle batteries and instead get a high output alternator. Like a 220 amp.
You can also get smaller pulleys on the alternator to give you better output at slow engine speeds.
The batteries would only provide you with power when the truck wasn’t running or for a peak demand of high power like starting motors like the fridge. On their own, they wouldn’t last very long. You would need to add quite a few batteries to make it through the night with a 2000w draw.
For reference, your alternator would need to output 165 amps to supply a 2000w @120v inverter. That would give you about 15 amps to the house.
BTW get a pure-sine wave output to run electronics like video editors.
what is a pure sine wave you must be European they like to use words like literally pure like it's like a tag I mean literally like., a pure thing😮😢😅😂 linguistics is a trip😅
@@slayer2-y8m hey! Thanks for the reply, but I’m not European, I just know what electrical interference can do to a TV or computer.
I guess I am old enough though, in that I tried to run DOS commands with generators that had dirty power. It was so bad the floppy drives sounded like plinko games!
Thicker gauge soldering wire works great for fishing wires through firewalls. Just stiff enough to poke through, but soft enough to bend around small obstacles. As an added benefit, it's easy to bend the end of the wire around the wire you're trying to fish and make a "basket" to carry it.
I started using marine grade connectors. It uses a special tool to crimp. The insulation is heat shrink. They are completely water proof.
Hey now! As an electrician , I find that exactly correct! We do throw the tape on the floor, then step on it, and it stays on the bottom of your boot for a couple days! L o l
Other side of fuse is protected and another is always hot.
You are right. It's not vice to connect power from before the fuse to the ecu
funny, I saw the switch mounting location you had and the hole size difference and printing an adapter was my initial thought.
I've always found wiring very confusing and time consuming, but you always manage to make it look very simple and easy
The wiring on those trucks is relatively simple. It's when you have to deal with cars that have multiple CAN networks and 20 modules talking to each other, when it becomes a PITA working on them.
One of the things about automotive wiring that gets me. I used to work as an electrician helper, and my dad was an electrician. So, I'm used to black being the hot wire and green, or bare copper, being the ground wire. In automotive wiring black is the ground wire. One of those things where just out of habit, I will connect the hot wire to the ground wire.
Only mistake is the side of the fuse ... everyone makes mistakes
@@jarack3256 Yeah haha, the first time i did a 110 outlet i was confused when i read that black was hot and WHITE was neutral.
I guess I’ll be driving down to Florida to have Ray install this on my truck
That is a cool feature. I was going to do the same to idle up when I used my winch except mechanically with a solenoid. I like that better. Well done.
Best 47:55 watching Walmart crimp connectors be crimped I’ve seen in a very long time! Thanks Ray!
GM’s choices for PCM locations will never cease to blow my mind. 05:46 What could ever go wrong with locating a huge wiring harness where road spray can reach it. It’s time for the GM engineers to stop puffing and start passing.
The location isn’t the issue. The issue is getting a new one because GM doesn’t make them anymore. Took me 3 months to find one for my truck.
They did offer a manual in the LB7, LLY, LBZ trucks. Discontinued with the LMM
Ray - whilst the truck mods are a good way of adding options for power supply during hurricane season you would do much better getting a small diesel generator that could run 24/7 and sufficient storage for a weeks supply of diesel - rotate the stored diesel thru the Silvery Rado to ensure you always have fresh diesel
Perhaps, but I already have gas generators, but I want 120v AC in the truck also. It serves multiple purposes for me. With fuel capacity at 120gal of diesel I don’t have to lug Jerry cans around.
That would come in handy up north here for -20 degrees warm up
You’ll need to positive ventilate that box because of battery vapors and cooling for the inverters.
My next truck will be F150 Powerboost with 7200kva hookup
depends on the batteries. if those are vented, yes absolutely. but some more modern batteries like AGM batteries or marine grade batteries (which I think often are AGM) usually are no longer vented.
As a mechanical engineer who became a Controls Engineer (meaning I got to learn a lot of electrical on the job) and had to do startups:
It is, in fact, rule that your waste goes on the floor.... even if it wasn't a rule.... that's just where it would go because it's too much pain in the ass to manage all the tiny bits of insulation you strip off, especially when they sometimes go flying when you don't want them to. Much easier and time efficient to clean them up when the job site gets cleaned at the end anyways. I believe this to be the origin of the rule.
You need to be on the fused side of that 10a,or better still get the piggyback style as that allows a separate fuse for the original usage and a separate one for the add on application.
The add a fuse things are my preferred choice for adding anything electrical.
@@buttsexandbananapeels I have gone that way as well. I miss the days when the fuse blocks had 'IGN' and 'ACC' terminals you could just plug into.
23:04 the power comes into the fuse on one side, travels across the part that burns out with more than a 10 amp load, then goes back down the other prong or leg into the panel connection and into the circuit. You can get power from both legs but you need to connect downstream of the fuse to utilize it.
Another extremely interesting operation. Such a change from watching AC getting recharged.
Ray, your maths had me worried with the ECM. Rows were/are 24 pins so the right hand ones were 24/48/72/96. I got a bit worried the way you were counting down the rows at first.
More of these please.
always in hurry.
@@forgetfulme1719 British saying. More haste less speed.
@@olivethrush7450 u let him work on a new Jag?
@@forgetfulme1719 I would if I could.
I’m glad you reused the button you already had installed, it’s a lot cleaner than the switch in the kit.
For the future project I suggest you use lithium iron phosphate batteries and a dc to dc charger (renogy makes one). The dc to dc keeps from burning out the alternator. The LiFePO4 batteries can be drained to zero and still charge, function and last much longer than deep cycle batteries.
Cost is a huge factor.
Could not agree more Ray. Your channel is significantly better than anything on cable. Not even close.
Ray. Obviously there have been comments 're fuse protection. If you have the connection on the constant live, pull the fuse and flip it around for instant protection. ps. Did I see one of your tops
water or oil out of alignment? You know it's good only when you have them straightened up. Nice installation as always.
I can verify that anything with electrical waste is thrown onto the floor or even inside the thing being repaired. Maintenance had to install a new motor in one of my machines at work about six months ago. The electrical waste was either on the floor or inside the machine.
Since you're a mechanic you should get one of those industrial generators you pull behind the truck. Get an old one you can fix. That would supply plenty of power.
If I recall weren't you considering installing a second alternator to improve the charging system when running it overnight?
Doesn't need a second one, just high output. You can get 250A alternators made for car audio.
I applaud your planning for hurricanes. I should do the same for earthquakes. I do one thing religiously, keep no less than a half tank of gas in my truck. I do have a 7500 watt generator, but need to get that connect box added to the house wiring. I've read here on RUclips how to do it. I am leery of electricity, mainly because of ignorance. But I do know it is an easy add, shouldn't be too expensive. Thanks again Ray for another entertaining video. Best of luck to you in this and future hurricane seasons.
I found it interesting that your Cruise Control is RPM based rather than speed. Also if you're going to batteries in the back of the truck I suggest using Lithium, much better power to weight density, plus it doesn't really matter if you run them flat.
It totally matters if you run them flat.
The only problem with lithium batts is they're very expensive. 3X, 4X the price of a standard battery.
Oh, and don't get them wet!
The cruise control itself is not RPM based, it is based on a set speed. The PCM modules on those trucks just have a feature to allow this high idle mode, where the high idle is controlled by the cruise control controls. Usually those trucks are equipped with such features, if they are converted into kind of utility trucks, or with snow plows or such attachements. I think you may even get them with a sort of PTO and hydraulic pump if you need. Switching on the PTO would then also engage the high idle mode.
That is what rays tow truck is missing, which is why he has to stick some piece of metal on the gas pedal, to get a high idle. Not sure if I would not go through the hassle to set up an actual automatic high idle as soon as you switch on the PTO for the hydraulics. But I might as well just underestimate the task on an epic scale.
Regarding the Batteries, LiFePo Batteries would be what comes to my mind for such a task. Problem with lithium batteries, you need some with either an integrated charger, or you need a specific charger in front. You cannot simply swap a car batter with one of those. By the way, you cannot run those lithium batteries flat. lithium batteries in a car battery format allways are equipped with a BCM, a Battery controll module. They will simply cut out if they get under a certain voltage to prevent damage.
I think I would go with AGM batteries. those you can use like normal car batteries, but they withstand deep cycling a lot better and provide a higher short term amperage . Newer vehicles with the engine start stop automatic to safe fuel are usually equipped with those. they are more expensive, but not as bad as lithium batteries. another, cheaper option might be gel batteries. Marine grade batteries usually are gel or AGM. They also have the advantage, they cannot spill any acidic liquid, compared to a regular lead battery.
Those batteries in addition to the regular car battery will not allow the inverters to provide more power, but in case of load spikes, they sure will buffer a lot and can prevent the car rpm dropping if something starts up. And as an additional bonus, of course you have a lot more power if you have to short term run those inverters without the engine running, or if you jump start some vehicle or what not.
Never run a lithium battery past it's minimum voltage, that is a great way to destroy a good battery.
I’d make two lithium banks (6 cells per bank) with YinLong cells, one for under the hood to replace the starting battery and one in the rear. Since they have a higher resting and charging voltage, I wouldn’t use with a lead acid or agm.
The fuse addendum component does need on the downstream side. If on the upstream side it will not blow the fuse in overload. Just check to see when the fuse is pulled out which side has power. Then put the dogleg on the other side. If power on both sides in cruise control what good is the fuse.
Ray, you can use the hi-idle for cooling the truck with the A/C in the summer also. I can't believe they didn't provide a fuse link for that.
Not 100% sure about any other brand but Ford trucks automatically hi idle when the ac kicks in, GMC Topkick I drove did the same, so adding in a separate high idle circuit seems redundant.
for home appliances i have 8x Powerpod 10kWh Smart Home Battery packs, but i also have a generator to recharge the batteries if there is no sun light on the solar cells or its night time if the mains power cuts off, worked good for last 3 years...
I’d recommend a better alternator if possible. Not sure what the factory amperage was back in 2007 but it probably wasn’t more than 150A. As you mentioned, heat and RPMs prevent full amperage. So, a cold alternator at 2800RPM is the only time you will hit the rated amperage. At idle it will be considerably less, hot idle will be less, and even hot at full throttle is less. In your case hot high idle won’t be great. I just put a Leece Neville large case alternator on my 2005 Ford diesel dually. Ford offered this as an option on ambulance package diesels, it makes 230A peak but will deliver 160A at hot idle. You do have to upgrade your alternator cabling. For about $500 it was worth it.
PowerBastards & JS Alternators make high output alternators for a lot of vehicles. I've never used them before, but I looked them up for a replacement alternator for my Maxima when I go to install my stereo. JS Alternators even offers different powder coatins & replacement high end wiring upgrades.
It's Still like watching cable TV !!! Rays cable TV.....😉🤣🤣
The Way To Go - Excellent
Good video As Always 47:04 @Rainman Ray's Repairs
Anytime you have to take those connectors off of one of those, and take that mechanism apart that was so hard to deal with dry. Have some super lube with you, it's an excellent Dielectric grease and put a little bit of Super Lube on all of the connecting points. Even spread some around where it has to seal. And the heat from the engine bay will cause it to soften up enough to spread really well. So you don't need very much. It would be a great help the next time you have to take that apart. It doesn't hurt that the fact that you actually did that in preparing to take it apart again you might not ever have to take it apart again LOL
OMG Ray is tapping into the fuse box again I not saying anything I got the "don't tell me my job" sticker in the next video last time he wired into the fuse box ! LOL xx
High idle improves oil pressure, idling for extended periods will wear the bearings . Can you fit one to your role back?
The Roll-back has the high-idle feature for the hydraulic system of the bed.
Ray, longtime subscriber, and fan here. I just wanted to mention that it DOES MATTER which side of the fuse you tap into with that clever little adapter. An electrical fuse has a supply side and a load side. When a fault develops on the load side, the fuse link opens and isolates that part of the circuit from the electrical supply preventing further damage. If the adapter is connected to the supply side and not the load side, the fuse offers no downstream protection to the circuitry you installed. To find out which side of the fuse is power and which side is load check it with your multimeter - you can use a burned-out fuse to get easy access to the pins on the top side for testing. You have a 50/50 chance of having it right already. If luck wasn’t with you, the fix is relatively easy - just pull out the fuse and turn it over and reinsert it.
Slick addition to the DirtyMax👍 Like your idea of putting the inverters in the tool box. I would go with a manual marine battery selector switch instead of a solenoid, it leaves nothing to fail. I would also use outdoor receptacle covers to keep the corrosion demons out 👍
Yes a much better option over a 100A relay, that will both not be rated for full time operating, and also as they normally come with always being able to remove the key in the off position, it is easy to see when the key is in use, and also have a convenient way to disable the system when not in use. Though if you are putting in the deep cycle batteries a much better option is to get a dual charge controller, and leave them always in circuit and charging when the truck is running, so you will both never have them not get a charge, but also they cannot discharge through the truck itself if the main battery is flat for some reason. 150A dual charge controller, that attaches in the lead out of the alternator, and gives 2 heavy duty feeds, one per battery, will work much better, and less problems. Will still be a good idea to have a disconnect switch there though, inside the box, just in case, and also a 120A fuse in the battery lead for protection. Car audio can supply all these parts, just beware of the cheap ones with CCA wire leads.
I liked it when Lauryn asked Ray if HE installed that new system? She sounds like my wife when I install a lightbulb.
Love the videos Ray can't wait to see the next one ❤
I learned something cool today - Thanks Ray.
I does matter which side of the fuse you use. The feeding side is not protected by the fuse I guess.
I agree...if fuse blows only 1 side is still energized, unless CHILTON'S lied to me years ago.
I really like these video's where you install new equipment on the truck. Stuff I wouldn't have the guts to do.
As a former aftermarket electronics installer it's quite painful watching real mechanics doing electrical 😂
As a former mechanic, I decided to leave aftermarket electronics installation to folks like you. It’s what you do every day and it’s an art!
@@larryberry2436I never was much of a mechanic, so it all worked out. Dealers use to send us cars all the time and we'd exchange services.
Either of ya'll would be OK, but have you ever seen a meth head install stuff? They save you time & money...until your car catches on fire, 5 blocks down the road. 😂😂😮😢
@@wboyd33 That's the tail light warranty program, as soon as they see your tail lights leave warranty over. 🤪
It's painful for a mechanic watch a electronic installer work
I love the DIRTYMAX upgrades!
There's a 50/50 chance he got it right with regards to the fuse. Not good enough for me but I've rushed things too on a Friday. But, changing out that switch without actually hooking up the one included in the kit to 12v and checking the voltage on the signal wire could have been a disaster. What if there was internal circuitry to output 3.3 or 5 volts to the PCM. That could have been an expensive mistake.
Ray I did have a pull cable hooked up to the dash to set the idle higher on my aerial boom truck. I did use it when the outriggers were deployed and I knew I was going to use the the lift to get me up in the air. It was a Wilkie lift that would extend 58'! Glad to see you getting ready for the hurricane season!
If you want longer power duration from a 12v battery I recommend LiFePO4 or Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries. They will allow full power down to, roughly, 10%of charge and still supply full voltage as lead acid only allows for the top 20% then they reduce voltage. It's something to consider for home power backup.
Yup. SLA is barely less expensive when you consider that SLA can only be discharged around 50%, and weighs 4-6 times as much. I got 400ah (2x200) for just over $1k and 120 lbs. Would take 500+lbs of marine Batts to give that type of capacity
Great work! The old button is the BEST....very elegant!
So glad you chose to use the existing switch. I was sweating that you weren’t going to think of that. Your existing switch looks much nicer 👏
I run a 97 Toyota Hilux Surf SSRX (in France), it had the 2 speed high idle fitted standard, it only works in park or neutral. I imported it used from Japan in 2005.
Why wouldn't you just get a bigger generator for your house?
The issue was he was afraid for running out of petrol for the generator. Better would to buy a (bigger) Diesel generator.
@@patrickvanden8322 Living in Florida as well, I'm somewhat surprised that some sort of stand by gens aren't standard on houses here, especially with the storms we can get here.
I used the red wire in the trailer harness to keep back battery charged with switch through fuse.
Would think the banks kit would be able to do high idle ?
a small 1 cylinder 650cc 110V 8 kw diesel generator can safely power your house during a week long power outage. you don't need to run a 6 liter engine with a 7kw inverter on it, when the generator already provides you with the juice. And being a small engine, it would eat a fraction of the diesel your truck does.
Hey Ray I really enjoyed this video, I've always gotten a little confused working on wiring mods. You made it look so easy.
Watching you made me smile when you asked Lauren what she thought of your modification it was priceless because I do the same thing. I understand why you chose to add the entire setup. I'll leave any critiquing to the rest of your audience and say thank you for sharing your skills and knowledge!
Have a great day and stay cool 👍✌️
My Generac 22 kw is fantastic. Runs on propane. We spent 2 weeks on it the last storm that hit Texas
Hey Ray, this hurricane season is going to be a rough one as hurricanes are fueled by warm ocean water and the ocean is like a hot tub in areas. Be prepared and safe!!
The Ini I used to operate came with high idle. Was real nice in the winter to keep it from low temp shutdown, cruise on and hit the set and up she went
23:20 - Both sides have power only because the fuse is good. if the new unit pulls enough to blow the fuse then you won't have cruse control either. If you connect it to the battery side of the fuse it won't blow the fuse but you need to make sure the circuit you are putting in is fused.
Good idea to add those deep cycle batteries. Get a few hours of power if you run out of diesel and reduce the load on your main battery when running in outage mode.
I appreciate the reuse of the existing button, and clearly the kit works so that’s cool.
You keep up the good work, and stay safe. This year’s seasons have been kind of blurring together so I expect your hurricane season to be particularly wild.
I believe earlier on the PTO output on driver side of Allison was to power hydraulic pump for wrecker bed. But you might adapt a driveshaft to hydraulic pump to run a generator
Ohh, you have to check on the fuse where the buzbar is, if you get a short on the swichside, the magic smoke comes out if the red are connected on the buzbar side of the fuse. Its just to twist the fuse.
If you realy need to get your truck as a backup generator with inverter/batteries, take a look on Mastervolt. We have done this on a Opel Movano, 24v external generator, 3 inverters 5KVA 230volts, 2 x 185amp batteries. So we have 3 phase 230v 16amp each. And the batteries can be charged when the truck are running, or from land power.
Of cource this can be lowred down for your need.
But I would do a offgrid generator if I was in your place.
I'd bet this comes from the factory in the ECM, but isn't used in this particular truck because it's also used in other vehicles with PTO. It's cool you made this video, so anyone with this truck/engine/ECM model can connect it with components it could have around, not needing the kit
Like others have said, it does matter which side of the fuse you tap. Also, consider LiFePO4 chemistry for your bulk storage battery. You actually get the full capacity unlike Lead-acid and you're looking at 4-5 thousand cycles so 5-10 times the life of Lead-acid at only ~60% higher price. Just don't charge below freezing.
You probably didn't notice but when you were testing the black wire from your switch at 14:19, the switch illuminated getting power from your volt meter. That showed that the black wire was for illuminating your switch. I would have used spade connectors on the wires coming off of the old switch and just unplug the wires from the new switch to plug in instead of cutting them since they were insulated. That would have made it possible to disconnect the switch if you had to remove that dash panel again.
What I noticed was, that on the switch already in the dash when testing, he connected the black probe to the powered side and the red probe to the ground, while on the other switch it seems he accidentially did it exactly the other way round. Which for just testing for continuity usually does not matter. Assuming both switches are lit by a LED, where D stands for Diode, that might well explain why he got the meter beeping in one direction, but not the other. Switching the probes might have switched over the results between the switches. Usually that continuity check has also a symbol on the meter for a diode test and the way measuring resistance works on those meters is that there is a small voltage with a very minimal current on one probe and the other measures the voltage comming in. That way you can calculate the resistance through the measured voltage drop. That voltage actually is enough to light up a LED.
I absolutely agree on the connectors, my thought was as well, oh great, just crimp some matching spade connectors to the existing cable.
@@alexanderkupke920 I think the reason why he was getting a reading on the new switch is because it will be lit at all times when ignition is on, not just when it's flipped on. His old switch only lights when it's "on", which makes it harder to find at night.
@@kbernierlooking at the way he measured, I think it is an indicator light, only lit in the on position. I did not see it glow, which might be due to tthe wrong polarity of the probes as I explained, but to be honest, for that switch it might also be as we just did not see it at the right angle.
Ray. This is more than entertaining! And yes rather watch this than most cable shows. You should consider installing this on the flat bed, if it has cruse control.
Kinda sucks that you have to order a whole kit for your truck, when my '06 F350 Powerstroke it was literally just connecting one existing wire stub to an existing auxiliary 12V switched source. But you've gotta do what you've gotta do!
Absolutely brilliant I enjoy watching all your videos and I think you really deserved your plaque award
Hey Ray I am an RV repair tech and I thought I would give you some tips on how to achieve that battery inverter system.
First I would use 4X 6V Golf Cart Deep cycle batteries Wired in 2S2P. they are taller so you can fit more battery in a smaller footprint and they have a very good seep cycle AH@20H rating unlike dual-purpose marine batters that are better suited for starting engines.
second I would use a Battery isolation manager or BIM for short. they have more versatility than just a solenoid and will automatically charge whenever you have the engine running and you can have an override switch so you can start your truck with them in case you run down your truck battery.
third I would use really beefy wire from the batteries to the inverter. like 4/0 AWG ( that's 4/OUGHT not 4AWG) if you truly have 7000W of inverter that is a draw of almost 650A at 12v DC, and like 2/0 from the alternator to the batterys depending on how much your alternator can output
I had a 1988 ford Ranger stick shift that had cruise. I bought it in 2017 I think, It still worked fine. I was surprised to see cruise controll on a manual transmission vehicle.
did anyone notice when ray tested the existing switch the light came on? where did it get power from to turn that light on? 14:24
Ray, if you install a Premier Power Welder on your truck, it comes with built in power to run AC/DC, 120v motors and it has a throttle control built in as well. Plus, YOU CAN WELD STUFF! Oh, and it comes with the high output alternator to power it.
Hello Ray, watch your show every day. So, don't take this the wrong way. Pardon the rhyme. Just get a whole-house generator. I once did the hodge-podge of multiple sources and wiring setup to cover power outages. You may like the excitement and challenge of fighting against mother nature with your aging truck and wiring know-how but it all comes apart if you're not there. You're a young guy and you're invincible, yeah I get it. In the back of your mind, you should be realistic and aware that you may have everything planned out but some guy can overturn his truck and shut down a road (or something similar) to prevent you from getting your truck back home. Poor visibility can lead to accidents, whatever. My point is with all the things that you do to get ready power could be the easiest and you're making it the hardest. I live up north so I have to shovel snow (sometimes the roof) and keep wood ready for heat but the whole mess of wires and getting gas and water are moot now that I had the house generator installed. Consider it insurance that pays off instantly.
That weather is like a short, sharp taste of a Northern Ontario!
I’m curious if there’s a PTO option on the truck ? Power a generator off the PTO ?