It amazes me to see how an owner can complain about a noise when the car/van/truck is being used as a portable recycling bin and/or garbage can and/or a junk bin. Ray, you need to post an epic video where you go on a rampage and start throwing all of the crap into your dumpster before thinking of going on a test drive.
I make sure to completely clean out my truck prior to going in for service/maintenance then drive with no radio on for a day so I can hear anything out of standard.
as a minnesotan it amazes me that these vehicles with 200k miles have far less corrosion than much newer cars up here. almost every difficulty i've had working on my truck has been from corroded/rusted nuts and bolts.
Yeah I hear you on rust had a 2004 van like that we had to deny service because rust was too bad to lift without smashing the lift points. South dakota here so we in same boat.
No explosives, no violence, and no nudity. Just a great tutorial on working on vehicles with common sense and ethics. It’ll never catch on. Great job Ray. You could put a few more exotic cars in the shop. Lamborghini and Lotus come to mind.
I was born in 1966 and I grew up through all the Disney stuff and whatever and that was the first time I've ever heard open says me. Wow first time and I'm 57, thanks I think Rainman.
I wonder when he sleeps - works late - drives maybe an hour or more home, dinner, house work stuff, kids, wife time.... then editing... when do you sleep Ray??????
Ok, seeing the actual bad CV joint while the vehicle is moving was awesome. I wish there were more videos exactly like that to show people what the noises are they may hear.
@@terrywilson1226 Very well could be. I have seen CV joints pulled apart by too much engine/transmission movement. To be fair, the front suspension of said vehicle also needed every bushing, so it was a combo of bad engine mounts and suspension bushings in the case of the pulled apart joint I saw.
People often don't change all of it due to budget constraints so we can't blame them so having said that, it will cost more in the future unless of course you wanna scrap the vehicle in the future if it breaks down.
One of my pet peeves is having soooooo much crap hanging from the rearview mirror. The last thing people need is more distractions while driving. I’m also a fan of preventative maintenance as it’s been my experience that noises cost more
I installed a oil pressure gauge on my '81 Chevy stepside I used to have but I added a brass manifold block so that I could keep the low oil light function as well as an oil pressure gauge.
Bad connections don't draw more current. It actually causes less current because there is more resistance in the entire circuit. Heat is generated wherever the resistance is higher per the formula Power(W)=Current(A)*Current(A)*Resistance(Ohms). This power is in the form of heat which causes the plastic to melt.
You are a good man for working on these crap-mobiles. Old cars aren’t necessarily the problem but when you drive a rolling trash can it says a lot about you. I would afraid the customer would try to stiff me after I put expensive parts into there car.
Good call on replacing the entire tail light assembly. Up north in the rust belt we call those oil leaks the factory installed undercoating option !! Thanks for all your videos Ray.
I'm pretty sure florida is an honorary member of the rust belt lol. Surrounded by ocean, and humidity through the roof. I suspect they're no stranger to rust.
Howdy Ray! Hope you have a kickass day today brother! God definitely loves you man cause you were blessed with great knowledge, a growing business and a loving family. Keep on keeping on!
As for the taillight, the bulb sockets can get overheated if you got stuck in stop and barely go traffic or tend to drive with a foot on the brake pedal and pressing just enough to cause the brake lights to stay on. Also, if the bumper on the brake pedal switch is deteriorated, then you could have suffered not only a dead battery but a melted bulb socket on both sides. Always use dielectric grease on your bulb sockets.
The wire is not thick enough from the start. So the plastic melted short circuit, need a whole assembly. It's still better than the newer ones when the alternator shorts the module.
I totally agree with @aoksys31, in all automotive applications always apply dielectric grease to all plug/jacks, lamp sockets and ground lugs. Especially in the salt belt. If you unplug it grease it!
The actual problem with the break light going bad is not actually the connections. But the heat of the light bulbs. Therefore causing the housing of the light to melt that way. The only fix I found that works is LEDs bulb replacement. Due to LED bulbs do not get hot. Now if you use LEDs replacements. You need to trick the computer (ECM). Because of hyper flash with turn signals. You have two options for the trick. Some vehicles you can trick the computer turn signal flasher, to a new electronic LED flasher. (Not all Vehicles could use this option). The second option you can do. Is to use load resistors behind the light bulbs. If the break light is separated from the turn signal. You may not need a load resistor or a LED flasher. If you're just replacing the brake light to LED. But in a lot of cases you will need to add a load resistor for a older vehicle just for the brake light. If you want to use LED bulbs. I could suggest the projector LED bulb replacement. They are known to be the brightest and you could find them online. They will not be down in the local stores.
I noticed that some lady slippers/heel bars would really help with several jobs you've done. I used mine when replacing struts and they really come in handy for aligning holes and holding things in place.
I don't wanna be 'that guy' but I feel it's worth mentioning, just for info sake ... in your bonus material with the rear light unit. You said the melting action was because of a bad connection and a bad connection will draw extra current. But this can't be true because of ohm's law. A bad connection creates extra undue resistance to the circuit, increasing the over-all resistance of the circuit will reduce the amps drawn, not increase. A resistive(bad) connection -will- generate heat though and arcing etc that leads to the melting action you pointed out. Enjoying the vids as usual Ray keep working on your own unit there I'm glad to see you and yours do well.
Ray, as an electrical guy, I have to make one correction; you stated that "bad connections are going to draw extra current". That is incorrect. A bad connection (generally due to corrosion) creates a high resistance joint. What occurs is that the added resistance actually generates heat due to the voltage drop across it (Ohm's law states that voltage = current * resistance). The power dissipated (Power = the square of the voltage divided by the resistance) produces the heat that causes the melting to occur. You were correct about the arcing, however as that can happen as well. I like to use dielectric grease as a preventative against said corrosion. Anyway, I truly enjoy your channel and watch it almost every day, or at least when you put up new videos. You have taught me a lot about vehicle repair, and I heartily thank you for that. Keep up the good, honest work.
Dude, I flipping love your thoroughness and attention to detail. Been repairing household appliances since the early eighties, and you are an A1 mechanic. Keep up the good work. Great content!
One of the best purchases i made for my vehicle was a set of solid alloy lug nuts for all 4 tires. No more of that bimetal/chrome capped steel. I do not want swollen nuts. and for those who dont know, what happens is a process called dissimilar metal corrosion. Which means when 2 metals touch, their electrons want to balance out, so they pass electrons back and fourth trying to balance, and this causes corrosion, and this causes the chrome camps to swell as corrosion builds up between the Chrome Cap and the Steel Lug. it's a pain in the ass when it happens and can cause sockets to get stuck a lot with the lug wrench if you're on the side of the road. Long ago I was told it saves auto makers like $20 per car to do the chrome capped steel (dont know if this is true or just an old wives tale). I'd pay the 20 bucks over the life of the car note to NOT have to t deal with swollen nuts.
Air tools being used on those Chrome cap lug nuts are really hard on the older ones. Yes that type of corrosion does them in . Good idea going to solid caps. Been there and experienced that.
Most of our Foods through the years had rusty lug nuts. The last time we did tires in my wife's Fusion, I bought a complete set of Dorman nuts and Walmart graciously installed them, as they didn't carry that size in the store. I had Fords in the 70' and 80's with the styled-steel wheels and those always corroded.
I owned a’75 Doge maxi van for 8 years , sold it to my buddy and he drove it for another 7 years . The motor ( 360 ci) was great , he did replace the transmission ( 747 torque flight ) , if the body had not decided to just rust away - we live in Missouri , so snow/ salt takes its tool he might of kept it . The kid he sold it to did some repair to the body and still had it 3 years later till we lost track of him . The running gear held up as far as I know , so had to hand it to the Chrysler engineers .
I had a 2002 just like this van. I never had to replace the CV axles, but fixed oil leaks, replaced water pump, motor mounts, fuel pump twice and then some. I was so happy to get rid of that van.
One thing we do not seem to do so much here is complete replacement unless necessary. In most cases with cv joints, the joint is replaced, not the whole axle assembly, Obviously if the spline is loose fitting or damaged, then replacement is required, but it seems this is rarely the case. As to the Rear light module... why do they make them like that.. most I see here (not US made vehicles) have connectors to each bulb, so unless the modue is actually broken it does not need replacement... All those ones do is save on one connector, and add a huge amount to the repair bill. That said, you are still so good at your job, pity some of our guys here are not more like you...
The last shaft I got from O’Reilly’s almost gave me the shaft. Took it back and procured a much better one from NAPA. I got all giddy when you used the seal driver.
From The Book Of Wap-Wap Everything is a hammer so therefore anything is a seal driver. A seal driver is just a fancy hammer that is shaped like a seal driver
I know exactly why you like to put the lugs without caps across from each other, its more efficient when removing the tire, you only need to change the socket once.
I usually apply a thin coating of RTV to the outer diameter of seals. This functions as a lubricant to ease installation; and the sealant will fill any scratches and/or gouges in the bore, preventing possible leaks. Further, it does not make future removal any more difficult. Win-win-win!
Some people like the ASMR aspect of mechanical work. Much like me, I can listen to someone typing all day long for some reason. So clicks, grinding machine tools hammering can fascinate some people.
I did a front axle R&R on my daughter's 1998 Pathfinder, which had a torn boot. No split boots are/were available, so I also got a complete axle from O'Reilly, and pretty straightforward. Was my only axle replacement job. No rust of any kind on that - Arizona!!!
Great video as always. I know you probably heard me yelling when the bottom bolt was slotted on the strut... ask me how i know. I hate those minivans since I had two of them and maintained each for 10 years a piece. I resorted to a bubble alignment tool before I started and reset to the same measurement after
Yah!! Finaly a Dodge grand caravan. I have a 03 and 17 and 18. They are great vehicles for 6 years once a month I would drive home 614 miles from Odessa TX to Brownsville TX in the 03. I was working there due to no decent work in Brownsville. In the 6 years I only replaced brakes, coil pack plugs and wires hoses and belt . Of course oil changes.
@21:38 Spread a thin film of that same grease onto the axle's lock ring. It will slip soundly into place and seated without undo effort... no hammering force needed.
Another great video Ray!! I had no idea about the newer tail lights as to their construction and such. I do hope the owner opted to replace those remnants of motor mounts...that could also be a source of clunking noises. As for that axle...a nice easy fix is always great to see.
That thing is leaking oil big time, everywhere. I guess you can't complain too much with all that mileage. It sounds like it runs pretty good, so it may be worth fixing a little at a time or like a car I had when I was a kid, you didn't have to change the oil, it was constantly being changed, just change the filter every now and then. LOL Great job on the axle, it went pretty smooth, the light too. Good video
Yup, those Dodge acorn nuts separate from their stainless shell. I have a 2005 3.8 Grand Caravan SXT and my solution was that I bought a whole box of the nuts (short $) from a local junkyard. As soon as they start separating, I replace them.
I had a 07 that did the same thing with the tail light. Went to the junkyard and bought one for $10. Easiest tail lights ever to replace. I now have and 07 accord and I replaced the taillights in it I had to drop the bumper just to find the bracket to be rusted out. You can have anything simple anymore it seems .
Your expression " Everything is a Hammer" is one of my pet hates, had a young trainee using my Bedford Vernadium 3/4 AF and hitting a tie rod with it, 😢 he got a bollocking a Spanner is a Spanner 🔧 a Hammer is a Hammer 🔨. Misused tools are usually why people get hurt.
Another great video with some awesome camera work. Really nice shot of the moving CV axle. Waiting for your upload to post is a little like waiting for Christmas morning, you don't know what you're going to get and you hope it will be something really good. Thanks again for another great video, now my day is complete.
Bringing back memories- uni student had an old 300k 1980s Japanese car with way worse CV's- they clunked. Bottom of car exactly like this one. LH outer CV seized on freeway. Took a 1km to slow slow down through the gears without brakes (this car was way before ABS- but brakes were total sht anyway). Waited. Amazingly- came it unstuck- slowly drove to nearest exit- lucky day- a CV and Diff place was within 400m of freeway, cool old dude swapped out old axles for new ones $150- he kept the old axles. Car drove sweet as a nut. Best money I ever spent. Japanese cars are amazing. If you can feel the clunks through the steering wheel- don't drive it- very very dangerous.
I just finished out a complete swap of suspension and steering on my PT. Unfortunately, the new steeringing gear sprung a seal leak and I had to replace it again. It went to the alignment shop today Prior to sending it, I did various checks and got the alignment in the ball park, but using my inexpensive camber checking tool, I found the camber way out, further than it could be adjusted. I bout the camber adjustment bolts for it and sent them with the car to be aligned. It's a good thing that I did. They had to use it to get it aligned properly. Cost me a bit more in labor, since they installed them. I could have, but wasn't so sure I needed them. The camber bolts are built oblong and replace one of the strut bolts and because of their shape, they allow for the camber adjustment. Sure glad I knew this before it went in and part of all this is from watching various videos of Ray's in the first place.
490k on my original 3.8. We use them as oversize escort vehicles. The vehicle overall likes to leak oil and consume cv axles and alternators. Also a transmission about every 100k.
Ray, I am always impressed with your diagnostic skills. Great job as always! Don’t forget to torque the lug nuts. You probably did that off camera, but thought I’d mention it just in case.
Great video Ray, as usual. Yes, those tail lights are easy to change, but you have to open the hatch. Immediately before my buddy's bulb burned out, someone backed into his and it would not open!!! Not manually or powered. He got pulled over several times before he could get the hatch open.
Ray was down your way in May(I am Canadian) felt better knowing wasnt far away from your shop in my 333000 mi. 2013 jeep compass 4x4 waved at your shop on way to Red Barn keep doing what you do
Hey ray i hate dealing with these seals as well and the best tool I've found for them is a lot of patience lube and a rolling head pry bar they have the same concept I'm not sure if mine is worn all round but it's the best thing I got
All you have to do is look at the Mardi-Gras parade up front and the yard sale going on in the rear. That should tell you all you need to know, just put gas in it and go. That's probably the first time it's being on a ramp in 200,000 miles. You have three kinds of owners, aware, oblivious or don't care. I think this owner is aware but don't care
I just changed a control arm on my Kia and to get the ball joint loose, I employed the upside down castle nut and hammer method. It forced the castle nut down, spreading the castles and becoming one with the thread. Crap! I got two new ball joints and will change them with the control arms.
The gasket for the oil filter flange was another really common oil leakage source on the 3.3 and 3.8L engines in the Caravan and T&C. There was a warranty campaign on it way back when, and the fix was a different flange with a formed rubber seal. I see very few of those.
I just changed the gasket on our 2007 with 3.8 the gasket was hard as a rock I ended up ordering both seals one was the rubber o ring type and the other paper gasket hasn't leaked sence new gasket didn't see an update housing
Ray i did wonder why you not just replaced the CV joint at the wheel end or it only comes as a all in one unit. Inserting the inner joint always have the gap at the bottom as less chance of it getting nipped. Nice job. I was going to say you did not top up the oil , Troy will fix it . Ok.
it usually comes as an assembly as CV's need to be pressed on. To remove a CV is destructive without some soft hammers and drifts. It's much easier job to replace the assembly. I think it probably works out cheaper too.
@@markiobook8639 I have replaced 100s of cvs over many decades , some had an internal circlip needing a sharp quick blow to release it . Others needed an expanding circlip pliers to release it out of the groove. Jap cars we have found are a bugger to remove and might have to be cut off. Our elderly customers could afford a new joint under a 100 Euro as a complete Half shaft might have been 180+. Hyundai Santa Fe had an issue with ABS rings splitting due to rust on CV . One had to buy a new Half shaft or 2 when sensors had errors. Never seen one that had to be pressed on in 40 years.. I do agree at times it can work out cheaper but sometimes stock is main dealer only.
I Paint mark the strut bolt heads to the strut shoe every time I have to remove them just in case they are a cammed bolt. What i own have cammed bolts. Witness marks also are marked. Have never had to have an alinement done so far. Regarding the oil light. I just had it coming on and off, 12 Tranist Connect, but did not stay on. It presented with, dead gas pedal, stalling when stopped and slow to no shifting without pumping the gas pedal. Being a deliver van I thought it was done. Thanks to youtube and $20, I changed the oil pressure sensor and reset all, or any codes and no more problems.
The 3.8 waa a powerful v6. I use to drag race my 2005 minivan 3.8 I shocked many . There's a transmission trick also, but heh my secret I once raced a Ford lightening,. All he could do is barely get a half fender on me Took on a few mustangs and they also couldn't get more than a half fender on me. I blew several cv axels drag racing. Always had a extra . I limped home a few times 3.8 at one point got detuned..they were a damn good engine
Ahhh The Old Dodge Caravan, a staple of many mechanics bread and butter. Amazing more people aren't stranded with flats they can't change due to lug nut mayhem.
I appreciate the detail that you go into, as the high value part of these videos is that we learn the highs and lows of doing each task. One question and not specifically about this Dodge, when you see a vehicle that has numerous faults does it frustrate or wear you down as it all could have been avoided with regular service ? Now you are the bunny who has to advise the customer of all the problems. An unnecessary stress.
Flashback for the older people. That noise is not unlike a playing card attached to a bike by a peg flicking against the Spokes
The playing-card on the spokes sounds better. 😉
It amazes me to see how an owner can complain about a noise when the car/van/truck is being used as a portable recycling bin and/or garbage can and/or a junk bin.
Ray, you need to post an epic video where you go on a rampage and start throwing all of the crap into your dumpster before thinking of going on a test drive.
On some, a Hazmat Disposal Fee may have to be added to the bill.
I love the "actual click" scenes. It is like your catchphrase at this point in my opinion.
Get rid of all that crap on the rear view mirror and most of the noise will disappear. Great video! 👍🏻
A womans car. Those rims and all the crap inside.
@@tobbex7372 familiewagen for multi-kinder
I make sure to completely clean out my truck prior to going in for service/maintenance then drive with no radio on for a day so I can hear anything out of standard.
@@TheCorpsehatch I'm chasing a grunt sound in my car, I wish I can find it, it's driving me nuts.
as a minnesotan it amazes me that these vehicles with 200k miles have far less corrosion than much newer cars up here. almost every difficulty i've had working on my truck has been from corroded/rusted nuts and bolts.
Another Minnesotan here.
Yep, our salty roads does take it's toll on our vehicles!
Do you watch SMA? NEW YORK salt is 4 times as bad in my opinion!
@@dans_Learning_Curve i don't watch SMA but i'll have to check them out. maybe that new york salt will make me feel better
Yeah I hear you on rust had a 2004 van like that we had to deny service because rust was too bad to lift without smashing the lift points. South dakota here so we in same boat.
I have a rust free Town and Country bought new in 2003. Easy to work on and parts are cheap. Mine has 200,000 and runs like a watch.
2006 vehicles here in the desert southwest. Zero rust, pulled a steering rack back in July and not a stuck nut/bolt in sight.
No explosives, no violence, and no nudity. Just a great tutorial on working on vehicles with common sense and ethics. It’ll never catch on. Great job Ray. You could put a few more exotic cars in the shop. Lamborghini and Lotus come to mind.
I was born in 1966 and I grew up through all the Disney stuff and whatever and that was the first time I've ever heard open says me. Wow first time and I'm 57, thanks I think Rainman.
Don't ever lose the "Here WAS our brake rotor" as part of the intro 🤣
I wonder if your fans have any idea of how mucch editing is required by you to present these epic detailed videos.
Thank you Ray.
-SALUTE-
I wonder when he sleeps - works late - drives maybe an hour or more home, dinner, house work stuff, kids, wife time.... then editing... when do you sleep Ray??????
I know even on my tiny channel it takes about 25-30 hours a week to edit 5 videos to release. Thanks for noticing what many creators do!
@@JimmyMakingitwork it is hard work.
Im guessing wife unit does the edits. They seem to be such a loving family all working together.
21:38 I hope that o ring didn’t fall out inside of the transmission cone!
Ok, seeing the actual bad CV joint while the vehicle is moving was awesome. I wish there were more videos exactly like that to show people what the noises are they may hear.
Was that a oil pressure gauge on the knee bolster or the right
I wonder if the broken engine mounts are the orginal cause of flogged out axle?
@@terrywilson1226 Very well could be. I have seen CV joints pulled apart by too much engine/transmission movement. To be fair, the front suspension of said vehicle also needed every bushing, so it was a combo of bad engine mounts and suspension bushings in the case of the pulled apart joint I saw.
People often don't change all of it due to budget constraints so we can't blame them so having said that, it will cost more in the future unless of course you wanna scrap the vehicle in the future if it breaks down.
@Ray, I'd keep the seal puller and just round off the chisel point of that thing, so it won't dig into the seal seat...
Your comment is right on-point. 😄
One of my pet peeves is having soooooo much crap hanging from the rearview mirror. The last thing people need is more distractions while driving. I’m also a fan of preventative maintenance as it’s been my experience that noises cost more
The whole thing is a mobile garbage tip !
I wouldn’t get in it without coveralls on that’s for sure.
No matter what kind of crappy mood I might be in Ray always cheers me up. Every time!😁😁
Strange noises from your car is why the radio has a volume control.
I installed a oil pressure gauge on my '81 Chevy stepside I used to have but I added a brass manifold block so that I could keep the low oil light function as well as an oil pressure gauge.
Bad connections don't draw more current. It actually causes less current because there is more resistance in the entire circuit. Heat is generated wherever the resistance is higher per the formula Power(W)=Current(A)*Current(A)*Resistance(Ohms). This power is in the form of heat which causes the plastic to melt.
You are a good man for working on these crap-mobiles. Old cars aren’t necessarily the problem but when you drive a rolling trash can it says a lot about you. I would afraid the customer would try to stiff me after I put expensive parts into there car.
Good call on replacing the entire tail light assembly. Up north in the rust belt we call those oil leaks the factory installed undercoating option !! Thanks for all your videos Ray.
I'm pretty sure florida is an honorary member of the rust belt lol. Surrounded by ocean, and humidity through the roof. I suspect they're no stranger to rust.
@thebob1441 they're not driving through salt sludge several months of the year.
Howdy Ray! Hope you have a kickass day today brother! God definitely loves you man cause you were blessed with great knowledge, a growing business and a loving family. Keep on keeping on!
That was torn 'glove at first sight'😢
Wether you believe it or not GOD loves everybody the same!
Also, because he was chosen.
As for the taillight, the bulb sockets can get overheated if you got stuck in stop and barely go traffic or tend to drive with a foot on the brake pedal and pressing just enough to cause the brake lights to stay on. Also, if the bumper on the brake pedal switch is deteriorated, then you could have suffered not only a dead battery but a melted bulb socket on both sides. Always use dielectric grease on your bulb sockets.
he always says, 'I don't think it is needed'.
The wire is not thick enough from the start. So the plastic melted short circuit, need a whole assembly. It's still better than the newer ones when the alternator shorts the module.
I totally agree with @aoksys31, in all automotive applications always apply dielectric grease to all plug/jacks, lamp sockets and ground lugs. Especially in the salt belt. If you unplug it grease it!
OK. will use BG grease from now on.
The actual problem with the break light going bad is not actually the connections. But the heat of the light bulbs. Therefore causing the housing of the light to melt that way.
The only fix I found that works is LEDs bulb replacement. Due to LED bulbs do not get hot.
Now if you use LEDs replacements. You need to trick the computer (ECM). Because of hyper flash with turn signals.
You have two options for the trick. Some vehicles you can trick the computer turn signal flasher, to a new electronic LED flasher. (Not all Vehicles could use this option).
The second option you can do. Is to use load resistors behind the light bulbs.
If the break light is separated from the turn signal. You may not need a load resistor or a LED flasher. If you're just replacing the brake light to LED. But in a lot of cases you will need to add a load resistor for a older vehicle just for the brake light.
If you want to use LED bulbs. I could suggest the projector LED bulb replacement. They are known to be the brightest and you could find them online. They will not be down in the local stores.
I noticed that some lady slippers/heel bars would really help with several jobs you've done. I used mine when replacing struts and they really come in handy for aligning holes and holding things in place.
I don't wanna be 'that guy' but I feel it's worth mentioning, just for info sake ... in your bonus material with the rear light unit. You said the melting action was because of a bad connection and a bad connection will draw extra current. But this can't be true because of ohm's law. A bad connection creates extra undue resistance to the circuit, increasing the over-all resistance of the circuit will reduce the amps drawn, not increase. A resistive(bad) connection -will- generate heat though and arcing etc that leads to the melting action you pointed out. Enjoying the vids as usual Ray keep working on your own unit there I'm glad to see you and yours do well.
Clean walls look very nice. It is just like adding seasoniing to a steak, not necessary but makes it very good.
Ray, as an electrical guy, I have to make one correction; you stated that "bad connections are going to draw extra current". That is incorrect. A bad connection (generally due to corrosion) creates a high resistance joint. What occurs is that the added resistance actually generates heat due to the voltage drop across it (Ohm's law states that voltage = current * resistance). The power dissipated (Power = the square of the voltage divided by the resistance) produces the heat that causes the melting to occur. You were correct about the arcing, however as that can happen as well. I like to use dielectric grease as a preventative against said corrosion. Anyway, I truly enjoy your channel and watch it almost every day, or at least when you put up new videos. You have taught me a lot about vehicle repair, and I heartily thank you for that. Keep up the good, honest work.
When I was young n dumb, I drove a bad CV Joint until it snapped... Changing out the axle on the side of the road was a learning experience
Dude, I flipping love your thoroughness and attention to detail. Been repairing household appliances since the early eighties, and you are an A1 mechanic. Keep up the good work. Great content!
He's young but old school mechanic- putting the crown nut on for the knuckle- old shool. Striking the knuckle- even older. And this is from a Brit.
@markiobook8639 He's a little quirky too.....that helps to keep it fresh. Everyone has a little shade tree mechanic in them.
One of the best purchases i made for my vehicle was a set of solid alloy lug nuts for all 4 tires. No more of that bimetal/chrome capped steel. I do not want swollen nuts. and for those who dont know, what happens is a process called dissimilar metal corrosion. Which means when 2 metals touch, their electrons want to balance out, so they pass electrons back and fourth trying to balance, and this causes corrosion, and this causes the chrome camps to swell as corrosion builds up between the Chrome Cap and the Steel Lug. it's a pain in the ass when it happens and can cause sockets to get stuck a lot with the lug wrench if you're on the side of the road. Long ago I was told it saves auto makers like $20 per car to do the chrome capped steel (dont know if this is true or just an old wives tale). I'd pay the 20 bucks over the life of the car note to NOT have to t deal with swollen nuts.
Air tools being used on those Chrome cap lug nuts are really hard on the older ones. Yes that type of corrosion does them in . Good idea going to solid caps. Been there and experienced that.
Most of our Foods through the years had rusty lug nuts. The last time we did tires in my wife's Fusion, I bought a complete set of Dorman nuts and Walmart graciously installed them, as they didn't carry that size in the store. I had Fords in the 70' and 80's with the styled-steel wheels and those always corroded.
swollen nuts are the worst.
@@markiobook8639 (*Inner 12-Year-Old smirks and approves*) 😆
I owned a’75 Doge maxi van for 8 years , sold it to my buddy and he drove it for another 7 years . The motor ( 360 ci) was great , he did replace the transmission ( 747 torque flight ) , if the body had not decided to just rust away - we live in Missouri , so snow/ salt takes its tool he might of kept it . The kid he sold it to did some repair to the body and still had it 3 years later till we lost track of him . The running gear held up as far as I know , so had to hand it to the Chrysler engineers .
I had a 2002 just like this van. I never had to replace the CV axles, but fixed oil leaks, replaced water pump, motor mounts, fuel pump twice and then some. I was so happy to get rid of that van.
yeah it's shitful job.
Good to see you're wearing protective gloves.
One thing we do not seem to do so much here is complete replacement unless necessary. In most cases with cv joints, the joint is replaced, not the whole axle assembly, Obviously if the spline is loose fitting or damaged, then replacement is required, but it seems this is rarely the case.
As to the Rear light module... why do they make them like that.. most I see here (not US made vehicles) have connectors to each bulb, so unless the modue is actually broken it does not need replacement... All those ones do is save on one connector, and add a huge amount to the repair bill.
That said, you are still so good at your job, pity some of our guys here are not more like you...
We have a 05 town and country 3.3 thats been a great van and has 202 ,000 currently and running smooth.
The last shaft I got from O’Reilly’s almost gave me the shaft. Took it back and procured a much better one from NAPA. I got all giddy when you used the seal driver.
From The Book Of Wap-Wap
Everything is a hammer so therefore anything is a seal driver. A seal driver is just a fancy hammer that is shaped like a seal driver
Oreillys parts are the worst
Good video Ray as always 35:32 @Rainman Ray's Repairs
I know exactly why you like to put the lugs without caps across from each other, its more efficient when removing the tire, you only need to change the socket once.
I usually apply a thin coating of RTV to the outer diameter of seals. This functions as a lubricant to ease installation; and the sealant will fill any scratches and/or gouges in the bore, preventing possible leaks. Further, it does not make future removal any more difficult.
Win-win-win!
Some people like the ASMR aspect of mechanical work. Much like me, I can listen to someone typing all day long for some reason. So clicks, grinding machine tools hammering can fascinate some people.
That undercard shot was great.
Undercard = boxing match. 😂
looks to have the self lubricating chassis modification also
I did a front axle R&R on my daughter's 1998 Pathfinder, which had a torn boot. No split boots are/were available, so I also got a complete axle from O'Reilly, and pretty straightforward. Was my only axle replacement job. No rust of any kind on that - Arizona!!!
Outstanding, after viewing your last, I realized the noise I was hearing was from the axle. I went and bought one and had it put on.
Amazingly, I have a 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan that needs to have it's right CV axel replaced. Thanks for showing me almost all of what I need to do.
I didn't know my father moved to Florida. His the only person I know that when something breaks in his car he will ignore it.
I could be a long lost uncle, I might have married his sister
Self-healing car parts.
ones with brains moving out.
Im guilty too- especially when skint broke.
save $ from fish & chips to fix car first.
OMG! Ray has hair!
I don't think I've ever seen him without a doorag/bandana or a basecap on! 🤣🤣🤣
Good work, Ray! 👍👍👍
Great video as always. I know you probably heard me yelling when the bottom bolt was slotted on the strut... ask me how i know. I hate those minivans since I had two of them and maintained each for 10 years a piece. I resorted to a bubble alignment tool before I started and reset to the same measurement after
Yah!! Finaly a Dodge grand caravan. I have a 03 and 17 and 18. They are great vehicles for 6 years once a month I would drive home 614 miles from Odessa TX to Brownsville TX in the 03. I was working there due to no decent work in Brownsville. In the 6 years I only replaced brakes, coil pack plugs and wires hoses and belt . Of course oil changes.
@21:38 Spread a thin film of that same grease onto the axle's lock ring. It will slip soundly into place and seated without undo effort... no hammering force needed.
Ray, your videos are first rate!!
That van has been around the block a few times!
Another great video Ray!! I had no idea about the newer tail lights as to their construction and such. I do hope the owner opted to replace those remnants of motor mounts...that could also be a source of clunking noises. As for that axle...a nice easy fix is always great to see.
That thing is leaking oil big time, everywhere. I guess you can't complain too much with all that mileage. It sounds like it runs pretty good, so it may be worth fixing a little at a time or like a car I had when I was a kid, you didn't have to change the oil, it was constantly being changed, just change the filter every now and then. LOL Great job on the axle, it went pretty smooth, the light too. Good video
Yup, those Dodge acorn nuts separate from their stainless shell. I have a 2005 3.8 Grand Caravan SXT and my solution was that I bought a whole box of the nuts (short $) from a local junkyard. As soon as they start separating, I replace them.
squirrels stealing them?
I had a 07 that did the same thing with the tail light. Went to the junkyard and bought one for $10. Easiest tail lights ever to replace. I now have and 07 accord and I replaced the taillights in it I had to drop the bumper just to find the bracket to be rusted out. You can have anything simple anymore it seems .
Your expression " Everything is a Hammer" is one of my pet hates, had a young trainee using my Bedford Vernadium 3/4 AF and hitting a tie rod with it, 😢 he got a bollocking a Spanner is a Spanner 🔧 a Hammer is a Hammer 🔨. Misused tools are usually why people get hurt.
Another great video with some awesome camera work. Really nice shot of the moving CV axle. Waiting for your upload to post is a little like waiting for Christmas morning, you don't know what you're going to get and you hope it will be something really good. Thanks again for another great video, now my day is complete.
Bringing back memories- uni student had an old 300k 1980s Japanese car with way worse CV's- they clunked. Bottom of car exactly like this one. LH outer CV seized on freeway. Took a 1km to slow slow down through the gears without brakes (this car was way before ABS- but brakes were total sht anyway). Waited. Amazingly- came it unstuck- slowly drove to nearest exit- lucky day- a CV and Diff place was within 400m of freeway, cool old dude swapped out old axles for new ones $150- he kept the old axles. Car drove sweet as a nut. Best money I ever spent. Japanese cars are amazing.
If you can feel the clunks through the steering wheel- don't drive it- very very dangerous.
Those are not oil leaks, that is the Chrysler self lubricating chassis system, a very common option on these cars~
My old Japanese car had that. Never needed it in bone dry Australia.
I just finished out a complete swap of suspension and steering on my PT. Unfortunately, the new steeringing gear sprung a seal leak and I had to replace it again.
It went to the alignment shop today
Prior to sending it, I did various checks and got the alignment in the ball park, but using my inexpensive camber checking tool, I found the camber way out, further than it could be adjusted.
I bout the camber adjustment bolts for it and sent them with the car to be aligned.
It's a good thing that I did. They had to use it to get it aligned properly.
Cost me a bit more in labor, since they installed them. I could have, but wasn't so sure I needed them.
The camber bolts are built oblong and replace one of the strut bolts and because of their shape, they allow for the camber adjustment.
Sure glad I knew this before it went in and part of all this is from watching various videos of Ray's in the first place.
I also agree from Minnesota, the ease 17 18 year old bolts come off,
Ray when checking turn signals use the havard function because now they are both on the same fuse
490k on my original 3.8. We use them as oversize escort vehicles. The vehicle overall likes to leak oil and consume cv axles and alternators. Also a transmission about every 100k.
If you serviced the transmission it would actually last 😂
Ray, I am always impressed with your diagnostic skills. Great job as always! Don’t forget to torque the lug nuts. You probably did that off camera, but thought I’d mention it just in case.
Keep up the content!! Always enjoy videos that fix things!
ah, i've been IT for 30 years. Never reassemble without testing. That's bad luck. Thanks for sharing!
My 1989 caravan I popped the lower ball joint and cranked the steering all the way out and had plenty of room and no alignment changes.
Great video Ray, as usual. Yes, those tail lights are easy to change, but you have to open the hatch. Immediately before my buddy's bulb burned out, someone backed into his and it would not open!!! Not manually or powered. He got pulled over several times before he could get the hatch open.
Ray was down your way in May(I am Canadian) felt better knowing wasnt far away from your shop in my 333000 mi. 2013 jeep compass 4x4 waved at your shop on way to Red Barn keep doing what you do
Always wondered why they don't use a much tougher material than rubber to cover/seal the joint?
When I see black oil spots in parking spaces. Now I know where it’s coming from 😊. Like big oil spot on your floor Ray
“What’s that clicking noise” - Henry Cho. Look it up. Funny stuff.
Nice work Ray, you have a fantastic day!!!
Hey ray i hate dealing with these seals as well and the best tool I've found for them is a lot of patience lube and a rolling head pry bar they have the same concept I'm not sure if mine is worn all round but it's the best thing I got
Wife Unit making shop walls nice 'n shiny at 3:58. 👍
Caster chamber bubble level on the hub is a good quick reference for reassembly
I wanna say congratulations ray on your reward and the trophy that you get to keep for the month of August
We finally have cloud cover today. It's been 3 or 4 weeks. Thank God. I am on season 2 of 3, of The Chosen.
Hey Ray, hope you are having a great day!!!!!
Good lord that baby is hurting. Rod knock, motor mounts bad axle leaking everywhere. Yikes. She may have finally hit the wall. Have a great day Ray!
All you have to do is look at the Mardi-Gras parade up front and the yard sale going on in the rear. That should tell you all you need to know, just put gas in it and go. That's probably the first time it's being on a ramp in 200,000 miles. You have three kinds of owners, aware, oblivious or don't care. I think this owner is aware but don't care
already setback $400+ today. new cv will not last long with all these broken mounts. One day at a time, live life to fullest.
@@forgetfulme1719 or One mile at a time, drive until it drops
Ray has all those used fixed cars on the lot for sale, 30 days Ray's warranty.
Good afternoon Mr Ray hope you and your family are having a great day, thanks for the video it was great
At least it has a fairly new battery! Low maintenance on that car, gas and oil only' nothing else. Great Video Sir..
I just changed a control arm on my Kia and to get the ball joint loose, I employed the upside down castle nut and hammer method.
It forced the castle nut down, spreading the castles and becoming one with the thread. Crap!
I got two new ball joints and will change them with the control arms.
I hope the mounts are show us Ray!!! Thx
I used to love doing front drive axels. Easy money and a nice break from those frustrating jobs.
I enjoyed it more than usual, since this is essentially the same as my baby, which is even older than this one, but better maintained.
The gasket for the oil filter flange was another really common oil leakage source on the 3.3 and 3.8L engines in the Caravan and T&C. There was a warranty campaign on it way back when, and the fix was a different flange with a formed rubber seal. I see very few of those.
I just changed the gasket on our 2007 with 3.8 the gasket was hard as a rock I ended up ordering both seals one was the rubber o ring type and the other paper gasket hasn't leaked sence new gasket didn't see an update housing
Hello ray,
I think I saw the new drive shaft (transmission side)splitted in half while installation.please double check.
Cheers
Lowering video transition at 22:20
Smooth, I see what you did there
Awesome of you to notice! I worked hard on that one.
Ray. Love some of introduction of past car problems
Ray i did wonder why you not just replaced the CV joint at the wheel end or it only comes as a all in one unit.
Inserting the inner joint always have the gap at the bottom as less chance of it getting nipped.
Nice job.
I was going to say you did not top up the oil , Troy will fix it . Ok.
it usually comes as an assembly as CV's need to be pressed on. To remove a CV is destructive without some soft hammers and drifts. It's much easier job to replace the assembly. I think it probably works out cheaper too.
@@markiobook8639
I have replaced 100s of cvs over many decades , some had an internal circlip needing a sharp quick blow to release it . Others needed an expanding circlip pliers to release it out of the groove. Jap cars we have found are a bugger to remove and might have to be cut off.
Our elderly customers could afford a new joint under a 100 Euro as a complete Half shaft might have been 180+.
Hyundai Santa Fe had an issue with ABS rings splitting due to rust on CV . One had to buy a new Half shaft or 2 when sensors had errors.
Never seen one that had to be pressed on in 40 years..
I do agree at times it can work out cheaper but sometimes stock is main dealer only.
You no check the back me up lights? Bad Ray. Just kidding. Awesome video as always. Have a very good day young man.
I Paint mark the strut bolt heads to the strut shoe every time I have to remove them just in case they are a cammed bolt. What i own have cammed bolts. Witness marks also are marked. Have never had to have an alinement done so far.
Regarding the oil light.
I just had it coming on and off, 12 Tranist Connect, but did not stay on. It presented with, dead gas pedal, stalling when stopped and slow to no shifting without pumping the gas pedal. Being a deliver van I thought it was done. Thanks to youtube and $20, I changed the oil pressure sensor and reset all, or any codes and no more problems.
Ray, thank you for explaining in detail what you are doing and why. Great job for being a mentor for Troy.
Finally a job that went well with no issues.
Love the self oiling anti corrosion system.
I always watch your videosI just changed put the cv axle on my sisters dodge caravan. Easy peasy, lemon squeezee🎉
I tried avoidng the part where she'd need a wheel alignment, but the van fought bk. I hot er done in the end
The 3.8 waa a powerful v6.
I use to drag race my 2005 minivan 3.8
I shocked many .
There's a transmission trick also, but heh my secret
I once raced a Ford lightening,. All he could do is barely get a half fender on me
Took on a few mustangs and they also couldn't get more than a half fender on me.
I blew several cv axels drag racing.
Always had a extra .
I limped home a few times
3.8 at one point got detuned..they were a damn good engine
My Subaru when i was younger had a bad cv joint that popped as you drove, especially up hills. It's nickname was Orville popcorn
Ahhh The Old Dodge Caravan, a staple of many mechanics bread and butter.
Amazing more people aren't stranded with flats they can't change due to lug nut mayhem.
Did you forget to clip in that wheel speed sensor wire? Thanks for the Doge video!
I appreciate the detail that you go into, as the high value part of these videos is that we learn the highs and lows of doing each task. One question and not specifically about this Dodge, when you see a vehicle that has numerous faults does it frustrate or wear you down as it all could have been avoided with regular service ? Now you are the bunny who has to advise the customer of all the problems. An unnecessary stress.