That’s a 5 amp hour battery. It has nothing to do with 5amps. It means you can run 5 amps for an hour, 10 for 1/2 hour etc depending on the load. Secondly that meter does not have the function of using the leads to measure current, some do with up to a 10A max and you need to be in series with the circuit. Unlike what you’re trying with running the tool. Some do but that’s a clamp-on only for current measurements. Third these are batteries, this is DC voltage and current. Your clamp on does not measure DC current. Again, some do but not yours. Don’t use multimeters if you don’t understand them, it can be dangerous.
Well, technically, he was in series with the circuit. It was a short circuit, but he was definitely in series with it (or at least he thought he was, thank goodness that meter doesn't have the ability to measure current across the leads)! My eyes about popped out of my head. Of course, he would have just blown the fuse, but still.
HEMI LOVER Nice sounds like you got a lot of good toys! Yeah Milwaukee is great, I had been running Ridgid exclusively and then Milwaukee sent me out some really nice tools for free like my M18 Fuel cordless mud mixer kit I have reviewed and their brand new M18 Fuel cordless drain snake kit that just came out this November which I will be reviewing soon and I have bought a couple myself including the new M18 Fuel cordless Blower and the M18 Fuel cordless Surge Impulse Driver and now that I have 5 Milwaukee M18 Red Lithium batteries (4 - 5.0amp and 1 - 1.5amp) to establish me very well into the Milwaukee platform I will be running both Milwaukee tools and Ridgid tools now! The next one I'm picking up is the sweet new M18 Fuel cordless Gen2 Impact Gun with 1400lb-ft of nut busting torque in reverse and 1100lb-ft torque in forward, that thing is a beast! I can kiss my air impact gun goodbye once I get the Milwaukee lol!
Not so great when it comes to servicing faulty items. You have to wait 2-3 weeks and probably buy another one meantime or go on holiday. Too many failed in my company, so we switched to DeWalt and no more problems.
That's interest and good to know, I don't know much about electric cells and things like that and how that stuff works so it is interest to be told how it works, that's for watching the video and commenting!
To test amperage you'd have to actually put a load on it and then hook up the meter in series on one of the leads. I'm not sure why that 12A load showed up but that's definitely not accurate. It also shouldn't be that constant under a real load. It'll vary depending on the amount of trigger you're pulling
Yeah I'm not to sure about the amperage reading idk much about that stuff. But I know the batteries when fully charged will read 20 volts but under load it should drop to 18 volts so that kinda stumped me, maybe its cuz the battery I was using was in a fully charged state and that caused it from dropping down to 18 volts. Also that multimeter i was running was an old crappy one that had glitches and wouldn't turn on right sometimes and stuff, since then I have ditched that multimeter for a very nice high end Klein M700 multimeter which works great!
Chevy513 - Yes you’re right. Most batteries have what is known as a Voltage Sag. So whenever you place the battery cell or pack under a load, the overall voltage will dip by a couple of volts. The smaller the sag generally means the better the battery quality. But really I don’t think you could get much better than say 1V or so.
@@honestinsincerity2270 You know what I've also noticed is if I have a fully charged battery it will read 20 volts but if I take a battery that has been run say half way down it will read 18 volts then, I've noticed the same thing with stuff like AA batteries they are 1.5 volts and will read 1.6 brand new and as you use them the voltage will lower over time, I've checked some of my used AA batteries that aren't dead but have been used for awhile and they will read 1.4 or sometimes 1.3 volts
@@chevy5137 lithium batteries have what is known as nominal voltage which is in essence its average voltage over its usable life span. in the case of lithium ion cells like the 18650 cells that comprise your drill battery the nominal voltage is 3.6 volts. which is why they label it as an 18 volt battery. 3.6 volts times five cells in series which is 18v. the voltage range of one 18650 cell is 3v to 4.2 volts. this is why you are getting over 20v when you measure them fully charged.
@@danielroark171 Yes and this is a common thing and companies like DeWalt and Porter Cable say 20volt max* because without being under load they are 20volt but in all reality they are the same as any 18volt battery out there
It is not a 5A battery pack. It is a 5Ah battery pack. That figure does not relate to the current that it can provide at all. The 5Ah is a measure of how much charge can be stored in the battery. What it actually means is that it can supply 5A of current for 1 hour, or it means that it can supply 1A of current for 5 hours, or any other two numbers that when multiplied give 5. I personally do not like Ah as a unit because it omits an important piece of information, namely that it can supply 1A for 5 hours WITH A VOLTAGE OF 18V. I think that the unit Wh is much better because it incorporates the current and the voltage. A single Watt hour means that it can provide 1 W for 1 hour. Remember that Watts are Amps x Volts. So, that 5Ah battery pack is 18 x 5 Wh = 90Wh. The current that the battery delivers depends upon the internal resistance (r) of the battery pack and the resistance (R) of the load you are attaching (the drill motor). (It is actually impedance but let's keep it simple - resistance.) Anyway, the Current = 18V/(R+r).
The li-ion cells range from 3V to 4.2V when fully charged. So 5 cell battery would vary between 15-21V. Btw - don't try to measure current by setting your multimeter to current and touching the terminals - that effectively shorts out the battery and huge amount of current will flow and melt your wires. Fortunately this multimeter does not have the facility to measure direct current with the probes, besides it is only for AC voltage. If you want to check the capacity which is measured in Ah the only way is to fully charge and discharge the battery using an equipment that can calculate the total energy.
Virtually all multimeters in general have an option to switch between AC and DC current readings, on a lot of nicer ones it will switch between them automatically. Also an 18-Volt battery displays 20-volts at optimum capacity and 18-Volts under load and as long as your not touching the same terminal to itself then it won't short the battery out, it's like touching the negative and positive terminals of a battery as long as you don't touch them together then they won't short out, it's like jump starting a car since there's something in-between the terminals they don't short out which is why I didn't short out the battery. I may not know that much about batteries but I do know that much. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@chevy5137 incorrect!! You were shorting your battery when you did that. Yes your meter can do ac and dc but the meter you used can not do Dc amps in the way you tried it. That’s why you got a reading that didn’t make sense. You even said in your video that you didn’t understand it and now your gonna act like the commenter don’t know what he’s talking about? Are you serious right now? He was trying to explaining that you did that wrong (which btw you asked people to do in your video). Yes I understand that there are 10 individual batteries inside of your tool battery but when you join them all together you no longer have 10 “individual batteries” you now have 10 CELLS. Those 10 CELLS create 1 BATTERY!! And you put your meter between the positive and negative terminals of that one 10cell battery thus creating a short. You may not believe that, you may not know that, you may not have smelled anything, you may not have noticed and damage or any less performance in your battery BUTT you did short your battery even if it was only for a moment you DID short your battery on RUclips for the whole internet to see and then you act like a jerk in the comments when people try to tell you why that’s a bad idea and you just repeat how dewalt and other companies lie about their voltage because it’s actually an 18 volt battery under load… I got news for you cupcake, 12v car batteries can drop to 11 or even 10 volts when starting a car at times…. We don’t call them 10 volt batteries. We call them 12v. Milwaukee batteries use to be 18v now they are 20v. Read their own website holy cow man. Milwaukee has changed their BMS to allow the battery at to run up to 20v but they are still selling them as 18v because they don’t want their lesser educated customers to be confused by the change in labeling and start buying a bunch of 20v tools they don’t need. So this is how Milwaukee is competing with other companies while also not confusing their customers. Dewalt and others haven’t done anything wrong their batteries are true blue 20 v batteries just like Milwaukee. Dewalt chose to label them fro what they are while Milwaukee chose not to confuse the customers they already had. Take apart a dewalt battery and do the same exact test. You’ll find the same results. And don’t tell me that a 20v battery drops to 18 under load because I just watched you sit there on camera with an “18volt battery” which was reading 20v and it didn’t drop when you pulled the trigger……. Sucks when you start to realize you just proved your own self wrong in front of Everyone. Not to mention ALL batteries voltage drops when they become low on charge. Dewalt, Milwaukee, Makita, heck even black and decker LOL 😂 . One guy tried to tell you that and you said “maybe a fully depleted one” 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 no homie even a battery at 75% full is gonna show a different voltage than one at 100% holy freaking cow.
@@chevy5137 incorrect! You still shorted it. By definition lol…. You shorted that thing buddy for the whole world to see. I do HVAC professionally and I use my drill batteries to start my torches all the time if I don’t have a striker available. I use a pice of foil between the battery terminals to start a spark and that starts my torches. My batteries still work fantastic, I’ve never noticed any change in their performance but that doesn’t mean I didn’t just short my battery. That like having minor fender bender but then telling the officer “well my vehicle still drives so I really didn’t have an accident.” 🤣😂🤣😂🤣 no that’s called Ignorance. And what’s really embarrassing is that I just wrote 58 lines worth of explanation on what you did wrong and why that a bad idea and all you can say is “well that battery still works just fine so it really didn’t get shorted out” it just showed that you are dumbfounded on what to say next so you sit there like a spoiled child who would say “I know you are but what am I?” Wrong attitude homie. You asked for help to explain some things you didn’t understand in your video….. now people are trying to help you and you push it away and treat them like you’re the more educated one? You’re not. That’s a disgusting attitude. All you have to say is “man I didn’t know that I think I understand what you’re saying. I really appreciate you explaining that.” You think people are gonna make fun of you for learning something? Heck no! This community likes helping and teaching people. We don’t make fun of people who try to learn but we do make fun of idiots who refuse to learn. So LEARN. The difference between a back woods, low intelligence, hick dummy and a student is the student chose to learn. We all have areas of our life where we are still learning, still students. You have a choice here to pretend you’re the most intelligent person here or to learn from everyone here. Because I got news for you, I’ve seen MULTIPLE people try to tell you the same thing and you’ve told everyone of them the same thing. You think they are all wrong? You think you’re the one teaching them? You’re not. Listen to them and take the free knowledge they are giving you. P.S. you did short that battery… by definition you shorted that battery.
Hi there it was a very good video by the way. You had asked a couple questions in there one of them being voltage when it read 20 V that's what's called a service charge basically not under load like you said. Now what you did was try to put it underload except you weren't actually loading it up as if you're putting a bolt into a piece of wood or screw that's loading and it would've read a little bit lower 18 something. if you're really hammering Away like at Lugnuts on your tire and then then it would definitely go down to 18 v ish. Think of it like this voltage is pressure the more pressure the more power amperage is simply volume. Whereas a two amp battery seems to not last very long because there's not enough volume or amperage so the amperage is simply more batteries in parallel to give it the volume needed to keep working longer at that rate. And then voltage is just each battery connected in series say 2 1.5 V batteries connected in series would give you 3 V but connected in parallel would still give you one. 5 V but twice the amperage because you adding twice the volume. When you take your car battery in for a free load test at Part Source there's loading that battery up with a bunch of carbon pucks creating a lot of heat that dissipates the battery service charge and then if it doesn't drop below 12 V and 1212.6 that's a good battery after a minute and 30 seconds or whatever the spec is for that battery. Your car battery is 12.6 maybe 600 Amp whereas my truck battery might P 800 A or 900 A it's a bigger engine needs more amperage more volume but it's still 12.6 V. An easy way to explain this is A car battery is 12 V say forget about the 12.6 there's six cells in there and 6×2 V gives you the 12v or really it's 6x2.1 v equals 12.6 volts because they're connected in series so each other. After the low test is complete if the battery still reads 12.6 V that's a good battery and it might be your alternator or starter that's the problem? There's many good references using ohms law which basically would explain how the battery works when you got 12 amps I believe when it should've read six or half of that then you were reading likely two rolls of batteries in series which would double your amperage. These new smart batteries 60 V I believe they're equipped with some type of sensor that knows how much voltage and which circuits to turn on together require voltage like a flexible battery by Dewalt 60v Won't put 60 V to my drill or a would lightly destroy it after few minutes it's just its senses it only needs 20 V so it will last three times as long as a drill that might be at 60 V Justin as an example. So when those diode's turn on and off it figures out how much low to put two I do all tool. The 60 V flex volt battery by Dewalt is really good but really expensive. It won't be much longer before you see at 1:20 V battery the largest I seen is evil volts right now the problem is they get bigger and bigger there's no other way around it and heavier so it's not as useable in a handheld tool but a Tablesaw or a lawnmower it would be just as powerful if not more then as if you plug it into your house because your house standard socket is 15 amp breaker. so if you had 120 V battery at 20 A that song will now be more powerful then if you plug it in and it wouldn't blow the breaker because you're using a battery. Your house has a 240 V receptacle likely for your oven or your air conditioner or your dryer. Where as the rest of the house is 120 V. How can this be? The city provides two 120 V separate lines going into your house going to your panel when connected in series like I said before it would double the voltage for the required appliance whereas the rest the house would be on 120 V connected in parallel. technically you could run your whole house at 240 V that's not advisable. Some countries are still at 240 V and you have to bring a certain adaptor with you so you don't blow your hairdryer. So think of parallel Circuit as 2 circuits running next to each other and then a series circuit would be 2 circuits running in front of one another like a flashlight that carries three or four batteries negative to positive and positive negative and so on and so on which we keep adding the voltages together. If you have 8 D batteries at home through each 1.50 connected together you'll get 12 holes it won't start your car though because there's not enough amperage or volume to start your car but it will run a few accessories like you're you are a light or something. Well I've probably bored you to death but I try to explain things simply hope that helps.
That's a lot of info thanks! Speaking of I know that a lot of countries still use 240 volt outlets and that to run stuff that's from the US you need an adaptor. Also speaking of DeWalt I know how their 60 volt Flex-volt batteries work and how they automatically change voltage depending on the tool, but like you pointed out they are really big and heavy so when you are running a smaller tool like a drill or impact driver you either have to buy a smaller 20 volt battery that you can only use with the smaller 20 volt tools or a heavy 60 volt battery and personally I don't want to use a big heavy battery on my small impact gun cuz then it's not as compact or light which sucks. That's what I like about Milwaukee is they have kept everything 18 volts and just make the larger higher amp batteries for the larger tools so you don't have to buy different batteries for different tools in their lineup.
So lets tell us what's inside the battery, without knowing what's inside the battery SMHID Not that you're a bad guy or anything. But you probably could've done better by not wasting your time, while at the same time not waste ours
I never really claimed to know how much of that works which is why I welcome comments to help me learn more about it, I'm sorry if u felt it was a waste of your time.
@@chevy5137 This video was very helpful to me, you may not have been able to explain much, but I got what I needed from visuals. I'm sure you've gotten the answer, but the nominal voltage of the pack iscalculated by 5 batteries in series times 3.7v nomina per celll=18.5V nominal. A fully charged lithium ion battery is usually about 4.2v, so 5*4.2=21v.
Personally, I want to commend you for stepping out of your comfort zone and making this video, regardless of what anyone says, that's a very hard step for anyone.... Thank you for taking the time to make this video and making it public for us all to see.
That's great that you want to learn but you are in way over your head with this. Before understanding any of the answers you get here you first need to understand the very simple basics. Start with "What is amperage?, What is Voltage? and What is the difference between AC and DC current?". Afterwards learn how to use the meter correctly for checking DC amps and it's limits. That meter is very limited in checking DC amperage. It is made mostly and best suited for checking AC amps with the clamp on feature (not using the leads). Google those simple question and what you learn will greatly help you to understand electricity, the answers to your questions in this video and more.
Your not checking the amps correctly, they should dead load over 100 amps. Measuring the batteries from the cell should be higher than measuring from the voltage regulator of the tool. The system shuts down when the cells reach the minimum voltage that is why the tool feels like full power right to the end. If the batteries go below the minimum voltage they will not charge correctly. That's my 2 cents
I appreciate the comment, I am not great with electrical number and things like that, when it comes to wiring stereos and doing other wiring on cars I am really good but when it comes to things like amps, ohms, etc. I really have no idea about that kind of stuff lol! Thanks for commenting and shedding some light on it for me bud =)
There is no such thing as a plastic heatsink... and the bus bars that run across the top are connected to the batteries on the end. There aren't any heatsinks inside that plastic sealed case.
4:12 - The 12.0 Amps is an errant reading. Fortunately for you, the CL200 meter is not designed to measure current via the leads (page 2 of the manual states "Do not attempt to measure more than 600V or any current on lead input"). If you had used a meter that is designed to measure current through the leads, then you most likely would have blown the fuse in the meter.
that's an ac clamp meter, it will only read amps through a single wire in the clamp and no other way. That's why it says "ac clamp meter" right above the display. What happened is the meter is showing erroneous values because you aren't using it correctly. I know this because I've accidentally tried to read voltage when it was in the amp selection. It doesn't hurt the meter but you weren't actually reading anything
@@chevy5137 it still uses the clamp to measure DC amps however. I have a very similar model of Klein multimeter and I am an electrician by trade. Also it still won't read any amperage unless a load is placed on the battery. You can read voltage without a load but not amperage. Amperage is electrons flowing through a completed circuit. A test meter isn't doing that. There are some meters that do read DC amps using the test leads but the meter has to be hooked in series with a load. You weren't doing any of that haha
The switch on that meter that switches AC and DC Is for voltage only, I have the same meter, learned on it. Was confused for a while on that same point, Amps is amps, this meter can only measure AC current through the clamp like dude said. no AC or DC through the leads on this one In the video tho, you can see it says AC on the screen. The clamp on reads induced voltage by the Hall effect and then calculates to current.
In general a nice video for someone like me who is looking to see how hard it would be to replace the lithium cells in these packs. But unfortunately it does contain some misinformation. 2:10 If manufacturers glued contacts instead of spotwelding or soldering them, they would not conduct any electricity. So I doubt anyone would glue plates to a battery. You can have battery terminals that are spring loaded (like your typical double A remote control) but that only works for low current applications. 3:02 They are not heatsinks, they are (most likely nickel) plates that carry current from the 18650 lithium cells to the connector on the top. The plates on each end of the battery pack have a large surface area in order to be able to carry more current. The plates in the middle cells are smaller because no actual load is drawn from them, these are only used to charge each cell in a balanced fashion. 3:08 Those plastic ridges are not a heat sink, plastic is a terrible conductor of heat so that makes no sense. They are probably just there to add more rigidity to the connectors. You can see the lines match up perfect with the seperating wall between the connector plugs. 4:10 Not sure about this, but you are probably only getting 12 amps because either your meter maxes out, or you probes do not make proper contact with the plates and thus a higher resistance prevents high amps from flowing. Most metals oxidize when come in contact with the air, and then get a thin high resistance oxide layer. If you scrape and poke your multi meter probes into the plates with some force you would probably be able to penetrate this layer see the full amperage (which would probably be around 100 amps initially and then drop off within a few seconds because the cells heat up from internal resistance (which also increases the internal resistance) and the chemistry is not able to replenish the electrons as fast as you are using them. 4:20 Running your drill probably does not add a significant load to the battery, because the drill is not really doing any work when it spins freely. The voltage drops depending on the load you put on the pack. In theory a dead short is a perfect load and therefor you'd see 0 volts potential. However there is no perfect wiring with 0 resistance so even if your drill would be running at max load it would still not drop the pack that low.
Damn that's a lot to take in, see this is what I'm talking about, I just took it apart to look inside it but looked towards the community for answers on how different things work and I have gotten a bunch of comments it's been great! Thanks for watching my video and definitely thank you for commenting in such depth
Yeah, the batteries were beginning to heat up, as there was nearly a short circuit. You'd want to use a ceramic resistor to bleed off the heat while you read that in SERIES. BTW, If you short circuit that stack of batteries long enough, it will turn into a bomb!
Yeah I know about that as a kid I used to wire 9 volt batteries together and they would heat up and explode! These new Lithium Ion batteries have come along way from the old NiCad batteries which had multiple issues like running down on power as they got to the end of the charge, having a shorter lifespan, getting ruined if you left them on the charger to long and so on. These new lithium Ion batteries with all their advanced circuitry and technology are great, they won't get ruined if you leave them on a charger, they will automatically shut off if they get to hot, they deliver full power till the very end of the charge, the lifespan on them is much longer, they have fuel gauges on them to let you know how much charge is left in them and so on. It's really crazy how far battery technology has come and that combined with new brushless motors and advanced circuitry and technology and because of it you can get most tools cordless now. Most of my tools are cordless now even large tools like my Milwaukee M18 Fuel 10" Dual Bevel Sliding Miter Saw and Milwaukee M18 Fuel 8-1/2" Table Saw and they have just as much power as corded tools do! I only have a few corded tools anymore. Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
Wow dude you'll probably never see this comment but I got to give you credit that was so freaking awesome to take your 🔋 pack apart connect your drill to it & test the voltage! I don't kno how to do shit like that so to me that's really 🆒 & just impressive if I showed my friends that they'd be like what the hell are you doing 😂👍👍💯%🆒
I'm glad you found it helpful, I don't know much about how the cells in the battery work so I encourage you to look at other peoples comments to maybe get a better understanding of how they work
Sorry but you must have me mixed up with someone else cuz I have no idea what your talking about bud. I don't need cage sliders whatever they are and if they are something that can be fabricated and welded then I could easily make them myself.
@@johnconnersmithllc6095 Also i may no have dealt much with batteries but I used to Weld and fabricate steel using a MIG welder, doing everything from welding on and mounting utility truck, box bodies, dump truck bodies, flatbeds, snow plows, lift gates etc. as well as fabricating them from nothing put pieces of metal.
It was set to DC aka Direct Current. 20 volts is nominal power it doesn't drop to 18 volts until a load is applied to it. This is why DeWalt can get away with saying "20 volts max" because technically their "18" volt batteries put out 20 volts until there is a load applied to them at which point they drop down to 18 volts.
You are misunderstanding the 18v/20v rating. The nominal voltage of both packs are 3.7v times 5 cells in series = 18.5 volts. When fully charged each cell should be 4.2 volts equaling 21 volts if properly balanced. The drop under a load should be a very small amount usually less than 1 volt, not necessarily to the nominal voltage. Some companies prefer to use more propaganda than others when advertising. That's usually the ones I don't buy from.
Google it or read other battery reviews. Why do you think DeWalt lists on their boxes 20 volts* with and Asterix Its because the no load power is 18 volts. 18-Volt batteries read 20 volts under no load just as 12 volt batteries read 12 volts read 10.6 volts under load
18V is a nominal voltage, fully charged cell is 4.2V x 5 is 21 Volts - when no load is connected. The guy from the video has absolutely no knowledge about measuring batteries as he set the meter on AC, Amps and only because the battery has got an internal limiter, the video ended without involving a local fire-brigade.
18 volts is the nominal voltage of the battery. Which is 3.6 volts per cell multiplied by 5 cells , so 18v. A lithium ion cell reaches full charge at 4.2 volts per cell so 21 volts in this bettery. And will no longer provide power below 3-3.2 volts so about 16v.
@@chevy5137: C’mon, nice try but those are riding/driving gloves, lol. As a construction contractor I’ve known scores of painters and have never seen a single one wear gloves while working. Brickies and framers, yes - painters, no. You’re a cyclist, dollars to donuts!
@Ray Ray For real Husky work gloves, and I'm talking about automotive paint and I never used them when I was actually spraying i would wear disposable rubber gloves. I used them a lot when I would sand vehicles. The padded palm helps lessen the vibration from the DA sander and having open fingers still let's you run your bare hand against the surface to make sure it's properly prepped and that the body filler is smooth and even. Eventually I always started wearing fingerless gloves because a padded palm helps lessen vibration from power tools but still leaves your fingers open for better dexterity so you can grab small things easier than you can with regular gloves on.
I've spent close to 2k this year on milwaukee tools and Batts had 2 xc3.0 batteries die a drill catch fire and button in my saw catch fire......I'm jumping off the milwaukee bandwagon and going back to rigid. even customer support ignored my emails......disappointing
I may not know a ton when it comes to battery electronics but I do know an 18-Volt battery when not under load will read at 20-volts and when a 20-volt Max* battery such as a DeWalt or Porter Cable 20* max battery will read at 20-volt battery may read at 20-volts when under no load will read at 18-volts when under load. it's a marketing gimmick.
@@chevy5137 sorry man but that's not correct. It's not about when under a load 18v and idle 20v. The battery cells are rated At 3.7 volts but at full charge 4.2 volts per cell. The battery pack is rated at 18.5 volts and the full charge is 21 volts. That's where they got the advertised numbers. I personally find the 20v advertisement to be deceiving. I don't buy thoes brands as I don't trust them. Milwaukee is my choice for many reasons.
@@johnnygogo7773 yeah I know what you mean, it's good to get all these comments, as I said i really don't know that much about the electrical side and welcome comments helping to explain it. 👍
incorrect!! You were shorting your battery when you did that. Yes your meter can do ac and dc but the meter you used can not do Dc amps in the way you tried it. That’s why you got a reading that didn’t make sense. You even said in your video that you didn’t understand it and now your gonna act like the commenter don’t know what he’s talking about? Are you serious right now? He was trying to explaining that you did that wrong (which btw you asked people to do in your video). Yes I understand that there are 10 individual batteries inside of your tool battery but when you join them all together you no longer have 10 “individual batteries” you now have 10 CELLS. Those 10 CELLS create 1 BATTERY!! And you put your meter between the positive and negative terminals of that one 10cell battery thus creating a short. You may not believe that, you may not know that, you may not have smelled anything, you may not have noticed and damage or any less performance in your battery BUTT you did short your battery even if it was only for a moment you DID short your battery on RUclips for the whole internet to see and then you act like a jerk in the comments when people try to tell you why that’s a bad idea and you just repeat how dewalt and other companies lie about their voltage because it’s actually an 18 volt battery under load… I got news for you cupcake, 12v car batteries can drop to 11 or even 10 volts when starting a car at times…. We don’t call them 10 volt batteries. We call them 12v. Milwaukee batteries use to be 18v now they are 20v. Read their own website holy cow man. Milwaukee has changed their BMS to allow the battery at to run up to 20v but they are still selling them as 18v because they don’t want their lesser educated customers to be confused by the change in labeling and start buying a bunch of 20v tools they don’t need. So this is how Milwaukee is competing with other companies while also not confusing their customers. Dewalt and others haven’t done anything wrong their batteries are true blue 20 v batteries just like Milwaukee. Dewalt chose to label them fro what they are while Milwaukee chose not to confuse the customers they already had. Take apart a dewalt battery and do the same exact test. You’ll find the same results. And don’t tell me that a 20v battery drops to 18 under load because I just watched you sit there on camera with an “18volt battery” which was reading 20v and it didn’t drop when you pulled the trigger……. Sucks when you start to realize you just proved your own self wrong in front of Everyone. Not to mention ALL batteries voltage drops when they become low on charge. Dewalt, Milwaukee, Makita, heck even black and decker LOL 😂 . One guy tried to tell you that and you said “maybe a fully depleted one” 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 no homie even a battery at 75% full is gonna show a different voltage than one at 100% holy freaking cow. In almost every reply you have something to say about dewalt even if the comment had nothing to do with dewalt In the first place, I’m starting to think a dewalt drill may have touched you inappropriately at one point in time. Did a dewalt drill touch you? Do you need to tell an adult?
As a matter of fact I used to use all DeWalt tools until they got stolen, I like DeWalt they make good tools. Plus a lot of tools claim 20volts the only reason I use DeWalt as an example is it is a brand that everyone knows. Also I don't see what your so upset about, I didn't think there were any comments that I acted like a jerk in and if I did I didn't mean to. There's no need to freak out, I don't understand why your so upset.
@@chevy5137 dude look it’s this simple… inside a modern drill battery of dewalt, Milwaukee, hart, black and decker, and yes even Mikita, there are 5 18650 cells. Heavy cell when fully charged equals 4-4.2 vdc. They add up to be 20-21v dc. ALL of them are 20 v even Mikita said it on their own website. I went through all the comments of people trying to help you and almost every single time they give you advice you discount it. If you don’t want advice or explanation then don’t ask for it. These were trying to help you by explaining it to you and you acted like they didn’t know what they were talking about…… but they did. You were the one that didn’t know what he was talking about. Dewalt and the others claim 20v because they ARE 20v LOL.
That’s a 5 amp hour battery. It has nothing to do with 5amps. It means you can run 5 amps for an hour, 10 for 1/2 hour etc depending on the load. Secondly that meter does not have the function of using the leads to measure current, some do with up to a 10A max and you need to be in series with the circuit. Unlike what you’re trying with running the tool. Some do but that’s a clamp-on only for current measurements. Third these are batteries, this is DC voltage and current. Your clamp on does not measure DC current. Again, some do but not yours. Don’t use multimeters if you don’t understand them, it can be dangerous.
Well, technically, he was in series with the circuit. It was a short circuit, but he was definitely in series with it (or at least he thought he was, thank goodness that meter doesn't have the ability to measure current across the leads)! My eyes about popped out of my head. Of course, he would have just blown the fuse, but still.
Milwaukee tools are the best. ... Sawzalls, grinders, ratchets and the new High Torque impacts .. I have them all
HEMI LOVER Nice sounds like you got a lot of good toys! Yeah Milwaukee is great, I had been running Ridgid exclusively and then Milwaukee sent me out some really nice tools for free like my M18 Fuel cordless mud mixer kit I have reviewed and their brand new M18 Fuel cordless drain snake kit that just came out this November which I will be reviewing soon and I have bought a couple myself including the new M18 Fuel cordless Blower and the M18 Fuel cordless Surge Impulse Driver and now that I have 5 Milwaukee M18 Red Lithium batteries (4 - 5.0amp and 1 - 1.5amp) to establish me very well into the Milwaukee platform I will be running both Milwaukee tools and Ridgid tools now! The next one I'm picking up is the sweet new M18 Fuel cordless Gen2 Impact Gun with 1400lb-ft of nut busting torque in reverse and 1100lb-ft torque in forward, that thing is a beast! I can kiss my air impact gun goodbye once I get the Milwaukee lol!
Not so great when it comes to servicing faulty items. You have to wait 2-3 weeks and probably buy another one meantime or go on holiday. Too many failed in my company, so we switched to DeWalt and no more problems.
Definitely a Quality made Battery pack" That's Another reason that only choose Milwaukee Power Tools 💪 The Best.
Absolutely, go Team Red! Stay tuned I'm thinking I might open up one of my 3 new 12amp batteries I have to check it out!
5amp hour… which means you can pull 5 amp at it’s rated voltage for 1 hour before it’s dead
at full charge the battery pack would read 21volts and the nominal cell voltage is 3.6volts so that is why it is M18 bc 3.6x5=18
That's interest and good to know, I don't know much about electric cells and things like that and how that stuff works so it is interest to be told how it works, that's for watching the video and commenting!
To test amperage you'd have to actually put a load on it and then hook up the meter in series on one of the leads. I'm not sure why that 12A load showed up but that's definitely not accurate. It also shouldn't be that constant under a real load. It'll vary depending on the amount of trigger you're pulling
Yeah I'm not to sure about the amperage reading idk much about that stuff. But I know the batteries when fully charged will read 20 volts but under load it should drop to 18 volts so that kinda stumped me, maybe its cuz the battery I was using was in a fully charged state and that caused it from dropping down to 18 volts. Also that multimeter i was running was an old crappy one that had glitches and wouldn't turn on right sometimes and stuff, since then I have ditched that multimeter for a very nice high end Klein M700 multimeter which works great!
Chevy513 - Yes you’re right. Most batteries have what is known as a Voltage Sag. So whenever you place the battery cell or pack under a load, the overall voltage will dip by a couple of volts. The smaller the sag generally means the better the battery quality. But really I don’t think you could get much better than say 1V or so.
@@honestinsincerity2270 You know what I've also noticed is if I have a fully charged battery it will read 20 volts but if I take a battery that has been run say half way down it will read 18 volts then, I've noticed the same thing with stuff like AA batteries they are 1.5 volts and will read 1.6 brand new and as you use them the voltage will lower over time, I've checked some of my used AA batteries that aren't dead but have been used for awhile and they will read 1.4 or sometimes 1.3 volts
@@chevy5137 lithium batteries have what is known as nominal voltage which is in essence its average voltage over its usable life span. in the case of lithium ion cells like the 18650 cells that comprise your drill battery the nominal voltage is 3.6 volts. which is why they label it as an 18 volt battery. 3.6 volts times five cells in series which is 18v. the voltage range of one 18650 cell is 3v to 4.2 volts. this is why you are getting over 20v when you measure them fully charged.
@@danielroark171 Yes and this is a common thing and companies like DeWalt and Porter Cable say 20volt max* because without being under load they are 20volt but in all reality they are the same as any 18volt battery out there
It is not a 5A battery pack. It is a 5Ah battery pack. That figure does not relate to the current that it can provide at all. The 5Ah is a measure of how much charge can be stored in the battery. What it actually means is that it can supply 5A of current for 1 hour, or it means that it can supply 1A of current for 5 hours, or any other two numbers that when multiplied give 5. I personally do not like Ah as a unit because it omits an important piece of information, namely that it can supply 1A for 5 hours WITH A VOLTAGE OF 18V. I think that the unit Wh is much better because it incorporates the current and the voltage. A single Watt hour means that it can provide 1 W for 1 hour. Remember that Watts are Amps x Volts. So, that 5Ah battery pack is 18 x 5 Wh = 90Wh. The current that the battery delivers depends upon the internal resistance (r) of the battery pack and the resistance (R) of the load you are attaching (the drill motor). (It is actually impedance but let's keep it simple - resistance.) Anyway, the Current = 18V/(R+r).
The li-ion cells range from 3V to 4.2V when fully charged. So 5 cell battery would vary between 15-21V. Btw - don't try to measure current by setting your multimeter to current and touching the terminals - that effectively shorts out the battery and huge amount of current will flow and melt your wires. Fortunately this multimeter does not have the facility to measure direct current with the probes, besides it is only for AC voltage. If you want to check the capacity which is measured in Ah the only way is to fully charge and discharge the battery using an equipment that can calculate the total energy.
Virtually all multimeters in general have an option to switch between AC and DC current readings, on a lot of nicer ones it will switch between them automatically. Also an 18-Volt battery displays 20-volts at optimum capacity and 18-Volts under load and as long as your not touching the same terminal to itself then it won't short the battery out, it's like touching the negative and positive terminals of a battery as long as you don't touch them together then they won't short out, it's like jump starting a car since there's something in-between the terminals they don't short out which is why I didn't short out the battery. I may not know that much about batteries but I do know that much. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@chevy5137 incorrect!! You were shorting your battery when you did that. Yes your meter can do ac and dc but the meter you used can not do Dc amps in the way you tried it. That’s why you got a reading that didn’t make sense. You even said in your video that you didn’t understand it and now your gonna act like the commenter don’t know what he’s talking about? Are you serious right now? He was trying to explaining that you did that wrong (which btw you asked people to do in your video). Yes I understand that there are 10 individual batteries inside of your tool battery but when you join them all together you no longer have 10 “individual batteries” you now have 10 CELLS. Those 10 CELLS create 1 BATTERY!! And you put your meter between the positive and negative terminals of that one 10cell battery thus creating a short. You may not believe that, you may not know that, you may not have smelled anything, you may not have noticed and damage or any less performance in your battery BUTT you did short your battery even if it was only for a moment you DID short your battery on RUclips for the whole internet to see and then you act like a jerk in the comments when people try to tell you why that’s a bad idea and you just repeat how dewalt and other companies lie about their voltage because it’s actually an 18 volt battery under load… I got news for you cupcake, 12v car batteries can drop to 11 or even 10 volts when starting a car at times…. We don’t call them 10 volt batteries. We call them 12v. Milwaukee batteries use to be 18v now they are 20v. Read their own website holy cow man. Milwaukee has changed their BMS to allow the battery at to run up to 20v but they are still selling them as 18v because they don’t want their lesser educated customers to be confused by the change in labeling and start buying a bunch of 20v tools they don’t need. So this is how Milwaukee is competing with other companies while also not confusing their customers. Dewalt and others haven’t done anything wrong their batteries are true blue 20 v batteries just like Milwaukee. Dewalt chose to label them fro what they are while Milwaukee chose not to confuse the customers they already had. Take apart a dewalt battery and do the same exact test. You’ll find the same results. And don’t tell me that a 20v battery drops to 18 under load because I just watched you sit there on camera with an “18volt battery” which was reading 20v and it didn’t drop when you pulled the trigger……. Sucks when you start to realize you just proved your own self wrong in front of Everyone. Not to mention ALL batteries voltage drops when they become low on charge. Dewalt, Milwaukee, Makita, heck even black and decker LOL 😂 . One guy tried to tell you that and you said “maybe a fully depleted one” 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 no homie even a battery at 75% full is gonna show a different voltage than one at 100% holy freaking cow.
@@scottybell2060 well that battery still works just fine so it really didn't get shorted out
@@chevy5137 incorrect! You still shorted it. By definition lol…. You shorted that thing buddy for the whole world to see. I do HVAC professionally and I use my drill batteries to start my torches all the time if I don’t have a striker available. I use a pice of foil between the battery terminals to start a spark and that starts my torches. My batteries still work fantastic, I’ve never noticed any change in their performance but that doesn’t mean I didn’t just short my battery. That like having minor fender bender but then telling the officer “well my vehicle still drives so I really didn’t have an accident.” 🤣😂🤣😂🤣 no that’s called Ignorance. And what’s really embarrassing is that I just wrote 58 lines worth of explanation on what you did wrong and why that a bad idea and all you can say is “well that battery still works just fine so it really didn’t get shorted out” it just showed that you are dumbfounded on what to say next so you sit there like a spoiled child who would say “I know you are but what am I?” Wrong attitude homie. You asked for help to explain some things you didn’t understand in your video….. now people are trying to help you and you push it away and treat them like you’re the more educated one? You’re not. That’s a disgusting attitude. All you have to say is “man I didn’t know that I think I understand what you’re saying. I really appreciate you explaining that.” You think people are gonna make fun of you for learning something? Heck no! This community likes helping and teaching people. We don’t make fun of people who try to learn but we do make fun of idiots who refuse to learn. So LEARN. The difference between a back woods, low intelligence, hick dummy and a student is the student chose to learn. We all have areas of our life where we are still learning, still students. You have a choice here to pretend you’re the most intelligent person here or to learn from everyone here. Because I got news for you, I’ve seen MULTIPLE people try to tell you the same thing and you’ve told everyone of them the same thing. You think they are all wrong? You think you’re the one teaching them? You’re not. Listen to them and take the free knowledge they are giving you.
P.S. you did short that battery… by definition you shorted that battery.
@@scottybell2060 💀💀💀
Hi there it was a very good video by the way. You had asked a couple questions in there one of them being voltage when it read 20 V that's what's called a service charge basically not under load like you said. Now what you did was try to put it underload except you weren't actually loading it up as if you're putting a bolt into a piece of wood or screw that's loading and it would've read a little bit lower 18 something. if you're really hammering Away like at Lugnuts on your tire and then then it would definitely go down to 18 v ish. Think of it like this voltage is pressure the more pressure the more power amperage is simply volume. Whereas a two amp battery seems to not last very long because there's not enough volume or amperage so the amperage is simply more batteries in parallel to give it the volume needed to keep working longer at that rate. And then voltage is just each battery connected in series say 2 1.5 V batteries connected in series would give you 3 V but connected in parallel would still give you one. 5 V but twice the amperage because you adding twice the volume. When you take your car battery in for a free load test at Part Source there's loading that battery up with a bunch of carbon pucks creating a lot of heat that dissipates the battery service charge and then if it doesn't drop below 12 V and 1212.6 that's a good battery after a minute and 30 seconds or whatever the spec is for that battery. Your car battery is 12.6 maybe 600 Amp whereas my truck battery might P 800 A or 900 A it's a bigger engine needs more amperage more volume but it's still 12.6 V. An easy way to explain this is A car battery is 12 V say forget about the 12.6 there's six cells in there and 6×2 V gives you the 12v or really it's 6x2.1 v equals 12.6 volts because they're connected in series so each other. After the low test is complete if the battery still reads 12.6 V that's a good battery and it might be your alternator or starter that's the problem? There's many good references using ohms law which basically would explain how the battery works when you got 12 amps I believe when it should've read six or half of that then you were reading likely two rolls of batteries in series which would double your amperage. These new smart batteries 60 V I believe they're equipped with some type of sensor that knows how much voltage and which circuits to turn on together require voltage like a flexible battery by Dewalt 60v Won't put 60 V to my drill or a would lightly destroy it after few minutes it's just its senses it only needs 20 V so it will last three times as long as a drill that might be at 60 V Justin as an example. So when those diode's turn on and off it figures out how much low to put two I do all tool. The 60 V flex volt battery by Dewalt is really good but really expensive. It won't be much longer before you see at 1:20 V battery the largest I seen is evil volts right now the problem is they get bigger and bigger there's no other way around it and heavier so it's not as useable in a handheld tool but a Tablesaw or a lawnmower it would be just as powerful if not more then as if you plug it into your house because your house standard socket is 15 amp breaker. so if you had 120 V battery at 20 A that song will now be more powerful then if you plug it in and it wouldn't blow the breaker because you're using a battery. Your house has a 240 V receptacle likely for your oven or your air conditioner or your dryer. Where as the rest of the house is 120 V. How can this be? The city provides two 120 V separate lines going into your house going to your panel when connected in series like I said before it would double the voltage for the required appliance whereas the rest the house would be on 120 V connected in parallel. technically you could run your whole house at 240 V that's not advisable. Some countries are still at 240 V and you have to bring a certain adaptor with you so you don't blow your hairdryer. So think of parallel Circuit as 2 circuits running next to each other and then a series circuit would be 2 circuits running in front of one another like a flashlight that carries three or four batteries negative to positive and positive negative and so on and so on which we keep adding the voltages together. If you have 8 D batteries at home through each 1.50 connected together you'll get 12 holes it won't start your car though because there's not enough amperage or volume to start your car but it will run a few accessories like you're you are a light or something. Well I've probably bored you to death but I try to explain things simply hope that helps.
That's a lot of info thanks! Speaking of I know that a lot of countries still use 240 volt outlets and that to run stuff that's from the US you need an adaptor. Also speaking of DeWalt I know how their 60 volt Flex-volt batteries work and how they automatically change voltage depending on the tool, but like you pointed out they are really big and heavy so when you are running a smaller tool like a drill or impact driver you either have to buy a smaller 20 volt battery that you can only use with the smaller 20 volt tools or a heavy 60 volt battery and personally I don't want to use a big heavy battery on my small impact gun cuz then it's not as compact or light which sucks. That's what I like about Milwaukee is they have kept everything 18 volts and just make the larger higher amp batteries for the larger tools so you don't have to buy different batteries for different tools in their lineup.
So lets tell us what's inside the battery, without knowing what's inside the battery SMHID
Not that you're a bad guy or anything. But you probably could've done better by not wasting your time, while at the same time not waste ours
I never really claimed to know how much of that works which is why I welcome comments to help me learn more about it, I'm sorry if u felt it was a waste of your time.
@@chevy5137 This video was very helpful to me, you may not have been able to explain much, but I got what I needed from visuals. I'm sure you've gotten the answer, but the nominal voltage of the pack iscalculated by 5 batteries in series times 3.7v nomina per celll=18.5V nominal. A fully charged lithium ion battery is usually about 4.2v, so 5*4.2=21v.
Personally, I want to commend you for stepping out of your comfort zone and making this video, regardless of what anyone says, that's a very hard step for anyone....
Thank you for taking the time to make this video and making it public for us all to see.
That's great that you want to learn but you are in way over your head with this. Before understanding any of the answers you get here you first need to understand the very simple basics. Start with "What is amperage?, What is Voltage? and What is the difference between AC and DC current?". Afterwards learn how to use the meter correctly for checking DC amps and it's limits. That meter is very limited in checking DC amperage. It is made mostly and best suited for checking AC amps with the clamp on feature (not using the leads). Google those simple question and what you learn will greatly help you to understand electricity, the answers to your questions in this video and more.
20v max means that the output will be around 20v when the battery is fully charged and not on heavy load. There will be less volts on 20% charge
Your not checking the amps correctly, they should dead load over 100 amps. Measuring the batteries from the cell should be higher than measuring from the voltage regulator of the tool. The system shuts down when the cells reach the minimum voltage that is why the tool feels like full power right to the end. If the batteries go below the minimum voltage they will not charge correctly. That's my 2 cents
I appreciate the comment, I am not great with electrical number and things like that, when it comes to wiring stereos and doing other wiring on cars I am really good but when it comes to things like amps, ohms, etc. I really have no idea about that kind of stuff lol! Thanks for commenting and shedding some light on it for me bud =)
The security bit is a vt10
There is no such thing as a plastic heatsink... and the bus bars that run across the top are connected to the batteries on the end. There aren't any heatsinks inside that plastic sealed case.
4:12 - The 12.0 Amps is an errant reading. Fortunately for you, the CL200 meter is not designed to measure current via the leads (page 2 of the manual states "Do not attempt to measure more than 600V or any current on lead input"). If you had used a meter that is designed to measure current through the leads, then you most likely would have blown the fuse in the meter.
that's an ac clamp meter, it will only read amps through a single wire in the clamp and no other way. That's why it says "ac clamp meter" right above the display. What happened is the meter is showing erroneous values because you aren't using it correctly. I know this because I've accidentally tried to read voltage when it was in the amp selection. It doesn't hurt the meter but you weren't actually reading anything
It actually has a switch to change it from AC to DC
@@chevy5137 it still uses the clamp to measure DC amps however. I have a very similar model of Klein multimeter and I am an electrician by trade. Also it still won't read any amperage unless a load is placed on the battery. You can read voltage without a load but not amperage. Amperage is electrons flowing through a completed circuit. A test meter isn't doing that.
There are some meters that do read DC amps using the test leads but the meter has to be hooked in series with a load. You weren't doing any of that haha
@@kylefowler5082 Good to know I'm not very proficient with a multimeter. 😉
@@chevy5137 no problem, thanks for taking your battery apart for my entertainment
The switch on that meter that switches AC and DC Is for voltage only, I have the same meter, learned on it. Was confused for a while on that same point, Amps is amps, this meter can only measure AC current through the clamp like dude said. no AC or DC through the leads on this one In the video tho, you can see it says AC on the screen. The clamp on reads induced voltage by the Hall effect and then calculates to current.
In general a nice video for someone like me who is looking to see how hard it would be to replace the lithium cells in these packs. But unfortunately it does contain some misinformation.
2:10 If manufacturers glued contacts instead of spotwelding or soldering them, they would not conduct any electricity. So I doubt anyone would glue plates to a battery. You can have battery terminals that are spring loaded (like your typical double A remote control) but that only works for low current applications.
3:02 They are not heatsinks, they are (most likely nickel) plates that carry current from the 18650 lithium cells to the connector on the top. The plates on each end of the battery pack have a large surface area in order to be able to carry more current. The plates in the middle cells are smaller because no actual load is drawn from them, these are only used to charge each cell in a balanced fashion.
3:08 Those plastic ridges are not a heat sink, plastic is a terrible conductor of heat so that makes no sense. They are probably just there to add more rigidity to the connectors. You can see the lines match up perfect with the seperating wall between the connector plugs.
4:10 Not sure about this, but you are probably only getting 12 amps because either your meter maxes out, or you probes do not make proper contact with the plates and thus a higher resistance prevents high amps from flowing. Most metals oxidize when come in contact with the air, and then get a thin high resistance oxide layer. If you scrape and poke your multi meter probes into the plates with some force you would probably be able to penetrate this layer see the full amperage (which would probably be around 100 amps initially and then drop off within a few seconds because the cells heat up from internal resistance (which also increases the internal resistance) and the chemistry is not able to replenish the electrons as fast as you are using them.
4:20 Running your drill probably does not add a significant load to the battery, because the drill is not really doing any work when it spins freely. The voltage drops depending on the load you put on the pack. In theory a dead short is a perfect load and therefor you'd see 0 volts potential. However there is no perfect wiring with 0 resistance so even if your drill would be running at max load it would still not drop the pack that low.
Damn that's a lot to take in, see this is what I'm talking about, I just took it apart to look inside it but looked towards the community for answers on how different things work and I have gotten a bunch of comments it's been great! Thanks for watching my video and definitely thank you for commenting in such depth
Hello. Thanks for the video. Are you trying to figure out how to get the 5.0AH measurement?
Among the many things I'm trying to learn
Just ran a discharge test on one of mine with an electronic load. 1A constant current, cutoff of 15V- came in a little under at 4.6 Amp-hours.
Yeah, the batteries were beginning to heat up, as there was nearly a short circuit. You'd want to use a ceramic resistor to bleed off the heat while you read that in SERIES. BTW, If you short circuit that stack of batteries long enough, it will turn into a bomb!
Yeah I know about that as a kid I used to wire 9 volt batteries together and they would heat up and explode! These new Lithium Ion batteries have come along way from the old NiCad batteries which had multiple issues like running down on power as they got to the end of the charge, having a shorter lifespan, getting ruined if you left them on the charger to long and so on. These new lithium Ion batteries with all their advanced circuitry and technology are great, they won't get ruined if you leave them on a charger, they will automatically shut off if they get to hot, they deliver full power till the very end of the charge, the lifespan on them is much longer, they have fuel gauges on them to let you know how much charge is left in them and so on. It's really crazy how far battery technology has come and that combined with new brushless motors and advanced circuitry and technology and because of it you can get most tools cordless now. Most of my tools are cordless now even large tools like my Milwaukee M18 Fuel 10" Dual Bevel Sliding Miter Saw and Milwaukee M18 Fuel 8-1/2" Table Saw and they have just as much power as corded tools do! I only have a few corded tools anymore. Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
Wow dude you'll probably never see this comment but I got to give you credit that was so freaking awesome to take your 🔋 pack apart connect your drill to it & test the voltage! I don't kno how to do shit like that so to me that's really 🆒 & just impressive if I showed my friends that they'd be like what the hell are you doing 😂👍👍💯%🆒
Lol thanks dude I'm glad you enjoyed it! 👍
20v max isn't under load or not. It's about max sinus wave. Get yourself a true RMS multimeter and you're gonna get 18v.
Hey thanks for the video I'm about to repair one.
I'm glad you found it helpful, I don't know much about how the cells in the battery work so I encourage you to look at other peoples comments to maybe get a better understanding of how they work
Heatsink need to be metal...or at least conductive.
Good to know, like I said I don't know much of the inner workings of tool batteries. thanks for commenting!
@@chevy5137 Heat-sinks must be conductive not an insulator.
It’s a T10 bit btw:)
Can anyone confirm the LVC (low voltage cut off) for the modern Milwaukee M18 tools?
I think it's around 16v for anyone that might be interested.
Thanks a lot 🙏🏼
Wait a minute...I know you.i recognize your voice to...you are maxi.
Max wrist....the guy I want to build the cage sliders for
Sorry but you must have me mixed up with someone else cuz I have no idea what your talking about bud. I don't need cage sliders whatever they are and if they are something that can be fabricated and welded then I could easily make them myself.
Chevy513 I thought you were max..same voice....youtube search maxwrist.
@@johnconnersmithllc6095 Also i may no have dealt much with batteries but I used to Weld and fabricate steel using a MIG welder, doing everything from welding on and mounting utility truck, box bodies, dump truck bodies, flatbeds, snow plows, lift gates etc. as well as fabricating them from nothing put pieces of metal.
are you sure you had the voltmeter set to DC or was it on AC ?
Voltage should be 18v at the battery not 20V
It was set to DC aka Direct Current. 20 volts is nominal power it doesn't drop to 18 volts until a load is applied to it. This is why DeWalt can get away with saying "20 volts max" because technically their "18" volt batteries put out 20 volts until there is a load applied to them at which point they drop down to 18 volts.
You are misunderstanding the 18v/20v rating. The nominal voltage of both packs are 3.7v times 5 cells in series = 18.5 volts. When fully charged each cell should be 4.2 volts equaling 21 volts if properly balanced. The drop under a load should be a very small amount usually less than 1 volt, not necessarily to the nominal voltage. Some companies prefer to use more propaganda than others when advertising. That's usually the ones I don't buy from.
Google it or read other battery reviews. Why do you think DeWalt lists on their boxes 20 volts* with and Asterix Its because the no load power is 18 volts. 18-Volt batteries read 20 volts under no load just as 12 volt batteries read 12 volts read 10.6 volts under load
18V is a nominal voltage, fully charged cell is 4.2V x 5 is 21 Volts - when no load is connected.
The guy from the video has absolutely no knowledge about measuring batteries as he set the meter on AC, Amps and only because the battery has got an internal limiter, the video ended without involving a local fire-brigade.
18 volts is the nominal voltage of the battery. Which is 3.6 volts per cell multiplied by 5 cells , so 18v. A lithium ion cell reaches full charge at 4.2 volts per cell so 21 volts in this bettery. And will no longer provide power below 3-3.2 volts so about 16v.
That's some great info I'm always eager to learn more about these things, thanks for commenting!
My question is, why are you wearing boxing gloves for this video?
Fingerless work gloves, old painter habbit.
@@chevy5137: C’mon, nice try but those are riding/driving gloves, lol. As a construction contractor I’ve known scores of painters and have never seen a single one wear gloves while working. Brickies and framers, yes - painters, no. You’re a cyclist, dollars to donuts!
@Ray Ray For real Husky work gloves, and I'm talking about automotive paint and I never used them when I was actually spraying i would wear disposable rubber gloves. I used them a lot when I would sand vehicles. The padded palm helps lessen the vibration from the DA sander and having open fingers still let's you run your bare hand against the surface to make sure it's properly prepped and that the body filler is smooth and even. Eventually I always started wearing fingerless gloves because a padded palm helps lessen vibration from power tools but still leaves your fingers open for better dexterity so you can grab small things easier than you can with regular gloves on.
I've spent close to 2k this year on milwaukee tools and Batts had 2 xc3.0 batteries die a drill catch fire and button in my saw catch fire......I'm jumping off the milwaukee bandwagon and going back to rigid. even customer support ignored my emails......disappointing
This guy cant be serious!! I think maybe it's meant to be a joke.
I may not know a ton when it comes to battery electronics but I do know an 18-Volt battery when not under load will read at 20-volts and when a 20-volt Max* battery such as a DeWalt or Porter Cable 20* max battery will read at 20-volt battery may read at 20-volts when under no load will read at 18-volts when under load. it's a marketing gimmick.
@@chevy5137 sorry man but that's not correct. It's not about when under a load 18v and idle 20v. The battery cells are rated At 3.7 volts but at full charge 4.2 volts per cell. The battery pack is rated at 18.5 volts and the full charge is 21 volts. That's where they got the advertised numbers. I personally find the 20v advertisement to be deceiving. I don't buy thoes brands as I don't trust them. Milwaukee is my choice for many reasons.
@@johnnygogo7773 yeah I know what you mean, it's good to get all these comments, as I said i really don't know that much about the electrical side and welcome comments helping to explain it. 👍
Change meter to dc it was on ac
M18 is 18v minimum 20v max
Yes that is true, that's why DeWalt claims their tools as 20-Volt Max* with the Asterix the end.
Actually, when depleated an m18 battery goes down to 16.6xx volts.
@@coryulrich6489 Perhaps a fully depleted one.
incorrect!! You were shorting your battery when you did that. Yes your meter can do ac and dc but the meter you used can not do Dc amps in the way you tried it. That’s why you got a reading that didn’t make sense. You even said in your video that you didn’t understand it and now your gonna act like the commenter don’t know what he’s talking about? Are you serious right now? He was trying to explaining that you did that wrong (which btw you asked people to do in your video). Yes I understand that there are 10 individual batteries inside of your tool battery but when you join them all together you no longer have 10 “individual batteries” you now have 10 CELLS. Those 10 CELLS create 1 BATTERY!! And you put your meter between the positive and negative terminals of that one 10cell battery thus creating a short. You may not believe that, you may not know that, you may not have smelled anything, you may not have noticed and damage or any less performance in your battery BUTT you did short your battery even if it was only for a moment you DID short your battery on RUclips for the whole internet to see and then you act like a jerk in the comments when people try to tell you why that’s a bad idea and you just repeat how dewalt and other companies lie about their voltage because it’s actually an 18 volt battery under load… I got news for you cupcake, 12v car batteries can drop to 11 or even 10 volts when starting a car at times…. We don’t call them 10 volt batteries. We call them 12v. Milwaukee batteries use to be 18v now they are 20v. Read their own website holy cow man. Milwaukee has changed their BMS to allow the battery at to run up to 20v but they are still selling them as 18v because they don’t want their lesser educated customers to be confused by the change in labeling and start buying a bunch of 20v tools they don’t need. So this is how Milwaukee is competing with other companies while also not confusing their customers. Dewalt and others haven’t done anything wrong their batteries are true blue 20 v batteries just like Milwaukee. Dewalt chose to label them fro what they are while Milwaukee chose not to confuse the customers they already had. Take apart a dewalt battery and do the same exact test. You’ll find the same results. And don’t tell me that a 20v battery drops to 18 under load because I just watched you sit there on camera with an “18volt battery” which was reading 20v and it didn’t drop when you pulled the trigger……. Sucks when you start to realize you just proved your own self wrong in front of Everyone. Not to mention ALL batteries voltage drops when they become low on charge. Dewalt, Milwaukee, Makita, heck even black and decker LOL 😂 . One guy tried to tell you that and you said “maybe a fully depleted one” 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 no homie even a battery at 75% full is gonna show a different voltage than one at 100% holy freaking cow. In almost every reply you have something to say about dewalt even if the comment had nothing to do with dewalt In the first place, I’m starting to think a dewalt drill may have touched you inappropriately at one point in time. Did a dewalt drill touch you? Do you need to tell an adult?
As a matter of fact I used to use all DeWalt tools until they got stolen, I like DeWalt they make good tools. Plus a lot of tools claim 20volts the only reason I use DeWalt as an example is it is a brand that everyone knows. Also I don't see what your so upset about, I didn't think there were any comments that I acted like a jerk in and if I did I didn't mean to. There's no need to freak out, I don't understand why your so upset.
@@chevy5137 those tools that you say “claim 20volts”………they claim 20volt because they are 20volt 🤦♂️
@@chevy5137 dude look it’s this simple… inside a modern drill battery of dewalt, Milwaukee, hart, black and decker, and yes even Mikita, there are 5 18650 cells. Heavy cell when fully charged equals 4-4.2 vdc. They add up to be 20-21v dc. ALL of them are 20 v even Mikita said it on their own website. I went through all the comments of people trying to help you and almost every single time they give you advice you discount it. If you don’t want advice or explanation then don’t ask for it. These were trying to help you by explaining it to you and you acted like they didn’t know what they were talking about…… but they did. You were the one that didn’t know what he was talking about. Dewalt and the others claim 20v because they ARE 20v LOL.
when did milwakee start cheating and misleading customers? i took mine apart and had 10 18650 rated 2.0ah. should be a 4.0 not 5.0
Milwaukee uses 2500mAh cells mostly. So it's 5.0 roughly