What's Inside Fake M12 Batteries
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- Опубликовано: 8 фев 2025
- Let's pop open some of these knockoff Milwaukee M12 batteries and see what's inside.
M12 "3ah" 1.3 ah battery. Like I said in the video these packs are actually pretty good for what I use them for.
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M12 6ah battery.
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watching a Milwaukee being disassembled by a Dewalt....wars have been started over less
Lol he was out of batteries 😂
😂
That's was fun
Laughs maniacally in makita
LoL 😂👍🏻
I use both fake and real, and you basically nailed it, you can be lucky or unlucky with the fake ones. I have some fake batteries that perform the same as originals, others go flat straight away. The real ones always good - you pays your money you take your choice. I have never had good fake Dewalt only good fake Milwaukee batteries, for some reason.
Actually the latest Milwaukee angle grinder and batteries are naff, lucky if you get 10 minutes out of them, I stick to my DeWalt/ Black & Decker, last all day.
@@dogwalker666 Yes I have the 18V Dewalt XR angle grinder, which is useful for light work, I just use to an old blue Bosch corded (probably from the 1980's) in the workshop. I haven't tried Milwaukee's bat grinder. I think its pretty hard to get a battery grinder that is really in the same class to mains powered, but they are useful.
@@supatim1 indeed my 110v DeWalt 1100 rpm is a different beast entirely however the big power tool transformer is a pain to carry around the factory.
I agree, they are both batteries at the end of the day - both can fail at any time - to me, I get the M12/18 batteries from work but when buying I get the KO’s from Amazon, got (2) 4ah ($27) and (1) 9ah ($24) - and the largest battery for the M12 lineup is a 6ah LOL. Work great, no issues - can’t bare to pay those damn Milwaukee prices!
@@dogwalker666 I work with steel, cutting, grinding, shaping, etc. I have six 5" grinders including the 60v-1400w dewalt battery and a 1900w metabo corded.
The Dewalt flexvolt has proven a reliable beast for 4 years, still going, if you use 9/12ah batteries it lasts a fair while unless cutting thick plate and can function as a grinder preparing surfaces for welding, etc.
They upgraded the motor to 1800w a yr or two ago but until it dies I'll stick with what I've got.
The corded Metabo is the strongest 5" I've ever held, tears through steel like an oxy torch, but developed a fault and seems to be shorting after maybe 20hrs continuous use, might be the brushes.
The first battery grinder I owned 6yrs ago was a brushed dewalt, with 1.3ah batteries it could barely cut a single m16 stud flush with concrete before the battery ran out.
Milwaukee grinders are mostly gutless but I've recently been working with a new model with a superfast brake and a larger motor housing, its got some guts and if I were sticking with Milwaukee only thats what I'd get, its the 'rapidstop' battery grinder.
Dude you should be a voice actor, your voice would be perfect in so many roles. With or without the cold.
I always enjoy a van/truck tour. Interesting to see other guy’s setups.
That might be my next video 👍🏻
You can get battery chargers that you could put those raw cells in that would tell you the actual capacity and max amps. But that would require that you actually desolder the cells from the pack, and the charger/tester isn't super cheap. But if you're interested in pursuing this further, that's probably the way to go.
actually, you can get a charger pretty cheap that will tell the actual capacity and max amps. I vape and I use a Nitecore charger which does exactly that and only cost $30.00. Nitecore is pretty well known and respected brand when it comes to chargers and most vape shops and reviewers will recommend them mostly because we don't want our 18650s blowing up on us lol.
those are welded and not soldered.... breaking the welds and then trying to re-assemble them would be risky and I would not recharge or store a re-assembled pack in the house or shop.
@NonLegit Nation 2 what is the model plz? Thanks
@@zbcc12 Nitecore UMS2 charger
I have one that does this for $30, but frankly only the dumb ones can wake up dead batteries. Its handy for seeing if cells have capacity, but I only really use salvaged batteries for mice and keyboards.
Edit: im talking about ni-mh
Perfect breakdown. We aren’t curing cancer here and since you have all your fingers and no long thumb nails you get 10 points. I will have to deduct 2 points for the simple reason that no one is perfect!!
Carry on, I will be in the area all day.
😂😂
Poppycock! I'm a perfect 10! Alas, that is on the Richter scale...
The waitly batteries are actually pretty decent for the money. Project farm did a great video on them and they tested the closest to the OEM batteries used.
I have about 8 Waitleys. A couple have died and they promptly replaced them
One thing I found with some knock off 18v Makita batteries was that they didn't have any balancing circuitry. Definitely a fire hazard because li-ion doesn't handle charging in series very well.
I have plenty of both genuine and fake Makita and i can't tell the difference in power, toughness, or performance. Both fail and break when dropped at the same rate. I haven't seen any without balancing circuitry.
@@stevemckewen1046your capping so fuckin hard that you look like Abraham lincoln.
I have been using a Milwaukee Toughshell jacket for 3 seasons now, it came with one 2.0 M12 battery that works fine.
Bought two knock off 2.5 M12's for $40 CAD. Up here at the time they were asking $80 CAD for one replacement 2.0 M12 original.
Must have got lucky because my knock offs are holding up. They actually last a bit longer than the OG battery (because they are more Mah).
Good luck to everyone shopping.
I'm in the home gamer space with the ryobi tools, but have found it helps to just dig through reviews and find ones that seem like people say they last as long, or nearly as long as the real ones. You'll hear about it on the ones that are trash. For what it's worth, for the people that hate on ryobi, My 20+ year old tools all still work as good as they did new. They probably won't hold up as well if you like to use your drill as a hammer, but if you use it as a drill or a saw as a saw, they last just as long as any of the pro-summer brands. The 20 year old drills got used hard the first 5 years of their life, driving 3 inch drywall screws and pulling them back out building sets for stage plays back in the days before 1/4" impacts were common place.
no worries, your explanations were very good...i actually learned a bit
The higher discharge rate on the aftermarket 6ah battery is a huge plus. You'll get more cycles out of that battery vs the Milwaukee 6ah. Heat kills batteries, and lithium ion is so much more sensitive to that than the old nicads we grew up using.
The slight discrepancy in capacity between the two is because higher discharge rate requires thicker materials for carrying current. There's only so much "oof-da" you can fit in a can, so there's always a trade off between capacity and discharge rate, even with the highest quality components.
Love the channel btw and keep up the good work.
That was my little bit of experience with the knockoff Milwaukee 3ah, it seemed to go the distance, but one drop on the floor and the casement broke between the top and bottom packs. For the proce difference, I'd be fine buying the cheap 1.5 packs, but lesson learned on the bigger ones, became i know that my tools will take tumbles, so the genuine seems like its worth the money.
Keep in mind... no matter which brand you get, if you drop em in the tool from much more than hip height, the battery won't survive...
My 3, 4,6Ah milwaukees do not survive a drop from a ladder...
I agree. I’ve dropped my drill from a good 20’ and it landed on the drill and survived. But I’ve dropped the same drill from the top of a ten foot ladder and it landed on the battery. That time the battery broke
The Waitley high capacity batteries are a good value for use with lights and such. Others have found that they do seem to have about the same amp hours as the real Milwaukee. Definitely not the best to use with your main tools. Good video.
I have used both my Milwaukee 4AH M12 packs and the 5AH HO packs in my M12 impact guns Abe I’ve got to say the difference in performance is substantial. I actually took all my 4AH batteries home and replaced them with the 5AH packs.
I think general rule with "genuine" vs. "third party" is that genuine is always better 1:1, but other compatible batteries are usually 75% as good. So math is simple - if you can get 3x third party batteries for the same price as single original, then you will be better off. As well in my experience I have both something like 6AH battery for price of 3AH and if our math still applies then the outcome is quite obvious.
In short as long as "fake" batteries are significantly cheaper, they usually represents good value.
Unless the fake batteries catch your house on fire and cost you much more than a genuine battery.
I won't buy or use the knockoffs... Simply for safety reasons. I know a little about electricity, and I know that you don't go messing with mixing different components and numbers together and expect it to work SAFELY...
that's for the health of YOU, your belongings and the tool.
Anyways...I got a deal on
3 M12 HO 5.0 batts.
Paid $210 for the 3, at Home Depot, to ensure warranty.
That means ya get 1 free battery!!! 🔋🎉
And it's a 5.0ah so it's not the weakest battery, still get worthwhile usage out of it.
I wanna get at least 1 of the 8.0ah, for the high consumption tools like the saws...
I still have to get into M18 yet...for the chainsaw!
Maybe after I spend a couple grand on M12 stuff!!😂
Thanks!
Thank you sir 🙏🏻
@@FunkFPV Please don't "sir" me,
I have been a forklift driver for over 17 years of my life.
I know how to appreciate the job you do.
Keep it up. I see I'm not the only one who thinks you're worth a visit.
11:10 You couldn't be more wrong. It is incredibly common for cells to be mislabeled. They are very low quality cells that have a fake wrap on them with fake specifications. You will NEVER get 500 charge cycles out of them and they can catch fire. That is the real risk. Though there isn't nearly as much energy in these cells as an ebike battery, the fire is still very hot and energetic enough to catch other things on fire. Putting the battery fire out is near impossible. I charge mine in an old frying pan and never leave them plugged in when I am not around. That way if they catch fire, I can grab the pan and run outside.
Sounds to me like you may have already experienced a battery fire ? Can't say I have ever seen one myself. I can imagine it could get quite violent rather quickly. And yes, near impossible to put out.
@@Enter-a-name55 No, I have just heard about them a lot.
@@Enter-a-name55 Yeah it happens very quickly, it's over very quickly (if nothing else catches alight) and there is barely anything left when it's over. Just a heap of black soot and the copper terminals remains. I had a pack with 3 cells in parallel combust which left a dent in the wall and scorched the timber floor boards. Except for the thud of it hitting the wall it was near silent, just giving off a hissing sound that you wouldn't be able to hear from the next room as it self destructed.
@tarstarkusz he was not claiming that Batteries are never mislabeled. He was claiming that batteries which are not visible to the consumer are almost never mislabeled. That they usually only bother to mislabel the batteries if you can see them without destructively disassembling the pack.
i had a coworker that had a knockoff vape battery explode in his pocket while we were talking and had to be rushed to a burn center, he was out for a long time and had to get skin graphs. they think it overheated being in his pocket.
"I'm getting all scientific & all but basically the more stuff they jam into it, the higher the capacity....". Lol, I'm glad you pointed out your gravitation toward "techspeak".i feel less self conscious for having to draw out a diagram to translate. 😁😁😁
I do feel a bit sheepish, however, amidst all these comments that don't mention ryobi at all, in admitting to using them almost exclusively, even upgrading to the 4 & 6 ah batts & been perfectly satisfied w the results. But I'm curious if anyone has any experience w them & can gimme their opinion, my having no basis of comparison.
I have a couple knockoff Craftsman V20 6amp batteries, I haven’t really noticed a difference between authentic and knockoff. I use them in my lawn care equipment and I’m impressed with how much use I get out of them per charge.
always a treat watching you, funk. thanks for posting
Thanks for watching 👍🏻
Ive used waitley for a few years in my drill and driver. Based on testing over at project farm. No complaints.
People always talk about recharge cycles. I have batteries since 2016 that are still fine after lots of daily use. Nice video showing the truth!
Very good explanation of this, if you were handy soldering you could probably rebuild using new cells but as you mentioned, they sell knock off cells anyway, if like you and you depend on the tool you could get whichever ones you want. At the end of the day it's what you rely on and if you can claim stuff back through taxes, do what you feel. Nice video 👍
You don't want to solder on these. You use a spot welder so they don't have time to heat up too much. They sell tools for it, or if you're being cheap, there's folks on the tubes here that will show you how to do it with a car battery.
@@johngaltline9933umm... wouldn't a spot welder send a power spike straight through the battery and the balancing cirquit, frying both spectacularily in the process...?
@@SonsOfLorgar the ones for batteries usually use four small “spots” the power flows from two to the other two. You only weld one pole of the battery at a time, so the power only goes through the welder. Typically you weld metal strips to the batteries then attach them to the circuits.
The circuitry is usually for battery balancing. Nice vid!
Informative and interesting as usual. Also, thanks for the positivity of your t shirt, I'm sure someone out there needs to hear that.
👍🏻
I’m just a DIY guy, but I got two 4ah batteries and a fast charger from Kobalt for $63 plus tax. The platform has the tools I need and I love the clearance deals I can get on their tools.
From personal experience. I had the m18 5ah knockoff when I first started my job. I used it on the framing nailer and my 1/2 inch mid torque. There is a noticeable difference. Not as much peak power. They basically run how a authentic battery runs when it's at half charged or one the last bar. The nailer cycles quicker and sounds happier with the authentic battery. I gave it to a new guy that started just to get him going but i told him to buy the real deal once he could afford it
When I have ready access to a charger, a lighter battery is valuable to me. Thanks for the info!
The fake battery packs also tend not to have the overcharge protection that keeps them from melting down if you leave them on the charger
Same with low voltage protection to keep the cells from draining too much.
@@Green_Expedition_Drgn I think the undervolt protection, with M12 Milwaukee anyway is actually in the tool (I was told the way to tell is the battery indicator is on the tool not the battery)
I definitely don’t let those knock offs charge if I’m not in the same room.
@@FunkFPV sounds like trust issues to me.
Got me some M18's for Christmas and they kick ass so far!
Bro when you opened that battery and looked at it like uh well I'm no BigClive 😂 I laughed so hard my stomach hurts now. 😂😂
I wish I knew half what that guy does about electronics.
@Funk FPV he's a genius when it comes to electronics for sure!
As it is most of the time with fake stuff, the reason that someone says they're great and someone says they're crap, is because some of them are crap and some of them are great, and most people has a sample of just a few, or just one.
Its always a gamble buying fake stuff from cheap chinese shops, doubly so with batteries. you might get a good one you might get a bad one. but even worse you can get one that seems good and works good for months before it burns your house down.
Out of curiosity we bought a few aftermarket M18 batteries in work. There was one brand called Waitley which had the exact same Samsung cells inside as the Milwaukee. Still going strong too a couple of years later. And they were pretty cheap
I agree 💯 with the not being treated like a bio hazard for getting a cold
This video reminds me of AvE's videos. You even got the same mat that he uses.
That's why I like ur content cause actually learn things.
Waitley is actually a great brand for aftermarket batteries. I’ve been very happy with my 6ah. Over a year and it still works great. Actually outlasting one of my m12’s
ive been using both cheap and oem batteries even bought the 9amp hr ones so far had no issues
Knew there was a reason i loved your videos. A fellow lefty there 👏
22 a day! Great shirt! Wonderful message.
Truck tour would be neat!
Looks like the channel is doing gr8! Congrats brother!!
I bought a pair of the Amazon 9.0AH batteries once, one of them had no chooch but I noticed they had less power by far on my M12 fuel 1/2" drill with a M12 6.0AH. I returned them and haven't been back. Use the knockoff batteries if you want but real batteries aren't that expensive if you shop for them. Home Depot site always has some sort of deal on them.
"Some type of circuitry on top, looks good."
I guess I'll have to agree with that.
It would be nice if you could take a closer look at the circuitry. See if both balance charge the cells. Cheap batteries might not have a BMS and just have over discharge protection and temp control.
My bro invested into the Milwaukee m12 ecosystem. The tools are genuinely impressive. The batteries on the other hand... Those stupid little plastic clips that hold the batteries in will break after about 5 uses in any kind of tool that puts any impact on them.
They'll still work... Until you throw them across the room out of frustration because they keep disconnecting.
Ive had good luck with the vanon brand m12 and m18 batteries they work great
hope you get better soon! Also the comedy of a dewalt taking apart a Milwaukee lol
😜👍🏻
You are so appreciated.... weather you know it or not....
I have bought a few of the generic batteries over the years. I'm a reseller, usually focusing on tools, so I have to keep atleast 1 type of each battery in stock to test. So the one i get have been fine, BUT, I obviously don't use them every day.
Your shirt helped my day
I really appreciate the info, keep it up!
1000 or 300 cycles is not the cycling capacity, it's only the cycles they tested to. Granted the no name will likely yield less cycles, but this number isn't really a comparison. They usually say something like "no more than 20% degradation at 300 cycles". This isn't the end of the battery, just what they test to. BAK batteries aren't tier 1 or 2, but close. They (BAK) have been used in IBM laptops, etc. They are a name brand vs the cheesy 1.3Ah batteries.
Ive gotten plenty of the larger DeWalt generics and a couple 6ah M18 and I've actually disassembled a few of them. They are mostly fine, perhaps not quite as durable. The wires inside are thinner and more delicate. I had to replace the wires in one after dropping it. The cells though seem to be all the same with the round cell type. I haven't seen any generic powerstack style batteries to test.
When it comes to the ultrafire cells/batteries, they're not *actually* bad - the cells are just made for low current high capacity. The greater mass/volume of the cells usually correlates to lower power density, but higher discharge rate, assuming same cell quality; this is because more metal at each end = more current = more weight, but the storage capacity is a trade-off.
Great video. I know the Samsung cells are very reliable (been using them for years). I personally wouldn’t cheap out on batteries as I use the stubby impacts (lots of vibration). Not sure how they would hold up. I wouldn’t want 6x18650 cells to self destruct in my hand.
I’ve been using the knock off batteries going on a year with all my M12 tools including my stubby impact and 1/2 hammer drill all with good results. I have two 6.0 and two 7.0 plus four 3.5 all knock offs. The only original Milwaukee batteries I own are the three 1.5 ones that came with my tools these originals I use exclusively in my heated jackets. I purchased all eight of the knockoffs for the price of one original 6.0 so I can’t complain.
Yup. Samsung, LG, and Emrin are the only 18650 battery manufacturers that I trust. Cost a tad bit more, but they last way longer and I've never had an issue with them. And a few dollars is worth not dealing with a lithium fire in my opinion
I think most aftermarket batteries are a step down from the factory versions, but some have protection circuits and decent cells.
There are some aftermarket batteries with upgraded cells vs the factory cells. If you upgrade a 5 or 6ah Makita 18v with top of the line cells, it becomes a much better power source.
I have 4 m12 batteries. 2 brand-name, 2 generic. I have 2 that hold a charge and have full power. Of the other two, the Milwaukee one doesn't run full power but will hold a charge. The bad off-brand will run at a higher amps, but only for about 5 minutes.
(Just now realizing that this reads like a math problem from a textbook 😂)
Love the Milwaukee being torn apart by the dewalt😂
I bought a chinese 3ah battery for a dewalt from the flea market, and it lasted me 3 years. For 45 bucks, not bad, but then I got a milwaukee sawzall and m18 impact driver, and I like the feel, and power better than the dewalt. I honestly think both are great brands, they both have good and crap products.
Though the genuine Milwaukee batteries are expensive, especially the big ones like the 12amp m18, I prefer to stick with them as (like you said) their performance and construction is reliable. I also don’t want to risk my tools and chargers with knock off batteries, if the power spikes and they damage the motor or catch on fire I’m sure Milwaukee has a way to know that you used unapproved batteries and therefore would deny any warranty claim, Milwaukee might not even let you pay them to fix the tool. I know how my Milwaukee batteries hold up to extreme cold and heat, both in storage and in use, but it’s a gamble how the knock offs will perform especially since you can’t rely on them using the same internals as the last one you bought from them!
I run Milwaukee and Dewalt and have been quite happy with their performance and longevity and have never had a problem with my tools due to batteries so, regardless of savings I will not put an off brand battery in my tools and chargers.
I picked up a suspiciously cheap M12/6.0 off ebay fully expecting it to be a counterfeit (which it was), but it's VERY well done and I wasn't totally sure if it was maybe a "fell off the truck" retail pack until I opened it up and saw the usual blue-sleeved generic cells. It was in a very convincing retail bubble pack and the only outward sign it was fake was the label stamping on the back of the pack didn't have quite the right font for "M12", it looks like it was squished a tiny bit, and has slightly blurry edges versus the consistent sharpness of the real stamping. I kinda think it would pass well enough to be accepted as a return at a retail store on a busy day, so watch out...if it doesn't look quite right it's more likely a fake than just a variance in production. I would be livid if I paid ~$180 at HD for a fakie with junk cells that costs $35.
I haven't put it through any real use yet and I've never had good luck with those blue cells performing anywhere close to the label spec, but given the price I could buy legit cells from a legit supplier to rebuild the pack and it'd still cost less than half of what big red charges.
I might see if I can source just the plastics from one of the usual CN suppliers and build a grip of my own packs, guessing the little BMS modules are also something that can be found loose on the CN sites.
Truck tour would be kool.
The problem with the fakes is that they're usually using cells recycled from old laptop batteries, etc, and some could be on their last few cycles.
Laptop batteries use 18650s that are not designed for high current draw, they are designed for higher capacity at the expense of lower C value (current availability) opposed to the 18650s used in tool batteries which are higher C but slightly lower capacity...
@@T2D.SteveArcs Indeed, but the suppliers of these cheap fakes don't really care.
@@EddieTheH 😂👍
@@T2D.SteveArcs These things are not designed for high current draw either.
@@tarstarkusz laptop batteries usually have a C rating of 1 C so the maximum current you can draw from a 2800mah laptop cell (or series string of said cells ) is 2.8A.. tool cells generally have a much higher C rating of 10 to 25 C so if we had a high current 10 C 2500mah cell (or series string of cell) we can safely draw a continuous 25A , battery powered tools are generally high current draw devices hence laptop batteries are not suitable as they are usually made up of a couple of series strings of cells or sometimes just one string.
If a tool has 1 string of 10 18650s (36v) nominal battery and the tool pulls 25A you would have to use 10 C 2500mah cells because all cells in a series chain "see" the same current draw if you were to a another identical series string in parallel to the first then you could get away with 5 C cells as each cell would then "see" 12.5A draw.
I got a painful lesson in using cheap ChiComm knockoff batteries. I bought a B&D drill battery made by ChiComms off Amazon. Charged with it and was removing screws which were not overly tight. After about 30 seconds of use the battery exploded! Hit my knee hard enough to break the skin through my jeans. Lesson learned.
Dude I started smoking again just so I can sound like you! You rock!
I think it was torque test channel that did a video on this. The milwaukee lasted longer between charges, and the milwaukee sends alot more power to your tool. The torque output was alot more , also the milwaukee batteries talk to the tools, so it runs cooler and more efficient.
So, you're saying Milwaukee batteries are tool whisperers? Interesting.
@@1pcfred yes shhhhh lol
Good video man, I always stick to the authentic tho their cost what they cost, at least you know what your dealing with
The only problem with assessing initially by weight is that some SOB's cheat.
Got a no-name Chinesium charger for my hell phone, one failed at the outset, a replacement sent by Amazon and it remains working well.
The defective unit was a no return deal, so I dismantled it. Capacitor failure, took out fuse components, not really worth the time repairing, but notable was there was a great honking steel weight inside of the unit for no mechanical or electrical reason, it just quadrupled the weight of the charger.
Given the continued failure free operation of its replacement for over two years continuously, I'll call the failure a one off. The great honking iron weight, confounding. I have a spare on hand, given this one's performance, I ordered and tested a spare for future usage.
Aw, c'mon. You know it's a Battery Management System (BMS), with a themal probe for temperature sensing. Great content, well explained. Interesting channel. 👍
If you want to DIY swap cells in a tool battery, Get R/C model/drone or airsoft battery cells as they are also high draw batteries.
Like the reviews, are you planning another drone video-I liked the last one.
Big Clive meets Big Funk
The wiring you showed is correct, but not exactly how they are wired together.
Instead of two series packs paralleled together, they pair each cell in parallel, then series the pairs.
I always see you on shorts, but now my first video is here 🎉
"Heavy's good! Heavy's reliable!" Boris The Bullet Dodger!
I see you too are a man of good taste, watching BigClive I mean!
I can't say much about the knock off M12 batteries, as I only have 2 genuine M12 batteries that I use in a 3/8 impact gun and a 1/2 right angle impact. I have had good luck with knock off M18 batteries from a company called PowerExtra, on Amazon. I got 2 6Ah batteries for $93CAD, and have been using them in my high torque 1/2 drive impact, 5" grinder, and a compact drill/driver set, all of which are brushless. They have done well for over a year now. That said, there is nothing like an authentic M18 8Ah in the grinder, and a 12Ah in the big impact! Expensive as fuck, but sure lasts a long time, and gobs of torque! Oh, I should also mention I used the knock off 6Ah batteries in the Milwaukee chainsaw. Did not go well! Great for the drill driver set though.
Have a great day, Sir! And God Bless! o7
Hmm, the cannibal in me wonders if he taste good too!
Some of the knockoffs you actually have to take the plastic sleeve off the batteries to see the printing on the cell. Not all are like that but they sometimes re sleeve them and lie about the brand, and will use old batteries of a good quality but they’re old.
I have a few fake m12 batteries and they're working good still after a year
I believe the 6 battery packs are setup in 3 parallel pairs in series.
Babe Funk just uploaded 🗣
Charge/discharge cycles of 300 opposed to 1000 is quite significant. Being someone who uses battery tools until the batteries are shot this would be significant to me. Secondary to that of course would be the AH rating and the max amps that can be drawn.
The orginal datasheet from samsung tels 300 cycle life for 15A discharge.
@@bc-nr5tj Interesting. I've noticed that not only with the samsungs, but also other better named brands that they're touting 1000 cycles on their datasheets in newer cells.
I would say the knockoff batteries are probably good for some of those miscellaneous accessories, such work lights, speakers, etc. Stuff that you don't really need that high discharge rate for and just need something with capacity for run time.
I'll use anything, but for people who charge their batteries in the house I reckon it's worth paying for genuine stuff with good overheat protection that was tested before it went on sale!
Great video, one suggestion at 9:57 you said 4 batteries instead of 3
Those Ultrafire batteries and flashlights are actually pretty good for what you pay for.
I bought a 2 pack of ryobi 18v knockoff batteries. I only fully charged twice and then was junk and the second lasted a couple months. But I took em apart and a genuine battery apart and they didn't have half the circuts inside them or have the capacity they were said to have.
Funk and TTC should get together and go bowling.
I check in on his videos before I buy any power tools.
TTC?
If I have low draw tools that I'm not beating up and I want to keep a battery in them like flashlights or maybe a quarter inch impact things like that knockoffs aren't bad, but those that work in construction and maybe dropping or being really hard on their batteries / high empire draw tools I'm sure it's not worth the money because you'd be burning through them in the warranties worth it to have on the name brand, for the most part if you can catch really good deals through Lowe's or Home Depot on their sales it's just best to get the name brand batteries
Ive had the 9-6 ah waitley for years now ive actually sent in severl real Milwaukee batteries in and the only problems ive found with the waitley is the case its not as tough and you drop it its over so keep them in raidios lights and compressors
You could just add some rubber tape to your cheap batteries too.
ive had good luck with the knockoff m12 batteries. but i also expect them to fail every time i use them lol. i did have bad luck with a brand new m12 6.0 that had the lead to the lower cells break after light use. but for the 50 i spent on 4 knockoffs if one last 6 months i am cool with my purchase. i abuse most my lower amp hour m12s they make good soft hammers lmao i have considered purchasing individual cells and the knock off shells and making my own.
If you end up overcharging the knock-off batteries you may start getting called _Fire McGilliCuddy._ There ya go. 👍 🤭
LoL 😝
This is great information for a pro, but misleading for the weekend warriors. I'm a pro, 3rd generation carpenter and use Dewalt (mostly). So when it was time to take my father in law out to buy himself so power tools, I knew there was only one place to take him....Harbor Frieght of course. For him to buy Dewalt would be like my mom buying a Lamborghini.
my waitley m12 3ah really ended up being 2.8ah cells, fairly good for the money.
Yes, more, please!
I wish Milwaukee had a 9 ah m12 battery. It would really make the m12 vacuum a lot better
Wes could you heat up the thermisistor and see if and when it disables the output ? Cheers
Steve
Not a bad idea 👍🏻
@@FunkFPV You can check if a hot (or very cold) thermistor disables the charger. Some knockoff batteries just fake the signal and will always charge. BTW, ya should've weighed the cells after pulling the casings off...
@@FunkFPV 👍
parallel circuit = add amp hours together ( bigger battery capacity)
series circuit= add voltages together but same amp hour rating as one battery
You pointed out one major failure point for aftermarket batteries. The construction. They dont take a drop very well compared to the factory batteries. The plastic is definitely lesser quality, and the construction is sometimes lacking.
The BMS/thermal protection is what worries me with knock offs. A replacement garage is far more expensive than the price difference lol