We Test the Festool TS 55 REQ Plunge Track Saw
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- Опубликовано: 17 окт 2024
- Episode 70 ~ Festool TS 55 REQ Plunge Track Saw
The best plunge-cut saw Festool have ever built says Festool but how good is this saw.
Slimline housing for maximum flexibility and close proximity to the wall (12 mm)
Angle adjustment with undercut function from -1 to 47°
Transparent sliding viewing window provides a good view of the scribe mark and saw blade
Guide wedge for safer work and simple positioning in existing joint
Main areas of use:
Precise circular in materials up to 55 mm thick
Cutting interior doors to length using guide rail and circular saw
Manufacturing expansion joints in parquet flooring and false joints
Cutting chipboard to size
Cutting and processing plasterboard
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A heads up on any track saw and track. When making that first initial cut through the splinter guard it's advisable to do the shallowest possible cut. Then a bit deeper on the 2nd pass and then a final pass to finish. If you go to full depth or try to cut in one pass you'll see it get stretched. That will make the splinter guard strip slightly too short. Not much but it will be short.
Good tip. We will cover that point in the track saw head to head
Nice job. The reason that most people get into festool is because of this saw, it's a system that you end up buying into the ts55 works as a table saw with the cms that aslo turns into a router table and the track works with the router and jigsaw etc. Festool make things changeable as a system. You should also check out the mft for cross cutting and the parallel guides for repetitive cuts.
Great video, just purchased one and used mine but there still seems to be a lot of dust coming from the front end. With extraction on. Not sure if this is correct but not overly impressed by festools dustless claims!
Nice one mate I have just bought on after using my brother. Great saws
I love these reviews, I always learn so much.
Thanks Joe we also learn a lot from the comments. User experience is crucial
Interested to see how it compares to the DeWalt in weight, smoothness and ease of pushing along the track. First time I used my dad's DeWalt I didn't engage kick back protection properly and it flew back towards my foot - a bit scary. Does the festool have kick back protection?
I'm in the market for a plunge saw of my own. Only ever considered DeWalt but now I'd like to compare with festool.
Just bought one of these...fantastic tool, should have bought it much earlier. Anyway, thanks for the review...very clear and "to the point" .
Very good presentation. I have the older festool plunge saw. I like the new model but will choose the cordless version. I believe the 2 batteries have more power than the corded version. Only thing you will need to run the vacuum on manual. I like how you mention to avoid using other market blades. I bought a different type blade to cut hard woods. So I ended getting new plastic strips where the saw blade runs. The biggest problem I have in Australia is the plastic strips always peel away like it is seen on the makita rail track. I have changed the strips numerous times and even kept the fences upside down. To no avail the strips come away. The hotter climate may have something to do with this. I find that as long as your workbench is straight and the material is straight, the fence won't move. Otherwise using the clamps will be advisable. I have managed to do a lot of work with the rail system and plunge saw from trimming down doors to scribing in sheet goods. Im a plasterer but have made my own furniture and also done jobs for clients on many different tasks and at a professional level. In fact the carpenters sometimes working on the site with me like my equipment.
Thanks Ronald
I have the peeling strips problem too. Maybe someone out there knows the glue to use
You can get a bluetooth battery which is remarkably easy to set up and it will turn on the vacuum for you when the saw is on. You have to get the bluetooth module on your festool vacuum but honestly it's a freaking time and back saver like crazy so you should get one regardless! I don't have to bend over to turn it on anymore, I just click it from the hose end to turn on and off. To set up the bluetooth battery though just click the button on the module and turn on the tool, it syncs just like that and is now synced whenever you use that battery on that tool again.
Nice review of a great saw. I have the cordless version which is very handy in some situations. I also have the Bosch equivalent - several years old now but still a tool that I use very regularly for accurate cutting. Look at the Mafell range too - very very good and highly developed and accurate. Spoilt for choice is the truth of the matter.
Thanks Peter. Just when you think you have arrived in the bright sunlit uplands you find Mafell!
Can you please show the difference how the cut looks with and without the rail on a material that tends to break out?
Good request. I didn't think of it but it would be good and with and without the extra splinter guard.
Great video, I just picked up my first Festool the TS55.
Good review Roger, quite expensive, but by all accounts, it's a very accurate saw. How is it for dust; is it thrown out the back and sides if the hose isn't fitted?
Thanks Mark we will check that out and put the answer in part 2 of this test.
whats the most important difference between REQ and REBQ ? I consifer getting ts55, but for me its hard to stand on the right side of the saw when cutting. I prefer standing on the left side so i think it can be a little tricky with this rail system. Thanks for respond.
The REQ is 110Volt and the REBQ is 240v and has an electronic brake. I don't know why the 110 can't be braked in the same way but someone will tell us.
No plans to make a left hander yet. One day the left handed lobby will invoke a discrimination law and everything will change.
Rog the reason for the transformer you use is not that 110V cant kill you (or anyone else) its to isolate the ground return path if there is a fault on the tool and some parts become live. That's because normally ground and neutral are connected together, here the neutral return path for the current gets 'isolated'. But if you touch both terminals from the xformer, or power cord, the 110V will cause enough current to passing through you that could probably will be lethal. Hope that makes sense.
Thanks for that. I will feed that information into part 2 . The only thing I don't understand is that the live current would go to ground through your body rather than back up the line so where is the advantage. This electricity is complicated stuff.
The basic principal is that the electricity needs a path back to the source to start flowing, a closed loop / circuit. With normal house wiring in most cases where there is a fault that can be ground because the ground is connected to the neutral, its together called the PEN (Protective Earth Neutral) conductor, the neutral is the path back the source at the suppliers transformer. With an Isolation transformer there is no PEN Conductor, neither of the conductors are tied to Earth, you could be standing bare foot on a wet floor and touch one of the conductors coming out of the transformer and current wont flow because there is no return path, only when you touch both will there be a problem, hence the one hand rule.
Although its quite straight forward, Its taken me a while to get clarity on this (and I am an Elec Eng) there is not much clarity or understanding of this, its shrouded in alienating terminology, even amongst electricians few can say why an isolation transformer is supposed to be safe, they taught to follow the codes and not really think about it.
I think it really worth while for anyone working with power tools or appliances to get a basic understanding of this, its not rocket science.
I reckon rocker science is a tad easier than this but I will read it a few more times and it will be there.
Like a bird on a wire to quote Leonard Cohen.
Lets try look an example, not that I claiming to knowing it all in this regards, but I think I have it figured.
Take a toaster with a chrome casing. The external conductive surface should be connected to the earth conductor. The plug circuit feeding this should have a RCD/ELPD. Lets say the heating element goes south and shorts against the metal case, now there is a path for the current to flow back to the souce via the earth conductor. The RCD/ELPD should then detect that not all the current is returning via the neutral, and will open the circuit in milliseconds.
But lets say the case is not connected to Earth conductor and you touch it. You are barefoot on a wet kitchen floor, now there is a path back the source via your body and the mass of the earth to the earth rod at the suppliers xformer or point of supply. Once again the RCD/ELP should detect that not all the current is flowing back to the source via the neutral conductor and will open the circuit and save your life. That's assuming its working.
Now if the toaster was supplied via an isolation/safety xformer, you might get a tingle by touching the chromed toaster surface which is now live. but there is no path for the current to flow batch to the source on that circuit (the secondary side of the xformer) via your body since the neutral is not connected to the earth at any point. But you could stick a finger from your other hand in the toaster and touch the other side of the broken element to complete the circuit, then your heart will most certainly start those fatal fibrillations.
That is a great explanation. It makes me love my transformer a little rather than seeing it as a pain in the arse to cart around.
Love the features but it looks and sounds very "plasticy", like a minor bump would crack the mouldings. Does it actually feel stronger in real life?
I wouldn't say it is made for chucking around but Festool owners don't tend to be rough. As I said it wouldn't be my site saw but if you take the bottoms off doors or want a good alternative to a table saw it is good.
No, it's very solid. You see these used in the workplace all the time.
It's a really good plungesaw, I have one, but if you compare with Mafell it's another historic.... nice video anyway thanks.
Nice Rodger
What is the power out let, is it 220 or 120?
4 years later and still no proper Milwaukee plunge saw....!
Great review as always Roger. Love my ts55 with the midi extractor work together so well. Festool do a standard circular saw now that runs on the same rails as the plunge saw.
Thanks Alan
I didn't know about the standard saw running on the rail. BTW Bosch do a gizmo that is designed to adapt their circular saws for use on rails or tracks as Festool call them.
+Skill Builder I think it's called the hkc 55 there's an 18v version to.
+Skill Builder Makita do an adapter also. I use my big snorter with an 18' rail.
Now you mention it I remember seeing it when I went to their training school but I forgot about it. Put it down to old age.
Might be a really stupid question but is it brushless or ? sorry if you already answered that question :)
SKÅL !
I doubt it's an induction motor. Doesn't make sense for a power tool like this.
No it isn't an induction motor. The cordless one is brushless (induction)
I had several problems with the Makita guide rail when I joined them, they were not all the same. That
Makita guide rail claims to have accuracy but is a lie.
Great work, very useful....
Thanks Jeff
Great review thanks!
Thank you Ali
got one, love it
great review,thx
Glad you liked it.
04:37 But, *Steven* . You have to put the darn thing back into the box, otherwise there will be *no* unboxing. See? ;-P
It's more expensive than my Bosch 12" axial slider. Can make my own guide with a bit of plywood for my circular saw. Status symbol just like a stiletto hammer.
until you use it. then you will think differently.
Most site will not allow you to make a plywood guide.
If you close your eyes ,than it,s almost like you hear Jason Statham talking.
I never knew about the 110/240 thing in the UK. That would suck ass.
Yep it is a pain. In America you have the 110 on everything and it is a good system. Do you have RCD trip switches as well?
There's a new erbauer plunge saw in screwfix atm its cheap aswell, haven't seen anyone using one yet nd haven't seen any reviews on it, anyone got one?
It would be interesting to try it.The Triton one is good if you want something cheap.
informative review! i hope you didn't hang that tool board yourself Roger '-)
see Ave's vid "dirty secrets on a 1000 dollar saw"
Seen it , and its very enlightening
It's the most biased anti festool video I have ever seen. the reality is that they invented track saws, every workman I know has one and swears by them. I have thousands if hours of use on mine and it still works like new and still as accurate.
+Nevets the title gives away how biased he is, it's a $500 saw not $1000.
Nevets He bought it for 1000... Maybe Canadian. No Idea. But that was some time ago when it was new
He has contacted some people, many have said that their saws had the exact sme failure poimt he predicted. I mean there is no excuse when my black and Decker (I am studying electrical engineering. Woodworking is just a small side hobby that I follow thoroughly) has better materials than that saw.
And he didnt just focus on the negatives, he said lots of good stuff... Before he took it apart.
But ofcourse, any hate is bias. Go ahead buddy, you get the festool seal of approval for being a blind fanboy
Nevets I bet you baby your tools hard... A proper saw shouldn't get busted just from a 10 cm drop... The festool would...
ahem, bit late. lol. good vid
NEVER this rubish again on my hands !!!!