Re-numbering and Weathering a Union Pacific SD40-2
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- Опубликовано: 11 июл 2024
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Along with the Rock Island SD40-2, I received two more N-scale locomotives from Florent as a commission to add to his fleet. This locomotive is also an exercise in SD40-2 weathering, but is under the full yellow and grey of Union Pacific. This time around, I needed to completely re-number this N-Scale intermountain locomotive, which also included re-positioning the new road number.
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Keywords:
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Хобби
So what do you consider an "ideal" level of weathering?
I think the ideal amount of weathering depends on a few variables. They include the age of the locomotive or freight car, how much it got used in its life time, what it was used for, where it was used, and how well it was taken care of. I think newer pieces, a year or less old, should be weathered enough to show usage but not yet show abuse. Then the amount of weathering and abuse applied to the pieces should progress consistently with age and usage from there. So my ideal level of weathering would be a mixture and show up on the layout as a small amount of weathering to looking like it should be in the scrap yard rather than on the rails. 👍
One of the things I have been wanting to do is to show how "weathering" can also be done to a car or locomotive that is factory fresh. The main thing is creating the illusion of size. I have a Scaletrains ES44AC that I am wanting to keep pretty new looking, but it still needs something to make it look more realistic.
@@JCsRiptrack Just needs to look like it's got some road dust on it and nothing more.
@@williambryant5946 At best... although shiny surfaces, a careful pinwash to give a sense of size, and perhaps a bit of a matte coat on walkways. Oh, and some fresh grease on the wheels. If rolling stock, the wheels will still have oxidization on their facing, because well, the facings will do that unless specifically protected with something. I recently watched a video that shows trucks that are even a day or two old starting to show the telltale red-brown tinge.
Are we doing a Santa Fe F running on the Super Chief in the late 50's or a Rock Island GP in the late 70's? The Santa Fe keep it's crack passenger equipment near spotless so a bit of light dust on the undercarriage and a bit of exhaust staining on the roof would be appropriate. On the other hand The Rock in the late 70's was on it's last legs was deferring maintenance and their equipment was so filthy and tired it was difficult to make out the road names. Very subjective question. I model the C&IM in the 60's. They were sticklers for shopping their power and even when the paint got faded they were seldom dirty other than dirt and mud kicked up below the walkways. Their rolling stock either hauled coal and looked it or flower out of a big mill. The hoppers and gondolas were filthy the boxcars hauling flower were clean but always has a dusting of flower from damaged bags. Best thing is study, study, study.
UP 9890 was an ex-MOPAC non-dynamic braked SD40-2. It also had a brake ratchet as opposed to a brake wheel and the MOPAC units had their air tanks moved a little forward as they had fuel fillers at the front and rear of their fuel tanks
Nice work! The UP trucks stopped getting "silver" (ALUMINUM) paint not long after the merger with MoPac, so the base color for the sideframes was probably HarborMist Gray, but over the years many older units' trucks get so dirty and rusty that it is hard to verify what color they once were. I agree with your statement about washes over Armour Yellow - light brown or lgray work the best. It took me some time to learn that, but it has proven very helpful. For years I couldn't understand why my yellow boxcars looked so cruddy compared to other cars, then I finally learned to stop using black as my shading/washing color. Things look much better these days. Black is reserved for small shadows where I am too lazy to remove cast on ladders from freight cars. Thanks for these recent project videos. I don't usually go heavy on weathering my locomotives (when a locomotive represents a $200 - 300 investment it's hard to rust them even if the current UP is running a LOT of dirty engines). Pin washes and light shadowing really helps bring out detail along with gentle drybrushing, so most of my units DO get some painting done. I like your techniques and have started adding them to some of my projects.
Thanks Gary. One of the things that I've picked up along the way is that black paint (or washes) tends to be a very dark blue in terms of actual pigment. You can see this most clearly if you mix black paint with a yellow, it will turn an olive green, betraying the blue. This is another big reason why brown washes are a good idea for lighter warm colours. I plan on doing something showing the benefits of lighter weathering in upcoming videos!
Great video and wonderful weathering as always. 👍
Thanks William, and thanks for your reply to my posted question!
Placing decals on damp paper towel also works to prepare for transfer
That would have the added benefit that the decals would stay where you leave them...
Best part is the paint names :) Skull, Bone, just waiting for screaming dragon pee yellow
One of their retired colour names is "Vomit Brown" and was really good for doing dust either sprayed or drybrushed. Now the one I have hard time saying with a straight face is "Gore-Grunta Fur."
@@JCsRiptrack Maybe because you're using Games Workshop's Citadel Paint colors designed for Warhammer, which would make the Gore-Grunta Fur perfectly acceptable as it's for the Orcs and other creatures with fur.
After seeing them on your channel I picked up a couple sets of those oilbrushers, love starship filth and dusty earth! You do have to watch for the occasional drips when applying.
I find I have to wipe the brush at the end of the tube a little bit, but yes, drips do happen. Recently, I wanted to add a small dot of white to something. It was not a small dot. Fortunately, oil paints are forgiving when it comes to wiping up mistakes!
great jon on that engine,I am always scared to take off the numbers on a engine or car!
Well... if you can't take it off, you can always cover it up! :)
That scale I never ever use a brush to paint only airbrush and Pigments and washes . Good presentation but I've got a start a RUclips channel .iam a full time model builder I do this for a living. You have Brush marks all over the locomotive. I am a retired locomotive engineer and I have never seen a locomotive that overly weathered and I live and Michigan and we had old up GP 39-3 and GP 40s never ever did they look like they been setting on Mars.
Thanks Brad. This was a "composite" weathering job at the request of the owner, borrowing features from several pictures rather than replicating a single locomotive. I've seen some pictures of old North American locomotives in Africa that are still in operation but are incredibly rusted out, and it was something like this that the owner wanted. Still, there are some things on this model that I know I could have done better with, and I do appreciate your feedback.
Do you have the reference of the decals sheet?
Great video. I’m curious if you use different clear/satin/dull coats following oil paints versus after water-based acrylic paints.
Thanks. There is some wisdom to alternating clear coat types. I tend to default toward acrylic clear coats as they tend to be less reactive to layers across the board. A lacquer spray, for example, can mess up oil work if you're not careful. The AK Interactive ones I use can be thinned with Alcohol or Lacquer, which allows for some flexibility, but they really don't like water. Future floor polish (or its current equivalent) can be cut with Tamiya Flat Base for a versatile clear coat from dead flat to glossy depending on the mix. This doesn't have the water issues that the others do, but the drawback is that you're mixing every time.
I am not too concerned about mixing because I use my airbrush(es) and mix and then clean routinely. It’s incentive to do two or more cars at a time. Thanks for the advice. Also, like how you use paints and techniques from the War Gamers. A friend is introducing these methods to local model railroaders. I shared your channel with him.
Even though I did model railroading as a kid, I learned most of my painting/weathering from fantasy/science fiction wargames, with a bit of a foray into military subjects as at least one of the games I played was a more historical wargame. The paint products and systems that are available here are great for one's arsenal.
I have to start a RUclips channel. Sorry that is Way out of scale on the weathering overdone
Please do! The more of those skills that are out there, the more we can learn from each other. I appreciate the critique.