Clean failures off your FEP with ZERO SCRAPING! This is the best way!
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- Stop attempting to scrape little bits stuck to your FEP after a failure. This is a neat little trick that combines the vat cleaning functionality on more recent printers with utilizing failed supports. With this method you'll never have to use that FEP-killing plastic scraper that comes with printers again.
To be fair, you did good until you showed to touch the bottom of the FEP. That is a BIG nono as one, the way your pushing up on it can EASILY stretch it even a little bit that can cause issues later on, but you can also be leaving behind debris, fibers, or even faint traces of resin you may not see on your gloves from touching other parts of the vat. Or hecj from that towel you have it resting on. Even instructions tell you to never touch the FEP for this reason and if you clean it to rest it on its side, never flat down to avoid the FEP coming into contract with something.
Also it comes up super easy if you put the support in the CORNER, with part hanging off of the exposure area, not just randomly somewhere. The supports create a nice lip that is easy to go in and cleanly peal all of that up without scraping. You don't even have to clean out the resin or remove the vat and heck I've had it some times just curl up on its self due to the support creating that lip that lets it pull away.
I've been printing for going on 3 years now, had my fair share of failed prints and never had to do much more than plop a support in a corner, run the tank clean than slowly pull it up and out. Want something even easier? Make yourself a small ball and use a really thick support on it and make it a good inch long, and print out a bunch of those. Use those for tank cleaning instead as normal supports can also easily snap off and break as you try and lift up with them. And yeah... put it in the corner of your vat, not randomly in the middle where it does nothing.
Agreed, except for one important thing: _"...You don't even have to clean out the resin or remove the vat..."_
*you do need to remove it to SIEVE the resin (before putting it back in)!*
The chances of also having a (tiny) floating bit in there is very high. With all the risks it brings -- as you wont notice it during the hours of (re)printing, until you come back with resin all over your desk and floor (or worse inside your printer), because the floating bit punched a hole in the FEP.
As such, this is even more important to do than not putting your tray flat or touching the bottom.
It does not make any sense if you do properly handle the tray/resin like you should (rest tray on its side, not touch bottom, etc), but you completely neglect to sieve for floating bits.
I never ever sieve the resin when cleaning the VAT from a failed print. Using the expose-and-pull-out method removes all hardened resin. If you are in doubt, just whisk it with a soft tool (I use the spoon that comes with PVA) and you would feel if there is anything left. Never is though.
@@macnavi Never is, until there is...
You can not 'feel' those tiny bits at all if they are there! Yet, they sure can cause punctures.
I really appreciate thank's
That I did not figure this out myself makes me feel incredibly stupid and slow of thought. The only slight defense I have is that as you started talking about snipping off the support, I could put it together before you made it clear.
But still. I am not a smart man any more. The promise of my youth is well and truly gone.
Put the support at the most possible corner in order to have a maximum of pulling force to release the corner from the FEP first.
Wow you are still doing a lot more work than I do with this method. 1. You expose it for 30-60 seconds?! I do 10-20 (usually 10) with 70% UV. And why are you bothering draining the whole vat? The whole point is you don't have to anymore with this method.
Yes that is what I do as well on my Elegoo Mars 3 Pro. I get the corner to pop off the fep with the extra support piece and then on occasion I have had the layer tear because the failed piece might have been a little big and so I coax the fep off with my gloves hand and then pull on it carefully and it almost always comes out clean. I did a bad thing before by having a piece of cured resin on my yellow spatula that dug into the FEP and made a hole about three days after I had changed it. I put a tiny patch of clear packing tape behind it like Uncle Jessy posted and it worked like a charm. Okay that’s all. Good luck printing everyone.
@@danield679 Oh wow you filled a hole in the fep with tape? I assume on the outside of the Vat?
*You'd drain the vat because the risk of having also maybe floating bits is much high(er)!*
The more steps you do, the less risk of FEP damage/a major failure (in the worse case equals: printer kaput, because of a hole in FEP, resin drained all over and inside your printer).
Not draining the vat is just only 1 step away from not doing anything at all and ignoring everything..... and thus a catastrophic failure for sure!
That it didn't happen to you (yet!!), is no excuse to learn very bad habits! You can find enough comments and even videos on youtube of people who were equally lazy and the result is they damaged their printer beyond repair (and that's even including a very long and tedious cleanup of all the spilled out resin around their desk).
But hey... if you can't be bothered to even drain and siff the resin before putting it back in, to save you just 20 seconds (because that is ALL it takes you to do it)... by all means risk your entire printer and a 2 hour cleanup.
@@danield679 patching the FEP with clear packing tape is just a plain old stupid idea also. Again: lots of comments, and again videos, on youtube of people who did this 'trick' and _"it always worked"_ .... until it didn't and they payed for it big time.
Because that tape WILL come loose (matter of time, especially when being exposed by UV!). And/or resin will still seep into the hole thru the miniscule tiny edge around the hole and tape where the tape didn't stick, clogging it up, harden, and enlarge over a short time which each exposure and eventually will break the tape. And this always happens during printing (thus without you even noticing it, except for a a hours later when all the resin is lying on the floor and in the guts of your printer.
That this hasn't happen to you (yet) does NOT make this a good tip AT ALL! It is an extremely risky tip! You should always have an extra FEP film at hand, you shouldn't do stupid, plain and simple, period.
@@CookieTube worker smarter not harder
Thank you for this! I ran into a print fail yesterday and scraping the vat caused me to have to replace the fep after only 2 or 3 uses. Put in new fep and very next print fails too (total print fail across the whole fep. My luck is amazing right now). I thought there must be a better way and a quick search led me here. Was able to get my fep cleaned painlessly and get back to printing sooner than if I had been trying to scrap all the bits off. It was sooooo much easier! You are a life saver!
Well I have done a similar thing. I will be replacing my fep today probably.
I never touch the FEP with any gloves, since it is easy to be polluted with resin. I put a paper towel between the back of the FEP and my hand.
Yes, that is a good idea. The paper towel slides over the film easily reducing risk of damage
Just got our first resin printer and already had a catastrophe from damaged fep. Wish I had seen this video sooner.
I had a big nasty failure, was sure I was going to have to change the FEP. Used this technique and it worked perfectly. Cheers.
There is easer way, you just put an old support in the corner of the LCD (NOT THE FEP) Run a tank clean then pull up and twards the center of the LCD. This will pull out the tank clean with all the stuck parts.
For anyone trying this: put the old support in an outer (!) corner, turn on the UV light as in the video (15-20 seconds might already do) and just pull on the support. No need to drain the VAT nor damage the FEP. I actually never clean the VAT, just give it a whisk with a soft tool.
BTW, this is an idea that was posted before this video was released by someone else, but then with the tips I just mentioned.
Yea, was about to say the same. There is no reason to do all that draining and "fingering".
This is an awesome idea, gonna try it on my next failure!
*You'd drain the vat because after you noticed something broke off, the risk of having additional floating bits is much high(er)!*
The more proper steps you do, the less risk of FEP damage/a major failure (in the worse case equals: printer kaput, because of a hole in FEP, resin drained all over and inside your printer).
Not draining the vat is just only 1 step away from not doing anything at all after a small failure..... and thus a catastrophic failure in the making for sure!
That it didn't happen to you (yet!!), is no excuse to learn very bad habits! You can find enough videos on youtube of people who were equally 'lazy' or in a hurry and the result is they damaged their printer beyond repair (even after a very long and tedious cleanup of all the drained resin around their desk).
But hey... if you can't be bothered to even drain, check and siff the resin, after a broken piece, before putting the resin back in, to save you just 20 seconds (because that is actually ALL it takes to do it)... by all means risk a damaged printer and/or a 2 hour cleanup. See what takes the most time and money.
@@CookieTube Never seen a hole cause it to leak inside of the machine unless someone uses a material that isn't meant for their printer. As far as more steps = higher risk.. No.. And finally.. No way will I or any sane 3D printer enthusiast drain their vat with every use. Stir.. Wait for it to settle.. cure and pull. Works every time.
@@CookieTube Wow, you got out of bed on the wrong foot, clearly. I know it works perfectly for me for a few years now. You do what ever you want to do with my tip. I do not force you.
I'm using an Anycubic Photon S and Mono X, and this also translates to them as well! Just do an exposure test, and viola!
Though the trick about using a support as leverage is very clever! Thank you for this great advice :)
That's what I was thinking too. I just got a Peopoly Forge and I know this will eventually happen. Glad to hear I'm barking up the right tree.
I'm here after fucking up my FEP and buying the replacements that will get here in a week... All because I did it as per the instructions.
This is all to complicated. 1-position the support right on the edge 2-exposure 3-peel off carefully and remove the cured resin 4- done
No vat removal, no vat draining, ni vat massaging...
5- increased risk of punching holes during next print (out of sight) because of loose bits still floating around in tank.
6- crying in shame and regret of skipping a step to save 20 seconds of sieving the resin.
7- massive cleanup which takes move than an hour (that is in case your printer did survive and resin didn't leaked internally)
8- hiding the stupidity, and never mention it again so other people are strengthened in their believe that _"you don't need to drain the vat"_ .
9- the "hot tip" spreads as wild fire.....
If you still want to drain the vat anyway, no need to do a thin layer across the whole build area. Just do like the video shows at the end where you slightly push the Fep from underneath the failed print, around the corner of the failed print. That way it will not be sticking anymore to the Fep and go around the edges of the failed print from underneath until it pops up, then you just pick it up and throw it out.
throw it out.. after curing in the sun for a bit
won't you get marks on the underside of the fep by pressing on it?
@@that_Ranjit Not at all, you shouldn't be pressing on it from underneath hard enough to where it would leave an imprint or damage it. You should only be using your fingers when pushing from underneath, nothing sharp. Unless you have skeleton fingers, you should be good lol
@@monkehgamingofficial if there are marks from gloves or some light dust on the bottom of the fep, will that affect the print at all?
@@that_Ranjit not if you wear clean gloves
Really clever idea! :)
This was an epic tip. Thank you for saving me a ton of time.
came here after ruining my FEP with the supplied plastic scraper after my second print, thanks bro :)
I didn't think of that, I normally used a UV flashlight to harden the bits stuck to the FEP and then tap them or gently press them from the other side, avoiding the edge of the print, so as not to leave its impression on the FEP. TExposing a layer is a method that uses more resin, but can get rid of many little stuck bits, which is the most annoying print separation scenario, and you do not need to pour it out. Still a good idea to filter out the vat though, as running the buildplate into a loose piece will cause either the first layer of next print to come out badly, build plate to get skewed and need releveling, or (unlikely) damage the FEP/LCD. Or the piece will be randomly stuck to the next print somewhere.
I wonder would clear resin be more wasteful? i.e.decant most of it first leaving a small amount covering the FEP?
This works but also wastes resin, just empty the vat and then rub gently your finger underneath the FEP SCREEN everything just Pops off no scraping necessary. And you not wasting all that resin.
I didn't even know what that vat cleaning button I kept seeing on the control did until this. I wonder if I should start reading the manual or something.
Awesome tip. I wish I had known about this yesterday before I scraped a failure off and put a couple dents into the FEP already... on a brand new printer. Oh well - live & learn.
Sure wish I could have watched this video about an hour ago. Ripped two holes in my FEP being brand new to resin printing. *sigh* Have to wait two days for replacement screen, install it, then try again. Ohwell we don’t learn anything from successes right?
Yo what every happened to you man?! I remember you years ago with ali on twitch?! What happened
All these years, why tf didn't I think of that!!!! Thank you.
I wish I watched this before, I am new to resin printing, now I have dimples and few scratches
what you've done with your finger "Pushing the film behind the print" is much worst than scrapping it with plastic tool. also I rather scrap than pushing the THIN! film with my fat finger ..
WHY would I do this? Why waste an entire layer of resin when all I need to do is press the underside of the FEP to loosen it then use my slotted spatula (That I printed from a Thingiverse file) to easily lift it out of the vat?
Not sure if I’m doing something wrong, but I usually don’t even drain my vat when I’ve done this and it’s been fine
In that case, yes, you're doing it wrong I'm afraid.
Do NOT skip on draining and SIEVING the resin!
The chance of also a having a tiny floating piece is very high when you saw a piece broke off.
So, unless you want to risk punching a hole during a print, without you even noticing it and spilling the resin all over (and probably inside!) your printer, desk, floor, ... do not skip draining the vat. It should not take more than a minute to do (drain, sieve, put resin back in, vat back on printer).
Heck yes! Thanks dude I was freaking out for a bit about the solid resin being stuck. Come off instantly after doing this
Thank you for sharing this concept it's a FEP Saver. XD
this is pointless if you are filtering the resin back into the bottle anyways, this is just waisting resin with extra steps
It is not only the cost, it is also waiting fucking 2 weeks to get a new one from China.....
i stopped using alcohol, just warm water does the trick boss
Guessing this doesn't work as well for clear resins?
better not use it with transparent resin.
¿Cómo no pensé en esto antes?, gracias amigo eres un genio, mis próximas fep te lo agradecen de antemano
I'm definitely going to give this a try next time I have a failed print!
I'm kinda new so I might be doing this wrong, but what I do instead is, drain the resin (without curing a full bottom layer on the clean setting) and after that I pour a small amount of Isopropyl Alcohol into the vat (away from the printer, of course) and leave it there for a couple of minutes, after which I drain the IPA and flip the vat (on a container or a paper napkin) and gently massage the area with fresh clean gloves (maybe with a little IPA on the tips to prevent any friction) avoiding to bend the FEP (or definitely way less than it bends from the suction force when printing) and the failed part just moves/slides around, that's when I know I can just grab it from the film without worrying about damaging it.
That way I can also avoid wasting more resin on a full layer cure and maybe having more trouble with that.
This is what I do as well. However, I haven't come up with a fast/clean way of cleaning up the edges around the fep that has a small lip of uncured resin. Seems I'm spraying and cleaning endlessly.
@Alejandro: You are actually doing it correctly!
Please do not pay attention to all the stupid 'cutting corners' tips and tricks to save a few seconds of time!!!
_"Old/bad habits die hard"_ they say...
And that is very much true in this hobby with gazillions of anecdotal _"clever tips"_ because _"it worked for me, so it must be the correct way, what can go wrong"_ for some clicks and views..... until it all does go horribly wrong (and then they usually are so ashamed of their stupidity you barely hear about this, only encouraging more people to follow suit).
'More experienced' people should actually listen more often to newbies whom haven't had the chance to learn bad habits yet!
I can drain out the resin, sieving it into a temporary container, work the bit loose with IPA (without ever touching the FEP), put the resin back in.... in LESS time it takes many people of doing these "tips and tricks", ESPECIALLY the ones who say you can skip the draining of the vat/sieving the resin!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
--- might of helped that I worked in an industrial screen printing company for a while where PROPERLY cleaning out the screens/vats is done a few hundreds of times a day. ... but oh well...
PS: the curing of a throw away layer with a piece of almost cured resin, as shown in the video, is an ok method I guess (but put the piece in the corner, not just anywhere). But it also wastes resin (even if it is not much), it is bad for the wallet, and especially the environment. It also takes time. It uses precious UV lamp life. Etc.... But the biggest gripe I have is with those who suggest you don't even need to clean out the vat when doing this method.
Brilliant. I keep wreaking my FEP with the scraper. Got a new sub for this trick.
Dude! You could use the failed piece you’ve pulled to paint and flock and use for terrain?? Looks like an industrial yard with with right treatment?!! Love it!!
Great thanks.
Oh lord have merci! I work in the company in they method was e place the film, easy hahaha I was scraping now thank to you I will do that.😊
Thanks for this video - I've noticed a rough patch on my Mars 3 FEP and figure it's due for a clean. I've got supports and this method should clean it right off with minimal fuss.
another ametur that thinks this is a good way, so much wasted resin, this is a bullshit way but if u lower the exposure time u would need to rub the back of the fep, the not good to that, and if put the supports in the corner instead of the middle of the screen it would make it easier to remove all that wasted resin, a few cents worth, how cheap are getting your resin for, it like u have only just gotten into printing, and what exactly have modified to say that's a heavily modded printer
for people questioning
it often fails cus the supports arent big or strong enough
youll rarely get off well with using small or slim supports always go medium or big
One day too late 😂
Very cool - thanks for sharing this tip!
oh hell yeah! Just had my first major fail and did this and it worked a treat!! Thanks man!!
Thank you this is a great tip for this 3d newbie!
Holy shit, you just saved me a hugeee headache. Thank you sooo much ❤
its awesome but my Prozen doesnt have this so its old school for me lol
well.. im glad i clicked this video! thanks.
Ohh a great idea 🤔didn't even think of this tbh. Thanks!
And After This process if some resin is still in vet?
Would this work with the resin still in the vat or does it have to be drained?
Its best if this is done before draining the vat!
@@YouveGotRyan I just tried it with the resin still in the vat and placed some old print on the edge of the screen before starting the full screen exposure so I could pull the sheet of cured resin off without even taking off the vat :) works amazing!
@@ynzeselders4184 happy it worked out for you!
Pros and cons. I like to save some resin sometimes
would that work with transparent resin? seems like the whole vat would get partially exposed due to the translucent resin.
It sure would! The vat clean function works exactly like cooking in the base layers of a normal print does. Minimal bleed if any
You are a genius...
Wish I'd known this ages ago
I've done this without removing the Vat or the resin. Carefully put the scrap on a corner and gently pull it out. Don't have to drain the vat at all.
Yes you DO need to drain the vat and SIEVE for floating pieces because the chances of having them when something broke of is very high!
Finally! a real solution. Thank you for posting this.
I tried this once but the support piece didn’t stick to the cured layer. Your idea of cycling twice is a good suggestion I’ll try next time. Thanks!
And THAT, my dear people from a few comments above, who think it is smart to even skip a 20 seconds step, ... is the reason why you should ALSO AND ALWAYS drain and SIEVE the resin, after you encountered a broken off piece.
Nice trick! Thanks for sharing.
Is that masking tape that you have put around the screen on your printer? Is that to protect it in case of resin spills? I don’t mean the FEP, I am talking about the actual screen that cures the resin.
That is called kapton tape. Kapton tape is much thinner than the tape that was used to originally seal the gap between the printer screen and main printer body. Replacing this allows the build plate to get much closer to the lcd screen when printing.
The sonic mini 4k demands a bunch of modifications to get the best performance out of it unfortunately. The Mars 3 runs better out of the box.
OMG AWESOME! THX
Great trick buddy!
Nice. Thanks!
Great tip. Thanks
Great idea! Thanks for sharing :)
Wow this worked great on my first try. Thanks!
For some reason my support dosen't always stick to the cured layer. I have got it working only twice out 5 times. Any idea for improving it?
Hmmm perhaps you're not curing for long enough? The "vat clean" should go for 30-45 seconds
It might be possible the _'pull support'_ was already cured a bit too much. Some resins, when cured beyond a certain point, don't take new resin as good (at least not so good to be used as a 'lever').
Or, the _'pull support'_ had a tiny gap between it and the FEP, aka: it floated up a bit. In that case you could try to weigh it down a bit so it sits flush on the FEP. HOWEVER, be VERY careful with this, as you can easily bend the FEP too much (especially if you also have tape around your screen border, which WILL create a tiny gap between screen and FEP because of the thickness of the tape). And as such damage the FEP or at least shorten its use time.
Also make sure your _'pull support'_ sits right in the corner(!) of the exposed curing area. Maybe a bit over it so you create a loose lip to pull from. Do not put just anywhere. Note: this also automatically minimizes the bending of the FEP in case you weighed the _'pull support'_ down a bit (doesn't mean you should/could put _more_ weight on it though -- just enough so it doesn't float up).
nice . saves me time . Thanks.
Has someone tried this method with transparent resin?
Works the same way
Vary nice! Thank you!
Very
How bad is the smell?
Depends entirely on the resin. Some haven't been bad at all, some have left an acrid taste in my mouth and burned my eyes. I've started using a respirator (and safety Google's over my glasses) if I'm using harsher resin.
If fumes are an issue for you, water washable resins typically are less smelly than the others, but you'll still want them in a very well ventilated room while using.
Issue with water washable resins is that thinner parts like swords and spears tend to warp after they're done printing. You can reshape these parts by heating them with a hair dryer (after they're fully cured), bending them into shape, and quickly submerging them into cold water once the desired shape is obtained.
Thank you for the video. It's really helpful, but what confuses me a bit: You are really resin regularly, right? Have you never considered using real chemical protection gloves? I am using thick chemical gloves with CE 0075 CAT III. They look super thick, but they are soooo good. I can even put my hands into a container with isopropanol. I use them all the time.
stop using abbreviations. not everyone understands them.
Use 3-in-1 silicone lubricant spray (light sprits on your fep) and use micro fiber cloth to spread it around covering the whole fep before you pour in your resin and you will not have problems with prints sticking to fep.
Don't just use any oil or lubricant, silicone lube is the only safe option. As it's ingredients do not pose a danger when mixed with resin and/or degrade fep.
Honestly I think this vat cleaning option is horrible. You’re partially cursing the entire vat of resin, and then pouring that partially cured resin back into your fresh resin. This has to increase the chance of failures…
Just putting a bit of IPA in the vat and then pushing gently on the underside of the vat is enough to pop any piece off.
@Dan De Angelis What can I say, it works for me and a ton of others, so maybe figure out what you did wrong. 🤔