L 15’s are better known for fuel savings and compact easy to maintain build. To say a 2.0t is capable of making 600 plus on a stock block is like me saying we can do 465 on a stock l15 which I’ve done years ago but 600 on a type r will last about as long as 450 on a l15. They both need to be built and ironically both engines have the same problems lol. They both eat HG’s between the bores, they both wreck 3rd and 4th gears and at least with the type r and some 2.0t engines the cly heads crack or pop freeze plugs over 30 psi. I’ve taken both platforms of these engines to the upper limits and if you really want a good useable Honda power platform use a old k series.
"how little power" when they can get to 300 easily is crazy. Especially at their weight. And they're focused on handling instead of power, so what do you do? Ruin the handling. Now you have a slow car that handles like shit, good job. $5k in power mods brings you to CTR power, or you can spend $5k on stancing your car to ruin it forever.
@@dominicg2456 “your car” key word is its mine not yours. Crazy how people loose their minds over the idea of other ppl doing what they want to do to their own car. Ive not done anything to my si that cant be reversed. Ive already got a set of new coilovers and this car is getting turned back into a full fledged street/track car next season, but for now i’ll enjoy cruising around and inch off the floor.
@@davidc606He’s completely right though. Remember this whole video is for people who want advice on modifying their Civic. I would definitely not be recommending people to essentially ‘ruin’ their car and make it less drivable just because it doesn’t make 500hp lol.
Hi i have a built short block L15 2017 Honda Civic hatchback lx upgraded turbo to 2860. Fbo on flex fuel E85 mix 93 oct, upgraded fuel pump n turbo cam, and Im at a reliable 520hp. Yes its a manual and built too with a clutch rated for 650hp. This is way more than what i need for civic. Beats almost anything on the road that’s heavy modded. Everything all together was 35k. People who say the 1.5t L15 is trash is wrong and im proof of it. It can hold power. When i was stock motor fbo on E85 mix dyno tune i was at 320 and i had a cvt. I decided i wanted more power(built short block) so i got a new built manual transmission because the cvt was at 180k miles and is rated for max of 360 before it starts slipping for too much trq which is why tuners turn it down. For spending 35k on the whole car and getting the numbers im getting i think its amazing. A type r isn’t cheaper and its 45k- 60k msrp if you want one with some what low mileage, not including dealer tax. And you start at 300-320 whp just fyi for sure if you do everything to it yeah it’ll be faster but its a lot more money. 45k+ another lets say 10k thats 55k vs 35k for almost the same power
From my experience it doesn’t matter if you want a manual or cvt both are good manual can hold more power but 320 on E85 is more then enough to beat most people n for people in general. Unless your a power freak like me and want to built or motor get a manual. Haters are gonna say get a type r, sell it, cvt is trash, your slow. I say just line it up then.
Fyi i do want a type r but the bank won’t qualify me for 52k loan on a black 2020 civic type R so i got a base model cvt civic and started learning about cars and now i have a insane daily sleeper
Before watching: yes but only to the point of fbo and e85. Basically as a proper daily/autocross car light road racing duty. Once you go to a built motor it’s pretty useless to go with the l15 platform when a stock k20/k24 bottom end holds up to more power than a 9/10ths l15 build. If I were to build a track car I’d choose 8g si, or fk8 right off the bat. But man the 10th gen just has such charm to it as a daily driver, I’ve had a blast with my car and it has such great mod support. I just wish they gave us a detuned k20 in the non-R’s..
And that’s just for power stuff- the amount of suspension and chassis mods these cars have available is incredible. You can be SUPER competitive in autocross with just springs, anti lift kit, rear sway bar and some strut tower braces or a subframe brace up front. It’s incredible how good this chassis is to start out. I just wish to do all of these mods and then have a K series to really turn up the power. So close to the perfect daily race car.
I also bought my 2020 new in 2020 but i voided that warranty as soon as i got home because i bought it out of state. Been tuned the whole 85k miles i have on it
70k on my 2018 that’s stock. My wife and I have driven the shit out of it. We take it to the canyons almost weekly. I change the oil every 3500 miles with full sun and it’s been great. I absolutely love my 10th gen. When it gets to a 100k I’m going to get a new Si. The turbo motors are amazing.
I want to get a 10th gen Si as a daily. All I plan to do is basic mods like intake, exhaust, wheels tires and suspension. I only have a couple questions, is it safe to run a base Ktuner tune with just an intake and exhaust (maybe intercooler?). Also what's the biggest wheel and tire combo you can run on springs? I want to keep the electronic dampening if I can but if it means sacrificing the looks with a smaller wheel and tire combo, I'll go with coilovers
I agree your video makes 100% sense. Keeping my 2018 Si stock. It's a fun ride and my daily commuter hitting 42mpg highway. Also agree strongly if you are chasing horsepower get a Mustang V8 10 speed like a 2020 model and toss a turbo on it.... 800 HP here we come. The Honda 1.5L in stock form makes most sense anything beyond the V8 or a 2.0 if you plan to stay with Honda.
Hey Gavin, Well said. If i had to give my 2 cents there are 3 progressive levels when discussing power with the l15. Level 1: Ktuner with either TSP or Phaerable tune, intake, downpipe. Power: 225 -240 whp (clutch is recommended) Level 2: Include same as listed before with bigger turbo (27Won, RV6, Pure, etc.), flex fuel, head studs, clutch, intercooler and a professional tune (DRob for us North East boys). Power: 290 -320 whp (clutch is mandatory) Level 3: Built block, built transmission, Fuel system. This is big money for little gains with still shaky reliability. Power: 350+whp (should have bought an FK8 territory) Level 1 with some suspension and wheels is a great option for most as it is easy to do and is most reliable. I have been in this chassis since 2018 and I stopped at level 2. Been happy with no issues. Fun against most street cars and stock type R's but anything more and its a joke. Cheers!
Honestly I’ve been dreaming of a type r for a while but realistically my income isn’t at the type r money yet. Looking into a 10th gen si coupe for the time being and I think I enjoy my moms crv so I know it’s a little quicker and more fun with the 6 speed. I daily a 98 hatch with stock d16+4 speed auto so it’s definitely an upgrade and an awesome daily. Maybe I’ll buy my dream at a later date.
I have a 2017 Honda civic EX-T 6 speed manual transmission it’s FBO full exhaust skunk2 intake manifold n PRL titanium turbo inlet pipe with an action clutch type R retro fit flywheel and an action clutch stage 5 six puck clutch kit
I also have a PRL big turbo kit I was looking into the skunk2 cams n spring wit Brian crower valves for the head and built block wit a polished crankshaft
I was so close in buying a 2017+ si. At the time I wrecked my 8th gen and was thinking of selling it and moving on but now that I spent 9k to fix it, I've decided to keep it. What he said near the end about just buying a type r if you wanted high numbers makes sense because of the suspension tuning Honda did for fwd platform. FWD has a limit and usually 300hp is pretty much that upper limit before you have to start seriously looking into changing your setup to not have crazy torque steer. I'm running a k20z3 head with a k24a2 bottom with bolt ons and I'm already running into wheel slipage when I didn't on a stock z3. Civics are the gateway drug of the car community for people that want a useable daily. There are other sub 30k sporty cars but not many are 5 seaters, can be driven in all weather, and wont destroy your wallet cause you have to repair things you didn't know needed to. If you want power on a civic just get an older civic, awd swap and turbo it. You will make usable power and it wont kill you when you flat foot the pedal or be a pain to daily like mine is right now.
The l15 is a great engine it’s just small it doesn’t have as high limits, but there were also some of the older K series that people were using the swap that didn’t have very high limits either and couldn’t hold anything more than 300 wheel horsepower. There are some people making 330 wheel on L 15. No problems just head studs they are so many of those engines made out there if the l15 there are gonna be failures if you want more performance and more capability to hold higher power numbers by the type r that’s what it’s for
I agree with a lot of what you said, but one thing people should also be made aware of is that the reasons that K series may not have been able to hold much more power than 300 wheel horsepower are different than the reasons the L series can't. The biggest difference being the k series compression ratios, it was designed by honda to be naturally aspirated , it just so happened that the engine was also capable of making a lot of power when built successfully. A lot of the times people were blowing their engines at that power point was because they were still running stock compression ratios, and were probably not using the best tuners to stay within adequate limits. The reason the L series engine can't make a lot of power is that it IS NOT DESIGNED TO. It's designed to be an economical, zippy, decent engine with the power output it makes from the factory. It is definitely not designed with big power in mind. We can see this by comparing the engines and the parts that make up both engines.
Let's put it this way, I get so upset when many trash talk l15. They are very similarities to the d series and zc twin cam, this is the new future of a redesign zc twin cam with a turbo. Those 3 d, l15, zc are all the same l15 is shit oil pump unless you go thicker oil and oil cooler makes a better difference and that adds 5 qt. 5 qt extra lube has made a big difference, oil changes at 3500 to 5k. I say the block has the same piston size as a d series and zc. The crank hold good power and has decent oil passages. The piston walls are thick, same size, it all lands in the hands that put money and build it right. Cos? Naw 500 to 600 is great especially done right, don't cheap out. Oil pump upgrade, keep oil squirter and choose thicker oils. I can keep on forever but build or maintain even if you did a arp head stud to upgrade for future head gasket failure.
I have a 2020 si sedan with 28k miles i bought used. Clutch is going out already with zero mods so not sure what previous owner did.... before you roast me im in my 40s and have owned close to a dozen manual vehicles and never had to replace clutch before 100k miles so yes i know how to shift. That being said since im going to replace clutch going with Act. Id be thrilled with 300hp so thats the build im targeting. Will do rear engine mount at the same time along with Ktune and MAperformance intake for now. Will do Intercooler and charge pipes next in a few months prob this summer as i live in Texas and can imagine the heat soak will be really bad. If i was truly wanting big hp like 400+ i def wouldnt have bought a civic or a front wheel drive for that matter.
Great video and honest with all the info. I find that the crank design of the L15 is awful for holding power which is the root of the rod failure along with the bore and stroke being so out of square in part also cryo treating the gear set could have solved the issue of the 3rd and 4th searing. But like you said it was ment to be the economic motor with cost of manufacturing in mind
ok, You say racing, but if I want a normal Daily for some short pulls on the street for better smile on My face? I made a muffler delete and added a one muffler for better flow, plan to add a Short Ram like Mishimoto has with the heat shield, and last thing I think about a small tune on the original computer to make like 230-250 hp. No other mods. Will it be safe for longer ?
This video was very informative! I'm definitely modding my engine, but I don't plan on putting her on the track, it's more for my personal satisfaction. What brand headstands did you go with. What would that cost to have someone install for me. I'm from NC so I use Nicedup Motorsports, they typically build Supras and Skylines, but they're an amazing bunch of folks. I'm currently waiting on all the parts, but I've already got down pipe, cobra big bore cold air and MAF, exhaust, and tuned. I'm waiting on my Mishimoto full intercooler with pipes, turbo intake, turbo wrap. I'm now considering the head studs. Outside of that If I see 220hp, I'm happy.
Hey, I have a 10th gen si and I was planning on building it up but I would tune at around 115k miles (yes I know this is crazy) but I was just wondering if it was worth it to just learn how to track a car. I would do a lot of the reliability mods and I would change head gaskets and head studs, turbo seals, but all in all was wondering if building it would hurt my pockets too much. P.S Im keeping it under 245hp even after the tune, would probably keep stock turbo and I already have: intercooler, charge pipes, BOV, cold air intake, sway bars rear, sway bar end links front/rear. wondering if I should take it to the next level of- tune, clutch, rotors (BBK).
You don’t need to make a ton of power to enjoy these cars on track. Stick with basic mods and you’ll have a good time. A clutch will probably be needed
Looking to save up for a 10th gen Si and would love to add 100-150hp and not go higher than that. If i understood correctly the 1.5 would be able to handle that?
Far better engine than Lame15. B18c has the record for fastest Honda on the quarter mile. Granted it’s not 2010 anymore when $300 type R swaps was the shit back then. If you can get a GSR with a jdm b18 I wouldn’t do anything else to it except getting a jdm front end to swap
Do you find this car a bugger to drive smoothly from a stop and into 2nd gear? I used to own an srt4 and it was easy to drive compared to the si. I can never get moving smoothly from a stop light without jerking and bucking
I have an 11th and take offs r fine but a smooth 1-2 can be challenging but im also tunes with rev hang removed. Shifting just shy of 3k seems like the sweet spot
How would you feel about putting a B series in a 10th gen? I woke up with this wild ass idea and thought it would be insane, especially since no one has done it yet. I know people would call me insane or delusional but a man could only dream 😂
Hello Gavin, I just broke a piston in my civic SI and unfortunately I have not found the L15B7 engine of the SI, I bought the one from a L15B7 from a Honda turbo ELX that I got, what consequences or problems will the car give me in the future knowing that it no longer It is the pure SI engine, now I will put the L15B7 of a civic ELX with the OEM SI turbo, please, if you have experience in this it would be very helpful, I thank you
Why not recommend the accord 2.0? I mean it’s a big body, but it’s been a reliable platform for decent power. Low/mid 400s. Plus you’re using the engine for your swap. Definitely cheaper than a type r
The Civic Type R is just such a better platform for modifying than the SI. People who want to substantially modify the SI should just consider the Type R, especially with all of the supporting modifications that are required to get the SI capable of handling that increase in power. The fact that you really SHOULD upgrade the head studs and the clutch prior to doing a whole lot to the SI is a huge issue, at a certain point it just makes more economical sense to buy an FK8. The Fk8 you get better brakes, clutch, suspension, a higher displacement engine, etc. The fk8 really is worth the difference in price compared to the SI for anyone that is considering any substantial modifications.
@@XeroFailGames But in the end this is also the physical world with physical constraints, and some decisions are demonstrably better decisions than others. For instance the decision to make a lot of power with a L15 engine I that has tiny bolts that hold the connecting rods together, is probably a bad one. It hurts everybody to see all these companies stating that the l15 can hold more power than it actually can, just so that they can continue to sell car modifications and profit from it.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
L 15’s are better known for fuel savings and compact easy to maintain build. To say a 2.0t is capable of making 600 plus on a stock block is like me saying we can do 465 on a stock l15 which I’ve done years ago but 600 on a type r will last about as long as 450 on a l15. They both need to be built and ironically both engines have the same problems lol. They both eat HG’s between the bores, they both wreck 3rd and 4th gears and at least with the type r and some 2.0t engines the cly heads crack or pop freeze plugs over 30 psi. I’ve taken both platforms of these engines to the upper limits and if you really want a good useable Honda power platform use a old k series.
Thank you
after i realized how little power these engines we’re capable of i did a full 180 and just went the stance route lmao
I'm usually pretty tolerant but stanced? 🤢
"how little power" when they can get to 300 easily is crazy. Especially at their weight. And they're focused on handling instead of power, so what do you do? Ruin the handling. Now you have a slow car that handles like shit, good job. $5k in power mods brings you to CTR power, or you can spend $5k on stancing your car to ruin it forever.
@@dominicg2456 “your car” key word is its mine not yours. Crazy how people loose their minds over the idea of other ppl doing what they want to do to their own car. Ive not done anything to my si that cant be reversed. Ive already got a set of new coilovers and this car is getting turned back into a full fledged street/track car next season, but for now i’ll enjoy cruising around and inch off the floor.
@@davidc606He’s completely right though. Remember this whole video is for people who want advice on modifying their Civic. I would definitely not be recommending people to essentially ‘ruin’ their car and make it less drivable just because it doesn’t make 500hp lol.
Hi i have a built short block L15 2017 Honda Civic hatchback lx upgraded turbo to 2860. Fbo on flex fuel E85 mix 93 oct, upgraded fuel pump n turbo cam, and Im at a reliable 520hp. Yes its a manual and built too with a clutch rated for 650hp. This is way more than what i need for civic. Beats almost anything on the road that’s heavy modded. Everything all together was 35k. People who say the 1.5t L15 is trash is wrong and im proof of it. It can hold power. When i was stock motor fbo on E85 mix dyno tune i was at 320 and i had a cvt. I decided i wanted more power(built short block) so i got a new built manual transmission because the cvt was at 180k miles and is rated for max of 360 before it starts slipping for too much trq which is why tuners turn it down. For spending 35k on the whole car and getting the numbers im getting i think its amazing. A type r isn’t cheaper and its 45k- 60k msrp if you want one with some what low mileage, not including dealer tax. And you start at 300-320 whp just fyi for sure if you do everything to it yeah it’ll be faster but its a lot more money. 45k+ another lets say 10k thats 55k vs 35k for almost the same power
35k$ include the car and all the upgrades
From my experience it doesn’t matter if you want a manual or cvt both are good manual can hold more power but 320 on E85 is more then enough to beat most people n for people in general. Unless your a power freak like me and want to built or motor get a manual. Haters are gonna say get a type r, sell it, cvt is trash, your slow. I say just line it up then.
Fyi i do want a type r but the bank won’t qualify me for 52k loan on a black 2020 civic type R so i got a base model cvt civic and started learning about cars and now i have a insane daily sleeper
How long have you been driving on this setup?
@@bryanmaximis3705 2 years
Before watching: yes but only to the point of fbo and e85. Basically as a proper daily/autocross car light road racing duty. Once you go to a built motor it’s pretty useless to go with the l15 platform when a stock k20/k24 bottom end holds up to more power than a 9/10ths l15 build.
If I were to build a track car I’d choose 8g si, or fk8 right off the bat. But man the 10th gen just has such charm to it as a daily driver, I’ve had a blast with my car and it has such great mod support. I just wish they gave us a detuned k20 in the non-R’s..
And that’s just for power stuff- the amount of suspension and chassis mods these cars have available is incredible. You can be SUPER competitive in autocross with just springs, anti lift kit, rear sway bar and some strut tower braces or a subframe brace up front. It’s incredible how good this chassis is to start out. I just wish to do all of these mods and then have a K series to really turn up the power. So close to the perfect daily race car.
I also bought my 2020 new in 2020 but i voided that warranty as soon as i got home because i bought it out of state. Been tuned the whole 85k miles i have on it
How does buying it out if state void the warranty?
@j.martin4476 no no I mean I bought it out of state and soon as I got home to my state where I live I voided the warranty by putting a tune on it.
@@XeroFailGames lol ohhhh I see. Well I'm excited about mine getting clutch done this week and then off to the races 🤣
70k on my 2018 that’s stock. My wife and I have driven the shit out of it. We take it to the canyons almost weekly. I change the oil every 3500 miles with full sun and it’s been great. I absolutely love my 10th gen. When it gets to a 100k I’m going to get a new Si. The turbo motors are amazing.
Great video, dude!
k24 bros rise up.9th gen and under
Only thing I would say is intercooler is definitely necessary and should be the first thing you do if you plan on tuning
1st mod for any fwd should be a stiffer rear swaybar
I want to get a 10th gen Si as a daily. All I plan to do is basic mods like intake, exhaust, wheels tires and suspension. I only have a couple questions, is it safe to run a base Ktuner tune with just an intake and exhaust (maybe intercooler?). Also what's the biggest wheel and tire combo you can run on springs? I want to keep the electronic dampening if I can but if it means sacrificing the looks with a smaller wheel and tire combo, I'll go with coilovers
Wow! Major props I thought you had a mechanic degree
we need a detailed kswap breakdown!. stock head studs and 38k miles (64k overall) with the PRL 2860gen2 kit at 25psi and 345whp/308wtq.
Great video my man. Well done, and good advice.
I agree your video makes 100% sense. Keeping my 2018 Si stock. It's a fun ride and my daily commuter hitting 42mpg highway. Also agree strongly if you are chasing horsepower get a Mustang V8 10 speed like a 2020 model and toss a turbo on it.... 800 HP here we come. The Honda 1.5L in stock form makes most sense anything beyond the V8 or a 2.0 if you plan to stay with Honda.
Hey Gavin, Well said. If i had to give my 2 cents there are 3 progressive levels when discussing power with the l15.
Level 1: Ktuner with either TSP or Phaerable tune, intake, downpipe.
Power: 225 -240 whp (clutch is recommended)
Level 2: Include same as listed before with bigger turbo (27Won, RV6, Pure, etc.), flex fuel, head studs, clutch, intercooler and a professional tune (DRob for us North East boys).
Power: 290 -320 whp (clutch is mandatory)
Level 3: Built block, built transmission, Fuel system. This is big money for little gains with still shaky reliability.
Power: 350+whp (should have bought an FK8 territory)
Level 1 with some suspension and wheels is a great option for most as it is easy to do and is most reliable. I have been in this chassis since 2018 and I stopped at level 2. Been happy with no issues. Fun against most street cars and stock type R's but anything more and its a joke. Cheers!
its crazy you have to basally rebuild the engines to do what you can do by throwing 5psi at a b16
is it even worth it to tune the auto since the CVT transmission isnt the best?
@@ziplucas6844 yeah a lot of CVTs push to 300hp. They just need a good tune that pushes the torque curve to the top of the RPM range.
@@notscream4656I think 5psi on a b16 would maybe get to level 1
You get heat soak with one pull so it is necessary for inter cooler with charge pipes
Honestly I’ve been dreaming of a type r for a while but realistically my income isn’t at the type r money yet. Looking into a 10th gen si coupe for the time being and I think I enjoy my moms crv so I know it’s a little quicker and more fun with the 6 speed. I daily a 98 hatch with stock d16+4 speed auto so it’s definitely an upgrade and an awesome daily. Maybe I’ll buy my dream at a later date.
I love my L15 and ima be stopping under 300HP. The L15 can only do so much, but I enjoy this Si platform. I hope I can afford a FL5 one day lol
I have a 2017 Honda civic EX-T 6 speed manual transmission it’s FBO full exhaust skunk2 intake manifold n PRL titanium turbo inlet pipe with an action clutch type R retro fit flywheel and an action clutch stage 5 six puck clutch kit
Great informative video. I been enjoying my 2020 FK7!
I also have a PRL big turbo kit I was looking into the skunk2 cams n spring wit Brian crower valves for the head and built block wit a polished crankshaft
Very well said my friend. All i need is big turbo, apr headstuds, head gaskets. But still undecided to push the Si too hard.
I love when people just plainly say "k tuner is better" without any support. What exactly is better?
I was so close in buying a 2017+ si. At the time I wrecked my 8th gen and was thinking of selling it and moving on but now that I spent 9k to fix it, I've decided to keep it. What he said near the end about just buying a type r if you wanted high numbers makes sense because of the suspension tuning Honda did for fwd platform. FWD has a limit and usually 300hp is pretty much that upper limit before you have to start seriously looking into changing your setup to not have crazy torque steer. I'm running a k20z3 head with a k24a2 bottom with bolt ons and I'm already running into wheel slipage when I didn't on a stock z3. Civics are the gateway drug of the car community for people that want a useable daily. There are other sub 30k sporty cars but not many are 5 seaters, can be driven in all weather, and wont destroy your wallet cause you have to repair things you didn't know needed to. If you want power on a civic just get an older civic, awd swap and turbo it. You will make usable power and it wont kill you when you flat foot the pedal or be a pain to daily like mine is right now.
All I plan to do is coil overs or lowering springs, exhaust and intake besides a few other cosmetics.
I'm just doing all Mugen aero and probably an intake/exhaust, then call it good.
The l15 is a great engine it’s just small it doesn’t have as high limits, but there were also some of the older K series that people were using the swap that didn’t have very high limits either and couldn’t hold anything more than 300 wheel horsepower. There are some people making 330 wheel on L 15. No problems just head studs they are so many of those engines made out there if the l15 there are gonna be failures if you want more performance and more capability to hold higher power numbers by the type r that’s what it’s for
I agree with a lot of what you said, but one thing people should also be made aware of is that the reasons that K series may not have been able to hold much more power than 300 wheel horsepower are different than the reasons the L series can't. The biggest difference being the k series compression ratios, it was designed by honda to be naturally aspirated , it just so happened that the engine was also capable of making a lot of power when built successfully. A lot of the times people were blowing their engines at that power point was because they were still running stock compression ratios, and were probably not using the best tuners to stay within adequate limits. The reason the L series engine can't make a lot of power is that it IS NOT DESIGNED TO. It's designed to be an economical, zippy, decent engine with the power output it makes from the factory. It is definitely not designed with big power in mind. We can see this by comparing the engines and the parts that make up both engines.
hey, you mentioned you were tracking your car with the oem headstuds? how long did they last before your head gasket cratered?
Had a few autocross events and maybe one track day. Blown at just 40k miles
Let's put it this way, I get so upset when many trash talk l15. They are very similarities to the d series and zc twin cam, this is the new future of a redesign zc twin cam with a turbo. Those 3 d, l15, zc are all the same l15 is shit oil pump unless you go thicker oil and oil cooler makes a better difference and that adds 5 qt. 5 qt extra lube has made a big difference, oil changes at 3500 to 5k. I say the block has the same piston size as a d series and zc. The crank hold good power and has decent oil passages. The piston walls are thick, same size, it all lands in the hands that put money and build it right. Cos? Naw 500 to 600 is great especially done right, don't cheap out. Oil pump upgrade, keep oil squirter and choose thicker oils. I can keep on forever but build or maintain even if you did a arp head stud to upgrade for future head gasket failure.
I have a 2020 si sedan with 28k miles i bought used. Clutch is going out already with zero mods so not sure what previous owner did.... before you roast me im in my 40s and have owned close to a dozen manual vehicles and never had to replace clutch before 100k miles so yes i know how to shift. That being said since im going to replace clutch going with Act. Id be thrilled with 300hp so thats the build im targeting. Will do rear engine mount at the same time along with Ktune and MAperformance intake for now. Will do Intercooler and charge pipes next in a few months prob this summer as i live in Texas and can imagine the heat soak will be really bad. If i was truly wanting big hp like 400+ i def wouldnt have bought a civic or a front wheel drive for that matter.
Great video and honest with all the info. I find that the crank design of the L15 is awful for holding power which is the root of the rod failure along with the bore and stroke being so out of square in part also cryo treating the gear set could have solved the issue of the 3rd and 4th searing. But like you said it was ment to be the economic motor with cost of manufacturing in mind
ok, You say racing, but if I want a normal Daily for some short pulls on the street for better smile on My face? I made a muffler delete and added a one muffler for better flow, plan to add a Short Ram like Mishimoto has with the heat shield, and last thing I think about a small tune on the original computer to make like 230-250 hp. No other mods. Will it be safe for longer ?
This video was very informative! I'm definitely modding my engine, but I don't plan on putting her on the track, it's more for my personal satisfaction. What brand headstands did you go with. What would that cost to have someone install for me. I'm from NC so I use Nicedup Motorsports, they typically build Supras and Skylines, but they're an amazing bunch of folks. I'm currently waiting on all the parts, but I've already got down pipe, cobra big bore cold air and MAF, exhaust, and tuned. I'm waiting on my Mishimoto full intercooler with pipes, turbo intake, turbo wrap. I'm now considering the head studs. Outside of that If I see 220hp, I'm happy.
I got arp head studs from two step performance. I can’t imagine it would be too expensive to install. Takes maybe 4 hours
Hey, I have a 10th gen si and I was planning on building it up but I would tune at around 115k miles (yes I know this is crazy) but I was just wondering if it was worth it to just learn how to track a car. I would do a lot of the reliability mods and I would change head gaskets and head studs, turbo seals, but all in all was wondering if building it would hurt my pockets too much.
P.S Im keeping it under 245hp even after the tune, would probably keep stock turbo and I already have: intercooler, charge pipes, BOV, cold air intake, sway bars rear, sway bar end links front/rear.
wondering if I should take it to the next level of- tune, clutch, rotors (BBK).
You don’t need to make a ton of power to enjoy these cars on track. Stick with basic mods and you’ll have a good time. A clutch will probably be needed
10thgen 1.5t and the 7thgen d17 both have premature head gasket failures. Some make it to 100k some will fail early 30- 50k miles.
Looking to save up for a 10th gen Si and would love to add 100-150hp and not go higher than that. If i understood correctly the 1.5 would be able to handle that?
Yes but I would consider that to be the upper limit.
Can u beat a stock type R with all those mods?
Which year accord engine is best to swap with? 2018 accord 2.0t or the 2020 2.0t?
As far as I know it’s the same. Mine is from 2018
Any thoughts on upgrading a stock 2016 2.0L Civic Ex (base model)?
Don't have a ton of experience. Definitely less tuning potential but still a good chassis.
Do you have any experience or thoughts on the b18c1 GSR Integra? My l15 has all the mods you listed up to the rear motor mount it's pretty fun
Unfortunately I don’t have much experience with older Hondas
Far better engine than Lame15. B18c has the record for fastest Honda on the quarter mile. Granted it’s not 2010 anymore when $300 type R swaps was the shit back then. If you can get a GSR with a jdm b18 I wouldn’t do anything else to it except getting a jdm front end to swap
Do you find this car a bugger to drive smoothly from a stop and into 2nd gear? I used to own an srt4 and it was easy to drive compared to the si. I can never get moving smoothly from a stop light without jerking and bucking
I’ve never really had a problem. Sometime the factory flywheel and rev hang makes it awkward to drive when it’s stock
I have an 11th and take offs r fine but a smooth 1-2 can be challenging but im also tunes with rev hang removed. Shifting just shy of 3k seems like the sweet spot
I just got a cobra intake and stopped not worth it to go further. Also got an act clutch because mine was slipping at 37k
How would you feel about putting a B series in a 10th gen? I woke up with this wild ass idea and thought it would be insane, especially since no one has done it yet. I know people would call me insane or delusional but a man could only dream 😂
Sounds like a cool idea but it'll take some work!
Hello Gavin, I just broke a piston in my civic SI and unfortunately I have not found the L15B7 engine of the SI, I bought the one from a L15B7 from a Honda turbo ELX that I got, what consequences or problems will the car give me in the future knowing that it no longer It is the pure SI engine, now I will put the L15B7 of a civic ELX with the OEM SI turbo, please, if you have experience in this it would be very helpful, I thank you
I have already responded to your comment on another video
Why not recommend the accord 2.0? I mean it’s a big body, but it’s been a reliable platform for decent power. Low/mid 400s. Plus you’re using the engine for your swap. Definitely cheaper than a type r
Sure it’s a great option if you want something more mature. There’s a lot of options out there
It is an open diff car that weighs 450 pounds more than the Civic. Depends what you want out of it, but it is a rather different thing.
How difficult was it to locate a type r engine ?
They’re not too uncommon
Do you think it’s even worth modding a 10th Gen Civic with a CVT?
I don't have much experience. I know they are weaker but can still make power.
Good video
Link to pedal relocate?
I think I got it from acuity’s website
The Civic Type R is just such a better platform for modifying than the SI. People who want to substantially modify the SI should just consider the Type R, especially with all of the supporting modifications that are required to get the SI capable of handling that increase in power. The fact that you really SHOULD upgrade the head studs and the clutch prior to doing a whole lot to the SI is a huge issue, at a certain point it just makes more economical sense to buy an FK8. The Fk8 you get better brakes, clutch, suspension, a higher displacement engine, etc. The fk8 really is worth the difference in price compared to the SI for anyone that is considering any substantial modifications.
Yea but still in the end...to each their own
@@XeroFailGames But in the end this is also the physical world with physical constraints, and some decisions are demonstrably better decisions than others. For instance the decision to make a lot of power with a L15 engine I that has tiny bolts that hold the connecting rods together, is probably a bad one. It hurts everybody to see all these companies stating that the l15 can hold more power than it actually can, just so that they can continue to sell car modifications and profit from it.
good vid
No, isn't worth it.
That engine should never be in an SI to begin with.
The SI deserved a detuned version of the accord 2.0t engine.
Fuel diloution kills motors,
throw a mazda 2.3 in it if you wanna get cheap parts & power 👍