Thank you and great video. Getting ready to do this on my sons 2010 Escape this weekend. I wasn't sure about accessing all the mounts and you showed me the way! Subscribed as well!
Excellent excellent video. Thank you my friend. You are the only person showing the one under the battery, so I was beginning to think there were only three. Mine is identical (2012) though. I am very grateful 🙏🏼.
I need to change out the subframe on my wife's 2011 Escape, so I came here looking for info on removing the transaxle mount. She's got the V6, so it might be a tighter squeeze. After seeing this video, it looks like it might be a good idea to be prepared to replace the mounts while I have them out. Great video!
I really appreciate that, thank you! I am curious how much different the V6 is. Please come back and add that info, if you wouldn't mind. The 2.3/2.5 Escapes are pretty easy to work on. I've only worked on one V6, but it was my Brother's and he sold it years ago.
Great question. I supported it from the oil pan. I used a 2X4, spanning across the pan to help equalize the support area as well, and prevent pan damage. Let me know if that makes sense... Thanks!
@@KevinPerez-yg4ky For the two mounts that are near the struts, I just "kissed" the oil pan with a jack and piece of 2X4. I'm not sure that it helped much at all.
Great vid, also a good idea just to do all of them at once since one bad one can increase the wear on the others. Are these the mounts that Ford touted as breaking away in a collision to allow the motor to drop down instead of heading into the cab? Hope your arm heals up!
I'm not certain on that, but it sounds plausible. They changed to a completely different setup in 05. The 01-04's are different. I actually recorded that in December of 2021, so the arm is all better. It did leave a scar, lol.
If I here a clunk noise when shifting into drive or reverse, as well as when down shifting, would the mounted be the most likely cause? It started out of nowhere, and I haven't noticed a difference in the transmission, seems to stop be doing good.
It could be. The best thing to do is have someone shift it (brake on, obviously) for you while you watch and listen under the hood. I'd say you have a pretty high chance of one or more mounts being bad though. When one goes out, it puts a lot more strain on the others. Thanks for watching! Hopefully that helps you?
Great video! Always best to replace them all if you got to do one. I’ve made the mistake of forgetting to disconnect the battery before,at least you avoided stupid! 😆 👊😎🤟
I’ve been working on a duratech one… most the mounts are about the same difficulty except the one transmission mount in the rear, with the transfer case and and everything I feel like I have no space to even get to the bolt that goes through the rubber.
I was having a vibrating braking issue too on my Escape. It went away after I replaced pads and rotors, but I suspect the real culprit was a thick dollop of grease that I found inside the wheel (someone was a little overeager greasing the suspension fittings...). I think it unbalanced the wheel. It's been smooth ever since.
I am having a vibration while braking. I replace the 4 motor supports and pads and rotors and and two front shock absorber still having the same vibration.
I see you have torque specs here. I have a 2003 escape with a 3.0. The driver side trans mount has one vertical bolt for attachment. Also the lower front motor bolt is also vertical which is different than later models. I have looked everywhere to find torque specs but can’t seem to find them. Would you recommend a manual or a site where I can find this info please ?
Ok. I'm stuck 6pm the driver side mount that's under the air box. I got the old out, but I can't get the long bolt that goes through the rubber part of the mount to line up. I loosened all the screws, including the ones you pointed out that you said you did off camera. Any recommendations?
You can try raising the motor with a jack (use a block of wood to span across the pan) and get it in a better position. It's likely the motor is sagging a bit, and this is causing your bolt alignment issue.
Tried that a second time and finally got it. Now onto the passenger side, the bolt that goes down the middle of the rubber, just spins and spins and won't come. Any advice on that? I hate working on cars, not 1 time did a job go the way it's supposed to. 😅
@billhill5181 oh dear! I think you should be able to take off the 4 nuts that hold the pedestal on the motor, then the 3 bolts holding it on the fender apron/subframe, then remove it as an assembly. The I'm guessing the mount is destroyed, and the center is just spinning within the rubber. Hopefully you can get it into a vice or something to get that bolt out! (Hopefully I am understanding you correctly)
Yup, that's what I ended up doing. Sorry for the late reply. Thanks again for all the help. I'm now getting a pretty strong shutter when stopped in drive and more so when stopped in reverse. So I clearly effed something up. You live in Ohio by chance? 😅
Hey, could you tell me what guage wire needed to lengthen my master cyl. low sensor? I know your an electronic pro! I’m guessing 16 gauge. But unsure. Thanks G! 👊😎🤟
I would give it a visual inspection and see how it looks. If the rear was broken, there's a good chance the front is as well. Those two do most of the work. Luckily, the front is the easiest to replace.
@@adribouss I'm glad you went back in and looked at it! That front one is deceiving.... sometimes it has to be removed to see how bad it is. Congrats on a job well done! Thank you for the feedback.
Excellent question! You can torque to spec, absolutely. In this case, I didn't feel it was necessary. I usually only torque to spec on the more intricate nuts/bolts, spark plugs, etc. Thank you for your input!
@@justlg3359 I put both the torque wrenches that I use in links in the video description above. Just below that I also put the torque specs that you requested. Please let me know if you have any other questions! Thanks for the great questions!
It's best if you put something under there to support/balance it for the two that go on the strut towers. The firewall and radiator support mounts, no, you won't need to support it.
Sounds good. Thanks for the video. Firestone gave me an estimate for $1600. I’m going to replace them myself.. it will cost probably just under $100. Thanks again
I'm reaching out good, sir. Because I need to do the same on my 2011. I'm asking do you need anything to hold the motor up with a Jack? As long as you do it to 2 a time or use a Jack to hold the motor up if trying to do all 4 or do them in pairs cause i figured the other mounts hold it in place while changing them
@jsb2cute I've done it both ways. A jack with a 2X4 across the entire oil pan definitely makes it easier. Just remember you are supporting it, no need to lift it unless your jack bleeds off, of course. Thank you... great question!
Thank you and great video. Getting ready to do this on my sons 2010 Escape this weekend. I wasn't sure about accessing all the mounts and you showed me the way! Subscribed as well!
Thank you so much! I appreciate your comments. Let me know if you have any questions.
thank you for adding the part number this made it easy for me. instead of ordering one part at a time.
Absolutely! Glad to help!
Thanks
Great lesson for Ford escape owner's like me
Thank you! I appreciate it!
Excellent excellent video. Thank you my friend. You are the only person showing the one under the battery, so I was beginning to think there were only three. Mine is identical (2012) though. I am very grateful 🙏🏼.
@@abemaysonet7291 you're very welcome. It's the hardest of the four, for sure. But very doable with a little patience. Thanks for watching!
Sir, you are the MAN! Great video and thank you so much!
Thank you, I'm very glad it helped you out. I appreciate the feedback 🙏
Good instructions. I like the youre approach to every thing. Just get it done and be done.
I need to change out the subframe on my wife's 2011 Escape, so I came here looking for info on removing the transaxle mount. She's got the V6, so it might be a tighter squeeze. After seeing this video, it looks like it might be a good idea to be prepared to replace the mounts while I have them out. Great video!
I really appreciate that, thank you! I am curious how much different the V6 is. Please come back and add that info, if you wouldn't mind. The 2.3/2.5 Escapes are pretty easy to work on. I've only worked on one V6, but it was my Brother's and he sold it years ago.
Good job, even though a little rookie mistakes but you've learned and showed what not to do.
Thanks for the quick tips. 💜🙏👍
Thank you for watching and commenting! Much appreciated.
Excellent job!!! You made it easy to follow and detailed every little nuance. 😊
Thank you so much for the great feedback!
Excellent tutorial!
Thank you very much!
Hello, a question when you changed this last support, did you raise the transmission or the Engine.
Great question. I supported it from the oil pan. I used a 2X4, spanning across the pan to help equalize the support area as well, and prevent pan damage. Let me know if that makes sense... Thanks!
Great video. I never knew the escape had 4 engine mounts. Also, watch that battery lol
Hahahaha.... yeah, that battery definitely got overlooked. Felt a bit dumb about it.
Love it brother, thanks for the great instructions
I appreciate the feedback. Thank you, and let me know if you have any questions!
Did you put something under the trans/motor to keep it from moving when you remove the mounts?
@@KevinPerez-yg4ky For the two mounts that are near the struts, I just "kissed" the oil pan with a jack and piece of 2X4. I'm not sure that it helped much at all.
Great vid, also a good idea just to do all of them at once since one bad one can increase the wear on the others. Are these the mounts that Ford touted as breaking away in a collision to allow the motor to drop down instead of heading into the cab? Hope your arm heals up!
I'm not certain on that, but it sounds plausible. They changed to a completely different setup in 05. The 01-04's are different.
I actually recorded that in December of 2021, so the arm is all better. It did leave a scar, lol.
Hope your arm heals up ok... great vid man.
It left a scar... but that's it.
If I here a clunk noise when shifting into drive or reverse, as well as when down shifting, would the mounted be the most likely cause? It started out of nowhere, and I haven't noticed a difference in the transmission, seems to stop be doing good.
It could be. The best thing to do is have someone shift it (brake on, obviously) for you while you watch and listen under the hood. I'd say you have a pretty high chance of one or more mounts being bad though. When one goes out, it puts a lot more strain on the others. Thanks for watching! Hopefully that helps you?
Damn that was funny; sounded like you were singing an '80s love ballad!😂
Lol... thank you!
Looks like a fun project.
Yeah... it's a fun one. At least I didn't break any bolts on this one.
@@89G that’s a plus. I worry about that with my vehicles
Nice work man.
Much appreciated! Thank you, and I sincerely appreciate the feedback.
Great video! Always best to replace them all if you got to do one. I’ve made the mistake of forgetting to disconnect the battery before,at least you avoided stupid! 😆
👊😎🤟
Hahahaha.... yeah, it could have been a lot worse. Thanks Buddy!
Nice video.
@@pcranger1 thanks so much! I appreciate the feedback 🙏
I’ve been working on a duratech one… most the mounts are about the same difficulty except the one transmission mount in the rear, with the transfer case and and everything I feel like I have no space to even get to the bolt that goes through the rubber.
Oh dang... so is it AWD too? O wondered how much different they would be. Thanks for bringing that into the discussion! Much appreciated 👏
Did you still leave the engine supported when changing out that lower rear mount? The one with the aligning studs.
Great question! Yes I did. I just a block of wood and my floor jack is all that I used.
Great buey exccelent video
Thank you very much!
Did changing those mounts make it smoother in drive while applying brake? My escape vibrates alot in drive while pressing the brake.
Mine would squeak more than vibrate, but it did get smoother for sure. The one closest to the firewall had some metal on metal rubbing.
I was having a vibrating braking issue too on my Escape. It went away after I replaced pads and rotors, but I suspect the real culprit was a thick dollop of grease that I found inside the wheel (someone was a little overeager greasing the suspension fittings...). I think it unbalanced the wheel. It's been smooth ever since.
I am having a vibration while braking. I replace the 4 motor supports and pads and rotors and and two front shock absorber still having the same vibration.
learn a lot ,Tks .....
You are very welcome! Thanks for the feedback and support!
I see you have torque specs here. I have a 2003 escape with a 3.0. The driver side trans mount has one vertical bolt for attachment. Also the lower front motor bolt is also vertical which is different than later models. I have looked everywhere to find torque specs but can’t seem to find them. Would you recommend a manual or a site where I can find this info please ?
I have a manual that I can send you if you tell me where to send it to.
@@89Goh wow. That would be great. Email or physical address ?
Coffee and 89G. Morning it set to go.
Right on! Thanks Twister!
Ok. I'm stuck 6pm the driver side mount that's under the air box. I got the old out, but I can't get the long bolt that goes through the rubber part of the mount to line up. I loosened all the screws, including the ones you pointed out that you said you did off camera. Any recommendations?
You can try raising the motor with a jack (use a block of wood to span across the pan) and get it in a better position. It's likely the motor is sagging a bit, and this is causing your bolt alignment issue.
Tried that a second time and finally got it. Now onto the passenger side, the bolt that goes down the middle of the rubber, just spins and spins and won't come. Any advice on that? I hate working on cars, not 1 time did a job go the way it's supposed to. 😅
@billhill5181 oh dear! I think you should be able to take off the 4 nuts that hold the pedestal on the motor, then the 3 bolts holding it on the fender apron/subframe, then remove it as an assembly. The I'm guessing the mount is destroyed, and the center is just spinning within the rubber. Hopefully you can get it into a vice or something to get that bolt out! (Hopefully I am understanding you correctly)
Yup, that's what I ended up doing. Sorry for the late reply. Thanks again for all the help. I'm now getting a pretty strong shutter when stopped in drive and more so when stopped in reverse. So I clearly effed something up. You live in Ohio by chance? 😅
@@billhill5181 Unfortunately, no, lol. I'm in Utah. Did you replace all 4, or just the 2 we talked about so far?
Hey, could you tell me what guage wire needed to lengthen my master cyl. low sensor? I know your an electronic pro! I’m guessing 16 gauge. But unsure. Thanks G!
👊😎🤟
You mean on the Fox? I think it's actually 14 from factory.
I replaced the rear mount and the vibrations vanished. Do I still need to do the front mount?
I would give it a visual inspection and see how it looks. If the rear was broken, there's a good chance the front is as well. Those two do most of the work. Luckily, the front is the easiest to replace.
@@89G Good. As I'm not a mechanic I just followed your video to do the rear mount. I'll do it again for the front. Thanks a lot.
@@adribouss you're very welcome!
@@89G I finally did the front mount yesterday and it was also worn out.
@@adribouss I'm glad you went back in and looked at it! That front one is deceiving.... sometimes it has to be removed to see how bad it is. Congrats on a job well done! Thank you for the feedback.
12:46😮😮😮
I feel you! Lol
why didn't you replace the roll restrictor/ torque mount?
Not sure what you're talking about? I did all 4 mounts... they're all in the video.
Thank you
You bet!
Thanks
You bet!
Should u torque it to spec too?
Excellent question! You can torque to spec, absolutely. In this case, I didn't feel it was necessary. I usually only torque to spec on the more intricate nuts/bolts, spark plugs, etc. Thank you for your input!
@@89G by the way which torque wrench do you recommend?
@@89G or what is the torque specs for it?
@@justlg3359 I put both the torque wrenches that I use in links in the video description above. Just below that I also put the torque specs that you requested. Please let me know if you have any other questions! Thanks for the great questions!
helpful info
Thank you!
PS, I love the music 🎶 🎉😇😆
Ha! It is extremely difficult to find music that is decent, and has no copyright issues. 😂
Nice.
Thank you!
Do you need to jack the engine? Or can I replace them without supporting the engine?
It's best if you put something under there to support/balance it for the two that go on the strut towers. The firewall and radiator support mounts, no, you won't need to support it.
Sounds good. Thanks for the video. Firestone gave me an estimate for $1600. I’m going to replace them myself.. it will cost probably just under $100. Thanks again
@@ahmedalkayssi2585 wow, that's ridiculous! Good luck, and feel free to ask any questions. I put links in the description for the mounts that I use.
@@89G thanks!! I appreciate your reply. I will work on it sometimes this week. I will let you know how it goes. Much appreciated
Do you think the Amazon parts as good as the one autozoon sells or Oreilly
Toby Flenderson?
Hey, that's great! I'll take that as a compliment. Never had anyone say that before, thank you!
@@89G no disrespect intended. Your video was perfect and helped me complete my fiancé mazda tribute
@@ericlewin4390 No worries at all, I thought it was pretty cool. Thank you for the feedback on your Tribute fix!
I'm reaching out good, sir. Because I need to do the same on my 2011. I'm asking do you need anything to hold the motor up with a Jack? As long as you do it to 2 a time or use a Jack to hold the motor up if trying to do all 4 or do them in pairs cause i figured the other mounts hold it in place while changing them
@jsb2cute I've done it both ways. A jack with a 2X4 across the entire oil pan definitely makes it easier. Just remember you are supporting it, no need to lift it unless your jack bleeds off, of course. Thank you... great question!
@@89G thanks bro really helpfull video thanks alot you earned a like and a sub
@@jsb2cute much appreciated! I am so glad it helped you out.