Intake Manifold and Gasket Preparation and Installation
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- Опубликовано: 18 дек 2013
- Handymanpf.com
In this video I show you how to prepare and clean an engine for the installation of the intake gaskets. I also show the placement of the intake manifold itself on top of the engine. I hope this video helps. Please help fund for future how to videos and reviews. Every little bit helps. Thank you / handymanpf Handyman Problem Fixer
@handymanproblemfixer #handymanproblemfixer #handyman @handyman 
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Thanks for the video, big help. One suggestion to keep things a little cleaner is to use a shop vac to remove the paper towels. That way you don't risk letting any debris slipping through while you pull them out.
Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment. That is an excellent idea about the shop vac.
I was thinking sponges may be better than paper towels and clean and reuse them next time. would a old towel be better to put over the valley instead of newspaper?
^ what he said re vacuum...
Does anybody recommend taking out the oil drain plug and pouring some oil on top of the block to flush out any of the chucks that got in the oil passages?
First, shade-tree men (I like you guys), compressed air is not needed for this job. Second, intake gaskets do not "blow". Intake manifold gaskets deteriorate over time. The paper thing (Handyman I am not disrespecting your ability sir) is overkill. Small particles will not be stopped by paper. Wet the paper first to make particles stick to the paper (if you use this process). Ultimately all garbage will end up in the oil pan because you are gonna spray that crap off with straight brake cleaner. Couple cans will do it. After mating surfaces are cleaned, brake clean is gonna be applied generously. Leaves no residue and flushes that crap to the pan. Just remove ALL large particles first. The abrasive disc is awesome, but GM stopped using these discs 15 years ago because they remove metal (uneven mating surfaces=poor mating). GM makes a green plastic "fingered" disc that works great and removes no metal. Of course use a scraper to remove everything you can first. Any tiny particles WILL be hammered in combustion chambers. GM recommends a 1/4" bead of sealant. "Nice and thick" is a mess, but do what makes you comfortable after knowing spec. Make sure sealant is below and above all 4 gasket end tab edges (corners) where the head meets the intake manifold. Let that sealant sit for 5 minutes for tackiness. Carefully install the intake so as not to disturb the sealant too much back and forth. Let the intake sit for another ten minutes. Install intake bolts. I use a light coat (LIGHT) of anti-seize (never use Loctite ever, ever, ever, ever, ever except for flex-plate or suspension bolts). Anti seize will not cause bolts to back out once proper torque is applied. Torque the bolts to spec using a 3 stage torque technique. Divide final torque by 3 and apply each increment to the bolts in sequence. Change the oil and filter. Any crap left over WILL be caught in filter. Change oil and filter at your interval and all will be well. Good time to flush coolant, but not necessary. 18 yr ASE certified GM Tech. I have performed this job at least 150 times on different engines and different makes. You know where to send questions if you need credentials. Peace and have fun.
Thanks, I greatly appreciate your comment. Thanks for watching and commenting. Please like share and subscribe. I like positive comments because they help me improve. Thanks again bud
SMDH. The 3M roloc discs were stopped because of silicon (not silicone) contamination. The 3M Bristles discs were manufactured to stop the silicon contamination that we were seeing in oil analyses back in the early 90s. In theory a powered surface prep tool should really never be used as they all remove surface metal. A straight edge razor blade and a 3M scotch-brite pad are the best for surface cleaning. All bolts should be installed and torqued DRY unless otherwise stated by the designing engineer. Lubricants on threads affect the torque ratings so when you add anything to the threads it changes the actual torque applied to the bolts.
And NEVER let garbage fall into a motor. Who would even suggest such a thing?!?!?! Flush it down to the pan with brake cleaner???? Seriously? In the field it happens, but to deliberately just let things fall in a motor?? Your certs should be revoked. 18 years........
Phil, what would be the cost to do this at a dealer? I have my 95 and it also needs a valve gaskets.
@@juliopecho Howdy Julio! The dealer tech. will charge around 3.5 - 4.5 hrs. labor only @ $100/hr. minus parts, sealant, oil & filter, and coolant + handling fee. Around $600 - $850 total. Rocker cover gaskets will be part of the repair. Labor and parts will be guaranteed. Peace.
@@QuarterMileCrazy what about bolts that screw into coolant passages?
Oh man watched your video- thanks man
That cleaning technique is absolutely savage......
I love it when a fellow Shade Tree Mechanic posts a video like this and totally screws it up for two reasons: 1) I enjoy the warm, fuzzy feeling I get when I judge this guy to be an inferior mechanic to me, and 2) Invariably, someone who actually knows the proper way to do the job chimes in.
Guaranteed nobody is inferior to you. Haha. That’s all in your head, people probably bite their tongues and hold back because a person will never win a conversation with a stupid person. That warm fuzzy feeling you got in your stomach is probably from all the liquor you drank. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@handymanPF nah.... you should be instructed before you attempt an instructional video.....
So much wrong here. .. try again
You did a decent job, power tools aren't the best idea when doing it but they do speed up the process. A handy straight razor and some gasket remover are a better idea. You'll be able to control the debri a little better then flinging it all over the place. A microfiber towel would be ideal for laying in the oil galley, it's flexible and lint free. Just thought I might comment for the average joe do it yourselfer...main thing is take your time, don't get careless, and keep EVERYTHING clean
I see alot of comments about cleaning. as that is ideal, these old engines are pretty forgiving. you can build them in the yard under a tree and get lots of miles. I'm js lol
+Jacob Joyner you are right. But cleaning it isn't a bad idea. These old engines are diehards. I love them. Thanks for watching and commenting, I greatly appreciate it. Please like, share, and subscribe.
Great video
Thank you for watching and commenting. I greatly appreciate it. Please like share and subscribe and hit the notification bell 🔔.
I can read the funnies while I am working on my car lol!!
Great video! was there pitting around those coolant ports that you had to resurface? my engine has pitting after I used a block and sand paper. They are pretty deep. felpro says not to use rtv around those ports.
Awesome thanks very helpful
Thank you 🙏 for watching and commenting. I greatly appreciate your support. Please like 👍 share and subscribe.
Good job
Thank you and thanks for watching and commenting. Please like share and subscribe.
The sealant when applied needs to set up for a good 7-10mins before dropping your manifold on..It will be tacky. Put all your bolts in finger tight then walk away for another 10mins..then the gasket maker is ready..torque it down and wait over night..your local shop gets paid by the hour to rush it...dont rush it.
WRONG - Read the Permatex RTV or Loctite - No Tack up
Nah.... read the instructions fur whatever "gasket make" bs you are using.....
I would have used a shop vac...to pull the paper tells out ..and the gunk hahahah
I have a 1994 chevy impala ss. I am replacing the intake gasket just dont know if i am supposed to put some kind of gasket sealant to the bolt?
Thank you for sharing your time and methods to make this video. Very informative and educational.
what if the engine has been sitting with the intake off for a while? do you think should i vacuum it out real well first. idk why they left it open like that but they did.
Thread locker!!! I guess that was the last time you did those gaskets! I bet there was heaps of that silicone floating around in the valley, would've just oozed off inside as soon as you bolted it down.
It was the last time I did those gaskets is correct, because I’m still driving it today with no problems. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Thank you sir for sharing your knowledge
I’m glad you found it useful. I greatly appreciate your comment. Please like share and subscribe.
i drop some little water to the engin whail sucking up the dirt from surface with vacuum cleaner ,should i change my oil before install the gasket ?tnx
Good video.... The only thing i see wrong , is the red loctite on the bolts. You have to heat that stuff up to get it off.
I thought the same... I know you don't really need to use it.
Giggity. 😈
If that's the only thing you see wrong, I'm glad you aren't my mechanic
Have you a video how do you take everything of?
I noticed that your new intake doesn't have water passages in the rear, but your head has them in the rear, will that cause any issues by blocking that off? P.S im very new to building mortars and just started a 318 mopar mor my first build.
Great video thanks
11:00
When you blow the cylinder intake areas with your compressed air hose, doesn't the dirt go down into the lifter valley? Do you think the newspaper covering the lifter area is going to keep the dust, dirt, and grim from falling into the lifter valley? And when you pull up the newspaper up, do you think the newspaper will cause the dirt, dust and grim to stick to it and not fall into the lifter valley? Same thing with the paper towels stuck into the intake ports. Maybe if you used a vacuum cleaner hose when you pull the paper towels out of the ports would keep the dust and dirt from getting into the lifter valley and on into the oiling system of the engine? The newspaper covering the lifter valley is worthless.
Get it wet when your done with wd40 and the small particles will stick. Thanks for your concern and thanks for watching and commenting.
Seems logical using a shop vac (in this scenario) would suck the contaminates and the paper tissue without issue.
ON THAT STYLE INTAKE GASKET I PUT A THIN COAT OF SILICONE ON THE END OF THE GASKET FROM THE CORNER UP TO THE BOLT HOLE ON BOTH ENDS OF EACH HEAD, JUST OUTBOARD OF THE COOLANT PASSAGE. FOUR PLACES TOTAL THAT CONNECTS TO THE THICK LAYER OF SILICONE ON THE CHINA RAIL. I FIND THAT THIS HELPS TO PREVENT THE VERY SMALL OIL SEEPAGE ON A SHOW QUALITY PAINTED ENGINE THAT DOES NOT HURT ANYTHING BUT JUST CATCHES DIRT AND MAKES IT LOOK DIRTY. I ALSO PEPPER THE CHINA RAIL WITH A PIN PUNCH TO HELP GRIP THE SILICONE.
NOAH DUNAWAY why are you yelling?
Quit yelling dumb ass
Do I have to redo my timing while putting the distributor back on? Or can I just mark my timing on the distributor and the manifold?
mark it before taking it off. Mark where u rotor button points. and where you coil is on the distributor according to something on the intake somewhere
Not a bad job but there are always things you can improve. Let the RTV tack up for 5 mins prior to intall. Use long threaded studs to line up the intake manifold perfectly and NEVER move the manifold like you did after lowering it. My way assures its lined up perfectly and will plot down and never have to be adjusted also I get the matting surfaces just as clean without the abrasion.
Are you saying to purchase some long threaded studs (same size as the ones that secure it when all said and done) that fit in the block temporarily while you lower the intake? I have never done this before so I want to make sure I completely understand. The lowering of the intake is one thing that makes me nervous about this task. My gaskets are supposed to be put on dry and I am concerned about movement when lowering the intake.
Thanks
shawn lusk, yes,long studs are a GREAT help( only for manifs with the 8 VERTICAL bolts,of course)
@@josepeixoto3384 so this stud buisness wont work on a gen 1 small block? I was thinking about looking into some type of headless Allen grub bolt or cup type might work.
I thought you a custom intake valley pan😂
I whisk I watched this before I started. Now I have a wetvac filled with nasty stuff.
Nice vid man , im doing mine right now, ive noticed some prestone that falls off (i had it drained before) what you do with that? run it a lil than change oil?
If antifreeze mixes with the oil, DO NOT run the engine. You have to change the oil. You should change the oil after a job like this regardless. The antifreeze is not good for the engine , it works as a corrosive on the bearings and will destroy your engine. I would like to thank you for the compliment and comment. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching, please like, share, and subscribe.
You know what i mean, theres some holes down there goes to the cam? so is the antifreeze fall all its way down? or some left where the cam sit? i have to do my stem seals so maybe its a good idea to remove push rods and put oil in these holes?
Have you had this problem too when you removed it? I should have placed oil there before installing the manifold back, hate myself :/
@@handymanPF ya runit for bit to move all the debris into filer and flush through system a bit, then drain oil for day or 2 so evrything settles back, button it up with new filter and oil
why are the lifters on one side so much darker? Seems like it may be not be getting as much oil to that side.
The pcv connects adjacent to that area
Is it possible to clean the valley without removing the engine from the truck?
What is the correct tightening torque? Thanks
Do. You need to remove the distributor for this replacement ?
Yes.
I changed the video once I saw u using a grinder wheel to the block
Wasn’t a grinding wheel, it was a scouring pad to clean up old gasket material. I’ve been using that for years and had no problem. Regardless, thanks for watching and commenting. I greatly appreciate it
it is called a ro-lok sanding disc made by 3m
What should I do if there are some deep scratches on the manifold mating surface on the head? they don't cross the inner gasket area but still worry me
With out visual inspection, I couldn’t tell you. I would recommend a professional inspect and advise it for you. Thanks for watching and commenting. Please like share and subscribe
Will a bad intake manifold gasket cause oil to leak into my coolant?
Thanks in advance
Yes.
@@handymanPF Thanks.
So it isn't always necessarily the head gasket, basically.
Saves me a bundle...whew!
Dude you need to show how you opened that intake manifold I'm scared to do it cus of the fuel injectors
don't be intimidated, just take a picture of all sides and angles if you've never done it, so you can see where everything goes, then start removing slowly. Remember to drain the coolant before loosening lower intake bolts...well before anything.
+Justin C thanks bro. I gathered courage and pulled it off
This engine has a spider fuel injection system that sits in the upper intake and runs to each port through the lower. If you have a 5.7 vortec all you have to do is remove the plug ontop and the rest will be fine.
using that tool could cause a larger gap by removing metal so you may cause your own leak. I clean with brake cleaner or Carb cleaner and never experience ant leaks and I done many of these jobs
Result in premature engine failure too,GM has a TSB on this called not to use those rolac discs.GM found out there were techs doing this improper cleaning procedure and come back with the premature engine failures.The little pieces get in the oil which the oil filter can't trap and the engine becomes a ticking time bomb.
Did this a few days ago and I put sealant around the water jackets on mine to have a little more extra piece of mind that they don't blow again. Mine had previously been done with the old style gaskets before I got it. I wouldn't use them, the metal core ones are far better made. If you have pitting around the water jackets then I'd definitely put some sealant around them though. It might seal and hold for now without it, but it's better to be safe than sorry and have to do all that work all over again.
Why not use a shop vac rather than blowing the stuff down the manifold intakes? Just a thought..
That is a great idea👍 thanks for watching and commenting. I greatly appreciate it.
That grinder is taking off material. Not a good choice for cleaning the heads and intake. Although is works great for cleaning ... but NOT for this application where the two surfaces mate together, these two surfaces have to be laser straight....
Where did u get spec sheet from with
repair manual for the vehicle
what brand are gaskets where to buy?
What Ron said lol
Why did you pull the valve covers?
I was doing more then just the intake gasket on it.
aren't you supposed to put a thin lining of gasket maker underneath the new gaskets?
Some people do, a lot don’t. I just put very little on and I mean a very small amount to hold it in place. I prefer to put my gaskets on dry. But I always highly recommend following the manufacturers specifications. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching and commenting. Please like share and subscribe
Where did you get 5he gasket and do you have a link or a gasket number much appreciated
Sure thing and no problem. amzn.to/3ado9AS
Thanks for watching and commenting. Please like share and subscribe
Instead of blowing with air I think a shop vacuum would have been a better idea.
QUESTION?? TURNING MY IGNITION FROM OFF TO START MY ENGINE WILL START HOLDING THE IGNITION AT START THE ENGINE WILL RUN, HOWEVER ONCE I LET GO THE IGNITION TURNS BACK TO ON BIT THE ENGINE WILL TURN OFF. ANY IDEAS?
kiixg viikk vacuum leak not enough fuel too much air
kiixg viikk fix it? Could also be solonoid or wiring
Is that 350 chevy engine
+apple Smith yes
Its a farm truck engine you'll thro'er in shock if ur to clean If a little small shit falls in its ok its either in the pan or out the exhaust
0:01 - Should be "PrepAration". "Preperation" is not a word.
I typed in on why some intake gaskets are thicker than others and all I get is videos on how to install a intake manifold and there is no mention of thickness difference. Is this top secret government information!
Does anyone know what intake gaskets those are? Part number please and brand name ?
The best ones to use are from felpro MS 98000T them are the best an will have No issues at all jegs sells them
Never use thread locker on intake manifold bolts. Teflon thread sealer that is designed for automotive use only. Not plumbing Teflon.
Clean both mating surfaces (block side and manifold side) that are to be sealed by RTV with lacquer thinner on clean rag twice, immediately before applying sealant. RTV/Silicone sealer does not stick to oily surfaces. This is critical. Don't use carb cleaner for this final cleaning, it leaves an oily residue. Never tried brake cleaner but Lacquer thinner works very well. Going for surgical clean. Make sure your hands are clean and dry first also. If you have to move manifold after you have set it down on engine, pull it out, clean everything off and start over. Go strait down on and don't move it, unless you don't mind oil leaks.
Thanks for watching and commenting. I greatly appreciate it. Brake clean works great. We use it to clean off the old sticker residue from inspection stickers on the inside of a windshield. It gets it nice clean and dry for the new sticker. I also use it for the rear view mirror replacement of the button when it falls off. Great results. Thanks for watching and commenting. Please like share and subscribe.
Hey xman, Finally found ya, had to factory reset, do u copy (railrider)
@@railriderrider9192 Yes, I'm all over these S-10 videos, well, a lot of them. Factory reset? Please explain.
@@x-man5056 on my PHONE. ..😂
Sorry...wasn't specific
wtf i cant get my new manifold to fit
Never use a 3M pad it removes metal makes surface uneven. Have had to have heads milled 10 to 20 thousandths after people have used a 3M pad to clean up surface. And never ever use on aluminum.
It does if you have a heavy hand and hold it at the wrong angle. I’m not surprised that you had mill a lot of heads because of this. Were they aluminum heads that people mainly scored too deep with the pads?
Way off the subject as far as an example how to video for installing an intake manifold gasket but how did you fix that egr hose? I had to cut mine too and keep arguing with myself on how to repair it.
I don’t think you should use red lock tight.
You are correct. I should of used blue ( medium strength ) amzn.to/3yiYNvy.
Did you just use red lock tight on an intake???.....yes no
Grizzly Rams it’s black RTV
Grizzly Rams OMG yes he did!!! That's a no no!!
Ultra grey is a way better product in my opinion.
Or even optimum grey which can withstand 700 degrees F. It is also by permatex and you can purchase safe and securely here
amzn.to/2PyCYD0
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Don't ever take a grinder to an engine
I seen the air & stopped watching.
Good idea Alaxander!!!!!!!!!!!
The only reason i open this video was to see the torque specs 😂😂😂🤦🏻🤦🏻🤦🏻
Did you find them?
You didn't clean the threads out.. You will NEVER get an accurate torque...
Southern Bucks what do you mean by that, like the bolts them selves or in the engine?
@@aaronhall1984 He might be blowing smoke in any case I've never ever heard that you need to do that. Might be a good idea, might be overly knit-picky
@@geoffmiller3468 it's absolutely recommended. Same reason you use a wire brush on a drill to clean off the threads on the bolts. It make sure all the bolts torque evenly. There's always old sealer in the bolt holes and that's what you're trying to clean out.
Sorry, but this is more of a video of how not to prepare and swap out a manifold gaskets.