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4.3 Vortec Intake Gasket Replacement Guide Detailed
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- Опубликовано: 9 апр 2014
- Your guide to replacing faulty intake gaskets on the 4.3 Vortec engine. This is specifically for the 4.3 in a 99' Silverado, but should be very similar to Blazer/Jimmy's. Notes and links below:
Intake Bolt Torque Pattern
i.imgur.com/au2...
Distributor is easy to remove, one bolt, but make sure you mark the position of the rotor in relation to the distributor base and re-install in the same position (don't spin the engine either).
Update 1/11/2020: Still going no issues
Update 4/16/2022: It got a rear main, front seal, and oil pan gasket. Still runs like a dream.
Royalty Free / Creative Commons music is credited. Other music is licensed by Mega Mechatronics for non-exclusive worldwide perpetual use.
*This video is for educational purposes only, Mega Mechatronics cannot be held liable for damaged parts, loss of equipment, and personal injury or death, related to the information contained in this video and the scope of information expressed.
Good video. For anyone doing this more recently, there are now gaskets with steel backing to prevent the gaskets from deforming and leaking. The OEM is paper. Which is the main reason they start leaking. I would recommend only installed the new style gaskets with the metal plate in them. If you use the paper gaskets, you will have problems again.
Absolutely. FelPro Perma Dry, for those who may need it. Best lower intake gasket you can put on that engine - I did mine and also did a complete top end rebuild on the 350 ( the 4.3's big brother) in my Tahoe with the Perma Dry kit also. I can't imagine better gaskets for these engines.
@@robertsmith8632fel pro makes both the plastic "frame" gaskets as well as a metal "frame" gasket. The metal ones are a bit more but essentially it's the last time it will need to be done..... So honestly, choose accordingly. (I personally use "the right stuff" gasket maker)
So I'm just watching this to get a refresher and I don't remember removing the power steering/compressor bracket..... Looking at it now, why don't people just lop off the corner of the a/c bracket, it doesn't need no 4 bolts holding it on!
THANKS SO MUCH - this video and one other one on RUclips gave me the confidence to tackle this job. Every time I thought I was overwhelmed I said in a very deep voice, "Mega Mechatronics!!" I used the Mahle gasket with the metal frame. They said in the instructions that came with it not to use sealant on the gasket....so I didn't but I don't see what it could hurt....Your video was so informative, I must have watched it 3 times, and made notes. I owe ya a beer!!!
Such a great video, thank you very much for this. About to do the LIM Gasket on my Astro and after watching this I feel way more confident in myself. Seems like I've already come very close to opening the engine up to that point anyway, just the intake bolts and I'll be there!
Know it's a good video when he opened with the new balances
They're not NBs, they're SidewayZ's
Excellent work! Great attention to detail to insure no leaks.
About to take on this job with a little 2000 GMC Jimmy I picked up for almost nothing. If this solves the issue, you're my hero! 😄. Mine is leaking so bad when you put coolant in over a certain point on the radiator, it pours right out of the oil pan! If the plug is out of course. Great video for DIY. Good work!
TarmacTV same thing with my 2000 GMC Jimmy. I really do hope it’s just the intake gasket and not the head gasket. I had antifreeze, water and oil all mixed together in my oil pan. when filling the radiator up to do a coolant compression test, the radiator wouldn’t fill up and it all went to oil pan and started coming out of my air box and down my frame.
I’m having the same problem. How did you fixed it ?
Allen Hoffman did you find your problem? And how did you fixed it ? Thanks in advance
Miguel Ceja This is TarmacTV’s other account. My issue was in fact the intake gasket. Swapped that out, did a really good oil flush, and everything was fine.
Allen Hoffman thanks
If you clean the pitted surface around the water jacket use jb weld to filling the pitted area and sand flat you need no silicone.
VERY Important to remove and install distributor correctly so research that Before starting.
I grab hoses with a pair of pliers around the end of the pipe and turn them back and forth.
start slow and move it a little more each turn
Almosr always works without hurting the hose
and yes strait normal pliers almost always work on hose clamps
What needs to be done to remove the distributor and put back ?
This weekend I tried the tare the engine apart.So far the AC bracket is giving me the blues. I tried squeezing between the bracket,and the pulley. I got the screws loose, but it didn't move or shake. so I got frustrated and notched the bracket,and fought the intake to get out. Now Im trying to figure out how to get that bracket lose, and get those screws tight?
So far I have the intake out, and cleaned the bottom half. Now i have to wait until the intake come in, and try to replace everything, and pray to god it start.
There is no god. You're better off praying to youtube
pick tool =Cotter pin remover, standard pliers = slip joint pliers. If you are keeping vehicle best to replace all old hoses removed in this process while you have access and coolant is removed. Also, if you have original central point injection change to upgrade multi point injector spider. Kits from about $150 to $250. Worth every penny, better performance, idle, MPG. You've got it all apart anyway.
I'm very new to working on cars. I only change oil tires and brakes. I've been loosing antifreeze for a few months and when I went to change the oil it was a thicker funky caramel color.
Brett Lott what ended up happening?
Either Valve head gasket blown or only intake gasket or both of them are bad.
Once the gasket is blown bad enough you will have a horrible coolant leak like mine , almost seemed like a head gasket but it was intake manifold !
The gasket set states in bold letters not to use sealer on it... I rebuilt my engine and after 600 mile it all of a sudden started laying a smoke screen and using about a quart every 150~300 miles, after much testing I have come to conclusion that it is the intake manifold gasket. I installed the last one exactly the way you did in this video and when I took back off you can see where the sealant caused the gasket to warp at the bottoms. This time I also bought the FelPro gasket made of metal and what a world of difference these 2 sets are.
+Michael Clemmons Id like to know also if I should or shouldnt use RTV. Because in the Haynes manual it says to apply RTV to part of the gasket, but then again thats probly with the understanding that youre replacing with the OEM gaskets which are different from the Felpro which I am installing.
+BikeLifeHooligan In theory, the gasket doesn't need any RTV. In practice, it won't hurt the gasket or the seal to apply a very THIN layer of Black RTV around the water ports. This will provide a little bit of insurance against future. leaks. The most important piece of the job is doing up the manifold bolts in three rounds in the order specified to the torque specs. And check them a fourth time.
i know thos is old but you apply the rtv to the 4 end corners of the intale gaskets... if not theres a 99% chance it will leak. ive done at least 30 of them.
+SPLATTER HOUZE I have the same experience with leak prevention although I haven't done quite so many of these repairs. :-)
ITs a must! not just on these but on most intake jobs.
There are two rubber gaskets, (seals?0 that go on the manifold also. One goes on the front of the manifold, and one goes on the back. Did you omit those. or are they not needed?
You can use those, but according to the old guys, a big bead of silicone never fails and I have never had a problem either; but you must degrease the surfaces.
Great Video
Have a Jimmy 2000. Helped tremendously, first time doing intake manifold. Must the distributor be removed and getting to the fuel line is a miracle.
I notice on Chevy they did not have to remove the distributor.
The distributor goes through the lower intake so it must be removed. I hope you research distributor removal resources so you know not to spin it after removal, otherwise it'll never run.
a question for you? I'm experiencing water in my oil,and is happening at a fast rate,why did you first suspect the intake? I've done a compression test,check plugs for residue,and even dye tested the radiation for exhaust fumes. the engine idles good with a little stumble under acceleration, any ideas? also I rolled the engine over without plugs in while warm,and full of coolant and no coolant came out of cylinders.thanks for any help.
+Neal Cummings I suspected the intake gaskets because it is a very common problem with the 4.3 around 1999 with the new generation coolant. This video could very well have been a "how to replace the head gaskets". My 1996 Blazer with the 4.3 Vortec does not have intake failure issues.
pressure test cyclenders/if ok.. probly is intake gasket leak! most the time:its the back of intake.. close to distributor! can feel for air leak.. while engine running... gaskets start break down after like 8 to 10 yr... and as weakens it blows out at random age.... also allum heads tend to just crack.. after older
The mystery to me is, why do I have to use RTV around the coolant passages (which it seems i will have to), when the factory didn't use RTV and everything ran fine? I replaced the head gaskets on my son's 4.3 V6 Silverado in which the kit came with the intake gaskets and exhaust manifold gaskets. I used RTV on the front and rear rail before mounting the intake. We decided to pour coolant down the thermostat housing before installing the radiator hose. Then before firing it up went to drain the old oil, and mostly fresh coolant came out! Hadn't even fired up the truck yet! Is the reason why, because I didn't add RTV to the intake gasket coolant passage??
1990's engineering and technology caused the failures. Combine that with being "traumatized", I added sillycone to help me sleep, a person problem.
well detailed and excellent video. thank you for the effort in making and it's very helpful. just one comment. don't know if you did or didn't, use spray silicone on hoses to remove them. oil based lubricants can deteriorate the hoses.
I agree the preference is for sure silicone spray on these hoses. We all bend the rules sometimes but the goal should be to move in the right direction, like Step 1 buy the can of silicone spray hehe
Flush the coolant and oil at the same time by having a blown head gasket, it's not broken, it's a new feature!
please use the improved metal shim intake gaskets!!!!! they still sell the plastic ones that will blow out around the cooling ports. and you need to use a inch pounds torque wrench to tighten down the intake bolts.
Torque spec is not so critical with the metal gaskets, so long as they're even and a bit over the spec. It is critical with the plastic ones, but now that they have metal gaskets, nobody should use the plastic ones any more. They were not a good idea!
Great video amigo! Will be very helpful. Tackling this job in a few days. Literally have coolant spraying from the top of the engine from under the a/c bracket on my '01 Jimmy. Thanks for making & posting.
Did you also have an external leak pooling on top of your head?
Could this also be the reason for the white smoke out of the tailpipe; not the head gasket? It's not a lot of smoke; and i only have a trace of coolant when I drain the oil. It also runs great and does not overheat.
It's a 98 c1500 with only 137k. I cant see it being a head gasket already. I've already replaced the quick connect hose fitting on the left side as it had corroded away and broke off the threads in the intake. That was fun. I never did get that quick connect fitting to completely stop leaking. Any tips on that?
Let me know if you can...... Again, great vid. Subscribed.
L8ER
Thanks for the video! I have to undertake this lower gasket change on my '99 4.3L engine becasue of internal coolant leakage. Doing this job did you line up top dead center compression stroke on #1-cylinder, other videos I've seen show folks doing that but if a guy marks the distributor position it shouldn't really matter is my thoughts.
You are welcome! For the distributor, certainly don't rotate it once you remove it otherwise static timing will be off and the engine probably won't run. Setting it to TDC cylinder 1 compression stroke with the cap off the distributor and you can see spark plug #1 is over the rotor sounds responsible with some extra steps. Some call me lazy, some call me efficient.
Geat video bro.Atleast you where working on a full size chevy that has twice the room than my 2001 LS Blazer.It`s the same exact motor and set as mine.You made it look so easy.But if you put your mind into doing something?You can get it done.
I have to replace my intake manifold gasket on my 2000 Bravada 4.3 is thisbthe swme motor? Reason i qsk is when you popped the intwke manifold off i didn't see wny soider injector? Ive never had one off so just wanting qs much information qs possible thanks rorbthe video
Thanks for showing the bottom two nuts for the power steering bracket. Service data wasn’t very clear on location.
I'm about to do this on a blazer, I'm going to cut that corner off the compressor bracket, such a horse shh design! It certainly don't need 4 bolts to hold the compressor
I am in the middle of doing this on a 2003 silverado. Thank you for being my guide!
i have the same problem with my 99 chevy astro van i wish that the gasket crack after unensamble the intake manifull thanks for the video
One bolt holding the fuel line bracket in back and two 8 mm bolts hold bracket to fuel lines that go into spider injection. Remove and easier to remove I take. Regardless though good job
Why didn’t you just disconnect the fuel lines from the top of the spider instead of ripping it out and damaging the fuel line?
Ya I seem to remember that you lift those out of the way they are also bolted by a bracket behind the block
It was my first, coulda woulda shoulda
I have a 4.3 2001 sliverado, and when I sit it up for a few days it run crazy, act like its going to kill. I looked at the engine and I noticed that there is water and anitfreeze between the intake. Do you know if my intake gasket is gone? Im wondering if I can do it myself instead of paying an arm and leg. I know I can unscrew the bolts,but I am afraid of the distrubator, timing, belt, and knowing where those harneses go. can you give me some feed back?
Do you ever refill the vehicle with coolant? If yes, then you probably have a leak.
An acid test for coolant leaks is a coolant system pressure test. You pressurize the coolant system and then see if it holds pressure. If pressure drops, then you have a leak in your system. If not, it could be a slow leak or a leak that does not occur until the engine is up to operating temperature.
Do you have coolant in your oil? Is your oil cap covered in white/light colored goo? Then that's probably an intake gasket issue or even a head gasket.
I have no idea if you can do it yourself. Take lots of pictures of stuff before removed and label all the bolts you removed and where they go. Using the correct tools is also beneficial, an adjustable wrench won't cut it.
The most challenging thing is the fuel lines IMO, you should try to remove those first thing and if you can't, stop. The distributor is very simple, keep the thing from spinning out of position, mark it with a paint pen and don't hit the starter or manually turn the crankshaft of the engine; then you'll be fine. The distributor is geared, so it will go back exactly how you took it out assuming all things the same.
Yes. I have bought tons of antifreeze. This morning I tried to start it up, and it is acting like it want to start
bigcartoonyIIV You probably have to do an intake gasket =( I would try to avoid running it in this condition, as you're going to damage the crankshaft bearings among other mechanical components, coolant makes a very bad lubricant.
I fear I have been running it like this for 2yrs, because I been adding antifreeze, and thought it was normal. Im hoping I can do this job myself, because Icant afford a 1000 bill. my biggest fear is the distributor and getting the belts right.
+bigcartoonyIIV it has a timing chain, distributor is already set to its timing just only remove the one bolt and not the bracket and you will be fine.
U remove stuck hoses by twisting,turning.................channel lock pliers work great!
Excelente trabalho feito pelas suas mãos, gostei 👍👍👍
The ONLY Part I needed to see you remove and YOU JUMPED passed it.... If you make a Video, It would be Nice to go through the " ENTIRE " process and DON'T Leave Out any steps ... ( If you may be wondering which part I needed help with, It's the Electronic Box REMOVAL by the Fuel lines on top of the Intake Manifold, with the 8 wires going into or out-of it... ... I have been trying to remove it, without Breaking it in some way ... I will just check some OTHER Videos and see if there's a clip to release or if you just Pry it up... Thanks ANYWAYS. :( ,, .. Have a good Summer 2017 .... ) And Please remember... A tutorial shows ALL steps of the operation... This video's kinda like referring to your Instruction pamphlet and find out, that they started it on Page 3 ;) lol...
Douglass Sanderfields
You unplug the injector harness dummy.
Thanks “Dad” I’m sure he will remember that next time
Pull white lock pin. 4 plastic tabs (2 each side) pull outward slightly, then pull harness plug up.
There is at least 1 clip, but it might be stuck and you might bust it, so if there is no way out, try the "12-Way Female Black Multi-Purpose Pigtail" at amazon www.amazon.com/ACDelco-PT804-Original-Equipment-Multi-Purpose/dp/B000C9SOWU/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=fuel+injector+electrical+connector&pd_rd_r=dc7fc707-2ed7-4df6-ac19-6f5e6ae83c3b&pd_rd_w=z9eC9&pd_rd_wg=Q7LpD&pf_rd_p=db468e0a-f345-403c-baba-a1a898d543d1&pf_rd_r=XP34EKK8VN88K77QM3Z5&qid=1571248328&s=automotive&sr=1-4&vehicle=2003-47-488-20-36-33-6-8-1307--9-2-145-36-&vehicleName=2003+Chevrolet+S10
Gotta do this and head gaskets on my Sonoma, and boy I'm pissed about it to! It's a 1998 4.3 Vortec & just barely turned 98k original miles. I'm a mechanic and been very on point with my maintenance because it's in such good shape. There's no damn reason it should be popping a head gasket.
Great Video Mega Man... I learned a bunch. Thanks!
I won't lie. the birds in the background is quite nice
haha
Hey i have a boosted blazer 4.2 if i was to take a base tune off a 4.3 wouldi be able to use thay for intail tuning ?
No because the 4.2 is a inline 6 and the 4.3 is a v6
That shouldn't even be a question. One's an inline the other's a V. Come on man you know better.
So why didn’t you show where the gasket was cracked and letting water into the oil. Wasn’t that your main purpose of this video
Apparently the metal shim gaskets are the way to go
Good video. How long would you figure it took you, 4 hours? I have to do this to my brother in laws truck tomorrow and Im not looking forward to it.
If you've done a couple of these exact jobs before and then go at it like you're digging someone out of an avalanche, then you could probably pull it off in 4 hours. For me being the first job, it took probably 6-7 hours with taking my time trying not to break stuff, fighting hoses, taking breaks, messing with the camera... Make sure you pick up a set of crows foot wrenches if you're doing an S10 truck to loosen the fuel lines.
Mega Mechatronics nice work you made it look like a walk in the park...
Almost 5 hours not to bad of a job...
I have a big problem. Yesterday I redid intake, because I broke a bolt in the engine the first time i tried it. I got everything back together, but my engine keeps stumbling and acting like its going to kill. Do you have an idea whats causing it?
bigcartoonyIIV dead battery
what was it?
@@jonhsmith2706 When I changed the intake plenum i put gasket sealer, and didnt torque it tight enough. It ran well for 6 years, and Now I have new issues cant seem to figure out. The truck is almost 21yrs old, so im on the verge to saying EFF it, and trade it in..lol
Did it back fire when it stumbled when applying throttle? Just finished lower intake gaskets. Runs pretty good until the throttle is pressed.
@@TyRC12 I ended up taking it apart and re doing it. You prob have a gasket leak. I cranked up my truck and sprayed carb cleaner until i found it. Also your fuel injectors could be crossed. I had that issue last year. Im planning on gettting rid of my truck now though.
Want to be sure you want to change the oil after this job right ? thanks
Wafflezombies1964 would definitely be recommended just in case any coolant made its way in there.
After I changed the gasket the Silverado 01 has been running rough putting the gasket could have caused the truck to act rough?
Check oval orange gasket (under injectors case , it is next behind fuel lines).
What o don’t get is, why didn’t you just take the plenum off as well before taking the intake. Little more work but more more efficient and thorough clean.
Any reason to not cut the corner from the compressor bracket? That's entirely too much work for 1 bolt and the compressor doesn't need 4 bolts!
How did u get yours off , I'm struggling, I removed the 3 long blots and the 2 studs. I can wiggle the bracket but it won't move forward .
Any suggestions
@@atownda_realesttv5585 did you get the ones as shown @6:33?
I did what I said above, I removed the compressor and cut the bracket for the intake to clear and gain access.
I wasn't going to go through all that nonsense removing the entire bracket just to gain access. IF there is an issue, then I'll make some support tabs (so far all is well). The A/C compressor does not need that much support! I work with buses and specialty conversion vehicles, one bus has 3 A/C compressors and they are only held on with 2 bolts and are just fine!
Why did you replace the factory gasket with the same factory defective gasket. Fel pro replacement gasket CANT fail like the factory one. It’s steel with thick rubber around the coolant and intake ports
Did I not install a Felpro upgraded replacement gasket? If you noticed I did not then shame on me, I was under the impression the gasket I used was the new design.
Great job ! I would have replaced the valve cover gaskets while you had that apart !! But damn good job 👍
The valve cover gaskets can be easily changed with all that stuff in place, if they aren’t leaking, I would not mess with them
How many hours is this job done in start to finish?
Factory labor time shows 2.5 hrs and +0.6 hrs with A/C to just replace the intake manifold.
Good job
Your welcome I engineered this motor back in 1922😂😂
Any tips on loosing bottom ac bracket bolts ?
Can you get a breaker bar on it? You may consider removing the fan shroud and then fit an impact between the fan fins. You can easily remove these old fans, just take an impact gun with a pointed tool, then use that to back the fan nut off, takes a couple braps with the impact and it's off.
How do we know if crank is not 180 degrees out when setting chain on 2000 S10 4.3 Vortec
+william THOMPSON You can do the 50/50 chance method (if it doesn't run, then you're 180 off) or pull the valve cover to make sure both valves are closed when the piston is at TDC.
Anyone have a rough idea how long this job takes?
Would be nice to see the whole process not just parts already removed 😂
thanks for the vid
"Plastic biscuits" cracked me up! haha. Great vid thanks!
use a wire wheel on a cordless drill cleans it in mins to bear metal and you can hold the drill to where the dirt and stuff is flying up off and away from the motor.
I finally finished my truck. Only down fall is it crank fast run smooth, then after about 3 mins of idol it stumbles, and act like it want to kill.
bigcartoonyIIV You have a leak somewhere in the intake
Thanks I found that son of a gun a few weeks back. When I changed the upper intake gasket, I put gasket sealer on it, and didnt torque it down. So when i tried to tighten it, the gasket seal left a crack, and had air leaking. So I had to pull all of that off, take a blade, and cut all of the gasket sealer offl.
Hello, Can you help me by letting me know what are ALL the tools I will need to replace my intake gasket? I have a 2004 Silverado 4.3 THANKS
Great video. Gave me confidence.
At 19:15 - What are you using RTV in a transmission for?!
How did the oil look after u changed it again??
I think that's the problem with my 4.3l I thought it was a headgasket but it never smoked or anything
Do you remember what size crow foot wrench you used to get those fuel lines off?
5/8" crowfoot
+Mega Mechatronics thank you sir, and keep up the good work with the videos
A Penas Much appreciated! Shooting some death bike content this weekend
From my understanding there is a upper and a lower intake gasket is it always the lower that fails?
The problem is with the lowers. Upper intake gasket won't dump coolant into the crankcase; however, it would cause an air leak and problems running.
Mega would it sound like it’s knocking cuz if it’s that then this is my case?
Doesn't show taking apart.. 😢
Can't find the "3m nylon cleaning biscuits" on eBay-can you provide a link?
@@RwP223 Thanks--I completed the job using a dremel kit to clean things up-great video! It really helped to watch it before I plunged into the job.
My intake gasket is leaking on my 96 Jimmy 137k miles two owners I see coolant between the vavle cover and intake
what does the number of owners the vehicle has had have anything to do with the leak?
Nothing just saying
There is a tool that saves you lots of time on this job. Go to ebay and search for: Fuel Line Removal Tool GM 4.3L and 5.7lL Isuzu 16mm Lower Intake Blazer Jimmy
How long did it last?
very nice work
What fluid did u have to drain, cause i see u disconnected a lot of hoses??
+Miguel Valdez At first I drained the engine oil, which had coolant in it. The only other fluid would be coolant from where it's supposed to be in the cooling system. Don't disconnect the power steering or AC, those should flex.
You need to clean that concrete floor with steam or whatever you need to clean it.
Is it more commonfor this to happen of for the head gasket to go bad?
+Gabriel Hopkins I believe with 97+ GM Vortec 4.3L engines, this faulty intake gasket is a common problem.
I must do this on my chevy venture and that sucks
Great video bro
I am doing a 2002 Astro van.. Oh Joy, I have done this before but i forgot a few things. It is a bear tho. They sold the van at 140k, Because the shop bill was $1400 to fix. This is common with the plastic gaskets. I will use the metal gaskets. The van I repaired years ago has 250k now. Damn you GM, stop going cheap on the gaskets.. Also this is a good time to rebuild the spider injector under the manifold. They will leak down and cause hard starts after warm up.
anyone know if I have to to take the 10 step housing golf so I can get the intake out???
it's a 1995 Chevy Silverado 4.3
You can, butI like his approach better by removing it all in one
I have a major water leak and I was told it was the intake manifold gasket. the guy I am gonna use to fix it told me $350 and 3 hours. does that sound about right?
Sounds okay, but what does a shop charge? If the shop charges a little more, I would go with that only because the shop is responsible for warranty repairs and possibly engine damage from mis-repair. A cash job has no such warranties and you will be surprised how peoples attitudes change after you paid them, people are pretty friendly until they get your cash.
Very true- How long will this job take? how much do you think a auto shop would charge? thanks
Awesome Thanks!
I like Mega Man
Fuel lines are preformed....
Muy bien aqui igual en lo mejor en RUclips mi canal
What year of truck is this? Mine is 2001
1999 Standard Cab 6ft bed
Well at least I know I don't need intake gaskets I have a really bad vacuum leak lol
I have a s10 blazer and i did it to it and now it idles super high any odeas ??
Gabriel Hopkins vacuum leak
Gabriel Hopkins take your throttle body off, and use carb cleaner, and clean the piss out of it
Throttle cable to tight
Don't use silicone except at the ends... Call your gasket company for TRUTH
Give the dog a wrench he wants to help!!!!
My coolant all in oil pan. All cylinders test 170-175 compression. Don't have radiator with engine oil cooler. So, intakes leaking? But, so quickly from radiator to oil pan? Whaa?
Hey. Nice shirt. New Yorker. how did u know it was intake and not head.
Based on the frequency of the issue, I assumed it was the intake gasket.
Mega Mechatronics When I pour water in the radiator it goes straight to the oil pan do you think this is my problem ? the intake gaskets instead of the head gaskets? Thanks in advance
no its.. 22 ft lbs/ 2nd round go 44/3rd go 65.. done
For lower manifold bolt torque? I thought it was 26 106 132 inch pounds.
so much work. I'll never attempt it.
To be honest. The only hard parts should be sliding the A/C mounting bracket forward and cleaning parts. I'm getting ready to put all my parts back together right now. If you can, take your time and it should go well.
If you have random bolts laying around on the intake then you weren't careful enough. Mucking up the urethane or silicone sealant at the ends of the block is easy to screw up. However, take your time and actually rehearse the movements you are going to make. The rehearsal alone is a huge help.
That EGR tube was a little bastard and I twisted it off on the intake. Ordering a new one was work it. I coated the tube were the nut clamps the tube with anti seize.
It's easy.. I did mine 20+ miles in a national Forest... No one around.. no tow trucks... Simple
This is the slowest video ever
Glad awesome viewers like you can go to the lower right side of the video window to change the speed of the video.
Please don't listen to this guy with the silicone yeah it plugs up the screen then it starts the engine of oil and as far as Transmissions go they got a filter in the pan this guy wouldn't work on my motor
The food is annoying stop chewing
This would be a lot easier to watch if you weren't chewing and smacking the entire time. Come on man. If you're going to do an instructional video, please be more professional in the future