14:40 For LightBurn, it looks like you have your [Laser Tools] [Rotary Setup] Mirror mode turned on. Turn that off and you won't have to invert your graphic.
The Shelby image came out reversed likely if you used the RA2 with the 3 jaw chuck. The jaws rotate opposite of the rollers. I had the same issue. When using the jaws you have to mirror the pic
Appreciate the vid! Waiting for my D1 pro to arrive. I liked the exhaust tube you had near the laser. I’m concerned about fumes in my garage. Do you have a video describing your setup
Nice vid. I liked the completeness of it all. Subscribed. As an aside, otters danger den may need an update :o Loading into lightburn is really bad: Upside down, The speed is correct but power is 100 across the entire row ! Maybe LB updated it's format.
I love your video! It's very detailed and helpful. Would you happen to know if the IR laser will engrave or mark tungsten carbide or black ceramic? I just purchased this module to use on jewelry.
Hey there, thank you for sharing an honest to goodness example of nice results with copper... I have tried numerous time on a similar sheet of copper - with ZERO marks left on the copper... NADA, zip, nothing. Are you spraying the copper first with something? If not, how do you get the correct focus, apparently for my unit, the focusing arm is not correct. I know the focal length of the IR module is much small than on the blue laser... How do you get your dialed in? Thank you.
Hi, I keep going back to your video trying to do some PMAGs. One time it came out great. But now it keeps coming out brown. I'm not sure what i'm doing wrong. I'm new to lasering. I have it set at max speed 166. Max power 15. Line interval .030. The continuous power and bi directional scanning on. Do you have any tips on what I should check to see what's going on? I'm trying to get it white like yours.
Are you using the same version of D1 as I am? Or are you using the D1 Pro?
2 года назад+2
How does this compare to the default laser form the D1 pro? IT can already engrave metals, like shwon in countless videos. So is this just a lot faster at doing so or is it better in some way?
The D1 pro can only mark stainless steel and that’s around 3 to 5 mm/s to get a darker result. Problem is that it can also warp the stainless if it isn’t thick enough. This is at least 4 to 5 times faster for the same result and it allows you to engrave other metals as well.
The D1 pro can only mark stainless steel and that’s around 3 to 5 mm/s to get a darker result. Problem is that it can also warp the stainless if it isn’t thick enough. This is at least 4 to 5 times faster for the same result and it allows you to engrave other metals as well.
Generally, as these guys say, only stainless can be engraved, a very few steel alloys too. This head can engrave aluminum, copper brass, etc. which the regular heads can’t.
Did you have issues with your infrared module working with the RA2? when I use mine in lightburn with the rotary attachment it looks like the laser is intermittently producing less power. I can engrave on flat surfaces with no issues.
So, I watched the xtool roll out for this laser head and they are pushing it for the hobbyist, or small business jeweler. My issue is it doesn’t seem to actually engrave with much depth. Do you have any true to life measurements for the depth of material removed?
This is definitely aimed at the hobbyist or small business owner. This will engrave many different metals, that you can feel and see. However, this is only a 2w laser module. If you are looking at deep engraving, I would point you to a fiber laser. I would suggest starting out with a 20w or higher. Thanks
Seems to be very durable. I have yet to see any differences in the aluminum. I haven’t exactly been nice to the samples moving them around in my garage.
I'd really like to engrave some pmags for my dad and husband. I have the 10w module right now. Is it even possible with that? I thought maybe upgrading to the 20w would do the trick but now I've seen this one.lol
You will not get the same results using the 20w 455nm laser, as you will with the IR 1064nm laser. You will not get the change of colors like you saw in my video using a 20w laser. Hope that answers your question?
Does it really etched metals or just mark it? I'm wondering if it's worth buying to engrave on silver and gold jewelry or i shouldjust get a fiber... Thanks
My main concern is that if xtool can make a vey clean engrave our logo on cigarette holders. They are made of either acrylic and polyester. Then, we add dye into the engraved space to finish the logo process. Any idea/suggestions to achieve that? Thank you sir.
What I am seeing is this will barely etch the surface. Not even close to deep enough for a texture plate. I am also a jeweler and that was a question. May need to look at a fiber as they can engrave and not just etch.
Engraving and etching are basically the same exact thing. Now marking, it what a 455nm diode laser will do. Basically oxidizing the surface. Let’s not be confused here, this is a 1064nm laser, the 1064nm that is used in fiber lasers. This is just 2 watts. This will engrave\etch cold rolled steel, that you can actually feel. This will not engrave deep, nor cut. You are also not going to get the same results from a 20+ watt fiber laser.
He's not using the right term. It's not oxidation causing the colors. It's the heat tempering the metal. Or that's my understanding of it, which could easily be wrong
Hello. Any further updates 9n pmag settings? 160 mm/sec is about 60 mm/min. For me with about a 2.5 inch logo it showing 35 min. Seems a little too slow?
There are multiple videos out there showing the 20w Xtool engraving metal? How much deeper will this engrave say a mild steel for instance? Thanks for the video
If someone is telling you that the 20w 455nm xTool can engrave metal, they are not telling you the truth. Best way I can phrase this is, a 455nm can basically only mark (like a marker) stainless steal, and that is about the only metal it can. A 1064nm can actually "engrave\etch" almost any metal including mild steel. Will you get a deep engrave? No, but you will ket an engraving that you can actually feel. Hopefully that answers your question? Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@TripodsGarage Thanks for the response, that does clear it up. It is hard to differentiate that when watching videos. So would the standard 20w marking be light enough to just rub off? Or would it still be somewhat permanent? Thanks again.
@@G--T - When using the 20w 455nm on Stainless steel you are annealing the stainless steel. This high temperature annealing process is pretty permanent, I have yet to wear it off.
hey! Nice video! very helpful in my decision making process. But more importantly, where did you get those cool blue things you set your gantry legs into?
Hello Rick! Thanks for watching and commenting. If you want to cut clear acrylic you will need to use a CO2 laser like the xTool Laserbox www.xtool.com/products/refurbished-laserbox-rotary-40w-co2?ref=if7I0mUlth-h&
If that was true, then it would have happened in my RA2 Pro review video as well. I used the same orientation. There is thread in LightBurn’s community forums of people having this very same issue.
Unfortunately this IR module isn’t that powerful enough to remove the copper for PCBs. It will take way too many passes to be effective. I would go with a 20w+ Fiber Laser. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Very helpful video. Thank you. Do you know if there is just one manufacturer of this infrared laser and it is sold by a number of re-sellers, or if each seller, such as xTool makes their own?
Looks like there are several manufactures releasing their own IR Modules. Mr Carve with their M3 was first, followed by xTool and now the AtomStack R30. Each are tailored to be used with their machines and their boards. I see the 1064nm IR's growing in popularity. Hope that answers your question.
@@TripodsGarage Thank you for your reply. I was wondering if there is one original source for the infrared lasers and companies such as AtomStack OEM them for their particular machines. It seems very coincidental that these companies release such a similar product at approximately the same time.
Are you getting lightburn to work properly? When I use lightburn it’s not firing the red pointer to frame my image it’s actually turning on the laser when it’s framing which then engraves the framing square on the material. I’m not sure if I’m doing something wrong?
@@TripodsGarage yes it’s working fine and framing properly with with creator. I was thinking I might need to do something different in lightburn? Also did you notice it seems the height gauge on the new laser is off and you need to have have the laser a bit lower?
A regular blu laser engraver will mark anodized aluminum, it won't engrave into the actual metal, however it will turn the anodizing white wherever you engrave that will be permanent and very durable, unless you actually sand through the oxide layer, which is what anodizing is.
What speeds did you end up using for your test files? I tried to use the website you put in and used the same settings and it wouldnt even start for some reason and it was inverted
Hmm, that is odd, you can always used the flip image on the upper toolbar to switch the image around. Please try again with the site, I have been using it for a number of month with great results.
Yes, the 455nm laser on in D1 Pro will not engrave metal. You need a 1064nm laser to engrave metal. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching and commenting 👍
I need help with my 1064 nm module after I installed it on my d1 pro xtool 😢! It's not updating my software so now still trying to figure out to update in a different way
@@TripodsGarage Thanks for the reply. ,but when I bought it it said that I could do acrylic engraving, so I bought it. "but it seems difficult. thanks.
Depends if that is how you want to look at it. It is slower for larger projects. If you are doing smaller items like jewelry, it is rather quick. However, it is nice to have that larger surface area to do larger items if you so choose to.
Not being able to engrave metal with the default laser head makes the new Atomstack even more of a proposition, I have a K40 upgraded to a K50 with an upgraded lens kit and air assist but its too small for some things I wish to make and so is the XTool so I am thinking of just getting a good laser and compressor and some sort of quick change mount for my MPCNC which is 1000 X 800.
Well they are totally different. A 455nm will not engrave metal, while a 1064nm will. If you are not getting the results that I am, I would suggest reaching out to xTool to see if they can assist you.
I have the Xtool D1 Pro with both lasers and I wanted to offer free services to my local police department to engrave the pistol slides (or anywhere else possible) to all Honorably retired and retiring Police Officers. Can this do it? Has anyone tried it? Does anyone have pictures of the end results? TIA
Hello Nino, I love your idea! With the 1064nm you should be able to engrave a pistol slide, as it will engrave metals. It is a matter of power, speed, and how many passes you will need to do to get the desired results. However, I would always recommend buying some test samples first, just to be sure. Also you will not get deep engravings like you might have seen with fiber lasers. Thanks - Tripod
The mirror mode happens because you place the rotary module incorrectly - hence the rolling will be opposite of what it is supposed to be. If you turn it 180 degrees, it will be as it should be. If it is the one with the jaws, then they have to be on the right hand side - If it is just the rollers, then the stepper motor has to be on the right hand side - with the top of the D1 being furthest away from you. You have to place the rotary module, so any text on it is not turned upside down, when you look at it. Here is a video, which shows a guy, who first turns it the wrong way, which mirror the image. Then he places it right. ruclips.net/video/RJ2N47VFsyY/видео.htmlfeature=shared
@@TripodsGarage - I learned the address of the White House back in grade school. It is one of the most known addresses in the world. I can see why you picked it. This isn’t a political talking point. You can ask Siri, Google, or Alexa, each we tell you the address. Heck it will even tell how late it is open for that day! Saying that you are aiding or abetting is absolute nonsense. To say that is unjust
![Hunxho - Ball Forever [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nki9ZTF9Uls/mqdefault.jpg)
14:40 For LightBurn, it looks like you have your [Laser Tools] [Rotary Setup] Mirror mode turned on. Turn that off and you won't have to invert your graphic.
The Shelby image came out reversed likely if you used the RA2 with the 3 jaw chuck. The jaws rotate opposite of the rollers. I had the same issue. When using the jaws you have to mirror the pic
If the rotary is orientated backwards it will engrave mirrored. I learned this the hard way.
Yes I notice my projects have been engraved mirrored, How do I fix that problem?
Could you elaborate on 'backwards'? Genuinely curious
@@loganramsey1957Motor left or right
I also learned that the hard way. Lol
Appreciate the vid! Waiting for my D1 pro to arrive. I liked the exhaust tube you had near the laser. I’m concerned about fumes in my garage. Do you have a video describing your setup
Nice vid. I liked the completeness of it all. Subscribed. As an aside, otters danger den may need an update :o Loading into lightburn is really bad: Upside down, The speed is correct but power is 100 across the entire row ! Maybe LB updated it's format.
I love your video! It's very detailed and helpful. Would you happen to know if the IR laser will engrave or mark tungsten carbide or black ceramic? I just purchased this module to use on jewelry.
I am very happy to add that new contact info for the occupant of the White House LOL
Not many have caught it 😄. Defiantly the occupant of the White House when he is actually there 😆
You get the First Review Award.
Hey there, thank you for sharing an honest to goodness example of nice results with copper... I have tried numerous time on a similar sheet of copper - with ZERO marks left on the copper... NADA, zip, nothing. Are you spraying the copper first with something? If not, how do you get the correct focus, apparently for my unit, the focusing arm is not correct. I know the focal length of the IR module is much small than on the blue laser... How do you get your dialed in? Thank you.
Did you ever figure this out?
John, great video as usual - nice to see fire and smoke that are supposed to be there.
Thanks David! For once all the fire and smoke was contained 😂😂
Would you be willing to make and share a library of the material settings to load? Nice walk thru TY
Hi, I keep going back to your video trying to do some PMAGs. One time it came out great. But now it keeps coming out brown. I'm not sure what i'm doing wrong. I'm new to lasering. I have it set at max speed 166. Max power 15. Line interval .030. The continuous power and bi directional scanning on. Do you have any tips on what I should check to see what's going on? I'm trying to get it white like yours.
Are you using the same version of D1 as I am? Or are you using the D1 Pro?
How does this compare to the default laser form the D1 pro? IT can already engrave metals, like shwon in countless videos. So is this just a lot faster at doing so or is it better in some way?
The D1 pro can only mark stainless steel and that’s around 3 to 5 mm/s to get a darker result. Problem is that it can also warp the stainless if it isn’t thick enough. This is at least 4 to 5 times faster for the same result and it allows you to engrave other metals as well.
The D1 pro can only mark stainless steel and that’s around 3 to 5 mm/s to get a darker result. Problem is that it can also warp the stainless if it isn’t thick enough. This is at least 4 to 5 times faster for the same result and it allows you to engrave other metals as well.
Generally, as these guys say, only stainless can be engraved, a very few steel alloys too. This head can engrave aluminum, copper brass, etc. which the regular heads can’t.
Is this 10 w or 20 w can make some colors on steel ?
Great video! Lots of great information 👍. I love the QR code, a funny touch 😂😂
It was the first address that came to my head when doing the QR code.
Could you share settings for metal as I just ordered my 1064
Thank you
Ed
Great video!! Made me want to purchase the IR module to add to my current D1 Pro 10W setup. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Did you have issues with your infrared module working with the RA2? when I use mine in lightburn with the rotary attachment it looks like the laser is intermittently producing less power. I can engrave on flat surfaces with no issues.
My issue with the rotary being mirrored was that I did not have the software set to rotary lol :)
So, I watched the xtool roll out for this laser head and they are pushing it for the hobbyist, or small business jeweler. My issue is it doesn’t seem to actually engrave with much depth. Do you have any true to life measurements for the depth of material removed?
Exactly the question I would like to see answered, engraving depth is critical to some of the projects I'd like a laser to be able to handle.
It’s only a 2w fiber so it’s very very weak, I have a 30w fibre laser that can cut through 1mm ss but a 2w is hardly worth turning on
@@TeeTee-bu6md Not concerned about cutting, just engraving depth. Only looking for a few thousandths of an inch but it's critical.
This is definitely aimed at the hobbyist or small business owner. This will engrave many different metals, that you can feel and see. However, this is only a 2w laser module. If you are looking at deep engraving, I would point you to a fiber laser. I would suggest starting out with a 20w or higher. Thanks
When are you going to bundle it without the 10 w laser. I just engrave silver and gold only... no wood or plastic?
Looking at the aluminum and the various shades… how easily would that rub off in the pocket if someone made challenge coins??
Seems to be very durable. I have yet to see any differences in the aluminum. I haven’t exactly been nice to the samples moving them around in my garage.
I just got the infrared laser and am having trouble getting it in focus. Did you have any issues with the focus bar being to tall?
I'd really like to engrave some pmags for my dad and husband. I have the 10w module right now. Is it even possible with that? I thought maybe upgrading to the 20w would do the trick but now I've seen this one.lol
You will not get the same results using the 20w 455nm laser, as you will with the IR 1064nm laser. You will not get the change of colors like you saw in my video using a 20w laser. Hope that answers your question?
1:08 The one that came with my IR is 25V @ 6A, *150* watts.
what did you use for the feet to be attached to your base?
Does it really etched metals or just mark it? I'm wondering if it's worth buying to engrave on silver and gold jewelry or i shouldjust get a fiber...
Thanks
Yes it does actually etch\engrave metal. However, a fiber laser will engrave deeper.
do you think the IR module is capable of ablating a very thing layer of black nickel plating?
What are the steps in doing the firmware update? Like where do I go and what do I click on?
How many hours of operation is expected for an ir module doing primarily metal marking?
My main concern is that if xtool can make a vey clean engrave our logo on cigarette holders. They are made of either acrylic and polyester. Then, we add dye into the engraved space to finish the logo process. Any idea/suggestions to achieve that? Thank you sir.
Could. This actually engravw in cold rolled steel? Like 1/8th inch, for rolling mill texture plates?
What I am seeing is this will barely etch the surface. Not even close to deep enough for a texture plate. I am also a jeweler and that was a question. May need to look at a fiber as they can engrave and not just etch.
@@WilcoxRanch thank u, ya I've been looking at the 50w fiber but sooo expensive
Engraving and etching are basically the same exact thing. Now marking, it what a 455nm diode laser will do. Basically oxidizing the surface. Let’s not be confused here, this is a 1064nm laser, the 1064nm that is used in fiber lasers. This is just 2 watts. This will engrave\etch cold rolled steel, that you can actually feel. This will not engrave deep, nor cut. You are also not going to get the same results from a 20+ watt fiber laser.
With the copper & titanium what do you mean by oxidation? Did you have to do something extra with the metal?
He's not using the right term. It's not oxidation causing the colors. It's the heat tempering the metal.
Or that's my understanding of it, which could easily be wrong
Hello. Have you ever marked blackened stainless steel with this laser? Thanks
Hello. Any further updates 9n pmag settings? 160 mm/sec is about 60 mm/min. For me with about a 2.5 inch logo it showing 35 min. Seems a little too slow?
Where did you get the sheets of Stainless steel? What type? What thickness? Thanks!
Here you go!
amzn.to/3i2fxB8
Looks heavier. Do you foresee any issues with causing wear on the D1 mechanisms?
I do not see it being an issue. One main reason, you will be typically be going slower to engrave metal. Also all the glides are metal.
There are multiple videos out there showing the 20w Xtool engraving metal? How much deeper will this engrave say a mild steel for instance? Thanks for the video
If someone is telling you that the 20w 455nm xTool can engrave metal, they are not telling you the truth. Best way I can phrase this is, a 455nm can basically only mark (like a marker) stainless steal, and that is about the only metal it can. A 1064nm can actually "engrave\etch" almost any metal including mild steel. Will you get a deep engrave? No, but you will ket an engraving that you can actually feel. Hopefully that answers your question? Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@TripodsGarage Thanks for the response, that does clear it up. It is hard to differentiate that when watching videos. So would the standard 20w marking be light enough to just rub off? Or would it still be somewhat permanent? Thanks again.
@@G--T - When using the 20w 455nm on Stainless steel you are annealing the stainless steel. This high temperature annealing process is pretty permanent, I have yet to wear it off.
Hello. Have you tried a gun slide yet? Hoping to try one soon.
What info could u give me in centering the infrared lazer on the D1 to engrave a brass coin. Mine keeps being off center.
hey! Nice video! very helpful in my decision making process. But more importantly, where did you get those cool blue things you set your gantry legs into?
sorry. im an idiot. should have trusted the links!
Hi, thanks for sharing.
Do think this would be good for race medals?
Yeah! I would go with a dark engrave
Great Video. One thing I didn't see, and am curious about: Does the D1 series finally have a module that will cut/engrave clear acrylic?
Hello Rick! Thanks for watching and commenting. If you want to cut clear acrylic you will need to use a CO2 laser like the xTool Laserbox
www.xtool.com/products/refurbished-laserbox-rotary-40w-co2?ref=if7I0mUlth-h&
You can now engrave with the inferred module.
1:30 My IR is almost *two inches taller* than the blue laser that came with the "D1Pro red".
This video was great ❤ I guess this is the same module they use in the xtool f1?
Many thanks! Yes, I believe it is the same module that is in the F1
@@TripodsGarage that’s great! How well does the etching on non-coated metals stand up to abrasion? 🙂
The mirrored tumbler was from the direction it was turning.
If that was true, then it would have happened in my RA2 Pro review video as well. I used the same orientation. There is thread in LightBurn’s community forums of people having this very same issue.
Its posible to engrave clear acrilic for led acril lampe
I just got mine. How do I flash the firmware? Thanks for mentioning changing out the power brick. I was going to use the same one. Not good.
found it, thanks.
How deep can it engrave on copper or brass? Is there a way to set the dept ?
where did you find those blank brass coins?
Thanks!
I purchased off of Amazon. Link below
amzn.to/3SCesyg
Will the infrared cut wood or engrave well or just metal
The 1064nm IR is really meant for metals and certain plastics.
You mention flashing the metal at the end of the vid. What is that?
hi nice video can you try pcb engraving ? is it succeed
Unfortunately this IR module isn’t that powerful enough to remove the copper for PCBs. It will take way too many passes to be effective. I would go with a 20w+ Fiber Laser. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Very helpful video. Thank you. Do you know if there is just one manufacturer of this infrared laser and it is sold by a number of re-sellers, or if each seller, such as xTool makes their own?
Looks like there are several manufactures releasing their own IR Modules. Mr Carve with their M3 was first, followed by xTool and now the AtomStack R30. Each are tailored to be used with their machines and their boards. I see the 1064nm IR's growing in popularity. Hope that answers your question.
@@TripodsGarage Thank you for your reply. I was wondering if there is one original source for the infrared lasers and companies such as AtomStack OEM them for their particular machines. It seems very coincidental that these companies release such a similar product at approximately the same time.
I don't understand how these ir modules are able to mark metal and co2 lasers cannot when they are both stated at the same wave length?
Can we get an update video for the module?
I'm having issues of the IR module not engraving in black, it's only engraving in white any ideas on that.
How do you know how to set everything?
Trial and error. Each material behaves differently. I have experience with the 2W 1064nm lasers, so I did have a little bit of a head start.
Have you tried it on wood?
Hi, cool video. Are we talking permanent marking? Scratch resistant?
This upgrade (1064nm IR MODULE) actually removes material. Vaporizes it ;)
what would be some good test file settings for this?
Thanks!
Sorry, meant 9600 mm/ min. I did the math wrong. Now that is too fast. Any updated thoughts?
Are you getting lightburn to work properly? When I use lightburn it’s not firing the red pointer to frame my image it’s actually turning on the laser when it’s framing
which then engraves the framing square on the material. I’m not sure if I’m doing something wrong?
Did you apply the new firmware? Within Creators Space you can turn on and off the dot on the laser.
@@TripodsGarage yes it’s working fine and framing properly with with creator. I was thinking I might need to do something different in lightburn? Also did you notice it seems the height gauge on the new laser is off and you need to have have the laser a bit lower?
@@Badx95 - Might want to manually setup a new laser profile. Since the engraving area is now smaller I created a new profile just for the IR.
I will try that
Thank you so much for the details
Have you tried it on anodized lower receiver or pistol slide?
A regular blu laser engraver will mark anodized aluminum, it won't engrave into the actual metal, however it will turn the anodizing white wherever you engrave that will be permanent and very durable, unless you actually sand through the oxide layer, which is what anodizing is.
do you sell the feet attachments and maybe an engrave file for the base?
What speeds did you end up using for your test files? I tried to use the website you put in and used the same settings and it wouldnt even start for some reason
and it was inverted
Hmm, that is odd, you can always used the flip image on the upper toolbar to switch the image around. Please try again with the site, I have been using it for a number of month with great results.
@@TripodsGarage okay I’ll Try it again. What base settings should I use ?
can you link stills so users can see your test burns? hard to even see what you actually did moving to fast. and not enough information for each test.
Thank you
If you have the d1 pro 20 do you still need to buy that to engrave metal?
Yes, the 455nm laser on in D1 Pro will not engrave metal. You need a 1064nm laser to engrave metal. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching and commenting 👍
@@TripodsGarage yes it did help thank you but I think my bundle came with both.
I need help with my 1064 nm module after I installed it on my d1 pro xtool 😢! It's not updating my software so now still trying to figure out to update in a different way
How do you line up the item if there are no cross hairs?
I use the spoil board, along with the red dot to assist with the outline. Sometimes I will mark the material at center point.
Very Cool. Have you tried Tungsten yet?
Not yet
Can this engrave clear acrylic
Can you engrave acrylic or glass? I don't know how to do it and it goes through
If you are specifically looking to engrave glass and acrylic. I would go with a CO2 laser, they can engrave without a using a interface layer.
@@TripodsGarage
Thanks for the reply.
,but when I bought it it said that I could do acrylic engraving, so I bought it. "but it seems difficult.
thanks.
@@バカサバイバーR Hello, you can engrave colored acrylic like xTool mentioned and what I did in the video.
@@TripodsGarage
thank you.
Finally, I want to know. What do you think is the biggest difference between 10w and 20w?
sorry.
So the takeaway here is Xtool has entered IR modules, but it takes so long to do anything with it on metals to be useful.
Depends if that is how you want to look at it. It is slower for larger projects. If you are doing smaller items like jewelry, it is rather quick. However, it is nice to have that larger surface area to do larger items if you so choose to.
can you compare with 20w atomshack fibre module
I never received the 20w module to compare :-(
Just installed the laser and updated the firmware, but it’s not firing. Don’t get the white dot, just red and nothing happening. Any ideas anyone?!
Is it difficult to frame the ir laser with creative space?
It isn't that difficult. I would always suggest a jig for repeated work.
Are you using a 10 watt?
What do you mean a 10w? This was a 10w D1 that was swapped out with the 1064nm IR
@@TripodsGarage ok. Thank you.
Looks like it does the metals the diode laser misses.
Has anyone tried this on mild steel and what setting ranges? Thanks
can it engrave or cut clear acrlyic?
Unfortunately you cannot, I would suggest a CO2 laser
Not being able to engrave metal with the default laser head makes the new Atomstack even more of a proposition, I have a K40 upgraded to a K50 with an upgraded lens kit and air assist but its too small for some things I wish to make and so is the XTool so I am thinking of just getting a good laser and compressor and some sort of quick change mount for my MPCNC which is 1000 X 800.
Are you talking about the Atomstack M4?
I got the ir and it doesn't do anything that my 20w won't do. Very disappointing 😞
Well they are totally different. A 455nm will not engrave metal, while a 1064nm will. If you are not getting the results that I am, I would suggest reaching out to xTool to see if they can assist you.
Vaporize!!!
Absolutely 😃
Hi, can you send me the test grid ???
Look in the description of this video.
xTOOL D1 10 Watt Laser Engraver - Awesome Results!
ruclips.net/video/JVfmPDRFlQY/видео.html
I have the Xtool D1 Pro with both lasers and I wanted to offer free services to my local police department to engrave the pistol slides (or anywhere else possible) to all Honorably retired and retiring Police Officers. Can this do it? Has anyone tried it? Does anyone have pictures of the end results? TIA
Hello Nino,
I love your idea! With the 1064nm you should be able to engrave a pistol slide, as it will engrave metals. It is a matter of power, speed, and how many passes you will need to do to get the desired results. However, I would always recommend buying some test samples first, just to be sure. Also you will not get deep engravings like you might have seen with fiber lasers.
Thanks - Tripod
1600 Pennsylvania... LOL
To many ads!
Too too too many ads😢
The mirror mode happens because you place the rotary module incorrectly - hence the rolling will be opposite of what it is supposed to be. If you turn it 180 degrees, it will be as it should be. If it is the one with the jaws, then they have to be on the right hand side - If it is just the rollers, then the stepper motor has to be on the right hand side - with the top of the D1 being furthest away from you. You have to place the rotary module, so any text on it is not turned upside down, when you look at it. Here is a video, which shows a guy, who first turns it the wrong way, which mirror the image. Then he places it right. ruclips.net/video/RJ2N47VFsyY/видео.htmlfeature=shared
Say hello to the White House for me...whomever is the occupant.
😂😂😂
you dont teach me shit!
Next time arrive to class on time. Maybe take an English course first 😉
You know depending on one’s politics that’s either aiding and abetting a stalker or helping people know where the President lives.
What are you talking about?
Oh! The QR code to the White House. It is all public knowledge, and is all in good fun.
@@TripodsGarage I know just cracked me up this morning. Mixed with the flag engraving. Good job on your review.
@@TripodsGarage - I learned the address of the White House back in grade school. It is one of the most known addresses in the world. I can see why you picked it. This isn’t a political talking point. You can ask Siri, Google, or Alexa, each we tell you the address. Heck it will even tell how late it is open for that day! Saying that you are aiding or abetting is absolute nonsense. To say that is unjust
@@LisaHarsh - Thanks Lisa!