Get the xTool S1 👇 www.xtool.com/products/xtool-... (affiliate link) Get the xTool S1 1064nm IR Module 👇 www.xtool.com/products/xtool-... (affiliate link) xTool S1 on Amazon 👇 amzn.to/4fx7dTj (affiliate link) xTool S1 1064nm IR Module on Amazon 👇 amzn.to/3WWxhzX (affiliate link)
Good timing on this upload - tried engraving silver with my D1 Blue diode and obviously failed - now looking to grab a IR diode :) Pro-tip for alignment of two objects on top of each other (9:30 in the video) - at the end of that dropdown, there's an "align center", which will place the objects on top of each other, without having to click both "align horizontal" and "align vertical"
Thanks mate, that's a time saving tip! Yeah that 1064 nm module can also engrave on a smaller scale as the laser focal point is smaller than the blue diode laser (20/40w). This is probably the best thing apart from getting a fiber laser if you want to engrave metals. But if you want to relief engrave metals, you'll need to get fiber.
@@DarrenYeoYT already ordered a IR module locally (NZ) for about a grand... have been dreaming about a fibre laser for a while now, but start to fear my wife when I see the $5k+ price tags ;)
The F1 ultra looks awesome man as it has both diode and fiber laser. But super expensive. There's also other brands that stock >20W fiber lasers but I don't know much about them and I think you need to use external software like lightburn. @@morrislazootin9426
A weird use, but just because of the small laser spot size.. will you be able to cut paper with it? Just something like 120gsm card stock not too thick.
@DarrenYeoYT I did a test on their 20w diode laser but found the paper burnt quite easily even on 15%power and 15mm/s. But mainly the cut line was too wide for what I'm doing.. If you have time, could you please do a test for me? Just normal copy paper will do.
I'm not familiar with lightburn. I've seen tutorials of it though, seems like there are way more settings/options when lasering. Try one of those material array tests. You can get different colours by experimenting.
Could you custom engrave golf club heads due to the 3 dimensional aspects of the piece? Or does it need to be less dynamic for the 3D scan (more simplistic curves over a club which can be very difficult )
If the curve remains constant, similar to the curve on the inside of a bowl, the machine can map it out and handle the laser focussing. Otherwise it will not engrave evenly or at all for some spots. But I've found that if I use a rock or something with a SLIGHT curvature, I don't even bother with the curve mapping and just let the laser think it's a flat surface. It will engrave fine.
If I sent a golf club for you to keep and practice on would you be able to show what it comes out like? Any design works I am curious about buying one but it’s expensive to find out it wouldn’t work the way I think
@@FeroxWJB the blue laser diode will only work on stainless steel, not other metals. It also cannot engrave as detailed as the IR module due to the laser focal point size. IR can also engrave on plastics. Blue laser cannot. But if you're looking to engrave or cut wood, the blue laser is way better - it has the power to cut through wood and work faster.
There is a noticeable dip in areas I laser slowly (stainless steel/brass). 1mm/s. However, it also creates dark residue. I use a toothbrush and soap to clean it off.
Get the xTool S1 👇
www.xtool.com/products/xtool-... (affiliate link)
Get the xTool S1 1064nm IR Module 👇
www.xtool.com/products/xtool-... (affiliate link)
xTool S1 on Amazon 👇
amzn.to/4fx7dTj (affiliate link)
xTool S1 1064nm IR Module on Amazon 👇
amzn.to/3WWxhzX (affiliate link)
Good timing on this upload - tried engraving silver with my D1 Blue diode and obviously failed - now looking to grab a IR diode :)
Pro-tip for alignment of two objects on top of each other (9:30 in the video) - at the end of that dropdown, there's an "align center", which will place the objects on top of each other, without having to click both "align horizontal" and "align vertical"
Thanks mate, that's a time saving tip! Yeah that 1064 nm module can also engrave on a smaller scale as the laser focal point is smaller than the blue diode laser (20/40w). This is probably the best thing apart from getting a fiber laser if you want to engrave metals. But if you want to relief engrave metals, you'll need to get fiber.
@@DarrenYeoYT already ordered a IR module locally (NZ) for about a grand... have been dreaming about a fibre laser for a while now, but start to fear my wife when I see the $5k+ price tags ;)
The F1 ultra looks awesome man as it has both diode and fiber laser. But super expensive. There's also other brands that stock >20W fiber lasers but I don't know much about them and I think you need to use external software like lightburn. @@morrislazootin9426
Hi, can I ask you if the xTool 1064nm Infrared Laser module is compatible with the normal xtool D1?
Nope, there's a D1 version - you need this as it has different mounts, design. www.xtool.com/products/xtool-1064nm-infrared-laser-module
A weird use, but just because of the small laser spot size.. will you be able to cut paper with it? Just something like 120gsm card stock not too thick.
According to xtool, the blue diode laser is the one you'll need for this.
www.xtool.com/blogs/xtool-academy/laser-cutting-paper
@DarrenYeoYT I did a test on their 20w diode laser but found the paper burnt quite easily even on 15%power and 15mm/s. But mainly the cut line was too wide for what I'm doing.. If you have time, could you please do a test for me? Just normal copy paper will do.
Are there any setting changes required if you are using Lightburn with 2W IR?
I'm not familiar with lightburn. I've seen tutorials of it though, seems like there are way more settings/options when lasering. Try one of those material array tests. You can get different colours by experimenting.
Could you custom engrave golf club heads due to the 3 dimensional aspects of the piece? Or does it need to be less dynamic for the 3D scan (more simplistic curves over a club which can be very difficult )
If the curve remains constant, similar to the curve on the inside of a bowl, the machine can map it out and handle the laser focussing. Otherwise it will not engrave evenly or at all for some spots. But I've found that if I use a rock or something with a SLIGHT curvature, I don't even bother with the curve mapping and just let the laser think it's a flat surface. It will engrave fine.
If I sent a golf club for you to keep and practice on would you be able to show what it comes out like? Any design works I am curious about buying one but it’s expensive to find out it wouldn’t work the way I think
Are you in Australia? Might cost a bit to send it here 😅
Are you saying that the 40wat cant do any of this type of engraving?
Only on stainless steel without a laser prep spray. And it's not as dark or detailed either.
Exactly what I was wondering. It would be great if there was a comparison of the standard 40watt vs the IR diode
@@FeroxWJB the blue laser diode will only work on stainless steel, not other metals. It also cannot engrave as detailed as the IR module due to the laser focal point size. IR can also engrave on plastics. Blue laser cannot. But if you're looking to engrave or cut wood, the blue laser is way better - it has the power to cut through wood and work faster.
Just bought a laser 40w and this module. Can it get depth on metal if I did multiple passes?
There is a noticeable dip in areas I laser slowly (stainless steel/brass). 1mm/s. However, it also creates dark residue. I use a toothbrush and soap to clean it off.
But in no way will it have an effect like a fiber laser. E.g. F1 Ultra.
Nice video, are you open to idea ??
About what?
@@DarrenYeoYT how to connect