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I ordered an FC13 but will very likely send that back. Due to reviews I saw of the run time and its ability to hold lumins. Great torch otherwise but I need runtime using this on my bike on long cycle rides! You need more lumins there too esp off road parts. But I heard the IF24 FET version is actually not bad, a better quality driver, pretty good for a FET. Should be interesting to see how the pro and non pro compare on efficiency. I realise the warmer bulb loses a bit (probably why it is 1800 lumins not 2000)! But warm is nice/worth it.

Hi mate if I get some time this weekend I'll try run one. Been a bit busy lately. You might be able to find other reviews.. check out piercing the darkness. He does full runtime tests.

I don't have the TD05 unfortunately and yes the light I tested at the end is the TD01C.

Hi mate, that would be the better version to get if you were choosing between that and the C8+ The bezel is going to be large anyway so might as well have the extra battery capacity of that 21700

There should be a blue indicator light that shows it's charging. Be careful! This light doesn't have reverse polarity protection. If you put the battery in backwards, it will spark and potentially hurt you.

Wouldn't be the first time 😂

They have a buck driver version of this light now that's better in my opinion :D

@@DarrenYeoYT sweet thanks fr letting me know brother also hows it like living over in the OUTBACK lol or where ever it is that you live at im sure you dont have to deal with crazy people all the time lol or drug addicts like in the US and expecailly in NEW YORK shit is so sad i dont know not one person besides family members that arnt on drugs my sister is and evereyone else i know is but theres a couple people i know that arnt on drugs or are loosers lol i could only wish to know what it would be like to live in a country where they dont even yell at each other lol and where all people are welcome now i know it cost allot of money tyo live over there and thats something my amily never had is money and im glad because we grew up so close and we lived under bridges and everything whole family living in tents and stuff not because we where drug addicts but because we where all poor and we where enjoying out liuves being free of society until we got older and the cops started to harrase us all the time for doing nohing and we had to grow up and get jobs jst to servive and have food for the day and still do so i could only wish to know what its liek to live like you do

I have individual review videos of each on my channel, the runtime graphs are included in both. But I didn't run any longer runtime tests until the light switches off. but for sure, the buck version should have sustained, flat output, whereas you will see the non buck version slowly drop in output over time.

The M2 feels more balanced and easier to pocket due to the smaller bezel. But M1 has better long distance performance due to the reflector. I still prefer the M1 due to that.

Hi mate, no they don't but I asked Wurkkos the other day and they said they are planning one for 2025.

I think you'll like the green more if long range performance is what you're after. Nearly 1km range :D

I think a lot of flashlight enthusiasts are just holding out for some kind of power outage 😂 I like that olight are now using normal USB C charging on their latest lights. But they do have proprietary batteries too so if you're counting on them in an emergency, you'll want to have spares of their batteries.

@@DarrenYeoYT We had an unprecedented neighbourhood-wide blackout at night sometime in late March and I was caught with having half-full USB power banks and a shortage of powerful flashlights at home! 😥 It's a pass from me for anything that has an internal or proprietary rechargeable. I want to be in total control of the cells and to be able to replace them myself. I've also had enough of cheap rechargeable micro-USB flashlights (you know, the ones with laser white 7500K temps) that are sealed at the factory with no access to their batteries or lanterns that use disposable AA/C sized cells. Still, this Olight electric lantern recreates the nostalgia in a good way, it really looks like an antique oil lamp from the 1930s!

Yes sorry I meant to say 1km

Look like a winner man. Also has a regulated driver?

No problem 👍

Thanks Ryan

Don't like Wurkkos?

Hmm good question, I'm pretty sure this is the linear as I didn't specify to have a buck driver put in.

Full review is out now: ruclips.net/video/I2pwF84BbAU/видео.html

Better with the 18650 tube, as I can't seem to get full brightness with the 18350 cells I own

@@DarrenYeoYT yeah thats why i had to buy the 18650 tube for this light lol

Yes still have the two mate. I'm not a fan of the T2 as the interface is neither tactical nor EDC friendly. I'd get the T2 Tac if you really wanted it, for instant access to turbo. The P16 has a larger head but all the tactical features + 1 step access to strobe. Similar throw performance with both (412 vs 484m range, P16 with longer range). Think I'd go the P16 if I had to choose between the two.

@@DarrenYeoYT This is really helpful. Also considering the price, the p16 is much cheaper for the same performance. Maybe I'm just liking the form factor more on the T2. Thanks again!

I have td02-03-04 all three very good lights

Thank you 😊

Thank you mate

Yeah unfortunately the step down is quite severe on all besides the TD01C. Buck driver would help a lot. Still great lights though.

My least fav is the TD02 because of the UI and average performance. Think I like the TD01C and TD03 best. TD04 steps down quite a lot as you can see

@@DarrenYeoYT THANKS for sharing brother

Thanks mate

Well. I think there's a lawsuit going on

Haha yes TD04 is awesome. But it would be better with a buck driver, like the TD01C. TD05 is missing because I don't one. Not a fan of the larger head and small rubber button. But it throws well apparently.

Hey mate, I think one of those cree xhp35 hi LEDs in warm 3000K would be perfect in the L21B or M1. Thanks for your support! Glad your enjoying my videos.

@@DarrenYeoYT dang wish ide have read this sooner, bad bout checking inbox, already got the sft40 one coming, and I'm kind of a tint snob but pulled the trigger, maybe if I don't like it Amazon won't charge to send back

Thank you!

Thanks mate :)

Normally if a light has a side switch, I'll go for a flooder LED :P I'm just so used to those long range tactical lights that I've separated them out in my head. How do you find the anduril UI?

@@DarrenYeoYT Side switch = flooders? That's all right by me mate. 🙂 Just some background about my lifelong fascination with flashlights: Back in the 70s, my parents didn't buy many toys for me so in my pastime I got hold of the kitchen torch and batteries. When they took me to the emporium, instead of traditional toys I asked for anything that had AA cells and a lightbulb, e.g. flashlights that looked like a tiny book and toy "ray guns" that shone light at the end of the barrel. 😀 My favorite flashlights were the ones with the "D" sized batteries (we're talking Eveready and National zinc carbon disposables) and once in a while I would find an Eveready torch that used three D cells in someone's home and one of my uncles used to bring his 4-cell "long torch" to our village. You could say that for decades I relied on the twin side switch chromed torches with the old school incandescent bulb technology. The chromed flashlights had a momentary on/off switch for signalling, plus a sliding mechanical switch for permanent activation while the plastic Eveready flashlights had a round rubber switch and were the mechanical on/off toggle kind. I came across Maglites in the mid 80s when I visited Singapore but they were too expensive for me at the time. So I never owned a Maglite in my life, although my younger brother got a few for his birthdays. Fast forward to 2004, I bought my first LED flashlight and it's an Inova T3 with TIROS optics that used 2x CR123A cells. Three years later I purchased an Inova T2 with what I think is a 4000K LED and it was a floodlight instead of a thrower like the T3. Incidentally, both were tail operated FLs and they're out of production. They are both still working to this day but I seldom use them as CR123A cells are costly and hard to find at the convenience store. I never bought tactical FLs since then but settled on those ready-to-use Energizer AA "flooder" pen lights which had multiple LEDs. It wasn't until at the end of 2022 when I bought a cheap "10,000 lumen" Shustar 26650 format zoomable flashlight with a COB side light. It reminded me of a Jedi light saber and is really bulky and heavy. Comes with a "P70 wick" or whatever it means, but its color temp was way above 7000K, far too cold a color temperature to illuminate the backyard. While the Shustar is dazzlingly bright when the beam is looked head on, the beam pattern is not practical. Its Shustar branded 26650 lithium ion cell registered only 2,460 mAH when I tested its capacity with my Liitokala M4 charger. 😞 So, last March I started to catch up with modern flashlight technology and spent a week researching into the basics, e.g. flooders vs throwers, Cree vs Luminus, XHP70.3 vs 70.2, domed vs dedomed emitters, IMR/INR/ICR lithium ion chemistries, high discharge cells - the whole works. I only learned about the Convoy brand after subscribing to your channel (thank you for the informative videos!) and am still learning about Convoy's Group vs Mode versions and Osram W1/W2 LEDs. I'm comfortable with either side switch or tail end button flashlights. After all, I grew up using side switch FLs before graduating to those Inova tailcap tacticals. 🔦😀 I have to admit that I was initially overwhelmed with the Anduril UI and a year ago, I found reviews of Anduril flashlights amusing. Who the heck could remember all those click combinations anyway? Then I remembered one thing: I started my career as a mainframe and IBM PC applications programmer in the early 90s. If I had written thousands of lines of code in PL/1, COBOL II and Clipper programming languages in my lifetime, so what's the deal with Anduril anyway? So, my very first Anduril based flashlight is the Wurkkos TS11. I practiced the basic click combinations daily and by the time I bought the Sofirn SC31 Pro, IF22A and Wurkkos FC13 I had already memorized getting into the blinky modes, the strobe group modes and avoiding 5 clicks which will get me into a semi-permanent, momentary mode. The key is to learn Anduril 2.0 a little each day, rather than trying to memorize the entire flowchart. 🙂 You can imagine when I had a taste of the "simple UI" SC35T, TD04 and TS23 flashlights that they felt pretty basic to me but once in a while, it's nice to use a torch that doesn't need me to perform any factory reset should I lose my way down the Anduril rabbit hole. 😂 Mate, give me an Anduril 2 torch and the first thing I'll do is to configure it for tactical strobe with a Click->Click->Hold (3H) button combination. Momentary Turbo is always within reach from the off position with a Click->Hold (2H) while Turbo is a mere Click->Click (2C). I understand that Anduril is not everyone's cup of tea but I've conditioned myself to be comfortable to using a flashlight with or without Anduril! 😀 Ironically, it's the non-Anduril lights that usually confuse me as the switching modes differ from one flashlight model to another! 🔦☺

Might burn the LED out in this host 😅

@@DarrenYeoYT there's only one way to find out.....

Yeah that's the annoying thing about these new ports. I think they tried to make them more low key.

Interesting, is that the one with a buck driver?

@@DarrenYeoYT Yes, according to the specs I saw it has a Buck driver. They have the limited edition blue one on sale for just $22 US on the Wurkkos site. I bought the gold WK03 on Amazon today for $20, possibly also a limited edition. It also has a 519a emitter and a Buck PWM circuit.

Hi buddy, the cheapest place is here: Get the Convoy M1 here 👇 www.aliexpress.com/i/3256802150099712.html I don't get any commission from there, it's just where I recommend people. Simon from Convoy also has his own store now that you can find here: convoylight.com/ May be able to find it there also.

@@DarrenYeoYT thank you

I'd rather the Fenix if it were a survival situation as I can use other non-proprietary cells, charger. Otherwise the Warrior S3 looks and feels cooler haha.

@@DarrenYeoYTgot it !😊

@@DarrenYeoYT may you do a review on the edc35 vs pd36r pro

Haven't had any luck getting samples from Nitecore unfortunately ​@@matthewmoscozo6377

Nice one mate, enjoy :D

Nice man, it's one of my favs. Looks classy and love how the dial catches the light at night. Mine's still going strong and I wear it most weeks.

They look similar in size despite the battery size difference

Yes. The TA20 clip is sturdier though. Sits under the tailcap so won't go anywhere.

might go back to the old spot for the next round of shots... Haha, just one more light!

Sorry, it's fixed now

@@DarrenYeoYT Thanks! BTW, where did you buy the deep carry clip that you have on your S8? Can't find it anywhere.

It's from my Nitecore mh12se ​@@MichaelBurko

Glad it was helpful!

@@DarrenYeoYT On one of Convoy's sales pages on Aliexpress for the S8, they offer a bunch of different LEDs, three of them are LED, any idea on the differences? Is there a web page that explains these in any more detail? KP CSLPM1.F1 green light KP CSLNM1.F1 green light KT CSLNM1.13 green light

No, I would go for the FC12 still. It's more compact (slim) and simple UI. I'm not a fan of Anduril for my EDC light as I want to be able to access turbo easily.

@@DarrenYeoYT Thank you for being honest. I generally choose one with the most lumen output and/or throw range for the same battery format. Having Anduril 2.0 is plus as I get the most flexibility from a flashlight.🙂