Suggestion: Cover the front of your printer, even the front edge of the vat, with Saran Wrap(cling film) to protect from resin drips and spills. Once it’s nasty, just take it off and throw it away and replace.
I've been doing the heat trick for a few years now. I will say be careful, heating it vaporizes the IPA, which is bad to breathe. It also vaporizes any uncured resin and that's REALLY bad! Wear a proper respirator please!
Man, I received my Phrozen Sonic Mega 8k about a month ago and a test print. Wow for some reason I didn't anticipate all the more work it goes into using a bigger printer... Ive been putting off using it because I have a list of things to buy and watching this video helped give the push I needed! Thanks!
I just recently tried the heat trick for support removal and became an instant convert. I'm just using a regular old hair drier and it works fantastically. I'd be a little worried the heat gun would be too hot, but looks like you were doing fine with it! I'm also planning on using one of those pumps for the Jupiter when it arrives. Currently looking like mid-to-late June, and I'm excited!
@@UncleJessy used it again just a few mins ago lol. Doing Megs Empinado's Snake-eyes man the detail in every area is insane!!! I'm using the lowest setting and as Unk over there said keep moving back and forth till its warm. It removes like 🧈
Wow, that video was exactly what I needed. It was like you made it for me. I have a Saturn S along with the wash and cure stations. Brand new to resin printing so this helped a ton.
I keep a box of alcohol swabs for cleaning small things and my fep sheet. I also keep a bottle of cheap hand sanitizer around for when I accidently touch something resin-y. The alcohol the hand sanitizer keeps your hands from being super sticky until you can go wash them.
Something minor, but you can use one of the cleaning wand brushes that are spherical to better clean out the syringe. Use some IPA with the brush as well. Edit: I will have to try and use the lunch tray, that definitely is an ingenious idea!
Maybe a follow-up video talking about some of the support and exposure tweaks for large format machines? Bigger plate means higher peel forces. Bigger LED array means more heat on the LCD. etc
I thought i had big syringes, that one is ridiculous but yeah i use it also for pouring resin, for cleaning large prints i have large plastic containers and i basically put the model there and use a large brush and dip it in IPA then over the model several times with IPA then water. I also pour sometimes IPA using a large syringe over the model. IPA releases annoying fumes so i'll use respirator mask. For curing i made a curing box out of cardboard, aluminum foil on the inside and the uv lamp on the top, also have small solar power turntable that rotate when they receive uv light.
I’ve been going through a lot of these growing pains with the Phrozen Sonic Mega 8K. I echo all of your comments on silicon mats, gloves, and towels! As for washing, I bought a sealable plastic bin from my local Ace Hardware. It fits the build plate perfectly, so I can wash it off. And when I’m done, I can get most of the large prints in there and rinse them off manually. Love the tip of the metal bucket with UV lamps. I’ve been curing everything outside, but that sounds like a good option too. Good stuff! 🤙
Great content. You’ve convinced me to add a resin printer. Who is the Mask file from? I did check out the link and files from mention but couldn’t find it.
Hi Jessie! Thank you for the resin tips! One question; While I love the practicality of silicone mats for making clean up easier, I've read that some silicone mats can accumulate electro static charges, and I'm wondering if these could cause damage to printers, if placed directly on them via random electro static discharges? I'm trying to see if there are any large silicone soldering mats out there that have a top layer of silicone (for easy clean up) with an antistatic layer and a grounding cable of some kind. Still looking, but if you have any thoughts on this, please let me know!
Late to the party here, does the Jupiter have a "tank clean" feature and do you recommend using features like this? Where the printer essentially just cures the entire FEP area and you can peel it clean off taking all the junk with it?
One issue is dealing with dirty IPA. Fortunately, that problem has been solved by others with similar situations. If you look up 'methanol recovery', you'll find *PLENTY* of tutorials for cleaning alcohols in a simple, easy, safe, inexpensive manner using a vacuum distillation setup. As a bonus, if you take enough care with the process and temperatures, even most of the *water* can be left behind, so, if you can't /buy/ 99% IPA where you are, you can /make/ it.
I use a cat litter tray with my mega 8k. I put it under the build plate as I remove it from the printer. This prevents drips on the floor or bench. I use a paint brush and about 200ml of used ipa for the first stage clean. The second stage I use a large ultrasonic cleaner and the alcohol bag method with the large high strength zipplock bags from ebay. This gets the insides of models very clean.
I just upgraded from and Epax E6 to the Saturn... and boy is that a jump in messiness. Definitely recommend making the build plate hanger (or ears) and letting the plate drip for longer than you expect. Those big plates don't shed resin near as fast as the small ones.
Syringes! Why didn't I think of that, especially with my mini resin printer, plus it has a kind of a natural filter from layer peels with that small aperture. Yet again your channel changes things for the better for me.
I still say brushing parts with a chip brush dipped in IPA is the best way to clean. It's thorough and you usually only need about half a shot glass worth of IPA.
Thanks for the steel/metal bucket idea. But i got an idea for alternative. If you don't have a way to get that kind of bucket, you can probably buy large container (example Ikea Samla plastic boxes or others like Jysk, depends where you live) and you can "wrap" insides of a box with aluminum foil (obviously the shiny side in). I also have troubles finding silicone mats big enough, even in pet stores they don't have big enough so again, plastic trays from Ikea are probably good enough for now.
What do you think of that technique of submerging the model in water for curing (like in your metal bucket?) Supposedly it helps prevent oxidation and that flaky powder buildup when curing some prints.
It helps cure faster and more evenly too (due to the refraction through the water). I use a glass bowl of water in my Mercury Plus to cure my smaller prints.
How about removing the support BEFORE the first cleaning of the print. I do this to avoid having to wash a lot of support. Then wash and then cure. I do this to avoid massive contamination of the IPA in the wash tank. I use hot water after IPA wash to make sure no white residue appear.
thanks for another great vid, having only recently got a saturn, I've been reading that alot of people advise to use heavy and medium supports instead of lights? what's your thoughts on this? is this support increase due to large forces involved with the large bed? do you still use mainly med / light combo or heavy / med combo? thanks for the advice in advance
Uncle Jess! Regarding using heat to remove supports would that at all caude any warpage in the models? Asking because I use my printer to print dental models and other dental related items, and accuracy there is important.
tried to get a wham bam flex plate for my Saturn + some of the silicone mats recently. Had my heart set on it for a while but they don't ship to the UK. So sadly I'm stuck with the metal spatula for now. Might have to give the syringe a go though for emptying the vat. that might be the solution to my problems. I have super small hands and a joint disability so lifting a vat full of resin is pretty difficult for me. I have always been hesitant to look into getting a jupiter because of the Vat size
Is the Jupiter big enough to print full scale helmets? Could you do a comparison among the large printers that you have (Jupiter, Phrozen Mega, Phenom)
I've had a really bad experience with the magnetic bases... on two of my printers I came back to find resin dripping from the top inside of the cover. I eventually realized that the flexible plate was being pulled/bent off the build plate during retraction and flipping resin up into the inside of the cover. It wasn't badly applied... the magnetic base was fine, but the plate was bending and then shooting resin up into the printer when it clipped back into place.
What I'd like to find out is what's the best way to recycle IPA after a few prints so it can be used again to wash. Over here, even after the pandemic supply shortage has ended, 1 litre of IPA still costs over $15, if not 30, so I'd like to reuse the stuff as much as possible.
mason jar for a few days to a week to let sediment settle. (covered) Set out in sun from a day or so to cure small bits still floating. (covered) Pour the top of the solution into a clean jar. The bottom bit you will need to pour into something disposable to let the last of the solution evaporate and fully cure what was left over to be thrown away. You can save most of your solution that way. It might still be a bit cloudy but it works. At least for me.
Im more struggleling with supports. I wanna minimize the touch up i have to do so i try fthin supports, but it sucks to have an 8 hour print fail while you sleep
I’m having a hard time with the adhesive melting with my flex plate on my Elegoo Mars 3 Pro. After about three to four weeks, the flex plate magnet begins to peel off the build plate. Thoughts?
Hey Jessy I love your videos but now that a lot of us have Jupiters or other large resin printers can you do a video on supports and orientation for the large prints like helmets and such?
Great tips for a guy just getting his first 3D printer this week. Do you have any suggestions on where to get a screen protector for the Elegoo Saturn S?
For the magnetic flex plate on the Elegoo Jupiter, did you need to 3D print a Z stopper to prevent the thickness of the magnetic plate from crashing into the screen when re-leveling? Or can I just put the magnetic Wham Bam on and re-level with no 3D printed Z stopper? Thank you!
Hey Uncle, I got my Jupiter last month, I also got the Wham bam flex plate but I am having issues with adhesion to the build plate. I have tried just about everything to fix the issue. do you have any tips on how to fix this?
Hi. I am just starting to learn about 3D print. I want to find 3D printer, to produce my Ball joint project. Seems like Resin printers are smoothest ones, but i live in apartment, with kids. And i read that resin printers have smell and it is not healthy to keep them in apartment. Is there filament printer, with decent print area, under 1000eur, that would be good enough, to print small parts without noticeable lines?
I don't think I trust myself to point the heatgun near my hands. I did get an old, nasty (and huge) crockpot from Goodwill for $7. Some elbow grease and oven cleaner and it came out just fine (I mean food is never going in that ever again, but it's not crusty). Also grabbed a big metal salad bowl (to act kinda like your bucket), a hair dryer, and a digital kitchen scale all for super cheap.
i use the heat gun trick for removing supports but you have to be careful with some prints because it will heat unevenly and also heat up small easily breakable parts that will still snap off with the supports. Also wear a mask because it creates fumes that are toxic
Any tips for gluing together large resin prints? I have a hard time getting the support surfaces completely flat when there is a key and have not had success with hot glue
Having an issue maybe you could help with. I just got my Jupiter and when leveling front left corner is tight but others are loose. All my print attempts fail. I have not been able to print one test print yet. I think some layers print then it sticks to FEP. Any advice?
The problem I had with mine is that I would tighten the handle way too much that it ever so slightly twists the bed. I would level everything and then tighten it too much so it's not level any more. To fix that I only tighten just enough where the bed doesn't slip off. No issues since then.
Not exactly about as large a volume as the printers in this video but I've had issues with printing bigger models on my mono x where the model but not he support will stuck to the vat, I tried using rain x and it helped but not fully solved the issue, any ideas?
@@WilliamMcdanielPure-Hammer I was using pre-supported models from Archvillain games, but they are quite thin, might add some custom thick ones and see how we go, thanks
Suggestion:
Cover the front of your printer, even the front edge of the vat, with Saran Wrap(cling film) to protect from resin drips and spills. Once it’s nasty, just take it off and throw it away and replace.
I've been doing the heat trick for a few years now. I will say be careful, heating it vaporizes the IPA, which is bad to breathe. It also vaporizes any uncured resin and that's REALLY bad! Wear a proper respirator please!
oh ok so that’s why my eyes were stinging haha
Nah ill be ok
@@Nijinja this comment is hilarious lol
Man, I received my Phrozen Sonic Mega 8k about a month ago and a test print. Wow for some reason I didn't anticipate all the more work it goes into using a bigger printer... Ive been putting off using it because I have a list of things to buy and watching this video helped give the push I needed! Thanks!
I just recently tried the heat trick for support removal and became an instant convert. I'm just using a regular old hair drier and it works fantastically. I'd be a little worried the heat gun would be too hot, but looks like you were doing fine with it! I'm also planning on using one of those pumps for the Jupiter when it arrives. Currently looking like mid-to-late June, and I'm excited!
I did it too last night worked fantastic
What temps are you peeps running on the heat gun? Duration of exposure?
Yeah low setting and keep it moving and worked great. Guessing a hairdryer would work as well
@@UncleJessy used it again just a few mins ago lol. Doing Megs Empinado's Snake-eyes man the detail in every area is insane!!! I'm using the lowest setting and as Unk over there said keep moving back and forth till its warm. It removes like 🧈
Wow, that video was exactly what I needed. It was like you made it for me. I have a Saturn S along with the wash and cure stations. Brand new to resin printing so this helped a ton.
Heck yeah! Welcome to the party
@@UncleJessy (I posted a comment about easily cleaning IPA. You might want to check into it and make a video.)
Great tips! Hoping to look into large resin soon! LOVE the heat gun trick! Will have to try it out!
I keep a box of alcohol swabs for cleaning small things and my fep sheet. I also keep a bottle of cheap hand sanitizer around for when I accidently touch something resin-y. The alcohol the hand sanitizer keeps your hands from being super sticky until you can go wash them.
Something minor, but you can use one of the cleaning wand brushes that are spherical to better clean out the syringe. Use some IPA with the brush as well.
Edit: I will have to try and use the lunch tray, that definitely is an ingenious idea!
Silicone mats are great, found the silicone pet food mat (one you sit under the food bowl) works like a charm and was for about $3-5
Yeah mine is huge but I’m 99% sure I could rip it haha. Works great for right under the printer
I did the same thing! The large pet mats on Amazon work great!
That's what I bought to go under my Peopoly Phenom, works perfectly, and was cheap!
Thanks for the video. Wham Bam has great products.
Thanks again for pointing us to WhamBam. I've loved their mats and plates.
Huuuuge difference between the cheapo one under my printer vs the wham bam. 99% sure I could rip my large black one 😂
Pie tins have been great for post processing for my saturn. cheap, easy clean up, keeps everything contained.
The flex plates and large syringe are a big help to add as i start to get into 3d printing
Im glad you still have the black panther I sculpted on the back man, great video
Maybe a follow-up video talking about some of the support and exposure tweaks for large format machines? Bigger plate means higher peel forces. Bigger LED array means more heat on the LCD. etc
I thought i had big syringes, that one is ridiculous but yeah i use it also for pouring resin, for cleaning large prints i have large plastic containers and i basically put the model there and use a large brush and dip it in IPA then over the model several times with IPA then water. I also pour sometimes IPA using a large syringe over the model.
IPA releases annoying fumes so i'll use respirator mask.
For curing i made a curing box out of cardboard, aluminum foil on the inside and the uv lamp on the top, also have small solar power turntable that rotate when they receive uv light.
I’ve been going through a lot of these growing pains with the Phrozen Sonic Mega 8K. I echo all of your comments on silicon mats, gloves, and towels!
As for washing, I bought a sealable plastic bin from my local Ace Hardware. It fits the build plate perfectly, so I can wash it off. And when I’m done, I can get most of the large prints in there and rinse them off manually.
Love the tip of the metal bucket with UV lamps. I’ve been curing everything outside, but that sounds like a good option too.
Good stuff! 🤙
Great content. You’ve convinced me to add a resin printer. Who is the Mask file from? I did check out the link and files from mention but couldn’t find it.
Hi Jessie! Thank you for the resin tips! One question; While I love the practicality of silicone mats for making clean up easier, I've read that some silicone mats can accumulate electro static charges, and I'm wondering if these could cause damage to printers, if placed directly on them via random electro static discharges? I'm trying to see if there are any large silicone soldering mats out there that have a top layer of silicone (for easy clean up) with an antistatic layer and a grounding cable of some kind. Still looking, but if you have any thoughts on this, please let me know!
I have heard that flex-plate is bad for resin printers, the suction is strong enough to pull the plate off its magnet which could fail a print
Late to the party here, does the Jupiter have a "tank clean" feature and do you recommend using features like this? Where the printer essentially just cures the entire FEP area and you can peel it clean off taking all the junk with it?
One issue is dealing with dirty IPA. Fortunately, that problem has been solved by others with similar situations. If you look up 'methanol recovery', you'll find *PLENTY* of tutorials for cleaning alcohols in a simple, easy, safe, inexpensive manner using a vacuum distillation setup. As a bonus, if you take enough care with the process and temperatures, even most of the *water* can be left behind, so, if you can't /buy/ 99% IPA where you are, you can /make/ it.
Waiting on my Jupiter. Thanks for the tips Uncle J!
How long does the ipa cleaning solution last and what do you do with it once it's no longer usable?
I use a cat litter tray with my mega 8k. I put it under the build plate as I remove it from the printer. This prevents drips on the floor or bench. I use a paint brush and about 200ml of used ipa for the first stage clean. The second stage I use a large ultrasonic cleaner and the alcohol bag method with the large high strength zipplock bags from ebay. This gets the insides of models very clean.
I just upgraded from and Epax E6 to the Saturn... and boy is that a jump in messiness. Definitely recommend making the build plate hanger (or ears) and letting the plate drip for longer than you expect. Those big plates don't shed resin near as fast as the small ones.
Im starting to like the resin printers. I think detail is better.
How would you do large prints? Sections that were sliced?
Does it matter on the type of screen protector and will it affect the quality of the prints?
I bought a silicone dog mat for my printer and it has saved my ass multiple times.
What if you get yourself a UV flashlight to flash set any spilled resin on your mats/work surfaces?
Syringes! Why didn't I think of that, especially with my mini resin printer, plus it has a kind of a natural filter from layer peels with that small aperture. Yet again your channel changes things for the better for me.
I still say brushing parts with a chip brush dipped in IPA is the best way to clean. It's thorough and you usually only need about half a shot glass worth of IPA.
Thanks for the steel/metal bucket idea. But i got an idea for alternative. If you don't have a way to get that kind of bucket, you can probably buy large container (example Ikea Samla plastic boxes or others like Jysk, depends where you live) and you can "wrap" insides of a box with aluminum foil (obviously the shiny side in).
I also have troubles finding silicone mats big enough, even in pet stores they don't have big enough so again, plastic trays from Ikea are probably good enough for now.
The heat gun trick was like wow ya I need to do that
What do you think of that technique of submerging the model in water for curing (like in your metal bucket?) Supposedly it helps prevent oxidation and that flaky powder buildup when curing some prints.
It helps cure faster and more evenly too (due to the refraction through the water). I use a glass bowl of water in my Mercury Plus to cure my smaller prints.
How about removing the support BEFORE the first cleaning of the print. I do this to avoid having to wash a lot of support. Then wash and then cure. I do this to avoid massive contamination of the IPA in the wash tank. I use hot water after IPA wash to make sure no white residue appear.
thanks for another great vid, having only recently got a saturn, I've been reading that alot of people advise to use heavy and medium supports instead of lights? what's your thoughts on this? is this support increase due to large forces involved with the large bed? do you still use mainly med / light combo or heavy / med combo? thanks for the advice in advance
Uncle Jess! Regarding using heat to remove supports would that at all caude any warpage in the models? Asking because I use my printer to print dental models and other dental related items, and accuracy there is important.
With the Jupiter do you have any additional enclosures to handle the fumes from the resin or is the charcoal filter enough?
I have a big charcoal air purifier that I run.
Perfect timing - expecting a large format one tomorrow
Thx for the tips! should be getting my first resin printer here this month (sonic mini 8k) and just purchased alot of these suggestions. Cant wait!
Any comments on just leaving the resin in the vat? Would it need a cover? Seems easier than emptying and cleaning that monster
tried to get a wham bam flex plate for my Saturn + some of the silicone mats recently. Had my heart set on it for a while but they don't ship to the UK. So sadly I'm stuck with the metal spatula for now.
Might have to give the syringe a go though for emptying the vat. that might be the solution to my problems. I have super small hands and a joint disability so lifting a vat full of resin is pretty difficult for me. I have always been hesitant to look into getting a jupiter because of the Vat size
I really want the anycubic m3 max... These larger value printers are pretty effin sweet
Is the Jupiter big enough to print full scale helmets?
Could you do a comparison among the large printers that you have (Jupiter, Phrozen Mega, Phenom)
Just seeing those gloves says to me....hey...this guy shops at harbor freight like me....haha
Great video. Thanks.
11:02 You said The Elegoo Mars 3 is your favorite. Out of all that you have, why is that?
Need to get my heat gun back!! And sad i missed the jupiter kickstarter holding out for the Australian retail release
I've had a really bad experience with the magnetic bases... on two of my printers I came back to find resin dripping from the top inside of the cover. I eventually realized that the flexible plate was being pulled/bent off the build plate during retraction and flipping resin up into the inside of the cover. It wasn't badly applied... the magnetic base was fine, but the plate was bending and then shooting resin up into the printer when it clipped back into place.
Awesome tips
Got any tips on lychee slicer settings today in 2024 as they don't work now? Is it still using CYB V1 or did they update it to CTB V4?
These are some great minis!
Can you add a link for the UV lights and the large Bucket please?
What I'd like to find out is what's the best way to recycle IPA after a few prints so it can be used again to wash. Over here, even after the pandemic supply shortage has ended, 1 litre of IPA still costs over $15, if not 30, so I'd like to reuse the stuff as much as possible.
i use a air distiller.
mason jar for a few days to a week to let sediment settle. (covered) Set out in sun from a day or so to cure small bits still floating. (covered) Pour the top of the solution into a clean jar. The bottom bit you will need to pour into something disposable to let the last of the solution evaporate and fully cure what was left over to be thrown away. You can save most of your solution that way. It might still be a bit cloudy but it works. At least for me.
Im more struggleling with supports. I wanna minimize the touch up i have to do so i try fthin supports, but it sucks to have an 8 hour print fail while you sleep
I’m having a hard time with the adhesive melting with my flex plate on my Elegoo Mars 3 Pro. After about three to four weeks, the flex plate magnet begins to peel off the build plate. Thoughts?
Great tips man!
Is there a screen protector for the Jupiter out yet?
I added a solar power laxy suzan in my uv lamp cure station. I have the same uv lamp he used on the bucket
He never posted a link to those UV lamps... curious which ones they are?
Hey Jessy I love your videos but now that a lot of us have Jupiters or other large resin printers can you do a video on supports and orientation for the large prints like helmets and such?
Great tips for a guy just getting his first 3D printer this week. Do you have any suggestions on where to get a screen protector for the Elegoo Saturn S?
For the magnetic flex plate on the Elegoo Jupiter, did you need to 3D print a Z stopper to prevent the thickness of the magnetic plate from crashing into the screen when re-leveling? Or can I just put the magnetic Wham Bam on and re-level with no 3D printed Z stopper?
Thank you!
peristaltic pump not a vacuum pump
Do you have a link for the clip tools etc you use? New to 3d printing. Just ordered the Saturn 2
CAN YOU TRY TO PRINT MY 3D MODEL TO THAT RESIN PRINTER I MAKE 3D MODEL BUT I DONT HAVE RESIN PRINTER THATS WHY I CANNOT SEE THE FINAL OUTPUT
Seems like it would be beneficial to put the resin in a vacuum chamber to remove the air in it
Did you test the weight capabilities of the jupiter flex plate? My super early bird should be here soon and a wham bam is waiting to be installed
Elegoo said they have a wash and cure in development for the Jupiter
Hey Uncle, I got my Jupiter last month, I also got the Wham bam flex plate but I am having issues with adhesion to the build plate. I have tried just about everything to fix the issue. do you have any tips on how to fix this?
is Simple Green the same thing as "Mean Green"?
Hi. I am just starting to learn about 3D print. I want to find 3D printer, to produce my Ball joint project. Seems like Resin printers are smoothest ones, but i live in apartment, with kids. And i read that resin printers have smell and it is not healthy to keep them in apartment. Is there filament printer, with decent print area, under 1000eur, that would be good enough, to print small parts without noticeable lines?
In August 2022, what large resin 3d printer would you recommend? Looking to print 15" size parts.
Is there anything special about the Whambam slip mat compared to the much cheaper and larger ones on Amazon?
Uncle Jess. What is your favorite large resin printer
Hi, can you share the link for the UV lights ?
I don't think I trust myself to point the heatgun near my hands. I did get an old, nasty (and huge) crockpot from Goodwill for $7. Some elbow grease and oven cleaner and it came out just fine (I mean food is never going in that ever again, but it's not crusty). Also grabbed a big metal salad bowl (to act kinda like your bucket), a hair dryer, and a digital kitchen scale all for super cheap.
Where did you get a screen protector for your Jupiter? I don't see it listed in the links above. Mine is coming and I'd like to be ready.
My unit is a beta unit so I have a lifted screen. Using an extra fep sheet at the moment
What's the largest area sla printer available right now for less than a couple grand?
Magnétic Flex Will work with phrozen mega 8k?
i use the heat gun trick for removing supports but you have to be careful with some prints because it will heat unevenly and also heat up small easily breakable parts that will still snap off with the supports. Also wear a mask because it creates fumes that are toxic
Do you dilute your Mean Green?
Hi all,
I didn't understand what printer is this Jupiter. what's the full name?
thank you
I would love to learn how to do this amd own one..id be in heaven
You might want to be cognizant of the flashpoint of ipa before going too full on with the heart gun.
I worry the adhesion on a magnet plate that size will hold up for very long when doing alot of very large prints
What is the best printer for new to the game
I want the phrozen mega 8k but it's always sold out
Any tips for gluing together large resin prints? I have a hard time getting the support surfaces completely flat when there is a key and have not had success with hot glue
He literally just did a video completely about this. I think his last video.
Where i can buy elegoo jupiter; i cant find a store that sells it
How can you do so much work without a mask? I go near my printer when it’s printing or near uncovered resin and my eyes and nose burn
Gonna have to look for an affordable gallon of Resin.
What is you favorite large printer ?
I am in the market for a large printer
Just got a photon x for $100 🤩
Do you foresee elgoo making a larger resin printer, i.e. 300x300 vat?
anyone kno if a flezable magnetic buildplate exists for an anycubic M3 Max?
Having an issue maybe you could help with. I just got my Jupiter and when leveling front left corner is tight but others are loose. All my print attempts fail. I have not been able to print one test print yet. I think some layers print then it sticks to FEP. Any advice?
The problem I had with mine is that I would tighten the handle way too much that it ever so slightly twists the bed. I would level everything and then tighten it too much so it's not level any more. To fix that I only tighten just enough where the bed doesn't slip off. No issues since then.
Thank ypu.
Jesse come on! SAFETY GLASSES!
Links to the UV lights??
Thanks for the video! I do suggest you protect yourself from the UV lamps (e.g. don't shine them directly on your hands :( )
Not exactly about as large a volume as the printers in this video but I've had issues with printing bigger models on my mono x where the model but not he support will stuck to the vat, I tried using rain x and it helped but not fully solved the issue, any ideas?
Your support connections are too thin and are not holding properly to the model.
Def add a few large/thick supports to the lower area of the model. This has alleviated most if not all of my issues with prints sticking to NFEP.
@@WilliamMcdanielPure-Hammer I was using pre-supported models from Archvillain games, but they are quite thin, might add some custom thick ones and see how we go, thanks