After a whole season of trouble-free riding, today I take the gear box & clutch assembly apart just to see how the stock clutch is wearing in & how the other parts are doing...!!
Break Clean works great on removing all the dust and any other grit on the gear box clutches. With very little wear they look like new again. Great Job on the video.
I burned through clutches pretty quickly when I was using those single chain Transmissions that are geared really high, once I switch to the Belt transmission that went away, I can get about 2,000 miles out of one of those clutches now.
@@EcoTransGaspoweredBikes I have the Night transmission from Gass bikes, a little pricey but it's been solid for a couple years. They're geared pretty low though,you have to go to like a 36 in the back to get any top end.
@@mjsmjs7905 That sounds like that would work great for me, I'd rather have the low end torque beings I don't ride at hi-speeds anyway.. 🚴♂🚴♂12 to16 Mph. is about my cruising speed.. 👍👍
@@EcoTransGaspoweredBikes, you should give it a try huge Improvement, huge difference in the gearing like 7mph different. I have a 36t on mine, that's like running a 50t on the single chain transmission.
@@EcoTransGaspoweredBikes Thanks! Getting the clutch springs adjusted properly proved a bit time consuming but I got her. I run a 36 tooth sprocket so takeoffs are a bit slower than my built 2 stroke. Otherwise she gets good speed and cruises smooth
That would be handy if I had the room to put a drain hose on mine, at least I only have to change the oil a couple times a year so it's not really an actual problem, just would of been handy if they put the drain facing the side..👍
I was wondering if you think it would be a good idea to drill a hole in the motor mount to be able to access the drain oil plug without having to loosen the engine? Thank you, for another good informative video.
My engine is too close to the edge of the mounting plate to drill a drain plug hole, but that is a good idea if your engine is positioned a little more to the right side.. 👍
I have been using a oz or two of Heat water remover in my tank in the winter, and try to start once a month. Once I put an ounce or two and let it sit for about 10 minutes it comes roaring back.
I have used Heat in my car's & trucks for years, I changed to Seafoam a few years back when the fuel manufactures started putting Ethanol in the gas, I found that by adding more alcohol ( Heat) was becoming corrosive to the metals inside of the carb. so, I changed to Seafoam myself. Also Heat works fine (if you will) in a 4-stroke type engine but if you put it in a 2 stroke mix it will ruin that engine in about 25-30 feet of riding. Seafoam works fine in either situation & won't damage the 2 stroke guys bikes.. 🚴♂🚴♂I'm not saying your method is wrong, I'm just sharing what I have found through the years..
Thanks for all of your help. I haven’t bought a motorized bike yet but I’m interested. My question I’ve been looking at the 4stroke kits it appears that some have 5/8 straight shaft and some have tapered. From what I can tell straight shafts are harder to find clutches for them. I’m I correct about that?
I've had both through the years & I prefer the chain. I found that after a little time the belts started to develop dry cracks due to the heat from the engine.They aren't the highest quality of belts so I have more faith in the chain type. 👍👍
I have a Schwinn chopper and I cannot pedal it anymore but I have been going through clutches very quickly. What would I do if I wanna be able to ride it like a motorcycle and not have to worry about going 0 to 60 in one second
In my experience, if you're going through clutches rapidly the rider usually isn't pedaling enough on take off getting their weight moving & it's putting to much strain on these little clutch pads. I don't believe you'll be able to get it to take off from a standing start like a motorcycle with long lasting success unless you put a cvt transmission on it & put a larger sprocket on the rear wheel. This set up will give you a lot more low-end torque that you will need for take off..🚴♂🚴♂
My clutch pads wore out 3 days . Iran it without pads it worked fine but the the out put shaft is to long ,then the bearings and housing fell apart the chin came lose..is the shaft on the belt drive Trans also long like that..? .. p.s I added a. Caterer bearing and plate to help with the stress..HELP IM LOST. thank you
Allow me to offer you my educated guess as what's happening without me actually being there with you : If it's eating up clutch pads that soon it's usually because the rider is not pedaling enough from a dead stop to get their weight moving & it's overloading the little clutches potential. The more you help it ( pedaling) on take off & the easier you apply the throttle to get going the longer these parts will last.👍. 2nd - After the clutch pads were gone the transmission just ate it's self up after that.. They do make a short shaft or long shaft transmission that may help depending on what type of bike you have. Lastly, the transmissions with the belt drive are a little quieter when operating but they do operate the same way, the key to longevity with these things is the same, you have to pedal a little more on all dead stop take offs & apply the throttle smoothly & not apply the throttle so quickly that you feel the clutch jerking violently( I'm sure you know what I'm talking about on this one) just let the bike get going a little more casually.. You have to remember that they are not motorcycles..!! If you remember these couple steps your parts will last a long time.. 👍If I were you I would just purchase a new transmission. belt drive or chain, long or short shaft ( whatever works on you're bike best) take it a little easier on you're take off's & you're problems should be solved.. I hope this helped 🙏& you can get miles of trouble free riding.. 👍👍🚴♂🚴♂
This clutch is the standard one that came with the engine kit. I'm familiar with the clutch you're talking about, it has the three little clutch pads instead of the two full halves like the one that came in this kit.. It's sad to say that you never know what clutch style they are going to send you when buying the 4-stroke engine kit until you get it. 😭 The one that came in this kit does work a lot better than the 3 Pad ones I've had in the past, if you're having slipping problems with the 3 pads one, I'd definitely just change the gear box with one that comes with the better clutch because it's never going to improve. 😥If you don't mind I'd like to share some facts that others for some reason don't share the truth about on these pages or forums about these clutches, 1st- you are never going to find one that is completely smooth when taking off they are all jerky because they are a dry clutch ( it's just how they are until they are fully engaged after you get moving at a moderate speed) The only way to get the smoothest take off possible is to get your weight moving & slowly & smoothly apply the throttle. 2nd- The gear boxes that have the belt drive vs chain drive are not really the answer to all your prayers. They are pretty good because most of them are geared a little lower & do help a bit with takeoff, but they too are jerky if you don't ease into the throttle. The downside of these is that the gear box takes a lot of heat from the engine & the belt doesn't hold up the best (they aren't using the best quality rubber in these China parts) & I've seen them break & strip the teeth off the belts after a certain number of miles. I'm personally a chain gear box user because the chain is steel & heat doesn't affect it, I've never had a chain break yet. 👍Anyway the choice is up to you & I hope some of this information answered your question & helps you decide what the best route to go for you is, sorry my reply was so long.. Happy riding. 🚴♂🚴♂
It's been a while since I tried to get specific parts for these transmissions, I never could find a place to just get a chain or a belt, you might want to try gasbikes.com or even Bike berry. Everyplace I ever tried always seemed to just want to sell you a complete unit when it came to these transmissions. I wish you luck.. 🙏🙏
Can you give me a little more description? Are you saying your engine doesn't have enough power to carry you up hill or is your engine revving up but doesn't carry you up hill? I have a few hills around here that I have to go up & mine actually picks up speed as it goes up which was a surprise to me when it did that. Also, I would guess it would depend on how big of a hill you're trying to go up, I think we only have one hill here that I do have to help it by pedaling about 3/4 the way up it.. 🚴♂🚴♂
@@georghocevar1354 Beings I'm not there with you to look at it directly I can offer a couple suggestions. 1st check how the pads are wearing & look at the wear marks on the clutch bell housing to make sure the pads are riding flat inside the housing, ( These are China parts remember.) & Sometimes the quality of a certain part from time to time aren't the best. 2nd Check the spring that holds the clutch pads in place to make sure each clutch pad shoe is free to move out toward the clutch bell housing when you are applying the throttle, sometimes the spring is too stiff for whatever reason & the clutch pads don't fully engage to grip the bellhousing when you're applying the throttle & that would make the clutch slip under a load.. 3rd Make sure there is no oil on the pads or bellhousing, that would also make it slip under a heavy load. Lastly you could order a different spring with different tension strengths, a lighter spring would allow the shoes to move out under a lower R.P.M & a stiffer spring would take more R.P. M's to engage the clutch pads fully.. If none of these options help you may simply just have to replace the whole unit, it could just plain & simple be a faulty clutch.. 🤷♂🤷♂
you ether have to have a belt drive or a double chain transmission to take off. the smaller transmissions suck ass unless you peddle at 15-20 mph to get going look at the 2 strokes clutch system it has the small crank gear turning a larger gear that should be the same way with the 4 strokes
I agree somewhat about what you're saying about the double chain & belt transmissions but none of the 4-stroke transmissions like to take off from a dead stop without a little help of pedaling to get the weight moving. The only transmissions I've ever seen that last & don't mind so much about taking off from a dead stop are the CVT Transmissions, but they can be a little costly & not a lot of people want to spend the extra money for them.. 🤷♂🤷♂I have found that if you just pedal the bike a couple bike lengths casually & roll into the throttle & not try to take off like a dragster from a dead stop these transmissions do OK.. You have to keep in mind that these are just motorized bikes & not motorcycles.. Hope you have a good year & ride safe.. 🚴♂🚴♂
Break Clean works great on removing all the dust and any other grit on the gear box clutches. With very little wear they look like new again. Great Job on the video.
I burned through clutches pretty quickly when I was using those single chain Transmissions that are geared really high, once I switch to the Belt transmission that went away, I can get about 2,000 miles out of one of those clutches now.
I may have to try one of those when I wear this one out... 👍
@@EcoTransGaspoweredBikes Thank you.
@@EcoTransGaspoweredBikes I have the Night transmission from Gass bikes, a little pricey but it's been solid for a couple years. They're geared pretty low though,you have to go to like a 36 in the back to get any top end.
@@mjsmjs7905 That sounds like that would work great for me, I'd rather have the low end torque beings I don't ride at hi-speeds anyway.. 🚴♂🚴♂12 to16 Mph. is about my cruising speed.. 👍👍
@@EcoTransGaspoweredBikes, you should give it a try huge Improvement, huge difference in the gearing like 7mph different. I have a 36t on mine, that's like running a 50t on the single chain transmission.
I just finished a 4 stroke build and haven't rode it yet, so this video came at the perfect time.
Good info and insight 👍
I'm glad that it may have helped you in anyway.. 👍👍 Hope you enjoy your 4-stroke bike 🚴♂🚴♂
@@EcoTransGaspoweredBikes
Thanks!
Getting the clutch springs adjusted properly proved a bit time consuming but I got her.
I run a 36 tooth sprocket so takeoffs are a bit slower than my built 2 stroke.
Otherwise she gets good speed and cruises smooth
another great informative video
Thanks 🙏
My oil drain is on the rear of the engine. I put a 10 mm oil drain hose on it. It’s fully stock. I also have a Phatmoto which I also love.
That would be handy if I had the room to put a drain hose on mine, at least I only have to change the oil a couple times a year so it's not really an actual problem, just would of been handy if they put the drain facing the side..👍
Thanks for the video. Hope the RT66 Rendevous had a good turnout.
Yes, I did. 👍 The parade got rained out Friday, but Saturday turned out really nice... I've got to put it all together so stay tuned...
I was wondering if you think it would be a good idea to drill a hole in the motor mount to be able to access the drain oil plug without having to loosen the engine? Thank you, for another good informative video.
My engine is too close to the edge of the mounting plate to drill a drain plug hole, but that is a good idea if your engine is positioned a little more to the right side.. 👍
I have been using a oz or two of Heat water remover in my tank in the winter, and try to start once a month. Once I put an ounce or two and let it sit for about 10 minutes it comes roaring back.
I have used Heat in my car's & trucks for years, I changed to Seafoam a few years back when the fuel manufactures started putting Ethanol in the gas, I found that by adding more alcohol ( Heat) was becoming corrosive to the metals inside of the carb. so, I changed to Seafoam myself. Also Heat works fine (if you will) in a 4-stroke type engine but if you put it in a 2 stroke mix it will ruin that engine in about 25-30 feet of riding. Seafoam works fine in either situation & won't damage the 2 stroke guys bikes.. 🚴♂🚴♂I'm not saying your method is wrong, I'm just sharing what I have found through the years..
@@EcoTransGaspoweredBikes good to know, I've never tried it on a two-stroke. I kind of gave up on those,
@@mjsmjs7905 I'm leaning that way myself.
the tips were good. thanks. I am thinking about a build quite like this. where do you get parts like clutch shoes?
You can get them on Amazon or E Bay or from most motorized bicycle engine dealers that sell 4- stroke engines .
Thanks for all of your help. I haven’t bought a motorized bike yet but I’m interested. My question I’ve been looking at the 4stroke kits it appears that some have 5/8 straight shaft and some have tapered. From what I can tell straight shafts are harder to find clutches for them. I’m I correct about that?
I don't believe so.. They are pretty easy to find, go-karts & Mini bikes use them so they are generally easy to find.
How ,where do I get that bearing
More of a question would you recommend the chain drive or belt drive transmission
I've had both through the years & I prefer the chain. I found that after a little time the belts started to develop dry cracks due to the heat from the engine.They aren't the highest quality of belts so I have more faith in the chain type. 👍👍
I have a Schwinn chopper and I cannot pedal it anymore but I have been going through clutches very quickly. What would I do if I wanna be able to ride it like a motorcycle and not have to worry about going 0 to 60 in one second
In my experience, if you're going through clutches rapidly the rider usually isn't pedaling enough on take off getting their weight moving & it's putting to much strain on these little clutch pads. I don't believe you'll be able to get it to take off from a standing start like a motorcycle with long lasting success unless you put a cvt transmission on it & put a larger sprocket on the rear wheel. This set up will give you a lot more low-end torque that you will need for take off..🚴♂🚴♂
My clutch pads wore out 3 days . Iran it without pads it worked fine but the the out put shaft is to long ,then the bearings and housing fell apart the chin came lose..is the shaft on the belt drive Trans also long like that..? .. p.s I added a. Caterer
bearing and plate to help with the stress..HELP IM LOST. thank you
Allow me to offer you my educated guess as what's happening without me actually being there with you : If it's eating up clutch pads that soon it's usually because the rider is not pedaling enough from a dead stop to get their weight moving & it's overloading the little clutches potential. The more you help it ( pedaling) on take off & the easier you apply the throttle to get going the longer these parts will last.👍. 2nd - After the clutch pads were gone the transmission just ate it's self up after that.. They do make a short shaft or long shaft transmission that may help depending on what type of bike you have. Lastly, the transmissions with the belt drive are a little quieter when operating but they do operate the same way, the key to longevity with these things is the same, you have to pedal a little more on all dead stop take offs & apply the throttle smoothly & not apply the throttle so quickly that you feel the clutch jerking violently( I'm sure you know what I'm talking about on this one) just let the bike get going a little more casually.. You have to remember that they are not motorcycles..!! If you remember these couple steps your parts will last a long time.. 👍If I were you I would just purchase a new transmission. belt drive or chain, long or short shaft ( whatever works on you're bike best) take it a little easier on you're take off's & you're problems should be solved.. I hope this helped 🙏& you can get miles of trouble free riding.. 👍👍🚴♂🚴♂
so that clutch you have- that’s not the standard 3 tooth one, do you like the one you have? is the engagement decent? holding up well?
This clutch is the standard one that came with the engine kit. I'm familiar with the clutch you're talking about, it has the three little clutch pads instead of the two full halves like the one that came in this kit.. It's sad to say that you never know what clutch style they are going to send you when buying the 4-stroke engine kit until you get it. 😭 The one that came in this kit does work a lot better than the 3 Pad ones I've had in the past, if you're having slipping problems with the 3 pads one, I'd definitely just change the gear box with one that comes with the better clutch because it's never going to improve. 😥If you don't mind I'd like to share some facts that others for some reason don't share the truth about on these pages or forums about these clutches, 1st- you are never going to find one that is completely smooth when taking off they are all jerky because they are a dry clutch ( it's just how they are until they are fully engaged after you get moving at a moderate speed) The only way to get the smoothest take off possible is to get your weight moving & slowly & smoothly apply the throttle. 2nd- The gear boxes that have the belt drive vs chain drive are not really the answer to all your prayers. They are pretty good because most of them are geared a little lower & do help a bit with takeoff, but they too are jerky if you don't ease into the throttle. The downside of these is that the gear box takes a lot of heat from the engine & the belt doesn't hold up the best (they aren't using the best quality rubber in these China parts) & I've seen them break & strip the teeth off the belts after a certain number of miles. I'm personally a chain gear box user because the chain is steel & heat doesn't affect it, I've never had a chain break yet. 👍Anyway the choice is up to you & I hope some of this information answered your question & helps you decide what the best route to go for you is, sorry my reply was so long.. Happy riding. 🚴♂🚴♂
We're can I find a replacement belt for the transmission
It's been a while since I tried to get specific parts for these transmissions, I never could find a place to just get a chain or a belt, you might want to try gasbikes.com or even Bike berry. Everyplace I ever tried always seemed to just want to sell you a complete unit when it came to these transmissions. I wish you luck.. 🙏🙏
Does yours go uphill, because mine doesen't
Can you give me a little more description? Are you saying your engine doesn't have enough power to carry you up hill or is your engine revving up but doesn't carry you up hill? I have a few hills around here that I have to go up & mine actually picks up speed as it goes up which was a surprise to me when it did that. Also, I would guess it would depend on how big of a hill you're trying to go up, I think we only have one hill here that I do have to help it by pedaling about 3/4 the way up it.. 🚴♂🚴♂
Clutch slipping
@@georghocevar1354 Beings I'm not there with you to look at it directly I can offer a couple suggestions. 1st check how the pads are wearing & look at the wear marks on the clutch bell housing to make sure the pads are riding flat inside the housing, ( These are China parts remember.) & Sometimes the quality of a certain part from time to time aren't the best. 2nd Check the spring that holds the clutch pads in place to make sure each clutch pad shoe is free to move out toward the clutch bell housing when you are applying the throttle, sometimes the spring is too stiff for whatever reason & the clutch pads don't fully engage to grip the bellhousing when you're applying the throttle & that would make the clutch slip under a load.. 3rd Make sure there is no oil on the pads or bellhousing, that would also make it slip under a heavy load. Lastly you could order a different spring with different tension strengths, a lighter spring would allow the shoes to move out under a lower R.P.M & a stiffer spring would take more R.P. M's to engage the clutch pads fully.. If none of these options help you may simply just have to replace the whole unit, it could just plain & simple be a faulty clutch.. 🤷♂🤷♂
I changed 6 clutches in 2 months, i changed the springs, should i change the reducer?
@@georghocevar1354 what is the reducer
you ether have to have a belt drive or a double chain transmission to take off. the smaller transmissions suck ass unless you peddle at 15-20 mph to get going look at the 2 strokes clutch system it has the small crank gear turning a larger gear that should be the same way with the 4 strokes
I agree somewhat about what you're saying about the double chain & belt transmissions but none of the 4-stroke transmissions like to take off from a dead stop without a little help of pedaling to get the weight moving. The only transmissions I've ever seen that last & don't mind so much about taking off from a dead stop are the CVT Transmissions, but they can be a little costly & not a lot of people want to spend the extra money for them.. 🤷♂🤷♂I have found that if you just pedal the bike a couple bike lengths casually & roll into the throttle & not try to take off like a dragster from a dead stop these transmissions do OK.. You have to keep in mind that these are just motorized bikes & not motorcycles.. Hope you have a good year & ride safe.. 🚴♂🚴♂
Why use an 8" extension to remove tranny bolts? Why not a 12" or 18"? That woulda been even funnier! 😂😂