"Non-serviceable" LED fridge light module. (with schematic)
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- Опубликовано: 21 янв 2017
- This module was sent to me by a chap called Mike because it had failed in his new Beko fridge. It's interesting because it is possibly designed to be cheaper to use than a conventional lamp holder and LED lamp, while also ensuring maximum profit if a replacement is needed out of warranty. (£20 plus shipping at the point of making this video.)
So here's how it works, how to test the LEDs and decide if perhaps one needs bridged to get it working again.
Keep in mind that the fridge must be unplugged from the wall before attempting to install or remove this panel, as it operates at mains voltage.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
There was a fault in the warranty timer. It wasn't supposed to die until the day after the warranty ran out.
Jim Fortune Hahahaha exactly!!!! Couldn't have said it better myself!
Против Глобал That's silly
NICHOLAS LANDOLINA It's called satire. Look it up!
Это называется сатиру. Поищи это!
Ha ha!!
But the warranty timer is real in some equipment - printers, for certain.
mickey thompson Is it a timer or a counter? I know the HP ink cartridges have counters to limit the number of prints you get from a cartridge. I think the printers are just built cheap so they can sell cheap so they can rope you into buying their idiotically expensive cartridges.
The real reason for lead free is so people like me who solder every day, are not exposed to the heavy metal. I no longer have to handle or breath lead. BGA are no more fragile, properly made lead free joints are not bad and soldering with lead free solder is no more difficult if you just get used to it, I no longer miss lead. Some areas of electronics are still using lead because of the worry of tin whisker, not brittle joints. Please get used to lead free, use a good soldering iron, Pace for example, add a little more heat and use a good modern solder with a good low fume flux. You will learn to love it Clive. Please keep doing the great videos and stay well and safe!
I liked how you sketched the circuit pathway on the photograph.
Very helpful.
Thanks for checking out my 'broken' fridge led Clive! Interesting that it works! In my fridge it didn't work at all from day 1, it never once powered on when I opened the door. I'm not sure what the engineer did other than replace the circuit board for a new one, but the moment he put the new one in and the fridge was powered on, the new light was working fine.
Maybe during manufacturing the original circuit board wasn't fitted into the slot correctly, something as simple as that.
Odd. He didn't replace the switch at all? Maybe it wasn't even plugged in....
I don't think so. After opening the fridge door to see the light didn't work, he unplugged the fridge, took off the plastic housing, pulled out the old circuit board, put a new one in that he had with him and then put the plastic housing back on. Fridge powered back on, light worked. He left the old led board on the side. Maybe the reason why he said this happens so often is because they aren't being fitted correctly when manufactured...
@@bigclivedotcom I was wondering if you could help with the same Led and the whole housing? I have a Beko fridge and the dial is not working for turning the fridge colder. I have ordered online a replacement only that due to Covid19 I wont be able to get an engineer come and fix it. Unfortunately I am unable to find a video or tutorial How to remove from the inside of the fridge. The Top of the fridge is glued to the fridge so it is very hard to remove. Thank you
For those who aren't aware, the Xbox 360 RRoD, aka "red ring of death" and PS3 YLoD "yellow light of death" were both blamed on the exact same issue (lead-free solder).
*For a second there I thought you made a giant working model...then I realized it was the usual laminated piece of paper.*
Yes, his photos are extremly accurate.
Hahahaha
I would sincerely hope that a photo would be accurate, chuckie!
Its good to be able to service things, its a damn shame more things aren't made to be serviceable! Keep up the good content!
Too many fuggin ic's and micro controllers
I fully agree, The rohs leadfree soldering was one of the biggest nonse decision made recently
We've been using lead-free for ages. If anything the higher failure rate is due to the number and size of pins modern components have: Old TVs didn't have sub 1mm pitch BGAs with almost 1000 pins running the show.
In fact, my fridge is actually the last place in my flat where there is still a tungsten lamp producing light. I've never thought of that! :-)
Maybe your oven too.
John D II Nope, that's gas powered and doesn't have a light in it - and I don't have a microwave, so the fridge is indeed the only one.
Nice to see your knuckle finally healing!
I'd think one reason for the zener is to protect the diodes from a voltage spike. One issue I have about capacitive droppers is that they conduct more as the frequency goes up. Get up in frequency to a momentary spike, the they don't drop much at all.
The motive is not to sell overpriced parts, but rather to force people to buy a new fridge because the light's broken and 'we don't keep that part'
same works with tv remotes, people abuse them, kids spill coke all over them pizza greasy fingers and kcik them about, but very hard to get the real remote for accessing menu and smart features, sure you may be lucky and have a tv thats a common model, but generally you will be paying in blood for one, i follow the japan model where people cover them in a plastic bag!
+jusb1066 I thought the Japanese model was to get a new television every 6 months.
i think that was more likely the early korean model or the old british model, those were rare to last even 3 years in my house, along with later vhs players!
+jusb1066 It was the Japanese model. There was nothing wrong with the televisions, VCR's, audio equipment etc, that they junked. They just wanted the latest model. I remember seeing junk piles of what looked like new kit. Perhaps things have changed now that more of that stuff is made in China.
+inaflap, ahh yes because of fashion, i was never a person to throw something away due to fashion, stuff is run till it dies here, till recently i still used a 1950's valve radio on the sideboard, i still have a crt portable in the bedroom (though nothing to watch on it cept dvd's), my last two flastscreen crt tv's barely got out of the warranty and plus i thought they were badly made, so waitied a while without a tv before i bought an lcd.
love listening to your voice Big Clive. Don't understand any of the electronics chat. I'm asleep now.
try freezing the capicitor, i had some lamps outside where electrolit reozen making lamp super dimm, but when i brought it home it worked just fine, i replaced the cap for solid state one and lamp work outside as well
I really like the way you draw the circuits. I've learned a lot watching your videos
Your videos content is very entertaining and fascinating.
Just about every video on the channel is
Hi,
The zenner diode is there to clamp spikes in case of heavy imperfect contact in the light switch which supply the lamp. Another role is to burn and fail shorted in case of an LED opens, thus protecting the capacitor from exploding and making a mess inside the fridge (and smell).
A friend of mine has an 80's-vintage (US) fridge that takes the type of lamp you call a "pygmy." That is, E14 base & a bell-shaped glass. Well, it burned out about 6 months ago & is no longer available from the manufacturer. Sol, I gave him an LED-filament candle lamp, which is still in there, working fine.
I was just visiting with my Uncle, who is a certified Ford Mechanic, runs his own shop, and has for over 45 years now, at any rate, we were discussing my Ford Edge, he compared the service price on some of the new GM cars, said that if one LED goes out on the Dash board, you can no longer replace just the LED but must replace the entire head with all gauges and speedometer, the works, so get the dash to light up once more, you can order that head for a bit over 8 thousand bucks, now, however there are aftermarket replacements available for 3 thousand bucks. This because the LEDs are sealed in the head now. Makes me want to get an old one and see if a fellow could find a way in and do the replacement for a few bucks instead, but I didn't wish to find out for fear I would be swamped with heads to replace LEDS in.
Lube your quicktest!
(And mine doesn't squeak! Thanks again for replying for what it was months ago! Handy tool to own.)
And just like that, I learned something. Never thought to wonder what ROHS meant. Thanks Clive! :D
Another interesting video. Thanks Clive. Happy Sunday.
Big C- Can you do a vid on your printer? It's a continuous ink system, right? You get some very nice prints with it!
I'd second that. Also, I really like this "Clive-CAD" method.
+mnelson10000 I noticed the bench colour in the picture was exactly matching the real bench colour. Very sharp/vivid pictures you print Clive !
I have an older Epson stylus photo r380 (a 6 color printer from 04 or thereabout ) with a cis system... i love having it. last year I bought a few 100 packs of matte photo paper and printed out all my favorite digital photos to have physical copies. I highly suggest a cis kit if you have a printer that accepts one and are ok with its fiddlyness... i have a 6 color purge page on an sd card i leave in the printer and print a few copies out every week or so to dump fresh ink into the print head and keep it from clogging or getting air in there..
I dont know what printer he has but i bet its one of those with built in CISS like Epson L210, fantastic-ass printer (but you do have to use original ink bottles, otherwise it clogs)
The LED module for my refrigerator is about 75 British Pounds, but thanks to Big Clive, there will be some testing done before I fork that over!
love the numbered diodes, very useful...
BigClive, a man who shows you the actual circuit, then take a picture of it, then draw it on a piece of paper for me to understand, but my brain always goes: "I Have No IDEARRRRRR"
Didn't really use to have much of an idea about this stuff, but I can follow nearly all of it now.
Very Cool Video Clive. Keep up the great work. Nick.
Love these mega blown up photos you use. Much easier to look at than a shaky hand :-)
Thanks for another fascinating video.
My GE fridge LED light went out.It was the transformer that stepped 120v to 23v DC.I used a laptop charger and saved over 300 dollars. I did not have a warranty.
Rob Carstuff my GE fridge is running strong. I have been in the house almost 10 years. Not exactly sure how old it is. Icemaker is starting to crap out. I have a good opinion of GE Products myself.
Maybe the fault was a duff solder joint and by applying the iron and solder made it good?
you are actually my favorite person on youtube
One thing I've noticed when you use the quick test and the power meter is that the quick test is using 0.2w before you close it (indicator bulb I would assume) so that would throw out low readings quite a bit.
Interesting stuff Clive. I recently had to replace some blown ccfl tubes in the light box of a daylight readable industrial led display (175x245). In the end I had to use some 6w cob panels which are not ideal - if you come across any large panels that are suitable a wee review would be good 😀. Keep up the good work!
Long time ago i learned from people who design boards and components that if you see some not really needed part(like that diode) or weird design of simple boards, it was made like that not because people behind it where lazy or they didn't had experience, but because it was designed to fail quicker.
Of course it's not like everything is made like that, but lots of time I see and hear about it.
It's not some hidden conspiracy, but simple business.
And like other people mentioned, everything is so "ECO" and power friendly, but because of those planned design flaws that keep money flow, we need to use x2 more time/power/components/tools to do or use most of our stuff. Eg I have old kitchen blender(almost 18yo) that take lots of power and its loud as hell and its made from old thick plastic... And it still work compared to 5-6 "new" supet-ultra-eco blenders that I had for past 8 years...
Too much small electronic in places where simple thing like eg bulb in fridge would be enough...
I wonder if condensation got on the board and lowered the voltage enough that the led's went out, looks a bit too open for being inside a fridge, it probably only had a simple cover for safety
natural
It would be quite interesting to explore the correlation between lead-free solder and the e-waste problem. I figure solder failure is a disappearingly small portion of the reason behind throwing stuff away, and consumerism is the true driver of the buy-discard-upgrade culture, but then again... What if electronics weren't seen as breakable-and-unfixable. A part of me yearns for a future with more repair professionals and a much higher re-use rate than today. It's awful, the amount of perfectly fine electronics that get "recycled" today.
It'd be interesting to pt in in the fridge for a bit and the re-test it. As you said, expansion and contraction plus lead-free solder isn't a happy combination. You may even have re-flowed a dry joint on the main power connector when you added the leads.
as much as I like LED lighting IMO an incandescent bulb is more suited for this environment (cold and damp) than an unprotected board like this
Only because they leave it unprotected and construct them for quick failure, otherwise it makes far more sense to use a low power LED and not dump tons of heat into your fridge every time.
MsSomeonenew because when it comes to reliability, on/off cycling with long time base.... the more complex solution is the better one .... a bulb is just a wire nothing to write home about. EconomyFaileneering at its finest, not intended by any true engineer
In the specific case of a fridge, every minute you leave the door open it's going to take the fridge compressor several minutes running while it draws ~700 watts to make up for all the heat you added. So if you think about it, it's probably consuming around 3500 watts during each second the door is open. So whether the light bulb draws 40 watts or 4 watts is irrelevant.
Gerald Monroe +1 nice one :-)
it's the same with vacuum cleaner and their EU labeling, now my A+++++ ultra efficient sukr just runs longer than the old tchernobyl D Rated Miele which was more efficient at doing the job hard and short.. but who cares for facts 😅 let's optimise my toothbrush which takes to much energy to run ...
It sure didn't appear that the board was conformal coated, yet I didn't see any components that would "switch off" if a circuit was bridged by water condensation.. I wonder if it was the power pins that after having been re flowed allowed this lamp to work again?
I love your videos they make me super happy and I like to think i Lern alot
A little dry lock lubricant would be good for those squeaking pins.
I used to put white lithium grease or something similar on things like door hinges and even in locks, but the amount of dust and grime it attracts is annoying. I found some Teflon dry lubricant at a local store, the bottle has lasted me years now, but if ever I have something squeaking and I don't want it to attract dirt I just use a drop of it. Works quite well.
Jesse Crandle BLASTER dry lube
My fridge developed an iced over freezer coils, letting the fridge warm up. Tech visited, heat gunned the coils, checked a few things then said 'fixed'. He had to return 2 months later to find a defrost timer wire, factory 'pre severed' between screwed down plastic panels deep inside!
"You don't want to leave your meter in the current setting when you do tests of voltage"
Oh, the fuses. The many, many, many fuses.
On the up side, I've only blown 1 since I got a clamp-meter. On the down side, that's because _every single other multimeter I have has the current fuses blown.
Well said re RoHS! "It made stuff so unreliable" - absolutely!
But manufacturers benefit from the legislated planned obsolescence.
While the junk goes to landfill, and pollution and energy use due to increased production
is much higher.
brother I hate lead free solder , it's crap , and it kills my tips on my irons !
Just use a flashlight, that way you can have your cake, and see where you left it in the fridge.
High res pin connector or dry joint prior to the reflowing of new leaded solder possibly?
have you done a video on them adapters like the bayonet to Edison screw one you showed
I have been hearing for multiple years about the evil of the lead free solder everywhere, yet I have 2 spools of lead free that I adore for their performance. on the other hand my roll and half of leaded solder are just is a horror show.... but then again everyone seems to have stories of lost socks in the washing machines and yet I have never even lost a single sock. makes me wonder if this stories are based on pre-assumed bias or I have been somehow singularly gifted by the universe to not experience them....
i wonder if it was the lead free solder not having a good joint on the pins you added your s
good solder to, to attach your wires. There by reflowing and fixing the failure?
I see the plugin meter is measuring 0.2watts I'm assuming that's the red neon in your high voltage clamp plug thingy so you can compensate the actual reading by 0.2 watts so around ~1.6watts with some loses
Big C, I am try to learn the reverse eng of pcb.
Why after zener diode, it is smoothing capacitor then res + led ? why not zener > res and capa + led ?
Is the capacitor in series before the rectifier being used here as a resistor basically, to drastically reduce the voltage ? I don't really understand how it's taking 230 and turning it into 50 odd volts
I'm not sure if it's still in effect but there was an exemption for RoHS on large BGA devices up until mid-2016, it may have expired or been renewed.
energy star rating is the reason for the change, plus you have to buy the part firm them at a huge mark up
I was quite disappointed when I saw the lighting of my new Gorenje refrigerator freezer combo I bought in 2016.
Of course it used a cheap capacitive power supply that only had a tiny SMD smoothing capacitor, so that the cold white low-CRI LEDs not only made the food look unappetizing, but also flickered noticeably.
As a result, I replaced the anachronistic lighting with three warm white 1 W LEDs on ’star‘ heatsinks, powered by a cheap Chinese 3 W constant current driver. Everything fortunately fitted in the available hollow and, knock on wood, still works after months. I don’t think my construction was more expensive than the original one.
14:05 They do a bit, but they recommend oiling the contacts if it's being used regularly.
I took this module out of my Beko fridge hoping that Clive had done a fix video. Symptoms exactly the same as his submitter.
how many pre RoHS devices would it take to equal one improperly disposed of car battery
RoHS apparently includes not only lead, but also Mercury (Hg), Cadmium (Cd), Hexavalent Chromium (Cr VI), Polybrominated Biphenyls (PBB), Polybrominated Diphenyl Ethers (PBDE), Bis(2-Ethylhexyl) phthalate (DEHP), Benzyl butyl phthalate (BBP), Dibutyl phthalate (DBP), Diisobutyl phthalate (DIBP)
mikokuijn I Didn't Know (IDK)
Notification squad? no? Do forgive me, I dont participate in these things usually, but I couldn't resist doing it just once. xD
Hello clive, where is best place to get mains rated, 1uF caps ? I have trouble finding them, there is a steampunk project i want to make that involves using 9 of them
Is that the same quick test? I don't remember it squeaking before and it looks cleaner than I remember haha
Thanks for showing us how it plugs in 🙈
i think also LEDs create less heat than normal bulbs, so if you accidentally leave your fridge open with the light on it will get hot less quickly?
And the neon bulb in your power interrupter/connector thing (whatever that's called) also uses 0.2 watts (if your power meter is correct), which I guess is probably worth noting when measuring such low powers. Though 1.6 watts still not quite 1.2 watts...
I have 12V - 230V. How do I fix so I get real 230V ground?
I got a feeling in case of one failed LED you can bridge it with just another 100 Ohm resistor, if my crude estimation isn't far off.
Although, if the voltage drop of an LED is around 3V, then something like 147 Ohm would serve even better.
I put a 200 watt GE incandescent reading lamp in my old fridge. It was so bright I couldn't see. I've lost 20 lbs so far.
BobEckert56 5000 watt spotlight...
Hey Mr.Clive, what model heat gun/soldering iron station do you use? I''d like to start messing with electronics and it seems like a great bit of kit!
quick question, what is the AC power quick connect box call? i saw it in your other video and dont remember...
Quick test. I did a video about it if you search my videos for those words.
Wait How are you measuring the current on those LED's. I thought current had to be measured in series. Meaning you would need to cut one of the tracers and measure across ?
You know what, we just got one of those Beko refrigerators. When it arrived the light wasn't working, turned out it indeed was the switch. After some bumblefuckery I got it to work, reliably. Ours got the same LED-module.
I'm glad my fridge doesn't have this crap in it.
rogertopful honestly I would be fine with an incandescent bulb that costs $.50 so much waste producing a product like this.
rogertopful My fridge here in the US is a perfect 20 year old Kelvinator, the company that invented home refrigeration.
DigitalYojimbo they do it to nickel and dim people out of money, so they can save money through economy of scale and also because they can make you buy a new product from them. So in the end they make more money.
i dont keep crap in my fridge :P
Yeah, I have a 20 year old Kenmore side by side. It's still running as strong as ever and from what I can remember it hasn't needed a new bulb in quite a few years.
You measured voltage including a 100R resistor in series, 100R*0.025A is 2.5V, you measured 48V, so the voltage across the LEDs was actually around 45.5V.
Good point.
The drive to eliminate hazardous substances has had all sorts of unintended consequences. Here in the US and in Europe too, I imagine, zinc additives (technically, ZDDP) in engine oil have been steadily reduced and removed. While it is true that zinc poses a health hazard in an engine that, no matter how tight the tolerances, burns a little oil and sends a little through the catalytic converter. ZDDP, being a polar molecule, bonds quite well to catalytic converters and reduces their effectiveness. Breathing that stuff is not good for you at all, but the amounts are miniscule. Chances are that if your car is burning enough oil to make zinc contamination a problem, it will fail whatever emissions testing you have in your area. Large trucks tend to have looser requirements, but the result is the same.
The drawback though, is that the zinc no longer gets in the bearing surfaces and it no longer acts as a sacrificial component. Now, the expensive steel components in the engine are rubbing before the engine has good oil circulation and during periods of low oil flow. Yes, you're stopping a little bit of evil from coming out of the tailpipe, but you're shortening the life of very expensive engine components.
and what makes more smog, a modern car with a good running engine, or the giant excavator they use to dig up the aluminium ores to build a new engine?
It would make more sense to me if the 100k was in series with the Zenner forming a shunt regulator for the Leds?
I think the meter could show correct power usage. The difference between it and calculations might be dissipated through resistors.
The real reason for the change, you can get a screw in bulb at the hardware store for £1or so, maybe £2 -3 for the LED version, while the proprietary board needs to be purchased from the manufacturer, and even though it costs them £0.25 to make, they can charge £25 for it....
Damn, just ordered multiple spares for this exact part including new switch just incase and sods law I find this video…least I can have a fiddle about and maybe fix it while having some spares stocked for future
I suppose you could replace the LED with a small resistor if you were concerned about the excess current.
How much power does your quick-test consume? Did you take this into consideration?
Random weekend project: Disco LED fridge lamps (internet enabled). Bonus youtube points for abusing arduinos
Can't wait to see how they try to replace a tungsten bulb in an oven. The thermal cycling of a stove is just too much for an LED, but somehow I get the feeling if somebody figures out a way to stop using "good old fashioned bulbs" in there they'll do it.
6:05 I did not know about this. I replaced the incandescent lamps in my car with LEDs and at night time there is a very faint glow. I suppose this might be the reason. I will have to test the connection with my multimeter.
where can I purchase your mains connector box?
Question for anyone would ionizers around a game console help with keeping dust out of the console?
Not recommended near delicate electronics. Especially the USB ionisers.
I wonder if they switched to led to help get a A power rating or something, every little power saving helps.
LED light in my fridge died a week after the warranty ran out. Considering the amount of time it's actually on, I find that quick pathetic. I took the board out and noticed a burnt out resistor and capacitor which I replaced. It's still sitting on my desk 2 years later as it still doesn't work. A replacement costs about £15. :(
As fridges can easily be up to 100% relative humidity inside, it seems very likely that the board was failing due to condensation forming somewhere.
Try testing that module again after keeping it in the fridge for a while, perhaps is some fault related to temperature.
Also if a led has died, you can always solder on a new led. These white leds are super common on ebay
My guess would be that you fixed the dry joint when you soldered on the power leads. 👍
u need blu tack on your d esk has a handy hold me down for when measuring circuits with the metre
Where can I find that mains tester? That looks much safer than bare wires :)
How do you get such gloss photo prints. Do you have some high-end laser printer?
inkjet printer with CISS and cheap photo paper
Poetic justice would be for the bureaucrats who inflicted RoHS on us to meet gruesome ends because a critical electronic assembly in a car or aircraft in which they were riding suddenly quit due to a fractured solder joint.
Hi Clive. another brilliant video, thanks! Quick question: would it be possible to build a circuit to power a couple of meters of 32v led tape from a 5v usb power bank? some sort of booster circuit or something? Thanks, Phil.
You do get boosters, but 32V seems quite high. An alternative might be to use some of the newer 5V LED tape.
bigclivedotcom Thanks for taking the time to reply! I think the tape is a group of 10xleds in series, chained up in parallel. I'll take a look at the 5v versions. Thanks again!
Spray silicone (furniture polish) on the pins of the mains adapter and it should stop the squeak mate!