As a kid in the 70s, I got a hold of some red LEDs, which I thought would make nifty tail-lights for my slot-cars. I drilled out holes for them, and I did some very simple calculations with Ohm's Law, and soldered in a resistor to each LED, and wired them it to the power source in the cars. I can't believe how perfectly they worked, and lasted many years for the life of the cars.
As a kid I had a 14V train set, and I got a 12V train. I tried a few resistors and found the right value that would result in 12V max on that locomotive, so I could run it without risking damaging it. About 15 minutes later the resistor went poof. It was *just* too much for the quarter watt resistor. That's how I learned that components have limits & that you should adhere to them.
@@dascandyA difference of ~2V is usually never a problem, especially for something simple like a little motor. The electronics would have to be incredibly sensitive to have any problems. At worst the train would run a bit faster than the others.
+nrdesign1991 Like those active noise cancelling systems they use on subs? That would be pretty darn cool. I doubt it would work, but admittedly that's only because AFAIK no one's done it yet, and I don't know enough about it to prove or disprove it myself. Speaking of active noise cancelling, now wouldn't that be an interesting teardown? Not sure they sell them on Aliexpress though. Real ones, at least.
@@justinpatterson7700 I've been doing electronics professionally for nearly three decades, still produce the occasional cap incinerator in my circuits.. :p
For some reason I like the capacitor dropper concept, AC allows a lot of things to work that would never work with DC, then you get into radio frequency and it all chances again, I have worked with 2-way radios for 30 years and I still learn things everyday, as always love to watch your videos.
Thanks for showing us this Clive. My hat is doffed. You are a gift to the likes of me, who has always wanted to understand electronics, but never had the time or ability to pick this up from books. Your method of showing us works brilliantly. Thank you so much.
Love the "dark emitting diode" line. :) It's easy to see how much you love electronics watching videos like this, and also how much knowledge you have. I know it's a few years ago, but I still haven't managed to watch all your videos yet. I really enjoy the way you explain things in such a matter-of-fact way that is interesting to technically minded people, but also simple enough for non-technical people to understand.
I plugged a 3mm LED from a PC case into the 240V mains in my bedroom when I was little, and it was spectacular! White sparks shot across my bedroom with a loud muffled pop/puff sound. It was so loud and bright, my mum walked in and asked what happened. That's how I learned that just because an appliance plugs into mains power, doesn't mean it uses that mains power to run everything inside it
@bigclivedotcom I told her that the LED popped, but I left out the part about it being plugged it into mains as I didn't want to get yelled at. My logic at the time was: LED doesn't light up either way around with a good battery, and it came from a PC case which plugs into 240V, so maybe it's a 240V LED? So I stuck its 15cm wires into the power point, stood to the side and flicked the switch. I got such a fright though that I was shaking until I got to school that morning, and I still find it hard to trust anything that goes into mains - gradually trusting it again as I learn more Did you end up posting the electron theory video you mentioned at 20:59?
You putting an LED straight across the mains reminded me when i was around 11 y old,i put a 6v bulb across the mains,boy did that go bang,the glass exploded literally.But 49 years on and ive had a great career being an electronics engineer.Good vide Clive.
Petertronic 4 years ago, "Dear RI Christmas Lectures, please can you get Big Clive, it would be the best lecture ever!" "Winner, Winner, Chicken Dinner" Then Bob's yer Uncle fer sure! ... I really like that Idea, Honorary Big Clive on RI ... Yes, Brilliant!!!
the wires are connected, so if you rest you hand over the wire, some current will flow through the hand where it contacts the wire, however, the resistance of dry skin is far higher than the wire, so it's less of a risk.
Excellent video. I'm putting together a power supply as a winter project, using Chinese boost and buck converters plus a DPS 5015 adjustable control unit. Got the internals somewhat figured out so it was time for all the lights and switches on the outside. I figure if you build something like this may as well have lots of lights. Lights have been my thing since I was born. This video helped a lot and just about perfect timing. Thank you very much.
I’ve been watching you for some time now, and you do this better than anyone else. Your wry sense of humor makes a big difference. I can laugh on my way to understanding.
These informational videos are very much appreciated. I dropped out of general electronics in favor of modular computer work years ago, so a refresher was definitely in order.
You ever have one of those BELLS IN THE HEAD moments? Just had one where the bridge rectifier finally rang the bell and made complete sense. I always had problems seeing exactly how they worked even though I have made a few of them and they work great. Suddenly as you were explaining it, it all made sense. You make a great teacher, thanks much.
My test block arrived today and gave it a jolly good going over and I love it, should have bought one many years ago, to those thinking they are great but too expensive, do yourself a favour and just buy it you won't regret it after the first time you use it and it will outlast yourself.
My favorite approach is to use "capacitor dropper" method (as in your video) but with two LEDs in parallel and opposite directions. This allows current to flow in both directions and you can get rid of the bridge rectifier. The only drawback is that now you have to deal with more photons than you originally need but then again these are not photon torpedoes; it is OK. :)
Um, isn't that the same as using a single diode - half wave rectification?
8 лет назад
"Dark emitting diode" :'D It's small details like this that make this channel the best there is. Not fancy interviews, CADs and overly complex projects.
It's more of a "NEE-n", than just "neen". Two syllables, but with the second one very short. (Whereas I tend to pronounce it "NEE-ahn". That's how we say it in California.)
This single video has taught and inspired me to start experimenting and learning electronics even though I had no prior knowledge of electronics; I remember a few fundamental laws of electricity from high school 15 years back.
Yeah, they are really mega bright, my USB 3.0 hub has a ridiculously obnoxious blue power LED that casts a blue ring on my ceiling which is really annoying. I was thinking of cracking it open and dimming it or replacing it with something less powerful, but just went with your solution of covering it with black tape. It's still visible through that.
Blue LEDs are my pet peeve. Every goddamn thing from china has blue LEDs. I usually end up crushing them or replacing with red, green or orange. That blue color is so harsh for the eyes.
IMO it doesn't matter what color the LED is. If they're not using diffused LED's running at like 5ma, it's going to be pretty annoying to be in the same room with when you're trying to sleep or watch a movie. I use manila file folders. You can still see the LED light (and what color it is), but it diffuses the light so it won't cast shadows, and it knocks down the intensity to an acceptable level. So for your typical obnoxious blue LED it turns it from an intense blue point, to a much softer, dimmer blue glow. All it takes is some scotch tape, file folder, and a pair of scissors.
Just what I was wanting for XMAS. Need to replace an ancient AC 8v 30mA Radio lamp (backlighting the frequency board) with an orange LED or something else...just want to keep it looking aesthetically correct but technically updated. Thank you
You can easily run some LEDs on an 8V supply. You may even be able to get a 12V LED lamp in the same base that fits right in and glows bright enough on 8V to do the job.
Very nice demonstration of using LEDs on an AC application. Made up the 220K resistor and the 5 green LEDs (bridge rectifier and LED load). Works quite well with 115VAC 60hz and works perfectly on 115VAC 400hz Quite bright and steady. Much better than using the NEON bulb and 220K resistor that is a dull orange glow. Thank you so much for the information :)
I have an old AEG Auto Washing Machine and the Neon "ON" light has finally given up the ghost.... after 30 years! (The machine works fine....did drum bearings twice , over the years....... But....Works great: "Made In Germany"!) So this is the solution I am going for......220vac here..... I had a feeling LED's could be used with mains but until this I never quite figured it out........ Cheers!
The stability of neons depend to a large extent on how parallel the electrodes are inside the bulb. The more un parallel the electrodes, the more unstable is the discharge. Kinda ironic that the less care in manufacturing, the more unstable they are but the more flicker (candle like) they are. So Chinese ones are probably best!
Excellent. For conserving power on a water heater for showers, I used 2 LED nightlights as indicator lamps. Purchased from Dollar Tree, I took them apart and wired 1 to the mains on the water heater indicating when it is turned on, and the other is wired to the heating element indicating when it is heating. When the 1 LED on the heating element goes out, the water is sufficiently hot for a shower. After a shower, I turn the water heater off from the mains breaker, and a quick glance at the water heater shows it is off. No sense in the thing keeping water constantly hot if I do not use it. They pull a lot of power as you know. The LED's have an inline resistor and the diode across the LED as you show here.
Clive! You failed to put the neon directly across the line. That's often MUCH more exciting as the wire leads vaporize. Follow up video!! Perhaps for New Year's, we can find a 1uF/50v electrolytic in that same spot?
Great help thank you . I replaced a burnt out Neon in a mains adapter strip with the capacitive dropper and bridge. I used a 330k resistor which gave me 0.7ma for a blue LED and it was plenty bright enough as an indicator. Using the 1k one would have lit the room up at night lol. Thanks again.
What if you use one of those bicolor LEDs to eliminate flicker? Only issue is the color changes every half wave but it would likely blend together in a way that looks nicer than the standard on-off cycle.
I like the idea of a dark emitting diode. Switch on the power and it sucks up all the light. :) Very informative, as always. LED's must have changed over the years, I recall back in the late 70's accidentally plugging in an LED instead of a neon on a piece of equipment and getting quite a nasty burn when the thing exploded.
How do you tell the difference between the similarly coloured LEDs of differing technology just by looking at them (not powered)? Is it just from using them for such a long time?
Thanks for this video. I wish I had you as a teacher for my electronics classes. Perhaps I'd remember a bit more than I do, as your explanations are much clearer, than the dry descriptive theory we used to get. 🤷🏼♂️
Excellent video, as someone who doesn't know anything about these components I look forward to seeing your proposed video! I'd rather watch your videos then TV any day!
Thank you Clive for the video. I found it humorous that you should mention about the Neo. getting less bright but lasting longer. That indicates to me, that there is hope for me as I find myself getting less bright as I age, now 65, so maybe I'm destined to live to a very old age? Any thoughts? All the best to you and yours, Billy
Very good instructional video. Liked how you showed several variations of the LED across the mains. The capacitor example was quite interesting. Thanks!!
That was a very practical video. Thank you! So which is your preferred method for implementing a high side LED indicator, Clive? I'm guessing the capacitive dropper w/full wave rectifier.
Hi Clive, I absolutely love your videos. You have taught me so much, I hope you can get some time to do the video on electron theory as you mentioned here. You can explain stuff so well and i would love to hear you explain it all in a language that we all can so enjoy and learn from.
really looking forward to the beer-fueled electricity basics video. It's frustrating that I understand some bits of circuitry, largely due to this channel, but I don't really get any of the fundamentals.
Hi bigC, What would happen if you used the neon tube in series with the 120k ohm resistance, would the light emitting diode illuminant and the neon tube? would it stop the light dancing in the neon tube as it won't be alternating electricity since the light emitting diode will stop the electricity it does not pass like the + or the -. I could be very good at this stuff bigC, obviously, I wouldn't be able to actually do it, however, I would be able to talk like I could (talking is my strength my dad said.) that will so annoy the boys in my class. Anyway, I won’t be talking with you until after Christmas now, as I am finishing off making myself a dress for a party that my dad said I may go too. I didn’t think he would fall for the bit about the party being in the oap’s home. I will be in so much trouble when he finds out. Happy Christmas Big C. Sarah.
Hi Sarah, you could put an LED in series with a neon and resistor and they would both light. If a series diode was added they would both still light, but just one of the two electrodes in the neon lamp would glow.
Clive, please make that huge video you mentioned. To be honest, I have nearly no understanding of such things, yet I watch every video you release. I long to understand!
Clive to the rescue. I was trying to understand how the 24VAC digital inputs work on an old Carel pCO controller and with my rudimentary electronics knowledge I couldn't wrap my head around it. This video cleared it up for me. Basically the heart of it is an optocoupler, so practically an LED (on one side of the device anyhow). The rest on the input side of the coupler is what's in this video (they use the "one diode method" instead of a bridge rectifier, but the resistors and capacitors are there). Great content as always. 👍 *a fellow fridgie *
I ordered off from China for some of the nixie / neon bulbs that you showed in the first part of the video and they came in today. I had forgotten that you had put a resistor in series with it and gave it a try by just touching the leads to the open line voltage terminal blocks that I have on a test platform that I use for Arduino sensors and such. It definitely makes a nice arc -- it looked like I was arc welding. Figured that I had blown the bulb, so I looked at it under a 20x magnifying loope and it didn't look that bad, so I figured I would give it another try. Figured that if it arced again, it didn't burn up. I'm holding this bulb in a pair of forceps -- without any insulated handle. Yeah, maybe not that smart... Well, it stuck an arc again and my hand jerked back, it flew, and I then got to spend 15 minutes crawling around on a carpeted floor trying to find that little thing. And then I spend some time searching for this video again and see that I had forgotten about the resistor... Ooops...
Man oh man, I have to say.. You make soldering using only your 2 hands look so easy! It's just not fair at all !! I've recently been trying my hand at it, and it's not at all that simple holding everything still enough. Glad I found this particular vid as I've very recently been thinking how I'd like to put LEDs on a few (or maybe all) of my projects. I deal with a 110v supply, so it's especially fortunate that you've covered that. Thanks for All your vids tho, & keep taking them to bits, won't you! Cheers. J.S.
Im so glad I found your channel. You explained the full bridge rectifier perfectly. Thank you! I can now say i understand the concept thanks to you. Wow, really, I learned so much from this video.
Thank you BigClive one of the best (for me) videos I have seen about LEDs and resistors. Looking forward for your longer video. Maybe I can retain more.
If I was in the room during this video, I would be as far away as I can, since I have always seen the mains as something that would require big components and thick cables, without it burning up or arcing. So seeing this really amazes me.
Excellent video Clive, not only interesting to most, but lots of good teaching points too. You really should expand this idea to teach basic electronics in an 'as you go' with gratis visual tips for safety and soldering technique. Very well done..
Just love your vids. Only this evening I put a neon indicator on my off peak system to let me know when on or off. Then you have done a video and I now know I did the right thing!
Happy Christmas from Down Under! Thank you for another year of excellent (and in-missable) electronic entertainment (and education!) We are all looking forward to your "programme" for 2017!
Great video for those wanting to try this out. The part that made me lmao was the "Dark emitting diode"!! Priceless. The funny thing is if you put that up on ebay someone would buy it with sinister plans.
You can also do it with two resistors in series. Connect the LED across the smaller value resistor designed so that the voltage across this resistor never exceeds the reverse voltage limit of the LED.
Excellent demonstration. Capacitors would likely be more expensive than resistors, but I prefer them in AC circuits. An LED is designed to function between 20mA and 30mA and will present a fixed voltage drop, say 5 volts. A resistor of a given value will pass a given amount of current based on the voltage across it. (ohms law) This is fine if the voltage is stable, such as those likely to be found on a DC supply. Mains voltage can be a bit more variable. A cap of a given value, however, will pass a given amount of current based on the AC frequency without regard for the volt across it. The LED will drop its design voltage while the voltage drop across the cap will drop the rest of the voltage and fluctuate as needed. Using a bridge rectifier, as @bigclivedotcom demonstrated will still work. Even better, another cap parallel with the LED will smooth the pulsing DC and reduce the amount of flicker.
People tend to forget basic parts have fairly low breakdown voltages. The 250V for the resistor is one of the reasons I always spec in a string of at last three in any mains indicator or sensing circuit.
I can use the knowledge in this video to make a mains presence light with LEDs instead of neon! Thank you! Your channel is proving very helpful and entertaining!
Excellent video. side by side sketches and demos of different methods. I was wondering about the differences and which is best. Now I know. Thanks. Took a while to get used to and understand the accent of the commentary. I would like to see a video like this on building an indicator light for a low impedance pulsing fence charger.
Stick a couple diodes in series with the resistor to block the reverse flow. We are starting to install special switches now that tell you that the power is on on any phase in or out. So that people don't open machines or switches while they are energized. Good to see some of your older stuff. Great for my apprentices to see as well
2021.... and it's getting increasingly difficult to get neon indicator lamps. The bulbs still available, but the indicator housing with lamp, more difficult and expensive. And annoyingly, on Amazon, the many many vendors of indicator lamps that actually contain LEDs insist on including the keyword "Neon" in the title or description. That trend makes this video all the more valuable.
Thanks for an educational video, but ultimately I decided the quickest and easiest way to power an indicator LED for my 110VAC project was to modify a small wall converter I no longer use, which puts out a steady 5 VDC.
Thanks for this Clive, very nice videos. I have used LED/Diode/Resistor for years in gear I build. Saves a lot of time when hunting faults. Kind regards & greetings from Africa.
yes bigclive, do the video, as you got the skill to explain things in a way that, even a dumb finnish guy like me can understand them. Watching your vids got me interested to really learn more about the whole subject of electricity and electronics.
I love LED'S, especially the RGB LED'S. This video taught me a lot and covers part of what I've been wanting to learn. If you haven't already could you possibly make another video covering proper circuit design for high output LED's? I have some 1 watt white LED's and a few RGB LED's that are each rated for 3 - 9 watts all purchased from Adafruit. I'm more interested in using a DC power source for everything. Thank you for teaching me so much in your videos while be so entertaining at the same time.
21:26 I allready understood most of it before i started watching your videos. (I am 19 years old and ive been doing soldering for about 6+ years by now)
As a kid in the 70s, I got a hold of some red LEDs, which I thought would make nifty tail-lights for my slot-cars. I drilled out holes for them, and I did some very simple calculations with Ohm's Law, and soldered in a resistor to each LED, and wired them it to the power source in the cars. I can't believe how perfectly they worked, and lasted many years for the life of the cars.
Great story. That's how I learnt! But in college lol
As a kid I had a 14V train set, and I got a 12V train. I tried a few resistors and found the right value that would result in 12V max on that locomotive, so I could run it without risking damaging it.
About 15 minutes later the resistor went poof. It was *just* too much for the quarter watt resistor. That's how I learned that components have limits & that you should adhere to them.
@@dascandyA difference of ~2V is usually never a problem, especially for something simple like a little motor. The electronics would have to be incredibly sensitive to have any problems. At worst the train would run a bit faster than the others.
A dark emitting diode sounds cooler than it should.
That'll be interesting, a device emitting darkness? Maybe counter the incoming light with phase-shifted light waves?
anti photons
In it's working state, an LED is a 'dark sucker'.
+nrdesign1991 Like those active noise cancelling systems they use on subs? That would be pretty darn cool. I doubt it would work, but admittedly that's only because AFAIK no one's done it yet, and I don't know enough about it to prove or disprove it myself.
Speaking of active noise cancelling, now wouldn't that be an interesting teardown? Not sure they sell them on Aliexpress though. Real ones, at least.
It's like micro black hole._
You're the only one who stands a chance of teaching me basic electronics in a way that sticks. Please make that video!
Yes, please do!
Maybe the Tutorial Tuesday videos on my channel could be of some assistance? This is totally not self promotion in any way. ;)
Sign me up for the petition!
Same. Looking forward to seeing it.
ruclips.net/video/6Maq5IyHSuc/видео.html
Possibly the best description of a bridge rectifier i've heard.
I've been doing this for ages and this description finally made it click in my head what happens in a bridge
@@justinpatterson7700 I've been doing electronics professionally for nearly three decades, still produce the occasional cap incinerator in my circuits.. :p
Bloody hell Clive, watching your hands around those live contacts, I'm a know you know what you are doing, but it still made my bottom pucker.
You can bet he’s been shocked over the years. That’s why he is so careful. Us HVAC techs are the same. You’ll learn to be careful the older you get.
This is likely the single most useful video to ever grace RUclips with it's presence.
I completely agree
In my opinion that was one of your best videos clive! Very informative and entertaining. You're like the bob ross of electronics with your calm voice.
Perfect analogy
Seems like that said in every video. Never really watch Bob Ross too boring for me.
@Gummel Man, i thought there's a hair on my screen where your profil picture is.^^
For some reason I like the capacitor dropper concept, AC allows a lot of things to work that would never work with DC, then you get into radio frequency and it all chances again, I have worked with 2-way radios for 30 years and I still learn things everyday, as always love to watch your videos.
I was hoping for a SED: Smoke emitting diode.
Or the famous NED "Noise Emitting Diode" - which only works once
@@mauricewalshe8339 flame emitting diodes are better 😁
Diy you mean "Shmoke emitting diode"?
Yes But it is a DED, dark emitting Diode.
Thanks for showing us this Clive. My hat is doffed. You are a gift to the likes of me, who has always wanted to understand electronics, but never had the time or ability to pick this up from books. Your method of showing us works brilliantly. Thank you so much.
My self converted tungsten to LED Christmas lights are still working Clive. Thanks for that video almost a year ago
I have been working in the electrical/electronics for over 63 years and your videos are the best in all detailes m
Love the "dark emitting diode" line. :)
It's easy to see how much you love electronics watching videos like this, and also how much knowledge you have.
I know it's a few years ago, but I still haven't managed to watch all your videos yet.
I really enjoy the way you explain things in such a matter-of-fact way that is interesting to technically minded people, but also simple enough for non-technical people to understand.
I plugged a 3mm LED from a PC case into the 240V mains in my bedroom when I was little, and it was spectacular! White sparks shot across my bedroom with a loud muffled pop/puff sound. It was so loud and bright, my mum walked in and asked what happened. That's how I learned that just because an appliance plugs into mains power, doesn't mean it uses that mains power to run everything inside it
Did you tell her? And what did she say?
@bigclivedotcom I told her that the LED popped, but I left out the part about it being plugged it into mains as I didn't want to get yelled at.
My logic at the time was: LED doesn't light up either way around with a good battery, and it came from a PC case which plugs into 240V, so maybe it's a 240V LED? So I stuck its 15cm wires into the power point, stood to the side and flicked the switch.
I got such a fright though that I was shaking until I got to school that morning, and I still find it hard to trust anything that goes into mains - gradually trusting it again as I learn more
Did you end up posting the electron theory video you mentioned at 20:59?
Love how big Clive is always admitting to his errors. And I love the little Math tutorials he embeds in the show.
That is very very helpful
You putting an LED straight across the mains reminded me when i was around 11 y old,i put a 6v bulb across the mains,boy did that go bang,the glass exploded literally.But 49 years on and ive had a great career being an electronics engineer.Good vide Clive.
Dear RI Christmas Lectures, please can you get Big Clive, it would be the best lecture ever!
Petertronic 4 years ago, "Dear RI Christmas Lectures, please can you get Big Clive, it would be the best lecture ever!"
"Winner, Winner, Chicken Dinner" Then Bob's yer Uncle fer sure! ... I really like that Idea, Honorary Big Clive on RI ... Yes, Brilliant!!!
@@junkmail4613 Indeed!
Yes perfect ! I would love to watch Clive on ri Christmas lecture
I always get a bit nervous seeing your hand 1cm away from a live wire :D
he's not grounded. he mention's that in a lot of vidoes. i assume hes not grounded in this video either. correct me if i am wrong.
exactly, the worst case is he'll get severe burns on his hands if they make contact to the wires.
SuperPickle15 but he'd have to touch both wires at the same time for that. you wouldn't burn your hand when no current flows through it.
the wires are connected, so if you rest you hand over the wire, some current will flow through the hand where it contacts the wire, however, the resistance of dry skin is far higher than the wire, so it's less of a risk.
SuperPickle15 why exactly would it flow through your hand? it wont flow through if you are not grounded.
I like the burns and stains on your workbench. There's a lot of RUclips history there. :-D
And the burns and stains on his hands. I'm sure I still see a faint cock and balls outline on the back of his hand...
hehe, the awkward tattooing machine incident... :P
Excellent video. I'm putting together a power supply as a winter project, using Chinese boost and buck converters plus a DPS 5015 adjustable control unit. Got the internals somewhat figured out so it was time for all the lights and switches on the outside. I figure if you build something like this may as well have lots of lights. Lights have been my thing since I was born. This video helped a lot and just about perfect timing. Thank you very much.
I'd enjoy seeing him solder together one of those matrix of LED cubes. I could watch that soldering technique for quite a while.
I’ve been watching you for some time now, and you do this better than anyone else. Your wry sense of humor makes a big difference. I can laugh on my way to understanding.
Looking forward to the electronics video - I remember most of your 'basics' one from a while back
These informational videos are very much appreciated. I dropped out of general electronics in favor of modular computer work years ago, so a refresher was definitely in order.
Your videos are super comfy.
ikr
Bob Builder I like to put on my giant rain jacket and watch them as if I was there looking at Clive making things
You ever have one of those BELLS IN THE HEAD moments? Just had one where the bridge rectifier finally rang the bell and made complete sense. I always had problems seeing exactly how they worked even though I have made a few of them and they work great. Suddenly as you were explaining it, it all made sense. You make a great teacher, thanks much.
Merry Christmas!
Looking forward to that electron theory, always makes me confused when you realise electrons flow the opposite way to current.
I must have come back to this video at least 30 times in the last six months, it never gets old
Super knowledge-rich episode! Thanks, Clive!
Dark-Emitting Diodes, for areas that are a bit too bright.
My test block arrived today and gave it a jolly good going over and I love it, should have bought one many years ago, to those thinking they are great but too expensive, do yourself a favour and just buy it you won't regret it after the first time you use it and it will outlast yourself.
My favorite approach is to use "capacitor dropper" method (as in your video) but with two LEDs in parallel and opposite directions. This allows current to flow in both directions and you can get rid of the bridge rectifier.
The only drawback is that now you have to deal with more photons than you originally need but then again these are not photon torpedoes; it is OK. :)
Um, isn't that the same as using a single diode - half wave rectification?
"Dark emitting diode" :'D
It's small details like this that make this channel the best there is. Not fancy interviews, CADs and overly complex projects.
I keep hearing Clive say "neen" instead of "neon." LOL
It's more of a "NEE-n", than just "neen". Two syllables, but with the second one very short. (Whereas I tend to pronounce it "NEE-ahn". That's how we say it in California.)
Ha, I had to read the comments just to find out what a "neen" was.
I kept hearing "Noom", read the description and kept asking "WTF are you using man!!"
Neon argon
Neen argen
@@carpenter940x same here 😅
One of my favorite Big Clive Videos. I find this relaxing... and cheaper than therapy.
I like this - The Big Clive Christmas Lecture.
+1 for "quite violent" and "visual dots in your eyes for quite a while". Big Clive you make even the most dry material quite entertaining.
Dude you should be in some kind of soldering tournament your skills are amazing!
no they are not. pretty standard work for someone who is soldering for decades :D8
oh
@@rodmongodwood youre just cheerful arent ya
This single video has taught and inspired me to start experimenting and learning electronics even though I had no prior knowledge of electronics; I remember a few fundamental laws of electricity from high school 15 years back.
It's really annoying when the really bright blue LEDs are used as indicators. i usually end up covering them with black insulation tape
Yeah, they are really mega bright, my USB 3.0 hub has a ridiculously obnoxious blue power LED that casts a blue ring on my ceiling which is really annoying. I was thinking of cracking it open and dimming it or replacing it with something less powerful, but just went with your solution of covering it with black tape. It's still visible through that.
Ano Neko A couple layers of white vinyl tape dims and diffuses those LEDs nicely
Blue LEDs are my pet peeve. Every goddamn thing from china has blue LEDs. I usually end up crushing them or replacing with red, green or orange. That blue color is so harsh for the eyes.
My computer case had a blue led for the hdd indicator... It was so bright, it lit up my room... FInally replaced it with a green one, so much better
IMO it doesn't matter what color the LED is. If they're not using diffused LED's running at like 5ma, it's going to be pretty annoying to be in the same room with when you're trying to sleep or watch a movie.
I use manila file folders. You can still see the LED light (and what color it is), but it diffuses the light so it won't cast shadows, and it knocks down the intensity to an acceptable level.
So for your typical obnoxious blue LED it turns it from an intense blue point, to a much softer, dimmer blue glow.
All it takes is some scotch tape, file folder, and a pair of scissors.
Five years after posting, this video turns up on my recommended just when I'm looking at a solution to this sort of problem! Bravo algo!
Worked like a champ, too! Salvaged X2 cap and a little protoboard; one power indicator light for a 240 V slayer exciter variant sorted. Cheers, fella!
Just what I was wanting for XMAS. Need to replace an ancient AC 8v 30mA Radio lamp (backlighting the frequency board) with an orange LED or something else...just want to keep it looking aesthetically correct but technically updated. Thank you
You can easily run some LEDs on an 8V supply. You may even be able to get a 12V LED lamp in the same base that fits right in and glows bright enough on 8V to do the job.
Very nice demonstration of using LEDs on an AC application. Made up the 220K resistor and the 5 green LEDs (bridge rectifier and LED load). Works quite well with 115VAC 60hz and works perfectly on 115VAC 400hz Quite bright and steady. Much better than using the NEON bulb and 220K resistor that is a dull orange glow. Thank you so much for the information :)
I have an old AEG Auto Washing Machine and the Neon "ON" light has finally given up the ghost.... after 30 years!
(The machine works fine....did drum bearings twice , over the years....... But....Works great: "Made In Germany"!)
So this is the solution I am going for......220vac here..... I had a feeling LED's could be used with mains but until this I never quite figured it out........ Cheers!
The stability of neons depend to a large extent on how parallel the electrodes are inside the bulb. The more un parallel the electrodes, the more unstable is the discharge. Kinda ironic that the less care in manufacturing, the more unstable they are but the more flicker (candle like) they are. So Chinese ones are probably best!
Excellent. For conserving power on a water heater for showers, I used 2 LED nightlights as indicator lamps. Purchased from Dollar Tree, I took them apart and wired 1 to the mains on the water heater indicating when it is turned on, and the other is wired to the heating element indicating when it is heating. When the 1 LED on the heating element goes out, the water is sufficiently hot for a shower. After a shower, I turn the water heater off from the mains breaker, and a quick glance at the water heater shows it is off. No sense in the thing keeping water constantly hot if I do not use it. They pull a lot of power as you know. The LED's have an inline resistor and the diode across the LED as you show here.
Clive! You failed to put the neon directly across the line. That's often MUCH more exciting as the wire leads vaporize. Follow up video!! Perhaps for New Year's, we can find a 1uF/50v electrolytic in that same spot?
Great help thank you . I replaced a burnt out Neon in a mains adapter strip with the capacitive dropper and bridge. I used a 330k resistor which gave me 0.7ma for a blue LED and it was plenty bright enough as an indicator. Using the 1k one would have lit the room up at night lol. Thanks again.
What if you use one of those bicolor LEDs to eliminate flicker? Only issue is the color changes every half wave but it would likely blend together in a way that looks nicer than the standard on-off cycle.
or induce seizures lol
@@slymind4919 Won't induce seizures at 50/60Hz. LED lights flicker at that speed, aim a camera at a mains power one.
He did this in a previous video
I think the bicolour LEDs have one lead in common so they cannot be used this way
I like the idea of a dark emitting diode. Switch on the power and it sucks up all the light. :) Very informative, as always. LED's must have changed over the years, I recall back in the late 70's accidentally plugging in an LED instead of a neon on a piece of equipment and getting quite a nasty burn when the thing exploded.
How do you tell the difference between the similarly coloured LEDs of differing technology just by looking at them (not powered)? Is it just from using them for such a long time?
Possibly color of the plastic, the older ones appear to be darker colored, but I could be wrong
They do have a slightly more conical shape. But for safety be aware of where you buy the LEDs from as they should tell you.
Thanks for this video. I wish I had you as a teacher for my electronics classes. Perhaps I'd remember a bit more than I do, as your explanations are much clearer, than the dry descriptive theory we used to get. 🤷🏼♂️
Well now I know where dark energy is coming from. The universe is filled with all the old blown LEDs thrown away from parallel dimensions.
Excellent video, as someone who doesn't know anything about these components I look forward to seeing your proposed video! I'd rather watch your videos then TV any day!
Thank you Clive for the video. I found it humorous that you should mention about the Neo. getting less bright but lasting longer. That indicates to me, that there is hope for me as I find myself getting less bright as I age, now 65, so maybe I'm destined to live to a very old age? Any thoughts? All the best to you and yours, Billy
You too, huh? That makes me feel better already.
Very good instructional video. Liked how you showed several variations of the LED across the mains. The capacitor example was quite interesting. Thanks!!
That was a very practical video. Thank you! So which is your preferred method for implementing a high side LED indicator, Clive? I'm guessing the capacitive dropper w/full wave rectifier.
Hi Clive, I absolutely love your videos. You have taught me so much, I hope you can get some time to do the video on electron theory as you mentioned here. You can explain stuff so well and i would love to hear you explain it all in a language that we all can so enjoy and learn from.
really looking forward to the beer-fueled electricity basics video. It's frustrating that I understand some bits of circuitry, largely due to this channel, but I don't really get any of the fundamentals.
Really enjoyed that Clive. I'm a fan of the longer format video you do. The electron theory video sounds like one to look forward to. Love ya work.
Hi bigC,
What would happen if you used the neon tube in series with the 120k ohm resistance, would the light emitting diode illuminant and the neon tube? would it stop the light dancing in the neon tube as it won't be alternating electricity since the light emitting diode will stop the electricity it does not pass like the + or the -.
I could be very good at this stuff bigC, obviously, I wouldn't be able to actually do it, however, I would be able to talk like I could (talking is my strength my dad said.) that will so annoy the boys in my class.
Anyway, I won’t be talking with you until after Christmas now, as I am finishing off making myself a dress for a party that my dad said I may go too. I didn’t think he would fall for the bit about the party being in the oap’s home. I will be in so much trouble when he finds out.
Happy Christmas Big C.
Sarah.
Hi Sarah, you could put an LED in series with a neon and resistor and they would both light. If a series diode was added they would both still light, but just one of the two electrodes in the neon lamp would glow.
What a sweet little girl Sarah is. I bet she is a live wire at school! .
Sarah Clark if I were a boy in your class, I wouldn't be angry; I'd be impressed. I'd want to be friends.
Clive, please make that huge video you mentioned. To be honest, I have nearly no understanding of such things, yet I watch every video you release. I long to understand!
a rectifier and capacitor over the led is the best
Clive to the rescue.
I was trying to understand how the 24VAC digital inputs work on an old Carel pCO controller and with my rudimentary electronics knowledge I couldn't wrap my head around it. This video cleared it up for me.
Basically the heart of it is an optocoupler, so practically an LED (on one side of the device anyhow). The rest on the input side of the coupler is what's in this video (they use the "one diode method" instead of a bridge rectifier, but the resistors and capacitors are there).
Great content as always. 👍
*a fellow fridgie *
Where did you get the Chinese LED tester?
John Robinson £2 to £3 on eBay but don't that any notice of the marked currents.
uk ebay www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mini-Portable-LED-Tester-Battery-Operated-2-to-150mA-/290935206840?hash=item43bd16f3b8:g:OeEAAMXQL99SblNb £1.50 - £6
John Robinson I got one just like it off Amazon.
I ordered off from China for some of the nixie / neon bulbs that you showed in the first part of the video and they came in today. I had forgotten that you had put a resistor in series with it and gave it a try by just touching the leads to the open line voltage terminal blocks that I have on a test platform that I use for Arduino sensors and such. It definitely makes a nice arc -- it looked like I was arc welding. Figured that I had blown the bulb, so I looked at it under a 20x magnifying loope and it didn't look that bad, so I figured I would give it another try. Figured that if it arced again, it didn't burn up. I'm holding this bulb in a pair of forceps -- without any insulated handle. Yeah, maybe not that smart... Well, it stuck an arc again and my hand jerked back, it flew, and I then got to spend 15 minutes crawling around on a carpeted floor trying to find that little thing.
And then I spend some time searching for this video again and see that I had forgotten about the resistor... Ooops...
Oh have a smashing christmas clive :-D
Man oh man, I have to say..
You make soldering using only your 2 hands look so easy! It's just not fair at all !! I've recently been trying my hand at it, and it's not at all that simple holding everything still enough. Glad I found this particular vid as I've very recently been thinking how I'd like to put LEDs on a few (or maybe all) of my projects. I deal with a 110v supply, so it's especially fortunate that you've covered that.
Thanks for All your vids tho, & keep taking them to bits, won't you! Cheers. J.S.
Soldering skills get better with practice.
how do you know what type the led is
' gallium etc
Presumably from the Supplier when you order it?
watching this with auto generated subtitles is so great because every time clive says "neon" it comes up with a different word
haha now its a DED - dark emitting diode
Im so glad I found your channel. You explained the full bridge rectifier perfectly. Thank you! I can now say i understand the concept thanks to you. Wow, really, I learned so much from this video.
we should add a wiki article about the founder of the DED. Or should we say DEaD? :-D
It's not me though. The term DED has been around for a while.
bigclivedotcom - I prefer SEDs (Smoke Emitting Diode) and LERs (Light Emitting Resistor)
Thank you BigClive one of the best (for me) videos I have seen about LEDs and resistors. Looking forward for your longer video. Maybe I can retain more.
Dark emitting diode... When you notice that the abbreviation for that is literally DED
If I was in the room during this video, I would be as far away as I can, since I have always seen the mains as something that would require big components and thick cables, without it burning up or arcing. So seeing this really amazes me.
Excellent video Clive, not only interesting to most, but lots of good teaching points too. You really should expand this idea to teach basic electronics in an 'as you go' with gratis visual tips for safety and soldering technique. Very well done..
Thank you for going through all of these different possibilities Big Clive.👍
Just love your vids. Only this evening I put a neon indicator on my off peak system to let me know when on or off. Then you have done a video and I now know I did the right thing!
I find that putting a neon across the mains is a lot more spectacular than an LED.
Happy Christmas from Down Under! Thank you for another year of excellent (and in-missable) electronic entertainment (and education!) We are all looking forward to your "programme" for 2017!
Great video for those wanting to try this out. The part that made me lmao was the "Dark emitting diode"!! Priceless. The funny thing is if you put that up on ebay someone would buy it with sinister plans.
You can also do it with two resistors in series. Connect the LED across the smaller value resistor designed so that the voltage across this resistor never exceeds the reverse voltage limit of the LED.
Excellent demonstration.
Capacitors would likely be more expensive than resistors, but I prefer them in AC circuits.
An LED is designed to function between 20mA and 30mA and will present a fixed voltage drop, say 5 volts.
A resistor of a given value will pass a given amount of current based on the voltage across it. (ohms law) This is fine if the voltage is stable, such as those likely to be found on a DC supply. Mains voltage can be a bit more variable.
A cap of a given value, however, will pass a given amount of current based on the AC frequency without regard for the volt across it. The LED will drop its design voltage while the voltage drop across the cap will drop the rest of the voltage and fluctuate as needed.
Using a bridge rectifier, as @bigclivedotcom demonstrated will still work. Even better, another cap parallel with the LED will smooth the pulsing DC and reduce the amount of flicker.
A really informative, practical video Clive! Loved it.
Helps us plebs understand more when it comes to some of the more complex videos.
It is video's like this that make your channel so special!
People tend to forget basic parts have fairly low breakdown voltages. The 250V for the resistor is one of the reasons I always spec in a string of at last three in any mains indicator or sensing circuit.
A voltage divider (resistor ladder) is another great approach that intrinsically limits short circuit current and resistor heat dissipation.
I can use the knowledge in this video to make a mains presence light with LEDs instead of neon! Thank you! Your channel is proving very helpful and entertaining!
Excellent video. side by side sketches and demos of different methods. I was wondering about the differences and which is best. Now I know. Thanks.
Took a while to get used to and understand the accent of the commentary.
I would like to see a video like this on building an indicator light for a low impedance pulsing fence charger.
Stick a couple diodes in series with the resistor to block the reverse flow. We are starting to install special switches now that tell you that the power is on on any phase in or out. So that people don't open machines or switches while they are energized. Good to see some of your older stuff. Great for my apprentices to see as well
2021.... and it's getting increasingly difficult to get neon indicator lamps. The bulbs still available, but the indicator housing with lamp, more difficult and expensive. And annoyingly, on Amazon, the many many vendors of indicator lamps that actually contain LEDs insist on including the keyword "Neon" in the title or description. That trend makes this video all the more valuable.
Thanks for an educational video, but ultimately I decided the quickest and easiest way to power an indicator LED for my 110VAC project was to modify a small wall converter I no longer use, which puts out a steady 5 VDC.
Indescribably useful, Big Clive! Your videos genuinely promote understanding.
Thanks for this Clive, very nice videos. I have used LED/Diode/Resistor for years in gear I build. Saves a lot of time when hunting faults. Kind regards & greetings from Africa.
I now understand what a bridge rectifier is (how it works). Thank you for the simple explanation!
A useful topic explained and demonstrated to perfection, it does not get any better 👌👌👌
We love your videos so please allow more clearance between yourself and the national grid!
thank you for your continual educational content Clive. You are a great RUclipsr and I truly appreciate your videos.
yes bigclive, do the video, as you got the skill to explain things in a way that, even a dumb finnish guy like me can understand them. Watching your vids got me interested to really learn more about the whole subject of electricity and electronics.
I love LED'S, especially the RGB LED'S. This video taught me a lot and covers part of what I've been wanting to learn. If you haven't already could you possibly make another video covering proper circuit design for high output LED's? I have some 1 watt white LED's and a few RGB LED's that are each rated for 3 - 9 watts all purchased from Adafruit. I'm more interested in using a DC power source for everything. Thank you for teaching me so much in your videos while be so entertaining at the same time.
21:26 I allready understood most of it before i started watching your videos. (I am 19 years old and ive been doing soldering for about 6+ years by now)