This will do nicely for my computer desk fan setup. The always on during a fault issue will actually be a plus in that usage and any other case when used to cool vital components.
I used one of these to fix an expensive portable fridge that was going to cost me hundreds of dollars to repair the board. Fortunately the compressor still ran continually with emergency bypass. I just tapped into the power cable with an automotive relay. Works perfectly. Has no lower power disconnect though. I reckon the Chinese might have one of those modules for a couple of bucks. Thanks for this video it helped me a lot.
I had a lot of fun with this item! So glad you made this video as my fridge is 20+ years old and I fear one day I would awaken to a puddle in the floor from the unit dying overnight. I ordered four of these, 4 12v wall warts, 4 female power jacks, and 4 intermittent sounders. Wired the sounder in to the relay, drilled a hole for the power jack, drilled 6 holes for the sound to escape, put the sounder inside, tight fit but it worked, super glued a magnet to the base, stuck it to the side of the fridge, set it up to monitor the freezer temperature! I used one as a proof of concept, one as a prototype and gave the other two to my brothers. I used the prototype for my personal one and threw the proof of concept one in the junk drawer for future experiments. Only problem was waiting weeks for the components to arrive from China!
buy the thermostat version for 110-220v and its easy (3 wires) replacement for your fridge thermostat. if the fridge dies its either thermostat or the varistor disc thats on the rear of the compressor. both are janky old crap. best fix them both with modern controls instead of waiting for them to fail
I got the same thing, only in 220V, so yes, it can be made in different voltages. On the back it says 12V 110V 220V where mine is marked. Great educational video.
Vinyl wrap it in pink, get a big enough frame and add some lights! It'd make for a pretty cool video IMHO. After that, restore it to its original condition and hang it pretty in your home, as a reminder to yourself of how someone (you) from the Isle of Man can make such a big impact on the lives of so many people around the world!
I just purchased one of these for controlling a home made solar powered roof (attic) fan setup and came across your very useful demo on how to set it up and adjust it, many thanks. Tomorrows and the following two days peak temp is 40+C so the roof extractor should continuously operation if this has been correctly followed i.e. Well into the red zone NSW in Oz
Picked this up to add a couple old PC fans to my hen house. When it gets too warm in there a couple fans will start circulating air and turn on a light as a warning. Very simple and nice. Thanks for the video.
Hello Sir, I don't know what I have been doing wrong, mine reads 12v 110v 220v but I keep on short-circuiting them. Kindly assist me out on how to regulate the amount of power needed. Thank you
I bought a 120v sous-vide temp control module for my vodka/brewing setup (it controls the heat mats I use to warm the fermenters) and it's been one of my best e-bay purchases yet. Very reliable and quite versatile for brewing with 0.1 deg precision and all sorts of alarm conditions and stuff I don't even need. It was around $25 CAD and a comparable unit here was something crazy like $125 or higher. When they care to, Chinese factories can turn out some very well-engineered stuff for not a lot of money.
The difference between set point and reset point is normally called "deadband". Hysteresis is usually used to define the difference between in a continuous output when the signal is rising or falling.
I reckon the "on when thermistor shorted" feature/weakness is actually intentional design and not an oversight. Consider how you could use a switch to override the controller by placing it in parallel with the thermistor. The advantage of this over having an external bypass switch, is that the controller will indicate an override is active on its display. Also, the switch doesn't have to be capable of switching the 'high' current passing through the load. I suspect the load on/off state for a short and open circuit thermistor will reverse if you set it to "cooling mode".
This controller was used on our incubator. It started to overheat and this was just the solution. Thank you. I hope the quail eggs will be alright from. The moment it overheated...
Thanks Clive. I bought one on E Bay and there were no instructions. I couldn't work out how to set it using trial and error. Your video saved the day. I've used it with my slow cooker to do some sous vide cooking. (These are available to control a 250 volt supply.)
Thank you so much. I have a 220V AC version of the exact same device. Using what I could see in your video I modded mine to run on 12V DC. Works like a charm.
cheers clive. i got one on aliexpress for a quid fifty but no instructions. yesterday my 7 month old fridge died because of the thermostat. i now have installed this gadget and have a digital fridge! i also removed the motor start varistor and built a circuit with a capacitor and 2 relays to give the start winding a fraction second pulse when needed. where i live there are lots of powerline issues where the power can drop for just long enough for a motor to stop but not long enough for a varistor to cool off, leaving the compressor to cook until the overtemp cutout trips. i recommend both these mods to anyone capable. it also cures the problem with keeping a deep freeze in the garage in the cold then having it self defrost on a cold day and ruin your food. in my case i still had 2 year guarantee but taking it back to the shop would cost in petrol 4x the price of this thermostat i had on the shelf. i get really pissed off as an electronics engineer when i see the jenky way cars and domestic appliances are wired just to save a penny per unit.
Thank you for your video. I'm installing underfloor heating and was sold programmable WiFi touch screen room thermostats and floor temperature probes for every room and actuators for every circuit. However, I had my doubts that this made sense. I'm doing it as part of my conversion to a heat pump and the heat pump hates being zoned off. Big zones with high volume are what keeps heat pumps ticking over gently and efficiently rather than cycling on and off inefficiently. After a discussion with my installer that confirmed my suspicions, I returned all the thermostats, probes and actuators. They're not needed. In fact, they would lower my system efficiency substantially! What I really want is simple thermostatic protection to turn off the heating if the wooden flooring reaches 38C above which it can start cracking. Ot should never happen as the calculated temperature of my underfloor heating flow is just 32C in the coldest of British winters. It looks like the W3001 is exactly what I need as a sentinel, since the whole heating system works at mains voltage. They can be fitted in every room with wooden flooring, all be wired in series, so that if any of them goes over temperature the circuit opens and the call for heat from the heat pump is shut off. Not beating about the bush - the solution is about 2% of the cost of what was sold to me! I'll fit 2 probes under every floor so that in the unlikely event that one fails then it's simply a matter of connecting the other probe instead, not lifting the floor! Set and forget is so much more simple and straightforward than needing to programme an expensive thermostat in every room. I've also bought a load of W1209 controls that are 12V only, unboxed PCBs providing essentially the same functionality. I implemented one on my boat years ago to toggle the 12V circulating pump on the back boiler of my solid fuel stove, so that it only runs when needed. It has never missed a beat and goodness knows how much battery power it has conserved. I decided that whilst I'm commissioning my underfloor heating, I would like to measure the return temperature of each of the circuits, so that I can equalise them irrespective of their relative lengths by adjusting the flow control valves accordingly. The W1209s cost 68p plus VAT each from AliExpress. After I'm all set up, this will also be set and forget, I can use them for something else. Maybe an experiment to establish the perfect compost temperature for incubating my tomato seedlings? At this price you can have so much fun at such little cost.
THANK YOU MUCHLY FOR THIS VIDEO, as my purchase came without instructions...You have made things very clear, and make the wiring job a sinch. Using this gizmo to trigger exhaust fans on my liesure battery bank underneath the passenger double seat of our Sprinter Campervan. Thanks again. :)
I purchased one to fix a 1500W heater. One version is given for 220V 10A. Must say that for 3.35€ including shipping, it is rather competitive! Just installed it and works well. No clue about long term reliability. But for this price...Thanks for the clear video explaining how to set "heating"/"cooling mode" which is not straightforward on the website. Hope the coronavirus was not in the parcel :-)
I bought 3 of these. Installed one on my RV, over the range fan. Seems the small brains can’t remember to turn on the fan when cooking. This is great in that it now turns it on automatically when it detects heat.
I suppose when theres a fault or disconnection of the temperature probe its pretty much 50/50 whether it would be preferable for it to default to on or off depending on the application, especially since it can be used in both directions. like you say you need an extra failsafe mechanism. but the thing is probably intended to a just a part of a wider control system so thats fair enough
I've found most of these controls work fine (for hobby use only of course) but it never drive more than an amp or so directly. It's always a good idea to drive and nice name brand relay.
I built myself a refrigerator using a 100W peltier plate and I'm powering it with the +12V rail of a ATX PSU. The current issue I have is it just runs as cold as the room will let it get. Which is causing large amounts of ice to build up on the heatsink inside the unit which is causing cooling effectiveness issues. Not to mention the ice buildup is stopping the fan from circulating the cold air inside the unit. This seems like the perfect "legos for adults" component to regulate the internal temperature more effectively if it can run off +12V and deliver up to 100W.
I bought one for 220V/1500W and it principally works the same, though it is not as intuitive to use as the one you are demonstrating, it does not flash when the settings are ready to be changed. Does the job, heats up a silicon heating pad within the range. My only comment would be the in/out wiring which seems to be rather flimsy for such high voltages and wattage, the heating pad is 750W and there are 2 of them, seems to work fine. Thanks for helping with figuring out how to set the controller, difficult when it comes with no instructions.
The microcontroller is an STM8003F3 series with 8KB of flash memory. If you have an ST-Link V2 programmer and can access the programming pin (pin 18), you could reprogram it with some custom firmware to fix the output staying on when the sensor gets disconnected.
Aww damn, wish I knew these things existed when I built my new computer, a bunch of those with the thermistors gooped onto the various heat syncs would be great fan controls
Would love to see a comparison and your general take on what is practically the default option for temperature control in home brewing; the STC-1000. It's only around £8 on ebay and almost everyone that builds a fermentation chamber or kegerator seems to be using it.
hey, im trying to use this to switch a heat cartridge, i have the 12v 120w model. So what i did is, i hooked up a Lipo 3 cell 12v battery to the input, and a 12v 40 watt 3d printer heat cartridge on the output, i set it up just like he did in the video to heat, but even when the output light is on, the heat cartridge does not heat up, anyone has an idea what could be wrong ? is it the lipo ? only thing i could imagine being the problem is the heat cartridge being broken :/ please help :(
An even-cheaper version of the DIN modular thermostat packages from Willhay Electronics. Mind you theirs were 240V rated, with everything programmable, alarm contacts, o/p changeover contacts, etc for a rather measly $20 AU! If you don't need sophistication, this would be great - idea as a fridge thermostat, or fishtank heater stat. That PCB has a lot of space and markings for added components, so its probable that there is a 240V version out there. Well worth looking for, and I'll be buying a few to play with. Thanks Clive!
It would be interesting to know if that unused 4 way connector under the chip is the SWIM programming port for flashing the firmware onto it in the first place. If it is one pin should to pin 18 (data) and the other to pin 4 (reset) of the chip and the other two being power.
Mine shows 1,5 degrees more than it actually is, but I can't seem to find a way to calibrate it... I have it for 1 year now in my incubator and im setting it to 39 degrees (Celsius) to actually get the 37.5 that I need). Big negative for this device the absence of calibration option.
How can you stand temperatures _that_ cold? Anything under 26c feels like freezing for me.! I can't wait for the Summer to come back, God I miss it so much right now you have no idea
I usually have it at about 15C. 12C at night. I only crank it up to 20C if I have visitors. I'm also a Scot. I guess it depends on the type of climate you're used to. Also the cost of energy where you are. 26C would have me panting on the floor!
+dalriada842 I'd melt at 26. I'm comfy at 15 (if I'm just sitting), less if I 'm doing something. But I'm a Scot Canadian. I imagine CoolDude is from somewhere a bit hotter. It is funny watching new immigrants from Africa coming here and putting parkas on when it's 20 out ;)
Thanks indeed for your insight Clive. I had to find a circuit diagramme for the same item that I have just received. As always you are very helpful... Excellent review. My app is for controlling a heated box with a terrarium heater lamp for bread prooving and fungi culture. Let's see how the 240 V version goes with the relay etc.
Hi I guess if it's used for keeping something cold it's better to default to ON. However a second layer of protection is always advisable. Great videos by the way.
I am looking to use a 220v version to control tube heater in a fermentation chamber, but I am unsure what to do about the neutral wire on tube heater and on the mains in plug? Very clear description for the 12v version !
Waterproof probe and ability to handle mains voltage, and you could use an improved version to control a cheap slow-cooker for use as a sous-vide water bath.
One thing the XH-W3001 it doesn't appear to have is a Fahrenheit mode. Living in the US I never think in Celsius. Usually require an online converter to figure Fahrenheit. Most of the other W series thermostats you're able to switch between Celsius and Fahrenheit.
I use a main voltage version with a 40w halogen bulb to heat a breader for hatching eggs And the setup works fine for about 5000 hours The last 3 jears! So I thrust in this little China controller
I'm sure there are scenarios where keeping something at temperature would necessitate the failure mode to be keeping the load on. I.e. I'd rather have a fridge cool too much and freeze things (unless its compressor required a certain off time) than to suddenly cut off and have to throw everything out, suppose it just depends on the application.
Thanks for this, I learned quite a bit. Well presented video. I purchased this for my 12 volt cooler on Amazon. I didn't like that the peltier cooler was on all the time when plugged in, will see if this can minimize my solar electric charged battery consumption on my DIY stepvan tiny home. Cheers from Canada.
just a quick thank you for this video. i've just got one of the mains controllers and it works well.... now i know how it works! ;) You have great channel too, you've got a new sub today :)
If this was used in a cooling application, say running a fan on hot electronics, wouldn't you want the failure scenario to turn on the fan? Seems to me that might have been the logic behind turning on the output if the thermistor fails. Would be nice to have the failure state configurable, but I guess you can't ask for much given the cost.
I got the 220v AC version, I set it overnight, next morning I plug it into the socket and it's dead. The numbers don't turn on and it doesn't give any output voltage. I open it to see if anything is toasted but everything looks normal.. I like fixing things but I am a noob at fixing circuits. Any ideas how to trouble shoot this? is there a way to check if the relay is dead?
@@paulozabalotnicu1897 Mine has a 220v input and 220v output so I don't think it has a transformer, it's like this s2.imagebanana.com/file/181030/jBVtAGn3.JPG
Did it switch on when you shorted the terminals because you didn't short them completely and thus 'measured' a resistance on the thermocouple socket that would be in the 'on' range? You briefly got 27.4ºC on the display when you shorted it and it turned on. A 'proper' short would probably have left the light off and an intermittent one would have the light randomly flashing? Even if this is the case, it's still not ideal that it's just remembering the last setting.
Thanks Clive I know I've paid for uk models maybe 60-100 quid in the past , some of these however had proportional band setting and other offsets etc..Interesting unit
HI I have the 230V variant and for some reasons when it reaches the setted temperature the red light keeps blinking and the relè turns on and off repeatedly. Any advise? thanks
The fact that the load doesn't switch off if the thermistor is disconnected or at fault means that it has probably been designed for cooling applications as opposed to heating applications. Not necessarily a fault depending on what the application it is used for.
So if I got one of these that's rated for mains and then put it inline with the mains power plug on my little space heater, I could theoretically remove the magnetic thermal switch from it and then I could have precise temperature controlled portable heater with a programmable hysteresis?
You can extend the existing one and pot it in resin. If you measure the resistance at around 20 degrees Celsius it will indicate which type of thermistor it is. Often 10K (10,000 ohms).
Hi Clive. I have a similar thermostat to control my 12v fan in my greenhouse. The fan is meant to be rated to 220w. It’s an improvement from the 80w that was there b4. My question is: as it was a £40.00 car rad eBay fan, when measuring current x volts I get 100+ watts at best. A wee review on output of car fans would be great. Also how to build your own 12v temp control circuit. Tried to build one once, then purchased on lol. Keep up the content mate, it’s enlightens plus entertains!greating from the East Neuk of Fife!! 👍
I think those two zero ohm resistors jumping the slot could be bridging the 12v to the relay? So your model actually has 12v on the relay, but remove those two resistors and you just get the bare relay contacts? That would explain why it's jumping the anti-tracking slot.
Thanks big Clive. You’ve helped me. I needed to know if it would remember the settings when the power was removed as I plan to use it to turn on a diesel water heater to keep a circuit from freezing
thanks for your video. i got mine working to come on at 18c and go off at 24c. found today the power out light does no longer come on. probe is still reading accurately but as i say no power output no longer comes on. any ideas please?
Wonder no more. I have been to China many times before. And yes. Their policy is a little bit self centered. they keep all the good stuff for them selves and export lower quality stuff. Unless you buy really expensive high end performance parts and whatnot.
DeoMachina They have different versions of the same stuff. You get what you pay for basically. And yes they usually use the ones that are of good quality. Big Chinese dealers also sell stuff based on regions since in poorer regions people value money more than quality.
no reason not to finance the better stuff by selling it as well, im sure they use a combination of cheaper stuff and better stuff, we can buy both if we try, most of the better stuff is sold under name brands here, the cheaper stuff is sold as generic or value brands, look at say a expensive name brand, its still made in china, they probably design their own face for it, but use the guts of a decent chinese module
Would something like this be ok to run a small 12v heater in a box that hold air suspension tank valves and so to keep it from freezing and popping sensors
I've decided to add a round duct that i can seal and I'm going to use a 12 vokt diesel heater i think as Its mainly for overnight as when it's out on the road it's getting some heat via the exhaust it's a recovery truck air system I'm doing a full video of it on my other channel but thanks mate
Nice video showing how this works. Thank you. I have question in regard to temperature setting. In the event of a power failure, will the unit restore back to the last set temperatures for the "Start" and "Stop" Or it will reset back to the factory default value?
Question: I'd like to distill some vodka (I need reasonably pure ethanol as a solvent). I'd tried freeze distilling (putting the vodka in a 2 litre pop bottle and freezing it) then taking the cap off and holding it upside down over a jug and collecting 40cL (from 1L of 40% vodka) that drips out. This yielded about a 75% solution :(. How about if I get one of these things, a SSR and a cheap electric cooking hob. Use the module to turn the hob on and off at around say 85C, that should be enough to boil the ethanol without boiling the water. Then just channel the vapour through a simple condenser and collect? Would that beat 75% do you think?
Well I need it as pure as possible, like I mentioned I need it as a solvent so I'm essentially trying to turn a 40% solution (vodka) into 95% (rectified spirit). I tried the oil separation method too, but that only yielded about 75% again, I think once the density becomes low enough to float on the oil that's the best it can do. Using a glass bead column I did read about too, but I'd still need some control over the heating to keep the fractioning point of the water stable.
+Eden, yes I think this is the way to go after reading about it. So if I follow you here. The vapour (which is a stronger concentration than the liquid being distilled) starts to condense on the beads in the bottom of the column, the condensate is naturally a stronger concentration, this then re-vapourises forming an even stronger concentrated vapour which again condenses further up the column and the process repeats getting stronger and stronger each time?
Surely there has to be some alternative, easier to obtain solvent? What are you trying to do with this solvent? Rubbing alcohol / Methylated spirits etc would probably be an ok subsitution for most cases.. if it does need to be drinkable woulnd't it be easier to get a bottle of everclear 190 if you're in the states or rectified spirits if your in the rest of the world?
They do versions of these for 12V, 24V, 120V and 240V. They are not suitable for switching very high loads. You may need to use it to power a bigger relay or contactor.
Looks like a T10 / W5W LED COB bulb like www.aliexpress.com/item/Newest-T10-W5W-LED-car-interior-light-cob-cree-marker-lamps-DC-12V-reverse-bulb-dome/32642236592.html Could be wrong, but that's what it looks like to me.
It looks like it might not be too hard to hack that into a dry contact relay. But since you can get a near-identical unit for the same price that is already dry contact, there wouldn't be much point in doing so.
@Paul D. note that this is only IP22 protection class and only for indoor use. If you use it in a greenhouse it might not last long and is also not very safe. I would at least put it into a hefty plastic bag or plastic box and seal it. and use a solid state relay to switch the load if it's more than 30-40 Watt. these little relays are not designed for high resistive loads.
I have a problem I need to know how to set this up to work when it gets hot the fan will go on and cool it down I have a 3 button switch but it looks identical to your two button and on the three button switches got a P1 P2 P3 before that comes with no instructions how to set this up so if you can tell me how to set this up I would really appreciate this thank you Mike
@@bigclivedotcom thank you for replying . I've added 3 m of 0.75mm multistrand flexible wire and it seemed ok for a few days until i've turned it off and then back on and every time i do that it shows a different temp. value from the one it was before i turned it off. Is it because of the cable extension that i did?
You can use the relay in the thermostat to switch a bigger relay or contactor. I'd recommend against a solid state relay unless it's from a real industrial supplier (definitely not eBay). You also have to allow for their failure mode, which is to short out and bring the load on continuously.
@@bigclivedotcom Thank you for taking the time to reply to my comment/question. I am only a beginner at electronics. could you tell me a part number for a 20 amp 220vac relay and socket number if needed for that relay ,or what you think is best . I live in the Philippines after I retired and supplies are limited but if you could, please tell me a part number and I will order from usa plus a sketch of wiring diagram , I would be willing to purchase something if you have an online store. or send you a small fee
@@bigclivedotcom I have followed your advice and ran the output side of the thermostat through a contactor to start and stop my 1 hp air con, thereby reducing the load put upon the small relay of the thermostat. Thank you for your great advice, and taking the time to reply to my question / comment
Hi,, I can see you know a lot about microprocessors,,, I bought a 240v version of this unit,, it only worked 6 hours (on a 60watt tube heater) Now the display is blank,, I checked and 240v is going in at red and black, but all is dead,, had the back off, nowt looks amiss,, any ideas???
Nice video. I am looking at getting this to control the fan on my solar hot air heater to replace the snap disc fan control, greater range oe adjustment. Will I be able to power this with a 12v wall wort?
Thanks BigC I have placed a order, also I noticed that that morning there had been 4 of these sold and that afternoon it had jumped up to 22 pcs. sold so you are a great SALESMAN lol.
This is why I always buy more of a particular product I like before I release the video. And bizarrely, even products I give terrible reviews to, end up selling more.
Hello, I have this unit (240v) and would like to use it to control a loft mounted positive pressure unit. I don't want it to come on above 30c (as this would force hot air into an already hot house) but I do want it to shut off below 6-8ºc (as I don't want the heating to battle a colder temperature than necessary) is this possible with this unit please? Thanks NH
There are units available where you can set an on temperature and an off temperature. They tend to look like this one:- www.ebay.com/itm/254525604145?hash=item3b42e88131:m:moN4M6p1mrqUWsCjOEDJ4OQ Or this one:- www.ebay.com/itm/352877523890?hash=item522923b3b2:g:IhcAAOSwmgJY7Vjm
@@bigclivedotcom Thank you, that's helpful. I used a STC 1000 just on the cold switch. I noticed that my Positive Pressure Ventilation does cut out at the higher temperatures (28ºc) so I can use the STC1000 to switch out when the loft becomes cold. Thanks again for you clear and concise explanations. NH
I was going to use it with a bulb as the heater to make some homebrew as a one off which has to maintain 25C. Didnt know if you could plug the 220v version straight in the mains but ive told apparently you cant and the 12v battery just adds more cost unfortunately
yes it comes in various voltages i got 1 that is 220 v ac and it has check marks where they indicate voltage when built / made . there is 12v dc, 24 v dc and 220 v ac choices available mine is 220 v ac to control my air conditioner here in the philippines Thank You very informative video v
R oh that's what I am trying to do but it will not keep constant temperature it never shut off I shut eyes made it start at 1 degrees Celsius and shut off at 10 and it goes all the way up to about a hundred degrees Fahrenheit
This will do nicely for my computer desk fan setup. The always on during a fault issue will actually be a plus in that usage and any other case when used to cool vital components.
Except it only wen't always on when he shorted it. If it's off when it fails and then it gets hotter...
It's incredible how soothing & therapeutic I find your videos haha
I used one of these to fix an expensive portable fridge that was going to cost me hundreds of dollars to repair the board.
Fortunately the compressor still ran continually with emergency bypass.
I just tapped into the power cable with an automotive relay. Works perfectly.
Has no lower power disconnect though.
I reckon the Chinese might have one of those modules for a couple of bucks.
Thanks for this video it helped me a lot.
I had a lot of fun with this item! So glad you made this video as my fridge is 20+ years old and I fear one day I would awaken to a puddle in the floor from the unit dying overnight. I ordered four of these, 4 12v wall warts, 4 female power jacks, and 4 intermittent sounders. Wired the sounder in to the relay, drilled a hole for the power jack, drilled 6 holes for the sound to escape, put the sounder inside, tight fit but it worked, super glued a magnet to the base, stuck it to the side of the fridge, set it up to monitor the freezer temperature! I used one as a proof of concept, one as a prototype and gave the other two to my brothers. I used the prototype for my personal one and threw the proof of concept one in the junk drawer for future experiments. Only problem was waiting weeks for the components to arrive from China!
buy the thermostat version for 110-220v and its easy (3 wires) replacement for your fridge thermostat. if the fridge dies its either thermostat or the varistor disc thats on the rear of the compressor. both are janky old crap. best fix them both with modern controls instead of waiting for them to fail
I got the same thing, only in 220V, so yes, it can be made in different voltages. On the back it says 12V 110V 220V where mine is marked. Great educational video.
I can't wait till you get your Silver Play button, just think of the LED modifications you can make to it to make it extra awesome!
There should be a clive-special play button, in pink and made with something suitably dangerous... :P
It finally arrived. I've not decided what to do with it yet. In fact it's still in its box.
Vinyl wrap it in pink, get a big enough frame and add some lights! It'd make for a pretty cool video IMHO.
After that, restore it to its original condition and hang it pretty in your home, as a reminder to yourself of how someone (you) from the Isle of Man can make such a big impact on the lives of so many people around the world!
It needs a capacitor dropper.
Neon Pink!
I just purchased one of these for controlling a home made solar powered roof (attic) fan setup and came across your very useful demo on how to set it up and adjust it, many thanks. Tomorrows and the following two days peak temp is 40+C so the roof extractor should continuously operation if this has been correctly followed i.e. Well into the red zone NSW in Oz
Picked this up to add a couple old PC fans to my hen house. When it gets too warm in there a couple fans will start circulating air and turn on a light as a warning.
Very simple and nice.
Thanks for the video.
Hello Sir, I don't know what I have been doing wrong, mine reads 12v 110v 220v but I keep on short-circuiting them. Kindly assist me out on how to regulate the amount of power needed.
Thank you
I bought a 120v sous-vide temp control module for my vodka/brewing setup (it controls the heat mats I use to warm the fermenters) and it's been one of my best e-bay purchases yet. Very reliable and quite versatile for brewing with 0.1 deg precision and all sorts of alarm conditions and stuff I don't even need. It was around $25 CAD and a comparable unit here was something crazy like $125 or higher. When they care to, Chinese factories can turn out some very well-engineered stuff for not a lot of money.
The difference between set point and reset point is normally called "deadband". Hysteresis is usually used to define the difference between in a continuous output when the signal is rising or falling.
I purchased one to use to cool my power supply when loaded. Works fantastic!
Surprising how often you see the little Songle relays, and how tough the little buggers are.
Another thermostat for converting freezers to energy efficient refrigerators! Quite popular with the off-grid crowd.
sounds nice
I reckon the "on when thermistor shorted" feature/weakness is actually intentional design and not an oversight. Consider how you could use a switch to override the controller by placing it in parallel with the thermistor. The advantage of this over having an external bypass switch, is that the controller will indicate an override is active on its display. Also, the switch doesn't have to be capable of switching the 'high' current passing through the load. I suspect the load on/off state for a short and open circuit thermistor will reverse if you set it to "cooling mode".
This controller was used on our incubator. It started to overheat and this was just the solution. Thank you. I hope the quail eggs will be alright from. The moment it overheated...
Hello. I am planning to put it in my incubator so my question is " How many degree do you put ON - OFF time?
@@jlopezleonoff 38.0
On 37.2
Thanks Clive. I bought one on E Bay and there were no instructions. I couldn't work out how to set it using trial and error. Your video saved the day. I've used it with my slow cooker to do some sous vide cooking. (These are available to control a 250 volt supply.)
I got this exact product & model in my mail today......so I'm glad I found this video to see how it really works..... cheers! :D
Is it still working?
Thank you so much. I have a 220V AC version of the exact same device. Using what I could see in your video I modded mine to run on 12V DC. Works like a charm.
How you mod that to run on 12v please let me know
How you mod this to run on 12v
cheers clive. i got one on aliexpress for a quid fifty but no instructions. yesterday my 7 month old fridge died because of the thermostat. i now have installed this gadget and have a digital fridge! i also removed the motor start varistor and built a circuit with a capacitor and 2 relays to give the start winding a fraction second pulse when needed. where i live there are lots of powerline issues where the power can drop for just long enough for a motor to stop but not long enough for a varistor to cool off, leaving the compressor to cook until the overtemp cutout trips. i recommend both these mods to anyone capable. it also cures the problem with keeping a deep freeze in the garage in the cold then having it self defrost on a cold day and ruin your food.
in my case i still had 2 year guarantee but taking it back to the shop would cost in petrol 4x the price of this thermostat i had on the shelf.
i get really pissed off as an electronics engineer when i see the jenky way cars and domestic appliances are wired just to save a penny per unit.
Thank you Clive . Educational as always. Keep up the excellent work
Thank you for your video.
I'm installing underfloor heating and was sold programmable WiFi touch screen room thermostats and floor temperature probes for every room and actuators for every circuit. However, I had my doubts that this made sense. I'm doing it as part of my conversion to a heat pump and the heat pump hates being zoned off. Big zones with high volume are what keeps heat pumps ticking over gently and efficiently rather than cycling on and off inefficiently. After a discussion with my installer that confirmed my suspicions, I returned all the thermostats, probes and actuators. They're not needed. In fact, they would lower my system efficiency substantially!
What I really want is simple thermostatic protection to turn off the heating if the wooden flooring reaches 38C above which it can start cracking. Ot should never happen as the calculated temperature of my underfloor heating flow is just 32C in the coldest of British winters. It looks like the W3001 is exactly what I need as a sentinel, since the whole heating system works at mains voltage. They can be fitted in every room with wooden flooring, all be wired in series, so that if any of them goes over temperature the circuit opens and the call for heat from the heat pump is shut off. Not beating about the bush - the solution is about 2% of the cost of what was sold to me! I'll fit 2 probes under every floor so that in the unlikely event that one fails then it's simply a matter of connecting the other probe instead, not lifting the floor! Set and forget is so much more simple and straightforward than needing to programme an expensive thermostat in every room.
I've also bought a load of W1209 controls that are 12V only, unboxed PCBs providing essentially the same functionality. I implemented one on my boat years ago to toggle the 12V circulating pump on the back boiler of my solid fuel stove, so that it only runs when needed. It has never missed a beat and goodness knows how much battery power it has conserved. I decided that whilst I'm commissioning my underfloor heating, I would like to measure the return temperature of each of the circuits, so that I can equalise them irrespective of their relative lengths by adjusting the flow control valves accordingly. The W1209s cost 68p plus VAT each from AliExpress. After I'm all set up, this will also be set and forget, I can use them for something else. Maybe an experiment to establish the perfect compost temperature for incubating my tomato seedlings? At this price you can have so much fun at such little cost.
THANK YOU MUCHLY FOR THIS VIDEO, as my purchase came without instructions...You have made things very clear, and make the wiring job a sinch. Using this gizmo to trigger exhaust fans on my liesure battery bank underneath the passenger double seat of our Sprinter Campervan. Thanks again. :)
I purchased one to fix a 1500W heater. One version is given for 220V 10A. Must say that for 3.35€ including shipping, it is rather competitive! Just installed it and works well. No clue about long term reliability. But for this price...Thanks for the clear video explaining how to set "heating"/"cooling mode" which is not straightforward on the website. Hope the coronavirus was not in the parcel :-)
Seems a solid little unit.
Could easily power a larger external relay to power heavier equipment.
Help me plz...how do I convert this to 12v to 110-220v
I bought 3 of these. Installed one on my RV, over the range fan. Seems the small brains can’t remember to turn on the fan when cooking. This is great in that it now turns it on automatically when it detects heat.
I suppose when theres a fault or disconnection of the temperature probe its pretty much 50/50 whether it would be preferable for it to default to on or off depending on the application, especially since it can be used in both directions. like you say you need an extra failsafe mechanism. but the thing is probably intended to a just a part of a wider control system so thats fair enough
Excellent instruction. Thank you for your detailed examination of the module.
I've found most of these controls work fine (for hobby use only of course) but it never drive more than an amp or so directly. It's always a good idea to drive and nice name brand relay.
yes, not even the cables are ready for 10 A
I built myself a refrigerator using a 100W peltier plate and I'm powering it with the +12V rail of a ATX PSU. The current issue I have is it just runs as cold as the room will let it get. Which is causing large amounts of ice to build up on the heatsink inside the unit which is causing cooling effectiveness issues. Not to mention the ice buildup is stopping the fan from circulating the cold air inside the unit. This seems like the perfect "legos for adults" component to regulate the internal temperature more effectively if it can run off +12V and deliver up to 100W.
I bought one for 220V/1500W and it principally works the same, though it is not as intuitive to use as the one you are demonstrating, it does not flash when the settings are ready to be changed. Does the job, heats up a silicon heating pad within the range. My only comment would be the in/out wiring which seems to be rather flimsy for such high voltages and wattage, the heating pad is 750W and there are 2 of them, seems to work fine. Thanks for helping with figuring out how to set the controller, difficult when it comes with no instructions.
I have a ptcheater fan for an enclosure I'm building. The ptc fan module was pulling 10amps even when it was off
The microcontroller is an STM8003F3 series with 8KB of flash memory.
If you have an ST-Link V2 programmer and can access the programming pin (pin 18), you could reprogram it with some custom firmware to fix the output staying on when the sensor gets disconnected.
I'm wondering if the empty 4 pin connector under the STM8 chip is the SWIM programming connector making this even easier to do.
I've been looking all over the place for the microcontroller used. Thanks for the info!
Aww damn, wish I knew these things existed when I built my new computer, a bunch of those with the thermistors gooped onto the various heat syncs would be great fan controls
Mort OOPz you're more better of using it for the air inside the case than the heatsinks
Would love to see a comparison and your general take on what is practically the default option for temperature control in home brewing; the STC-1000. It's only around £8 on ebay and almost everyone that builds a fermentation chamber or kegerator seems to be using it.
hey, im trying to use this to switch a heat cartridge, i have the 12v 120w model. So what i did is, i hooked up a Lipo 3 cell 12v battery to the input, and a 12v 40 watt 3d printer heat cartridge on the output, i set it up just like he did in the video to heat, but even when the output light is on, the heat cartridge does not heat up, anyone has an idea what could be wrong ? is it the lipo ? only thing i could imagine being the problem is the heat cartridge being broken :/ please help :(
An even-cheaper version of the DIN modular thermostat packages from Willhay Electronics. Mind you theirs were 240V rated, with everything programmable, alarm contacts, o/p changeover contacts, etc for a rather measly $20 AU! If you don't need sophistication, this would be great - idea as a fridge thermostat, or fishtank heater stat. That PCB has a lot of space and markings for added components, so its probable that there is a 240V version out there. Well worth looking for, and I'll be buying a few to play with. Thanks Clive!
Great little device for running an over temp siren for our server room.
It would be interesting to know if that unused 4 way connector under the chip is the SWIM programming port for flashing the firmware onto it in the first place. If it is one pin should to pin 18 (data) and the other to pin 4 (reset) of the chip and the other two being power.
Mine shows 1,5 degrees more than it actually is, but I can't seem to find a way to calibrate it... I have it for 1 year now in my incubator and im setting it to 39 degrees (Celsius) to actually get the 37.5 that I need). Big negative for this device the absence of calibration option.
How can you stand temperatures _that_ cold? Anything under 26c feels like freezing for me.! I can't wait for the Summer to come back, God I miss it so much right now you have no idea
CoolDudeClem holy shit, I have the air on way before it gets to 26C (79F).
I usually have it at about 15C. 12C at night. I only crank it up to 20C if I have visitors. I'm also a Scot. I guess it depends on the type of climate you're used to. Also the cost of energy where you are. 26C would have me panting on the floor!
+dalriada842 I'd melt at 26. I'm comfy at 15 (if I'm just sitting), less if I 'm doing something. But I'm a Scot Canadian. I imagine CoolDude is from somewhere a bit hotter. It is funny watching new immigrants from Africa coming here and putting parkas on when it's 20 out ;)
26 that shorts and no shirt weather!
20C would be a warm summer's day here. :)
Thanks indeed for your insight Clive. I had to find a circuit diagramme for the same item that I have just received. As always you are very helpful... Excellent review. My app is for controlling a heated box with a terrarium heater lamp for bread prooving and fungi culture. Let's see how the 240 V version goes with the relay etc.
Hi I guess if it's used for keeping something cold it's better to default to ON. However a second layer of protection is always advisable. Great videos by the way.
I am looking to use a 220v version to control tube heater in a fermentation chamber, but I am unsure what to do about the neutral wire on tube heater and on the mains in plug?
Very clear description for the 12v version !
Waterproof probe and ability to handle mains voltage, and you could use an improved version to control a cheap slow-cooker for use as a sous-vide water bath.
markiangooley that's what I did! The unit controls a contactor->1000w immersion heater, best stakes I've ever cooked 😀
Thanks !!! I couldn’t set it up and this video help me a lot 👍 👏 😊
One thing the XH-W3001 it doesn't appear to have is a Fahrenheit mode. Living in the US I never think in Celsius. Usually require an online converter to figure Fahrenheit. Most of the other W series thermostats you're able to switch between Celsius and Fahrenheit.
can we change the output (light) with a heater?
I use a main voltage version with a 40w halogen bulb to heat a breader for hatching eggs
And the setup works fine for about 5000 hours
The last 3 jears!
So I thrust in this little China controller
@@aggrobert8490 ive used it for my Final Year Project, and believe me, this things can work higher than ur expectations
Hi, do you think that a small plug can be mounted on the probe wire without affecting annything? I need to mount the probe in a remote battery pack.
I'm sure there are scenarios where keeping something at temperature would necessitate the failure mode to be keeping the load on. I.e. I'd rather have a fridge cool too much and freeze things (unless its compressor required a certain off time) than to suddenly cut off and have to throw everything out, suppose it just depends on the application.
Thanks for this, I learned quite a bit. Well presented video.
I purchased this for my 12 volt cooler on Amazon. I didn't like that the peltier cooler was on all the time when plugged in, will see if this can minimize my solar electric charged battery consumption on my DIY stepvan tiny home. Cheers from Canada.
just a quick thank you for this video. i've just got one of the mains controllers and it works well.... now i know how it works! ;)
You have great channel too, you've got a new sub today :)
Hi Clive. Can you see an easy way to change this unit so it it will go to ground instead of supply + power.
Not sure what you mean by that.
If this was used in a cooling application, say running a fan on hot electronics, wouldn't you want the failure scenario to turn on the fan? Seems to me that might have been the logic behind turning on the output if the thermistor fails.
Would be nice to have the failure state configurable, but I guess you can't ask for much given the cost.
I got the 220v AC version, I set it overnight, next morning I plug it into the socket and it's dead.
The numbers don't turn on and it doesn't give any output voltage.
I open it to see if anything is toasted but everything looks normal..
I like fixing things but I am a noob at fixing circuits.
Any ideas how to trouble shoot this? is there a way to check if the relay is dead?
transformer is out
@@paulozabalotnicu1897 Mine has a 220v input and 220v output so I don't think it has a transformer,
it's like this s2.imagebanana.com/file/181030/jBVtAGn3.JPG
@@paulozabalotnicu1897 thanks for the reply though
Its chinese made.. everything written on it.. actually only has quarters on real capacity
Did it switch on when you shorted the terminals because you didn't short them completely and thus 'measured' a resistance on the thermocouple socket that would be in the 'on' range? You briefly got 27.4ºC on the display when you shorted it and it turned on. A 'proper' short would probably have left the light off and an intermittent one would have the light randomly flashing? Even if this is the case, it's still not ideal that it's just remembering the last setting.
They are so cheap, just run a few in series to get round this issue!
In incubator temperature is showing on 3 thermostat 35° but on this xh30001 is showing 37,5° how to fix it or that? Please help ! 😊
I wonder if it still keeps its memory setting if the capacitors are discharged.
Thanks Clive I know I've paid for uk models maybe 60-100 quid in the past , some of these however had proportional band setting and other offsets etc..Interesting unit
the 4 button models have offset and hysteresis settings and only a quid more.
the little hygrometers I buy have pins you can short to get F. I wonder if this has them
HI I have the 230V variant and for some reasons when it reaches the setted temperature the red light keeps blinking and the relè turns on and off repeatedly. Any advise? thanks
The fact that the load doesn't switch off if the thermistor is disconnected or at fault means that it has probably been designed for cooling applications as opposed to heating applications. Not necessarily a fault depending on what the application it is used for.
So if I got one of these that's rated for mains and then put it inline with the mains power plug on my little space heater, I could theoretically remove the magnetic thermal switch from it and then I could have precise temperature controlled portable heater with a programmable hysteresis?
I wouldn't recommend switching the high load of a heater directly through this. An external generously rated relay could be an option though.
Just came across this video and bought some my question is how do I change the temperature sensor as I need a longer waterproof proof one
Thank you
You can extend the existing one and pot it in resin. If you measure the resistance at around 20 degrees Celsius it will indicate which type of thermistor it is. Often 10K (10,000 ohms).
Hi Clive. I have a similar thermostat to control my 12v fan in my greenhouse. The fan is meant to be rated to 220w. It’s an improvement from the 80w that was there b4. My question is: as it was a £40.00 car rad eBay fan, when measuring current x volts I get 100+ watts at best. A wee review on output of car fans would be great. Also how to build your own 12v temp control circuit. Tried to build one once, then purchased on lol. Keep up the content mate, it’s enlightens plus entertains!greating from the East Neuk of Fife!! 👍
I think those two zero ohm resistors jumping the slot could be bridging the 12v to the relay? So your model actually has 12v on the relay, but remove those two resistors and you just get the bare relay contacts? That would explain why it's jumping the anti-tracking slot.
Thanks big Clive. You’ve helped me. I needed to know if it would remember the settings when the power was removed as I plan to use it to turn on a diesel water heater to keep a circuit from freezing
thanks for your video. i got mine working to come on at 18c and go off at 24c. found today the power out light does no longer come on. probe is still reading accurately but as i say no power output no longer comes on. any ideas please?
I tried to setup this item but it's doesn't work I don't know why.
Same for myself. I have two of them. I can get the light to come on indicating the relay is closed, but there is no output.
I bought a 240V one, I'm going to use it to turn on a fan on a solar heater. Thanks for this information, mine came with nothing.
You ever wonder if China has much better stuff for its factories, and they just don't export it much?
they have just good enough stuff for their factories, like the controller in the video. you're not gonna see much honeywell in china.
Wonder no more. I have been to China many times before.
And yes. Their policy is a little bit self centered. they keep all the good stuff for them selves and export lower quality stuff. Unless you buy really expensive high end performance parts and whatnot.
DeoMachina They have different versions of the same stuff. You get what you pay for basically. And yes they usually use the ones that are of good quality. Big Chinese dealers also sell stuff based on regions since in poorer regions people value money more than quality.
I suppose that makes sense, since the west already produces good stuff, China can't compete as well with the extra overheads tacked on
no reason not to finance the better stuff by selling it as well, im sure they use a combination of cheaper stuff and better stuff, we can buy both if we try, most of the better stuff is sold under name brands here, the cheaper stuff is sold as generic or value brands, look at say a expensive name brand, its still made in china, they probably design their own face for it, but use the guts of a decent chinese module
Would something like this be ok to run a small 12v heater in a box that hold air suspension tank valves and so to keep it from freezing and popping sensors
They do a 12V version. The heater will have to be fairly low power though.
@bigclivedotcom 2 think it's 200 wats
@@thecarpfather5757 That would need a switching capability of about 20A, so you may need to add an external relay, switched by the small internal one.
I've decided to add a round duct that i can seal and I'm going to use a 12 vokt diesel heater i think as Its mainly for overnight as when it's out on the road it's getting some heat via the exhaust it's a recovery truck air system I'm doing a full video of it on my other channel but thanks mate
Nice video showing how this works. Thank you.
I have question in regard to temperature setting. In the event of a power failure, will the unit restore back to the last set temperatures for the "Start" and "Stop" Or it will reset back to the factory default value?
It should store the settings.
My XH-W3001 shows the Temperatur in Fahrenheit not in °C, How can i change this ?
So if i want it to warm like 38.5° the first one(up )needs to be 38 the second 39° to
Thanks for another great video, Mr Clive
Can be used to control an electrical heater of 1500W? Is there a danger of melting?
Not recommended for direct control of high current.
Question: I'd like to distill some vodka (I need reasonably pure ethanol as a solvent). I'd tried freeze distilling (putting the vodka in a 2 litre pop bottle and freezing it) then taking the cap off and holding it upside down over a jug and collecting 40cL (from 1L of 40% vodka) that drips out. This yielded about a 75% solution :(. How about if I get one of these things, a SSR and a cheap electric cooking hob. Use the module to turn the hob on and off at around say 85C, that should be enough to boil the ethanol without boiling the water. Then just channel the vapour through a simple condenser and collect? Would that beat 75% do you think?
SpudHead depends.
If done properly but probably not.
But you can always daisy chain those cookers.
Well I need it as pure as possible, like I mentioned I need it as a solvent so I'm essentially trying to turn a 40% solution (vodka) into 95% (rectified spirit). I tried the oil separation method too, but that only yielded about 75% again, I think once the density becomes low enough to float on the oil that's the best it can do. Using a glass bead column I did read about too, but I'd still need some control over the heating to keep the fractioning point of the water stable.
There's a destillation limit to ethanol. It needs to be dried with chemicals that react with water or it's boiling point has to be altered.
+Eden, yes I think this is the way to go after reading about it. So if I follow you here. The vapour (which is a stronger concentration than the liquid being distilled) starts to condense on the beads in the bottom of the column, the condensate is naturally a stronger concentration, this then re-vapourises forming an even stronger concentrated vapour which again condenses further up the column and the process repeats getting stronger and stronger each time?
Surely there has to be some alternative, easier to obtain solvent? What are you trying to do with this solvent? Rubbing alcohol / Methylated spirits etc would probably be an ok subsitution for most cases.. if it does need to be drinkable woulnd't it be easier to get a bottle of everclear 190 if you're in the states or rectified spirits if your in the rest of the world?
I have a module almost exactly like that as a fan controller. Its mains voltage though and just the board.
Hello, I connect mine directly and results are bad. Which adapter can I use while powering it on
They do versions of these for 12V, 24V, 120V and 240V. They are not suitable for switching very high loads. You may need to use it to power a bigger relay or contactor.
What bulb is that you used?
Looks like a T10 / W5W LED COB bulb like www.aliexpress.com/item/Newest-T10-W5W-LED-car-interior-light-cob-cree-marker-lamps-DC-12V-reverse-bulb-dome/32642236592.html
Could be wrong, but that's what it looks like to me.
Similar to that one linked, but more of a traditional shape and an absolutely hideous shade of white.
bigclivedotcom I still like it as a test light
subscribed an hour ago and here is new video
new vids just about every day/night hes a night owl
It looks like it might not be too hard to hack that into a dry contact relay. But since you can get a near-identical unit for the same price that is already dry contact, there wouldn't be much point in doing so.
Thank you for this nice review.
I will be ordering one for my little greenhouse.
You really deserve that ice-cold beverage ;-)
@Paul D. note that this is only IP22 protection class and only for indoor use. If you use it in a greenhouse it might not last long and is also not very safe. I would at least put it into a hefty plastic bag or plastic box and seal it. and use a solid state relay to switch the load if it's more than 30-40 Watt. these little relays are not designed for high resistive loads.
Great video and really useful info, just what I am looking for to control a fan in a small network cupboard, thanks Big Clive.
How to do correction/calibration of temperature in this device?
I have a problem I need to know how to set this up to work when it gets hot the fan will go on and cool it down I have a 3 button switch but it looks identical to your two button and on the three button switches got a P1 P2 P3 before that comes with no instructions how to set this up so if you can tell me how to set this up I would really appreciate this thank you Mike
If you search my channel for thermostat or temperature you'll find other modules. One may have a similar menu system on the three buttons.
and what if i extend the sensor cable by another meter.....will it still work?
Yes, but for long runs you may need to use screened cable.
@@bigclivedotcom thank you for replying . I've added 3 m of 0.75mm multistrand flexible wire and it seemed ok for a few days until i've turned it off and then back on and every time i do that it shows a different temp. value from the one it was before i turned it off. Is it because of the cable extension that i did?
The sensor is buried about 25-30 cm undersoil
@@razvanon I'd recommend using screened cable if the wire is going anywhere near other cables.
How would you upgrade to a bigger solid state module to handle 30 amps 220 vac but only put 5 amp
load on the small thermostat
You can use the relay in the thermostat to switch a bigger relay or contactor. I'd recommend against a solid state relay unless it's from a real industrial supplier (definitely not eBay). You also have to allow for their failure mode, which is to short out and bring the load on continuously.
@@bigclivedotcom Thank you for taking the time to reply to my comment/question.
I am only a beginner at electronics. could you tell me a part number for a 20 amp 220vac relay and socket number if needed for that relay ,or what you think is best . I live in the Philippines after I retired and supplies are limited but if you could, please tell me a part number and I will order from usa plus a sketch of wiring diagram , I would be willing to purchase something if you have an online store. or send you a small fee
@@bigclivedotcom I have followed your advice and ran the output side of the thermostat through a contactor to start and stop my 1 hp air con, thereby reducing the load put upon the small relay of the thermostat. Thank you for your great advice, and taking the time to reply to my question / comment
If we increase the length of sensor wire and placed in another room, will it work?
Hi,, I can see you know a lot about microprocessors,,, I bought a 240v version of this unit,, it only worked 6 hours (on a 60watt tube heater) Now the display is blank,, I checked and 240v is going in at red and black, but all is dead,, had the back off, nowt looks amiss,, any ideas???
do you think this could power a strip of heat tape as used in reptile incubators
I'd always suggest a properly rated external relay and a backup device to protect against harming the reptiles if it locked up or failed.
Nice video. I am looking at getting this to control the fan on my solar hot air heater to replace the snap disc fan control, greater range oe adjustment. Will I be able to power this with a 12v wall wort?
A 12V DC wall wart should be fine. The output of the unit will then be that same 12V but switched.
Thanks BigC I have placed a order, also I noticed that that morning there had been 4 of these sold and that afternoon it had jumped up to 22 pcs. sold so you are a great SALESMAN lol.
This is why I always buy more of a particular product I like before I release the video. And bizarrely, even products I give terrible reviews to, end up selling more.
Do you have a video on how to calibrate?
handy device, it could be good for controlling venting fans in a camper van to keep it cool
Hello, I have this unit (240v) and would like to use it to control a loft mounted positive pressure unit. I don't want it to come on above 30c (as this would force hot air into an already hot house) but I do want it to shut off below 6-8ºc (as I don't want the heating to battle a colder temperature than necessary) is this possible with this unit please? Thanks NH
There are units available where you can set an on temperature and an off temperature.
They tend to look like this one:-
www.ebay.com/itm/254525604145?hash=item3b42e88131:m:moN4M6p1mrqUWsCjOEDJ4OQ
Or this one:-
www.ebay.com/itm/352877523890?hash=item522923b3b2:g:IhcAAOSwmgJY7Vjm
@@bigclivedotcom Thank you, that's helpful. I used a STC 1000 just on the cold switch. I noticed that my Positive Pressure Ventilation does cut out at the higher temperatures (28ºc) so I can use the STC1000 to switch out when the loft becomes cold. Thanks again for you clear and concise explanations. NH
Can the probe be lengthened by a few meters?
Nice concise vid but can i plug the 220v straight into the mains here in britain or am i better off getting the 12v and a battery?
It depends on the application and the load being switched.
I was going to use it with a bulb as the heater to make some homebrew as a one off which has to maintain 25C. Didnt know if you could plug the 220v version straight in the mains but ive told apparently you cant and the 12v battery just adds more cost unfortunately
Hi, In my country there is always power outage, so I wanted to know if we could use the thermostat W3001 and w1209 with a battery and how? Please 🙏
yes it comes in various voltages i got 1 that is 220 v ac and it has check marks where they indicate voltage when built / made . there is 12v dc, 24 v dc and 220 v ac choices available mine is 220 v ac to control my air conditioner here in the philippines
Thank You very informative video
v
how could you fit this on an aquarium heater
R oh that's what I am trying to do but it will not keep constant temperature it never shut off I shut eyes made it start at 1 degrees Celsius and shut off at 10 and it goes all the way up to about a hundred degrees Fahrenheit