I like how you mention, reasonably, that you really want to make sure to use the right fasteners to avoid tearing out threads, but still persist in using power tools to put threaded fasteners in aluminum parts.
It has a clutch to prevent overloading, but I see your point. I end up over torquing things by hand more often FWIW. The best tool would be a smaller electric screwdriver designed specifically for electronics assembly.
We use drills to run threaded fasteners in aluminum all the time with aircraft. Busting the threads out is fairly rare with modern drills if you have half an idea what you're doing. Between setting clutches, not running it to final torque, running slow, etc. there's a whole lot of ways to not damage anything.
Who uses hand? Man, just engage the clutch and set it for lower torque. It's like those people who insist on putting IKEA cabinets together by hand. Try doing 10 of those a day and you'll use electric screwdriver on your second cabinet. Damn lol
I’m pretty sure I read “don’t use an electric drill/screwdriver” about 20 times in the catalog type instruction manual and detailed to hell lol Awesome video man 😂
I think these are good if you're realllllly space limited but I'll take the 3 separate machines just to not have to undo those 20+ bed screws. Jack of all trades master of none
I got the same setup, plus some extras. It does everything I need it to do. My only real complaint is that it's slow, and I thought that 2 years ago when I bought it, before all the high speed printers hit the market.
I don't think there's a 3d printer IN THE WORLD that could STAND UP to Nathan's common-sense testing. Not ONE! But I'm sure there are plenty of printer makers that think their machine can "take it? The question is: Are they willing to put their 3D Printers where their hopes and dreams are? Of course, all of them will be wanted Nathan's SUPREME 3D Printer AWARD. It's a solid gold colored 3d print in PLA of Nathan holding the WINNING PRINTER high above his head! Every company wants the award. They want the accolades! The want the International Publicity! But none of them are ready for what Nathan Builds Robots can dish out: super common-sense analysis of every single aspect of their printers. As he digs in, and deconstructs their printers, the raw underbellies of all of them will be revealed! But they're still coming. They're still sending him their printers. All of them are trying, and Nathan's feeling like he's going to break something in the process!
I appreciate this review. Either it being user error or missed manufacturing possibilities, these are things your average user will encounter. And it's a good counterweight to all the reviewers that blow it out their ass because they received the machine for free. I've been looking at the A350T because it seems to do 3D printing well but also can do some simple/easy CnC milling and maybe some laser cutting/engraving. I would love to get 3 separate machines that excel at it but I simply don't have the space to stack them all, as long as the 3D printing is fine I can live with the 4-5x cost price and less performance of the laser/mill cutting.
I shit on it even though I got it for free. All these RUclipsrs are working on building relationships with any company that will give them machines or money,m. It’s the way the world goes round.
Jack of all trades master of none me thinks. Ridiculous amount of screws for the bed, like you said, snapmaker. I think everything should be tool less for easy swapping.
Some nice design improvement insight but that readjustment of axes while machine being on was painfull to watch :D (and that printhead dissasembly too)
I hear ppl complaining about the proprietary tech in the Bambulabs printer. I personally thing proprietary parts on something that breaks down as often as a 3D printer is an awful idea. However, at least you get performance with the bambu. Here all you get is… disappointment.
You really don´t seem like someone who should be testing machines and making videos about it. You ramble about not liking that the powersupply being externally but fail to mension that this thing has an option for an enclosure wich makes it necessary to have the powersupply external. There are countrys in wich you actually can´t get a snapmaker without it due to legal issues in therms of laser safety. A powersupply in the enclosure would for shure not last verry long when printing due to the temps or the dust when milling. You complain aboout the buiding process and how it´s confusing with one of the best building guides out there. It´s showing exactly where every screw goes and wich oreantation stuff has to be mounted in. If you don´t even care enough to read a manual on your 1400 bucks machine you should probably just not even get one in the first place. You turn up the print speed to 500% and then complain about the underextrusion wich makes me think that you already know your conclusion on this machine and are just searching for stuff to show of as bad. You know there is a thing called maximum flowrate wich a hotend is just physically not capable of exceeding. This is not advertised as a fast printer and it isn´t meant to do so. Its like buying a honda civic and complaining about loosing control at 400km/h. And then you draw your conclusion on the machines printing capabilitys based on on print.... that you speed up by 500%........... And then you explain that you got a 3 in 1 machine but will treat it just as a 3d printer because you are not interested in the other functions and proceed to compare it to a random 3D printer that is in no way a good or reasonable comparison to this machine. You compare a race car to an suv, does´t work or is resonable to do. If you know you are not interested in the 2 other functions why did you get the A series model? I have an A350 myself an i agree on some points you made in this video, for example the issue where the filament dropps from the spool when the printer is homing is an issue that is really anyoying, like the messy cables hanging from the side. The 22 screws required is also something i can see being anyoing, however me being someone who works in mechanical engineering, i know that this probably is for the better to prevent the heater pcb from warping and deforming due to the heat during printing, still something they could have figured out a quick release for. But in the end you just come across as someone who genuinely doesn´t care about making a good review, doesn´t inform himself properly on the stuff he is reviewing, drawing quick conclusions or not even giving it a try in the first place and then making completly senseless, baseless comparisons that don´t make sense.
Yeah it was the speed that caused the underextrusion not the WRONG esteps from the manufacturer. Even 22 fasteners wouldn't work in keeping that flat on the contrary. If the heater plate can deform so much it will be wavy and under a lot of stress. Even though it is legal to get the laser without proper protection the manufacturer shouldn't sell the laser without it. They play with the health of uninformed users to make a buck.
He was talking about underextrusion BEFORE he upped the speed. And other people have complained about it. Overpriced turd is overpriced turd, the fact he goes through the trouble of continuing to try and make it work well, and points out the myriad problems as he finds them means he's actually doing a thorough review. It's loud and incredibly overpriced. The poor assembly and ridiculous amount of work that goes into changing mode just seal the tomb. It doesn't belong in a Bambu era.
An easy fix would be to permanently mount the bed to a plate, then use 4 screws to attach that sandwich to the moving carriage. Easy fix for underextrusion is to ship the machine with the correct ESteps per mm after it being a known issue for 3 years. Easy fix for filament getting caught is to install a guide, change how the machine homes itself, or relocate the filament holder. This machine is full of low hanging fruit for improvements, if they aren’t going to put in the effort to polish their design, I’m not going to put in the effort to polish a turd. I agree that I’ve been harsh on this machine, but as a reviewer and critic of 3d printers, I think I would be remiss in my duties if I give anyone the impression this would be a good choice as their first 3D printer. Way too expensive, and I find the artillery quite comparable. It’s got a similar build volume and feature set as a 3D printer. The enclosure is even more necessary on this machine than other lasers I have seen. It fires the laser straight down into the bed, which is studded with shiny chrome screws. You couldn’t make it more of a hazard if you tried. Given the massive aluminum base, they could sink a ton of heat into it, to the point where the whole thing might be able to be cooled passively. That means no fans, no problems with dust. However, I will completely agree with you that I put it together wrong despite having instructions, and that I don’t care about making a “good” (positive) review. I really do appreciate the comments and discussion, I know people will disagree on things at times, but this is all just one man’s opinion. Not everyone has to, or should, agree!
Hey nathan, I fucked up my hurakan microprobe by printing too fast, the pin screwed itself out the probe enough to ram into the print and now its broken
Sorry to hear that. It is a new design, bound to be some growing pains as they start up production. They should offer to send you a replacement, if not, you might want to come up with a CR-Touch or BL-Touch mount instead
@@NathanBuildsRobots Im sure the voron I build for my birthday will have less issues because It doest have a warped china bed, no probe that unscrews itself and other design flaws that happen when you let a marketing team design a printer. Just quality components.
have you tried using a ceramic FDM filament ?Also did you try the metal filament ? I wanted to buy one but skeptical on its practicality .(Didnt want to buy it unless its reliable )
filament with ceramic and metal additives sound iffy. If the granules are clumped up, they can cause nozzle clogs. Also the filament becomes more brittle the more stuff you add to it, so its a little more difficult to handle. It really depends on the application, I doubt you need ceramic or metal additives unless you have some kind of crazy application. I guess they could look cool too. Carbon fiber is the "best" additive IMO.
@@NathanBuildsRobots thanks bro .Is it possible to 3d print a ceramic rc jet engine ? That was my main reason to post its's the ones i see made of metal sell for 3-4000 euro.
@@crewneckdeath6801 Depends on how complex. Do you mean a rocket engine or jet engine? Jets have a lot of small blades that have to be made of thin metal, 3D printing is not the best at making thin features because the granularity/resolution ends up being an issue when printing under 1mm thick. Also things warp quite significantly. That said, it could be done, it just wouldn't be the most efficient jet in the world.
These linear actuators use ballscrews (at least that's what was shown on one of the teardown videos), not belts, so I seriously doubt this can get close to true 10K accel. I also do NOT like the minimalistic heatblock. Looks like that will definitely cause the thermistor (at the same side as the heater compared to the nozzle) to report a higher temperature than the nozzle is actually seeing. Perhaps that is part of the cause of the underextrusion you were getting. So I think this is better suited as a small CNC than as a 3d printer.
I like how you mention, reasonably, that you really want to make sure to use the right fasteners to avoid tearing out threads, but still persist in using power tools to put threaded fasteners in aluminum parts.
It has a clutch to prevent overloading, but I see your point. I end up over torquing things by hand more often FWIW.
The best tool would be a smaller electric screwdriver designed specifically for electronics assembly.
We use drills to run threaded fasteners in aluminum all the time with aircraft. Busting the threads out is fairly rare with modern drills if you have half an idea what you're doing. Between setting clutches, not running it to final torque, running slow, etc. there's a whole lot of ways to not damage anything.
Who uses hand? Man, just engage the clutch and set it for lower torque. It's like those people who insist on putting IKEA cabinets together by hand. Try doing 10 of those a day and you'll use electric screwdriver on your second cabinet. Damn lol
Hahaha, "nice mix of auto bed leveling and manual so they can always blame you if things go wrong" Yes! 💯
It genuinely is a good system, only requires you to do the final point, which lets you set the z offset. Better than virtually every creality machine.
I’m pretty sure I read “don’t use an electric drill/screwdriver” about 20 times in the catalog type instruction manual and detailed to hell lol
Awesome video man 😂
You're gonna have carpal tunnel syndrome if you do all those screws by hand!
I think these are good if you're realllllly space limited but I'll take the 3 separate machines just to not have to undo those 20+ bed screws. Jack of all trades master of none
RTFM dude! I agree with poka-yoke but paying attention goes a long way too.
I got the same setup, plus some extras. It does everything I need it to do. My only real complaint is that it's slow, and I thought that 2 years ago when I bought it, before all the high speed printers hit the market.
Ok, this is why I subscribed. Straight to the point
I don't think there's a 3d printer IN THE WORLD that could STAND UP to Nathan's common-sense testing. Not ONE! But I'm sure there are plenty of printer makers that think their machine can "take it? The question is: Are they willing to put their 3D Printers where their hopes and dreams are? Of course, all of them will be wanted Nathan's SUPREME 3D Printer AWARD. It's a solid gold colored 3d print in PLA of Nathan holding the WINNING PRINTER high above his head! Every company wants the award. They want the accolades! The want the International Publicity! But none of them are ready for what Nathan Builds Robots can dish out: super common-sense analysis of every single aspect of their printers. As he digs in, and deconstructs their printers, the raw underbellies of all of them will be revealed! But they're still coming. They're still sending him their printers. All of them are trying, and Nathan's feeling like he's going to break something in the process!
Looking forward to your review on their updated Artisan version now shipping around the world.
Doubt I’m getting one to review.
Should be called Boltmaker
Or… crapmaker, lol
I appreciate this review. Either it being user error or missed manufacturing possibilities, these are things your average user will encounter.
And it's a good counterweight to all the reviewers that blow it out their ass because they received the machine for free.
I've been looking at the A350T because it seems to do 3D printing well but also can do some simple/easy CnC milling and maybe some laser cutting/engraving. I would love to get 3 separate machines that excel at it but I simply don't have the space to stack them all, as long as the 3D printing is fine I can live with the 4-5x cost price and less performance of the laser/mill cutting.
I shit on it even though I got it for free. All these RUclipsrs are working on building relationships with any company that will give them machines or money,m. It’s the way the world goes round.
Jack of all trades master of none me thinks.
Ridiculous amount of screws for the bed, like you said, snapmaker. I think everything should be tool less for easy swapping.
We need some Floppytron G-Code music.
Some nice design improvement insight but that readjustment of axes while machine being on was painfull to watch :D (and that printhead dissasembly too)
It sounds good right? the Swiss Army knife of 3d printers?
What a disaster.
I hear ppl complaining about the proprietary tech in the Bambulabs printer. I personally thing proprietary parts on something that breaks down as often as a 3D printer is an awful idea. However, at least you get performance with the bambu. Here all you get is… disappointment.
New video!!!!
The important question is "does it bounce?" 🤔🤔🤔
You really don´t seem like someone who should be testing machines and making videos about it.
You ramble about not liking that the powersupply being externally but fail to mension that this thing has an option for an enclosure wich makes it necessary to have the powersupply external. There are countrys in wich you actually can´t get a snapmaker without it due to legal issues in therms of laser safety. A powersupply in the enclosure would for shure not last verry long when printing due to the temps or the dust when milling.
You complain aboout the buiding process and how it´s confusing with one of the best building guides out there. It´s showing exactly where every screw goes and wich oreantation stuff has to be mounted in. If you don´t even care enough to read a manual on your 1400 bucks machine you should probably just not even get one in the first place.
You turn up the print speed to 500% and then complain about the underextrusion wich makes me think that you already know your conclusion on this machine and are just searching for stuff to show of as bad. You know there is a thing called maximum flowrate wich a hotend is just physically not capable of exceeding. This is not advertised as a fast printer and it isn´t meant to do so. Its like buying a honda civic and complaining about loosing control at 400km/h. And then you draw your conclusion on the machines printing capabilitys based on on print.... that you speed up by 500%...........
And then you explain that you got a 3 in 1 machine but will treat it just as a 3d printer because you are not interested in the other functions and proceed to compare it to a random 3D printer that is in no way a good or reasonable comparison to this machine. You compare a race car to an suv, does´t work or is resonable to do. If you know you are not interested in the 2 other functions why did you get the A series model?
I have an A350 myself an i agree on some points you made in this video, for example the issue where the filament dropps from the spool when the printer is homing is an issue that is really anyoying, like the messy cables hanging from the side. The 22 screws required is also something i can see being anyoing, however me being someone who works in mechanical engineering, i know that this probably is for the better to prevent the heater pcb from warping and deforming due to the heat during printing, still something they could have figured out a quick release for.
But in the end you just come across as someone who genuinely doesn´t care about making a good review, doesn´t inform himself properly on the stuff he is reviewing, drawing quick conclusions or not even giving it a try in the first place and then making completly senseless, baseless comparisons that don´t make sense.
Hard agree. I generally love this channel, but this review just isn't it.
Yeah it was the speed that caused the underextrusion not the WRONG esteps from the manufacturer. Even 22 fasteners wouldn't work in keeping that flat on the contrary. If the heater plate can deform so much it will be wavy and under a lot of stress. Even though it is legal to get the laser without proper protection the manufacturer shouldn't sell the laser without it. They play with the health of uninformed users to make a buck.
He was talking about underextrusion BEFORE he upped the speed. And other people have complained about it. Overpriced turd is overpriced turd, the fact he goes through the trouble of continuing to try and make it work well, and points out the myriad problems as he finds them means he's actually doing a thorough review. It's loud and incredibly overpriced. The poor assembly and ridiculous amount of work that goes into changing mode just seal the tomb. It doesn't belong in a Bambu era.
An easy fix would be to permanently mount the bed to a plate, then use 4 screws to attach that sandwich to the moving carriage.
Easy fix for underextrusion is to ship the machine with the correct ESteps per mm after it being a known issue for 3 years.
Easy fix for filament getting caught is to install a guide, change how the machine homes itself, or relocate the filament holder.
This machine is full of low hanging fruit for improvements, if they aren’t going to put in the effort to polish their design, I’m not going to put in the effort to polish a turd.
I agree that I’ve been harsh on this machine, but as a reviewer and critic of 3d printers, I think I would be remiss in my duties if I give anyone the impression this would be a good choice as their first 3D printer. Way too expensive, and I find the artillery quite comparable. It’s got a similar build volume and feature set as a 3D printer.
The enclosure is even more necessary on this machine than other lasers I have seen. It fires the laser straight down into the bed, which is studded with shiny chrome screws. You couldn’t make it more of a hazard if you tried.
Given the massive aluminum base, they could sink a ton of heat into it, to the point where the whole thing might be able to be cooled passively. That means no fans, no problems with dust.
However, I will completely agree with you that I put it together wrong despite having instructions, and that I don’t care about making a “good” (positive) review.
I really do appreciate the comments and discussion, I know people will disagree on things at times, but this is all just one man’s opinion. Not everyone has to, or should, agree!
This machine would drive me crazy.
21:29 Hope you dont change wheels while driving car and then complaining about car design
Nah I'll let the mechanic do that. Don't want to get my fingers greasy.
Is this the one that you let fall on the floor?
I didn't let it fall on the floor, gravity forced it to the floor and I was unable to stop it.
@@NathanBuildsRobots potato, potahtoe
@@NathanBuildsRobots hahahaha 🤩🤩
Hey nathan, I fucked up my hurakan microprobe by printing too fast, the pin screwed itself out the probe enough to ram into the print and now its broken
Sorry to hear that. It is a new design, bound to be some growing pains as they start up production. They should offer to send you a replacement, if not, you might want to come up with a CR-Touch or BL-Touch mount instead
@@NathanBuildsRobots Im sure the voron I build for my birthday will have less issues because It doest have a warped china bed, no probe that unscrews itself and other design flaws that happen when you let a marketing team design a printer. Just quality components.
@@NathanBuildsRobots also, nice video as always.
Maybe add a little blue threadlock when you get your replacement.
When you say unscrew, do you mean the screws come loose and it comes off, or the probe creeps out and then gets hit?
have you tried using a ceramic FDM filament ?Also did you try the metal filament ? I wanted to buy one but skeptical on its practicality .(Didnt want to buy it unless its reliable )
filament with ceramic and metal additives sound iffy. If the granules are clumped up, they can cause nozzle clogs. Also the filament becomes more brittle the more stuff you add to it, so its a little more difficult to handle. It really depends on the application, I doubt you need ceramic or metal additives unless you have some kind of crazy application. I guess they could look cool too.
Carbon fiber is the "best" additive IMO.
@@NathanBuildsRobots thanks bro .Is it possible to 3d print a ceramic rc jet engine ? That was my main reason to post its's the ones i see made of metal sell for 3-4000 euro.
@@crewneckdeath6801 Depends on how complex. Do you mean a rocket engine or jet engine? Jets have a lot of small blades that have to be made of thin metal, 3D printing is not the best at making thin features because the granularity/resolution ends up being an issue when printing under 1mm thick. Also things warp quite significantly. That said, it could be done, it just wouldn't be the most efficient jet in the world.
@@NathanBuildsRobots thank you for clearing my suspicion and doubts .Have a great day.
A lot of ambitious ideas and sleek design, but poor execution. Great review as always.
Kind of like the Microsoft surface lineup. Thanks L
HaHa. Quit sugar coating everything Nathan. Tell us how you really feel!
Sorry, hope you weren’t looking at Snapmaker as a Perfect First Layer sponsor 🤐
Hi Nathan! Id like to hear your opinion on the flsun v400. is it any good? I thought about buying one. Greetings from germany.
I have asked for one, but they have not sent me one. Unfortunately I can't afford to buy one at this time.
They offered me like a 10% discount actually... Lol
@@NathanBuildsRobots thx for your reply. Keep it up❤️👌🏼
I would never buy a bed slinger these days and compared to a bamboo price wise this thing is DOA!
Nothing wrong with bedslingers IMO, still what most of the best value options use. But this isn’t exactly a “value” printer
These linear actuators use ballscrews (at least that's what was shown on one of the teardown videos), not belts, so I seriously doubt this can get close to true 10K accel. I also do NOT like the minimalistic heatblock. Looks like that will definitely cause the thermistor (at the same side as the heater compared to the nozzle) to report a higher temperature than the nozzle is actually seeing. Perhaps that is part of the cause of the underextrusion you were getting. So I think this is better suited as a small CNC than as a 3d printer.
"Indicates insufficient part cooling"...after you F'ed with the fan and literally tried disassembling while it was printing. Do better
If nothing will break ,or break hard, they will not make money 😉
TIL poka-yoke