Ford 7.3 Powerstroke Build More Boost For FREE!!!
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- Опубликовано: 2 июн 2020
- A quick walkthrough on how to adjust your turbo wastegate to make it build most boost for free.
KC Turbos:
My KC300X Turbo: kcturbos.com/collections/7-3-...
S300 Balance Assembly: kcturbos.com/collections/7-3-...
360* Rebuild Kit: kcturbos.com/collections/7-3-...
Performance Upgrades:
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S&B Intake: amzn.to/2PdVb63
CNC Lines: cncfab.us/i-30497598-cnc-fabr...
Hydra Chip: 1023diesel.com/php-hydra-cust...
AIH Delete Plug: www.riffraffdiesel.com/aih-de...
4" Exhaust: amzn.to/2VItdjR
CNC Oil Crossover: cncfab.us/i-30497596-cnc-fabr...
Edge CTS Insight: kcturbos.com/collections/7-3-...
Edge Sensor Bundle: kcturbos.com/collections/7-3-...
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EGT probe: amzn.to/2EsHF9O
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CNC Oil Lines: kcturbos.com/collections/7-3-...
RiffRaff CAC Boots: kcturbos.com/collections/7-3-...
RiffRaff Plenum Inserts: kcturbos.com/collections/7-3-...
Fuel System:
CNC 4 line kit: kcturbos.com/collections/7-3-...
CNC Fuel bowl delete block: cncfab.us/i-30497604-cnc-fabr...
Airdog 165: kcturbos.com/collections/7-3-...
Fuel Pressure Regulator: amzn.to/2Y6Lz17
Fuel Tank Sump: amzn.to/2M7JjnE
Stage 1 Injectors: www.riffraffdiesel.com/allian...
Cosmetics:
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Music:
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A great replacement for the original boost actuator clip is a 3/16 E-clip. Sometimes they are called C- clips but the 3/16 diameter is the exact same size as the Ford spring clip. You can readily find these at the hardware store in the bolt and fastener area. I actually went to the hardware store today and took some pictures of the E-clips but I couldn't load them into the comments. But here in central Oklahoma these clips cost 23 cents each. So it would pay to have two or three on hand before starting your turbo project. I hope this helps someone out of a jam sometime. Bob.
Great information man!
Thanks 👍 now we know
Pro tip: stuff rags behind the turbo and go slow with that clip if your doing this inside the truck. Promise you will never loose it 👍🏼
That clip you inserted after the thing went flying. Lol
there called jesus christ clips because that`s what u yell every time they go sailing into the shit abyss
Brother, I’m am so glad I found your page!
These 7.3 videos are great, and have helped me so much with my 02 F-350.
Dude... that screaming beaver after the c-clip launched was EXACTLY how I feel when that happens!!!!!
haha I thought it was pretty accurate
Yeah , I laughed my ass off
That is actually a marmot, not a beaver.
I call them the aww Sh#t clip
And they will scare the hell out of you when they start screaming like that, if you're not expecting it! @akquicksilver
July 2024. Man I want a dodge but just dropped to 4K to repair my Dino 7.3. I’m sure a couple of small mods like this will bring it back to life
I want it!!!!!!!!!! I’ve been following you for a long time and definitely inspired by your videos. I have a 1999 f250 7.3 and I absolutely love it! Your an inspiration to all of us! 🙏
Had me dying on the flying clip!!! Man thanks for this video. You help us out so much and we thank you for that!!!
I’m still amazed I found it haha
Love what your doing. Keep it up brother 😉
Awesome update! This should be a fun Saturday project!
Definitely!
Great video, will definitely be doing this on my rig!
Sir, I am in awe of your fortitude and you are an example to the rest of us. I've subscribed and will continue to watch.
I appreciate it
Good Video, short and to the point.
Every time I receive a notification for one of your videos It makes my day, I learn a lot about my truck and upgrades to do to it. Keep up the good work👍
I really really appreciate it man!
@@LivingOnWheels So I'm a retiring master craftsman and I'm in the process of selling my home to go RV permanently I hope. I am mechanically inclined and work on my own motorcycle and others as well. This, I'll be dragging a toy hauler and I want a 7.3, I think. Strong engines. Especially modded up. I've found a few low mileage trucks out there. Any advice other than more air in and more out as free boost adjust ? Have you ever published a list of parts that you shouldn't leave home with out ?
I lost it when the clip flew off. great content.🤣
I installed the banks big head waste gate on my 03 7.3 with the turbo in. I was successful but that little pin was a bitch magnetizing is a great idea I did that and it helped tremendously. I ended up scratching the hell out of my arms. I looked like I got in a fight with a cat but I did it successfully. boost is holding at 24 psi for up to 10 seconds my trucks a rocket now.
Man that sounds good. Need to watch this.that was funny hunting with a magnet. I'll take it.
You should have done a sample pressure test of 5-10psi to show it wasn't opening until you go higher psi.
Much respect for you.
I’ll be doing that also, thanks for the great videos!
Links in the description haha
way cool video dude. great boost trick
Your channel has been a great resource as I start the build of my new to me 2000 7.3 excursion. Thanks for the videos.
Lucky dog. I'd love one of those
I did that upgrade an I was pleasantly pleased
Glad to hear that man!
Great video man love the content
Appreciate it!
You make this re build look so easy. Hoping to enter for a chance to win this turbo.
Great video
I have a 1999 and I look forward to the up grades you’ve been sharing
Very cool bro! I thought about doing this mod and then also thought about replacing my wast gate with the turbo master waste gate, but decided I’ll just replace everything with the KC 300. Lol
Planning on getting the KC when I hit 5k subs🤘🏻
Nice man! I can say without a doubt, I love my KC300!!!
I died like the beaver. Lmao. Good video young man.
I appreciate. I’m still amazed I found that thing haha
i just welded the waste gate shut on mine and threw in a $20 wicked wheel with a fresh cheapo rebuild kit. runs way better then it used to by far
How is your truck running after 5 months now?
Awesome video as always! I wish you would of tried to use 5/10 psi after you made the adjustment to the rod so we could see if it would make at all after the adjustment. However just my opinion, and as always great video and great info. Thank you for your videos I have an 03 7.3 and have used your videos quite a bit.
I thought exactly the same thing. Wanted to see that 5 to 10 p.s.i. no longer was capable of activating it.
Thanks Joe for another educational video. Will soon be placing order to Riffraff for new uppipes and injectors and will consider doing this mod when things are torn apart
Fish-On
My turbo going out on my diesel rite now . And I need it bad!! Hope to win love your channel !!
If you loose the e clip on the waste gate, a old spark plug wire tip that snaps on to the plug tip works great....
Why didn't I see this sooner!!! I just put my turbo back in this afternoon 😭
You'll get more top end boost & less egt with a non waste gated van housing but you will loose a slight amount of low end.
Отличная идея!
Doing this on the bench, not bad. Doing this lying on the fender reaching into the back of the compartment, not so much. I would think having several clips on hand would be a good idea.
Your timing with this is impeccable. Thank you. In the past 2 days I've ordered $2000.00 worth of parts. Some of which is the vac lines and a new wastegate actuator/pump. Knowing I wanted more boost I ordered a 33psi at the recommendations of another youtuber. When he testsd his the actual working psi was cut in half and he only seen a minimal gain in his actual boost. My fear was it would be to high of a psi for my stock turbo and cause damage. If you have time what is your thoughts. They also have a 22psi that I almost bought. I'm looking for reliable longevity. My stock wastegate is not opening at all. Thank you again for the great videos
Would that other RUclipsd be FixitNick?? I know a lot of people have pushed mid to high 20s on their stock turbos consistently. My opinion and what seems to be the general consensus is that it will do it but doing it all the time will be reducing the life of the stock turbo. Honestly though you’d have to be driving the truck pretty hard to constantly be seeing that much boost. I think you’d be fine with the heavier waste gate and if you want you could probably loosen it up a little.
@@LivingOnWheels to lighen it up i would just back off the threaded portion opposite your process in this vid? Q2, your stock wastegate started moving at 5psi or so. When replacing the stock wastegate is that the psi I would I'm looking for. I can't find anything that low?
@@LivingOnWheels and yes Fixit Nick was one of the vids i watch about the wastegate
Yes, to lighten it up just back off the threads a little. I would not set it back to stock otherwise there is no point in upgrading. Having your boost be able to get up around 20-25 won’t cause a problem and the truck will drive better.
Always great videos!! know this is a oldie now but im sure what you did didnt change just the tension but also shortened the overall distance that the actuator throws so when at high boost the waste gate wont be able to open fully
Exactly right, I was a bit concerned for what that boost tops at when really on it.
Good info
I use to be a truck driver and use to just zip tie the air line so it wouldn't open. Even at that never noticed any real difference.
My stock wastegate actuator was making the boost psi over 10 jump before I did this.
Seriously, without changing the spring that actuator is going to move at the same psi every time. You are manually changing the tension on it and how far it opens that is it.. I get it though.. This trick works well diesels it's pretty spot on.. But with gas cars not so much.. Your ECU will over ride and adjust the opposite way to compensate on all the newer cars, or you may blow your turbo or engine. If you have a car and want to make more boost take her to a DYNO and a Good Tuner. But I get it this is for Diesel trucks and does work good.. Nice vid though I have spun mine 2 times.. I am probably going to change out my stock for a Turbo Smart stock replacement they make for my car but I'm going to stick with the same wastegate PSI though. I'm on a Tune. Nice vid..
I'll do this one
You were standing up!!?!! retrieving the clip!?! Always enjoy your efforts.
Haha yeah. I can stand for very short durations.
What is it like driving with it turned up like this? Does it increase fuel economy at all?
Your videos are some of my favorites. I've been watching them non-stop since I heard about your channel from FixItNick.
More boost equals more fuel, so no it wouldn’t help economy. Keep boost readings low for fuel economy
The early 99 has a different wastegate actuator than the late 99- 2003. I had a Banks Bighead on my 2000 F250. With a DP- Tuner set at 80 economy I could get 28- 30 psi of boost. I also had a Jobe performance intake. I am doing away with the DP- Tuner and installing a hydra. Going to a 38r turbo with the Banks Bighead installed made a big difference on mid to top end power. I would have bought a KC turbo but they were not in business back then.
38R is still a great upgrade. I’m sure you’ll be happy!
@@LivingOnWheels I like the 38r turbo. It was the best upgrade when I bought it at the time for a drop in turbo. The only thing is it doesn't spool good on stock tune.
Was this an early 99?
@@kirkkirkham7538 mine is a 2000. Living on Wheels was a 2000 also.
That's why those clips are dubbed "jesus clips" 🤣🤣. Appreciate your knowledge. Getting ready to change out my waste gate and lines.
You have to think of the back pressure being one-to-one with boost pressure up until about 30 psi you have the same back pressure trying to open the wastegate in the turbine housing and the diaphragm is not big enough to overcome the back pressure at about 10 psi so you're not going to gain that much psi
I would love for you to explain that with more examples! Probably a most overlooked concept that (most) people watching this video don't recognize, (Myself included). I THINK I understand what you are saying as, Just increasing the boost actuated can spring pressure is NOT going to (delay) the waste gate from opening because there is also the Exhaust Back Pressure actuating on the unit? BUT I'm not really sure of or if there might actually be a benefit of increasing this (cans) earliest activation. I mean he has demonstrated that it starts to cause an opening at about 5 to 10 p.s.i. Are you saying that amount of opening is happening anyway as a result of EBP? Is it not possible that under different conditions the benefit of the increased spring pressure might help for quicker spool up? Is there higher or lower EBP when you are sitting at idle. Is the waste gate being held open at that time just a bit? What happens when you floor it from idle? Is there a momentary drop or increase in EBP? Does this higher (can activated spring) allow the waste gate to remain closed in conditions like this for some amount of extra time that may well indeed show a better spool up vs. it's current OEM adjustment? This 1:1 ratio you speak of at up to 30 p.s.i. I REALLY wish you (or anyone) could expand upon that!!!!
Hahaha! That goofy ground hog or whatever was hilarious.
Haha thank you. I thought it was fitting
Hello Joe! I hate getting stuck staring at my phone! I am personally against it! With my kids, etc.! It’s very rare that I find something that will grab me and hold me! If I had time, I would watch all your videos! You are a natural! I envy all you guys that have your own tools and garage I live in apartment in San Diego. I wish I had a place to work on my 73.
OK to the problem. It was late Thursday night. I realized I had a hole inside my cold intercooler tube. I had to do a quick fix. I put some self tappers through a thick piece of aluminum to cover the hole and then wrapped it.!
I’m sorry so long I will get to the point.! I think I messed up. I did not reach in there and knock any aluminum shavings off of the screws. Mind you this is only temporary. I just want to know what’s going on with my turbo. It’s whining . Is there a piece of metal stuck or is it actually going out. I wish I could send you a video. Anyway, tell me what you think. Keep in mind I did not reach in there and scrape off any metal shavings. Is this bad? Are they going down into my engine?. Thank you so much Joe I really appreciate your time! Keep on shining brother.
NICE VIDEO AGAIN.....UNFORTUNATELY.....I AM NOT ON INSTAGRAM.....SO I CANNOT WIN THE TURBO.....BUT KEEP THE VIDEOS COMING.....
They tuned these down as much as they could get away with. Not shocked at all the waste gate opens at 5psi
My instructor at Diesel school called them G-clips! Gee where the hell did that go!
Hahaha that’s pretty good! I’ll be using that again at some point
The springs in the stock wastegate like to blow open around 13psi. I think they take 24 psi to go into limp mode on a stock pcm.
Non related rear hub bearings inners with oil slingers both sides have a spring around oil slinger is this normal or did both springs from both seals just happen let loose and end perfectly in place
You mentioned that you don't understand why board set these turbos up so light. In my experience and I believe they do that for the longevity of the engine
GO !!!!!! OSU I see it..... :)
Let's keep college sports out of these conversations! GEAUX TIGERS! Lol
nice
Those darn clips.
Getcha every time!
I need that
Does this work noticeably?
Love this. What if we just disconnected the wastegate hose, the red one. Wouldn't that just turn off the waste gate from actuating? If so, is that not okay?
Lots of people have done it. Doesn’t completely stop it because it still has the exhaust pressure that will open it up. It does keep it closed longer though.
after all your fuel work, what is fuel milage ?
yeah that's basically upping the preload on a stock waste gate, if memory serves me right the universal standard is 6 full turns for stock preload or was it 6 half turn I can't remember been a while since I did my research.... either way, it will make more boost faster with more preload
Yup. Pretty simple but effective
Has alot to do with total compression, ie head gasket, engine life! Like "chipping", I can only guess you'll pay later?
What if you remove the waste gate hose
I only lost 3 c clips trying to put it back on in the truck.
I'm not so sure this mod does what people think it does.
Shortening that rod, requires it to be extended out farther in order to re-connect it to the gate stud. With the rod now pre-extended, isn't that partially opening that side of the actuator mechanism, when it would normally be fully closed/retracted? And now the arm does not have the full range that it once did as set from factory, since it now has a shorter reach, so the wastegate will not fully open when the time comes.
Pretty sure those actuators are fixed at a set PSI internally, and cannot be changed simply by adding a preload on the extended arm.
From what I understand the rod is pre extended to where it would be at let's say 10psi so there's more space for the pressurized air to act on the diaphram to expand onto without acting on the rod. Basically the pressurized air has a larger space to fill ie more pressure before the rod moves.
Nope had a guy from Cummins racing do my 12 valve Cummins. Shortening the rod definitely helps.
Good news
I just got a 02, 7.3 psd. Any tips on that nice turbo sound at start up. I heard of foil delete, I'm new to this. Thank you very much.
Foil delete won’t help with that. Best bet is strait piping it. Beyond that you’re looking at a new compressor wheel or new turbo. These trucks aren’t known for super loud turbos on startup though
@@LivingOnWheels one more question. I saw the inside of the ebpv and it looks like a flapper that closes and opens. During high idle warm up, does it close that exhaust exit.
Pretty simple but a great little upgrade Thanks for the info and did you ever test it out on a gauge to see what it finally ended up with
I did not. It was given away to a subscriber and I haven’t received any update on it. Which I assume means it’s still performing well haha
Does the kc make it sound better because I have a 1999.5 and I’m prolly gonna do the rebuild/ balancing thing and try it out but thanks
I can only speak for the KC turbo I ran but it sounded fantastic. I imagine this would also sound great
Hello there,
I hope you can help me out. I want to know what do I need to do in order to gain more boost on my 2000 excursion 7.3L? Everything is custom, I don’t have any modifications to the engine, turbo or transmission. I’m new with Diesel engine so I don’t know what parts do I need to upgrade to get more boost on the turbo. Thanks for your videos they’re very informative
Well a start is making sure you don’t have any boost leaks. First step up would be upgrading or tightening your actuator. Beyond that it’s either upgrading your stock turbo or buying a whole new turbo. It all kinda depends on what your end goals are.
Can anyone confirm enough travel remains to adequately regulate high Boost?
You the luckiest person I ever met anyone else that baby would be gone
In this case I was haha
What are symptoms of a bad wastegate actuator? My 95' 7.3 is surging and struggling to get speed before it shifts in almost all gears. When it warms up its somewhat fine.
Sounds like a damaged
Man that made me laugh so hard
Did you pick a winner yet!!😳😳
Sounds good but i can’t see where this will work when you have the same waste gate pressure spring in it. So no change.
It works because most springs are not constant tension or pressure springs. The more you tighten that rod the more force is required to pull the spring. Think about a trampoline spring the farther it’s stretched the more force is required.
Whats the max PSI you can adjust to without causing damage or having a negative effect?
The common consensus seems to be that the stock turbo doesn’t like going about 25 psi much. Personally I’d try to keep the limit around there.
Question for ya new to diesel have 2002 7.3 bought ts-6 chip s&b cold air intake this adjustment you made on turbo would that affect tuning in any way. Anyone can do this regardless if all stock chipped ect
No need to worry about tuning with it. You may throw an overboost code if you hit 25psi but that not really a problem. Can get a boost fooler if it bothers you.
Hey I’m a little late to this video but I have a 99.5 7.3 with only a straight pipe nothing done in the engine bay. If I set this around where you set the waste gate would it still not decrease the longevity of the turbo or would I be burning it up pretty quick?
What I would say and what most other say is that you should try not to make a habit of consistently pushing the stock turbo over 25psi. That being said, if you dont have a boost fooler you wont be able to do that anyways. so doing this will just help with quicker spool up on the bottom end. Essentially I'd say you dont have to worry about this reducing turbo life much
@@LivingOnWheels thanks for responding so quick I think I’ll try and get this done soon then. Thanks for the help!
Sounds like bad fuel maybe?
What would be a good upgrade to replace the original turbo with on a stock 99 7.3?
Good to know if it’s an E99 or L99. Either way though i think KC turbos is the best option out there for drop in replacements.
I have a friend who has a s10 with 2 of these that came off a power stroke 7.3 on his LS motor he is building on a small small budget will these work for him iv seen articles with conflicting info i have read you need a to lower oil pressure going in because it will blow a seal on the cold air side and suck oil into the motor is it possible to use these on a gasoline engine
He is on a small budget thanks in advance
Im honestly not sure. From what I see the LS actually has lower oil pressure than the powerstroke. So I don't think there would be an issue blowing out seals.
You know you can turn the shaft with vice grips without removing the actuator right?
I wasn’t sure if that would mess with the internal diagram if spring but if not then that might be the best way to do it 👍🏻
How exactly does the psi in the chamber change with you shorten the rod? The rod got shorter not that the psi changed, the difference is in the Valve
Shortening the rod preloads the spring more. Causing it to require a higher initial pressure before it starts to actuate. Hookes Law
Just out of curiosity if I put a hydra tune on my truck will it do anything with the stock wastegate or would I still need to tighten up the wastegate?
The wastegate is all mechanical so the tune won’t effect it at all.
@@LivingOnWheels is this a possible improvement compatible with a hydra tuner?
Is the shaft hollow? If not, it appears as though you are just adjusting the rod length not spring tension.. Please explain.
I’m not sure which shaft you are talking about. By shortening the rod, it’s increasing tension on the spring that holds the wastegate shut.
What’s your input on Seaform in the crank case
Im definitely not the best person to ask on this subject because I don't have enough experience with it. That being said, in my opinion, I dont think its a good idea on heui injector systems. I would be more inclined to do so on say a 12 valve or something similar.
A better replacement for that clip is the retaining clip off of a bike chain master link. Fits perfect and gives you something to grab. even better use a pair of needle nose vice grips to put it on .
Good to know 👍🏻
I have a 1999 7.3 250 after hot falls on its face changed everything I think the waist gate is stuck will it make it run like that
I don’t think it would. Unless it’s sticking open? Have you tried unplugging your back pressure valve?
lmao at the beaver yell
Felt fitting haha
I like this video but why did you sell your 250?
Because I was ready for a change.
Hey the beaver just made me subscribe to your channel 😭😭😭
that is NOT a beaver
I did this but know i hear a buzzing noise when accelerating
can you purchase a new waste gate the work on a higher psi
Yes, I believe Banks makes one.
So I’m not sure if you adjusting the arm will increase the amount of pressure it takes to move the wastegate. All you’re doing is adjusting the movement of the arm making it have to move farther in order to dump the boost.
Still love the videos dude ! You are full of knowledge and bring great videos along with it
I could have explained it better. You are correct with the actuator off tightening the rod does nothing. It's when it connected back up that it is actually holding more tension on the spring which is why it takes more pressure to overcome it.
@@LivingOnWheels Love your videos, but was just about to comment on this fact. Without the actuator arm connected, there is no way to tell how much pressure you are truly applying. I suggest an update as this could allow someone to attempt adjusting to 20psi “on the bench” and have no idea where their true setting is.
Wish I could get to half of the mods you have done. Keep on trucking.
@@chubracing it preloads the spring. Let's say it's a 10 inch lbs spring. 10 lbs moves it an inch. 20 lbs moves it the second inch. So if it has 1 inch of preload now it's 20 lbs to get it moved
Is it a bad idea to do this without compressed air? I don't really have good access to an air compressor. Will it be ok if I just do 8 turns? I have heard people have problems with snapping the rod. Have you heard this too? id just hate to break something since this truck is my baby and I don't have extra money to be spending. I'm just being paranoid I suppose. I watched your video about the best gauge setup for these trucks and I love the idea of the digital gauge. I was just wondering if this is still a safe modification if I don't have gauges to watch for overboost so I do not damage the turbo. Also I'm not sure if you already have a video on it or if you have had any problems with this but my truck when it shifts into 3rd i believe maybe second gear if I don't lay off the gas pedal it slams into the next gear and makes it seem like the transmission is going to fall out of the bottom of the truck. My dad handed me down the truck and says it has been happening almost since he bought the truck new off the lot in 2000 or late '99 I suppose. It really scares me when it happens because I've heard this could be a sign of the transmission going out. Sorry I am asking so many questions I'm just trying to learn and absorb as much knowledge as possible. Thank you, also as usual great video.
It wouldn’t hurt anything to turn it in a few turns. A stock truck won’t hit high enough boost levels to damage the turbo. In your shoes my first priority would be saving up for gauges of some sort. Get to know your truck, what’s normal and what’s not. Then you can start trying to make improvements. Are you running a chip or tuner? The trans thing sounds like high line pressure
@@LivingOnWheels I am not running a chip or tuner at the moment. I have been looking into the PHP ever since I saw your video. Would the gauges be a better option to start with before a tuner? I really like the Edge cts for the reason that I will be able to see more info about the truck. Is it hard to setup? I prefer doing work myself rather than having someone else do it. Are there any good videos or places I can find info about the high line pressure?
I also notice there are a lot of different options and generations of the Edge CTS insight. Which one would you recommend looking into buying?
Yes I would recommend gauges before a tuner. That way you can get to know your truck and will be able to see how the tuner effects things. The edge CTS is super easy to install. Literally just plug it into the OBD 2 port and run through the device startup sequence. Im honestly not sure on the trans. Its hard to say without feeling it in person and its been so long since if been in a stock truck that I cant really give great input on that.
@@LivingOnWheels Thank you for all your help I really appreciate it, So the regular edge CTS would be my best option? or is there another model that would be better? I see that there is a CTS2 for $379. But the price varies a lot and I'm not sure why. I am also seeing the insight pro which is much more expensive.