AFM DOD Delete Part 5 - Cam and Head Install and Engine Assembly 5.3L L83 6.2L L86 V8
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- Опубликовано: 4 окт 2024
- This is the fifth part of a multi part series where we will be fully deleting the Active Fuel Management (AFM) / Displacement on Demand (DOD) system from my 2014 Silverado with the 5.3L L83 motor. This process is the same for most Silverados, Sierras, Tahoes, Yukons, and Suburbans made after 2006.
In this video we are showing how to reassemble the L83 5.3L motor and this process should be very similar to the L86 6.2L. This process will directly apply to the 2014 - 2018 Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra models.
In part six of this series we will be showing how to reinstall the motor back in the truck and installing the remaining components on the motor such as the harmonic balancer, intake, and accessories.
👉🏼 LINKS TO PURCHASE TOOLS & PARTS FEATURED BELOW👈🏼
#GPIPerformance #DODDelete #AFMDelete
⚠️Try anything shown in this video at your own risk ⚠️
Associated Videos - AFM DOD Delete Series
*********************************************
Pt 1 - Baseline Dyno: • AFM Delete Part 1 - Wh...
Pt 2 - What Parts Do You Need • AFM DOD Delete Part 2 ...
Pt 3 - Engine Removal: • AFM DOD Delete Part 3 ...
Pt 4 - Engine TearDown: • AFM DOD Delete Part 4 ...
Pt 5 - Installing New Parts: • AFM DOD Delete Part 5 ...
5A - Cam Phaser Install: • AFM DOD Delete - How t...
5B - Trunnion Upgrade: • How To Upgrade GM Trun...
5C - Lashing HP Fuel Pump: • How To Properly Lash H...
5D - Injector Seals • High Pressure Fuel Inj...
Pt 6 - Reinstalling Engine: • AFM DOD Delete Part 6 ...
Pt 7 - Tuning and Dyno Run:
Pt 8 - Installing Intake Manifold, TB, and Air Intake:
Pt 9 - Tuning and Final Dyno Run:
Epilogue AFM/Delete Gone Wrong :
Terrible Noises: • Terrible Engine Noises...
Time for a New Motor: • DOD / AFM Delete Gone ...
GPI Saves the Day: • AFM Delete GONE WRONG ...
Lessons Learned: • AFM Delete GONE WRONG ...
Useful Write-Ups and Videos that we referenced in creating this series:
Tahoe DOD Delete Video Series: • DOD Delete kit using t...
Camaro DOD Delete Write Up: www.camaro6.co...
Corvette DOD Delete Write Up: www.corvettefo...
🔩Parts (Affiliate Links)
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For the parts needed to delete AFM and add some more power, check out part 2 of this video series: • AFM DOD Delete Part 2 ...
Other parts shown in this video are below:
Fuel Injector 12668390: amzn.to/2P22wWI
Fuel Rail Left Side 12687244:
Fuel Rail Right Side 12685360: amzn.to/3oUnNBl
HP Fuel Line 12677004: amzn.to/2XrsHf8
Timing Chain 12646387: amzn.to/2L4GmS1
Timing Chain Tensioner 12630107: amzn.to/39Hone6
ACDelco 41-114 Spark Plugs (x8): amzn.to/2vFrggX
ARP Exhaust Manifold Bolts 134-1104: amzn.to/2SzZWJN
ARP Head Bolts:
Additional Gaskets Needed
Oil Pan Port Seal (x2 ) 12621086: amzn.to/2vFpYm7
Oil Pump / Front Oil Pan Seal 12666993: amzn.to/325JzHY
VLOM (Oil Valley Cover Plate) Gasket:
Valve Cover Gaskets 12619787: amzn.to/2HBmfIK
Exhaust Manifold Gasket (x2) 12657093: amzn.to/39KDaoe
Vacuum Pump Gasket 12639010: amzn.to/3bXZ4FM
Sealers/Lube
RTV:
Thread Sealer: amzn.to/2HzwSMq
Blue Thread Locker: amzn.to/324pMc6
Red Thread Locker: amzn.to/321Ttup
ARP Torque Lube 100-9909: amzn.to/2uWFM3N
Assembly Lube: amzn.to/2OYVm5x
Tools (Affiliate Links)
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The Milwaukee Impact Is a MUST HAVE for this job
Milwaukee MLW2861-20 Mid-Torque Impact Wrench (M18 Fuel 1/2") Tool Only: amzn.to/34k4R48
Milwaukee Impact Full Kit (With Battery): amzn.to/2PD06xq
2000lb Engine Stand with fold-able legs: amzn.to/2R3TJUp
Engine Stand Mounting Bolts: amzn.to/2QXPBW8
Harmonic Balancer Installer Kit: amzn.to/2SUkATU
(used to install the Crank Seal)
Fly Wheel Flex Plate Holder Locking Tool: amzn.to/2PKNOD0 (From the Q&As on the product, it appears this will work with our L83 motors)
Crank Seal Installer: EN-51091
ICT Oil Pump Alignment Tool: amzn.to/2JBD4Ye
Note: modification required
Gasket Remover: amzn.to/3bMhnyh
Plastic Razor Blade / Scraper: amzn.to/37GdxUt
Long Cotton Swabs: amzn.to/3212uUm
Sockets & Wrenches:
Standard (English) Impact Socket Set: amzn.to/35KId7o
Metric Impact Socket Set: amzn.to/2LsZvgh
Standard (English) Size Wrench Set: amzn.to/2SSrgTp
Metric Wrench Set: amzn.to/2AfZn1c
1/4" Torque Wrench: amzn.to/33diIfW
3/8" Torque Wrench: amzn.to/2XcilOY
1/2" Torque Wrench: amzn.to/2CWLiHO
1/2" Breaker Bar: amzn.to/2Ld2ZDr
Spark Plug Socket Kit: amzn.to/2uTJqeA
Jacks and Stands
Esco Jack Stands: amzn.to/3cmAmiO
Esco Floor Jack: amzn.to/3fAIUoA
🎬 Recording equipment (Affiliate Links)
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This is one excellent tutorial. I do not know of any teacher that could have done a better job of the explanation.............very very well done on a critical installation.
Thank you! Much appreciate. We did our best to be as thorough as possible while not making it excessively long
These videos are the definition of “ Thorough “ 👍 Oh and Shout out to the camera guy and editor 👌
Thank you! Glad they have been helpful!
You guys should start a Chevy & GMC Gas Truck Speciality Shop. I’d drive up to 1,200 miles to a shop if I knew they were doing the job with this kind of care, thoroughness and accuracy.
Maybe we will at some point! Trying to stay small for now since it's a side thing. We actually work on bimmers at present but are thinking about future options
The Sundae Drive I’ve been trying to make my Silverado handle like my 530 and 335 I had. 😅
I’ve upgraded the Struts & Shocks and wheels and tinkering with the Sway bars and keep debating on removing the rear leaf blocks but can’t without adding air bags because of the 1,300 + payloads I carry sometimes. I’ve tried the Roadmaster Active Mechanical Suspension, but there’s drawbacks and things about it I don’t like. Most wouldn’t notice but I literally drive this truck 300-800 miles a day ( before this COViD 💩 ) so I notice every little thing, noise, rattle, vibration etc...
I love the way BMWs handle. ( wish they were as reliable and engineered as precise as Lexus, especially pre 2007 ) however the BMWs I had handled like a Cat cornering on Carpet.
I wish Chevy would just go to a quiet Japan precise & quality helical gear drive instead of a timing chain and plastic tensioner.
The Sundae Drive If you guys like Cars & Engines as much as I do this is the best 10 minutes to start your morning, a must watch. A few 2 min videos... I wish BMWs were made like this!
ruclips.net/video/A7MTg402o8w/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/Azd5HaskjT4/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/qrYoFz_P_yU/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/ysIFXLfgNyY/видео.html
Awesome tutorial, I’m building my l83 with some forged pistons and most likely a btr cam here and a few days and there really were no other videos out here with any detail what so ever
Awesome man 👍 perfect timing lol. We saw the same thing when we searched so hopefully this video will help you out!
Came here from your other video with the alignment tool for the oil pump. My Gen V L82 LT only has 200 miles on it so I take it as new. GREAT Information, Thanks.
Awesome! Hope the series helps you out!
Great, great video, very helpful, thanks for taking the time to make it and post it.
I think you made a mistake about that Valley Tray modification. What you touched was NOT the oil delivery system. That was the “PCV” system. The oil delivery system is the vain that houses the oil pressure sensor. Underneath you’ll find a small opening. If you look through that tiny hole you’ll see the screen filter. Tap that little hole and install a set screw with red thread lock. You really should make that correction in the video. If not everyone will be plugging up the PCV system and we all know the results of an engine with internal pressure. Yeah. So you should make a correction.
You are right! I can't believe this wasn't caught before. We'll be fixing and re-ploading. Thanks for the catch!
Kaboom 💥 😅
Can you put a time stamp to what you’re talking about?
That was the PCV on the VLOM that you were pointing to, not the oil delivery...
Bolt LUBRICANT!
For applying RTV silicone I like to use a set of sheet metal folding piers. You can get regular ones, or a vise grip version. This allows you to get ALL of the silicone out of the tube, gives you better control, applies faster, and is easier on your hands. Once I have squeezed out the amount within the piers, I fold over the end of the tube, and squeeze again. It works really well, especially with thicker or colder silicone, or if you need to apply a thin bead.
I use needle nose pliers. Great tip dude.
I use a full sized caulk tube of it. When done, just squeeze out a little dimple. Next use, remove the dimple and good to go for next use. Plus you get 100% control when applying it.
Full or mid size tube in a caulking gun. The Right Stuff RTV Can’t go wrong.
First and foremost these are excellent videos but I just want to point out that in this video and in part 3 you mention that the oil pan does not need to be removed just cheated. In the vehicle with 4x4 you could never cheat it and reseal as there is no gasket just RTV. I have this exact year truck and engine and am in the middle of the AFM delete. You are either pulling the engine or the differential to get the pan off to remove pump. There’s no other way. Keep up the good work guys.
Thanks! And I agree 100% after doing this job. I don't think you could do it any other way.
Great videos. If I may When you cut head bolt make slit all the way town to first thread. I find if you dont you can push whats in there to the bottom if the air gun dont get it.
Good tip. Thanks for sharing!
0:57 Excellent advice. Rationale: If there's enough liquid in a head bolt hole (or any other blind bolt hole for that matter), you will crack the casting when tightening the bolt.
Just an fyi When torquing adding an extension does not changes the torque it changes only if u add a cross foot or a dog bone 🦴 and thanks for the video I’m doing the same mod right now good information thanks.
Thanks for the tip!
"I'm not using any special oil" to soak the lifters as the camera pans to him pouring amsoil's synthetic oil that's good for 12,000 miles or a year, I'd say that's some special oil but that's just me hahaha
😂😂
I think he meant like a special grade or category of oil because it is engine oil. I thought the same thing at first too😂
I thought the same thing lol
First video I watch of yours gonna do this job on a GMC 5.3 soon so just prepping my mind. Thanks for the informative video. I’ll be sure to watch the rest of your vids. Needless to say you got a new subscriber. 🤙🏾
Awesome! Glad to have you here and best of luck!
Nice kept it pretty short and sweet. Very detailed.
Glad you enjoyed it!
@@TheSundaeDrive If you guys ever do a 6.2 swap make sure an post!
Excellent descriptive video. One thing I would have done would be to use some sort of Anti-seize on the manifold bolts. Steel bolts in aluminum threads do not play well together even in the short term.
Yeah not a bad point. I ended up swapping them to studs later on.
Perfect video! I love this series!!!
Thanks!
gm performance tech here. so much time to be saved here. it's ok though. it's for the views
Never mind I found the video, thank you!
Awesome!
You can install the HB to get the front cover seal in its correct orientation, you will still need to verify that the front cover is flush with the bottom of the block.
That's a good point. You can use the old bolt to temporarily install the harmonic balancer and then pull the balancer off again once the cover is installed if you sent ready for it to be on the engine yet
Question I see that you installed the Fuel Pump lifter with the hole to the driver side however when I took mine out the hole was facing the passenger side. I made sure to notate the orientation. Just wondering if it matters which direction its actually point to? Thank you in adance!
From what I can recall, I believe the orientation does not matter
Awesome video finally someone did a video that walks you step by step 1st time doing a cam swap on my 2016 Silverado, any tips
Thanks! We finally got around to making it, have been talking about doing it for a couple years :) Lots of lube, and make sure you check that the new lifters pump up properly if you are swapping them.
one thing to consider with the injectors. if you dont replace all the injectors you have to get a seal kit and install new seals on all the injectors and it requires a special tool to install the seals and "size " them". 2ndly if you are doing injectors on a 6.2L they can have 1 of 3 part #s on the injectors and you cant know that til you pull the injectors , you have to get that part # these are done this way based on flow testing on the 6.2L
good tips! Thank you
I hate that, and then the injectors are back ordered with no ETA 😅😅
This virus is messing up everything for getting parts.
What type of thread sealant did u use for the rocker arm bolts?
Permatex high temp but do not use a lot. Also, this is only needed if there is a hole in the wall of the bolt hole due to the porting process.
I am also in the process of doing my L83. One this to note is that if you remove the fuel injectors you must replace the 2 seals at the end of each injector. And more importantly, you have to use the proper special tool to install each separate seal and to compress the seals before installing it into the head. I don't think just screwing down the fuel rail is going to do it, but maybe it will but I would think you run the risk of damaging one of the seals and then a fuel leak. Remember this engine has 11.0:1 compression and so those injector seals have to keep those gases in there. Hope you don't have any issues. Also I am not 100% sure why there is an alignment tool for the oil pump. I don't think it's for alignment to the pickup but to have it sitting right on the crank. The 2 vanes/gears in the pump and the housing all need to have minimal clearance (.001 - .002") give or take but they need to be centered on each other including the crank. Can't wait for the next video and you start up. Hope it goes well as there is no information on the net about this engine being torn apart this far yet.
I am curious in finding these tools for the fuel injectors. Do you happen to have links or part numbers for them? I am assuming you would need the head removed to access the bottom of the injector to compress the gasket? Or does the tool work differently? I did it this way because everyone I talked to (shops and dealerships) said this is the way they do it for the fuel injectors and oil pump. Not to say, they aren't doing it the wrong way. I do regret not having used the alignment tool but I will say there is almost zero play in the pump once the oil pan is fully seated so I feel like the pan itself should align the pump but I am by no means am expert and could be wrong. Definitely appreciate any insight you have into the process.
@@TheSundaeDrive Yes I do. I will need to find them but I do have them.
The seals are replaced with the injectors removed, it's a tapers cone that sits over the injectors then with a plastic seater you push the seal over the injector, one adapter for bottom seal and top seal. The compression tool looks like a little barrel you just twist it over the end of the injectors and as you spin it around you work it up and down on the seals and then leave it for about 3-5 minutes then remove and your good to go. But generally we just do a visual Inspection of the seals and as long as there are no signs of deformation or pinching which is most common on install we will reuse them and replace only the seals that are damaged as needed.
Tip for removal spray WD-40 and this helps the injectors release when being removed.
Ok thanks for the tips! That is what I did, I replaced the seals that went bad. I had no luck removing most of the injectors tho so I replaced them all
I thought the torque sequence was to do them at 59 ft/lb, then torque turn 90°, and then torque turn again to 60° (40° on #9 head bolt).
Thank you very much
No problem!
¡Buen maestro amigo!
Glad to help!
Great hands and a very knowledgeable mind! Where can I buy those green gloves?
Glad you enjoyed the video! I think we got them at Napa but it's been awhile l
Threadlocker on lifter tray bolts ?
Holy cow.
You know better than general motors don't you?
note to add: If the rocker arm timing/torque sequence isnt followed correctly its possible that engine will run terribly or not at all, also will hear loud squeaks and rattles from the lifters/cam
Appreciate the input. I assume this was from a personal experience?
Great vid,but not sure on the oil properties messing up the arp lube...😂😂😂
What makes you say that the oil hole on the fuel pump lifter has to be towards the drivers side? I took a pic when I was pulling mine out and it had the hole to the passenger side. Just want to clear this up before I put the engine back in, hopefully you can remember 😅
lol I thought that cam was a roll of tinfoil in the first video where you had all the parts on the table
Hey nice video what about the phaser limiter
Thanks! Here you go ruclips.net/video/FEvH-g_RfKI/видео.html
Did those oil plugs you hammered into the block stay???
Good afternoon! Maybe you talked about this in a prior video, but why did you elect to replace the heads? Thanks!
Any chance you could do a video at the end touching on cost of parts, time put into it and a rough labor cost to have someone else do this? My 14 silverado has 208k and think this would be fun.
Good idea! We are going to do a wrap of video at the end of the series, lessons learned, things we would have done differently, final costs, etc. It is going to be a little while before that video because we still have a few more in the pipeline to film and edit.
Gm warranty time on a camshaft replacement is at 22 hrs, most dealers will charge Time and a half on customer pay tickets so your looking at 30-34 hrs of labor charge. And the reality is that it is a job that I myself do in about 10-12 hours start to finish, with the block in the truck. The dealership I work for charges 135 per hour so that's like 4k cost in labor at a dealership plus tax. But with a warranty on all parts. It is crazy amount of money plus parts are roughly 1300 for all. Hope that helps 6 month later 😁😁
Good summary, thanks!
@@Castro88ification I looked up book time for a camshaft changeout. 31.4 hours. HTF is that even possible 😅
And Q', can you sneak the cam out without pulling the oil pump? Oil pump out means oil pan comes off.
@@mph5896 hey there, yes you can absolutely get it out without touching the pan. You will release the 4 pump bolts only after setting #1 piston to TDC . What you want to do is clean the cam actuator and oil pump with some brake cleaner. And use a paint pen to mark the pump the block and actuator in relation to one another. From here the make or break move is compressing the chain tensioner into the lock position. You will pry on the chain side and leverage to compress the tensioner and pin it. If you do this you will be ok. If the tensioner breaks pan will have to come of to replace it. Release can actuator and You will use #2 flat pry fits in teeth if sprocket and you will begin at 5oclock position and begin prying the chain off to the back of the actuator. Counter clockwise. From here your good to go. Make sure to mark the actuator and chain sprocket at crank with a paint pen at the dimple and arrow to help with install
Doesn't this scream out " Class Action Lawsuit " against GM ! ?
Surprisingly - there older AFM system was even less reliable - the newer one seems to last longer but it is hit or miss. I really wish they didn't have it at all
Did he torque all head bolts at 115 or just the center. It skips to next step and I’m in the middle of putting my truck back together
My cam says its an 11% fuel lobe. Will i need a lash cap for my fuel pump lifter?
That was a good video very informative just one question why would you not put the queen pulley in right away if you can’t put it in now with the engine then it’s not gonna have room for you to hit it with a gun to talk you down how do you do it do use a tool for Certifit I don’t know about that smack it with a mallet and run it in
Good day friend, what camshaft did you install and could you tell me the exact model to install on mine?
GPI Stage 1. I link to all the parts in part 2 of this series!
My 2007 Chevy suburban lifters are ticking…would this fix my lifter problem?
Most likely!
I would have put a new oil pump on!! I learn the hard way! Did this same thing and it went out with only putting 4000 miles on it. And it ended causing lot of damage
That stinks 😩😩
Which engine did you have it fail on?
@@TheSundaeDrive my wife 2010 Suburban 5.3.Twice
hi, thanks for your videos they are awesome, a question did you have to do an electronic delete too, with the famous ship diablo or something else? Thanks again...
It has to be tuned to disable v4 mode, I wouldn't take a chance with a piggy back tune but go with a real tune. You don't want the truck to even try to go into v4 mode as that could damage things.
Thanks for the content
Doing this to my 5.3 now. I’m reusing the stock VLOM. You you recommend removing all the solenoids and plastic after plugging the holes or just leaving all that on?
I left it all on. No issues. Not sure what problems you might have if you remove it.
what is the part called and # of what was used to block off the oil delivery holes in the oil valley
They are linked in the 2nd part of this video series in the description.
Is there a video of replacing the rear main seal?
We have not made a video on that. Hopefully someone else has!
Are rockers arms lifter specific or will it hurt if they get mixed up when you remove them and reinstall.
i hope you didnt leave a big dab of tourque grease on the end of that head stud! thats a cracked block, right there!
nope! we were very careful - no issues with the block at all but that is a good point! Spent way to long cleaning out the holes to hydro lock it with grease lol - although do you know if the grease actually tries to expand with heat?
Best video on you tube
Thanks man! Appreciate it!
I'm watching this after seeing the "What went wrong" video.
Lol nice. It's a bit painful to go back and watch these now knowing what went wrong 🤣 especially since everything was done right
why do GM want you to remove the injectors rail before removing the heads on a direct fuel injection LS 2014 and later model
What your stage 1 the high lift or low lift camshaft? I wanted your same build but I decided to go with the stage 1 high lift. Hope this doesn’t affect longevity too much. Wanted a bit more power but figured it’s still a stage 1 so should be okay.
Thoughts?
Should still be good to go
@@TheSundaeDrive Okay wicked. Do you still run 0w-20 engine oil like it calls for from factory? Did you run a break in oil for any period? Thanks!
Do you have the part number or link for the VLOM gasket?
Should be in the description of part 2 of this series. The parts needed
Just out of curiosity any body knows the cost of this repair at a shop or dealership just curious.
Great video but that head do look right when it's sitting on there are you sure that's not a 6L head
Good eye. Watch our last two videos we just published lol
Was thinking you had a baby torque wrench that was used for the inch pound stuff. Are you sure you listed that one on your tool list? Enjoy your videos.
Thanks! I've added it to the description: amzn.to/2LZ99Hv This isn't the exact one we used but this one goes down to 30" in-lbs and gear-wrench is one of the better quality tools available on amazon. A lot of the others are very questionable.
@@TheSundaeDrive Thanks. Like you said, quality of the inch pound models are kind of sketchy. Took your recommendation, though. Now have 4 torque wrenches; or, will have in a couple of days.
Awesome! Good luck with your build!
Question: what is the function of the electrical connection to the oil pump? I am doing a swap of a 2015 5.3L into a 1964 Chevy Suburban and doing a DOD/AFM delete and curious if it has anything to do with the DOD/AFM or if its purpose is for the VVT. I can't seem to find any info on it anywhere. Thank you for any info you have and thank you for a very well put together step by step instruction for the DOD/AFM delete.
Anthony Grantham the pump is variable, depending on RPM and is electronically controlled by the ECU
If your using the same heads do I still need to open up the camshaft pulley the one with the spring
Im having trouble understanding when the timing marks are dot to dot it means that the cylinder 1 is on tdc on compression stroke and if u go 180 more it would be on exhaust strock right ?
I have a question. Have you had to do a 2020 yet? I bought delete kit and now that i dont plug the conector on the dfm/afm manifold. Will i get a code??
Have not done a 2020 yet. I plugged everything back in on mine and just had it programmed out. I'm not sure the differences on a 2020+ truck tho
When I finger tighten the cam center bolt, the cam spins in the block even though the alignment pin is properly located inside the cam gear. Is that ok?
Hello , do you do any work on the side
We do! You not all jobs shown on the channel tho. You can reach out to us through our website www.tsd-motorspors.com we mostly work on BMWs surprisingly lol
Awesome video bud.. very helpful.. I had a collapse lifter on my 6.2 chevy silverado and keeping everything the same.. with new parts. Could you tell me and torque specs for the heads? I'm not to sure if it's 22 ft lb , 90° , then 70°. plz help.. thanks
You are referring to the head bolts correct (the bolts that hold the heads to the block)? If you are here are the specs as I pulled from alldatadiy.com
I would verify these specs but this is usually a good source:
Cylinder head bolt (internal hex)
first pass in sequence 59lbft
2nd pass in sequence 90 degrees
3rd pass in sequence 40 degrees
Cylinder head bolts
first pass in sequence 59lbft
2nd pass in sequence 90 degrees
3rd pass in sequence 60 degrees
yes... and thanks
No problem!
any idea when part 6 will come out? i was doing the same thing minus heads and intake. Did a cam swap to a BTR stage 2 truck cam, pushrods, new rockers, valve springs and a valve grind and threw down 397 hp at the crank on the engine dyno on 87 octane.
Nice!! It will be coming out later this week :)
Great video. I was looking at that oil pan. I was wondering do you have to change it when installing into hotrod. Example 79 Camaro, or do I need a muscle car oil pan ? Any info is greatly appreciated
That I cannot speak to unfortunately but maybe some else watching will have an answer for that!
Whys the torque spec so high? Everything else ive seen is like 22ftlbs and then 90° then 70°
For the head bolts? That might be for OEM bolts. ARP is different
Ok definitely something that went right over my head.. now I've got to get a snapped head bolt out of my block.. 🤦♂️🤦♂️
Oh man. That stinks 😔 yeah, the OEM head bolts are completely different
How the fuel pump did with that lash cap ?
No issues at all. Runs great
What are the specs on that cam?
Is this the same procedure for a 6.0-6.2?
If it has afm it should be very similar if not identical. You can verify with gwatney performance. Just tell them you've been watching our series
All 2014 do have this AFM system???
do you know the torque specs if you dont have a digital wrench?
Still tripping out that this is worth it. DOD failure issue is just that bad.
How do you recommend torquing the single cam bolt with engine in frame?
I'm do that right now, holding balance bolt with additional ratchet. And is the torque spec really 48lbs + 90 degrees? Have mine at 30 currently (new bolt and cam) and feels like it's way too tight already
I am in the same situation. I have about 75° on my bolt. But it’s tight. I feel like it’s going to snap. Did you get it to the 90° or run it with less?
Was this system offered in the V8 Camaros?
Yes, most c5/c6 Camaros and c7 corvettes have afm
Im looking into a stg2 or stg 3 changing the converter but also heard something about that i had to change the driveshaft also, is that true and why?
The drive shaft will fly apart above 100mph or so. I'll be changing mine out soon
@@TheSundaeDrive so the driveshaft is rated to 98mph or why does that happen?
HOW MANY POUNDS WOULD BE PLACED ON THE BENCH. THANKS
Sir pls replay me my customer 5.3 tahoe deactivtion selonoid not working i want to delete what i do like in this vedeo 2:48 full close ?holes ??
How much does it cost to get it done?
Most shops will probably charge around 2500-3K depending on what you are having done and their labor rates.
Any idea if the bolt torque specs/sequences for the 5.3(L83) are the same for the 6.2(L86)?
Everything should be the same. Only difference between the two is the displacement. Everything else should be the exact same. That’s how it was with ls models. Don’t see why it would be different
@grant I believe @chance is correct. I haven't looked them up to be 100% sure which I must say for liability reasons lol but I don't think they are different
Awesome guys. Thank you both. I've come to the same conclusion as well. Keep up the great content!
No problem! Will do our best!
What kind of mpg do these engines get after the delete?
I lost around 1-2 mpg. managed 19.6mpg on a long road trip.
I have a low mileage (41K) 2014 L83 that I’m installing in a 914, I was told that I could just do the DOD AFM delete on my computer and leave my engine alone??? Thoughts 💭??
No I wouldn't. The lifters that fail are still in there and can still fail even if deactivated. It has happened many times. If it is already out of the vehicle I would 100% do the delete now.
Where did you find the plastic wire keepers for the oil pump flow control solenoid wire mounted on the inside of the front cover that connects below the oil pump? In the video, the wire and keeper are shown at 27:50. It looks like they cracked like mine on the removal video, but I see you found some to replace them with. Having lots of trouble finding them.
Did you ever find these clips? I couldn’t even find them at Chevy dealer. They are not in the motor schematics. They come with the wire kit. I’m thinking of running it without it. Doesn’t seem like anything can catch on it.
Having a problem finding a mechanic to do my 20 15 silverado With getting help rebuilding my engine I have a hundred and ninety thousand on my pick up I just purchased in rear engine seal is Leaking oil No one around here Knows how to rebuild an engine I want to go with a cam and lifters and do away with the Active fuel management Could I hire you to rebuild a 6.0
anybody know the size of the allen bolt on bank 1? i think its a 13mm but not sure. i have up to 10mm and then 14mm on up
13mm Hex Bit Socket: amzn.to/2xo8JX0
How reliable are these engines after deleting the AFM DOD
I've done quite a few of these deletes and as long as you do it right you won't have any issues for a good 75k to 100k miles at the very least.
@@pedrodelasancha516 sounds good, thanks.
Is there a way to torque the Cam Phaser bolt, without using the flexplate tool?
Ive torqued it to 48ftlbs then got a marker and put a dot on the bolt then got my impact gun and carefully tighten it till the dot moved 90 degrees basically degreeing the bolt by eye ive done this múltiple times no issues
When you tighten the driver side head bolt when using the arp bolts. Do you tighten it the same or less, like factory?
factory is a completely different procedure as those bolts are twisted.
Did you have to use a low pressure oil pump or the same one?
I reused the stock pump. No issues.
I just did a stage 2 tsp cam with afm delete . I am experiencing low oil pressure . Any idea what it could be ?
Did you use oil pump alignment tools?
Does anyone know of a quality reprogrammer for eAssist Silverados? This conversion would also be the way to go if you could do it on a eAssist 1500. Thank you.
Is it easier to change out valve springs on heads off the engine
Easy to change valve springs with the motor in the vehicle
So, in order to turn dod/afm off you have to tear the motor down? I want to turn it off.
You can get a tune to have it permanently turned off. This process just physically removes it from the engine.
I have a 19 Sierra l84 contemplating getting a raptor or staying with it. My biggest issue is the hp i want to be in the 400-450 world do you think i am better off with a cam LS vs the eco boost?
Might be able to get there with a big cam, long tube headers etc but a boosted engine is always easier to push more power out of, as long as the internals can take it
Do i have to pull the engine to replace the camshaft?
It is possible to do without pulling the motor but the challenge is dropping the oil pain and resealing well.
How much does this process usually cost ? Cam, long tube headers, valve springs, pushrods, afm/DOD delete, vvt delete, with all new gaskets and bolts. New 4.11 gears with overhaul kit...I have all the parts just looking for a ballpark price on labor..
My local dealer ship charges 27 hour of labor for a cam swap (which I think is a lil high). Redoing the front gears is pretty complicated. I think one guy I spoke to about gears it is about 10-12 hours for a 4x4. To have everything done correctly are at least looking at 30 hours of labor from an experienced shop and could easily be more.
We don't do this as a service so I don't have a baseline price to give you. I only know how long it took us which isn't realistic because of the filming adding time. Filming easily tripled the time needed to do this