You should check drain side of the mosfet to ground. There is probably a short somewhere further on. Can feel around for heat, use a thermal camera, etc. I might pick up one of these later that seems to have the same issue.
I've been focus on repairing mine for a couple of days. Armed with the service manual I've ruled out a bunch of stuff. A lot of the light blue capactiors were fully open circuit. Board is a pain to work with. Use an ESR meter to check caps in circuit. If you don't get a good reading for ESR and capacitance then cut one leg off almost flush with the board and measure again out of circuit. If it measures good bridge the leg with solder. If bad heat up joint on intact leg and pull out cap. Liquid flux and solder wick from both sides to clear Replaced those. And checked all power rails are good. HDMI board communicates with PC but amp doesn't turn on, vacuum fluorescent display, controls, bluetooth, etc do not work. They are all controlled by the Nuvoton m0516 chip. It doesn't get warm either so I feel like it could be dead. Looks like most of the time U2 and U17 blow up for people as well as the capacitors. Search RUclips for Mcgyver Ct260 and you'll find an Italian guy who has 4 videos detailing his repairs on these. The service manual is easily found on google. It contains also the power rail hierarchy near the end which should help. U10 is the main brain of the device.
Trying to troubleshoot a broken soundbar too and am stuck at the same point you are. In another comment you mentioned an IC that has cracked. Which one was it? Who knows, maybe one of us will find a fix since it is very common for those soundbars to break like this. Although it might be a different cause for each of us… but maybe not. Did you try the reset procedure? Take it off power for 1h then plug it in while holding the power button down and keep holding it for 60 seconds. Then try to turn it in. Unplug it, and re-plug it and try to turn it on.
Hey @constantinflux The chip i replaced was Q6 Labeled N7S2 or N752.. hard to tell. the crack was on the left side of the chip. I did attempt the reset procedure and it did not help. I still have hope for this but I've spent so much time on it. Currently its collecting all the dust in the workshop to hopefully be revived one day
@@TestingWithMike There is a Video o YT by an Italian person that iirc replaced the mosfet (?) that is responsible for starting the logic and also swapped some caps around it. I’ll post the link if I find it. Might help you as well!
@@TestingWithMike Found the video I mentioned: ruclips.net/video/n7o4YNPCatc/видео.htmlsi=xBcWTbgd6k9ss6AM you can turn on subtitles and switch to English subtitles. There are two more vids on his channel from a year ago where he is fixing another soundbar. Might be useful. I’ll check the mosfet in mine on Sunday. Maybe it’s faulty in mine too, who knows. Thanks for your video!
@@TestingWithMike Oh and also an important tip in the video is to drain the 400V cap before going in there… at least as far as I understood.. to avoid nasty surprises.
I did not do that actually. Once I noticed there was DC hitting the main board I didn't even think about it. What sort of test on the rectifier would you suggest?
@@kingmola896 No battery on board.. i have a feeling its something do do with the power delivery circuit. In all honesty the time and parts it would take to repair it isnt really worth it. I am likely going to use this for parts for another fix or project. Thanks for watching and commenting :)
@@TestingWithMike yes fitted and all working again.. U2- 3482A. U17- G5725ADJ Can get the service manual easily from the internet with schematics contained. But I would think those two the same. I can’t take credit for it an Italian RUclips video pointed me to the right area
Thank you! Aliexpress is really the best choice to get chips. I paid about $1.50CDN for this one www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005442976835.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.5.20bf6d35Y1v85R&algo_pvid=655cec0b-8244-4ce1-a72b-2dd5f2f92d05&algo_exp_id=655cec0b-8244-4ce1-a72b-2dd5f2f92d05-2&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21CAD%211.55%211.55%21%21%211.13%21%21%402101f49f16915068710544307e83f5%2112000033102243195%21sea%21CA%214246841551%21&curPageLogUid=TXrmk9DHdHow
I havent yet found the proper fix for this. At this point it would likely be cheaper for you to buy a new one than pay for shipping and my time to repair
By the way, I'm having the same problem of the soundbar not lighting. It happened after a cleaner had used the extension where the sounbar was for a vacuum machine. The other devices that shared the anti-surge extension are okay though.
Every chip has a marking on it to show pin 1. In this case, it's the top right indicated by a circle. This issue is very common and I have attempted to repair this while filming part 2. I found a cracked chip and even after replacing it, it still does not power on. Unfortunately, even with the schematics I cannot isolate the issue. I've had to shelf this for now until I have more time to poke away at it.
I shelved this project for now while I work on other things. I am going to take a harder look at things to see if there is something else I missed. Stay Tuned!
![Part 1 - [Diagnosis] Fixing this Bose SoundTouch 300 Soundbar (No Power)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/CUN_1KC2Nf8/mqdefault.jpg)
That was very useful, I have an Audiovox acting up like that one. Thanks for a starting point!
No Problem, I hope you're able to fix it!
You should check drain side of the mosfet to ground. There is probably a short somewhere further on. Can feel around for heat, use a thermal camera, etc. I might pick up one of these later that seems to have the same issue.
Great advice, thank you!
I will definitely be revisiting this
I've been focus on repairing mine for a couple of days. Armed with the service manual I've ruled out a bunch of stuff. A lot of the light blue capactiors were fully open circuit. Board is a pain to work with. Use an ESR meter to check caps in circuit. If you don't get a good reading for ESR and capacitance then cut one leg off almost flush with the board and measure again out of circuit. If it measures good bridge the leg with solder. If bad heat up joint on intact leg and pull out cap. Liquid flux and solder wick from both sides to clear Replaced those. And checked all power rails are good. HDMI board communicates with PC but amp doesn't turn on, vacuum fluorescent display, controls, bluetooth, etc do not work. They are all controlled by the Nuvoton m0516 chip. It doesn't get warm either so I feel like it could be dead. Looks like most of the time U2 and U17 blow up for people as well as the capacitors. Search RUclips for Mcgyver Ct260 and you'll find an Italian guy who has 4 videos detailing his repairs on these. The service manual is easily found on google. It contains also the power rail hierarchy near the end which should help. U10 is the main brain of the device.
Yes! U2 And U12 were cracked for me as well.
Thank you for this!
Better get my tea ready to sit down for Fixing with daddy Mike 😂
No Coffee??? :D
@@TestingWithMike SIR!!!
Trying to troubleshoot a broken soundbar too and am stuck at the same point you are. In another comment you mentioned an IC that has cracked. Which one was it?
Who knows, maybe one of us will find a fix since it is very common for those soundbars to break like this. Although it might be a different cause for each of us… but maybe not. Did you try the reset procedure? Take it off power for 1h then plug it in while holding the power button down and keep holding it for 60 seconds. Then try to turn it in. Unplug it, and re-plug it and try to turn it on.
Hey @constantinflux The chip i replaced was Q6 Labeled N7S2 or N752.. hard to tell. the crack was on the left side of the chip.
I did attempt the reset procedure and it did not help. I still have hope for this but I've spent so much time on it. Currently its collecting all the dust in the workshop to hopefully be revived one day
@@TestingWithMike There is a Video o YT by an Italian person that iirc replaced the mosfet (?) that is responsible for starting the logic and also swapped some caps around it. I’ll post the link if I find it. Might help you as well!
@@TestingWithMike Found the video I mentioned: ruclips.net/video/n7o4YNPCatc/видео.htmlsi=xBcWTbgd6k9ss6AM you can turn on subtitles and switch to English subtitles. There are two more vids on his channel from a year ago where he is fixing another soundbar. Might be useful. I’ll check the mosfet in mine on Sunday. Maybe it’s faulty in mine too, who knows. Thanks for your video!
@@TestingWithMike Oh and also an important tip in the video is to drain the 400V cap before going in there… at least as far as I understood.. to avoid nasty surprises.
@@constantinflux I appreciate the video link, I will have a watch
Did you ever get back to the soundbar mine has the same issue and was looking to repair it?
I did some digging and filmed a bit of it, tried swapping parts but no success.. this one really stumped me
It’s probably a capacitor usually what goes bad on sony
Just wondering if you tested the bridge rectifier if this power supply as one. It should do.
I did not do that actually. Once I noticed there was DC hitting the main board I didn't even think about it. What sort of test on the rectifier would you suggest?
I have the same sound bar and the same problem when i look at i finned out that i have burned IC.
HOW CAN I GET NEW ONE PLEASE?
What IC is burned? Check aliexpress, I've found a ton of good chips on there
@@TestingWithMike I don't know how to order one
Search the chip on aliexpress, find what you need and order it up. Easy easy lemon squeezy
@@TestingWithMike I couldn't find the chip the number only show the uper one the lowers are burned
There should be markings on the board. What's the number corresponding to the chip?
What's the little board you took off for?
That was the HDMI connection board
I googled for my same Bar same Problem i let her sit for 2 days 10min Power now again no Power suply mabey any Batterie on the Board?
@@kingmola896 No battery on board.. i have a feeling its something do do with the power delivery circuit. In all honesty the time and parts it would take to repair it isnt really worth it. I am likely going to use this for parts for another fix or project. Thanks for watching and commenting :)
I suggest you isolate the output's of the IC then check the output voltage of each pin.....
Thanks for the suggestion, I will see what I can find
i have Sony HT-S400,nothing showing on display but working is good
Maybe a similar issue to what happened with this one
U2 and U17 I have the same issue worth a shot
Let me know if you get it fixed
@@TestingWithMike yes fitted and all working again..
U2- 3482A. U17- G5725ADJ
Can get the service manual easily from the internet with schematics contained. But I would think those two the same. I can’t take credit for it an Italian RUclips video pointed me to the right area
Your so smart! Wish you were my husband! Can you tell us where you ordered the part from and how much it cost?
Thank you! Aliexpress is really the best choice to get chips. I paid about $1.50CDN for this one
www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005442976835.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.5.20bf6d35Y1v85R&algo_pvid=655cec0b-8244-4ce1-a72b-2dd5f2f92d05&algo_exp_id=655cec0b-8244-4ce1-a72b-2dd5f2f92d05-2&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21CAD%211.55%211.55%21%21%211.13%21%21%402101f49f16915068710544307e83f5%2112000033102243195%21sea%21CA%214246841551%21&curPageLogUid=TXrmk9DHdHow
I’ve the same. Can you fix this for me 😢
I’m not skilled enough to do this myself !
I havent yet found the proper fix for this. At this point it would likely be cheaper for you to buy a new one than pay for shipping and my time to repair
Might it be you had installed the new mosfett in the wrong direction?
By the way, I'm having the same problem of the soundbar not lighting. It happened after a cleaner had used the extension where the sounbar was for a vacuum machine. The other devices that shared the anti-surge extension are okay though.
Every chip has a marking on it to show pin 1. In this case, it's the top right indicated by a circle. This issue is very common and I have attempted to repair this while filming part 2. I found a cracked chip and even after replacing it, it still does not power on.
Unfortunately, even with the schematics I cannot isolate the issue. I've had to shelf this for now until I have more time to poke away at it.
have this very same soundbar been working for allmost 10 years now it doesn't do anything. lcd went years before everything else stopped working
I'm not done with this yet, I have parts ordered and will be attempting part 2 when they arrive
my dad has one of these maybe ill get him to watch this video
Hear power coming through but the screen is off
Did ya fix it?
Mine wont turn on and it was working and then not working
You likely have the same issue as myself. Stay tuned, I am working on a part 2!
Ithink.its the wire where you pug to.the.socket
Can you be more specific
I bet when you film these there's some meat acclimating on your counter or in your sink, thus killing two birds with one stone
LOL joke is on you. My computer gets so hot when filming, I just cook the burger on the heatsink
Where is the 2d part ? 🧐
I shelved this project for now while I work on other things. I am going to take a harder look at things to see if there is something else I missed. Stay Tuned!
I agree Bro , im working on the same problem whit my Sony soundbar
Waste of Goddamn Time
So is this post 😉
@@TestingWithMike you didnt Fix it! Atleast you Could've been clear in the title friend;IM just saying.