Spoiler Saver & Riddle A lady with pink hair, pink clothes, pink shoes, pink hat, pink carpet and a pink dog lives in a pink bungalow. What colour are her stairs?
Cheers Steve, very similar to the DAB radios in the past, love faults like that. Even Stuart (the sender) mentioned that he thought it would be the audio chip at fault 👍
this should be a standard practice for almost every electronics you buy. just open the unit and slap thermal pad along with heatsink on any ic looking chip and your electronics will thank you. I've seen way too many manufacturers cutting corners by not placing heatsinks on chips which gets seriously hot during workload.
That would prolong the life but it would still die. People who have it on max, have it on max for hours on end. The heatsink would become heat soaked from no air flow and the chip would die like before as the AL would also need help. Who ever ends up owning it should be told to use it at 80% at most if they don't want E-waste.
Been a subscriber since the Mr Telephone days, its been inspiring to see the journey you've made from starting off these "Trying to Fix" series to where you are now. Top man, keep up the excellent work!
Iv been here since the start also, I love how vince's enthusiasm hasn't wavered over the years and how that moment of getting something working is still as magical as it always was for him, I hope it's always like that for me aswell, I'd be lost without my repair hobby
Cheers Kip, it was a nice fault/perfect fix. Not too time consuming either. I have had similar faults in the past on DAB radios, so my confidence was higher on this one 👍
As a tipVince, I always start with the power supply and than I used to trace the signal from input to output. You then often find you find the fault more quickly. I think your soldering and board work is brilliant. Good Job and keep the videos coming.
When you have a datasheet, first thing should be to check all Voltages on the supply. In the datasheet is the pins that starts with VDD. This chip in particular uses a separate voltage supply to drive the speakers so it has VDDL and VDDR to check as well as Digital Voltage. Also VDDR and VDDL have their own ground which might not be the same as the rest of the board. GNDR and GNDL are the grounds.
So would VCC be the power signal which would switch the amp on by powering the input side of the amp? this is common with alot of the TDA amplifier modules
@@tyronenelson9124 this has probably a Class D amplifier, so it would just drive the speakers through internal MOSFETs using power directly from the VDDR and VDDL, that is why It can have a different voltages for the speakers. Also, MOSFETs are very energy efficient hence the lack of any heatsink other than the PCB itself.
I enjoy the fixes of less standard fair like this. Graphics cards and motherboards are cool and flashy but there’s so many other types of electronic gadgets that might be repairable also. So it’s good to see them on the bench too
Nice repair, wouldn't recognize the chip was replaced! Just one note, 10:05 - I wouldn't use amplified output as an input for another amplifier. At best there would be clipping or overvoltage protection would cut it off. Still it seems to me it can make some damage.
Well done vince :-D I'm supprsed that both chips died the same way, not even a power overload. Looked like a class D amplifier when i saw inductor filters on the outputs.
Nice repair Vince. I love your improvised signal tracer using an amplified speaker. Out of interest what is the rating of the power supply adapter for these soundbars? If they are 25W per channel = 50W and they look to be class D amplifiers which could have around 90% efficiency then the the PSU would have to be rated at something like 12V 5A = 60W minimum. I'm just wondering if these are really 50W speakers since, as Scotty once, said ' Ye Cannae change the laws the laws of Physics'
Man, been watching your channel for a long time, its awesome to see have far your diagnostic skills have come along. Great fix, awesome video. Do you think heatsinks on those chips would help the longevity?
Looks like those holes in the board either side of the audio amp ic are maybe for an optional heatsink, with it being a common fault, might be worthwhile bodging some kind of heatsink in there to prevent the chips dying again
That's also what I was thinking. Yes, it says it's not required but Vince found two that might not have needed to be replaced if they only had some sort of heatsink.
Looks like the board was designed to accommodate some kind of heat-sink (grounded holes on the side + silk screen), but for some reason they skipped it (cost?). Since both had the same fault, it's reasonable to assume this could be a common fault on these, and that adding a heat-sink might remedy it.
one point vince you can not check audio output from the chip on a class D amp only after the filters this is to say the inductors. the output from the chip is a high frequency modulated square wave . a great fix.
speaker drivers that small I can't see being more than 12 to 15 watt rated, so there's probably some high pass filtering to increase their power handling by reducing the bass frequencies lower than the tuned frequency of the enclosure and passive radiators.
This was a popular 20w audio amplifier i.c a few years ago, used in TVs and Bluetooth devices, fairly reliable but would really benefit from a heatsink particularly when the volume is cranked up. Now superceded by the TDA family. Another item saved from landfill Vince. Regards.
@@Mymatevince you should definitely revisit this speaker in the near future with a heatsink mod vince. Probably even something off another junker device would be good enough. They make sticky pad thermal compound adhesive type things too I believe you can use to atach it
I had a Poloroid DVD player new that quit working and tried to diagnose long ago. The DVD tray would spin the disc and eject while loading or as it played. I was surprised the size of the unit and the lack of parts to require the waste of space but the build quality overall was so cheap I trashed it.
I would've add more solder to the back side to help with dissipating the heat. Also, if you see, I think it was planned to have some kind of heatsync on top, that's why the holes around it. Knowing that they died because of heat, probably, I would add a heatsync with some termal glue on top of those.
Yeah! And a proper heatsink, considering the available room. It is true that there is no air circulatig to remove the heat from the heatsink but this remedy is better then nothing! Regards from Italy.
my case is powered on fine, but sometimes there's sound, then it crackling like a loose connection, then no sound. the connection cable to speaker seems fine, but I still don't know how sometimes it reconnect itself.
Cheers Joey, can't remember on this one. I think because the board was thin I would have used approx. 400 Celsius and 5 out of a possible 8 airflow. These came off really easy as the board didn't drain away any heat. It was a joy instead of a burning pit of nightmarish hell fire 🔥
Can't help but think those mounting holes either side of the amplifier chip and the white square around it suggest at one point in the design process there was to be a heatsink atop that chip. Which has been removed. Even if the datasheet says it doesn't need a heatsink on page 1, heat is a mortal enemy of chips, and it does say later on page 9 "The external heat-sink or system cooling method should be adopted for maximum power output.".
Are the two holes each end of the Audio chip for a heatsink that wasn't installed at factory? I would add some stick on heatsinks link you can get for RAM chips.
Vince. I have a really nice episode soundbar and I seems the issue may be something similar to this. I’m not qualified to fix it but is it something you would be interested in purchasing and fixing. Comes with the subwoofer as well.
It's interesting how they used vias directly under the chip to sink away the heat from the top and the bottom of the board. You would think that would be enough. That chip must be driven way to high. I'd like to stick a thermal camera on it, to take a look, when it's fully driven 🙂
Very common issue with these type of sound bar, when people try and use the, with their TV’s connected by the phone connections, they get no sound when playing from Blueray players, Sky boxes etc, due to the built in copy protection switching off all except hdmi outputs from the TV.
Can you review the Mayflash MAGIC-S PRO Wireless Controller Adapter? It’s like the MAGIC-NS, but a black adapter and it’s an adapter that will work with the PS4. And it won’t disconnect.
SDATA is next to SDA; and SDATA is the I2S digital audio stream. Which evidently is recognisable. I2C will be used for control (volume, sound effects, etc).
I did, but I found the faulty chip on the original faulty board, and used the good chip from the region locked board to fix the faulty board. I didn't actually fix the region lock problem. If you are interested, I think it was the last Wii U video that I did but it was still well over a year ago 👍👍
Those chips run hot and the bottom heatsink pad does little to stop them running hotter. This is why they fail easily. Might be a good idea to stick some small heatsinks on the tops of the chips. If you notice there are small holes in the board at the top and bottom of each chip for attaching a heatsink and soldering it down.
Yes he did, because all that is really needed are the legs to sit on the solder pads, the heatgun then liquifies the remaining solder on the pads and the flux helps them adhere to the new pins. You only need minimal solder for those types of ICs.
Vince with sound, although a speaker says it is for example 25 watts, doesn't mean that it shuold be driven to the max volume level, all the 25 watts would be is the quality of the speaker compared to a 1 watt speaker for example, and you know around mid range volume it is not going to be distorted anywhere near the same as a 1 watt speaker for example, and quite a lot of the time things like Halfords don't tend to show frequency ranges on their new speaker, they usually just show the watts (because that is all the lad cares about with his beaten up mark 1 ford escort!!) is how much power he can pump through his £2,000 car radio with amplifiers. so like a 10 watt is better sounding than a 1 watt by about 10 times, and 25 watt is going to sound 25 times better than a 1 watt. while right that the speaker should have a chip more powerful than the speaker, it is a way to protect the speakers from damage if someone puts them into overdrive distortion, then the chip is cheaper to replace than the speakers.but a 25 watt speaker is better at handling base and high end sound compared to a 10 watt speaker.
Please fix a microwave oven next. I have 3 that have magically broken by themselves and would like to see if I'm able to repair at least one of them. Cheers!
he has done one panasonic or samsum I think Probably one of the interlock switches from people slamming the door has burned or something took out the fuse or computer in yours Just sayin from experience fixing them
It looks to me that those through-hole solder points on either side of the chip are there to attach a heatsink. They probably left off the heatsink to reduce costs and the chips are just baking themselves to death.
They're only £24 now with remote! And we know who's got some spare chips if they fail!!!! It could be just what I need for something I'm setting up, so I've bought one. It's good to know what's inside before buying.
If ever you want a challenge m8... find a Fossil smartwatch that has been interrupted in its factory reset procedure... OMG what several hours of tail chasing that was and it took me connecting the battery terminals to an input matching the battery at peak that it finally unclenched its undies and reset correctly argh!!!
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Spoiler Saver & Riddle
A lady with pink hair, pink clothes, pink shoes, pink hat, pink carpet and a pink dog lives in a pink bungalow. What colour are her stairs?
Thanks Steve, just pinned it. Good riddle, I won't give away the answer because I had to Google it!!!!
Pink like her stairs to the attic and basement!;-)
@@StevenShaw I know, I'm ashamed of myself. The temptation of an easy answer was just too much! 😂🤣
@@paulfox89 I like it Paul 👍😂
she doesnt have stairs!!!
I love how I've been able to watch Vince's skills get better over these years. That chip replacement was like a pit stop!
And the bravado of this man to fully assemble these after the replacement without testing lol and he was bang on. Love these videos.
Awesome! Love how you diagnosed before you'd even opened them up! Fantastic job, Vince! 👍
Cheers Steve, very similar to the DAB radios in the past, love faults like that. Even Stuart (the sender) mentioned that he thought it would be the audio chip at fault 👍
When you mentioned the kitchen towel Vince, I thought for a moment you were gonna say 'one sheet is plenty' 😂
Fab fix and great video as always.
Would be worth using a little self adhesive heatsink on those. Like ones made for a raspberry Pi. Its almost certainly heat that killed them.
Just wanted to suggest the same thing. ;)
this should be a standard practice for almost every electronics you buy. just open the unit and slap thermal pad along with heatsink on any ic looking chip and your electronics will thank you.
I've seen way too many manufacturers cutting corners by not placing heatsinks on chips which gets seriously hot during workload.
That would prolong the life but it would still die.
People who have it on max, have it on max for hours on end.
The heatsink would become heat soaked from no air flow and the chip would die like before as the AL would also need help.
Who ever ends up owning it should be told to use it at 80% at most if they don't want E-waste.
Been a subscriber since the Mr Telephone days, its been inspiring to see the journey you've made from starting off these "Trying to Fix" series to where you are now.
Top man, keep up the excellent work!
Iv been here since the start also, I love how vince's enthusiasm hasn't wavered over the years and how that moment of getting something working is still as magical as it always was for him, I hope it's always like that for me aswell, I'd be lost without my repair hobby
now this is what I call innovation at it's best!
A perfect fix.. I love your confidence now in putting stuff fully back together to test!
Cheers Kip, it was a nice fault/perfect fix. Not too time consuming either. I have had similar faults in the past on DAB radios, so my confidence was higher on this one 👍
I know you always say its just for fun but I learn so much from watch your videos with you fix things or not. keep up the good work.
20:16 I'm glad you showed me the IPA label, I would never have believed you otherwise!
As a tipVince, I always start with the power supply and than I used to trace the signal from input to output.
You then often find you find the fault more quickly.
I think your soldering and board work is brilliant.
Good Job and keep the videos coming.
Haha nice little plug for kip there mate. Great fix too, keep it up 😁
When you have a datasheet, first thing should be to check all Voltages on the supply. In the datasheet is the pins that starts with VDD. This chip in particular uses a separate voltage supply to drive the speakers so it has VDDL and VDDR to check as well as Digital Voltage. Also VDDR and VDDL have their own ground which might not be the same as the rest of the board. GNDR and GNDL are the grounds.
So would VCC be the power signal which would switch the amp on by powering the input side of the amp? this is common with alot of the TDA amplifier modules
@@tyronenelson9124 this has probably a Class D amplifier, so it would just drive the speakers through internal MOSFETs using power directly from the VDDR and VDDL, that is why It can have a different voltages for the speakers. Also, MOSFETs are very energy efficient hence the lack of any heatsink other than the PCB itself.
damn vince i've been watching since the start pretty much. soldering skills have came along leaps and bounds.
you are getting better and better ❤
Making changing chips look easy now. Great fault finding
Cheers Emma👍👍
Thank you Vince, I've been sick all day and this is just what I needed
Really nice fix Vince! Your soldering skills are on really high level already. Basically You inspired me to start repairs 🙂 Keep up the nice work! 😉
awesome fix Vince you found the fault so fast well done :)
Vince I love your fix videos and i love all of your videos and this video is amazing
I enjoy the fixes of less standard fair like this. Graphics cards and motherboards are cool and flashy but there’s so many other types of electronic gadgets that might be repairable also. So it’s good to see them on the bench too
Nice repair, i would just add some heatsinks 👍👍👍
They even had it in the design. The white square outline and two trough hole pads git it away
I think You are right. Not enough heat dissipation could have killed chip in first place.
Nice repair, wouldn't recognize the chip was replaced!
Just one note, 10:05 - I wouldn't use amplified output as an input for another amplifier. At best there would be clipping or overvoltage protection would cut it off. Still it seems to me it can make some damage.
Yep it can kill the drivers
Well done vince :-D
I'm supprsed that both chips died the same way, not even a power overload.
Looked like a class D amplifier when i saw inductor filters on the outputs.
Great timing just having dinner and watching this perfect 🥰
Nice repair Vince. I love your improvised signal tracer using an amplified speaker.
Out of interest what is the rating of the power supply adapter for these soundbars? If they are 25W per channel = 50W and they look to be class D amplifiers which could have around 90% efficiency then the the PSU would have to be rated at something like 12V 5A = 60W minimum. I'm just wondering if these are really 50W speakers since, as Scotty once, said ' Ye Cannae change the laws the laws of Physics'
👍👍 (one for each) - nice simple fix, you homed in on that super quick!
Thanks Chris, very similar fault to the DAB radio with the faulty Audio chip that I did before👍
Great video. That application looks to be right in the edge of the spec for that chip.
I enjoyed this, you seem to have soldering down to a fine art!
Excellent well done Vince! Great chip work so educational.
Perfect diagnostics 🤩
Good work Vince 👍
Just noticed the bottom code on both faulty chips is identical... 001F7. Perhaps a "bad batch"?
nice repair mate.
Great job Vince 👍👍
Man, been watching your channel for a long time, its awesome to see have far your diagnostic skills have come along.
Great fix, awesome video.
Do you think heatsinks on those chips would help the longevity?
Looks like those holes in the board either side of the audio amp ic are maybe for an optional heatsink, with it being a common fault, might be worthwhile bodging some kind of heatsink in there to prevent the chips dying again
That's also what I was thinking. Yes, it says it's not required but Vince found two that might not have needed to be replaced if they only had some sort of heatsink.
Definitely needs a heatsink there.
good job you are back!!!!
good repair Vince it looked like the makers planed a solder in/on heatsink through the holes at the ends of amp chip ,might me worth a mod
Looks like the board was designed to accommodate some kind of heat-sink (grounded holes on the side + silk screen), but for some reason they skipped it (cost?). Since both had the same fault, it's reasonable to assume this could be a common fault on these, and that adding a heat-sink might remedy it.
Yeah agreed - Just because the datasheet says it can operate like that doesn't mean it's always a good idea
nice one Vince that was a nice and easy fix
one point vince you can not check audio output from the chip on a class D amp only after the filters this is to say the inductors. the output from the chip is a high frequency modulated square wave . a great fix.
How do you take the metal mesh grill off? I need to sheild my soundbar speaker for a crt.
speaker drivers that small I can't see being more than 12 to 15 watt rated, so there's probably some high pass filtering to increase their power handling by reducing the bass frequencies lower than the tuned frequency of the enclosure and passive radiators.
This was a popular 20w audio amplifier i.c a few years ago, used in TVs and Bluetooth devices, fairly reliable but would really benefit from a heatsink particularly when the volume is cranked up. Now superceded by the TDA family. Another item saved from landfill Vince. Regards.
Thanks for the info Richard👍👍
@@Mymatevince you should definitely revisit this speaker in the near future with a heatsink mod vince.
Probably even something off another junker device would be good enough.
They make sticky pad thermal compound adhesive type things too I believe you can use to atach it
Another fascinating video, thanks Vince 🙂
Hi Vince great job! nice clean flux what make is it please?
I had a Poloroid DVD player new that quit working and tried to diagnose long ago. The DVD tray would spin the disc and eject while loading or as it played. I was surprised the size of the unit and the lack of parts to require the waste of space but the build quality overall was so cheap I trashed it.
I think the name Poloroid was sold to a company in India just like Sansui,they are not the same company that they used to be in the 70's.
yep probably crappy laser or a number of other potential faults.
Great video as always
Nice little fixes and they both failed at the same end. I bet there are more with this broken chip out there.
Oh, I've bought 2 of those cxxcp ones from Poundland , the usb socket guatenteed how gentle you are end up falling inside
Thank vince!!!that is another confident fix!!
I would've add more solder to the back side to help with dissipating the heat. Also, if you see, I think it was planned to have some kind of heatsync on top, that's why the holes around it. Knowing that they died because of heat, probably, I would add a heatsync with some termal glue on top of those.
Yeah! And a proper heatsink, considering the available room. It is true that there is no air circulatig to remove the heat from the heatsink but this remedy is better then nothing! Regards from Italy.
Could you do a video on battery replacement on that old iPod nano?
my case is powered on fine, but sometimes there's sound, then it crackling like a loose connection, then no sound. the connection cable to speaker seems fine, but I still don't know how sometimes it reconnect itself.
12:35 Hey... Wait a minute... is that Booksmart Devil from Silversun Pickups you're playing?
nice Work Vince!
that was a neat fix. (y)
where can you get this clear flux you are using?
This reminded me of my dad. He would have done the same thing and has done for a receiver of mine years ago.
Quality fix Vince. You made the soldering look very easy 😂 Out of interest what was the temperature and airflow speed on the station?
Cheers Joey, can't remember on this one. I think because the board was thin I would have used approx. 400 Celsius and 5 out of a possible 8 airflow. These came off really easy as the board didn't drain away any heat. It was a joy instead of a burning pit of nightmarish hell fire 🔥
Can't help but think those mounting holes either side of the amplifier chip and the white square around it suggest at one point in the design process there was to be a heatsink atop that chip.
Which has been removed.
Even if the datasheet says it doesn't need a heatsink on page 1, heat is a mortal enemy of chips, and it does say later on page 9 "The external heat-sink or system cooling method should be adopted for maximum power output.".
Are the two holes each end of the Audio chip for a heatsink that wasn't installed at factory? I would add some stick on heatsinks link you can get for RAM chips.
I saw the same.
Yo that went so smooth you could call it a tea break repair
Who sings your closing song Vince?? Love it!
Love your videos
What are the wires u are using to make it work
Vince. I have a really nice episode soundbar and I seems the issue may be something similar to this. I’m not qualified to fix it but is it something you would be interested in purchasing and fixing. Comes with the subwoofer as well.
It's interesting how they used vias directly under the chip to sink away the heat from the top and the bottom of the board. You would think that would be enough. That chip must be driven way to high. I'd like to stick a thermal camera on it, to take a look, when it's fully driven 🙂
Love your videos keep up the great work
I'm surprised the booming sound vibration over time does not damage the small boards inside.
18:30 the holes are for mounting a air passive cooler block. 21:01 SDA and SCL is a I2C connection, you can use this with your Arduino.
this guys a legend
You can clearly see by the 2 soldering holes next to chip that they cheaped out and skipped on the heat sink.
Great stuff! I've got a Majority Atlas soundbar with a broken USB power input -any thoughts on how to fix it? PS Its the same voice when switched on!
Very common issue with these type of sound bar, when people try and use the, with their TV’s connected by the phone connections, they get no sound when playing from Blueray players, Sky boxes etc, due to the built in copy protection switching off all except hdmi outputs from the TV.
Can you review the Mayflash MAGIC-S PRO Wireless Controller Adapter? It’s like the MAGIC-NS, but a black adapter and it’s an adapter that will work with the PS4. And it won’t disconnect.
Awesome fix..
Another great fix.
SDA and SCL are to do with I2C, no idea why there would be audio on them ?
SDATA is next to SDA; and SDATA is the I2S digital audio stream. Which evidently is recognisable. I2C will be used for control (volume, sound effects, etc).
@@iain999999999999999 Ah missed that
Can someone tell me where I can order these chips from? My soundbar just failed on me and it’s the same issues as these ones.
Well done but I am surprised you didn't stick small heatsinks on your new chips to give them a slightly easier life.
Vince love video
Just wondering if you fixed motherboard on Wii u , one that you did revisit with region lock
I have same problem with a faulty Wii u
I did, but I found the faulty chip on the original faulty board, and used the good chip from the region locked board to fix the faulty board. I didn't actually fix the region lock problem. If you are interested, I think it was the last Wii U video that I did but it was still well over a year ago 👍👍
Those chips run hot and the bottom heatsink pad does little to stop them running hotter. This is why they fail easily. Might be a good idea to stick some small heatsinks on the tops of the chips. If you notice there are small holes in the board at the top and bottom of each chip for attaching a heatsink and soldering it down.
I noticed on the board there wetre mounting holes for heat sinks for those chips.
wow great video again.
Hi Vince, What hot air station do you use, thanks Barry from Hemel
When you soldered the chip in did you just use the existing solder.
Yes he did, because all that is really needed are the legs to sit on the solder pads, the heatgun then liquifies the remaining solder on the pads and the flux helps them adhere to the new pins. You only need minimal solder for those types of ICs.
@@SCorpG22 Cheers for that,thought that was the answer but wanted to make sure.
Vince with sound, although a speaker says it is for example 25 watts, doesn't mean that it shuold be driven to the max volume level, all the 25 watts would be is the quality of the speaker compared to a 1 watt speaker for example, and you know around mid range volume it is not going to be distorted anywhere near the same as a 1 watt speaker for example, and quite a lot of the time things like Halfords don't tend to show frequency ranges on their new speaker, they usually just show the watts (because that is all the lad cares about with his beaten up mark 1 ford escort!!) is how much power he can pump through his £2,000 car radio with amplifiers. so like a 10 watt is better sounding than a 1 watt by about 10 times, and 25 watt is going to sound 25 times better than a 1 watt. while right that the speaker should have a chip more powerful than the speaker, it is a way to protect the speakers from damage if someone puts them into overdrive distortion, then the chip is cheaper to replace than the speakers.but a 25 watt speaker is better at handling base and high end sound compared to a 10 watt speaker.
yep its all about headroom and having something within reasonable spec
on point!
You should put a top-mounted heat sink on the audio chips. Cooling is likely insufficient.
What a nice fix
Thanks Anders 👍
If those chips go out maybe some cheap heatsinks would be enough to protect them.
Great i have one looking forward to fixing lol.
Please fix a microwave oven next. I have 3 that have magically broken by themselves and would like to see if I'm able to repair at least one of them. Cheers!
90% fault on the magnetron + its fuse
He already has. look back through his videos.👍
he has done one panasonic or samsum I think
Probably one of the interlock switches from people slamming the door has burned or something took out the fuse or computer in yours
Just sayin from experience fixing them
should put a heat sink on the chips to prevent them from dying again?
It looks to me that those through-hole solder points on either side of the chip are there to attach a heatsink. They probably left off the heatsink to reduce costs and the chips are just baking themselves to death.
They're only £24 now with remote! And we know who's got some spare chips if they fail!!!! It could be just what I need for something I'm setting up, so I've bought one. It's good to know what's inside before buying.
You have awesome content
i've got 3 diff cheapo potable soundbars. way better than the sound out of my tv
Vince! You need to check RnB! 😛
Drops the mic...
Name of the song at the end?
there he is the most intell man around and very talented
If ever you want a challenge m8... find a Fossil smartwatch that has been interrupted in its factory reset procedure... OMG what several hours of tail chasing that was and it took me connecting the battery terminals to an input matching the battery at peak that it finally unclenched its undies and reset correctly argh!!!
This amp ic are obsolete so no More made, I put some heatskin over (I have from PC store old vram heatskin) for safe they got realy hot.
Good video, i like it.