I've been thinking about the .22lr and what distance to sight in for. I think 100 is too far. At 30 yards you'll shoot way over. I think 50 or 60 so the rifle should shoot 1 inch high or low out to 70. Then hold over or click the scope. Great video thank you
@@pogginstone my base zero for my 22lr is 200yds, y'all are all short changing the 22lrs abilities, a 22short Rd at 200yds punctured a coconut and just demolished the insides with that copper jacket, that short is running @735fps so imagine what a standard or higher will do at longer ranges.
I like this guy. He truly seems down to earth about simply enjoying his Rimfire shooting, and shared his take on it. In the end he's right. Sight it in at any distance you want... Really, the rest is up to the individual to take it as far as they want in regards to (shall we say) the next step.
I just subscribed. I can appreciate another shooting enthusiast who speaks in a clear and technical level based on experience and knowledge obviously obtained through real hands-on and good common sense. Keep up the good work with these videos Sir!
I shot Smallbore rifle for many years in competition. There’s usually not too much difference in point of impact between 50 ft.and 50 yards. My suggestion from watching your 50 ft. and 50 yard targets would be to raise your sights up a number of clicks to center your groups on the bullseye; they were both a little low. When going from 50 yds. to 100 yards, there’s around 6 inches drop in elevation. Iron sights or scopes are typically 1/4 minute clicks, which would necessitate clicking up about 24 clicks to center your group going from 50 to 100 yds. I prefer sighting in my sporting .22 rifles at 50 yards. Good video.
Great video. I’ll say this: I’ve got a Ruger 77-22 with a $23 Barska scope on it. I can smack a 4” plate at 40yrds off-hand in rapid succession with that little rifle. I love the bigger stuff, but .22s are just good, cheap fun!
I started with a .22 rifle Since then, have gotten a great 9mm, a .22 gsg 1911 and the new canadian AR15 (180 actually) wk180c. I love all my guns, but that .22 rifle is always going to be special and I love shooting it.
Bought a Marlin model 60 when I was 18. 40 bucks in 1976, at Kmart. busted pop cans at 100 yards, open sights. The started spinning 12 gauge shellls at the same distance. GREAT GUN.
With open sights do you mind if I don't believe that mainly because if you let me take that 12 gage hull down 200y you can't even see it. "Come on man " Beagleman
If you back your head away from the scope until you get a little fuzz around the edges of your sight picture. A person can use that fuzz to get the same sight picture time after time if you use the same distance from the scope. It's kind of like using a rear peep to center your eye. I think that can be done with just about any low power or maybe even any scope. I use it with my Mosin sniper PU scope and it works well. I think the wind was giving you a lot of trouble. Thanks for posting.
I still have my Ruger 10-22 that I bought back in the 70's. Just in the past few years (eye sight getting bad) I put a 4x10 scope on it. I sighted it in at 50 yards (a quarter would cover 5 shots) because I could put meat on the table with it. Haven't bought ammo recently so I sparingly shoot it. It'll still group like it did 10 years ago!
.22 LR are ammo are cheap comparing to other higher rounds. The powder has a shelf life. Use it, every year that goes by the spunk gets less. One day you will notice that that the bullet drops or become aridic, high to low not left to right. Only adjust your scope with fresh ammo.
Back in the early 1960's there was an article in Guns and Ammo magazine regarding this subject. The procedure described (and this was with the ammunition of the day) was if a 22lr was sighted in at twelve and a half yards, making it very easy with open sights, it would be 2in high at 40yds and 4in low at 75. A friend and I tried this and it worked out very well. The rifle I used was a Marlin 989 M2 with a 16in barrel which at that time was the optimum length for max velocity. My friend's rifle was an expensive German rifle (I don't recall the make) but I think the barrel was 22in. I've passed this on to quite a few people over the years and have never had anyone complain that it didn't work for them.
2 " high @ 40 yards and 4" low @ 75 yards. This equals a 6" drop between 40 ydd. and 75 yards (or 35 yards.) This tragectorydoesn't sound very useful to me. I'm not certain how I'd compensate for distances in between. 2" high at 40 yd. wouldn't seem very useful on an animal say the size of a squirrel. Then I don't know how you'd compensate between -0-and 40 yd. either. Anything beyond 40 yd. Would require a S.W.A.G. ! Just saying ...
As a long time, long distance rifle shooter I am impressed with how you explained two portions of your video...1 parallax ... being self taught , it took me years to understand fully the dynamics of it....and 2...how scope height above the bore can affect your zeroing distance and how it affects further and shorter accuracy/distances. If I had learned from you years ago I would be way ahead of the curve years earlier...you are a master in my book. When I say years, I mean 10-15 years, it took me to learn what you explained in this video so well in less than 10 mins. Hats off to you from Mississippi
It took me a while to figure it all out too. I'm glad you were able to understand my ramblings too! Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching too!
In the army small arms M14a2 through M16 all were zeroed at 100 meters. 1 meter is 39.5 inches. My M48 tank 90mm main zeroed at 1000 meters. 4th inf div. LZ black hawk vietnam.
One meter is actually 39.37 inches, that .13, which is a tad over 1/8 inch. A 1/8 can make a difference in a .22, depending upon how picky you are. The M48 was a great tank. I was in before Vietnam.
Watched your video on the re barrel of the 1890 Winchester yesterday. Made me think about the .22lr. So I went and bought a 75th 10/22 and watched your video on that. Then I thought about sighting it, and here I am. Thank you sir.
Just inherited my brother in law's Springfield 87A .22LR. I haven't shot a .22 in over fifty years. Didn't have one in my current collection of center fire rifles ranging from .22/250 to .30/378 Wby, since I sold mine back in the 60s. Going to get reacquainted with that venerable old war horse from the days of my youth. Thanks for the all things .22 content.
It was cold out and the wind was brutal but I still enjoyed it! You can shoot dime sized groups with that thing all day long! Lol! Thanks for watching Dustin!
Really enjoyed your sighting in post. I have 3 .22lr rifles and have found that sighting in at 25yrds with a 6×24×50, ffp, adjustable parallax is the best base to expand upon then bringing it to 50yds eventually 100yds for extreme accuracy. This with a CZ457, 24.8 barrel. I say this because it really doesn't matter the distance you zero at it's the distance most utilized the most. Thanks again your thoughts on the subject are close to mine, shoot straight stay safe. 🇺🇸
I love big scopes! I like to be able to count the eyelashes on a groundhog from 100yds away! You are 100% correct, 'the distance you utilize the most'. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching too!
Hi! New to your channel. Like other said, I like your down to earth, honest approach. Many are so adamant about their way being THE way... You give the correct technical facts, and tell people to do want they want, but more importantly to enjoy themselves. I hunt mostly in woods, so for me 50 yards for my 22 is adequate. I just bought a budget and simple fix 4x power scope with a fix 50 yard parallax (not 100 like most), and figure I would buy a better one later. But I am surprisingly liking it more than I though I would! But the main thing I got from your video is that: If you want a dime size group at any distance, get an appropriate sized dime! LOL Thanks for the great video.
Most people will adjust their equipment to fit their needs, if you're hunting small game and your typical distance is 30 to 50yds, there's no reason to sight your gear in at 200yds. I have a marlin model 60 with a 4x scope, I thought I'd replace it later too, but I like it just the way it is now. I wonder what a 500yd dime would look like? Lol. Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment!
Nice vid, thanks, good explanation of parallax adjustment and scope info in general. I like small caliber shooting, hope the ammo supply eases up soon for some good Spring range time.
Most .22 ammo will deliver higher velocities out of an 18 inch barrel as opposed to a 24 inch barrel. This is because the powder is burned by the first 16 to18 inches of travel. Once the pressure drops after the powder burns, barrel friction will slow the bullet down.
@@SmallCaliberArmsReview Another thing to consider is, given a certain contour, shorter barrels are stiffer, leading to better accuracy. Also, if you're having a certain .22 barrel not giving consistent results, check the bedding torque. A couple of inch pounds can make a significant difference in your groups.
I cut a notch in the stock for my high cheekbone to fit into. ( round file, smoothed it out.) Eye lines up perfect every time. Cheap lil Bushnell 3x9 scope on high see through rings. Old remington 341 Sportmaster w 22 inch bbl. ( tackdriver) Zeroed at 25 yards ( Squirll distance) can hit golf balls at 120 yards consistantly all day long with CCI Mini Mags. Just set target on top of fat post on bottom of scope. No hash marks, just thin crosshairs going into fat part. Been a working combination for decades. Course it is an OLD Remington made back before George Soros bought them out & started making high priced crap. Ive scored 1000s of water moccassins & countless small game over the decades. Still a tackdriver. AM fanatical about keeping the bore clean after every hunt. Clean & run a well oiled patch through on last pass LEAVING that oil coat in there. 60 years & still shiny bright & ACCURATE.
Most of the older rifles were well made and if you take good care of them, they'll last a long time. I may need to get me a set of the "See through rings" and do a similar setup, lots of the comments mention doing the open sight/scope setup. Thanks for watching!
Doesn't matter as long as you practice with the same gun because you become familiar with it , knowing how much drop your to have at deferent distances and how to adjust your shot .
I agree. When I was a kid, I had a BB gun that I never had to use the sights when I shot it. It wouldn't do any good anyway, they were way off, but I could hit nearly anything I could see. (within range) I ran many, many pounds of BBs through that thing! Thanks for watching!
Chuck Hawks recommends zeroing a .22 at 75 yards for hunting but it gives you other options. 75 yards minimizes the drop compared to a 25 or 50 yard zero and allows hold under for closer shots.
Yeah, my Ruger American Rimfire (22" barrel) is sighted in at 50 yds too. It just seems a good distance to shoot something as small and light as a .22LR plus I'm vision impaired (blind in my right eye, trifocal in left eye to be reasonably functional) so shooting beyond 100 yds is difficult for me even with a scope (Burris Droptine Rimfire 3-9x30). For a half blind guy, I think I do OK. I'm not getting all my shots within a quarter or anything but generally within an inch or two. It's just recreational plinking for me. I also got an old Remington 582 (24" barrel) but it's just iron sights on that rifle so I pretty much only plink at distances under 25 yds. Still fun to shoot. Plinking with .22 is just so relaxing IMO. Just take your time and enjoy each shot. No rush and it's easier on the ammo budget.
That's great that you're still able to enjoy shooting. I agree, I don't have to be able to put 10 rounds through the same hole for it to be fun. I think the reason I like bolt actions more than semi-autos, is that they force me to slow down a bit more. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching too!
The 100 yard zero is the best because its the medium. If you get the rimfire reticale you can also use the moa dots for the different ranges off your 100yd zero. There is minimal drop in the first 50 to 75 yards
Some scope manufactures have online calculators that will tell you what the dots will be, when given a specific bullet, barrel length and zero. If you zero @ 100yds, anything shorter will be high, anything beyond will be low. I like a 100yd zero myself. Thanks for watching!
The sight-in distance can be thought of as a placeholder. I prefer that distance to be 50 feet because it will always produce a more accurate zero, that’s to say, one not adversely effected from shot to shot by inconsistent ammunition and/or wind and weather. For sure, the shorter sight-in distance will produce a better no-wind zero. The shorter distance zero also hides shooter errors of the sort that that increase with distance and thus the short range zero for the novice marksman will be easier to discern as being a good zero than when the shooter has shot a big group at distance which will never triangulate to the same point from one group to another. So, sight-in at 50 feet and then chronograph the ammunition to produce a ballistics calculation which indicates the bullet drop compensation needed to hit point of aim on targets appearing at any distance.
MOA scaled reticle will describe the rifle point of aim movement in inches at target distance no matter the distance. For example one MOA at 50 yards will move bullet impact about .5 inches. So, no matter the zero distance, once zeroed to such a distance then a ballistics calculation will reveal the bullet drop compensation in MOA to hit targets at other distances by simply aiming by hold off method to the appropriate tic mark on the scope’s MOA scale.
I didn't have time to look at all the comments but I did want to mention that your non-adjustable parallax scope (and most if not all) has a distance in which there is no parallax error. Normally it's 100 yards. Scope manuals usually list the distance. Your are correct that the error gets worse when the target is closer or further than the fixed parallax focused position. Your video actually demonstrated very well the reticle not moving at 100 yards and moving a LOT at the closer target. Good job on the video. Thanks for the info.
You are correct, this scope has a fixed parallax at 100yds.I wish I would have done a better job of pointing it out. Thank you for the compliment and thanks for watching!
I have a b22 and use Norma's tactical 22 lr. At 50 yd I get consistent .5"-.75" 10 shot groups. You are dead correct about the scope. I use a 6x24 with parallax adjustment. Love that gun.
I subscribed just because of HOW YOU ARE. ...usually only after knowledgeable you tube stuff ...I m a nerd at shooting/balastics Thank you for just being cool
Velocity tests done recently have shown the optimum barrel length for a .22 is 16-16.5 inches. After that the bullet actually begins to slow down in the barrel. My son and I usually sight zero at 25 yards because that is the distance at which we play battleship. The 10 ring on the battleship target is 5/8 inch in diameter. This is when you can actually see the difference in accuracy from different ammo manufacturers. In our game a 4 power scope may be used but no more.
I think you gave me an idea for another video! Thanks! Sound like you and your son are bonding through a great interest. Great reason to zero where you do, might be interesting to up the distance as skills increase! Lol. Thanks for watching!
Actually due to bullet drop from the muzzle, a 25 yard target, should be close to 100 yards. Because the bullet drop out of the muzzle is at 25yrds. It then rises and then falls at 100 yards.
@@billkoetting5197That's probably about right. I sight a .223 bullet at 30 yards and it zeros 180 yards. The velocity of the .223 extends that short range sight in distance.
I have a Ruger 10/22. My dad bought it when I was about 5 years old. He gave it to me when I turned 18, when I told him I had just purchased a new Glock. I bought a nice new Bushnell, 5-20 variable scope with focal adjustment and a set of Iron Sighter mounts. This is an awesome setup that is surgically accurate. The iron sights are Z’ed in for 50 yards and I set up the scope for a perfect 100 yards. The reticle has marks to compensate for bullet drop at 150 and 200 yards. This plinker has easily had 5K rounds through it but I never put it up dirty and it shows no signs of inaccuracy. The guts of the action have been fully disassembled and cleaned more than 4 dozen times and are a little loose but that just makes it more reliable. If I were to buy it over again today I would get stainless steel but there is just no need. It’s a tack driver out to 100 yards with a very consistent 1.5” groups of ten…very rairly, I get a an unfixed round but I chalk that up to the cheap ammunition I use most of the time. As when I manually eject the cartridge it always fires when I put it back in in a different orientation (hitting a different part of the primer. The only other issues arise with the use of the cheap banana mags and even those dissolve if I under load them by 4-5 rounds. The rotary Ruger mags function flawlessly!
The 10-22 is a great rifle and I agree that most misfire issues are ammo related. I do the same with "duds", re index and try again, they usually go bang. Proper use and good maintenance will help a firearm last a really long time. Enjoy your rifle (and your Glock), have fun, be safe and thanks for watching!
Great information thanks...I'm probably going to start out with a 50 yard zero on my new Tikka t1x 22lr with a 2x7x33 Leupold Scope and see how that works out for me
At youth camp last year a friend and I demonstrated how you can shoot rimfire at different distances without adjusting your scope. But you just change the speed of your ammo. For example you are sighted in for 25 yards with the 1050 fps Norma or CCI. To shoot at 50 yards, use 1300 fps Super X. To shoot at 100 yards, use 1435 fps Browning or Winchester Super X. It worked out quite well and we really impressed our range master.
This brings to mind, the U.S. Army on zeroing day..(iron sights, of course)..we zeroed our m16a1 at 25 meters. We used the supplied "Canadian halfbull" targets.
The m16 drops when it exits the barrel, then climbs back up passing your line of sight at 25m. It continues to climb out to about 125m, then starts to drop passing through your line of sight(again) at 250m. Im curious what the actual trajectory of a 30g 22 would be. Drop, climb, drop, distance
@@terrybyrd3676 The bullet doesn't actually "Climb". The barrel is pointed slightly upward because if it were held perfectly level, the bullet would start dropping as it exited. A bullet doesn't create lift like an airfoil. They usually start out about 1.5" below the sights or scope, the upward "aiming" of the barrel will cause the bullet to cross the line of sight and as the bullet slows and passed the apogee, it will cross the line of sight again. What we refer to as the "zero". There are tons of charts online showing what the trajectory of various rounds are and there also may be calculators that allow you to enter the variables of custom loads. Thanks for watching!
I always like to be able to see what I'm shooting at, especially tiny things at long distances. It doesn't mean I'm going to hit it, but I like to see it. Thanks for watching!
@@SmallCaliberArmsReview I enjoy changing up my zero and playing around with different ammo holdovers in 22lr. Some of the most fun I have shooting is in rimfire
I zero at 85 yards..... that way from zero to 75 yards you are shooting 3 inches high. At 100 yards your shooting 3 inches low. Easy to shoot 3 inches high or low.
I have a Marlin M60 that I put a cheep Simons scope on with Holdon see thru mounts. It will hit a 2 liter cap almost every time out to just over a hundred feet. It is for head shots. I put a piece of mole skin to have my eyes at the same spot and it works well. Just like using a kiss button on a bow.
Very good video covering some basic topics in an easy to follow, enjoyable manner. I especially like your "dime". If I may make a suggestion to my fellow viewers: scopes that do not have an adjustable objective, and are designed for center fire usage typically are set to be parallax free in the area of 100+/- yards whereas scopes without adjustable objectives designed for rimfire are typically set to be parallax free ranging 50 to 75 yards depending on the scope. Look for the specifications when shopping to make a better, more informed purchase, keeping in mind that scopes with adjustable objectives can be more expensive, but will allow one a more versatile optic. Good shooting my friends!
Opens at 25 yds, scoped at 50 yds. I've read an spoke to a gunsmith about all .22 LR powder is burned by the time it exits an 18" barrel and that a longer barrel can slow down the bullet before it exits the barrel.
Be glad you can shot outdoors in Chicago we're limited to 25 yards . Indoor gun ranges only and their outside of the city. Closest outdoor range is about 75 miles away
I just got a new Ruger 10/22 the other day. Went to the range and played around with the gun and scope. I ended up sighting the gun in to be dead on at 25 yds. This then makes it so I can hold over 1 notch high on the scope for 50 yards, 2 notches high for 75, and then 3 notches high at 100. Actually works great. The way I figure, is that most of my shots at small game will be at 25-50 yards. And it will either be a dead on aim or just one notch high. And if I end up trying to take game at longer ranges, well my gun and scope are setup that I just use the proper hold over, and I can basically have a decent chance at any distance
I though about getting one of those but I bought a S&W M&P 15-22 many years ago, I know a couple people that have them, they seem to like them pretty well. Thanks for watching!
I know this is an older video, but I'll leave this comment with the hope that it helps someone. I sight in my open sight .22 LR rifles to print about 1" high at 25 yards. With a standard 40 grain round nose at 1200 fps, this is about a 65 yard zero. This puts the bullet about an inch high at 25 yards, an inch high at 50 yards, and an inch low at 75 yards. So I can use a 6 o'clock hold out to 50 yards then hold dead on out to about 80 yards for minute of rabbit/squirrel accuracy. Beyond that I switch to .22 WMR with a scope.
Given the local speed of sound, I like how the report lags the target impact sound relative to the changing distance. That is, how the firing catches up the target being hit. I have a same color Hoodie exactly like yours. It's the warmest piece of clothing I own. I think I got it at Walmart some years ago, "Basic Editions" brand, with much thicker fleece than most other Hoodies. I have a 1906 Remington .22, octagon barrel, pump which still operates perfectly and dead accurate with iron sights. (Speed of sound at 50 degrees F at sea level is right at 1100 fps).
One camera filming can let you know how far away I am from the target. I'm actually wearing that hoodie today, it's quite cozy. I love the old pump, rolling block, lever action......heck, I love all those old rifles. Most of them back then were made with good solid materials and good human craftsmanship. Enjoy that old Remington, take good care of it and it'll last another 115 years. Thanks for commenting and thanks for watching!
I need to find some of that! I can really tell the difference in the bulk ammo I'm use to shooting and the Norma I hope the 22WMR is the same way. Thanks for Watching!
For .22 rimfire ammo, although ammo manufacturers get muzzle velocity figurtes at 24", many independent researchers have verified that muzzle velocity is highest between 16" and 20". There is some thinking that longer barrels, within reason, tend to be more innately accurate because of the decreasing pressure behind the bullet disturbs the bullet less as it leaves the muzzle, but this doesn't align with current understanding of interior ballistics. A good barrel with a good crown that is stiff for it's length is what you want. In the hunting field, a 20" barrel is all you need, and you can run a larger diameter barrel at that length without having the rifle have too much weight forward. Re sight-in distance, if you're shooting at a fixed distance sight in at that distance. If you're hunting small game like tree squirrels or rabbits, you want to maximize the distance over which the trajectory will have the bullet strike close enough to the crosshairs/aiming point so that you can hold dead on... we can call that 'point-blank range.' For a .22 LR shooting standard velocity 40gr LRN bullets at 1070 ft/sec, a 40 yard zero will put the bullet within 1/2" of the point of aim from 20 yards to 55 yards. Zeroing at 50 yards keeps the bullet within 6/10" of point of aim from 15 to 60 yards. Zeroing at 60 yards will put the bullet within 8/10's of an inch of point of aim from 10 yards to 70 yards... you can get this by zeroing the rifle to be 1/2" high at 50 yards. I personally choose to zero my .22 hunting rifles at 50 yards, and know that I can hold one mil-dot over at 80 yards and two mil-dots over at 100 yards. Combine this with a handheld laser rangefinder and a decent rifle with decent ammo and any squirrel, rabbit, crow, or starling within 100 yards should be dead meat.
Fun video, thanks. I zero my 10/22 at 50 or 25 yards, either way. Since I use 1280 fps ammo among other parameters, I also get a zero at the other distance. This is because the line of sight crosses the parabolic trajectory of the bullet twice. Check out one of the online ballistics calculators and you'll see what I mean.
At 1:38 you probably meant "air resistance" in lieu of "wind resistance" although wind will also slow the bullet down if blowing in the opposite direction as the path of the bullet. The wind not may not always blow but the drag force will always be there.
I shoot CCI Mini-Mag HP’s with a 30yd zero and reconfirm my zero at 70yd. That puts me on all the way out to 80yd shooting my 1.5” spinning target without holds 🎯 100yd is about a 3” hold
Not an expert lol. Me either but I am an avid shooter that's been called obsessed. Well maybe , I shoot some every day. Fortunately I've got 200 yd in my back yard. I ve become a 22 lr shooter like many because 200 is a good range for the caliber, I'm not bored yet. It's available and relatively inexpensive. My zero is at 50 yds because I can shoot very good groups there. My shots past 50 all depend on the precision of the groups at 50. I've found my factory 10 22 is very manufacturer/ brand selective. I'm retired , on fixed income and currently squirreling back for a more precise 22 rifle. I have been however very surprised at the precision of the Ruger rifle. Thanks for a very informative video.
Very Informative Video I have a Savage model 64 Wood stock and I sighted In at 50 yrds with a Cheap Russian scope maybe 2.5 in Group ... However I ran out of Clicks on Elevation, Will re sight in with a Better scope this Spring Really enjoy your Videos Cheers!!
Try Federal Target Match in the 325rd box. I've had great luck getting very consistent velocity on the Chrono w/my Winchester 27'' barrel 67 and my 5.5'' pistol tapping stationary clays at 200m.
Most ".22LR scopes" I've used had the internal parallax set for 75yds - which is just shy of the point at which the average HV round crosses down through the sonic barrier.
I have a few boxes of the Federal but I haven't done much more than just plinking with them. I really like my Winchester 67, very cool old rifle. Thanks for watching!
Have you learned the windage and elevation adjustments for your scope? With that knowledge you can adjust off your sighted in range both closer and further. One minute of angle is 1.047 inches at 100 yds, 2.094 inches at 200 yds, etc. If your scope has 1/4 moa per click at 100 yards you need to dial in 4 clicks for every inch off target (x ring), likewise for a 1/8 moa per click you need to dial in 8 clicks for every inch off target. If you are shooting at 200 yds with 1/4 moa scope you adjust 2 clicks for 1 inch off target and with 1/8 moa scope 4 clicks.
Yes, my attempt was to show the difference without any adjustment. I may not have properly translated what I was going for other than "sight your rifle in for whatever distance you want". Thanks for watching!
I zero in my 581s at 25 yards. From there I know the group will be 1.5 High, at 50 yards, at 70 the group returns to my zero, at 100 yards my hold over is 3 inches. I use a simple 3x9x40 scope w/ double cross hairs. All my Ranging is done with my eyes and brain. Watch for the "Splash", make a tiny adjustment. With a bit of PRACTICE this becomes natural. Steel plate 8 inch, 5 shots 5 hits at 100 yards, at 200 yards 3 hits out of 10, 1st time for me to try the 200 yd plate. With some more practice I WILL get better. Now this is with CCI Mini Mags, 40 grain Round Nose. For EVERY ammo change the Point of Impact will change. So far, my best with my 581s is CCI Standard Velocity and Alguila. 3 shots all holes touching. Keeping Golf Balls rolling at 50 is just fun and great practice of Running Targets.
I use a custom high mount look under scope. My scope is sighted in at 75 yards; iron sights at 25 yards. Because of the scope mount I can hold dead on a squirrel from 60 to 85 yards. Can't see any reason to use a scope for anything closer than 50 yards. The main question is why mount a big bore scope on a .22 rifle.
Get 4 targets.now this will affect or be affected by altitudes for wind resistance. Bullet go further at altitude. But each rifle and and ammo will be slightly different. So stick with one type of ammo. Then you use the 4 targets at 50 Then 80 then 110 and 150 Then write down the drops and stick to that
Nikon stopped making scopes in 2020 which is a shame, Hawke or Athlon make similar quality scopes. I have a Bushnell and Simmons 3-9x32 scope on both of my 22LR, they're budget scopes that are good out to 100 yds. 2-7x32 is another option if you only shoot out to 50 yds.
If sighted in at 50 yrds the grouping should be exactly 4 inches low. As long as you are sand bagging. Another problem you will find is the lead sled as it does NOT put you into a good line of sight with the gun, the difference of the butt holder throws the gun fit out. It is not the rifle, the stand( lead sled) should be changed to either sand bags( centuries old go to) or to the other model of stand that does not have the end cap holding the gun away from your shoulder.
Two gentlemen I used to shoot with were Bisley Comp. winners 9X and 11X respectively, they were rifle instructors in the army and they showed me many " tricks" to accurate shooting and they both said that sand bags have no equal when it comes to shooting.
Only way your going to cure the parallax is to either move your head back, or the scope forward. Something I suspect is difficult with your present scope mounts.
I’m in agreement with an earlier commenter Shane Smith. 25yd as a starting point with .22lr depending on the scope. But after, normally shoot at 50 yards.
17-18 in drop at 100 yards sounds nuts! Maybe its the ammo and barrel length? With my lefty savage mark 2 with a 22in and Aguila 40 gr super high velocity I had at most 5-6 in drop from a 50 yard zero at 100 yds. The group was about the size of a grapefruit iirc, but you can probably blame that on me.
I love shooting rimfires. Easier on the ears, easier on my old shoulder, cheaper to shoot…….I got rid of everything except my 30:06 bolt deer rifle. I’ve got my 10/22 set at 25 yds. Yes, it will shoot a regular sized dime group lol Great video.
There would me a difference for sure but not as drastic as the 50yd zero and a 100yd shot, the farther the bullet travels, the slower it moves and the drop gets bigger.
Pretty simple. What distance is it most used at. Then use a calibrated scope and work your shots from that. Anything over 50yrds and I turn to my 17HMR to do the job in hand.
Come to think of it. For small game, ie rabbit and squirrel, headshots are almost mandatory. Hitting a 1 inch target within 100 yards with a 22 is a challenge. No matter what you are shooting it's still Bullet Placement, Bullet Placement, Bullet Placement. Being able to place the bullet within 1 inch of the Spot simply takes PRACTICE. With precise shot placement, O.S.O.K. everytime, no matter the size of the Target.
I have a friend that said his mother would get mad if you headshot a squirrel, she liked to cook up and eat squirrel brains. Thanks again for watching!
I have several AO scopes, but if I have the option, I won't buy another. I prefer side focus. It minimizes torque along the scope axis and doesn't interfere with scope caps or sun shades. Thanks for the comment, and thanks for watching, too!
I have a marlin - Glenfield 22 rifle that will shoot all varieties of 22 shorts lungs long rifles. I’ve had it since I was 10 or 11 years old and I am 71 years old now. I still take it out once in a while and shoot. And find out that it still holds zero no matter how bad of a shot I am
Retired...bored, nothing goin' on, so I clicked on your recommended channel. Nice job! You explained yourself and presentation very well. I enjoyed your video. I can't shoot outdoors so I have to go to a 50foot indoor pistol range. Range master allows my rifle because it is .22rimfire. You are correct about parallax! heheh...it is a monster at 50 feet and none of my scopes are parallax free at that distance. Still fun to shoot, in spite of the challenges...grin...Thanks for sharing.
I hope you subscribed! I don't care too much for indoor ranges but I still go from time to time. Rimfire is a lot of fun especially because it usually won't break the bank. I've decided not to ever buy another scope that doesn't have parallax adjustment. Thank you very much for the compliment, the comment and thanks for watching too!
Just know the trajectory of the particular round and zero accordingly. I hunt with my .22 so it's a 58 yd zero with my chosen ammo. The bullet stays in a half inch path from 18-58 yds.
I usually sight in at 25 yards and call it good. Found that I'm good out to 75 or 100 yards that way. I'm not competing so I don't need pin point accuracy. I'm hunting small game and target shooting at the range.
Try a Savage Mark II TR 22" heavy barrel. with CCI 40 gr standard velocity should get much better groups in fact all my .22 savage rifles using CCI standard velocity group dime size groups at 25 and 50 yd. The Savage Mark II FVT with peep sights is another great one and you do not have to worry about parallax. Thanks for the video, did not think that the shorter barrel made that much difference in grouping. All my .22 are 21" or 22" barrels except for the over and under .22/410 and Henry and they will not group good, was very disappointed in bough.
I'm no professional marksman by any means, I just enjoy shooting for the fun of it most of the time. I have always wanted a Savage TRR-SR in .17hmr though. Thanks for watching!
@@SmallCaliberArmsReview Would be a nice rifle, but for hear, the .22 is about the lightest as we have too much wind, and need the heaver rounds. I go with the 40 gr bullets.
What scope are you using?typically if its not a rimfire scope your parallax would be 100 yards if its a non adjusting parallax scope .Burris has a rimfire scope thats set at 50 yrds but its a bdc so if you zero it at 50 you can use the recticle if your shooting past 50.
I think this was a Nikon scope I was using in this video. I just try to buy all my scopes with parallax adjustment anymore, mostly because I shoot at various distances around the farm. Thanks for watching.
I got my .22 rifle zeroed at whatever distance that groundhog is when he comes out of the bushes. Actually I set my scope up on a 6in painted steel disc that is the farthest distance I can safely shoot from my porch into my back yard (about 80 yards..just a guess)... and if the rodents are closer than that I just aim a little low on them. I haven't missed a groundhog or a chipmunk since I set that zero. I usually practice by shooting walnuts on the ground at about 75 yards. With subsonic quiet ammo, I haven't missed in 4 months. The high velocity stuff is too unpredictable.
The ones around my place are really skittish, I zero my groundhog getter at 100yds because that's about as close as I can get to them. Thanks for watching!
@@SmallCaliberArmsReview At my house they come right up to the house. I caught one coming into my basement once. I have no choice but to control their population. Five years ago, there were at least 20 adults on my property. Now there are 4.
@@timhallas4275 The first year I moved into my place, I took out 13 of them, now I only get 1 or 2 each year. They still tear up my neighbors bean and corn fields but I just haven't had time to go over there and patrol lately. Maybe next Spring/Summer I'll try to thin them out some more.
@@SmallCaliberArmsReview You can still often adjust the front lens. See the ring that locks it in position? It’s often threaded in the front of the scope, and it can be turned and adjusted to shorten the parallax distance. If the scope was made for centre fire, it will likely have the parallax set for 100 yards.
Finally, a guy who shoots just for enjoyment. Not trying to be Top Dog Expert on RUclips, what a nice change... Thank you...
Wow, thanks!
@@SmallCaliberArmsReview You're absolutely welcome...
I've been thinking about the .22lr and what distance to sight in for. I think 100 is too far. At 30 yards you'll shoot way over. I think 50 or 60 so the rifle should shoot 1 inch high or low out to 70. Then hold over or click the scope. Great video thank you
@@pogginstone my base zero for my 22lr is 200yds, y'all are all short changing the 22lrs abilities, a 22short Rd at 200yds punctured a coconut and just demolished the insides with that copper jacket, that short is running @735fps so imagine what a standard or higher will do at longer ranges.
I like this guy. He truly seems down to earth about simply enjoying his Rimfire shooting, and shared his take on it. In the end he's right. Sight it in at any distance you want... Really, the rest is up to the individual to take it as far as they want in regards to (shall we say) the next step.
Thanks, I greatly appreciate that!
"Dime size group"
You had me laughing so hard my stomach was hurting 😆 🤣 😂
Hey, I had a way to back up my claim! Lol. Thank you for watching!
It was a dime size ... If your done is a quart jar lid ...lol...
I just subscribed. I can appreciate another shooting enthusiast who speaks in a clear and technical level based on experience and knowledge obviously obtained through real hands-on and good common sense. Keep up the good work with these videos Sir!
Thank you very much! I greatly appreciate the subscription and the comment!
I shot Smallbore rifle for many years in competition. There’s usually not too much difference in point of impact between 50 ft.and 50 yards. My suggestion from watching your 50 ft. and 50 yard targets would be to raise your sights up a number of clicks to center your groups on the bullseye; they were both a little low. When going from 50 yds. to 100 yards, there’s around 6 inches drop in elevation. Iron sights or scopes are typically 1/4 minute clicks, which would necessitate clicking up about 24 clicks to center your group going from 50 to 100 yds. I prefer sighting in my sporting .22 rifles at 50 yards. Good video.
I'll have to give it a try, thanks for watching!
excellent explanation
Great video. I’ll say this: I’ve got a Ruger 77-22 with a $23 Barska scope on it. I can smack a 4” plate at 40yrds off-hand in rapid succession with that little rifle. I love the bigger stuff, but .22s are just good, cheap fun!
I couldn't agree more! Thanks for watching!
I started with a .22 rifle
Since then, have gotten a great 9mm, a .22 gsg 1911 and the new canadian AR15 (180 actually) wk180c.
I love all my guns, but that .22 rifle is always going to be special and I love shooting it.
@@edwardsnyder2138 ummm, ok.
Bought a Marlin model 60 when I was 18. 40 bucks in 1976, at Kmart. busted pop cans at 100 yards, open sights. The started spinning 12 gauge shellls at the same distance. GREAT GUN.
With open sights do you mind if I don't believe that mainly because if you let me take that 12 gage hull down 200y you can't even see it. "Come on man "
Beagleman
I really appreciate your honesty in that you shoot how you like to shoot.
Thanks, I appreciate that!
If you back your head away from the scope until you get a little fuzz around the edges of your sight picture. A person can use that fuzz to get the same sight picture time after time if you use the same distance from the scope. It's kind of like using a rear peep to center your eye. I think that can be done with just about any low power or maybe even any scope. I use it with my Mosin sniper PU scope and it works well. I think the wind was giving you a lot of trouble. Thanks for posting.
You are correct. I like to move just far enough away to make the fuzzy ring barely noticeable. It was quite breezy out that day. Thanks for watching!
I do this. Wow at the difference.
This was outstanding. Thanks, Richard!
Thank you Santee!
I still have my Ruger 10-22 that I bought back in the 70's. Just in the past few years (eye sight getting bad) I put a 4x10 scope on it. I sighted it in at 50 yards (a quarter would cover 5 shots) because I could put meat on the table with it. Haven't bought ammo recently so I sparingly shoot it. It'll still group like it did 10 years ago!
The 10-22 is a great rifle. Enjoy yours, be safe and have fun. Thanks for watching!
.22 LR are ammo are cheap comparing to other higher rounds. The powder has a shelf life. Use it, every year that goes by the spunk gets less. One day you will notice that that the bullet drops or become aridic, high to low not left to right. Only adjust your scope with fresh ammo.
Great rifle. I have 2
Back in the early 1960's there was an article in Guns and Ammo magazine regarding this subject.
The procedure described (and this was with the ammunition of the day) was if a 22lr was sighted in at twelve and a half yards, making it very easy with open sights, it would be 2in high at 40yds and 4in low at 75.
A friend and I tried this and it worked out very well. The rifle I used was a Marlin 989 M2 with a 16in barrel
which at that time was the optimum length for max velocity. My friend's rifle was an expensive German rifle (I don't recall the make) but I think the barrel was 22in.
I've passed this on to quite a few people over the years and have never had anyone complain that it didn't work for them.
Anshutz maybe? Those distances sound about right, I may have to give it a try sometime. Thanks for watching!
It seems like it would be almost dead on at 40y or at least closer than 2in high
2 " high @ 40 yards and 4" low @ 75 yards.
This equals a 6" drop between 40 ydd. and 75 yards (or 35 yards.)
This tragectorydoesn't sound very useful to me.
I'm not certain how I'd compensate for distances in between.
2" high at 40 yd. wouldn't seem very useful on an animal say the size of a squirrel.
Then I don't know how you'd compensate between -0-and 40 yd. either.
Anything beyond 40 yd. Would require a S.W.A.G. !
Just saying ...
@@rudygeorgiamulesandcountry1594k
As a long time, long distance rifle shooter I am impressed with how you explained two portions of your video...1 parallax ... being self taught , it took me years to understand fully the dynamics of it....and 2...how scope height above the bore can affect your zeroing distance and how it affects further and shorter accuracy/distances. If I had learned from you years ago I would be way ahead of the curve years earlier...you are a master in my book. When I say years, I mean 10-15 years, it took me to learn what you explained in this video so well in less than 10 mins. Hats off to you from Mississippi
It took me a while to figure it all out too. I'm glad you were able to understand my ramblings too! Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching too!
In the army small arms M14a2 through M16 all were zeroed at 100 meters. 1 meter is 39.5 inches. My M48 tank 90mm main zeroed at 1000 meters. 4th inf div. LZ black hawk vietnam.
That's a whole different set of reasons! 90mm, nice! That's not exactly "Small Caliber" there! Thank you for your service and thank you for watching!
One meter is actually 39.37 inches, that .13, which is a tad over 1/8 inch. A 1/8 can make a difference in a .22, depending upon how picky you are. The M48 was a great tank. I was in before Vietnam.
This is awesome information! Thank you. One of the best small caliber channels on RUclips!!
Appreciate that, thanks for watching!
Watched your video on the re barrel of the 1890 Winchester yesterday. Made me think about the .22lr. So I went and bought a 75th 10/22 and watched your video on that. Then I thought about sighting it, and here I am. Thank you sir.
I hope you enjoy that 10/22! They're a lot of fun. Thanks for watching!
Just inherited my brother in law's Springfield 87A .22LR. I haven't shot a .22 in over fifty years. Didn't have one in my current collection of center fire rifles ranging from .22/250 to .30/378 Wby, since I sold mine back in the 60s. Going to get reacquainted with that venerable old war horse from the days of my youth. Thanks for the all things .22 content.
.22 has got to be some of the most enjoyable rounds there are. Affordable and enjoyable. Thanks for watching!
@James Lundy
Had my gunsmith go over it and spit shine it inside and out. It's gobbling up those LR's like a Gatlin gun. I feel blessed.
Just found your channel. Really liked this video. I have just got back into
.22 LR shooting after a 22 year hiatus. Great channel!
Thanks, I greatly appreciate it. Shooting .22s is where the fun is! Thanks for watching!
That was some nice shootin’ at the end!
I really need one of those dimes! LOL!
It was cold out and the wind was brutal but I still enjoyed it!
You can shoot dime sized groups with that thing all day long! Lol!
Thanks for watching Dustin!
Really enjoyed your sighting in post. I have 3 .22lr rifles and have found that sighting in at 25yrds with a 6×24×50, ffp, adjustable parallax is the best base to expand upon then bringing it to 50yds eventually 100yds for extreme accuracy. This with a CZ457, 24.8 barrel. I say this because it really doesn't matter the distance you zero at it's the distance most utilized the most. Thanks again your thoughts on the subject are close to mine, shoot straight stay safe. 🇺🇸
I love big scopes! I like to be able to count the eyelashes on a groundhog from 100yds away! You are 100% correct, 'the distance you utilize the most'. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching too!
I sight my 22WMR in from 50 to 75 yards & my 22LR is usually sighted in from 25 to 50 yards depending on the scope & rifle.
I guess I don't have any set rules when I'm sighting in my .22s, I probably should though! Thanks for watching!
Hi! New to your channel. Like other said, I like your down to earth, honest approach. Many are so adamant about their way being THE way... You give the correct technical facts, and tell people to do want they want, but more importantly to enjoy themselves. I hunt mostly in woods, so for me 50 yards for my 22 is adequate. I just bought a budget and simple fix 4x power scope with a fix 50 yard parallax (not 100 like most), and figure I would buy a better one later. But I am surprisingly liking it more than I though I would! But the main thing I got from your video is that: If you want a dime size group at any distance, get an appropriate sized dime! LOL Thanks for the great video.
Most people will adjust their equipment to fit their needs, if you're hunting small game and your typical distance is 30 to 50yds, there's no reason to sight your gear in at 200yds. I have a marlin model 60 with a 4x scope, I thought I'd replace it later too, but I like it just the way it is now. I wonder what a 500yd dime would look like? Lol. Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment!
Nice vid, thanks, good explanation of parallax adjustment and scope info in general. I like small caliber shooting, hope the ammo supply eases up soon for some good Spring range time.
Me Too! I'm ready to get out there is some nice comfortable weather and plink away. Thanks for watching!
I'm seeing more supply BUT the prices.... WOW !!
Most .22 ammo will deliver higher velocities out of an 18 inch barrel as opposed to a 24 inch barrel. This is because the powder is burned by the first 16 to18 inches of travel. Once the pressure drops after the powder burns, barrel friction will slow the bullet down.
I just read another comment that said 16" was the optimal barrel length. Looks like I have a topic for another video! Thanks for watching!
@@SmallCaliberArmsReview Thanks for posting. This is how we share knowledge.
@@SmallCaliberArmsReview Another thing to consider is, given a certain contour, shorter barrels are stiffer, leading to better accuracy. Also, if you're having a certain .22 barrel not giving consistent results, check the bedding torque. A couple of inch pounds can make a significant difference in your groups.
There are lots of tiny variables that can have an affect on accuracy!
I cut a notch in the stock for my high cheekbone to fit into. ( round file, smoothed it out.) Eye lines up perfect every time. Cheap lil Bushnell 3x9 scope on high see through rings. Old remington 341 Sportmaster w 22 inch bbl. ( tackdriver) Zeroed at 25 yards ( Squirll distance) can hit golf balls at 120 yards consistantly all day long with CCI Mini Mags. Just set target on top of fat post on bottom of scope. No hash marks, just thin crosshairs going into fat part. Been a working combination for decades. Course it is an OLD Remington made back before George Soros bought them out & started making high priced crap. Ive scored 1000s of water moccassins & countless small game over the decades. Still a tackdriver. AM fanatical about keeping the bore clean after every hunt. Clean & run a well oiled patch through on last pass LEAVING that oil coat in there. 60 years & still shiny bright & ACCURATE.
Most of the older rifles were well made and if you take good care of them, they'll last a long time. I may need to get me a set of the "See through rings" and do a similar setup, lots of the comments mention doing the open sight/scope setup. Thanks for watching!
Doesn't matter as long as you practice with the same gun because you become familiar with it , knowing how much drop your to have at deferent distances and how to adjust your shot .
I agree. When I was a kid, I had a BB gun that I never had to use the sights when I shot it. It wouldn't do any good anyway, they were way off, but I could hit nearly anything I could see. (within range) I ran many, many pounds of BBs through that thing! Thanks for watching!
Chuck Hawks recommends zeroing a .22 at 75 yards for hunting but it gives you other options. 75 yards minimizes the drop compared to a 25 or 50 yard zero and allows hold under for closer shots.
Also good distances. Thanks for watching!
@@SmallCaliberArmsReview I meant to tell you I really liked the video. This was some good food for thought on zeroing.
@@FlyRiverFly Thanks! I hope you subscribed!
Yeah, my Ruger American Rimfire (22" barrel) is sighted in at 50 yds too. It just seems a good distance to shoot something as small and light as a .22LR plus I'm vision impaired (blind in my right eye, trifocal in left eye to be reasonably functional) so shooting beyond 100 yds is difficult for me even with a scope (Burris Droptine Rimfire 3-9x30). For a half blind guy, I think I do OK. I'm not getting all my shots within a quarter or anything but generally within an inch or two. It's just recreational plinking for me.
I also got an old Remington 582 (24" barrel) but it's just iron sights on that rifle so I pretty much only plink at distances under 25 yds. Still fun to shoot. Plinking with .22 is just so relaxing IMO. Just take your time and enjoy each shot. No rush and it's easier on the ammo budget.
That's great that you're still able to enjoy shooting. I agree, I don't have to be able to put 10 rounds through the same hole for it to be fun. I think the reason I like bolt actions more than semi-autos, is that they force me to slow down a bit more. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching too!
The 100 yard zero is the best because its the medium. If you get the rimfire reticale you can also use the moa dots for the different ranges off your 100yd zero. There is minimal drop in the first 50 to 75 yards
Some scope manufactures have online calculators that will tell you what the dots will be, when given a specific bullet, barrel length and zero. If you zero @ 100yds, anything shorter will be high, anything beyond will be low. I like a 100yd zero myself. Thanks for watching!
The sight-in distance can be thought of as a placeholder. I prefer that distance to be 50 feet because it will always produce a more accurate zero, that’s to say, one not adversely effected from shot to shot by inconsistent ammunition and/or wind and weather. For sure, the shorter sight-in distance will produce a better no-wind zero. The shorter distance zero also hides shooter errors of the sort that that increase with distance and thus the short range zero for the novice marksman will be easier to discern as being a good zero than when the shooter has shot a big group at distance which will never triangulate to the same point from one group to another. So, sight-in at 50 feet and then chronograph the ammunition to produce a ballistics calculation which indicates the bullet drop compensation needed to hit point of aim on targets appearing at any distance.
MOA scaled reticle will describe the rifle point of aim movement in inches at target distance no matter the distance. For example one MOA at 50 yards will move bullet impact about .5 inches. So, no matter the zero distance, once zeroed to such a distance then a ballistics calculation will reveal the bullet drop compensation in MOA to hit targets at other distances by simply aiming by hold off method to the appropriate tic mark on the scope’s MOA scale.
I didn't have time to look at all the comments but I did want to mention that your non-adjustable parallax scope (and most if not all) has a distance in which there is no parallax error. Normally it's 100 yards. Scope manuals usually list the distance. Your are correct that the error gets worse when the target is closer or further than the fixed parallax focused position. Your video actually demonstrated very well the reticle not moving at 100 yards and moving a LOT at the closer target. Good job on the video. Thanks for the info.
You are correct, this scope has a fixed parallax at 100yds.I wish I would have done a better job of pointing it out. Thank you for the compliment and thanks for watching!
I have a b22 and use Norma's tactical 22 lr. At 50 yd I get consistent .5"-.75" 10 shot groups. You are dead correct about the scope. I use a 6x24 with parallax adjustment. Love that gun.
Nice! Thanks for watching!
Some folks get caught up in the ego of shooting large caliber ammo and won't shoot the smaller .22 .
Affordable fun
I like to scale it down, a .17HMR is just a tiny .308 and when you have limited distance, it can scratch the itch! Thanks for watching Rusty!
Thanks Richard. Looks like time is your friend. Warm weather helps me also. Enjoyed it. JimE
I have enough stuff to fight, I hate when weather is one of them! Thanks for watching Jim!
I subscribed just because of HOW YOU ARE. ...usually only after knowledgeable you tube stuff ...I m a nerd at shooting/balastics
Thank you for just being cool
Thank you! Thanks for the sub too!
Velocity tests done recently have shown the optimum barrel length for a .22 is 16-16.5 inches. After that the bullet actually begins to slow down in the barrel. My son and I usually sight zero at 25 yards because that is the distance at which we play battleship. The 10 ring on the battleship target is 5/8 inch in diameter. This is when you can actually see the difference in accuracy from different ammo manufacturers. In our game a 4 power scope may be used but no more.
I think you gave me an idea for another video! Thanks! Sound like you and your son are bonding through a great interest. Great reason to zero where you do, might be interesting to up the distance as skills increase! Lol. Thanks for watching!
Actually due to bullet drop from the muzzle, a 25 yard target, should be close to 100 yards. Because the bullet drop out of the muzzle is at 25yrds. It then rises and then falls at 100 yards.
@@billkoetting5197That's probably about right. I sight a .223 bullet at 30 yards and it zeros 180 yards. The velocity of the .223 extends that short range sight in distance.
I have a Ruger 10/22. My dad bought it when I was about 5 years old. He gave it to me when I turned 18, when I told him I had just purchased a new Glock.
I bought a nice new Bushnell, 5-20 variable scope with focal adjustment and a set of Iron Sighter mounts. This is an awesome setup that is surgically accurate.
The iron sights are Z’ed in for 50 yards and I set up the scope for a perfect 100 yards. The reticle has marks to compensate for bullet drop at 150 and 200 yards.
This plinker has easily had 5K rounds through it but I never put it up dirty and it shows no signs of inaccuracy. The guts of the action have been fully disassembled and cleaned more than 4 dozen times and are a little loose but that just makes it more reliable.
If I were to buy it over again today I would get stainless steel but there is just no need. It’s a tack driver out to 100 yards with a very consistent 1.5” groups of ten…very rairly, I get a an unfixed round but I chalk that up to the cheap ammunition I use most of the time. As when I manually eject the cartridge it always fires when I put it back in in a different orientation (hitting a different part of the primer.
The only other issues arise with the use of the cheap banana mags and even those dissolve if I under load them by 4-5 rounds. The rotary Ruger mags function flawlessly!
The 10-22 is a great rifle and I agree that most misfire issues are ammo related. I do the same with "duds", re index and try again, they usually go bang. Proper use and good maintenance will help a firearm last a really long time. Enjoy your rifle (and your Glock), have fun, be safe and thanks for watching!
@@SmallCaliberArmsReview No problem…great channel!
Peace…out!
Great information thanks...I'm probably going to start out with a 50 yard zero on my new Tikka t1x 22lr with a 2x7x33 Leupold Scope and see how that works out for me
Sounds like a great plan to me. Thanks for watching!
At youth camp last year a friend and I demonstrated how you can shoot rimfire at different distances without adjusting your scope. But you just change the speed of your ammo. For example you are sighted in for 25 yards with the 1050 fps Norma or CCI. To shoot at 50 yards, use 1300 fps Super X. To shoot at 100 yards, use 1435 fps Browning or Winchester Super X.
It worked out quite well and we really impressed our range master.
That will definitely do it.
Also, Remington is not good ammo at any price. Automatch is good ammo. Much more consistent and definitely cleaner.
Most people complain about Winchester ammo.
I guess it depends on the batch.
I like it as a specialty round.
I have about 50 pounds of 22lr ammo of many varieties.
This brings to mind, the U.S. Army on zeroing day..(iron sights, of course)..we zeroed our m16a1 at 25 meters. We used the supplied "Canadian halfbull" targets.
I like iron sights, I like a scope better, especially as I age! Thank you for your service and thank you for watching!
The m16 drops when it exits the barrel, then climbs back up passing your line of sight at 25m. It continues to climb out to about 125m, then starts to drop passing through your line of sight(again) at 250m.
Im curious what the actual trajectory of a 30g 22 would be. Drop, climb, drop, distance
@@terrybyrd3676 The bullet doesn't actually "Climb". The barrel is pointed slightly upward because if it were held perfectly level, the bullet would start dropping as it exited. A bullet doesn't create lift like an airfoil. They usually start out about 1.5" below the sights or scope, the upward "aiming" of the barrel will cause the bullet to cross the line of sight and as the bullet slows and passed the apogee, it will cross the line of sight again. What we refer to as the "zero". There are tons of charts online showing what the trajectory of various rounds are and there also may be calculators that allow you to enter the variables of custom loads. Thanks for watching!
Enjoyed. Never had a scope, but I picked up some points to keep in mind for when I do.
I always like to be able to see what I'm shooting at, especially tiny things at long distances. It doesn't mean I'm going to hit it, but I like to see it. Thanks for watching!
Good video again Richard , i sight all my 22lr's in at 40 yards , 22 Magnum at 100 yards.
I do all my .17s at 100 and I should probably do the .22Mags at 100 too, but my 22lr, depends on how I feel that day! Lol. Thanks for watching Shane!
@@SmallCaliberArmsReview I enjoy changing up my zero and playing around with different ammo holdovers in 22lr. Some of the most fun I have shooting is in rimfire
@@larrydecker881 How can you not enjoy shooting rimfire? That's where some good old relaxing fun is. Thanks for watching!
@@SmallCaliberArmsReview 👍
For me my semiauto .22 is set at 25 yrds , i use a red dot on it.The 22 bolt is 50 and since i couldnt get a 22 mag i got a 17hmr thats at 100 yrds
Can't believe you found some quality ammo, wow. Thx for the vid Richard
There's a local place that has a bunch of it but it's a little pricey @ 8bucks/box. Thanks for watching William!
I just found your video , love the humor , dime size group , lol 😂 hilarious , great video as I’m starting to do some 22 shooting , Thankyou for video
Glad you found it and thanks for the compliment. I used to have a TO-20, and an 8n, both pretty cool old tractors. Thanks for watching!
I'm not that new to guns but I did still pick up some useful information from this 1 video alone. Subscribed my friend, keep it up!
There's always something to learn! Thanks for the comment and thanks for subscribing!
Try sighting in at 35yds back on at 75 using HII speed for hunting
35 near zero and 75 zero sounds about right.
I zero at 85 yards..... that way from zero to 75 yards you are shooting 3 inches high. At 100 yards your shooting 3 inches low. Easy to shoot 3 inches high or low.
Sounds good to me! Thanks for watching!
I have a Marlin M60 that I put a cheep Simons scope on with Holdon see thru mounts. It will hit a 2 liter cap almost every time out to just over a hundred feet. It is for head shots. I put a piece of mole skin to have my eyes at the same spot and it works well. Just like using a kiss button on a bow.
Great rifle. Consistent eye placement is key when you don't have a way to adjust parallax. Thanks for watching!
Very good video covering some basic topics in an easy to follow, enjoyable manner. I especially like your "dime". If I may make a suggestion to my fellow viewers: scopes that do not have an adjustable objective, and are designed for center fire usage typically are set to be parallax free in the area of 100+/- yards whereas scopes without adjustable objectives designed for rimfire are typically set to be parallax free ranging 50 to 75 yards depending on the scope. Look for the specifications when shopping to make a better, more informed purchase, keeping in mind that scopes with adjustable objectives can be more expensive, but will allow one a more versatile optic. Good shooting my friends!
Thank you. You are correct about the non adjustable objective scopes, I should have mentioned it in the video. Thanks for watching!
Great video. I learned some important things. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Opens at 25 yds, scoped at 50 yds. I've read an spoke to a gunsmith about all .22 LR powder is burned by the time it exits an 18" barrel and that a longer barrel can slow down the bullet before it exits the barrel.
Yeah, when you're too close, it seems like a scope makes things more difficult. There is a tradeoff with barrel lengts and velocity.
Be glad you can shot outdoors in Chicago we're limited to 25 yards . Indoor gun ranges only and their outside of the city. Closest outdoor range is about 75 miles away
I love living in the country! Thanks for watching!
I just got a new Ruger 10/22 the other day. Went to the range and played around with the gun and scope. I ended up sighting the gun in to be dead on at 25 yds. This then makes it so I can hold over 1 notch high on the scope for 50 yards, 2 notches high for 75, and then 3 notches high at 100.
Actually works great.
The way I figure, is that most of my shots at small game will be at 25-50 yards. And it will either be a dead on aim or just one notch high.
And if I end up trying to take game at longer ranges, well my gun and scope are setup that I just use the proper hold over, and I can basically have a decent chance at any distance
Excellent reasoning! Thanks for the comment and thank you for watching too!
Just picked up cmmg conversion kit for AR sighted at 50 with non magnified red dot, good times. Had to hold over to hit 100
I though about getting one of those but I bought a S&W M&P 15-22 many years ago, I know a couple people that have them, they seem to like them pretty well. Thanks for watching!
I know this is an older video, but I'll leave this comment with the hope that it helps someone. I sight in my open sight .22 LR rifles to print about 1" high at 25 yards. With a standard 40 grain round nose at 1200 fps, this is about a 65 yard zero. This puts the bullet about an inch high at 25 yards, an inch high at 50 yards, and an inch low at 75 yards. So I can use a 6 o'clock hold out to 50 yards then hold dead on out to about 80 yards for minute of rabbit/squirrel accuracy. Beyond that I switch to .22 WMR with a scope.
Sounds good to me, especially the part about the .22WMR with a scope! Thanks for commenting and thanks for watching too!
50 yards is prime for a 22
I agree. They'll do more, but 50yds is great. Thanks for watching!
Given the local speed of sound, I like how the report lags the target impact sound relative to the changing distance. That is, how the firing catches up the target being hit. I have a same color Hoodie exactly like yours. It's the warmest piece of clothing I own. I think I got it at Walmart some years ago, "Basic Editions" brand, with much thicker fleece than most other Hoodies. I have a 1906 Remington .22, octagon barrel, pump which still operates perfectly and dead accurate with iron sights. (Speed of sound at 50 degrees F at sea level is right at 1100 fps).
One camera filming can let you know how far away I am from the target.
I'm actually wearing that hoodie today, it's quite cozy.
I love the old pump, rolling block, lever action......heck, I love all those old rifles. Most of them back then were made with good solid materials and good human craftsmanship. Enjoy that old Remington, take good care of it and it'll last another 115 years. Thanks for commenting and thanks for watching!
Good info.I found some of the Norma 22wmr ammo last week,,going to try it in my Ruger American rifle.
I need to find some of that! I can really tell the difference in the bulk ammo I'm use to shooting and the Norma I hope the 22WMR is the same way. Thanks for Watching!
Another great video Richard
Thank you Sir!
Tried out a 4x14 Bushnell banner 2 and it was nice ! Clear too . Couldn’t believe the price either for the clarity . That’s the Bushnell to get imo .
I think I have a Bushnell scope or two. Thanks for watching!
For .22 rimfire ammo, although ammo manufacturers get muzzle velocity figurtes at 24", many independent researchers have verified that muzzle velocity is highest between 16" and 20". There is some thinking that longer barrels, within reason, tend to be more innately accurate because of the decreasing pressure behind the bullet disturbs the bullet less as it leaves the muzzle, but this doesn't align with current understanding of interior ballistics. A good barrel with a good crown that is stiff for it's length is what you want. In the hunting field, a 20" barrel is all you need, and you can run a larger diameter barrel at that length without having the rifle have too much weight forward. Re sight-in distance, if you're shooting at a fixed distance sight in at that distance. If you're hunting small game like tree squirrels or rabbits, you want to maximize the distance over which the trajectory will have the bullet strike close enough to the crosshairs/aiming point so that you can hold dead on... we can call that 'point-blank range.' For a .22 LR shooting standard velocity 40gr LRN bullets at 1070 ft/sec, a 40 yard zero will put the bullet within 1/2" of the point of aim from 20 yards to 55 yards. Zeroing at 50 yards keeps the bullet within 6/10" of point of aim from 15 to 60 yards. Zeroing at 60 yards will put the bullet within 8/10's of an inch of point of aim from 10 yards to 70 yards... you can get this by zeroing the rifle to be 1/2" high at 50 yards. I personally choose to zero my .22 hunting rifles at 50 yards, and know that I can hold one mil-dot over at 80 yards and two mil-dots over at 100 yards. Combine this with a handheld laser rangefinder and a decent rifle with decent ammo and any squirrel, rabbit, crow, or starling within 100 yards should be dead meat.
Excellent information. Thanks for sharing and thanks for watching too!
Fun video, thanks. I zero my 10/22 at 50 or 25 yards, either way. Since I use 1280 fps ammo among other parameters, I also get a zero at the other distance. This is because the line of sight crosses the parabolic trajectory of the bullet twice. Check out one of the online ballistics calculators and you'll see what I mean.
Those sound like good distances to me. Yes, sometimes referred to as "zero" and "near zero". Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching too!
Amen! I do 20 to 30 yards, just depends on the rifle and ammo
From all of us who ALMOST talked crap or deleted some after yousaid 'dime-sized group', we are many, and we apologize
Lol, thanks for staying with me!
At 1:38 you probably meant "air resistance" in lieu of "wind resistance" although wind will also slow the bullet down if blowing in the opposite direction as the path of the bullet. The wind not may not always blow but the drag force will always be there.
Technically, yes. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching!
I shoot CCI Mini-Mag HP’s with a 30yd zero and reconfirm my zero at 70yd. That puts me on all the way out to 80yd shooting my 1.5” spinning target without holds 🎯 100yd is about a 3” hold
Sounds good to me. That puts the apogee at about 50yds?
"That's a dime size group" then brings out a 3" dime. I had to laugh out loud!
I have to be able to back up my claim! Lol. Thanks for watching!
"I'm not an expert shooter." Don't sweat it, brother. Most of us aren't either!
I just like to have fun and be able to take out a critter every now and then. Thanks for watching!
Not an expert lol. Me either but I am an avid shooter that's been called obsessed. Well maybe , I shoot some every day. Fortunately I've got 200 yd in my back yard. I ve become a 22 lr shooter like many because 200 is a good range for the caliber, I'm not bored yet. It's available and relatively inexpensive. My zero is at 50 yds because I can shoot very good groups there. My shots past 50 all depend on the precision of the groups at 50. I've found my factory 10 22 is very manufacturer/ brand selective. I'm retired , on fixed income and currently squirreling back for a more precise 22 rifle. I have been however very surprised at the precision of the Ruger rifle.
Thanks for a very informative video.
Very Informative Video I have a Savage model 64 Wood stock and I sighted In at 50 yrds with a Cheap Russian scope maybe 2.5 in Group ... However I ran out of Clicks on Elevation, Will re sight in with a Better scope this Spring Really enjoy your Videos Cheers!!
I like the Model 64. I can hardly wait for some warmer weather myself! Thank you for watching!
That happened to me once before. I swapped the rings around and it was much better, but I ended up getting better rings eventually.
I so much agree sight in what you shoot most often I am in at 82 feet or 27 yards.Then I use my BDC.I works just fine.
Yup!
Good Explanation of parallax.
Thanks, and thank you for watching too!
Try Federal Target Match in the 325rd box. I've had great luck getting very consistent velocity on the Chrono w/my Winchester 27'' barrel 67 and my 5.5'' pistol tapping stationary clays at 200m.
Most ".22LR scopes" I've used had the internal parallax set for 75yds - which is just shy of the point at which the average HV round crosses down through the sonic barrier.
I have a few boxes of the Federal but I haven't done much more than just plinking with them. I really like my Winchester 67, very cool old rifle. Thanks for watching!
I've heard that most of the fixed parallax scopes are set at 100yds, I guess that's why I like the adjustable ones.
Have you learned the windage and elevation adjustments for your scope? With that knowledge you can adjust off your sighted in range both closer and further. One minute of angle is 1.047 inches at 100 yds, 2.094 inches at 200 yds, etc. If your scope has 1/4 moa per click at 100 yards you need to dial in 4 clicks for every inch off target (x ring), likewise for a 1/8 moa per click you need to dial in 8 clicks for every inch off target. If you are shooting at 200 yds with 1/4 moa scope you adjust 2 clicks for 1 inch off target and with 1/8 moa scope 4 clicks.
Yes, my attempt was to show the difference without any adjustment. I may not have properly translated what I was going for other than "sight your rifle in for whatever distance you want". Thanks for watching!
Great video man! I really enjoyed it and cracked tf up at your "dime sized group" 🤣 you did awesome man
Awesome! Thank you!
I zero in my 581s at 25 yards. From there I know the group will be 1.5 High, at 50 yards, at 70 the group returns to my zero, at 100 yards my hold over is 3 inches. I use a simple 3x9x40 scope w/ double cross hairs. All my Ranging is done with my eyes and brain. Watch for the "Splash", make a tiny adjustment. With a bit of PRACTICE this becomes natural.
Steel plate 8 inch, 5 shots 5 hits at 100 yards, at 200 yards 3 hits out of 10, 1st time for me to try the 200 yd plate. With some more practice I WILL get better.
Now this is with CCI Mini Mags, 40 grain Round Nose.
For EVERY ammo change the Point of Impact will change.
So far, my best with my 581s is CCI Standard Velocity and Alguila. 3 shots all holes touching.
Keeping Golf Balls rolling at 50 is just fun and great practice of Running Targets.
Excellent choices and reasons. Getting really familiar with your firearm is a big plus. Thanks for watching!
My reason is also because most manufacturers list they flat line data on the box at 100 yds. So it makes it easier to do bullet drop comp. for me.
PS I also use the info for drop using Iron sights always has worked good for me.
I agree, that's some great information they provide on those boxes! It has helped me quite a few times. Thanks for watching!
Yes, works with or without a scope.
I use a custom high mount look under scope. My scope is sighted in at 75 yards; iron sights at 25 yards. Because of the scope mount I can hold dead on a squirrel from 60 to 85 yards. Can't see any reason to use a scope for anything closer than 50 yards.
The main question is why mount a big bore scope on a .22 rifle.
Good idea, sounds like you have all the bases covered. I like the bigger Field of View on the bigger scopes. Thanks for watching!
Get 4 targets.now this will affect or be affected by altitudes for wind resistance.
Bullet go further at altitude.
But each rifle and and ammo will be slightly different.
So stick with one type of ammo. Then you use the 4 targets at 50
Then 80 then 110 and 150
Then write down the drops and stick to that
Thanks for watching!
Nikon stopped making scopes in 2020 which is a shame, Hawke or Athlon make similar quality scopes. I have a Bushnell and Simmons 3-9x32 scope on both of my 22LR, they're budget scopes that are good out to 100 yds. 2-7x32 is another option if you only shoot out to 50 yds.
There are a couple of the Bushnell scopes I'd like to get. They seem to be good quality and pretty decent pricing too.
If sighted in at 50 yrds the grouping should be exactly 4 inches low. As long as you are sand bagging. Another problem you will find is the lead sled as it does NOT put you into a good line of sight with the gun, the difference of the butt holder throws the gun fit out. It is not the rifle, the stand( lead sled) should be changed to either sand bags( centuries old go to) or to the other model of stand that does not have the end cap holding the gun away from your shoulder.
I prefer sand bags. Thanks for watching!
Two gentlemen I used to shoot with were Bisley Comp. winners 9X and 11X respectively, they were rifle instructors in the army and they showed me many " tricks" to accurate shooting and they both said that sand bags have no equal when it comes to shooting.
@@lloydwilliams8080 I agree with them.
Only way your going to cure the parallax is to either move your head back, or the scope forward. Something I suspect is difficult with your present scope mounts.
Or get a better scope! I could move it a little but right where it is now gives me the best FOV and eye relief. Thanks for watching!
I’m in agreement with an earlier commenter Shane Smith.
25yd as a starting point with .22lr depending on the scope. But after, normally shoot at 50 yards.
Those are good distances, especially with a .22.
17-18 in drop at 100 yards sounds nuts!
Maybe its the ammo and barrel length? With my lefty savage mark 2 with a 22in and Aguila 40 gr super high velocity I had at most 5-6 in drop from a 50 yard zero at 100 yds.
The group was about the size of a grapefruit iirc, but you can probably blame that on me.
According to the ballistic charts I was looking at they start dropping dramatically around 75 yards.
I love shooting rimfires. Easier on the ears, easier on my old shoulder, cheaper to shoot…….I got rid of everything except my 30:06 bolt deer rifle. I’ve got my 10/22 set at 25 yds. Yes, it will shoot a regular sized dime group lol
Great video.
When it's affordable, it's even more fun! Thanks for watching!
What about 75 yards center and fire at 50 and 100 to see where one would need to shoot for centers
There would me a difference for sure but not as drastic as the 50yd zero and a 100yd shot, the farther the bullet travels, the slower it moves and the drop gets bigger.
The cheap thunderbolt stuff. Zero in at 50 yds. And figure a 4" drop at a 100 yds
Pretty simple. What distance is it most used at. Then use a calibrated scope and work your shots from that. Anything over 50yrds and I turn to my 17HMR to do the job in hand.
You are correct! .17hmr is one of my favorites, especially varmint hunting @100yds. Thanks for watching!
Great informative video!
Glad it was helpful!
Come to think of it.
For small game, ie rabbit and squirrel, headshots are almost mandatory. Hitting a 1 inch target within 100 yards with a 22 is a challenge.
No matter what you are shooting it's still Bullet Placement, Bullet Placement, Bullet Placement. Being able to place the bullet within 1 inch of the Spot simply takes PRACTICE. With precise shot placement, O.S.O.K. everytime, no matter the size of the Target.
I have a friend that said his mother would get mad if you headshot a squirrel, she liked to cook up and eat squirrel brains. Thanks again for watching!
get an AO scope and no more parallax problems at any distance ever again. the most common mistake people make is not getting and AO scope
I have several AO scopes, but if I have the option, I won't buy another. I prefer side focus. It minimizes torque along the scope axis and doesn't interfere with scope caps or sun shades. Thanks for the comment, and thanks for watching, too!
By box said something about 1.5 miles. I’m only getting roughly 300’ groups though.
It says something about they can be dangerous up to that distance.
Nicely done Sir.
Thank you!
I have a marlin - Glenfield 22 rifle that will shoot all varieties of 22 shorts lungs long rifles. I’ve had it since I was 10 or 11 years old and I am 71 years old now. I still take it out once in a while and shoot. And find out that it still holds zero no matter how bad of a shot I am
They are good dependable rifles. Hopefully you'll enjoy it for many more years. Thank you for watching!
I really enjoy your down to earth/common man approach. I need to find that dime tho. lol
Lol! Amazon! Thanks for the comment !
Retired...bored, nothing goin' on, so I clicked on your recommended channel. Nice job! You explained yourself and presentation very well. I enjoyed your video. I can't shoot outdoors so I have to go to a 50foot indoor pistol range. Range master allows my rifle because it is .22rimfire. You are correct about parallax! heheh...it is a monster at 50 feet and none of my scopes are parallax free at that distance. Still fun to shoot, in spite of the challenges...grin...Thanks for sharing.
I hope you subscribed! I don't care too much for indoor ranges but I still go from time to time. Rimfire is a lot of fun especially because it usually won't break the bank. I've decided not to ever buy another scope that doesn't have parallax adjustment. Thank you very much for the compliment, the comment and thanks for watching too!
Just know the trajectory of the particular round and zero accordingly. I hunt with my .22 so it's a 58 yd zero with my chosen ammo. The bullet stays in a half inch path from 18-58 yds.
Sounds good to me! Thanks for watching!
I usually sight in at 25 yards and call it good. Found that I'm good out to 75 or 100 yards that way. I'm not competing so I don't need pin point accuracy. I'm hunting small game and target shooting at the range.
I don't compete either, I just plink and try to keep the groundhog population in check. 25yds sounds good to me! Thanks for watching!
Good review.Good old boy technology verse science.Trigger time always wins out.
Thanks! I set my scope up according to what I'm doing with the rifle, it works for me!
Try a Savage Mark II TR 22" heavy barrel. with CCI 40 gr standard velocity should get much better groups in fact all my .22 savage rifles using CCI standard velocity group dime size groups at 25 and 50 yd. The Savage Mark II FVT with peep sights is another great one and you do not have to worry about parallax. Thanks for the video, did not think that the shorter barrel made that much difference in grouping. All my .22 are 21" or 22" barrels except for the over and under .22/410 and Henry and they will not group good, was very disappointed in bough.
I'm no professional marksman by any means, I just enjoy shooting for the fun of it most of the time. I have always wanted a Savage TRR-SR in .17hmr though. Thanks for watching!
@@SmallCaliberArmsReview Would be a nice rifle, but for hear, the .22 is about the lightest as we have too much wind, and need the heaver rounds. I go with the 40 gr bullets.
A couple nice groups for what you've got.
Thanks, and thanks for watching too!
thumbs up in support of your channel
Big thanks!
What scope are you using?typically if its not a rimfire scope your parallax would be 100 yards if its a non adjusting parallax scope .Burris has a rimfire scope thats set at 50 yrds but its a bdc so if you zero it at 50 you can use the recticle if your shooting past 50.
I think this was a Nikon scope I was using in this video. I just try to buy all my scopes with parallax adjustment anymore, mostly because I shoot at various distances around the farm. Thanks for watching.
I got my .22 rifle zeroed at whatever distance that groundhog is when he comes out of the bushes. Actually I set my scope up on a 6in painted steel disc that is the farthest distance I can safely shoot from my porch into my back yard (about 80 yards..just a guess)... and if the rodents are closer than that I just aim a little low on them. I haven't missed a groundhog or a chipmunk since I set that zero. I usually practice by shooting walnuts on the ground at about 75 yards. With subsonic quiet ammo, I haven't missed in 4 months. The high velocity stuff is too unpredictable.
The ones around my place are really skittish, I zero my groundhog getter at 100yds because that's about as close as I can get to them. Thanks for watching!
@@SmallCaliberArmsReview At my house they come right up to the house. I caught one coming into my basement once. I have no choice but to control their population. Five years ago, there were at least 20 adults on my property. Now there are 4.
@@timhallas4275 The first year I moved into my place, I took out 13 of them, now I only get 1 or 2 each year. They still tear up my neighbors bean and corn fields but I just haven't had time to go over there and patrol lately. Maybe next Spring/Summer I'll try to thin them out some more.
Adjust the front lens to take out the parallax
On this scope, there is no adjustment of the front lens, only the ocular.
@@SmallCaliberArmsReview You can still often adjust the front lens. See the ring that locks it in position? It’s often threaded in the front of the scope, and it can be turned and adjusted to shorten the parallax distance. If the scope was made for centre fire, it will likely have the parallax set for 100 yards.