Hello Travis, I have the no cell power issue, I want to order the part but I can't seem to find it. What is the specific name of the part that you replaced? Thanks.
@@johnjoy6374 Hey John, I'm sorry just now seeing this, not sure why YT never notified me. The switch details are printed on the top, but the one that I had linked in the detail was this one: Omron Relay 24vdc SPDT G8P-1C4P-24VDC
@@felixelpedes8870 I'm sorry just now seeing this, not sure why YT never notified me. The switch details are printed on the top, but the one that I had linked in the detail was this one: Omron Relay 24vdc SPDT G8P-1C4P-24VDC
This same repair worked for me. After soldering the backside of the circuit board multiple times. I replaced the same relay as Travis. The last few times I tried the solder repair the light was out when I restarted the filter but I heard a clicking noise (probably the bad relay) and the light came back on. After replacing the relay no light. Thanks for the video Travis. It saved me the cost of a new circuit board, now about $650 on Amazon.
Replaced power switch, as instructed, which did the trick! Great instructions. Instead of dealing with removing the malfunctioning switch and soldering in the new one myself, which I bought online as suggested, I called around and found a nearby computer/mobile phone repair shop that did all the work expertly for only $39 plus tax.
A million Thanks. As a woman, even after watching your video, it took me 3 days to get up the courage to remove the motherboard. Your video showed me what a burnt out solder looked like. I used the assistance of my teen Son and showed him how to solder (I work with stained glass). He was great! Put motherboard back and Voila! Check light off and AquaLogic started reading salt levels! Sooooo Happy :)! Many Kudos!
I got the dreaded "No Cell Power 2" error last week and fixing the solder joint on K1 wasn't enough to correct the problem. I came across your video and ordered the relay from Amazon and just got done desoldering the old and installing the new. I'm happy to report that the fix worked like a charm and my salt cell is back on the job and you sir are a steely eyed missile man.
Thanks for the video. For everyone else listening , my situation was a little different. My amps and ppl where showing 0’s. I pulled out the motherboard and saw a burnt connection on a different relay. I tried to re-solder , but it did not work. I ended up changing out the top relay on the middle of the motherboard and now it works. Thanks for the content , saved me from buying a new board !
Hey Corey, great job. Which relay did you update by chance? I have another pool pump motor replacement video I need to put together, but if I'm going to do another I can check out that part as well. I know finding details on these boards can be challenging.
Had this no power problem happen and I first tried the "re-solder the joint" fix. It worked, but I saw your video and ordered the switch just in case. Well 3 weeks later it went again. So I replaced the switch as in your video (the pry with a screwdriver tip was very helpful). The board looked pretty burnt but I cleaned it up as best I could and used a thumbtack to clean the holes and got the new one in. Powered up and it worked! Thank you so much for taking the time to make and post this video!
This video saved me from replacing the whole board. Thanks for sharing! Good tip about using a screwdriver to help pry it out while melting the solder on the other side.
New boards are $1,000 + these days. Hayward has them on sale for $900 so very expensive. I have soldered the K1 many times but as you surmise something is causing that to burn out. Transformer or switch? How do you test the voltage across the yellow wires? Replacing the switch? You skipped that part. And the part #?
I no longer have the board on my system, I ended up replacing my configuration after dealing with it and a amp 0 error. Hayward used to have a PDF on their site that had the voltage outputs for each lead out of the transformer, but I honesty believe it's just a poorly designed board. I can only suggest looking at their site for the PDF and test. Personally I decided to split up my system rather than have one control board, so my pump timers, salt control, solar are all separate.
@@traviscollection6035 I obviously agree with what you said. I have my variable speed pump (new) separate from my system and that has been great. Controlled by a phone app and not dependent on the board. But the rest? Ugh. I'm using chlorine tabs right now. And have to hot wire my heater and change valves manually for spa. Like many Hayward products...poorly designed
I have the same controller and it’s completely dead after a lighting. Any ideas if there is anything obvious to check? Also is this capable to be controlled via internet app?
First to try after a power outrage or surge is a reset of system. Hayward recommends turning off the circuit breaker for 10 minutes and then turn on again to reset.
Travis thanks for the advice and video- know you are helping a lot more people than just those that make comments. As for my specific issue, after soldering once, I replaced the switch per your instruction. It did fix the no cell problem but now I have a no Amp/ppm problem so the chlorinator its still not running. I am willing to look at a potential transformer or capacitor issue before board replacement, but do you have any advice on how to test those or what else the problem may be? Thx
Hey JDB, I thought I replied, sorry. There was someone else that posted the No Amp problem. I couldn't find anything on line about it, but would be curious to find out if its a simple fix or something more complicated. Sadly not everything is as simple as a soldered in switch to repair.
Hi. Thanks for the video. I have a different issue. The timer for the filter pumps is not running the full programmed time of 4 hours it only runs for 15 minutes and then it turns off. Have you come across that issue and what did you do to resolve it?
Totally in No Cell Power hell. I have tried soldering the K1 joint with a friend. No bueno. There is a guy on eBay who says he will fix it for $150. I might do that rather than buy the stuff to unsolder it. I don’t even have a soldering iron and my friend just moved. Thoughts?
Michael J. If soldering K1 didn’t help its possible the switch failed but I would say test your fuse and if comfortable test the transformer outputs. You could end up paying for a replacement that doesn’t solve the problem. Even entire board replacements don’t usually include a transformer. Also make sure your board is the same model. I have a friend with an older board that had a capacitor go bad instead of the switch. Hope this helps
There are many versions of the same board . They end in the letter F, G, or N (maybe more). they all fit and will work up to a point. This fix it guy is for real. Send him a photo first if you want. he will guarantee his work. I bought a used board to fix my problems. But then I will send my old board to him for rejuvenation as a backup
Hey Steve, are you having a hard time finding it on the board or cant buy it from Amazon? On the board its in the upper right area near the power leads. If your board doesn't look like mine at ruclips.net/video/6p7gq3UteYM/видео.html then you probably have a newer or older board. Unfortunately this is the only system I can fully speak to, but I know the older version had a similar issue with capacitors failing, but not the electronic switch.
Are you comfortable with electronics and electricity? There are various reasons why a fuse might pop, such as increased draw or a short. The Hayward website has instructions on how to test the transformer to make sure it hasn't gone bad. I would also check for any damage or cuts in any of your wires. Beyond that you may need to consult an electrician or pool hardware specialist. Hope this helps
Hey Garry, sorry for the delay. Yes, that's the board, but it has multiple part numbers mine being a G version of the part number. However looking at the layouts of the current N version I do not visually see any differences.
That stinks, but hopefully the new ones works well for you. I hate spending more than I need to for pool repairs, but expect eventually I'll have to replace my board, probably sooner than later.
Here you go, the part detail: Omron Relay 24vdc SPDT G8P-1C4P-24VDC NO 20A , NC 10A 250VAC The link in the description still works for me, but if not try this one: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RJ3D2QA?pldnSite=1
Hey Jayson, sorry missed your post. Good call out, and yeah always check the easy stuff first, this video wasn't intended to be a be all solution. Check the fuse, check the transformer, if its the first time check the solder point on the back of the board, have your salt cell tested at a local pool supply company to make sure it hasn't gone bad. Personally I did all of that, my solder point was always the issue, but after redoing it 6 times in a year I got tired of it and didn't want to replace an entire board so was able to just replace this switch.
flux//// and a de-solder tool then flux and solder, it worked but will have issues again. due to the bad solder joints. but if it was made with good solder you would nopt have to be fixing it.... lol found your video looking for specs on a pentiar relay I was thinking of using for pool automation with a pi :) heck my pool doesnt even have a salt cell yet .
I would suggest using the Pro-Logic-Diagnostics pdf found on the Hayward site and test your transformer as a starting point. Its always possible the traces in the board are bad or another part has failed, but its always safest to assume something simple and work your way to more complex solutions. This was just a solution for all of us who had been soldering that part in to fix the burn out that would occur, and were tired of that solution not holding for any length of time. Good luck, if you figure it out feel free to post it here for others to see.
Yeah not shocking. Its really old equipment at this point for a computer board. I replaced my system a couple of years ago. Easier to manage individual controls than a master board sitting outside in the elements. Just glad this video is still helping people. I had others to make but havent had time. Thanks for the comment and view
New Omron Relay 24vdc SPDT G8P-1C4P-24VDC NO 20A, NC 10A 250VAC was the part I bought back in 2016. Not seeing what I purchased back then available, but if you search around you might find an alternative or new version.
To add since I uploaded this video and replaced my switch in September 2016, I have not experienced the No Cell Power issue.
Travis' Collection sir, could you tell me the part to get on amazon so I can order one as well. I too am in Florida, I am in Delray Beach.
Hello Travis, I have the no cell power issue, I want to order the part but I can't seem to find it. What is the specific name of the part that you replaced? Thanks.
@@johnjoy6374 Hey John, I'm sorry just now seeing this, not sure why YT never notified me. The switch details are printed on the top, but the one that I had linked in the detail was this one: Omron Relay 24vdc SPDT G8P-1C4P-24VDC
@@felixelpedes8870 I'm sorry just now seeing this, not sure why YT never notified me. The switch details are printed on the top, but the one that I had linked in the detail was this one: Omron Relay 24vdc SPDT G8P-1C4P-24VDC
This same repair worked for me. After soldering the backside of the circuit board multiple times. I replaced the same relay as Travis. The last few times I tried the solder repair the light was out when I restarted the filter but I heard a clicking noise (probably the bad relay) and the light came back on. After replacing the relay no light. Thanks for the video Travis. It saved me the cost of a new circuit board, now about $650 on Amazon.
Replaced power switch, as instructed, which did the trick! Great instructions. Instead of dealing with removing the malfunctioning switch and soldering in the new one myself, which I bought online as suggested, I called around and found a nearby computer/mobile phone repair shop that did all the work expertly for only $39 plus tax.
A million Thanks. As a woman, even after watching your video, it took me 3 days to get up the courage to remove the motherboard. Your video showed me what a burnt out solder looked like. I used the assistance of my teen Son and showed him how to solder (I work with stained glass). He was great! Put motherboard back and Voila! Check light off and AquaLogic started reading salt levels! Sooooo Happy :)! Many Kudos!
Happy it helped you out!
Who said "Check the fuse?" Thank you. All good. Made my day. Wow.!!
I got the dreaded "No Cell Power 2" error last week and fixing the solder joint on K1 wasn't enough to correct the problem. I came across your video and ordered the relay from Amazon and just got done desoldering the old and installing the new. I'm happy to report that the fix worked like a charm and my salt cell is back on the job and you sir are a steely eyed missile man.
What is the relay part?
Thanks for the video. For everyone else listening , my situation was a little different. My amps and ppl where showing 0’s. I pulled out the motherboard and saw a burnt connection on a different relay. I tried to re-solder , but it did not work. I ended up changing out the top relay on the middle of the motherboard and now it works.
Thanks for the content , saved me from buying a new board !
Hey Corey, great job. Which relay did you update by chance? I have another pool pump motor replacement video I need to put together, but if I'm going to do another I can check out that part as well. I know finding details on these boards can be challenging.
Had this no power problem happen and I first tried the "re-solder the joint" fix. It worked, but I saw your video and ordered the switch just in case. Well 3 weeks later it went again. So I replaced the switch as in your video (the pry with a screwdriver tip was very helpful). The board looked pretty burnt but I cleaned it up as best I could and used a thumbtack to clean the holes and got the new one in. Powered up and it worked! Thank you so much for taking the time to make and post this video!
Thanks for the feedback, glad you were able to replace yours and get it working again.
Thanks for the Video - I was getting ready to pay $780 for the board; seems to be working fine now.
What is this part number for the switch? I have soldered until it won't work any more.
I watched this and one other video. Other than the mosquitoes that ate my face off during the repair, it was a big success.
Lisa Kaye glad to hear it worked
This video saved me from replacing the whole board. Thanks for sharing! Good tip about using a screwdriver to help pry it out while melting the solder on the other side.
New boards are $1,000 + these days. Hayward has them on sale for $900 so very expensive. I have soldered the K1 many times but as you surmise something is causing that to burn out. Transformer or switch? How do you test the voltage across the yellow wires? Replacing the switch? You skipped that part. And the part #?
I no longer have the board on my system, I ended up replacing my configuration after dealing with it and a amp 0 error. Hayward used to have a PDF on their site that had the voltage outputs for each lead out of the transformer, but I honesty believe it's just a poorly designed board. I can only suggest looking at their site for the PDF and test. Personally I decided to split up my system rather than have one control board, so my pump timers, salt control, solar are all separate.
@@traviscollection6035 I obviously agree with what you said. I have my variable speed pump (new) separate from my system and that has been great. Controlled by a phone app and not dependent on the board. But the rest? Ugh. I'm using chlorine tabs right now. And have to hot wire my heater and change valves manually for spa. Like many Hayward products...poorly designed
I have the same controller and it’s completely dead after a lighting. Any ideas if there is anything obvious to check? Also is this capable to be controlled via internet app?
First to try after a power outrage or surge is a reset of system. Hayward recommends turning off the circuit breaker for 10 minutes and then turn on again to reset.
@@rogercohn lol that’s common sense so obviously I did that. That’s Basics
Travis thanks for the advice and video- know you are helping a lot more people than just those that make comments. As for my specific issue, after soldering once, I replaced the switch per your instruction. It did fix the no cell problem but now I have a no Amp/ppm problem so the chlorinator its still not running. I am willing to look at a potential transformer or capacitor issue before board replacement, but do you have any advice on how to test those or what else the problem may be? Thx
Hey JDB, I thought I replied, sorry. There was someone else that posted the No Amp problem. I couldn't find anything on line about it, but would be curious to find out if its a simple fix or something more complicated. Sadly not everything is as simple as a soldered in switch to repair.
Hi. Thanks for the video. I have a different issue. The timer for the filter pumps is not running the full programmed time of 4 hours it only runs for 15 minutes and then it turns off. Have you come across that issue and what did you do to resolve it?
Totally in No Cell Power hell. I have tried soldering the K1 joint with a friend. No bueno. There is a guy on eBay who says he will fix it for $150. I might do that rather than buy the stuff to unsolder it. I don’t even have a soldering iron and my friend just moved. Thoughts?
Michael J. If soldering K1 didn’t help its possible the switch failed but I would say test your fuse and if comfortable test the transformer outputs. You could end up paying for a replacement that doesn’t solve the problem. Even entire board replacements don’t usually include a transformer. Also make sure your board is the same model. I have a friend with an older board that had a capacitor go bad instead of the switch. Hope this helps
There are many versions of the same board . They end in the letter F, G, or N (maybe more). they all fit and will work up to a point. This fix it guy is for real. Send him a photo first if you want. he will guarantee his work. I bought a used board to fix my problems. But then I will send my old board to him for rejuvenation as a backup
Need help finding that switch, been searching on line. No luck
Hey Steve, are you having a hard time finding it on the board or cant buy it from Amazon? On the board its in the upper right area near the power leads. If your board doesn't look like mine at ruclips.net/video/6p7gq3UteYM/видео.html then you probably have a newer or older board. Unfortunately this is the only system I can fully speak to, but I know the older version had a similar issue with capacitors failing, but not the electronic switch.
20A fuse keeps popping, what may be the cause for this?
Are you comfortable with electronics and electricity? There are various reasons why a fuse might pop, such as increased draw or a short. The Hayward website has instructions on how to test the transformer to make sure it hasn't gone bad. I would also check for any damage or cuts in any of your wires. Beyond that you may need to consult an electrician or pool hardware specialist. Hope this helps
Travis' Collection Thanks, I'm replacing the board. Already Purchased it, expecting it soon.
Sorry to hear you had to do that, hopefully you don't have to deal with the same or similar issues! Have a great pool season
In your video is this a Hayward GLX-PCB-MAIN Main PCB board?
Hey Garry, sorry for the delay. Yes, that's the board, but it has multiple part numbers mine being a G version of the part number. However looking at the layouts of the current N version I do not visually see any differences.
Wish I had seen this video a couple weeks ago when I was troubleshooting. I went ahead and bought a new circupool chlorinator system.
That stinks, but hopefully the new ones works well for you. I hate spending more than I need to for pool repairs, but expect eventually I'll have to replace my board, probably sooner than later.
Can't find it on Amazon
Here you go, the part detail: Omron Relay 24vdc SPDT G8P-1C4P-24VDC NO 20A , NC 10A 250VAC The link in the description still works for me, but if not try this one: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RJ3D2QA?pldnSite=1
The other thing I would look at is the 20 amp fuse that is to the right of the board. All I had to do was replace the fuse and it fixed it for me. :)
Hey Jayson, sorry missed your post. Good call out, and yeah always check the easy stuff first, this video wasn't intended to be a be all solution. Check the fuse, check the transformer, if its the first time check the solder point on the back of the board, have your salt cell tested at a local pool supply company to make sure it hasn't gone bad. Personally I did all of that, my solder point was always the issue, but after redoing it 6 times in a year I got tired of it and didn't want to replace an entire board so was able to just replace this switch.
soldering the K1 is fine but it burns out for a reason. Eventually you gotta fix the cause not the result
flux//// and a de-solder tool then flux and solder, it worked but will have issues again. due to the bad solder joints. but if it was made with good solder you would nopt have to be fixing it.... lol found your video looking for specs on a pentiar relay I was thinking of using for pool automation with a pi :) heck my pool doesnt even have a salt cell yet .
replaced the relay, after filter delay, hear a relay switch click. then No Cell power appears again
I would suggest using the Pro-Logic-Diagnostics pdf found on the Hayward site and test your transformer as a starting point. Its always possible the traces in the board are bad or another part has failed, but its always safest to assume something simple and work your way to more complex solutions.
This was just a solution for all of us who had been soldering that part in to fix the burn out that would occur, and were tired of that solution not holding for any length of time. Good luck, if you figure it out feel free to post it here for others to see.
@@traviscollection6035 thanks, for the procedure, need replace the entire board
$1000 now. Over 100% increase from just 8 years ago.
Yeah not shocking. Its really old equipment at this point for a computer board. I replaced my system a couple of years ago. Easier to manage individual controls than a master board sitting outside in the elements. Just glad this video is still helping people. I had others to make but havent had time. Thanks for the comment and view
Thank you
FYI........stop saying ahaa, so many times.....
Thanks for the feedback
but thanks for the info, it worked....cheers!
ahaa
What’s the part number for the piece you installed?
New Omron Relay 24vdc SPDT G8P-1C4P-24VDC NO 20A, NC 10A 250VAC was the part I bought back in 2016. Not seeing what I purchased back then available, but if you search around you might find an alternative or new version.