I just hacked it. The unit always seems to drift to a low salt reading and the cell shuts down. My trick was simple. When in the diagnostic menu do the option to get the instant salt reading. I may need to do a video. The unit has a timer count down and starts the cell. In my case went from a high of 3600 down to 2200. It then ask you to save the reading however it's going to be too low to work. The hack is to run it again and immediately do the following to capture the higher reading. As soon as it cuts on (after timer elapsed ends) instantly hit the arrow forward button (>) and immediately the + button. The longer you wait the lower it will capture. I captured 3500 which was the correct number. Now it works. Today. Results may vary
It really does vary but in Arizona in the peak months it's 100%. In the cooler months when people aren't swimming it's usually 40%. But you really need to play with it to see what's best for your pool.
I've not found that feature to work very well on my client's pools. The liquid chlorine just gets into the water faster and raises the chlorine level faster as well.
Yesterday I had salt put in my pool and the salt chlorination was enable. Later that night, I checked my salt water and there was no chlorine. So I did some research and this morning I set my pool chlorination to 60% and the spa to 3%, but most importantly, I decided to turn on the super chlorinator for 24hrs to shock the pool bc I know there was 8 bags of salt added to my pool yesterday for the startup. At 3:30 pm, I tested the water, and the chlorine was good and the salt level was at 3100ppm. So I turned off the super chlorinator and turned on the pool chlorinator for 60% and the spa for 3%. Tonight the salt level is at 3200ppm. Tomorrow I have to get stabilizer and regulate the ph and alkalinity. I am opened to suggestions to manage those in expensively and effectively. I wrote this to share my experience and hopefully convince people to explore that feature. I understand that your pool guy can’t stay there to monitor that process and they do what they are sure will work and save them an additional trip. Lastly, thank you pool school for the other teachings that you share with us today.
You may have a bad cell or cell sensor. Or your "mother board" may be bad. Best thing to do is contact the manufacturer of your system and get a referral for a certified tech for their brand and have him/her come out and diagnose the issue. We just had this happen with a client of mine turned out the motherboard and cell were both bad. (worn out over time).
Thanks for your content. Very helpful and I have subscribed. Our pool is quite small so a 5% increment is often too much. I believe I once found a way to change the % single digits at a time. Is that finer adjustment possibly in the locked config menu? Thanks.
@@jeffcasterella8461 ah my apologies. Unfortunately, I do not know how to do that. I have a basic knowledge of that type of system as only one of my clients has one and we have since overridden it because they did not care for the way the system continually failed to perform.
You can just set the output to zero or you can buy a bypass sleeve for the cell (here's a link to a video I did on that: ruclips.net/video/hI_o9hzePcY/видео.htmlsi=H64SjnB1C7lxJ9v9)
Typically that’s due to a bad sensor. And most of the time that sensor is not integrated into the cell itself it’s separate and cord plugged“ into the piping elsewhere. So chances are if you can replace that sensor you might get an accurate reading.
Sounds like either the mother board is shot. I'd suggest contact Hayward and find a certified repair person for their product in your area and have them come out and diagnose the issue so that way you're not going down a bunch of rabbit trails. You'll save yourself a lot of time and frustration.
@Rayson Sanchez: To save you money, pull out the motherboard and check to see if there’s any soldering burn-outs on the back. If you see one or more, try re-soldering it/them to see if it fixes your problem.
Hi Kenny, thank you for all your videos. I’ve been able to take good care of my pool thanks to them. Can you please talk about Stonescapes plaster? I had my plaster done and the pool guy didn’t acid wash or fill it up until the 4th day so the plaster cracked. Somehow Stonescapes said they will warranty the work but told me if I make any mistakes treating the water they will void the warranty. It’s been a nightmare. Thanks in advance.
Hi there and thank you for your comment. I am not familiar with stone scapes Plaster, but unless it’s a special type of product my guess is it should be treated like any other plaster pool. So my videos on testing your pool water and adding chlorine and adjusting the alkalinity and adjusting the pH of your pool and many of my other videos on my channel should be sufficient. Let me know if there is a specific topic or topics you want to know about and I can send you direct links to them.
I have a Hayward heater that is connected to an Aquaplus controller. Could please tell me how to configure the aqua plus controller so that it only turns on the heater when the spa is turned on and turns it off when pool is selected? Also on the heater should the mode be standby or spa or pool?
I’m sorry, unfortunately I have no experience with the Hayward heaters because in my area of Arizona it’s just not cost-effective to heat a pool in the winter months and there’s really no need to heat them in the summer months because it’s so hot. Wish I could be of more help.
It's hard to explain in a response so here's a link to the Hayward manual for that unit go to page 22 to the heading Set the Chlorinator Output and that should talk you through the steps. Heres a link to that manual online: www.luxurypoolsandliving.com/images/manuals/aqua-logic-automation-and-chlorination-manual.pdf
I’m sorry to hear that, I know that’s frustrating. Sadly, a lot of these manufacturers, including Hayward upgrade and modify their products over the years to hopefully improve them so there are variations in them over the years. I would recommend possibly contacting Hayward themselves and having them send out a specific rep who is certified on their systems and for a single visit, they should be able to help you with your issue.
How do you get it to recognize that you have just put 800 pounds of salt in the pool. I have six clients that want this removed becuase it doesn't work.
I feel ya. Another reason I'm not a fan of salt systems (including this one). The sensors that are suppose to sense the flow and salt levels so often go bad AND when they do they often are set to override the cell and it won't produce. I believe the flow sensor is the same as the salt sensor and you should be able to replace it. It's usually attached to the one of the pipes.
Hey it will be my first time to open my pool after was professional winterize, can you please hide me through I’m lost on this! I can’t find any He also had to re-open my pool! TIA
This exact system im having problems with the timer date and time are going haywire after someone put a heater installed at this pool, so now the pool goes on and right off. The pump runs fine but I can't see the salt intake or anything can you help me??
Do you have a variable speed pump? I ask because sometimes the variable speed pump has its own timer and that’s what you use in which case he would just no longer use the control panel. If the pool pump is turning on and then almost immediately shuts off sounds like there might be a loose connection or a capacitor that’s out. Maybe when they wired the heater to the system they loosen something up. It would be hard for me to comment on it without actually being there and seeing it myself. Sorry
I notice that the salt level on my pro-logic does not match the reading I get when I have my water tested at the pool store. When I test it using my salinity test is is right. Any thoughts on why there is a difference. Also for clarity the salt cell only produces chlorine is does not produce more salt is this a correct assessment
So are you saying that the reading on your ProLogic matches the reading on your salinity tester or are you saying that the reading you get from the pool store is the same as your salinity tester? Also, you are correct the salt cell does not produce more salt, rather it converts the salt into a usable form of sanitizer that mimics chlorine.
Yeah, It's hard to know. I've found the salt technology doesn't hold up too well in the Arizona heat. I hope that it will evolve and become at least more durable.
The option valve is usually connected to a automatic valve in your system that sometimes controls things like Jacuzzis or water features etc. If your pool is not equipped with some type of valve like that it probably is not functioning you can always check by pushing that button and seeing if any of your valves move automatically. And it’s pretty easy to tell if you have an automatic valve it’s a very big black box that the valve itself sits on top plumbed into the plumbing.
Hi Kenny Thank you so much for sharing your video I really liked it, I do have a couple of questions for you I did try to email you but apparently that email is no longer working. So my question to you is can you help me set my timer. That would be great thank you so much
Hi Kenny, i just replaced my Hayward T cell 15 & need to reconfigure it on my PL- P- 4. Can you show me how? The instructions say to go to the Configuration menu, and push > until chlor config is displayed. I press it and nothing happens. Help!!
What you just said is what I do as well. Not sure why nothing is happening. Honestly it's another reason I don't care for salt systems. Too many things can and do go wrong. You may need a new "mother board" for the system. I've had a few of them go bad in the past. I'd suggest contacting Hayward and have them send a rep out to trouble shoot it.
Great video Thanks for sharing- I press my menu button and nothing happens- It doesnt beep or anything- I have a hayword system aqua plus- the mother board looks just like the one you are using- Do I need a new motherboard? are they hard to install? Thanks in advance. My system is about 7 years old
How do you reset the salt calibration or reading..my aqua plus won't generate chlorine because it's reading very low salt, but test strips show it's at 4000 ppm. Please help..thnx !
Sounds like your flow sensor/salt sensor is bad, typically on those you cannot calibrate them they are factory calibrated. If you’re sensor is reading very low salt it is basically shutting itself off you probably need to replace your flow sensor or salt sensor
I have a very tiny pool with a system like this and a salt cell. What should the output be set at? It’s been testing high on chlorine around 4.0+? Thanks love your videos 👍🏼
It’s hard to make a hard fast suggestion since it’s a parents on your current air temperature, pool water temperature, use of the pool, vegetation around the pool etc. Typically if it’s running for .0 right now you might want to just dial it down a bit maybe 10% less then you have it set out right now and then adjust as needed. Testing your pool chemistry weekly specifically your chlorine will help you make those adjustments. Unfortunately it’s not a “one and done“ thing. That’s why I suggest weekly maintenance on a pool which includes brushing the sides, emptying skimmer and pump baskets, testing in balance in chemistry. And depending on the type of filter you have filter maintenance. For more do it yourself pool stuff including weekly, monthly, and seasonal pool specific checklists and priority access to me please check out my website poolschooler.com
Do you have a time clock as well? Sometimes when there are multiple "timers" ie: one like the aqua link and one on the pump itself or even a time clock that can mess things up. If not I'd get the company to send out a tech to trouble shoot the control panel to see why it's acting that way.
I used salt solutions Inc in Tampa FL several times. They charge 185.00 and you send them your old 1. Comes with a 1 year warranty. I've also but 2 rebuilt salt sells from them for way less than a new one and got just as many years out of it.
Turn Salt System Off and On With the pump running, take the power switch down to the “Off” position, and then back up to “Auto”. You should hear a click within 10 or 15 seconds. When you do, press the diagnostic button five times in a row. The system will go through a recalibration process.
It can actually mean several things I would suggest looking at the owners manual or users manual for your particular type of salt system. It can mean that your salt level is too high it can mean that there is a blockage in your sold sell it can mean you were salt cell is about to fail and on it’s last legs, it can mean there is something wrong with your sending unit. So because of that I would look at your owners manual for your particular salt system and you can probably get a more specific diagnosis.
@@PoolSchooler I've been searching and searching for how to recalibrate the salt level indicator on a Pro Logic ad well. Haven't found anything in many weeks of looking. Cleaned the cell, shut down and restarted the controller, been through all the menu options... nothing works. Been reading 500 ppm lower than the pool store all season... their other customers are reporting consistent results with their readings. I've been making chlorine, and no extreme issues, but when it drops to about 2200 ppm reading (2700 ppm actual) it turns off the salt cell and throws an error message. Real annoying. Plus, the pool store has to choose whether to input the real salt level or my reading when analyzing what other chemicals I need to add for Ph, alkalinity, etc.
@@fresso92 it’s very possible that the motherboard is out I just had another client had the same issue could not get the sensor or anything to calibrate and they ended up having to replace not only the cell but also the motherboard
@@PoolSchooler Thanks for the info. It sure could be the motherboard... I had a problem with it this spring. Almost can't remember the specifics... but was having a problem with a "fix" well documented on various RUclips"s that can be made with a single point of solder on the board. I did that, and it worked like a charm, saved me having to replace the board (at least for this season...). And, I'm guessing that solder fix is close enough to when the salt level calibration got messed up. It's perfectly consistent at -600 ppm from accurate. So long as I keep it high enough, I just get an annoying "low salt" warning, nothing else. But, I really wanted to trick it... a few hours ago, after reading about many more with the same problem, I found a quick fix: I changed the Cell Type in the Configuration Menu from a T-15 (the actual cell) to a T-9 (the smaller size). The reading went from 2000 ppm to 3000 ppm. The actual is about 2600 ppm. I added a bit of salt to get to a T-9 reading of 3200 ppm, which I equate to a real level of ~2800 ppm. At least with the reading incorrectly high, my cell won't turn off for a low salt error. Not sure what other problems I may be causing, but if the motherboard is shot anyway, then every day of tricking it is one more day I can go before replacing it. Interesting dilemma... thanks for your reply and your helpful videos!
hi , nice video, i noticed a few people asking how to recalibrate the salt cell if you could tell us that would be great, i cant find it anywhere, mine is at 0000 i accidently saved it to that and now it wont read it seams like, please advise if you could, thank you very much!
I’ve looked into it and checked with several other full-service pros and my supplier and they’re all telling me that it is not possible to calibrate that particular unit. If that is the case, it is yet another reason why I don’t particularly care for salt systems. Until they get the technology more figured out and longer lasting I just don’t think they’re worth the money or the hassle.
@@PoolSchooler thanks alot for your time i really appreciate it, thats what i was wondering if there was a way or not, my pool salt is 3200 which is perfect(i had it tested) but my aquaplus says its only 1900 and my cell is off, very low salt it says. my cell is only 2 years old should be fine? thanks again for your time and prompt answer.
@@cyborg1117 Unfortunately the sensors on many of those product are simply not reliable. I'd suggest getting a salinity tester so you can know what the salinity really is.
@@PoolSchooler yes thanks i had it tested at my local pool place its fine at 3200, but my system only says 2000 or very low salt and my cell wont turn on until 2700..
I put a new motherboard in my aqua logic system and it will not read my salt system. How do I recalibrate the program pad? The settings section does not show me the pool chlorinator. Can I call you?
What is the % I should have the cell at
Been looking for this video on this specific system. Thanks!
I just hacked it. The unit always seems to drift to a low salt reading and the cell shuts down. My trick was simple. When in the diagnostic menu do the option to get the instant salt reading. I may need to do a video. The unit has a timer count down and starts the cell. In my case went from a high of 3600 down to 2200. It then ask you to save the reading however it's going to be too low to work.
The hack is to run it again and immediately do the following to capture the higher reading. As soon as it cuts on (after timer elapsed ends) instantly hit the arrow forward button (>) and immediately the + button. The longer you wait the lower it will capture. I captured 3500 which was the correct number. Now it works.
Today.
Results may vary
@@timbo737700 good to know, thanks for sharing. And yes, you should do a video on this. It would be very helpful for others.
What’s a ideal chlorinator percentage
It really does vary but in Arizona in the peak months it's 100%. In the cooler months when people aren't swimming it's usually 40%. But you really need to play with it to see what's best for your pool.
Hey dude can you explain how to set up solar valves and temps
Chlorine is not cheap, WHY would you not use Super Chlorinate instead?
I've not found that feature to work very well on my client's pools. The liquid chlorine just gets into the water faster and raises the chlorine level faster as well.
Yesterday I had salt put in my pool and the salt chlorination was enable. Later that night, I checked my salt water and there was no chlorine. So I did some research and this morning I set my pool chlorination to 60% and the spa to 3%, but most importantly, I decided to turn on the super chlorinator for 24hrs to shock the pool bc I know there was 8 bags of salt added to my pool yesterday for the startup. At 3:30 pm, I tested the water, and the chlorine was good and the salt level was at 3100ppm. So I turned off the super chlorinator and turned on the pool chlorinator for 60% and the spa for 3%. Tonight the salt level is at 3200ppm.
Tomorrow I have to get stabilizer and regulate the ph and alkalinity. I am opened to suggestions to manage those in expensively and effectively.
I wrote this to share my experience and hopefully convince people to explore that feature. I understand that your pool guy can’t stay there to monitor that process and they do what they are sure will work and save them an additional trip.
Lastly, thank you pool school for the other teachings that you share with us today.
You may have a bad cell or cell sensor. Or your "mother board" may be bad. Best thing to do is contact the manufacturer of your system and get a referral for a certified tech for their brand and have him/her come out and diagnose the issue. We just had this happen with a client of mine turned out the motherboard and cell were both bad. (worn out over time).
Back to chlorine…. Bwahahaha
Thanks for your content. Very helpful and I have subscribed. Our pool is quite small so a 5% increment is often too much. I believe I once found a way to change the % single digits at a time. Is that finer adjustment possibly in the locked config menu? Thanks.
Thanks for subscribing and thank you for the comment.
@@PoolSchooler do you know the answer to my question above? thanks.
@@jeffcasterella8461 ah my apologies. Unfortunately, I do not know how to do that. I have a basic knowledge of that type of system as only one of my clients has one and we have since overridden it because they did not care for the way the system continually failed to perform.
Nevermind got it
How can I turn off the salt cell to convert the pool from salt to chlorine?
You can just set the output to zero or you can buy a bypass sleeve for the cell (here's a link to a video I did on that: ruclips.net/video/hI_o9hzePcY/видео.htmlsi=H64SjnB1C7lxJ9v9)
Why did the owners switch? I'm getting the same low / no salt reading and can't figure out why...changed the cell and still reading as zero
Typically that’s due to a bad sensor. And most of the time that sensor is not integrated into the cell itself it’s separate and cord plugged“ into the piping elsewhere. So chances are if you can replace that sensor you might get an accurate reading.
@@PoolSchooler Thanks, will try that before converting or replacing the board.
How to Adjust filter running ?. I press filter button and after one minute is go off. please let me know Thank you !
My pro-logic is reading chlorinator off and high temp and won’t kick on. Any ideas?
Sounds like either the mother board is shot. I'd suggest contact Hayward and find a certified repair person for their product in your area and have them come out and diagnose the issue so that way you're not going down a bunch of rabbit trails. You'll save yourself a lot of time and frustration.
@Rayson Sanchez: To save you money, pull out the motherboard and check to see if there’s any soldering burn-outs on the back. If you see one or more, try re-soldering it/them to see if it fixes your problem.
@@O_MegaS Great info. Thanks for sharing this.
Do you have an email?
kennypoolschool@gmail.com
My AquaRite didn’t show screen .How to fix it ?
Good video. Thnaks
You're welcome. Hope you'll subscribe.
Hi Kenny, thank you for all your videos. I’ve been able to take good care of my pool thanks to them. Can you please talk about Stonescapes plaster? I had my plaster done and the pool guy didn’t acid wash or fill it up until the 4th day so the plaster cracked. Somehow Stonescapes said they will warranty the work but told me if I make any mistakes treating the water they will void the warranty. It’s been a nightmare. Thanks in advance.
Hi there and thank you for your comment. I am not familiar with stone scapes Plaster, but unless it’s a special type of product my guess is it should be treated like any other plaster pool. So my videos on testing your pool water and adding chlorine and adjusting the alkalinity and adjusting the pH of your pool and many of my other videos on my channel should be sufficient. Let me know if there is a specific topic or topics you want to know about and I can send you direct links to them.
I have a Hayward heater that is connected to an Aquaplus controller. Could please tell me how to configure the aqua plus controller so that it only turns on the heater when the spa is turned on and turns it off when pool is selected? Also on the heater should the mode be standby or spa or pool?
I’m sorry, unfortunately I have no experience with the Hayward heaters because in my area of Arizona it’s just not cost-effective to heat a pool in the winter months and there’s really no need to heat them in the summer months because it’s so hot. Wish I could be of more help.
Mine says chlorinator off. How do I turn it on?
It's hard to explain in a response so here's a link to the Hayward manual for that unit go to page 22 to the heading Set the Chlorinator Output and that should talk you through the steps. Heres a link to that manual online: www.luxurypoolsandliving.com/images/manuals/aqua-logic-automation-and-chlorination-manual.pdf
Thank I will try.
Need your HELP!!!!! my filter pump continously runs, even when Heyward control board shows filter is off. What can be causing this??? HELP ME KENNY!!
Sounds like a faulty control panel or switch on the pump. I'd get a tech out to check and fix it.
There is not choice for chlorinator for me, very frustrating. Using your video and the book.
I’m sorry to hear that, I know that’s frustrating. Sadly, a lot of these manufacturers, including Hayward upgrade and modify their products over the years to hopefully improve them so there are variations in them over the years. I would recommend possibly contacting Hayward themselves and having them send out a specific rep who is certified on their systems and for a single visit, they should be able to help you with your issue.
How do you get it to recognize that you have just put 800 pounds of salt in the pool. I have six clients that want this removed becuase it doesn't work.
I feel ya. Another reason I'm not a fan of salt systems (including this one). The sensors that are suppose to sense the flow and salt levels so often go bad AND when they do they often are set to override the cell and it won't produce. I believe the flow sensor is the same as the salt sensor and you should be able to replace it. It's usually attached to the one of the pipes.
Hey it will be my first time to open my pool after was professional winterize, can you please hide me through I’m lost on this! I can’t find any He also had to re-open my pool! TIA
Unfortunately I don't have experience winterizing a pool since in Arizona we just don't winterize our pools. I'm so sorry.
You lost me at the end
Can you be more specific as to exactly where? Maybe I can clarify for you.
This exact system im having problems with the timer date and time are going haywire after someone put a heater installed at this pool, so now the pool goes on and right off. The pump runs fine but I can't see the salt intake or anything can you help me??
Do you have a variable speed pump? I ask because sometimes the variable speed pump has its own timer and that’s what you use in which case he would just no longer use the control panel. If the pool pump is turning on and then almost immediately shuts off sounds like there might be a loose connection or a capacitor that’s out. Maybe when they wired the heater to the system they loosen something up. It would be hard for me to comment on it without actually being there and seeing it myself. Sorry
I notice that the salt level on my pro-logic does not match the reading I get when I have my water tested at the pool store. When I test it using my salinity test is is right. Any thoughts on why there is a difference. Also for clarity the salt cell only produces chlorine is does not produce more salt is this a correct assessment
So are you saying that the reading on your ProLogic matches the reading on your salinity tester or are you saying that the reading you get from the pool store is the same as your salinity tester?
Also, you are correct the salt cell does not produce more salt, rather it converts the salt into a usable form of sanitizer that mimics chlorine.
Why they in the world would they go back to chlorine? Salt is supposed to be better / less maintenance, no?
Yeah, It's hard to know. I've found the salt technology doesn't hold up too well in the Arizona heat. I hope that it will evolve and become at least more durable.
Thanks
You’re welcome. Hope you will subscribe to my channel and share it with others.
The key pad says the Configuration Menu-locked
This video might help. ruclips.net/video/-HNwbdaozsg/видео.htmlfeature=shared
Can you tell me what it means when the "Option Valve" green light is lit solid. Thank you.
The option valve is usually connected to a automatic valve in your system that sometimes controls things like Jacuzzis or water features etc. If your pool is not equipped with some type of valve like that it probably is not functioning you can always check by pushing that button and seeing if any of your valves move automatically. And it’s pretty easy to tell if you have an automatic valve it’s a very big black box that the valve itself sits on top plumbed into the plumbing.
Hi Kenny
Thank you so much for sharing your video I really liked it, I do have a couple of questions for you I did try to email you but apparently that email is no longer working. So my question to you is can you help me set my timer. That would be great thank you so much
Not sure about the email. I get emails every day from that address. kennypoolschool@gmail.com so it's working.
What type is it.
Hi Kenny, i just replaced my Hayward T cell 15 & need to reconfigure it on my PL- P- 4. Can you show me how? The instructions say to go to the Configuration menu, and push > until chlor config is displayed. I press it and nothing happens. Help!!
What you just said is what I do as well. Not sure why nothing is happening. Honestly it's another reason I don't care for salt systems. Too many things can and do go wrong. You may need a new "mother board" for the system. I've had a few of them go bad in the past.
I'd suggest contacting Hayward and have them send a rep out to trouble shoot it.
@@PoolSchooler ok, thanks Kenny. I have had my salt system for 5 years and never had a problem :-(
How long does it take for a why is there a pool pump strainer
Great video Thanks for sharing- I press my menu button and nothing happens- It doesnt beep or anything- I have a hayword system aqua plus- the mother board looks just like the one you are using- Do I need a new motherboard? are they hard to install?
Thanks in advance. My system is about 7 years old
If pushing the button does nothing then you may have a bad mother board and yes it may need to be replaced.
How do you reset the salt calibration or reading..my aqua plus won't generate chlorine because it's reading very low salt, but test strips show it's at 4000 ppm. Please help..thnx !
Sounds like your flow sensor/salt sensor is bad, typically on those you cannot calibrate them they are factory calibrated. If you’re sensor is reading very low salt it is basically shutting itself off you probably need to replace your flow sensor or salt sensor
Mine is doing the same thing!!
I have a very tiny pool with a system like this and a salt cell. What should the output be set at? It’s been testing high on chlorine around 4.0+? Thanks love your videos 👍🏼
It’s hard to make a hard fast suggestion since it’s a parents on your current air temperature, pool water temperature, use of the pool, vegetation around the pool etc. Typically if it’s running for .0 right now you might want to just dial it down a bit maybe 10% less then you have it set out right now and then adjust as needed. Testing your pool chemistry weekly specifically your chlorine will help you make those adjustments. Unfortunately it’s not a “one and done“ thing. That’s why I suggest weekly maintenance on a pool which includes brushing the sides, emptying skimmer and pump baskets, testing in balance in chemistry. And depending on the type of filter you have filter maintenance.
For more do it yourself pool stuff including weekly, monthly, and seasonal pool specific checklists and priority access to me please check out my website poolschooler.com
What is happening when my system is not following what the timers are set for
Do you have a time clock as well? Sometimes when there are multiple "timers" ie: one like the aqua link and one on the pump itself or even a time clock that can mess things up. If not I'd get the company to send out a tech to trouble shoot the control panel to see why it's acting that way.
I think I need to send you a video to tell you how to operate this
I would really love it if you could do that. If you have a link to it, I will put a link in the description of this video.
how do I calibrate hayward aqua plus salt system
Honestly if you do a Google search and look up exactly that it will tell you how to do it far better than I can. Because it’s from the manufacture.
Is there a way to schedule and program the underwater pool lights to turn on and off from my Aqua Plus control board?
Honestly I'm not sure. I'd suggest referring to the manual.
Hi Kenny I am looking for someone to repair my pcb board on this same model any recommendation plz
I used salt solutions Inc in Tampa FL several times. They charge 185.00 and you send them your old 1. Comes with a 1 year warranty. I've also but 2 rebuilt salt sells from them for way less than a new one and got just as many years out of it.
Can you show me how to recalibrate a Hayward Aqua plus system?
Turn Salt System Off and On
With the pump running, take the power switch down to the “Off” position, and then back up to “Auto”. You should hear a click within 10 or 15 seconds. When you do, press the diagnostic button five times in a row. The system will go through a recalibration process.
@@PoolSchooler I have a Hayward plus not a pro. I don't see the switches you are talking about
@@tbnice9999 If you can email me pics of your system especially your master panel I can comment more accurately. kennypoolschool@gmail.com
what happens when the menu button no longer works?
Usually that requires a tech to come out and replace the "mother board".
What does it mean high salt amperage
It can actually mean several things I would suggest looking at the owners manual or users manual for your particular type of salt system. It can mean that your salt level is too high it can mean that there is a blockage in your sold sell it can mean you were salt cell is about to fail and on it’s last legs, it can mean there is something wrong with your sending unit. So because of that I would look at your owners manual for your particular salt system and you can probably get a more specific diagnosis.
Hey Kenny, can you show me how to recalibrate my salt cell? I have this same exact system. Thanks! Rob
If you do A Google search to “how to recalibrate a Hayward pro logic salt system“ it will give you a very simple way to do it.
@@PoolSchooler I've been searching and searching for how to recalibrate the salt level indicator on a Pro Logic ad well. Haven't found anything in many weeks of looking. Cleaned the cell, shut down and restarted the controller, been through all the menu options... nothing works. Been reading 500 ppm lower than the pool store all season... their other customers are reporting consistent results with their readings. I've been making chlorine, and no extreme issues, but when it drops to about 2200 ppm reading (2700 ppm actual) it turns off the salt cell and throws an error message. Real annoying. Plus, the pool store has to choose whether to input the real salt level or my reading when analyzing what other chemicals I need to add for Ph, alkalinity, etc.
@@fresso92 it’s very possible that the motherboard is out I just had another client had the same issue could not get the sensor or anything to calibrate and they ended up having to replace not only the cell but also the motherboard
@@PoolSchooler Thanks for the info. It sure could be the motherboard... I had a problem with it this spring. Almost can't remember the specifics... but was having a problem with a "fix" well documented on various RUclips"s that can be made with a single point of solder on the board. I did that, and it worked like a charm, saved me having to replace the board (at least for this season...).
And, I'm guessing that solder fix is close enough to when the salt level calibration got messed up. It's perfectly consistent at -600 ppm from accurate. So long as I keep it high enough, I just get an annoying "low salt" warning, nothing else.
But, I really wanted to trick it... a few hours ago, after reading about many more with the same problem, I found a quick fix: I changed the Cell Type in the Configuration Menu from a T-15 (the actual cell) to a T-9 (the smaller size). The reading went from 2000 ppm to 3000 ppm. The actual is about 2600 ppm. I added a bit of salt to get to a T-9 reading of 3200 ppm, which I equate to a real level of ~2800 ppm.
At least with the reading incorrectly high, my cell won't turn off for a low salt error.
Not sure what other problems I may be causing, but if the motherboard is shot anyway, then every day of tricking it is one more day I can go before replacing it.
Interesting dilemma... thanks for your reply and your helpful videos!
How do we recalibrate the salt reading?
Kathleen Steele there should be a calibration option on your system.
Pool School I have the Aqua Plus with Aquapod system. All I could do is reset the average salt reading. Can you make a video about it?
Kathleen Steele I will work on one.
hi , nice video, i noticed a few people asking how to recalibrate the salt cell if you could tell us that would be great, i cant find it anywhere, mine is at 0000 i accidently saved it to that and now it wont read it seams like, please advise if you could, thank you very much!
I’ve looked into it and checked with several other full-service pros and my supplier and they’re all telling me that it is not possible to calibrate that particular unit. If that is the case, it is yet another reason why I don’t particularly care for salt systems. Until they get the technology more figured out and longer lasting I just don’t think they’re worth the money or the hassle.
@@PoolSchooler thanks alot for your time i really appreciate it, thats what i was wondering if there was a way or not, my pool salt is 3200 which is perfect(i had it tested) but my aquaplus says its only 1900 and my cell is off, very low salt it says. my cell is only 2 years old should be fine? thanks again for your time and prompt answer.
@@cyborg1117 Unfortunately the sensors on many of those product are simply not reliable. I'd suggest getting a salinity tester so you can know what the salinity really is.
@@PoolSchooler yes thanks i had it tested at my local pool place its fine at 3200, but my system only says 2000 or very low salt and my cell wont turn on until 2700..
@@cyborg1117 Sounds like a bad sensor. You might be able to have that replaced.
How do recalibrate the t15 salt cell with a aqua logic system
I put a new motherboard in my aqua logic system and it will not read my salt system. How do I recalibrate the program pad? The settings section does not show me
the pool chlorinator. Can I call you?