How to Repair Hayward Goldline Aqua Rite Pool Chlorine Generators
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- Опубликовано: 21 дек 2024
- Quick vid showing how to fix the classic thermistor inrush current limiter burnout problem that plagues these units. A simple fix as you can see if you know what you are doing.
Hi buddy - just wanted to say thank you! Saved me hundreds of $$. An electronics expert I am not - I haven’t soldered anything since high school. For $17 I bought a cheap soldering iron and a couple of thermistors. Managed to fix it in less than an hour thanks to your video. The internet is a beautiful thing!! 👍 thanks again - u rock!
Was on the phone with Hayward service support and they were no help. Saw your video and replaced my thermistor and it solved my problem. Thanks for posting this awesome video!
No doubt...they know the problem exists. The Jacuzzi/Carvin variant of this system even says in the trouble shooting manual that the thermistor may need to be replaced.
Glad the vid helped
I just want to add my two cents on this video. It saved me hundreds of dollars NOT having to purchase a new mother board. You should be commented for sharing this information with all of use. If I new where you lived, I would buy you a bottle of wine! Thank you & thank you so much.
Thanks for your time in producing this video. My 13 year old Goldline SWG control board failed last night. Standing front of the enclosure in 90 degree sun and high humidity, I knew that I was in for some uncomfortable troubleshooting today with my Fluke multimeter. Your video let me to the exact problem…Yep the thermistor was split. I wouldn’t have noticed it at first without you. I just ordered it from Mouser 2 day Fedex. Again, thanks a bunch! :)
Thanks man. I thought I was going to have to replace the entire unit till I saw your video. Did exactly what you said and system is running perfect. Much appreciated
Many thanks, just followed this and the fix cost me $6 and an hour of my day! You save me $$$ hundreds.
Glad it helped!
Just completed my repair😀 I ordered a soldering kit and replacement thermistor from Amazon. And I able to replace the part with this video and a few others that I saw. Two year ago it cost me 500 dollars to replace the board via a pool service. My total cost today was twenty dollars Thank you !! P.S I had also just replaced the salt cell at a cost of $375 and the board when bad. Total cost of $395 to be ready for the summer heat🏊🏻🏊🏻🏊🏻🏊🏻.👍👍👍👏👏👏
Awesome instructions. Worked perfectly on a 15 year old system. Thanks for the detailed description
Just wanted to say thank you so much for posting this video - just finished up my repair & works perfectly !!
Thank you very much for taking the time to do the video. I just finished doing mine and it worked as advertised.
I really enjoyed your sense of humor. Seriously, bro.
Lol what did I say that was so funny? I tend to just ramble on in these videos
@@QuaabQueb you did a little bit of Bevis and Butthead. I laughed my ass off.
Great video. Replaced mine several times. Do they make one more heat tolerant?
Thank you ! Worked for me. Taking picture of the connected board before disassembly helped though markings are also good. Great money savings. Hayward Tech support guy recommended to replace entire board (about 200$ at amazon) while ordering two of those resistors cost about 14$ mostly due to s&h.
Ya of course they want to sell you a new board lol
Thanks for the tip. You saved me about $192. The fix worked perfectly.
So if the power light in my unite it’s off this is the problem?
No. That's a different problem that's much harder to find, but I've done it.
Awesome video! Very detailed, and easy to follow. Thank you very much.
Just did this, $13 fix for a $400 problem.
Get a solder gun if you have the blue board with silver blocks around the current limiter.
Thanks for the post.
Does this circuit board not working cause algae in the pool? I replaced mine yesterday and the display still shows 0. It had power prior and showed 0 also, but does not allow me to recalibrate. It doesn't click after 10 seconds.
You just saved me $800.00 for a new system - soldered in the part and....PERFECT!!
Sounds like my problem and how to fix it. I will go open the box and inspect the thermistor. I suck at soldering.....but will have to try it!!!!!! THANKS..... do you have the exact part #?
Great repair vid!
I just repaired mine and it seems to be working great. I found the piece really hard to remove. I went and bought a more powerful gun and it was still tough. I run you do need a larger soldering iron like you have in the video and maybe somebody that can pull the thermistor out. Soldering it back in was the easy part and I used my smaller iron for that
Indeed. It is a huge glob of solder. Takes a lot of heat to loosen up. They make pistol shaped guns which are meant for soldering thick cables. One of those would probably work best.
My question is what causes this to burn out? too much heat, voltage spikes? does it need a heat sink or something bigger?
What is the part number for this capacitor?
Thank you
Thank you so much for the great video. I followed the steps and my Aqua Rite 1.4 version still shows no flow and I have also replaced flow switch, fuse and T cell. I don't know what else to check. Is it possible I didn't do soldering correctly?
So, how did this turn out??
Thank you! You saved me lots of $$. It worked just as you said.
My aquarite has power, but has two lights on Chek Salt and Inspect Cell- both lights stay on and no generating. Do you think this lollypop part needs replacing on my unit? Thank you so kindly. (some extra info is the salt cell is reading working - the salt levels are where they should be by the pool store and still solid lights on). My unit is 9 years old and the salt cell is 2 years old. Thank you
It could be, however the cell may just need a good cleaning (with diluted muriatic acid). You can get the errors to go away by holding the diagnostic button down for 5 seconds.
@@QuaabQueb Thank you so much for commenting back. We've cleaned it several times, but will try again. It looks clean, but maybe something's on the plates? Thank you so very much!
@@bbuckize hey! I have the same issue at the moment. Inspect cell and low salt lit up. We cleaned the cell with muric acid as pool store said. Still has these two lights come up. Did you try changing the thermistor? Did you fix your problem and how?? Much appreciated! Thanks.
@@michellekiernan3579Hi. Having the same issue. Did you get yours fixed? What was the issue? Would love to hear back from you… Thank you
Is there a link or part number for the thermistor? Digikey says not found.
Try mouser
What issue does this repair address? Mine seems perfectly fine however is reading 3,800ppm salt level when the actual is 3,000 and no chlorine is being produced. The T-Cell is new.
@@grikor1 Sounds like you may need to re-calibrate the unit after replacing the cell. Typically symptoms of a bad thermistor are no power light upon power up
@@QuaabQueb That I have done, thanks a bunch.
One more question. Could I just cut the part off but leave the pins in the board and solder the new part to the pins already soldered to.the board ?
I wouldn't do that. Also make sure the solder is fully melted before pulling it out. If you try to pull it before the solder is melted you will damage the circuit board. Make sure to use pliers because it will get extremely hot. If you have a weaker soldering iron it will take a while as the pad on the board is pretty large. Ideally you need a 75 watt soldering iron.
so what was the original issue.....no lights for power but still showing chlorine level in display window?
Thanks for sharing. I am still watching soldering videos because I've never soldered in my life and I keep thinking it's just like making jewellery. Just do it.....carefully.
My OEM part has a part # of MF73T-12/18 will the
SL32 2R025 do the same job ?
Yes
@@QuaabQueb thank you for the help part will be here tomorrow ,,wish me luck that this is the issue as mine seemed to look good ,but looks can be deserving.
New aqua rite 800$. Part to fix it on digikey 3.5$+DIY with this video PRICELESS
does it matter what way the part goes into the solder points ?
No it does not.
Worked like a charm! My supplier was going to charge me $450 for the board.. I am the great Cornholio!
can you crimp connect it to the 2 wire stubs on the board instead of soldering?
The thermistor? No, it must be soldered well. A crimp connection will not last.
Nice DIY video! I have the Hayward Goldline Control Chlorinator for many years. The board version is r1.40 (looks just like yours). It is only in the past week or so, once a while, there is a loud bang coming out of the box, the power to the pump momentarily turns off, then back on again. The default display on the digital panel is showing 1.2 instead of the salt level (not sure what the 1.2 means, but for all these years, it's always the salt level). I suspect the loud bang comes from the transformer, but the display leads me to think of the electronic board. Which component do you think I should replace first? Many thanks!!!
I believe the loud bang sound is the relay clicking on an off. I have noticed it sometimes as well. Especially after first powering on the unit. though all units did this.
You can cycle through the menus to display different diagnostic information.
Thank you for the reply! I think I fixed the intermittent loud bang by replacing a loose terminal plug in the timer. As for the digital read out, somehow it got switched to metric. After switching back, everything returned to normal.
Any chance you offer repair services? I'm in the Montreal area.
I used to but no time any more. In 2020 there was a shortage of parts so I just stopped and that was it. Going rate then was about $50, I think the pool stores now charge about $100 or $120
There are probably a couple guys still advertising on marketplace or kijiji
Got the part today and installed it and still no power . I have 220V going in but nothing is turning on
Any suggestions.
Are the jumpers on the terminals set properly?
@@QuaabQueb yes ,snapped a photo of the wires b4 I removed them . And all in the proper placement.
@@PANABA453 Did you check the small fuse? I looks like what you would find in an automotive fuse box
Hey i notice it’s a Club Piscine Unit that you are working on, are you from montreal? I’m having the same issue with my generator
So does this fix the no power to the lcd?
Depends, generally the LCD still shows something if your LCD is not coming on at all it could be a problem somewhere else on the main board. The thermistor is the most common problem that affects these units.
We followed your video and after reinstalling, the system is throwing the breaker as soon as it turned back on. Any ideas on why?
Something is causing a short
It worked perfectly for me! Thank you so much! Very valuable video!
my board failed. the generating light came on for several seconds then it would make a click and the light would go out. some how i figured it was the board. so i replaced it and it works now. then i come on youtube and find all these videos. mostly its the thermistor current limiter thats causing all the problems. my unit was powering up so would that be the problem still? we get lots of power failures in the winter so i figured it finally got blasted even though it survived multiple outages prior to this. any ideas? I'm thinking that i might change the thermistor and see if that cures it. 12$ part why not...
I have the same issue now. Did you replace the thermistor? Did it fix the problem? Would love to hear back from you. Thank you
@@EriobC i replaced the whole board. Had i known it was probably the thermistor i would have just changed that first to trouble shoot it.
@@ngodline12Thanks I appreciate your response. Turns out the problem is my salt cell. But definitely learned a lot from your video.
my swg display was saying "cold" and the next day it was displaying "hot" hayward said to replace the cell it was bad so i did and im still getting the same display reading. does anyone have any advise or help thanks
Never seen either of those messages
I think the flow switch actually measures the pool water temperature with the Aqua-Rite. You could try bypassing the switch temporarily to see if the temperature reading drops to zero. I'm pretty sure you need a new flow switch.
Could a thermistor malfunction cause a completely dead board? I get no light, no flicker no nothing on mine... Check all the obvious, breaker, plugs etc.
A dead board is related to a microcontroller that's not resetting. I've figured out what the solution to that is but it's not a "do at home with a soldering iron" type of repair.
what causes the transformer to burn out aqua rite salt chlorinator
Never heard of a transformer burning out anything.
It's not the transformer, it's a thermistor serving as an in-rush current limiter to protect the board. Mine failed twice after electrical storms that can produce a current spike (like right before or after the power goes out). I use a surge protector now after the second repair! (amzn.to/2Pj4OSi)
Good video solved my problem, thanks
Thank you for this video. This is my problem.
Glad it helped
I believe i need to do this repair to my board , does anyone have the link to buy the current limiter?
B. Nicholson you can get it from digikey
I just found it on amazon , will be here Monday! Thank you for the video, i had no idea what was wrong with it this morning until i found your video! :)
Thank you very much for taking the time o do this.
Appropriately just ONE common and easiest problems to remedy on these units. Had to do mine 2x. Otherwise $$$$ board replacement(s)-sadly.
My cell was 10 years old. Was not used the whole time. Used for 3 years then not used for 5 but had water flowing through it. I hooked everything up soldered the flo sensor wires and worked for a couple years no problems. My salt got low and pool was in need of new pebble tech so I shut it down and used packets for a few months till the pool was finished. New water and after a month to let the pebble tech set up fully I added salt and got the system going and it said 900ppm salt I slowly added the salt till the strips said I have just enough to make it work like 2200ppm but the read out still says 900. All the while I was adding salt I watched the readout and it just staid at 900. Even before I added salt it should of had no salt but it said 900. The pool store said it could be the cell or brain box. Figure it has not been changed for ten years so I got one 500$+. Went to change and there was a bit of build up not as bad as I thought it would be. I cleaned it very good and tried it again and same thing 900. Before I install the new one I would sure like to know this 500$ part is the issue. Is there a way of testing it pin to pin with an ohm meter? Any help is greatly appreciated. My wife and I are just trying to fix everything so we can sell this place before we run out if money and loose it. After my heart attach and loss of my job we can't afford this place anymore. 7,000 for the leaks I'm the pool already because it was not up to code with the drain that was in it and the hollow spots that they said it had but never seen to have fixed. All that has really hit us hard and I need to fix this myself. Thanks for the videos I really appreciate them and you didn't need to do that. I hate to ask for more but I really need as much as I can get. Thanks.
Thank you for the video!
Great video
I changed this part 2 years ago. The original lasted 5 years. Now it needs another one. If I squeeze the current limiter together the power light would come on, so I knew it was cracked again. I gave it a wiggle and it crumbled. I'm calling this a bad design by Hayward. It's basically planned obsolescence. I'm sure Hayward knows this part fails often.
When you call them they want you to purchase a new board.
Yup pretty much. Try and get the larger size of thermistor it will last a bit longer
@@QuaabQueb I have the 25A thermistor installed. AS32 2R025
@@jTempVids They make two, one is slightly thicker, same part number
@@QuaabQueb ok. I'll look into the spec sheets on the parts. I'm pretty sure I installed the thicker one last time. Thank you.
Great public services here. Especially given Hayward's ridiculously bad customer service.
Curious if you have ever run into a situation wherin only the power light comes on, the display cycles , i can change between metric and readings but the display is set on AL-5 wont allow for the AL setting to be changed? I have a video up here:
ruclips.net/video/EEG1usx2Yno/видео.html
Could be a problem within the control circuit or loose/corroded contacts between the LCD board and main board.
@@QuaabQueb thank you i dont see any corrosion at all, nothing is loose, it was working fine, i turned it off to clean the salt cell and when i powered back up...this issue appeared. May just be done.
THANK YOU
Bravo! Great video, repair worked perfectly. My 4 year old unit failed after a big storm, and this repair worked fine until another big storm hit a month later - ugh! I recommend using a wall-mount surge protector to protect your unit, here's the option I'm using now that I'm happy with (Amazon affilitate link: amzn.to/2Pj4OSi) Good luck with your repair.
I've gone through FIVE of these controllers in 10 years. Amazingly poor reliability....