Was about to order new main board when I found numerous references to a burned thermistor. Received replacement thermistor through Amazon in two days for $5.85 (AMETHERM SL32 2R025 NTC THERMISTOR). Easily removed the burned out thermistor with a 40 watt iron. Used desoldering braid to clean up old solder. Suggest not using large soldering gun to avoid overheating circuit board. My AquaRite system has been in use for over 6 years, and other than replacing the salt cell after 5 years, this was the first trouble I've had. Best decision I made switching to salt water from chlorine - very low maintenance.
Make sure you check the current limiter on your board before replacing it. I thought a replacement board was needed for the Aqua Rite, but I saw tiny marks next to the currency limiter (black quarter-sized disc on the board). It was blown and was $2.50 to replace from Digikey.com. I desoldered the old one and soldered on the new one and it is generating chlorine again. If you don't have a soldering iron, it's around $15 for a kit at any Radio Shack. Also, if you don't have experience soldering, there are plenty of RUclips clips that can show you how easy it is.
S1N15T3R I'm at same point -- about to install a new PCB and noticed that terminal E12 where the Yellow lead from the transformer plugs in is discolored and the yellow lead shows signs of burning where it plugs into the PCB. So is it safe to attach the new PCB? Or will it get fried the second I turn it on? What would have caused the current surge there that would not have (a) blown the fuse at F1 or (b) produced the charring you found at the current limiter disc? Tech service is closed for the day and I need to get this done tonight. Thanks.
I have to chime in here. There is a lot of bad advise in these comments. Robert Fugate comments about putting electrical and a binder clip on the current limiter is not a quick fix it's a good way to burn up the whole PCB and possible the cell A quick fix would be turn the salt system off put some chlorine tabs in the pool and order a current limiter. His other item with connecting the system to 120 volts verses 240 is way off base also. The transformer runs cooler on 240 volts I won't bore you with electrical formulas but most everyone knows heat is what killers electronics He also states that 240 and burn marks across the circuit board I don't know were he came up with that The 240 volts AC stops at the transformer the board 18 to 24 volts DC The main reason that the current limiters fail is the cell pulling to many amps this is caused by two main things. 1 Adding salt to a pool with the cell on, before the salt is mixed in well there will be pockets of water with very heavy salt levels. Salt is conductive more salt more power-more heat and the limiter is what heats ups and breaks down. 2 If a cell is dirty, has lots of build up on the plates this will cause higher amperage draw and burn the limiter just at a slower rate than high salt. If you want to test this just watch your amperage level on the panel and have someone put some salt in a skimmer not much or you'll burn the limiter My experience with this is 21 years of owner a pool service and repair company and 30 years as an Aircraft Mechanic I'm all for DIYers as far as pools and RUclips is great place to learn about doing almost anything just don't want to see someone get bad info and end up costing them self more money or worse electrocuting them self
Update, received my AS32 2R025 Current limiter. Since the board has a heat sink inside the board, which makes it impossible to resolder. Suggest to cut the old current limiter out, leaving the legs so you can solder the new current limiter to them.
The first generation on Hayward Salt system circuit board, had a current limiter w/letters SL & had an issue with getting too hot & going bad prematurely. The circuit board was updated with a heat sink embedded in the board. If you look close enough in the video you'll see around the leg of the current limiter a .5 by .5 inch sliver patch. That's the heat sink! In addition, a upgraded current limiter was added with letters starting with AS. You have an option of running it at ether 120 or 240 volts, suggest 120 volts less likely to damage step down transformer and track (burn) across the circuit board. 120 volts is much kinder to the electronics as it ages!
Hi Diego, sorry to hear that. Are there any indicator lights on? We have a video on troubleshooting a Hayward Aquarite you can watch here: ruclips.net/video/9r0m8873SnM/видео.html&t
Had same board after 5 years of use, the current limiter finally failed. A quick temporary fix, was to put electrical tape over the current limiter and clip a medium size binder clip on it, make sure it doesn't touch the door or anything else. Other preventive maintenance suggestions the flow switch connection, put some anti wire corrosion inhibitor on it! If nothing else use WD-40.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
Was about to order new main board when I found numerous references to a burned thermistor. Received replacement thermistor through Amazon in two days for $5.85 (AMETHERM SL32 2R025 NTC THERMISTOR). Easily removed the burned out thermistor with a 40 watt iron. Used desoldering braid to clean up old solder. Suggest not using large soldering gun to avoid overheating circuit board. My AquaRite system has been in use for over 6 years, and other than replacing the salt cell after 5 years, this was the first trouble I've had. Best decision I made switching to salt water from chlorine - very low maintenance.
Make sure you check the current limiter on your board before replacing it. I thought a replacement board was needed for the Aqua Rite, but I saw tiny marks next to the currency limiter (black quarter-sized disc on the board). It was blown and was $2.50 to replace from Digikey.com. I desoldered the old one and soldered on the new one and it is generating chlorine again. If you don't have a soldering iron, it's around $15 for a kit at any Radio Shack. Also, if you don't have experience soldering, there are plenty of RUclips clips that can show you how easy it is.
Thanks for the great tip! Has your repair held up? Thanks again.
I just looked at my current limiter and it was cracked and brown where it hooked to the board so I ordered a replacement part. Thanks for the tip.
S1N15T3R I'm at same point -- about to install a new PCB and noticed that terminal E12 where the Yellow lead from the transformer plugs in is discolored and the yellow lead shows signs of burning where it plugs into the PCB. So is it safe to attach the new PCB? Or will it get fried the second I turn it on? What would have caused the current surge there that would not have (a) blown the fuse at F1 or (b) produced the charring you found at the current limiter disc? Tech service is closed for the day and I need to get this done tonight. Thanks.
Thank you just save me a few hundred bucks
I have to chime in here. There is a lot of bad advise in these comments.
Robert Fugate comments about putting electrical and a binder clip on the current limiter is not a quick fix it's a good way to burn up the whole PCB and possible the cell A quick fix would be turn the salt system off put some chlorine tabs in the pool and order a current limiter.
His other item with connecting the system to 120 volts verses 240 is way off base also. The transformer runs cooler on 240 volts I won't bore you with electrical formulas but most everyone knows heat is what killers electronics He also states that 240 and burn marks across the circuit board I don't know were he came up with that The 240 volts AC stops at the transformer the board 18 to 24 volts DC
The main reason that the current limiters fail is the cell pulling to many amps this is caused by two main things. 1 Adding salt to a pool with the cell on, before the salt is mixed in well there will be pockets of water with very heavy salt levels. Salt is conductive more salt more power-more heat and the limiter is what heats ups and breaks down. 2 If a cell is dirty, has lots of build up on the plates this will cause higher amperage draw and burn the limiter just at a slower rate than high salt.
If you want to test this just watch your amperage level on the panel and have someone put some salt in a skimmer not much or you'll burn the limiter
My experience with this is 21 years of owner a pool service and repair company and 30 years as an Aircraft Mechanic
I'm all for DIYers as far as pools and RUclips is great place to learn about doing almost anything just don't want to see someone get bad info and end up costing them self more money or worse electrocuting them self
awesome comment and information
Thank you soo much posting this video. I was able to fix my unit for only $5. Great video!!
Chris Barch Great, thanks!
Is there a reason that the desired ouput knob is less than what's displayed on the LED display? Thanks!
Thanks. You saved me about $400.
Arthur DeLozier Awesome! Saved money is the best money :)
Just bought 50 current limiters! Im making some money now! Thanks Inyo! ...YO!
+jasontman36 No, thank you!
Once installed do you have to reset or re calibrate anything?
I have the same question.
Update, received my AS32 2R025 Current limiter. Since the board has a heat sink inside the board, which makes it impossible to resolder. Suggest to cut the old current limiter out, leaving the legs so you can solder the new current limiter to them.
+Robert Fugate Thank you for the update. Keep us posted on how it works out.
The first generation on Hayward Salt system circuit board, had a current limiter w/letters SL & had an issue with getting too hot & going bad prematurely. The circuit board was updated with a heat sink embedded in the board. If you look close enough in the video you'll see around the leg of the current limiter a .5 by .5 inch sliver patch. That's the heat sink! In addition, a upgraded current limiter was added with letters starting with AS. You have an option of running it at ether 120 or 240 volts, suggest 120 volts less likely to damage step down transformer and track (burn) across the circuit board. 120 volts is much kinder to the electronics as it ages!
I replaced the board on this the old one got burned, I can’t get the generator to work still
Hi Diego, sorry to hear that. Are there any indicator lights on? We have a video on troubleshooting a Hayward Aquarite you can watch here: ruclips.net/video/9r0m8873SnM/видео.html&t
Music is perfect for a retro po-rno
I thought there is a "menu process" to do?
Had same board after 5 years of use, the current limiter finally failed. A quick temporary fix, was to put electrical tape over the current limiter and clip a medium size binder clip on it, make sure it doesn't touch the door or anything else. Other preventive maintenance suggestions the flow switch connection, put some anti wire corrosion inhibitor on it! If nothing else use WD-40.
+Robert Fugate nice job! As DIY-ers, duct tape and WD-40 are our best friends.
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