Troubleshooting the Goodman Defrost Board
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- Опубликовано: 11 июн 2024
- The is another time temperature defrost board and -- just like any other time temp board -- it is a simple and easy to understand defrost board that is found on a lot of heat pumps out there in the field. This one is the newer style Goodman defrost board and can be found all over in the field. While it is still a time-temperature board they have upgraded its "thinking" so as to make it a better time-temperature board.
0:00 Older Goodman Defrost Board
2:40 Newer Goodman Defrost Board
9:25 Field Checks
Probably one of the best videos I've watched on troubleshooting a defrost board. Great Job. Love your teaching style. Thx
You're too kind. I appreciate it.
I fixed a problematic unit by watching this video. Thanks again for making this video. I have a happy customer.
Thanks. Glad it helped you.
Thank you for this video. You just helped me figure out my problem. I thought y went to contactor. All I had was the y and cnt switched around. God bless you sir.
We have a 26 yo Janitrol/ Goodman heat pump system. We have to replace the defrost board for the first time. This is the exact board that we had to buy as the original has been discontinued and this is the replacement. There is a difference and hopefully we will have no problem after watching your video. My husband is a former HVAC technician, but has been out of the business for many years, retired.
26 yrs is a good run! Also.. I wish I could retire. He's got it in the bag. Just like they say about riding a bike, you never forget some stuff.
Thanks for the basic working of this card. As an electrician I’m not familiar with HVAC terminology on heat pumps and this helped me troubleshooting my heat pump. My ch appreciated.
Great video man! I really really appreciate you taking the time to make this video. I’m new to the industry and I am a very quick learner but heat pump wiring always gives me a little trouble I have to really focus because I get lost. This video I think has solved that. Thank you!
Thanks. Most of what i do is basic residential and lighter commercial stuff so it is "easy" once you get into it a little bit. I am glad you think it helps.
Thank you ! I was able to help my in-laws in Vegas 115 degrees , conned the last 4x on a new unit .I subscribed and look forward to more videos nice to know there's still people that want to help
Thanks. I have been watching those high numbers on the national weather forecast. That is brutal. I am glad to hear you may have gotten something useful out of it.
It’s very clear to explain! The best explanation for Goodman deforest board on RUclips.
Hopefully you can make more videos. Thank you very much!
Thank you. I try to keep it as simple as I know how. It isn't perfect but it should get some wheels turning. I took some vacation time this summer but I'll have some more videos coming soon. Thanks again.
Really great job explaining how this type of defrost board.functions.
Thanks.
Great content - very helpful!
Tanks It is right what I was needing know tanks. Nice video
Great explanation and detailed review of the two boards. Coming from S FL, they did not use alot of heat pumps or gas, mostly was all electric. Never really got "cold" in Ft Laud.. Since moving to NW Alabama very recently, these vids help and fill the voids of uncertainty. Been in the business along time, but nothing I cannot figure out.
Thanks. That is a fair distance from sunny S FL!
Thank you John , Im the owner of a New Goodman System. Found out you can get the OEM Goodman Defrost Board on Amazon for around $46 . AC Company wanted to charge me $400 ! Oh my , thanks. New Subscriber. God Bless 🙏🇺🇸
Thanks for commenting. Pricing is always a touchy topic when talking with any customer. I have seen it priced higher and lower than $400. The only things that matter is does it work right when the company is done with repairs? And are you comfortable paying what they ask? If the answer is yes to.both then you got a deal!
@@johnjennings487 , Absolutely John
Bro….. I love you
Thank you for this
One of the best videos that help me out in the feild
Thank you so much for making videos like this one! Huge blessing brother!!!
Thanks. Just watch for that Norm/DLY on this board. I made a mistake talking about it and didn't realize it. It just cuts the contactor off for a to let the pressures equalize when doing a defrost, then comes back on as it should.
This are the best step by step tutorial ever thank u. 👍🏽
Thank you.
Great video like always keep them coming ,I love all of your videos 🙏🏻thank you for sharing your kills with us
Thanks SOLO TECH. I appreciate it.
great work I love your teaching
Thank you for the concise instructions on this board. Mine would not turn system on after power outage and kept blowing air handler fuse. Isolated issue to outside board thanks to this video.
Thanks for looking and leaving a comment. . If something in the video helped someway...I like it!
Great overview here on a basic rundown of these Goodman Defrost temp boards. Got my sub 👍
Wow finally someone I understand great job sir
Thanks
Thanks for reponse and insights as always. Happy New Year
great video, I like your teaching. Thanks
The original board is very reliable and rarely needs replaced. Ive seen them 20+ yrs old and still 100% operational
Absolutely. I have not changed out a whole lot of them so i think they are pretty reliable too.
I recently replaced my brothers 3ton Goodman Heatpump. It was 27yrs old with original board and CFM and compressor. I couldn't believe it !!!
The oldest i have seen was a 42 yr old heat pump. Guy didn't even have a thermostat...he just turned it on and off with the breaker. But it ran great!
Thank you 🙏 this was very helpful
Excellent video. Top shelf information.
Awesome. Glad you checked it out.
Thanks John big help got to work on one forgot my heat pump skills since left Vegas !Two years ago😂
Thanks. Happens to the best of us sometimes. Glad it helped to jog your memory.
amazing video thank you
Thanks John...great video 🎉
Thanks for sharing. I now know what is wrong with this one unit I've been dealing with. It's not wired correctly coming back from the high pressure switch and out to the contactor (cnt). Cool!! Thanks!!! I'm a happy camper and tthe home owner will be too!!!
Great video... this helped me so much. Thanks buddy!
Awesome. I hope it either made you or saved you some money! Thanks for watching.
Perfect!
very clear explanation
Thank you!
Thank you.
Helped out a great deal, thanks for the video.
Thank you, you're videos are great.
Thanks
Very nice way to verify or diagnose …. Nice one
Thanks.
What a great video thank you for sharing wow spectacular
Thank you.
You are the best teacher
🤔 I know some people that would disagree! I talk too much...
I learned alot from watching your video!! Thank you and i will be checking my defrost board in the morning and hopefully locate my issue. We have been below freezing for almost a week now and that doesn't usually happen in TN. I have a package heat pump unit that is over 10 years old. I kept temp set at 68 and the unit did great and kept it around 65 the whole time and no problems until the last night, last night. I noticed blower running and heat coming through vents but unit had not kicked on like it usually does. I did have heat coming out of the vents so my heat strips are working but the unit is not. Went outside last night to see if unit was frozen but it had normal looking amount of ice in the bottom. It Has been like that the whole time and i have been hearing the unit kicking into defrost. Ended up taking panels off today and while inspecting and listening, i could here a click on defrost panel but nothing happening. Took off panel near coils and notice the defrost control (little black box near coils) was covered in ice and figured that may be the problem. Got it thawed and still not working. Tried turning unit off and let it reset, still doesn't work. Doesn't even work when turned to AC. Blower motor is blowing and heat strips are working in Aux and Emergency heat mode. What should i be looking for? I will be doing the checks on defrost board but any extra guidance would be greatly appreciated. The night before it quit, it ran basically all night because it was very cold and most of the day that next day. The unit is right outside my bedroom and it just hit me that the unit hadn't kicked on in a while. Im hoping it is something simple but any help on what to look at next will be very helpful and i will be scrolling through more of your videos looking for ideas. Thank you!!
Ok. So when doing the testing, I have 25v going into board, 25v going out at dft r and 25v going back in at dft. So that's the opposite of what you have on the 1st wire which I'm assuming means the sensor is closed and not open. I'm now trying to find the video to check continuity and figure out where to go from there
I just came back to say I fixed it! I decided to trace the wires and check the continuity of the defrost control thing and high and low limit switches. All turned out to be good. As I was tracing the the Y wire back to the thermostat in the house, the little yellow wire seemed loose in the wire nut and it was!!! It had broken and lost connection. And just like that, I saved myself a $97 service call for a broken wire. Just for reference it's a Goodman14 seer package heat pump unit that was installed 11 years ago. The summer of 2022 it would blow air but wasn't cold. My son paid someone $120 to change a capacitor that was only $10. In October of 2022, the unit would run but no air blowing through vents and instead of paying someone to check it out and fix it, I started my own research and checking it out. I ended up searching and finding a universal blower motor and installing it. Turn unit on and it works great but condenser fan motor is squealing like a pig. Back to researching and find a universal motor to install and I was good to go again until the cold and ice the other day. I am thankful for people like you making videos and sharing your knowledge. It has saved me a lot of money. Thank you!!!
Been busy and looks like so have you. I have a hectic first few days of the week so it is hard to get time to check comments but sounds like you are plenty capable enough and a little confidence never hurts 👍
Loose connections get a lot of us but slow down and pay attention and you can usually get it resolved. Glad to hear you were successful! Ever thought about being the next hvac company owner?
That is quite all right that you was busy because I have been busy too. Apparently I tooted my horn before I should have. The unit kicked off but I never got into kick back on. I strip the yellow wire from thermostat and connected it back to the yellow wire that runs to the compressor and put the wire cap back on it and it started running no problem. I thought yay I fixed it and then it kicked off and didn't kick back on later that evening when it should have. I I then went back to my RUclips schooling and also learned from there that you also need to read comments under videos because apparently some people don't have a clue what they're talking about and they get corrected in the comments. I am the type of person I will look at something 4 or 5 times before I mess with it to make sure I do it right to begin with. Luckily, I have a knack for this kind of stuff and I can figure just about anything out if I want to sit down and learn it or need to learn it. Especially if it will save me a crap ton of money. By the time I am finished with this unit I will be able to fix any unit except for putting gas in and the freon because I have no clue about that or checking the pressures because I don't have any pressure gauges. But if I happen to run across some pretty cheap, you better believe I will buy them for the next time around but that still leaves the Freon issue but anyway. Hopefully I don't repeat to much so figure me if I do.
Here is what I have learned at school. When I press The contractor in the unit turns on and runs. I didn't know for sure if my switches were bad my pressure I didn't know for sure if my switches were bad and wasn't sure about holding the contactor in and having the unit run and it be out of freon and it be my low pressure switch causing the lockout and break something that wasn't broke to begin with. I checked the resistance on both of the pressure switches and both of the switches had zero ohms so that meant they were closed and should be okay. The thermostat is the thermostat that was here when we moved here 10 years ago and it had actually been moved from one part of the house to another because to begin with there was a split unit in here and apparently they took out the inside part. I don't know if they had a heat pump or not we was here about 6 months and it quit working and we put the heat pump in. I decided to check the thermostat because it had already been here when I pulled the thermostat off the wall it was very dirty on the inside so I cleaned it good And I was getting 24 volts on all the wires like it should. Decided I would get a new thermostat and replace it. When put in the new thermostat on the wall there is no give with the wires coming out of the wall from the thermostat. The black and brown wire were both wrapped up and not hooked to anything. While I was at the unit I noticed the brown wire was hooked up on the unit side going to another brown tan wire that ran down to my heat strips. So apparently when the unit was hooked up the brown wire was hooked up but the brown wire was never hooked up to the thermostat. I don't believe the thermostat was ever taken off the wall when we put the unit in so I hooked the brown wire to the E on the new thermostat. White to Aux (W2) because it was at W2 on old thermostat. white wire on old thermostat was also touching the E on the old thermostat. On the old thermostat the Y was connected to the yellow wire and that was jumped with the little metal piece to the W1. I'm going to assume I have that right according to the heat pump book that I have on when we hooked it up and the diagrams that come with a thermostat. But that did not fix the unit it still is not kicking on.
On the defrost board I was not getting anything coming out of Y or CNT, which led me to the pressure switches but they are both closed. Unless I have tested it wrong, I don't have 24 volts coming out of the contactor. Checking the common wire coming out of the contactor to the yellow wire coming out of the thermostat, I didn't have 24 volts. Also when I'm out there and it's running the blower fan is running and you can hear the defrost board click every once in awhile. I'm going to assume that is the relay?
Today I went out there and because the thermostat wire from the yellow had just broke. I'm assuming it just been so cold for I'm assuming it just been so cold for below I'm assuming it just been so cold for I'm assuming it didn't get above freezing for almost a week that it just broke and there is no play with the thermostat wires coming out of the wall so it's probably pretty tight all the way out to the unit. Maybe the yellow wasn't getting a good contact or I had another broken wire somewhere along the way. So I stripped back the extra black wire and hooked it in place of the yellow wire there was no change there was still no voltage running out to the unit from there. I knew the white wire was good because my heat strips and stuff would kick on so I took the white wire and used it from the thermostat to the yellow compressor wire. The unit still did not do anything but I was setting out there watching more videos trying to figure out how to troubleshoot the contactor or something else and every time the defrost board would click it scared the crap out of me and I would jump. that really stinks when you got your hands in there trying to test voltages and that thing clicks and it makes me think I've hit the wrong thing or something and I jump lol. As I was still sitting there trying to figure it out and troubleshoot it the unit kicked on. I didn't get too excited though but I was excited that it did kick on cuz maybe the wires coming from the thermostat was the problem. I went in the house I had nice warm air blowing out the vents but I still didn't get excited because I still needed it to kick back on. I continue to let it run for a few minutes and then I slowly turn the heat back down so it would kick off and it did not kick back on when I raised the heat back up. I do know that my problem isn't with the freon or the limit switches because that's something that I myself cannot fix because I don't have the equipment or the license for all that good stuff but I'm hoping I can fix the other stuff. Also I was sitting out there waiting for it to kick back on and I don't know exactly where it come from but there was a noise and it wasn't the clicking from the defrost board. I couldn't tell if it come from the capacitor or the transformer or the other little black box that's there I'm not sure what that is either. I was going to check the capacitor but I don't have a meter that does the capacitance and apparently I need one in order to check the capacitor correctly. I did find where you can use the resistance setting and it should start at zero and eventually go to Infinity but that apparently isn't a great way to tell whether it's good or bad but that was all I had so I tried that. The readings I got were when it was hooked to the herm it would very very very slowly raise I'm talking slow. it would raise a little bit faster when it was hooked to the fan part. after I did that if I turned around and hooked it right back up I wouldn't get a reading at all to either one. so I'm not sure exactly how they're supposed to work. I mean shouldn't it be the same. Start out at zero and work its way up each time or does it do that in between or is that maybe my problem the capacitor is just working here and there. I do know a capacitor does not cost that much so I plan on ordering one and if it doesn't fix it then I'll have an extra one sitting on the side but then I got to thinking about the relay on the board that keeps clicking I think according to the diagram it is maybe CCR but I'm not exactly sure which one of those two black boxes it is. I also plan on running a new thermostat wire when I get it all figured out.
Anyway, that is where I'm at right now and so I will go back to my RUclips school and see what I can't figure out tonight and if it's not raining tomorrow start all over again and see where I get tomorrow. I will eventually get it narrowed down. It may take a minute but I don't give up easily. Thank you so much for replying and believe me I understand what it means to be busy thank you
I got sick last tuesday but wanted to throw something your way since you mentioned a loose Y wire. Don't know if it will help now or not but here goes since you seem fairly confident about the pressure switches being ok.
That board needs 24 v on the 'R' terminal (one test lead on R and the other on C) in order to do pretty much anything. It actually goes out and checks the low pressure switch and once the CCR switch closes, energizes the contactor coil and make it close to turn on the compressor. Keeping a loose wire in mind - I wonder if maybe it has a loose connection somewhere like the Y wire did? Been a few days but meant to get that out (before I got sick) and see if maybe it could help or if you had any success with it since a few days ago.
This video was very very very useful. I really appreciate John🙂
Glad to hear. Thanks for checking it out.
This is awesome. Thank you
Awesome video and information
It's a little different than that zone board...
I literally only came here to say that your video showed up on my feed randomly, and I read the title as "Troubleshooting the Goddamn Defrost Board"
I'll have to get with my people about that...
Thank you. Great video.
Thanks.
excellent video
Great video. Thanks
Thanks.
Great video vary informative
Thanks. Appreciate it.
Nice video, goodmans defrost test is a little different, you can put the jumper on test, then jump out the DFS that's if your coil is above 32F , next important part once you hear the unit go into a defrost pull off the test pin jumper and it will go into a full defrost cycle. Hope this helps anyone.
The goodman board does do it a little different. Thanks for commenting and bringing it up.
Great video brother 💯💯💯💯
Thanks. Much appreciated.
Beautiful masterpiece
Thank you...
Good video 👍 Thanks
Thank you.
Great info.
Solid!
Excellent. Thanks.
Thank you.
Great video, 👍 👌 👍
Thanks.
Good video and explanation! One critique: I think the norm/delay jumper is a setting to allow for a delay in order to shift the reversing valve before the compressor comes on for quieter operation. I think normal just sends it
Yes. I made a mistake in speaking about that NORM/DLY on the board. I was so focused on everything else that I completely fudged it and later realized. I got to go back and edit that somehow...If I got my mind right now, the compressor will shut on/off when it goes into and out of defrost if the DLY is selected and helps with the pressures and that quieter operation you were speaking of. Too much stuff to remember sometimes and I hate to put it out wrong. Thanks for reminding me to fix that one.
@@johnjennings487 I’m not sure how RUclips works on the creators end but I’ve seen a lot of videos where there’s text superimposed on the screen for corrections. I wouldn’t sweat it too much, keep up the good work!
It was in my head right but didn't come out the mouth right. I'll somehow fix it or at least put a correction in the comments.
I'm not sure how that would be possible considering the compressor is what actually moves the piston inside the reversing valve. The valve solenoid is designed like a relay but with refrigerant. I guess it's possible though with residual pressure in the system if it's switching during operation? I'm still new to this stuff.
It just lets the pressures equalize a little so it isn't as noisy when the reversing valve shifts back into heat mode. It helps a little since we seem to install units right outside of bedroom windows!
Excellent video. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong here because I just did this: Y is power-in that passed through the low-pressure switch, and PS2 and R-PSI are for the high-pressure switch. You could disconnect PS2, R-PSI, CNT, and then connect Y to the contactor in place of the CNT wire and it should work fine (minus high-pressure protection). I don't think I'd want to do it that way as a contractor, but not a big deal in this case.
I'd disconnected the PS2 and R-PSI wires earlier this year to get it working again even though the pressure switch itself seemed to be fine, and then today pretty much just bypassed that whole relay.
The Y coming from the tstat/air handler goes through the high pressure switch on the newer board while the R-PS1 goes out to the low. If you just temove the Y on the board and put it to the contactor it should work without having to unplug anything else. Just will be controlled straight from the tstat but with high press switch used and not a low press switch. I would think the low is more important (if i had to choose i guess) since there is a thermal overload on the PSC motors. I have seen older units without a pressure switch at all and it should at least have a low pressure switch.
But you could easily remove both pressure switches from the board, wire them in series, and put whichever wire straight to the contactor as a temporary solution while you wait on parts or something. All in all, I see where you're going. Should be fine.
Thank you for the video. My unit is not turning the Aux heat on while it is defrosting. I will do the check in a couple of hours. It is 13°F outside.
Thanks for watching. I hope it helps you figure it out. Your unit will definitely be blowing cold air in defrost mode without those heat strips running.
@@johnjennings487 put it into defrost mode. Checked between C and W= 25V. Those 2 terminals get 25V during Heating mode and during defrost mode.
I still have to double check the wiring going to the AHU. However, it was working before very well. I stopped the unit in order to change the filter and all the sudden that happens.
The heaters come on as programmed to supplement the Heat Pump.
I will keep you updated.
Your videos helped a lot though.
Yes...let me know what you find.
Wow. Thank you.
Thanks.
Nice clear explanation videos. Try explain more sequence of operations. I know you a professional but Never grounded yourself (any body part touch grounding) when working on unit.
Point taken but it is hard not to show the real way it happens.
Nice video, changed out a board last night, couldn't initiate a defrost, probably a bad sensor.
If it is the newer style goodman board I would probably agree, if it isn't...just make sure you have 24v going to the board first.
The norm or delay is for a soft start in defrost. It shuts off the compressior off for 30 seconds when switching form heat to defrost and when switching back
Thanks for commenting. For some reason when I did this video I must have been thinking of something else and didn't realize I misspoke on that point. I did put a note in the description and tried to flag the video because I don't have any employees or fancy software! I'll just have to redo it to get it right I suppose!
great video. Thx
I have had 2 new boards (PCBDM133 which you show here) show sign of overheating on rge R22 and R23 resistors, with discoloration on both sides of the board. What would this indicate, is this a common occurence due to,say, improper choice of the the resistor not allowing for proper dissipation, or would this point to a differnt issue altogether ?
I am not a big electronics guy dealing with resistors and diodes. I know a kittle but not expert level. I have seen the discoloration if many board and they worked fine, no issues at all, for years. I would say it is normal for some discoloration...could they use a higher wattage rating?? I'll let the electronics guys figure that out.
Ours is discolored and very hot to the touch. Thinking of replacing the board. Would like to know what causes this and if that kind of heat is normal.
I actually talked to a guy that works at a parts distributor and he says that problem is one of the biggest he sees with that board. I don't have a solid answer for why it gets hot/burns out but i think it has something to do with the wattage rating for that series resistor.
@@johnjennings487 there is a universal replacement by White Rodgers (model 47D01U-843) that should work better - they also provide a very long list of cross reference replacement that helps decide if your board is a candidate for replacement.
Thanks. I'll try to remember that and pass it along as well.
Do the low voltage relays fail on the PCBDM133S board causing the 3A fuse in air handler to blow?
I don't think I have ever had a relay fail and pop the fuse but I guess it could happen. Fuse popping is a short in my mind. When does the fuse blow? Is the hnit running before it happens or does it blow instantly as soon as you put a new fuse in? Maybe check wiring to pressure switches around copper piping outside? I have seen a bad defrost sensor cause issues, but that was only as the coil got cold and the switch closed...so periodically.
I have visible burnt transistor on my board and keep blowing 3amp air handler board fuse. I’ve gone through all wiring all the way. Would bad defrost board cause this ?
I supposed that it could blow the fuse since it is connected to the low voltage in the system. If it is visibly burnt on the board then that is something you probably want to replace anyway.
Someone installed my ac/heat pump that shouldn’t operate a toaster. What will the unit due under heater conditions is the jumper for the 30-60-90 pins is not installed on any of them? I can’t find an answer anywhere.
If the jumper on the defrost board is not actually put on the 30-60-90 pin then the board will default to the 30 min selection anyway...if I remember correctly. If that is the only thing "wrong" I don't see any reason the unit shouldn't still run like normal.
It seems to fail while running in the middle of the night. When I check fuse and replace fuse it blows instanlty when I return power to air handler. Have checked for short but it only shows when defrost board is damaged. I have replace the defrost board a couple of days ago and this morning found the unit not running with the blown 3A fuse. Looking to replace the defrost sensor tomorrow when HVAC store is open. Have had some cold temps in the 30s lately. This board seems to fail in the cold months
I don't know if boards fail that much...even if it is a Goodman 🤣
Sounds like a wiring short to me and I have had some that take a while to find. If the fuse blows as soon as power is restored then it seems to me to be in the circuit of 24v power. We all do it differently so take this lightly but I would be looking for rubbing of wires on copper piping. Maybe some weed eater damage outside? Wires that are *nicked* somewhere near wire nut connections? Could be anywhere really. I know how I would go about it but of course ain't there. Sorry.
Thanks for the video, I'm having issues with the defrost board an actually have a new one coming, but in the meantime I wanting to bypass an power contactor to run for heat mode .so I wired up an had running, but left everything running through old board, an just jumped out y an cont terms to get to run .but it seems that there still wasn't any heat coming in the house ,so I disconnected worried I didn't have something right an could cause more issues, I was wondering if there was a step I missed to make this work, maybe Rev valve. Needs de energized or something, for heat mode, (Goodman unit) an with no defrost will this hurt the system,.Thank you
Don't know about a missed step but running the unit i heat mode with no way to defrost could keep you warm for a bit but it will just accumulate more ice and basically be running for nothing - depending on how long it runs. Kinda like an igloo. Ice will just insulate and no really let the unit move heat inside.
@@johnjennings487 Thank you John for your reply, well since I messaged you the first time, I started digging into everything a little more an found that my low pressure switch was open so I jumped across terminal on Def board an unit kicked on so ,Def board ok but now I either had bad pressure switch or low freon ,found out no freon at all. I had a guy pressure up system an found that the service valve was leaking an I lost all my freon, I guess the drastically drop in temperature over the week sucked it out the leaking valve. we tighten but still leaking some ,so he suggested replacing an then recharging system, a more expensive problem now, I was hoping of another way of sealing the valve, I seen were a man has this 410 seal kit that he uses on a lot of his jobs an says it definitely works ,but I can't get ahold of him to get kit or any details, plus I just hate to replace valve if it could be repaired, may be best to replace though.
Sounds like it isn't the schrader core/stem but at the top? If so I have seen some guys try thread lock stuff, not the tape but it might work for a while. I would say replace it and know it is right but "gotta do whatcha gotta do". Low freon is always the problem 😪. At least the pressure switch did its job.
Hey there, I have this board in my GSZ unit and your vid has been very helpful. My LPS wires are testing open when i took them out the board. I tried jumping the R-PS1 to PS2 terminal to simulate a good LPS. But still the unit doesn’t come on. The unit works when I push the contactor in and all terminals are 27v beside the CNT terminal sending power to the contactor coil. Could it be both Lps is open and something is wrong with defrost board? There seems to be some brown burn marks on some of the board
Brown burn marks don't seem to be a good sign but I have seen some with a brown discoloration and it works fine. It is possible that you have a refrigerant issue causing the low pressure switch to open and an electrical something with the board. You sure you had a god connection between R-PS1 and PS2? The reason I bring it up is I saw a guy not too long ago that tried jumping something out and his jumper was bad!
@@johnjennings487 Thanks for the fast response, I tried your method just now with the voltage i was unaware during the first test. The Ps1 to c I managed to see 24v a few times but its hard to get it I’m afraid i may have cause damage to the terminal it is loose in the board compared to the others now after removed the wire to test.. However I did see it a couple times but Unable to get any 24v reading on the other side. I was hoping i can get a new board and replace it but looks more like it’s a refrigerant issue and i gotta call somebody out.
edit:I did see single digit voltage on the other side. I removed the connector from the return wire to Ps2 when removing it from the Ps2 terminal to test Smh. So when i test the Return wire that connects to ps2 for voltage i get single digits like 4-6 volts. That would seem to be an open circuit correct? I did test Ps1 and ps2 terminals after i made them loose for continuity and it was good so i think the terminals are still working condition.
I suppose i’ll start with the refrigerant pressure and finding the leak then replace the board if necessary
I checked my temperature sensor in it seems that even when it's below 30 it remained open so I also check if I jump the DFT pins and put it in test it worked fine and defrosted. After I installed the new temp sensor the next morning cold out I was not defrosting again do you think I also have a bad defrost board maybe a relay sticking or something when it gets cold?
In my experience with these boards it is fairly simple. If you have the newer style goodman defrost board then you will need 3 things for it to defrost. 1- you have to have 24v on R and C when you check with a meter. The newer board won't even turn on the unit without it so if your h it is working then that part checks oit. 2- DFT switch has to close. Sounds like you already checked that one! 3- use the test feature if you don't want to wait for the defrost timer to go. Usually it is 30 or 60 minutes in my area. If it doesn't work and you have changed the sensor already it does seem like the board is the issue. I would make sure the sensor it strapped to the coil good and not loose. Double check all your steps again and if it doesn't defrost on its own change the board.
👍 the best.
Thank you
I has same board in my heat pump(Goodman)..For some reason r22 and r23 resistor is overhearing, and a/c not working, stay in heat mode..
My friend and I were just talking about that a few days ago. Seems like there a a few resistors that always overheat and you can see the area on the board when it happens. I hope goodman fixes it one day but it seems like it is an issue with the manufacturing of the board. Maybe they are rated in a high enough wattage or something. Thanks for stopping by and commenting.
absolutely the same defrost board goodman B12260 mine is accumulating ice and not defrosting I noticed there is no wire connected to DF2 is that normal what do you think is the problem. and is this B12260 is still available the old version
You can still find the B12260. But my question for you is about the DF2 missing a wire. That is a terminal for the outdoor fan motor. Power goes in on DF1 and out on DF2, except in defrost when the switch opens. Where, or how, is your outdoor fan wired? If it isn't on DF2 then it might not cut off in defrost mode.
Thanks for the video. The one you’re testing is the one in my unit. My unit will not come on at all. The 5 tests you did all did the same on my unit. Any ideas what I should try next? Inside works fine, outside won’t turn on. Thanks
Sorry, got busy at work. If you have a electrical test meter check the two pressure switches to make sure they are closed. You always have to have 24v on 'R' and 'C' tk this board but after you prove you have that check the high pressure switch goes to the 'Y' terminal and the low pressure switch goes to the RPS2 terminal you can check each of those, one at a time, to the 24v common on the board. If you get 24v to each then great, if not then the one thar reads 0v is open and you might need a set of hvac manifold gauges. If both get 24v then check the CNT terminal to 24v common. 24v is good and you should have 24v to the contactor coil, if not the the board is likely bad. If you have 24v to contactor coil and it is not pulling in then it is a bad contactor. Hope this helps a little.
@@johnjennings487 ended up being the high pressure switch. The blower motor went out when it was in heat mode, so I’m guessing the pressure got too high. Thank you!
Goodman GSZ160301 Unit pops a 3amp fuse in the air handler as soon as the power is turned on. Tested all low voltage wires for a short, nothing shorted. Would this board cause the fuse to short if its bad?
I guess anything is possible but i doubt it is the board. If you checked the thermostat wires in your system and didn't find the short then maybe it is a short in the factory wiring. Look for something like wires that might be rubbing up against the copper tubing outside. Pressure switch wiring reversing valve wiring, or it may be a shorted contactor/relay coil. See if you can do the poor man troubleshooting and turn on one thing at a time...fan on, then heat on, then cool on, etc. Maybe that can help narrow down what circuit it is in.
@@johnjennings487 Its a brand new system. It worked for about 2 weeks, then blew a fuse, put a new fuse in and it worked for 3 more days and then started blowing a fuse every time the breaker was turned on. Unhooked all thermostat wires and put them all back one at a time, starting with the thermostat to the air handler. Got all those wires on and was able to turn on the Aux heat strip. Everything worked fine. Started putting back all heat pump wires to the air handler and everything was fine until I got to the red wire. That popped the fuse. Took all heat pump wires back off the air handler except the red one and it popped it again. I can not turn it on to test anything because I cant get power to the heat pump without it blowing a fuse. I am using 18-8 wire so I have extra wires that arent being used. I thought maybe something was wrong with the red wire so I used one of the extras in place of the red wire as a test. System worked for 15 minutes, popped the fuse again. I am out of ideas.
Love these kinds of problems!!! Makes me wanna pull my beard out sometimes!
Continuity checks could/should find it but it can be frustrating. When i first started out i had an old man tell me to buy a couple packs of fuses and put on in every circuit between the tstat and air handler, then again between air handler and heat pump! I didn't like that job much but i finally understood that he was trying to help me over the phone (kinda like this). We found the problem though. I start hooking up my power (red) and common first. If power is already on then a direct short pops the fuse. Then i start hooking up the G, Y, O, etc. All with power on...but that is just me. If nothing pops when i get finished wiring, i turn it on...fan on then off, etc. Shorts are definitely a pain but that is why companys i worked for charge by the hour for finding one! Good luck.
Can you make a video to how to bypass,thanks that’s helpful awesome video
I'll have to try and come up with some scenarios and out it o the list. Thanks
If all those checks are good , low pressure switch closed high pressure closed and we're getting a call for heat/cool, and we don't get 24 v out on the contract terminal. Bad board?
The newer goodman board has to have 24v power on R & C in order to energize the CNT circuit out of the board. Check for true 24v power to the board on R & C and if you have that along with all the stuff you mentioned then it does sound like a bad board from where I am sitting!
@@johnjennings487 thank you for the reply
Green tech over here
Found 3amp fuse blown on the indoor air handler
As soon as I replaced it “thermostat being off” fuse blow up again.
Isolate R going to the outdoor unit
Didn’t blow up fuse
As soon as I open the outdoor unit rain decide to come, I was able to see some burn between the resistor on the front and back of the board
Can I have shorter board ?
Probably the actual thermostat wire R is shorting somewhere?
Btw- thanks for explaining everything. You got a new suscriber
Seems like a lot of goodman defrost boards get replaced because of those resistors. Not the first time hearing this description. If it isn't the board it has to be a short in the 'R' like you say. Somewhere the wire is rubbed through and touching the common wire or grounded against a copper pipe. Continuity would help locate or some guys just swap it for a spare color and see what happens (since you are already blowing the fuse) Electricity don't care about color! Red could be brown! But if you did that and the fuse blew again I would do a continuity check and also consider the board being bad, depending on how the continuity check went.
@@johnjennings487 thanks, I didn’t wanna condemn the board since It was probably just discolored just by a quick look
Could the board cause the AHU to no work meaning it kicks on and off while the compesor amd fan are running btw mine is a package unit, i have a rental property that has the same package unit i tested my AHU on that unit and it seemed to work properly does not go on and off as in the unit at my house, got a new thermostat, one thing i noticed is that the fan will work while system is off and i manually set fan to on position in thermostat
If I am following you correctly it sounds like maybe a indoor fan board problem. The indoor fan is not directly controlled by the defrost board. If the inside fan is not working when the compressor and outdoor fan motors are, but does work when you put it to 'on' at the thermostat I would lean toward the indoor fan relay or thermostat.
@@johnjennings487 i have a package unit its all outside the fan does not have a relay or a capacitor
I need you help bro. Checked the low and high pressure switch. Im getting 24v out abd and back in. My issue is my unit run for 20-30 mins. Then it starts cutting on and shutting off every 2-3 mins. I lose the 24v from the cnt terminal. Is the relay possibly bad on the board.
Before I blamed the relay I would have to say to chek your refrigerant pressures. And double check the voltages while it is cycling on and off. I had a younger tech recently that got wrapped up in his head and was trying to find an electrical problem in the low pressure switch circuit. When I got to checking behind him it was just low on refrigerant and the pressure switch was turning it on and off as it should have done. Possibly an electrical issue but double check the refrigerant too.
I greatly appreciate the input! You are the man! I thought about the freon levels as well. That's why I was checking the low and high pressure switches. I checked when running and when it cycled off. In off the only thing that loss 24v was from cnt purple wire going to the starter contactor.
My defrost control board part # is PCBDM133.
I only see PCBDM133S available.
Do you know if this part will work?
What does the "S" mean?
Any help is much appreciated. Thank you!
The "S" is goodman substitution for the original pcbdm133. I don't know exactly what the 's' stands for but I doubt it is substitution! It should match up and work perfectly.
@johnjennings487 Thanks, man. My capacitor failed last night, and ACE Hardware, thankfully, was the only place open today that had one in stock. I went ahead and ordered another capacitor as a spare, and went ahead and ordered a 24-volt contactor as well as the defrost board all from Amazon. I wasn't sure if I was ordering the right part or not, but I did eventually find a defrost board with the exact part number I was looking for. It had the S in the description, but the board itself didn't have the S so I don't know what it means either, I just know the part is the same thing I have on my AC. You are the 2nd hvac guy I asked a question to today on RUclips, and you both answered within a few hours, so I want to say thanks again for all the advice. RUclips has saved me thousands of dollars in DIY repairs from lawnmowers, cars, trucks, chainsaws, dryers, washing machines, plumbing, carpentry, electrical, and HVAC. While I hate technology sometimes, it's also a blessing for these situations. Have a great evening and I hope you continue helping make the world a better place by helping people make repairs and save them money, especially in these trying times when it seems the world has gone downhill fast, with rampant inflation and a crumbling economy, people like you are needed more than ever. ✌️
What is a possible cause of those 3 grey resistor's being burnt down by the board??
I put it in one of the other comments somewhere...j dkn't know exactly but j think it has something to do with the wattage rating of those resistors. Maybe they are sized too perfectly and they just burn out?? Couldn't honestly say.
That Common you were using to test voltage on the contactor has 24v and no continuity with the other two commons on the board.. Think my board is bad?
The common that I check is the "main" common and of course is hardwired all the way back to the transformer through the t'stat wire we use to connect the indoor/outdoor unit. If you read 24V from the CNT terminal to that main common then the board is doing its job but the broken circuit from one common to the other isn't going to let the contactor pull in and turn the unit on. So long explanation short - Yes, I think your board is bad from what you have said.
@@johnjennings487 thanks for the reply. I'll be ordering one shortly. I have no power to CNT and constant 24v to the main common.
@@1994DLewis I just hope it works out good for you. Troubleshooting "over the phone" is a little different that in person just because people talk and describe things differently.
gonna put it to th etest. where do you flounder gig, I am in Wilmington, NC..
I have been gigging as far north as Jacksonville NC down to Murrell's Inlet SC. I hope to one day get to the Beaufort area in both of the Carolinas. I hear there are some nice fish.
Cool
Thanks.
Hi
Im only getting 17 Volts O-RV btwn C-RV Reverse valve selenoid making buzzing sound, i already swap defrost board looking for 24V still same symptoms ( pls any advice appreciated!
Most of the time when I see a partial voltage it seems to be because of a open circuit. Either the 'O' is open or the '24v Common'. If the unit is running, but only in heat mode because your RV is not energized...I would say you have an open 'O' circuit somewhere. Could be a weedeater ate up some wires, loose connection at wire nut, bad thermostat, etc. If the outdoor unit isn't running at all then it could be you lost the 24v common. So...i guess we start with the 'does it run question' and if so then what is it doing or not doing?
@@johnjennings487 unit is running on the heat mode on the nest thermostat cool mode as soon as i connect O terminal it switches to the cool mode but solenoid valve start making buzzing sound on 17 volts , i connect 2x3 ton same Goodman heat pump both running on the nest thermostats , 1 unit is good the other one is acting up. thank you for getting back to me !
If you have the same thermostat on both units you can swap the thermostats around and see if the unit works. Easy way to eliminate the thermostat being good/bad if you haven't done that already. If that doesn't so any good, you can go outside and jumper the 'R' to the 'O-rv' at the board, or use the wire nut connections to go 'R' to 'O' and see if the reversing valve stops all the buzzing and just works! That would eliminate the valve...and keep it in cool mode too! Otherwise it kinda sounds like a thermostat wire issue.
@johnjennings487 thank you for taking your time 🙏and share your experience!!!
@johnjennings487 Hi
I jumped R to the O at the board it stop buzzing, reverse valve switch to cooling, but condenser short cycles ( it runs for 30-40 seconds then stop delay for 5-7 minutes then again (
2 floor same 3 ton Goodman runs like a champion)
I appreciate 🙏 your help 🙏
Hello, I am having a problem with my HVAC, we are in winter and when the air turns off because it has already reached the temperature I want inside the house everything turns off, but on the outside unit the fan and compressor continue working, any idea why? Thank you
Hi! I am definitely not a professional but I have learned quite a bit troubleshooting my heat pump and maybe I can get you going in the right direction until someone with more knowledge can help. I just fixed mine a few minutes ago and came back to update my comment, which is right before yours. What kind of system do you have?
@@jennifermatoy8633 lennox
If something is on when it should be off...i tell people it is a switch that is likely stuck closed and not opening. The switch for the outside unit is the contactor. If you have an electrical test meter you could check some voltages but without that this is just an educated guess. If you take the cover off of the outdoor unit, you can located the contactor (google an image of a 1 pole or 2 pole hvac contactor) and the contactors switch is the little black piece halfway in from where power comes into it from the breaker. If you push on it and it is already down...it is closed. Do this with the thermostat in OFF and it should be able to be pushed down. If not it is stuck...and the unit is probably running anyway. Otherwise it might be a bad thermostat but i doubt it.
@@johnjennings487 Thank you very much, at first I thought it was something else but I changed that switch and it is working fine, I didn't think it was that because last year I changed that same contactor switch, because the unit didn't turn on, and this time it didn't turn off , good thing I had an extra switch, but anyway I am looking for a switch of a different brand or better quality, or a box full of switches, you never known 😅
How does the cnt get its 24v ?
According to the wiring diagram, there is a switch between the 'R' circuitry and the 'CNT' terminal that gets closed once the high pressure and low pressure switches are proven good.
Can you replace the old board b12260-08 with the new board pcbdm133s
Basic functions are the same. You would have to separate the low and high pressure switches, add a terminal end or three, but short answer is yes. You could replace it with the newer board.
Not as straight forward as I hoped. Thanks
Keep it simple is a good idea, these new boards are problematic , ie all techs can tell u story's about example Ameristar boards.
If this board goes out would it stop the outside unit completely? The inside unit is running the outside is not, it's not running on air conditioning or heat pump.
If it is a newer style defrost hoard then yes. It could very well stop the whole outdoor unit from running. The older style not likely since the y circuit never ran through it to get to the contactor.
@@johnjennings487 John thanks for responding. I watched your video and I went out there and made a voltage test and then I tested for the 24 volts which it was good. I took the cap off the low pressure side push the stem, evidently it doesn't have any freon in it. Apparently it has developed a leak. The creepy part is all these AC technicians I've contacted claim it's going to cost me $75 per pound plus service call and leak detection. I've never heard of freon being that high is this accurate?
Different companies charge differently depending on the refrigerant used. I've seen it charged more, I've seen it charged less. At least they mentioned a leak check!
@@johnjennings487 thank you for your time and I appreciate you getting back to me.
how are you able to read the board??
Not sure what you mean? Can you be a little more specific? Only 2 ways...read the layout of the terminals as they are printed on the board and reference the wiring diagram AND use a meter to understand how it works as far as switches closing, etc. Then again, time and field experience fills in a ot of blanks.
I also started putting up videos that i have made just so some of the guys i come across could simply watch and rewatch if needed. It takes time to get some of this stuff in your head the right way and actually know what you are doing with it.
Replaced t stat, worked for 5 days now nothing. Tech came out said bad board. Replaced board still nothing help!!
Nothing in or out
Many questions running in my head for this one. But we can try to figure it out. Why did you change the thermostat? Hit me up at jenningsj@hotmail.com. No promises, but if you have a voltmeter we can do some troubleshooting.
What if your control board keeps burning out
Where r24-r23-r22-r15-c1 are
Common issue I think. I knew a guy who worked at a part supplier and he would talk about that happening quite often. It seems to be something with the production. Nothing I know of but to change the board. If it is happening very often then I would have the service company you use maybe call goodman and see if they can send a rep out and look at it. That probably won't accomplish much but it may rattle the cage and get a better solution.
Can it be the fan cuz I changed the board and than the fan will kick on for 10-15 minutes and than won’t come back on
Can it be the fan cuz I changed the board and than the fan will kick on for 10-15 minutes and than won’t come back on
I doubt it is the fan that is burning up any resistors. If your fan is running, shutting off and then won't come back on...sounds like the thermal overload in the motor possibly. I would check the wiring on the capacitor/contactor/defrost board. Make sure they are correct before condemning the fan motor.
Man my Goodman 2 1/2 ton heat pump seems to be hitting a defrost step every time the compressor runs to make heat....the compressor starts then the fan turns off.....then as the air shoots through the fan comes on and all is normal....but it does it every time
If your compressor is running the fan should be too except that the outdoor fan does have one more switch in its circuit. And you probably guessed that it is used for defrost! The defrost board is probably turning it off but I would also check the defrost sensor.that is attached to the coil. Maybe it is staying closed and keeping it in defrost?
@@johnjennings487 I’m glad I found your comment. I’m having similar symptoms with my Goodman unit. I cut on the AC and the condenser fan kicks on and then kicks off after a few minutes. It seems the heat pump is short cycling and I’m suspecting a faulty defrost board or ambient temp sensor.
My unit may be going into defrost mode when it shouldn’t be.
Thoughts?
For myself and quite a few others, the short cycling would be cutting on and off repeatedly every few seconds. Something like that could be because of lack of refrigerant or the flow through the system. I don't want to assume that you have a leak and are low on refrigerant or have a problem with a metering device because you states it runs a few minutes before turning off. Have you (or has anyone) put refrigerant gauges on the unit to see what the system pressures are looking like? I wouldn't want to blame the defrost board necessarily but I guess it could be a board issue. When the fan cuts off does the compressor shut off as well?
@@johnjennings487 Thanks for your reply. I have thought about possibly being low on refrigerant. I recently looked at my defrost board and it’s actually a upgraded version of the original. When the fan cuts off, the compressor will get louder and you can hear the reversing valve. At this point, it’s room temperature air that’s coming out of the inside vents. With the fan on, it’s chill air but not freezing.
I have also been told that my compressor could be going into defrost mode while my AC is on. I also noted that my condenser motor is hot to the touch but I checked it after it ran and in the middle of the day.
Just some observations.
If that is the newer style goodman defrost board then it is designed to not allow defrost if the unit is cool mode. So it "shouldn't" allow that to happen. Of course it could be a relay issue with just the fan motor. Have you checked the capacitor on the heat pump outside? If the capacitor is going out then it would cause the fan/compressor to draw more amps and that creates heat...could cut the motor off on thermal overload. And last, but not least, maybe the fan is going out!
You didn't show how to check defrost timer on the board, if it will switch to defrost.
I'll go back and see what I can add to it. Thanks for the comment.
I have a GSZ160601BD outdoor unit with this same board in it (it's a goodman unit). I also have a AVPTC61D14BA air handler indoor unit. There is SUPPOSED to be a way to hook up the outdoor unit with 2 wires, but I cannot figure out WHERE the 2 data lines connect to the outdoor unit. PLEASE HELP! This is supposed to be a communicating setup but who ever installed this thing didn't do it correctly. I have the newer board by the way.
I just got up from my thanksgiving nap! I'll try to look at a few things in the manual and see what I can come up with.
It looks like the air handler is variable speed "communicating capable" and the outdoor unit is just a nice high SEER but not communicating. The manual eludes to having a transformer in the outdoor unit if it is a true communicating heat pump. I wonder if you do, in fact, have one in your outdoor unit?
@@johnjennings487 yeah, there is a transformer. I would send a pic but doesn’t look like I can do it in the comments here
I haven't seen that model so a pic would be nice. Try ---‐--- if you like. If the transformer is there then a 4 wire plug should be close. 1 2 R C?
@@johnjennings487 I sent the pics. There isn’t anything (connector or otherwise) labeled with RC12. The manual mentions the transformer and then says the data lines should be connected to terminal 1 and terminal 2. But that’s it. The Amana stuff I see online has controller boards very similar in appearance to the green PCB in my air handler, but that isn’t there in the outdoor unit. Just that board in the pic.
The board has to accumulate so much run time before it will defrost.
I'll take a time temperature over a demand any day of the week. Why u might ask? ()RELIABILITY). If it ain't broke don't fix it.
I agree. I like the time temp simplicity but we all know you don't always get to choose the call you go on.
your colors are off, purplelish you mean pink wire for contactor.
I have been known to be color blind at times but i think that unit has a purplish blue wire with a pink stripe.
@@johnjennings487 great video very informative 👏 👍 👌 😀
Thanks