UPDATE: The power supply portion of our Beta TPS kit (mentioned at 21:31) no longer requires splicing of any kind. The sensor power supply now clips directly into the diagnostic port itself using a waterproof connector (shown at 24:19). Jump to 26:02 to skip the outdated splicing instructions. All SmartCarb TPS kits use 100% soldered connections for maximum durability.
@@ow-my-achilles1106 The ECU may need some time to learn the TPS voltage sweep from idle to WOT, meaning it will need to see those voltage limits a few times in conjunction with engine RPMs to apply the oiling rate. Some moderate riding with a few WOT blips/pulls is advised. If the check light comes on, you can triple restart the bike to soft-jog the ECU's memory. Unplugging it from battery power for 30 seconds will also help to reset it if necessary. Make sure you're not using a throttle tamer or short-throw cam in the handset and that your cable slack isn't excessive. The throttle slide needs to reach all the way up while riding in order for the ECU to see that top voltage (over 4v) to work correctly.
@@SmartCarbFuelSystems Ok thanks! I have recently had the carb out to install the rebuild kit. After a lengthy ride (56 miles) I found the bike was over oiling (lot of spooge at the exhaust). And my yellow MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) was intermittently coming on/off during the ride. That might be a bad connection somewhere.
@@ow-my-achilles1106 It is a very sensitive system, and for good reason. Double checking the connections is advised and ensuring full throttle ability. What is the serial number of your SmartCarb?
@@SmartCarbFuelSystems Found the cause of my MIL lamp... Both wires to the oil pump broke at the pump solenoid connector. My carb serial is 36BAK02018 . At least I know it shouldn't be the TPS sensor causing an issue. It was intermittent during the ride and must have gone to full oiling (I think that's the emergency behavior of the ECU with a lost oil signal). I just have to fiddle with or hardwire the pump solenoid connector.
Nicely done video. Install looked nice and clean although I am not a fan of the inline wire connectors, they do work but my personal experiences have had them corrode rather quickly at the splice point. Would love to see how the bike performed. Keep the vids coming.
Thank you Vince, we hope it will be a helpful tool for current and future Beta owners looking to become SmartCarb Equipped! And yes, while the splice or inline connector we provide will work, soldering the connection or using butt connectors as gasgasman mentioned are more ideal long term.
@@SmartCarbFuelSystems No offense meant on the connector comment. I have been following the SC2 for 8 months now, I just can't bring myself to pull the trigger. My x-trainers Keihin carb does perform quite well, If I could ever have the opportunity to ride a bike equipped that would definitely help make my decision. If you can dig up comparison videos that would be helpful. Thanks,
@@vince5946 No offense taken, and we're glad you've been following along. It's a big decision and the best way to make it is to be fully informed. Test riding a bike with one is a great way to see, feel, and hear the differences. If you get a chance, take it. You can also check out 3rd party information and experiences. The SmartCarb Equipped Facebook Group is a great resource for seeing what SmartCarb owners are saying. You might also reach out to Gene at First Class Adventures for his input. He's a Beta brand ambassador based out of Colorado and he runs SC2 SmartCarbs on all of his 2T Beta rental bikes.
SmartCarb Fuel Systems hello, if my beta doesn’t have the premixed(no oil deposit) , I have to conect the smsrcarb to the diodo too?? Sorry for my English
That’s pretty awesome. I live 4 minutes from you guys just on the other side of 350. I just bought a new 2020 beta 300rr. Looking forward to putting some hours on the beta and the maybe upgrade to the SC2. Also have a 18 fc450 and a 19 klx140l. I wonder if your 25, or 28 would work on the klx140l. That carb is horrible. I would love to get something better in it. Cheers.
Small world! Well when you’re ready to get your Beta equipped let us know and we’ll pre-tune a 36mm SC2 for you for pick up. We’re also close to having a kit ready for the KLX140, in fact that should be ready in the next couple weeks. Give us a call and we’ll talk!
Hi guys. I just got a SmartCarb and love it! Got a question: The spark plug is coming out wet. Is this normal with SmartCarb or do I need to lean it with the clicker? The bike starts and runs great now, just wondering about the wetness.
If I understand correctly, pre-2018 carbs don't need a power supply for the TPS? So the one you sell for my 2016 300RR model (for example) only has the single, OEM type plug (i.e. no power supply)?
That's correct. Beta changed their ECU architecture sometime mid 2018 (an educated guess based on internal testing and feedback from our SmartCarb dealers who are also Beta dealers). The change lowers the amount of power that the ECU puts out to the TPS (ours requires 5 volts whereas the piezoelectric OEM Keihin sensor does not) which required us to source power for our sensor apart from the ECU and that version of the TPS is what we installed in the 2020 model 300RR in this video. Our earlier model Beta TPS simply plugs into the harness like the OEM sensor and pulls the power it needs from the ECU. We do know of one case where an earlier model ECU had been reflashed by a dealer which then caused the TPS to require external power but that seems so far to be a rare thing. A general guide to go off of is the color of the epoxy in the ECU - green being the earlier version and red being the later version. If going SmartCarb for your oil injected 2016 300RR, the Standard TPS is the one you would need. If the bike isn't oil injected then you don't need the TPS at all.
@@SmartCarbFuelSystems Is this the same case for a 2020 Race Edition? As they do not come with the oil injection. Do they still require the power supply?
@@SCHMIDT413 yes, the power supply version TPS is required, but only if you want the display light to turn off. That's all the TPS does in a 2020 RE. There is a way to disable the light if preferred but other than that, no reason to get the TPS unless looking to add oi later on, but then our TPS sensor is available separate and is user installable on any SC2 model SmartCarb. They all ship with the positioning magnet mounted in the throttle slide.
Please reach out to us via email or over the phone. It's possible that your setup is requiring a bit more fuel on the top end. A metering rod change may be necessary. Additionally we advise you to ensure no fuel tank venting restriction as it can cause a fuel flow restriction into the SmartCarb. We recommend using the stock fuel tank cap vent - not those stubby short ones or those with check-balls in them.
If you were going to remove the Beta oil injection on this bike other than using an SC2 with no TPS application, would you still need the BETA OI delete kit?
Yes, removing the oil injection is best performed with Beta's oil injection deletion kit. That said, in the absence of TPS, the display may still show an error light. You can disable it per Beta's oi delete kit instructions, ignore it, or give the ECU the TPS sweep it expects to see by using TPS either on the SmartCarb SC2 or on the stock Keihin PXK.
I bought this carburetor from you with a tps sensor and an oil injection. can i use it also without the oil injection? whether the cables can be disconnected
If you have removed the oil injection from your Beta you can simply leave the TPS connected. You will also need to adjust the metering rod about 15 clicks richer (clockwise). Premix requires a richer setting because the fuel is diluted with oil. If you've taken your SmartCarb to a different bike then you can remove the TPS using a 2.5mm allen key to remove the two screws holding it in place. Either way you will need to go about 15 clicks richer for proper fueling.
If stock we recommend the A-Q11 metering rod set to around 82 clicks from full rich to start with. If you're running a high compression head and/or are using a race fuel or you are riding very aggressively the step richer A-Q09 may suit you better, same clicker count. How do you ride this Beta? Any engine/exhaust mods?
@@SmartCarbFuelSystems I ride mostly hard enduro and single tracks, average rider (not a pro, not slow), no mods to engine/exhaust, no special fuel (only the normal lead free gas we have in Europe). Premix (50:1) with motul 710.
@@masalapiaga thank you for the good information. A-Q11 set to 82 clicks baseline to start with. It may be a little rich still at that setting and you may end up going leaner to further crisp/clean up the bottom end idle and off-idle response. For the bike, how you ride it, your oil selection, and the use of a SmartCarb you may consider going out to 60:1 if you still see spooge down the silencer after fully dialing the carb in.
I've followed this video on my 2020. But, on mine the air boot is touching the shock when the carb is fully seated. Did you have to do any trimming or notice this? Any recommendations?
Hi Andrew, is the shock spring touching the boot on the stand or on the ground, as in is the shock at full extension or not? Also are you running the stock shock or is it a larger diameter aftermarket one like the Ohlins for example? Slight contact is ok, the boot won't wear against the shock - it may simply shine up a little bit. We don't recommend trimming any length off of the boot but you can remove the reed block spacer if you're using one. That will move the carb forward a little bit which may help to alleviate spring contact.
No it's not. Beta only uses TPS for the oil injection. It's not used for ignition mapping or power-valve control so if you don't have oi there's no need for TPS. That said, unless you disabled it, the CEL or check engine light will come on if there is no TPS installed. The light can be disabled or ignored. Just know that if you're premixing, the light being on is meaningless at least and a distraction at most. Beta's oi delete kit should have instructions for disabling it. We hope this helps! Let us know if you have any further questions about the SmartCarb for your Xtrainer.
Thank you for the comment Johnny. We have since changed our TPS to connect to the diagnostic port through a sealed, weather-proof clip. No more splicing or soldering. We'll be changing that section of this video soon to reflect the updated design.
please dont use them splice connections they are prone to water ingress and also can cut and fray your power wire...and then you will lose your oil injection signal....
We no longer use splice connections and haven't in a long time. Our current TPS connectors are all plug-and-play with water-tight connectors and fully soldered connections, sourcing power directly from the diagnostic port.
@@bobellisp5 very nice. We recommend the 36mm size with no TPS. Your bike came with TPS stock, however, and so you can either ignore the check engine light that will come on in the absence of TPS or you can disable it per Beta's oil injection delete kit instructions (clipping the pink and/or purple wire). If the bike is stock or mostly stock the A-Q11 metering rod is advised. If you run fairly higher compression over stock then the step richer A-Q09 may be advised. Starting point should be about 80 clicks out from full rich. Reach out with any questions anytime, we're happy to help.
UPDATE: The power supply portion of our Beta TPS kit (mentioned at 21:31) no longer requires splicing of any kind. The sensor power supply now clips directly into the diagnostic port itself using a waterproof connector (shown at 24:19). Jump to 26:02 to skip the outdated splicing instructions.
All SmartCarb TPS kits use 100% soldered connections for maximum durability.
Is there any need to "teach" the TPS in the SmartCarb slide what the limit is? Will it oil correctly just plugging in and starting/riding?
@@ow-my-achilles1106 The ECU may need some time to learn the TPS voltage sweep from idle to WOT, meaning it will need to see those voltage limits a few times in conjunction with engine RPMs to apply the oiling rate. Some moderate riding with a few WOT blips/pulls is advised. If the check light comes on, you can triple restart the bike to soft-jog the ECU's memory. Unplugging it from battery power for 30 seconds will also help to reset it if necessary. Make sure you're not using a throttle tamer or short-throw cam in the handset and that your cable slack isn't excessive. The throttle slide needs to reach all the way up while riding in order for the ECU to see that top voltage (over 4v) to work correctly.
@@SmartCarbFuelSystems Ok thanks! I have recently had the carb out to install the rebuild kit. After a lengthy ride (56 miles) I found the bike was over oiling (lot of spooge at the exhaust). And my yellow MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) was intermittently coming on/off during the ride. That might be a bad connection somewhere.
@@ow-my-achilles1106 It is a very sensitive system, and for good reason. Double checking the connections is advised and ensuring full throttle ability.
What is the serial number of your SmartCarb?
@@SmartCarbFuelSystems Found the cause of my MIL lamp... Both wires to the oil pump broke at the pump solenoid connector. My carb serial is 36BAK02018 . At least I know it shouldn't be the TPS sensor causing an issue. It was intermittent during the ride and must have gone to full oiling (I think that's the emergency behavior of the ECU with a lost oil signal). I just have to fiddle with or hardwire the pump solenoid connector.
Just picked up a 2021 bets 250 rr with the oil injection. Def think this will be 1 of my first upgrades before anything else.
We've got just the carb for you!
Nicely done video. Install looked nice and clean although I am not a fan of the inline wire connectors, they do work but my personal experiences have had them corrode rather quickly at the splice point. Would love to see how the bike performed. Keep the vids coming.
ScotchLocks are the worst. Using water proof butt connectors would be way better.
Thank you Vince, we hope it will be a helpful tool for current and future Beta owners looking to become SmartCarb Equipped! And yes, while the splice or inline connector we provide will work, soldering the connection or using butt connectors as gasgasman mentioned are more ideal long term.
@@SmartCarbFuelSystems No offense meant on the connector comment.
I have been following the SC2 for 8 months now, I just can't bring myself to pull the trigger. My x-trainers Keihin carb does perform quite well, If I could ever have the opportunity to ride a bike equipped that would definitely help make my decision. If you can dig up comparison videos that would be helpful. Thanks,
@@vince5946 No offense taken, and we're glad you've been following along. It's a big decision and the best way to make it is to be fully informed. Test riding a bike with one is a great way to see, feel, and hear the differences. If you get a chance, take it. You can also check out 3rd party information and experiences. The SmartCarb Equipped Facebook Group is a great resource for seeing what SmartCarb owners are saying. You might also reach out to Gene at First Class Adventures for his input. He's a Beta brand ambassador based out of Colorado and he runs SC2 SmartCarbs on all of his 2T Beta rental bikes.
SmartCarb Fuel Systems hello, if my beta doesn’t have the premixed(no oil deposit) , I have to conect the smsrcarb to the diodo too?? Sorry for my English
That’s pretty awesome. I live 4 minutes from you guys just on the other side of 350. I just bought a new 2020 beta 300rr. Looking forward to putting some hours on the beta and the maybe upgrade to the SC2. Also have a 18 fc450 and a 19 klx140l. I wonder if your 25, or 28 would work on the klx140l. That carb is horrible. I would love to get something better in it. Cheers.
Small world! Well when you’re ready to get your Beta equipped let us know and we’ll pre-tune a 36mm SC2 for you for pick up. We’re also close to having a kit ready for the KLX140, in fact that should be ready in the next couple weeks. Give us a call and we’ll talk!
Now that Gas Gas has folded. Thanks to KTM.. This may well be my next bike, along with a smart carb!
you can still get a Gasgas just says Rieju on it and still made in Spain
Hi guys. I just got a SmartCarb and love it!
Got a question:
The spark plug is coming out wet. Is this normal with SmartCarb or do I need to lean it with the clicker?
The bike starts and runs great now, just wondering about the wetness.
Hello TE. I’ve acquired a SC2 recently and have a question:
Does the stock AQ-11 needle work for a 2015 KTM 200?
If I understand correctly, pre-2018 carbs don't need a power supply for the TPS? So the one you sell for my 2016 300RR model (for example) only has the single, OEM type plug (i.e. no power supply)?
That's correct. Beta changed their ECU architecture sometime mid 2018 (an educated guess based on internal testing and feedback from our SmartCarb dealers who are also Beta dealers). The change lowers the amount of power that the ECU puts out to the TPS (ours requires 5 volts whereas the piezoelectric OEM Keihin sensor does not) which required us to source power for our sensor apart from the ECU and that version of the TPS is what we installed in the 2020 model 300RR in this video.
Our earlier model Beta TPS simply plugs into the harness like the OEM sensor and pulls the power it needs from the ECU. We do know of one case where an earlier model ECU had been reflashed by a dealer which then caused the TPS to require external power but that seems so far to be a rare thing. A general guide to go off of is the color of the epoxy in the ECU - green being the earlier version and red being the later version.
If going SmartCarb for your oil injected 2016 300RR, the Standard TPS is the one you would need. If the bike isn't oil injected then you don't need the TPS at all.
@@SmartCarbFuelSystems Thank you. I now understand the options on your website for the TPS. Makes sense.
@@philt.9701 you're welcome. Let us know if we can answer any further questions.
@@SmartCarbFuelSystems Is this the same case for a 2020 Race Edition? As they do not come with the oil injection. Do they still require the power supply?
@@SCHMIDT413 yes, the power supply version TPS is required, but only if you want the display light to turn off. That's all the TPS does in a 2020 RE. There is a way to disable the light if preferred but other than that, no reason to get the TPS unless looking to add oi later on, but then our TPS sensor is available separate and is user installable on any SC2 model SmartCarb. They all ship with the positioning magnet mounted in the throttle slide.
Love it but sc2 sent it to me at 76 clicks I’m at 90 now. Runs amazing but falls on its face in 4th gear running people down on a fire road.
Please reach out to us via email or over the phone. It's possible that your setup is requiring a bit more fuel on the top end. A metering rod change may be necessary. Additionally we advise you to ensure no fuel tank venting restriction as it can cause a fuel flow restriction into the SmartCarb. We recommend using the stock fuel tank cap vent - not those stubby short ones or those with check-balls in them.
If you were going to remove the Beta oil injection on this bike other than using an SC2 with no TPS application, would you still need the BETA OI delete kit?
Yes, removing the oil injection is best performed with Beta's oil injection deletion kit. That said, in the absence of TPS, the display may still show an error light. You can disable it per Beta's oi delete kit instructions, ignore it, or give the ECU the TPS sweep it expects to see by using TPS either on the SmartCarb SC2 or on the stock Keihin PXK.
I bought this carburetor from you with a tps sensor and an oil injection. can i use it also without the oil injection? whether the cables can be disconnected
If you have removed the oil injection from your Beta you can simply leave the TPS connected. You will also need to adjust the metering rod about 15 clicks richer (clockwise). Premix requires a richer setting because the fuel is diluted with oil. If you've taken your SmartCarb to a different bike then you can remove the TPS using a 2.5mm allen key to remove the two screws holding it in place. Either way you will need to go about 15 clicks richer for proper fueling.
thank you for the quick reply. decent company 👍
Hi, which metering rod and how many clicks are right for my beta rr 300 2019 (premix 50:1) on a smartcarb sc2 36?
If stock we recommend the A-Q11 metering rod set to around 82 clicks from full rich to start with. If you're running a high compression head and/or are using a race fuel or you are riding very aggressively the step richer A-Q09 may suit you better, same clicker count. How do you ride this Beta? Any engine/exhaust mods?
@@SmartCarbFuelSystems I ride mostly hard enduro and single tracks, average rider (not a pro, not slow), no mods to engine/exhaust, no special fuel (only the normal lead free gas we have in Europe). Premix (50:1) with motul 710.
@@masalapiaga thank you for the good information. A-Q11 set to 82 clicks baseline to start with. It may be a little rich still at that setting and you may end up going leaner to further crisp/clean up the bottom end idle and off-idle response. For the bike, how you ride it, your oil selection, and the use of a SmartCarb you may consider going out to 60:1 if you still see spooge down the silencer after fully dialing the carb in.
@@SmartCarbFuelSystems Thank you so much.
Please do a tuning vid with rod adjustment and examples of what to do if you feel it’s lean or rich for initial setup. Great vid otherwise.
We'll be doing a general tuning video covering what adjustments to make and when in the coming days. Stay tuned!
no boot modification needed on a 2025?
Nope! None of the Beta models require the trim.
I've followed this video on my 2020. But, on mine the air boot is touching the shock when the carb is fully seated. Did you have to do any trimming or notice this? Any recommendations?
Hi Andrew, is the shock spring touching the boot on the stand or on the ground, as in is the shock at full extension or not? Also are you running the stock shock or is it a larger diameter aftermarket one like the Ohlins for example? Slight contact is ok, the boot won't wear against the shock - it may simply shine up a little bit. We don't recommend trimming any length off of the boot but you can remove the reed block spacer if you're using one. That will move the carb forward a little bit which may help to alleviate spring contact.
Hi there ! I have an Xtrainer 2020 , oil injection is removed , the TPS is necesary for SC2 in this situation ?
No it's not. Beta only uses TPS for the oil injection. It's not used for ignition mapping or power-valve control so if you don't have oi there's no need for TPS. That said, unless you disabled it, the CEL or check engine light will come on if there is no TPS installed. The light can be disabled or ignored. Just know that if you're premixing, the light being on is meaningless at least and a distraction at most. Beta's oi delete kit should have instructions for disabling it. We hope this helps! Let us know if you have any further questions about the SmartCarb for your Xtrainer.
That connection will not last moisture will destroy it in no time
Thank you for the comment Johnny. We have since changed our TPS to connect to the diagnostic port through a sealed, weather-proof clip. No more splicing or soldering. We'll be changing that section of this video soon to reflect the updated design.
please dont use them splice connections they are prone to water ingress and also can cut and fray your power wire...and then you will lose your oil injection signal....
We no longer use splice connections and haven't in a long time. Our current TPS connectors are all plug-and-play with water-tight connectors and fully soldered connections, sourcing power directly from the diagnostic port.
@@SmartCarbFuelSystems Ive just ordered a SC2 for my 22 Beta 300 rr non tps. Im in the uk so its coming from HTM racing Switzerland....
@@bobellisp5 very nice. We recommend the 36mm size with no TPS. Your bike came with TPS stock, however, and so you can either ignore the check engine light that will come on in the absence of TPS or you can disable it per Beta's oil injection delete kit instructions (clipping the pink and/or purple wire). If the bike is stock or mostly stock the A-Q11 metering rod is advised. If you run fairly higher compression over stock then the step richer A-Q09 may be advised. Starting point should be about 80 clicks out from full rich. Reach out with any questions anytime, we're happy to help.