I hear ya. It was not as bad as I thought. I thought I would need to take the hub apart and remove then reinstall. I looked at it like "This aint rocket science" hahahaha. But yeah, they work amazing. After 1200 miles they are holding strong and position. Just note the 1 degree was easy to install but the 1.5 degree, the side in this video started getting bound up and took some force to get it screwed all the way in. But 1.5 is an extreem and the max degree they make. Best of luck and let me know how it goes for ya.
Thanks is amazing that you so much for this. while i was changing my ball joint i noticed a tapered washer and have had the hardest time finding some info on it! thanks so much
I would say the outside of my tire is probably about half an inch to 3/4 of an inch out more than the bottom of the tire and I’m running 37 1250s. On the Dana 44 thanks ! If you can get back asap that would be rad.
I honestly did it with a digital angle finder from Amazon for $13. Not sure on inches I put it on the hub lock to find how far off zero I was per side and ordered the ones to get back to zero. Like passenger side was 1.5 degrees off and driver side was about .5 degrees off.
I'm helping a gal with a 2018 Wrangler Has negative camber and inside of tires are wearing out. Will do this. Did you get that sleeve to seat all the way. Maybe you could slightly grind the bottom several thousands to get it to sit lower and turn to where you wanted it.
I am confused, are you aligning a TJ or a Ford axle that happens to be on a TJ. If so, I would suggest modifying the title so people don't get mixed up. Good video.
We have different cars, but I watched this film to learn more about camber adjustment. May I know the name of the tool w/digital scale you are using to check the Camber alignment? I do some work on our cars, but recently came to a sad conclusion that it is very hard (at least for me) to find here in Dallas a reliable shop where they can do a professional alignment without damaging slightly you car (I mean tearing Rack and pinion Boots and disconnecting breather line). One of our cars is Chevy Cavalier (it has that breather line), and it is kind of hard to replace those boots on it (very limited space, unless you drop a subframe). And again if you replace the boot (I've learned to do it by disconnecting Inner and Outer Tire Rods, counting the # of open teeth before the Jam Nut, but after that you need to go and do another alignment, so you go in circle). Especially I observed once in one dealership the alignment was not done at all. More and more I think the workers at those fancy places are missing smth on operation of their alignment machines. So I'm thinking to learn and do maybe not so exact alignment, like with those machines at shops, but good enough, kind of old school alignment. Thank you for a great film.
@@SkyBlueOffRoad Thank you. I'll look on Amazon for angle finder. RUclips is a great university, I've also learned mostly everything on mechanic's work from RUclips.
Hi! Thanks for taking the time and make this video. I believe it is of great help. I have a question if I may...wich way did you put the top washer? Thick side out or in? You said you put the sleeve with the thinner side out so I got a bit confused. Thanks.
It all depends on how you have it adjusted. there is a gap and that washer just fills that gap. As you tighten the bolt on top, the washer should seat flat on the top of the "C" and the bolt should screw down flush . It there is a gap, turnthe washer to fill the gap with the wedge part.
Hey! Enjoyed the video. I am working on a 76 F150 HP D44 for my 99 TJ, Barnes truss kit, OX locker 4.88 etc. I cut and turned my Cs to gain caster and set the camber correct before welding. I am also building an 8.8 out of an 86 F150 for the rear to match the front width. (Should have them both completed and installed within the next two months) Did you go full width axles and what did you do in the rear? Did you notice any difference in how your TJ feels going down the road, turning radius etc.? Thank You
I kept the full width and on my 8.8 rear is out of a 99 explorer and I used 2" spacers to match the front closer. Once I do the super 88 kit I will match exactly. It drives good once I got the Barnes diy one ton steering dialed in. The radius is a little wider but not much. BUT on the trail my turning radius sucks due to the spool but with an OX you'll be close to normal.
@@SkyBlueOffRoad I was considering the super 88 kit(s) but I just couldn't get myself excited about the wheel bearings your forced to use. I am going to cut the axle tube ends off and weld on new style big Ford bearing ends. Moser makes them new $100 pair. Then I can use over the counter at ANY parts store big bearing wheel bearings and seals. So bigger better bearings and less chance of a leaking issue(no gaskets). Ford 9 inch axles are 31 spline, so get the correct length chomies and bullet proof 8.8 ,,, IMO better than the super 88 kits. I REALLY like Barnes stuff but unfortunately they are out of stock on the one ton kits for whoo knows how long at this point. I will be getting creative and designing something out of what I have and can find until I can get the Barnes stuff or I break it LOL.
Dude seriously helpful video. Thank you. Blows my mind that you don’t have more subs! Here’s one more :)
Ya made my day haha. Glad ya found us and thanks for the sub. More to come
Same set up on my ‘76 cj5 dana 30.
I was dreading it, but now, maybe not so much.
Thanks
I hear ya. It was not as bad as I thought. I thought I would need to take the hub apart and remove then reinstall. I looked at it like "This aint rocket science" hahahaha. But yeah, they work amazing. After 1200 miles they are holding strong and position. Just note the 1 degree was easy to install but the 1.5 degree, the side in this video started getting bound up and took some force to get it screwed all the way in. But 1.5 is an extreem and the max degree they make. Best of luck and let me know how it goes for ya.
Thanks is amazing that you so much for this. while i was changing my ball joint i noticed a tapered washer and have had the hardest time finding some info on it! thanks so much
Thank you for saying this. I made this video for this exact reason, in hopes it would help someone else. You made my day.
Big O Tire wanted $700 to fix my 87 K5 camber. You saved me a ton of money. Thanks! #skyblueoffroad! #bigotire
Thanks for the watch. This is why i made this video, to save someone some money. Cheers and best of luck out there
@@SkyBlueOffRoad Only one question. Having trouble getting stock sleeve out of my GM Corp 10 bolt. Should be the same concept correct? Thank you.
I would say the outside of my tire is probably about half an inch to 3/4 of an inch out more than the bottom of the tire and I’m running 37 1250s. On the Dana 44 thanks ! If you can get back asap that would be rad.
I honestly did it with a digital angle finder from Amazon for $13. Not sure on inches I put it on the hub lock to find how far off zero I was per side and ordered the ones to get back to zero. Like passenger side was 1.5 degrees off and driver side was about .5 degrees off.
I'm helping a gal with a 2018 Wrangler
Has negative camber and inside of tires are wearing out.
Will do this.
Did you get that sleeve to seat all the way.
Maybe you could slightly grind the bottom several thousands to get it to sit lower and turn to where you wanted it.
Yeah It was seated completely in the end and the tires have worn truly even. Very happy with the result and the simple process.
I have the same problem how far out was the wheel as far as inches go so I can kind of decide what degree to go with compared to what you did?
Hey man what’s the link to order this tool? Also the replaced part.
I got it at my local Napa. The box it came in says "Carlyle Tools 700-2467 Dana 44 Ball Joint Spanner Wrench"
@@SkyBlueOffRoad Thank you 🙏
I am confused, are you aligning a TJ or a Ford axle that happens to be on a TJ. If so, I would suggest modifying the title so people don't get mixed up. Good video.
In the video i explain the axles used and why. Thanks for watching
We have different cars, but I watched this film to learn more about camber adjustment. May I know the name of the tool w/digital scale you are using to check the Camber alignment? I do some work on our cars, but recently came to a sad conclusion that it is very hard (at least for me) to find here in Dallas a reliable shop where they can do a professional alignment without damaging slightly you car (I mean tearing Rack and pinion Boots and disconnecting breather line). One of our cars is Chevy Cavalier (it has that breather line), and it is kind of hard to replace those boots on it (very limited space, unless you drop a subframe). And again if you replace the boot (I've learned to do it by disconnecting Inner and Outer Tire Rods, counting the # of open teeth before the Jam Nut, but after that you need to go and do another alignment, so you go in circle). Especially I observed once in one dealership the alignment was not done at all. More and more I think the workers at those fancy places are missing smth on operation of their alignment machines. So I'm thinking to learn and do maybe not so exact alignment, like with those machines at shops, but good enough, kind of old school alignment. Thank you for a great film.
The digital tool is an angle finder. I got it on Amazon for about $12. Everything I know, I learned on youtube lol.
@@SkyBlueOffRoad Thank you. I'll look on Amazon for angle finder. RUclips is a great university, I've also learned mostly everything on mechanic's work from RUclips.
Hi! Thanks for taking the time and make this video. I believe it is of great help. I have a question if I may...wich way did you put the top washer? Thick side out or in?
You said you put the sleeve with the thinner side out so I got a bit confused. Thanks.
It all depends on how you have it adjusted. there is a gap and that washer just fills that gap. As you tighten the bolt on top, the washer should seat flat on the top of the "C" and the bolt should screw down flush . It there is a gap, turnthe washer to fill the gap with the wedge part.
@@SkyBlueOffRoad Ok thanks, I will give that a try 👍🏽
Hey! Enjoyed the video. I am working on a 76 F150 HP D44 for my 99 TJ, Barnes truss kit, OX locker 4.88 etc. I cut and turned my Cs to gain caster and set the camber correct before welding. I am also building an 8.8 out of an 86 F150 for the rear to match the front width. (Should have them both completed and installed within the next two months) Did you go full width axles and what did you do in the rear? Did you notice any difference in how your TJ feels going down the road, turning radius etc.? Thank You
I kept the full width and on my 8.8 rear is out of a 99 explorer and I used 2" spacers to match the front closer. Once I do the super 88 kit I will match exactly. It drives good once I got the Barnes diy one ton steering dialed in. The radius is a little wider but not much. BUT on the trail my turning radius sucks due to the spool but with an OX you'll be close to normal.
@@SkyBlueOffRoad I was considering the super 88 kit(s) but I just couldn't get myself excited about the wheel bearings your forced to use. I am going to cut the axle tube ends off and weld on new style big Ford bearing ends. Moser makes them new $100 pair. Then I can use over the counter at ANY parts store big bearing wheel bearings and seals. So bigger better bearings and less chance of a leaking issue(no gaskets). Ford 9 inch axles are 31 spline, so get the correct length chomies and bullet proof 8.8 ,,, IMO better than the super 88 kits. I REALLY like Barnes stuff but unfortunately they are out of stock on the one ton kits for whoo knows how long at this point. I will be getting creative and designing something out of what I have and can find until I can get the Barnes stuff or I break it LOL.
What truss are you using on your Dana 44?
It is the Next Venture Motorsports truss. (nextventuremotorsports.com/collections/axle-trusses/products/full-width-dana-44-swap-kit-for-tjljxjmj)
Wow nice subbed🙌
Thanks 🔥