Great video. Very informative and easily explains the process. Helps me understand the issues with my 87 YJ. Though I think it's mostly due to the 245k miles in OE ball joints and TREs. Use a metric tape measure. So much easier to read and figure out than deciphering fractions. 20 years at a body shop taught me that. Thanks
You rock! Your other vid (that made me subscribe to you!) clearly explained the leaf spring front not Jeeps and death wobble, and in my case (4” soa and n GM kingpin 60 front with 44 Boggers, I was able to figure out I needed more castor! Added 4* shims, adjusted my toe to @ 1/4” (it was over 3/4”!) and tightened my kingpin adjusters -tighter, and WAAAAAY BETTER!! Thanks!!!
The tie rod adjustment spun easily enough you could have just held the tape on the straight edge while you adjusted. Then the numbers would not get so confusing. Glad you finally got it figured out.
I have a 79 cj7 with a 4" lift. I installed steel, I believe 5 degree shim wedges. I also went with lift shackles front and rear, but not seriously long ones, just over stock. Since then I have been fighting this wobble. I can lean out and look down at the front wheels when they go into a minor wobble. It can shake pretty hard if you stay in that sweet spot where it likes to wobble at around 50 to 60 mph. About the only time it does it. I have long suspected the lift shackles, but never really heard anyone relate them to front end wobble until now. I just replaced the ball joints, I run the rugged Ridge Tie rod and drag link set up and they are flipped. New bearings and races also. So the next step is a front end alignment with a print out to see where my caster angle is really at. That and ordering me a new set of stock length Shackles. Do you have a preferred brand and maybe a part number to go by? Thanks.
@@superb60ce Thanks for the reply. I apricate the video as well. Very well done. I was glad even though you were working on the later model Jeep, you referred back to the CJ as well. So thanks for that. It helps guys like me who are still learning about these awesome vehicles. I tried setting my steering today and seem to have had no luck with it. Being it requires alignment anyways for the caster info, I decided to just stop and let someone with the right equipment just align everything. I had set the toe and steering wheel years ago when I upgraded the tie rod and drag link, but can't seem to get it this time. Just didn't have it in me today I guess. I seen those shackles today online. I think they describe them as the "zero lift" ones right? I liked those. They looked like they'd last a while. Again, Thanks for your time. You guys that make these informative videos are just invaluable. So thanks for doing the videos.
After swapping 4.5" RC lift w/ adjustable C/A's from my old XJ into my newest. Chased death wobble. Eliminated all possible worn parts and it was still there. Your recommendation definitely helped me. I had toe out condition of over an inch, although didn't feel darty. I brought it to .25" toe in, also lengthened lower control arms 3 turns. Wobble is gone. rig is high & tight now!
Many parts can cause death wobble, most likely if you have death wobble, it's time to replace front end parts, all tie rod ends, ball joints and new track bar, can be done for less than $400. if you a wrench guy. The biggest culprit on my 98 TJ was lower ball joints. 100,000 miles time to rebuild.
The one thing about death wobble that was overlooked in an otherwise well done video: make sure your tires are balanced! Large tires are difficult to balance and to keep in balance. And out of balance tire magnifies every other problem. I finally used 8 ounces of antifreeze in my 31” tires instead of balancing and death wobble/shimmy disappeared. Try it, maybe solves your problem too.
Yes, out of balance tires can cause severe vibrations that may lead to "Death Wobble" It is a total system, and any one thing can throw the entire system out of whack.
I read that death wobble is when the right tire hits a big bump and one wheel goes up and when it comes down the track bar pushes the axle out and starts the erratic back and forth through the tie rod
@@superb60ce - that's all true because I have a 2022 and it had it with 8,600 miles and I went into a forum and another guy had the exact same mileage when he had it. It's caused by design, and is almost inescapable. It seems everyone has a different idea, but i'm blaming it on the unfortunate design. I think it's a drag that these vehicles are coming from the factory like that, but in the long run i'm going to figure out a better modification. Because two things I know for sure and that's "complacency sucks", and "if it doesn't work, force it". If no one can figure out a better solution, they're just a follower. I'll take your or anyone's advice, but i'm going to exceed what's offered. Thanks for sharing.
@@d.s7741You are not wrong. The problem with the current crop of Fiat-Jeeps is that the combination of the bloated sprung AND un-sprung weight has exceeded the capability of the design.
Ok, I just have some questions. How come the adjustment is only done one the one side? How did you make sure it was (relatively)straight to begin with? Did you just drive it in and hold the steering wheel straight as possible? I'm not questioning your method, it just seems to me that the only wheel moving is the driver side. I don't mean to sound ignorant, I just need to do this. I have a YJ that basically has an aftermarket Coil Over Suspension on it similar to a TJ's. And it darts all over the road on curves.
Most regular garages do not fix a jeep that has been lifted.....the adjustments are different on a stock jeep and a jeep with a lift...they just put it to stock specs....its frustrating.
@@superb60ce for sure but if its just an offroad pig i see no issue, on road use yes ill say new axle all day, im going thru my YJ right now, recently picked up the dreaded death wobble lolol, so far i see a cpl tierod ends kinda loose n some rubber bushings that could use a replace lolol
Dodge ,Jeep dealers offer offset ball joints . From 0.5 to 1.0 and 1.5 you would not believe the number of brand new jeeps and trucks that need this corretion . The jegs they use to build these are worn out . you will not believe how nice the Jeep will drive with a .5 deg split in caster . I’m a retired Chrysler,Plymouth,Dodge,Jeep, Eagle mechanic with 25 years experience . Ase master tech , Chrysler master tech .
The JK has very similar suspension geometry to the TJ. Most death wobble will be cured by ensuring all components are within spec and the alignment is correct. However, the JK and subsequent models all use much larger and heavier tires than the earlier models, and I suspect that that contributes to wobble.
@@superb60ce Understood, have them. Don't know how to check castor or what it should be set to and how that might impact pinion angle. The title of your video led me to believe I would gain some understanding. It didn't. That's why I made the original post.
MOST informative video I’ve seen for the DIY’er. Thanks a million.
Glad it was helpful!
So far, one of best explanation of death wobble I've seen. And I have a TJ!!! Great video!
Great video. Very informative and easily explains the process. Helps me understand the issues with my 87 YJ. Though I think it's mostly due to the 245k miles in OE ball joints and TREs.
Use a metric tape measure. So much easier to read and figure out than deciphering fractions. 20 years at a body shop taught me that.
Thanks
Metric tape, good idea
Thanks for this explanation. I have a XJ and lifting it almost 3 inches and both adjustable arms. Now i understand how to adjust all. 😉
Right on!
TY, trying to figure out the wobble on the '00 now. This will help a lot. Very informative
You rock! Your other vid (that made me subscribe to you!) clearly explained the leaf spring front not Jeeps and death wobble, and in my case (4” soa and n GM kingpin 60 front with 44 Boggers, I was able to figure out I needed more castor! Added 4* shims, adjusted my toe to @ 1/4” (it was over 3/4”!) and tightened my kingpin adjusters -tighter, and WAAAAAY BETTER!! Thanks!!!
Glad to help
The tie rod adjustment spun easily enough you could have just held the tape on the straight edge while you adjusted. Then the numbers would not get so confusing. Glad you finally got it figured out.
It gets confusing because having been an aircraft mechanic, I try to get too precise sometimes
@@superb60ce I hear you. I'm in Quality control at 3M and my precision OCD drives my coworker nuts sometimes.
Great info. Thanks for this. I’ll keep my K5 Blazer lined up so I can help those Jeeps get unstuck! 😊
I love the old K5
I have a 79 cj7 with a 4" lift. I installed steel, I believe 5 degree shim wedges. I also went with lift shackles front and rear, but not seriously long ones, just over stock. Since then I have been fighting this wobble. I can lean out and look down at the front wheels when they go into a minor wobble. It can shake pretty hard if you stay in that sweet spot where it likes to wobble at around 50 to 60 mph. About the only time it does it. I have long suspected the lift shackles, but never really heard anyone relate them to front end wobble until now. I just replaced the ball joints, I run the rugged Ridge Tie rod and drag link set up and they are flipped. New bearings and races also. So the next step is a front end alignment with a print out to see where my caster angle is really at. That and ordering me a new set of stock length Shackles. Do you have a preferred brand and maybe a part number to go by? Thanks.
I recommend Warrior Products heavy duty non lift shackles. They are made in The USA and are very beefy.
@@superb60ce Thanks for the reply. I apricate the video as well. Very well done. I was glad even though you were working on the later model Jeep, you referred back to the CJ as well. So thanks for that. It helps guys like me who are still learning about these awesome vehicles. I tried setting my steering today and seem to have had no luck with it. Being it requires alignment anyways for the caster info, I decided to just stop and let someone with the right equipment just align everything. I had set the toe and steering wheel years ago when I upgraded the tie rod and drag link, but can't seem to get it this time. Just didn't have it in me today I guess.
I seen those shackles today online. I think they describe them as the "zero lift" ones right? I liked those. They looked like they'd last a while. Again, Thanks for your time. You guys that make these informative videos are just invaluable. So thanks for doing the videos.
I have 2006 TJ with issues and this is Very informative.. thanks.
You're Welcome
After swapping 4.5" RC lift w/ adjustable C/A's from my old XJ into my newest. Chased death wobble. Eliminated all possible worn parts and it was still there. Your recommendation definitely helped me. I had toe out condition of over an inch, although didn't feel darty. I brought it to .25" toe in, also lengthened lower control arms 3 turns. Wobble is gone. rig is high & tight now!
Glad to hear it
Excellent video and explanation sir. Thank very much
You're Welcome
Great video. Always good refresher. Keep it up.
Thanks
Many parts can cause death wobble, most likely if you have death wobble, it's time to replace front end parts, all tie rod ends, ball joints and new track bar, can be done for less than $400. if you a wrench guy. The biggest culprit on my 98 TJ was lower ball joints. 100,000 miles time to rebuild.
Yes, but all things perfect, the culprit is alignment
Thank you so much for doing this video! Helped so much!
Glad it helped!
great video. My jk never caused a death wobble but this dang JT is aawwffuulll. freakn horrible
IMHO, the size of the tires (overall Diameter and weight) has outgrown the design of the suspension
Great vid. Thanks man!
Glad you liked it!
The one thing about death wobble that was overlooked in an otherwise well done video: make sure your tires are balanced! Large tires are difficult to balance and to keep in balance. And out of balance tire magnifies every other problem. I finally used 8 ounces of antifreeze in my 31” tires instead of balancing and death wobble/shimmy disappeared. Try it, maybe solves your problem too.
Yes, out of balance tires can cause severe vibrations that may lead to "Death Wobble" It is a total system, and any one thing can throw the entire system out of whack.
🤡
I read that death wobble is when the right tire hits a big bump and one wheel goes up and when it comes down the track bar pushes the axle out and starts the erratic back and forth through the tie rod
At the end of the day, there are only two root causes for "Death Wobble", worn out suspension components and poor wheel alignment
@@superb60ce - that's all true because I have a 2022 and it had it with 8,600 miles and I went into a forum and another guy had the exact same mileage when he had it. It's caused by design, and is almost inescapable. It seems everyone has a different idea, but i'm blaming it on the unfortunate design. I think it's a drag that these vehicles are coming from the factory like that, but in the long run i'm going to figure out a better modification. Because two things I know for sure and that's "complacency sucks", and "if it doesn't work, force it". If no one can figure out a better solution, they're just a follower. I'll take your or anyone's advice, but i'm going to exceed what's offered. Thanks for sharing.
@@d.s7741You are not wrong. The problem with the current crop of Fiat-Jeeps is that the combination of the bloated sprung AND un-sprung weight has exceeded the capability of the design.
On point 👍
"17/16ths... so that's 6/16ths" 😂😂😂😂 defeats the meaning of fraction; I'd hate to see him doing 128ths on a vernier 😅
A machinist I am not, I am a retired aircraft mechanic...my son and I still laugh at this video...head got jumbled with the initial measurements
This is why the metric system is superior 😂
@@chrisstricklin4378 25yrs as a military aviation mechanic, most of it spent outside the USA...you are not wrong
@@superb60ce17/16 is 1-1/16
Ok, I just have some questions. How come the adjustment is only done one the one side? How did you make sure it was (relatively)straight to begin with? Did you just drive it in and hold the steering wheel straight as possible? I'm not questioning your method, it just seems to me that the only wheel moving is the driver side. I don't mean to sound ignorant, I just need to do this. I have a YJ that basically has an aftermarket Coil Over Suspension on it similar to a TJ's. And it darts all over the road on curves.
Drag link adjusts the steering wheel, tie rod adjusts the toe. Only one adjustment on tie rod
What if the jeep has never been lifted? We're talking stright stock.
How is that fixed?
Most likely, you have worn out suspension and / or steering components. Check tie rod ends, ball joints, track bar end, and suspension bushings
what about cam bolts on lower control arms
Yes, those are available
I'm assuming you leveled the steering wheel before doing this so your Jeep logo horn bag isn't crooked driving down the road.
Drag link adjustments, to straighten steering wheel, are done after the toe is set
Most regular garages do not fix a jeep that has been lifted.....the adjustments are different on a stock jeep and a jeep with a lift...they just put it to stock specs....its frustrating.
Yup
When can you fix my death wobble. I’m ready when you are! Lbvs
Bring it
Your rotors are not bolted securely to the hubs. How can you possibly get accurate measurements????
Valid question.; Between the factory rotor securing clips and the clamps, they are quite secure for this purpose
where is your shop
Anderson, SC
Can buy offset/adjustable balljoints or extended ears for camber, not recommended but they do make em
They are such a band-aid that I would never even consider it. A replacement axle is always a better solution.
@@superb60ce for sure but if its just an offroad pig i see no issue, on road use yes ill say new axle all day, im going thru my YJ right now, recently picked up the dreaded death wobble lolol, so far i see a cpl tierod ends kinda loose n some rubber bushings that could use a replace lolol
Dodge ,Jeep dealers offer offset ball joints . From 0.5 to 1.0 and 1.5 you would not believe the number of brand new jeeps and trucks that need this corretion . The jegs they use to build these are worn out . you will not believe how nice the Jeep will drive with a .5 deg split in caster . I’m a retired Chrysler,Plymouth,Dodge,Jeep, Eagle mechanic with 25 years experience . Ase master tech , Chrysler master tech .
what about a JK?
The JK has very similar suspension geometry to the TJ. Most death wobble will be cured by ensuring all components are within spec and the alignment is correct. However, the JK and subsequent models all use much larger and heavier tires than the earlier models, and I suspect that that contributes to wobble.
Bet that thing was fun to drive with that much toe to start with...
The extra toe-in causes excess wear and heavy steering. Extra toe out is a handful, very darty
No time on checking and adjusting castor.
With stock components on a Jeep, castor is non-adjustable
@@superb60ce Agreed. I purchased an LJ with lift that hunts all over the road. Looking for answers
@@jamesdegraff adjustable control arms
@@superb60ce Understood, have them. Don't know how to check castor or what it should be set to and how that might impact pinion angle. The title of your video led me to believe I would gain some understanding. It didn't. That's why I made the original post.
So no cure demonstrated on the TJ.
The cure is to ensure all the suspension and steering components are not worn, tires are balanced, and alignment is correct
man said 6/16. 🤯
yep, I did.
whats 3/8s to you is 6/16s to him
Its not a true statement that there is no adjustment for camber on a jeep... ever heard of offset ball joints??
I'm not going to have a philosophical discussion about the differences between an adjustment and replacement parts. lol
Funny how wj isnt included
Not funny, just an error on my part...applies to wj as well
Never hurts to measure a bunch.
Apparently you need to learn how to read a tape measure
Measure twice, adjust once
Trac bar is the biggest culprit of death wobble
Yes. ALL the suspension bushings should be checked
Awesome info on this video, many thanks.
Perhaps this is one time where Metric would make splitting the difference easier ⚖ 🧮
Great point!