I have watched and liked a lot of your spider videos and wanted to let you know I appreciate all the trouble you go through to produce them. International auto parts used to make some really professional ones, and I always wished they or some other parts retailer would continue to do so. You have taken up the torch, and it is very helpful when people need to do some of these repairs , to see your videos. Thank you
Another excellent video. I just did mine. I’m wondering if that small movement with a tight feeler is the valve moving or if instead the shim is pushing out some oil. I didn’t get all of the oil out of the cam housings and the shims seemed to float a little in the oil. My engine is a rebuild so I’ll recheck them after break-in. I’m still not sure how tight the gap should be. When I do a single under-head cam with rockers, setting the lash isn’t ambiguous at all. This is all new and mysterious to me.
Light drag on the feeler gauge is what you're looking for. If you have to force the next bigger size in you're good. Probably not going to have enough force to compress the valve.
3 Yr old video but I will comment:) Good job first of all! #1 For me, the math is easier using metric. Especially when you know what shim you got in there. #2 They sell shims in .05mm increments; why were you looking at 4.20 or 4.30, skipping the 4.25 that would put you in the middle of spec range? #3 You got me on the feeler gage use, I very likely am running tighter than I thought, but if I calculate in the middle of the spec range by being able to drag the feeler across and feeling perhaps to much drag then OK.... the next smaller size on my set is usually 0.03mm smaller (without using a couple feelers to nail the measurement) and it passes free with no contact so I can only get so close with my shim selection afterall ...... Something to be aware of for sure. My Pa always told me I used it slightly tight, he was a motor machinist.
I have watched and liked a lot of your spider videos and wanted to let you know I appreciate all the trouble you go through to produce them. International auto parts used to make some really professional ones, and I always wished they or some other parts retailer would continue to do so. You have taken up the torch, and it is very helpful when people need to do some of these repairs , to see your videos. Thank you
You're welcome, hope they help
Another excellent video. I just did mine. I’m wondering if that small movement with a tight feeler is the valve moving or if instead the shim is pushing out some oil. I didn’t get all of the oil out of the cam housings and the shims seemed to float a little in the oil. My engine is a rebuild so I’ll recheck them after break-in. I’m still not sure how tight the gap should be. When I do a single under-head cam with rockers, setting the lash isn’t ambiguous at all. This is all new and mysterious to me.
Light drag on the feeler gauge is what you're looking for. If you have to force the next bigger size in you're good. Probably not going to have enough force to compress the valve.
3 Yr old video but I will comment:) Good job first of all!
#1 For me, the math is easier using metric. Especially when you know what shim you got in there.
#2 They sell shims in .05mm increments; why were you looking at 4.20 or 4.30, skipping the 4.25 that would put you in the middle of spec range?
#3 You got me on the feeler gage use, I very likely am running tighter than I thought, but if I calculate in the middle of the spec range by being able to drag the feeler across and feeling perhaps to much drag then OK.... the next smaller size on my set is usually 0.03mm smaller (without using a couple feelers to nail the measurement) and it passes free with no contact so I can only get so close with my shim selection afterall ...... Something to be aware of for sure. My Pa always told me I used it slightly tight, he was a motor machinist.
I think slightly tight is better, it will wear a little due to use.
So what made you re-measure the clearance? Was the motor running noticeably loudly?
Yes the shims/valves were rattling, most likely due the the thickness of the new cam box gasket.