BTW Gates (who have made millions of belts over the decades for damn near everything) also sell an inexpensive tension gauge. Smart mechanics check belt tension on all their belts including shop equipment because fried bearings make babby Jeebus cry.
are you suppose to check the tension of the belt with the bike on the ground and a rider on it? I have also heard that the sprockets should be warmed up to take in account of their expansion.
TalklikeAPirate We refer you to check your service manual for your particular machine. Some model bikes require it and some not. So you would want to see if your bike requires it or not?
Should be setting belt slack with a rider on the bike and wheel on the ground. And even then roll the bike a few feet several times and check tension again. I see no need for a tension gauge when you can feel very close to the same freedom as a chain gives you when you deflect it. Some people worry that if these belts aren't snug like a fiddle string that the belt will climb the "sprocket" teeth but this is simply not true. Too tight and you put more wear and tear on bearings and sometimes will get the belt to squeak. A little easy to feel play similar to a chain has worked for me on my sturgis belt drive for 36 years and 103,000 miles.
It's too bad you can't buy repair belts for the rear of the big Harleys anymore. So many people think you will never need one but they are wrong. Sooner or later the belt will break and then what? Only takes 25 minutes to put one on at the side of the road. Since not very many had the brains to buy one they quit making them. I still have mine. At least on a Sportster you can put a belt on the rear easily so I carry one extra in then saddle bag.
@Warren S. if the belt squeaks it is too tight. Check for belt movement while you are sitting on it. There should be a slight play just like you would adjust a chain. I have run a sturgis belt drive on my 79 Superglide for 40 years and 103,000 miles. Even ten pounds tension on your belt may cause a squeak.
You DON'T check the tension with "the riders weight on the bike". You check it either on the jiffy stand, or upright...either way, definitely NOT with someone sitting on it !
@D.J. Miles. You want to know the belt tension while sitting on it. That is how you keep from having from having a belt that is too tight which is the last thing you want. Go ahead and get your ten pounds tension if you like that way but be sure to sit on the bike, as a final check, and feel the belt tension. It should feel similar to a properly adjusted chain.
@@bottmar1 YouMy reply was based on specific instructions from the HD Service Manual. The exact same manual used by HD Techs...and the only one I use as well. Table 1-11. Rear Belt Deflection: "With motorcycle on jiffy stand without rider or luggage". OR "Vehicle upright with rear wheel in the air". I've been wrenching on all my rides for over 40 years, so I feel the comment I made that you replied to is accurate, not only based on my experience, but also based on what's prescribed in HD service manual. I wouldn't make a suggestion unless I knew it was correct. That having been said, thanks for your comment...happy riding !
@D.J. Miles. Thanks for your fast reply. It is still important to final check the belt with weight on it as there are some bikes that do not follow the norms. One problem with swing arms is they are inherently prone to change belt and chain tensions at various weight loads plus there are differences from one cycle to another in actual dimensions. I too have worked on my cycles for over fifty years. All of the videos I see on RUclips are all missing that final check I speak of. There is a little too much trust in factory suggested methods. I have found enough times that a factory method ends up being too tight at ride height levels so I never send a cycle out without feeling the belt while sitting on it. It is especially important for others that do not have mechanical experience, that read this, do the final check. Have a good day.
@@bottmar1 Yup...I hear ya. I don't even use the gauge...more like a push a couple times, then a little twist action. For old timers like us, it's more like a "feel" thing, right ! And yes, I agree that it will be a bit tighter under load, that's why I tend to set it a bit looser rather than stiffer. Nice chatting with you...nice to know there's others out there that take pride in their ride, and do the work themselves. For me, that's part of the enjoyment of having a scoot...well, for the most part...sometimes it's a BITCH ! 😆 Take care...
If you're an idiot, by all means take it to a dealer. That way they can tell you the breaks, tires, wheel, belt guard, tail lights, risers, triple tree, gas tank, seat, swing arm and paint are wore out and need to be replaced immediately. Or you can buy a Chiltons or Clymer and figure it out your self.
FUGYOO.... Not true. had my rear tire replaced on my 97 Road King. The mechanic, didn't install the belt properly. My belt was riding up on the inside of the pulley causing my Bike to pull to the left. So, even mechanics can also be idiots.
The deflection is normally done from the bottom of the belt not the top, that's why there is increments on the bottom belt guard.
I'm so glad RUclips exists and people like you post videos.
Should've checked the rear wheel alignment while you had the axle loose.
good job on the info , very clear and simple, thanks
I Can't Find the BELT LINK to Replace my Belt.
Wish you had shown us how to align the wheel
BTW Gates (who have made millions of belts over the decades for damn near everything) also sell an inexpensive tension gauge. Smart mechanics check belt tension on all their belts including shop equipment because fried bearings make babby Jeebus cry.
are you suppose to check the tension of the belt with the bike on the ground and a rider on it? I have also heard that the sprockets should be warmed up to take in account of their expansion.
TalklikeAPirate We refer you to check your service manual for your particular machine. Some model bikes require it and some not. So you would want to see if your bike requires it or not?
We’re to find or how to do the engine transmission alignment to frame to wheels.
Should be setting belt slack with a rider on the bike and wheel on the ground. And even then roll the bike a few feet several times and check tension again. I see no need for a tension gauge when you can feel very close to the same freedom as a chain gives you when you deflect it. Some people worry that if these belts aren't snug like a fiddle string that the belt will climb the "sprocket" teeth but this is simply not true. Too tight and you put more wear and tear on bearings and sometimes will get the belt to squeak. A little easy to feel play similar to a chain has worked for me on my sturgis belt drive for 36 years and 103,000 miles.
I use a fish scale and a string to get my 10 lbs. HD dealer taught me that years ago.
This was helpful, but would have been more-so if you told us what torque to set the axle bolt to.
What about the wheel alignment, will that change after loosening the adjusting locknut? Thanks!!
You can go around corners better if you only adjust one side.
@@slit4659 Holy cow, that is one single purpose modification! ;-)
When adjusting axle nuts? Rear wheel fully on the ground?
No you adjust it lifted. Tighten axle then check belt tension on the ground
Just grab the belt and see if it has a little slack in it. You don't need a freaking gauge. This should just be intuitive.
great and informative video!!!
It's too bad you can't buy repair belts for the rear of the big Harleys anymore. So many people think you will never need one but they are wrong. Sooner or later the belt will break and then what? Only takes 25 minutes to put one on at the side of the road. Since not very many had the brains to buy one they quit making them. I still have mine. At least on a Sportster you can put a belt on the rear easily so I carry one extra in then saddle bag.
Have you seen or heard of belt squeaking alot on a street 500. Anyone have any ideas or remedies?
@Warren S. if the belt squeaks it is too tight. Check for belt movement while you are sitting on it. There should be a slight play just like you would adjust a chain. I have run a sturgis belt drive on my 79 Superglide for 40 years and 103,000 miles. Even ten pounds tension on your belt may cause a squeak.
@@bottmar1 i put that on 3 years ago. The cause was the rear wheel alignment was out. Belt was rubbing on the guide. Thankyou though.
Forgot about belt alignment.
o sistema de esticador é igual de uma Mobilete,
5:15 nice selfie 😬😆
You DON'T check the tension with "the riders weight on the bike". You check it either on the jiffy stand, or upright...either way, definitely NOT with someone sitting on it !
@D.J. Miles. You want to know the belt tension while sitting on it. That is how you keep from having from having a belt that is too tight which is the last thing you want. Go ahead and get your ten pounds tension if you like that way but be sure to sit on the bike, as a final check, and feel the belt tension. It should feel similar to a properly adjusted chain.
@@bottmar1 YouMy reply was based on specific instructions from the HD Service Manual. The exact same manual used by HD Techs...and the only one I use as well.
Table 1-11. Rear Belt Deflection:
"With motorcycle on jiffy stand without rider or luggage".
OR
"Vehicle upright with rear wheel in the air".
I've been wrenching on all my rides for over 40 years, so I feel the comment I made that you replied to is accurate, not only based on my experience, but also based on what's prescribed in HD service manual. I wouldn't make a suggestion unless I knew it was correct.
That having been said, thanks for your comment...happy riding !
@D.J. Miles. Thanks for your fast reply. It is still important to final check the belt with weight on it as there are some bikes that do not follow the norms. One problem with swing arms is they are inherently prone to change belt and chain tensions at various weight loads plus there are differences from one cycle to another in actual dimensions. I too have worked on my cycles for over fifty years. All of the videos I see on RUclips are all missing that final check I speak of. There is a little too much trust in factory suggested methods. I have found enough times that a factory method ends up being too tight at ride height levels so I never send a cycle out without feeling the belt while sitting on it. It is especially important for others that do not have mechanical experience, that read this, do the final check. Have a good day.
@@bottmar1 Yup...I hear ya. I don't even use the gauge...more like a push a couple times, then a little twist action.
For old timers like us, it's more like a "feel" thing, right ! And yes, I agree that it will be a bit tighter under load, that's why I tend to set it a bit looser rather than stiffer. Nice chatting with you...nice to know there's others out there that take pride in their ride, and do the work themselves. For me, that's part of the enjoyment of having a scoot...well, for the most part...sometimes it's a BITCH !
😆 Take care...
Могу поменять мотоцикл ретро старый 1968года Ural на Харлей Дэвидсон!живу в России пишите мне!Живу в России
If you're an idiot, by all means take it to a dealer. That way they can tell you the breaks, tires, wheel, belt guard, tail lights, risers, triple tree, gas tank, seat, swing arm and paint are wore out and need to be replaced immediately. Or you can buy a Chiltons or Clymer and figure it out your self.
FUGYOO.... Not true. had my rear tire replaced on my 97 Road King. The mechanic, didn't install the belt properly. My belt was riding up on the inside of the pulley
causing my Bike to pull to the left. So, even mechanics can also be idiots.
them snap on tools tho
for old bike , not new. wasted my time.