next time, instead of towing your truck to get the refrigerant pulled out at a shop, just crack open one of the AC lines while the vehicle is outside and let it leak out into the air. R134a really isn't that bad. old school freon (R12) was the refrigerant that was dangerous to do that on, both for the environment and to humans, but that hasn't been used in cars in a few decades. i'm not saying i would hang around and huff on the R134a fumes, but just let it leak out and go get a beer while it is draining and then you are all set.
My question is, the bolt you had a hard time finding, with the clip that holds the hose, is that the screw by the transmission dipstick? Ive a 2000 durango that I need to replace the heater core on and cant find the one in the middle. Thanks.
@@michaelhoffman6417 hey I know it's been a long time since you posted this but I'm doing this project right now on my 2000 Durango. How do I access the bolt and nut all the way down behind the tranny dipstick? I can't get a socket on it due to the lack of space between the dipsick and the threads. Does the dipstick tube come out first?
I do have one question where is there blower motor resistor at? I have been working on my 99 slt durango and I cant not find where its at. Everyone says its on the fire wall under the glove box but there isn't anything there.
Sorry, but didn't think to make the video until I already had it out. But the dash is pretty straight forward. Just make sure to disconnect all the grounding wires and electrical wires. Then you pretty much just unscrew everything. You're gonna have to drop down the steering column too. Here a good video. It's fast forwarded but you'll see everything you gotta do. Durango Heater Core
Michael Hoffman No worries, I'm swapping out my grey interior with black R/T interior so I just needed to get the dash "skin" out, not the entire thing. I got it out though, thanks anyways!
I thought of a time-saving shortcut. Pull the engine and cut a hole through the firewall and another through the heater core housing. Once done glue/tape the housing 'access panel' back on then rivet the chunk of firewall back in. Or replace it with a slightly larger piece of sheet metal, sealing it good to prevent leaks.
Michael Hoffman the nut is right behind a little bracket and that's behind the valve cover. just seem to be stuck here lol its the last dam nut that needs to come off
The one I mention at 4:10? You don't really have to know where it is, just disconnect it from the nipple on the engine side, and it'll just come with when you pull the HVAC out.
@@michaelhoffman6417 on mine its broken at the nipple side and on the part where it comes out the fire wall n I couldn't find where that vacuum went and it wouldn't blow out the vents only blows out the defrost but I kept watching the video n saw it goes right under the heater hoses so tomorrow I'm going to run a line n c if it work but man your vid helped out a lot thanks bro if that vacuum ain't connected it only blows threw defrost or what
This vid helped me alot I was stuck I didn't know there was a bolt behind the dip stick
Thanks Brother! I froze it at :25 and thats all I needed!!!!!
Thanks a lot man :) Really helped me out
You're welcome. I'm glad it helped.
3:36 Did you tell the dog to fuck off? lmfao
Nice truck btw. 99's were its at :)
+Lyle A. Taylor II Agreed, I have 406K + on mine...
next time, instead of towing your truck to get the refrigerant pulled out at a shop, just crack open one of the AC lines while the vehicle is outside and let it leak out into the air. R134a really isn't that bad. old school freon (R12) was the refrigerant that was dangerous to do that on, both for the environment and to humans, but that hasn't been used in cars in a few decades. i'm not saying i would hang around and huff on the R134a fumes, but just let it leak out and go get a beer while it is draining and then you are all set.
the bolt behind the dipstick with the plastic cap and hose clamp on it. how did you get that plastic piece off? mine just spins in place.
My question is, the bolt you had a hard time finding, with the clip that holds the hose, is that the screw by the transmission dipstick? Ive a 2000 durango that I need to replace the heater core on and cant find the one in the middle. Thanks.
That is behind the tranny fluid dipstick, but the second one is even further down behind the dipstick.
@@michaelhoffman6417 hey I know it's been a long time since you posted this but I'm doing this project right now on my 2000 Durango. How do I access the bolt and nut all the way down behind the tranny dipstick? I can't get a socket on it due to the lack of space between the dipsick and the threads. Does the dipstick tube come out first?
@@koryzap7339 I probably just used a normal wrench.
I do have one question where is there blower motor resistor at? I have been working on my 99 slt durango and I cant not find where its at. Everyone says its on the fire wall under the glove box but there isn't anything there.
Wish you would've shown how the dash comes out
Sorry, but didn't think to make the video until I already had it out. But the dash is pretty straight forward. Just make sure to disconnect all the grounding wires and electrical wires. Then you pretty much just unscrew everything. You're gonna have to drop down the steering column too.
Here a good video. It's fast forwarded but you'll see everything you gotta do. Durango Heater Core
Michael Hoffman No worries, I'm swapping out my grey interior with black R/T interior so I just needed to get the dash "skin" out, not the entire thing. I got it out though, thanks anyways!
I thought of a time-saving shortcut. Pull the engine and cut a hole through the firewall and another through the heater core housing. Once done glue/tape the housing 'access panel' back on then rivet the chunk of firewall back in. Or replace it with a slightly larger piece of sheet metal, sealing it good to prevent leaks.
hey thanks for the video! ! how the heck did you get the bolt out from behind the tranng dip stick??? I can barely get my hands in there.
caraudio1014 just gotta muscle it off to the side I guess. probably how I did it.
Michael Hoffman the nut is right behind a little bracket and that's behind the valve cover. just seem to be stuck here lol its the last dam nut that needs to come off
and again thanks for your video it's helping me out a lot
You have to pull all this to change the blower motor right? Thanks
unfortunately yeah
+Michael Hoffman Yuck! Thanks
+Doug Smith Heater core, blower motor an A/C condenser are all inside the HVAC box
+Shawn German Thanks, bummer!
Hey where is the location of the little hose ur talking about on the video
The one I mention at 4:10? You don't really have to know where it is, just disconnect it from the nipple on the engine side, and it'll just come with when you pull the HVAC out.
@@michaelhoffman6417 on mine its broken at the nipple side and on the part where it comes out the fire wall n I couldn't find where that vacuum went and it wouldn't blow out the vents only blows out the defrost but I kept watching the video n saw it goes right under the heater hoses so tomorrow I'm going to run a line n c if it work but man your vid helped out a lot thanks bro if that vacuum ain't connected it only blows threw defrost or what
@@andrewgaza9764 I honestly don't know the mechanics of it all or what that hose does. But I'm glad it helped.
@@michaelhoffman6417 jus an update man that vacuum line is for the vents thanks for the video bro