You’re the boss! Good job! A lady at work has a newer Durango where the blower quit. But, the bolt broke on her tailgate lift motor, and the wires are all over the place because that lift motor is hanging. Shorted there, I’m thinking, after seeing your video.
I am some one who knows how, retired from making my living of over 40 years as a trouble shooter of electronic, mechanical, hydraulic, pneumatic, etc etc. Eric O. is an Excellent troubleshooter and repair man. He is a gem and his customers are lucky people.
When you pushed in a new fuse into the energized circuit- it brought back a bad memory of when I was troubleshooting a 30 amp circuit, pushed in a glass BUSS fuse, and it popped- shooting shards of phosphorus coated glass into my thumb. Fun having to dig that out.
I am in awe of your analytical abilities. So many people would have fixed the blower motor and left the customer coming back again with the same problem. Kudos to you sir!
Ya I probably would have just left it...blower works and no blown fuses....Fixed Right? NO There are other components the fuse distributes power to. Power dist diagram is priceless
Work from other shops is sweet! You don't have to deal directly with the customer, and you can get a lot of work coming in for something you are good at that other people can't do. It makes perfect sense and I did the same thing when I ran a computer shop. This is the same reason your Family Doc doesn't typically do your brain surgery. Everyone has there specialty.
@2:16, a guy I know, Eric O., would have done an amp draw test on the motor at this point before going any further given customer input that the motor blew a 30 amp fuse. Nice find at the end. Another outstanding SMA video production. Thumbs up.
Eric, you take the same road I do when it comes to electrical diagnostics. Wiring diagrams are invaluable to reliable diagnostics, but like you said in this video, they aren't infallible. (The diagrams) You either had a wonderful instructor in your basic electronics class or learned in the school of hard knocks. (I was blessed with a wonderful and patient instructor. You didn't leave his class without solid electrical skill.) Keep up the good work!
Great video Eric . It seems to me many shops probably try to skip the steps to eliminate wiring problems because it takes more time. My experience with repair shops is they just want to rush repairs. You do a great job and no wonder you are successful.
unless I missed it I sure would like to see the site for the diagram you used for the diagnoses. by the way you are far more then the average home mechanic. I am and learn from every video.
This time I paused, and read the diagram and followed along this simpler case. It's so useful to see how a fuse blows in an instant and if you don't have a plan and a circuit diagram it's impossible to find the issue. Maybe adding a reliable meter that uses affordable fuses to the SMA store will be greatly appreciated. Awesome video!
I love this video. The shop you got this job from sounds exactly like my years of experience in vehicke maintenance. Im here watching because I have finally found someone with knowledge and the desire to show people how to be a real God blessing mechanic.
Loved the video looking forward to fixing that blower motor it’s 110° in the shade in Arizona LOL. I suspect it’s a loose wire because you’ve rolled out everything else. I’m a disabled vet and the fix looks like it something I should be able to do. Wish me luck brother!
Pretty sad she got hosed so bad for a 10 cent fuse. Good job Eric, we all wish there were more like you out there. Easy to repair when there is no body panels blocking your view.
Love it! I just diag'd a 06 Honda Ody blower motor and went through the exact same steps (turned out to be the transistor.) I was keeping up with you on this one, even ahead of you, until you said "maybe we should check the power distribution diagram." Dang it! I didn't think of that and might have missed it. I like to think I would have thought of it too but you mentioned it before I thought of it. Nice video! Thanks for bringing it to us. Sure appreciate what you do for us.
It always amazes me the state of some of the cars on US roads regarding rust when I've been over there. Here in the UK that vehicle would fail the MOT (State Inspection) as the test states "There must be no dangerous sharp edges or projections caused by corrosion or damage." That is besides any structural rust there may be. As always, another good video Eric.
Inspections, or lack there of, are at the state level in the US. We have the same no sharp edges rule in my state but some states don't even have a safety inspection at all.
In NY we run em till they are dead, at least many of us do. I've driven much worse than this. Body rust to me is not dangerous to me it's a vehicle all it needs to do is run. Only time I consider rust of being unsafe on a vehicle is if the frame, suspension components, or body mounts are rotted. Holes in the body don't mean nothing. Don't get hit then there are no worries.
Basic electrical troubleshooting 101. There's a lot of people out there that don't understand the basics, and don't understand how to do basic troubleshooting. Looks like that other shop that sent the Durango to you have guys working there that don't have or understand basic electrical troubleshooting skills. The wiring diagram is the key, and was for you to figure out the source of the problem, Eric. I'm a Chrysler dealer tech, and deal with this stuff all the time.This kind of skill is getting even more important these days, as there's more electrical in these cars than in the past, along with the electric vehicles that are on the market . The schools need to step up with the electrical training more than ever. Also, "fuses don't wear out"? They do, but not like mechanical devices do. They'll get brittle with age and thermal cycling. I've seen that myself.
Tabarnac hahaha .. je gagne ma vie en tant que mécanicien depuis plus de 15 ans et encore aujourd'hui je n'arrive toujours pas à comprendre comment certains garages de mécanique parviennent à gardés leurs portes ouvertes ... ... des pièces changées et chargées inutilement au grands frais du client mécontent qui ne reviendra probablement jamais... :( ... calis 3 mini fuse et une demie heure donc 1h labor + 3 fuse .. merci beaucoup en espérant que vous êtes satisfait cher client ... ... ... Keep that good work going Éric you really own it and..u do it with ease ... beautiful Regards Mathieu .. Montréal, PQ
I had in my Impala my blower motor would keep blowing itself out. By chance when looking at fuse I saw deep burn marks on one side of fuse. Put new fuse in and it would do it again. Noticed also fuse felt loose while in panel. I bent each terminal of fuse to tighten fuse in panel and for two years now problem never returned. Fuse was just not tight enough to make a good contact.
Wow, if this is representative of your competition, you should be able to raise your prices easily!! You're a top-tier diagnostician without a doubt. P.S. hope you like the CRC Red "Good Stuff" :-)
I'm glad you kept digging Eric, but if you noticed, the fuse panel sticker said that fuse 7 controlled more than just the frt blower.( 6:30) However, rear defogger was incorrect, rear wiper/washer was correct! That's why I too love me some wiring diagrams! Way to make them eat some humble pie. LOL
What I use to find intermittent shorts and overloads on aircraft (and cars, trailers, whatever) is a 100 Watt 12 Volt Landing Light (or 250 Watt X 28 Volt) to put in place of the fuse (or open circuit breaker). The light will draw about 8 - 10 amps and cannot pass enough current to damage a 10 amp or higher circuit. Under very light loads, the filament will not even glow, heavier load and it will dimly light and the circuit should operate at lower voltage, but in the case of a severe overload or short, it will glow brightly and NOT overload the wiring. You can then manipulate the "shorted" wiring to find the cause of the short while watching the light. This is especially handy for landing gear control circuits that have several switches in both parallel and series, to narrow down exactly where the problem is encountered in the gear sequencing. Due to all the movement and slipstream of air in flight at 120 - 150 MPH, it is not uncommon to have chaffed wire in the gear circuits, especially on microswitches that move with the components to sense gear lock positions. A High Current Test Light, Scope on a rope 10.5? It is sort of like your Headlight Bulb that you use to test current carrying ability, but try it in place of the fuse. It saves a lot of fuses and re-sets every time.
Nice catch. Amazing what you can do when you actually know how to read a wiring diagram. The reason that the Snap-On meter can get away with using a cheap blade fuse (and having it exposed on the back for easy replacement) is that it is only intended for automotive service use. It almost certainly doesn't have a Cat III or Cat IV safety rating as required for meters used on AC power systems. A decent general use multimeter needs fuses that can safely clear a fault under far more severe conditions than you will ever see working on cars. Like an idiot who leaves the meter in an amps range, then goes probing in a 480V electrical panel. Those pricey fuses are so-called HRC or High Rupture Capacity types, which will open the circuit without physically exploding even with peak fault currents in the tens of thousands of amps. Yes, they are expensive, and often a pain in the butt to get. But if you work on mains voltage AC wiring, you definitely don't want to go cheap on the primary safety device in your meter.
You are correct on that leaving on amps then using on volts with my fluke 87. I know if you change it to volts with out changing lead position back it does a clicking sound. problem for me began when I lost some hearing and missed that warning. New hearing aids last year and i can hear all the beeps and clicks again! Cheap meters on 480 don't make it and as you say don't meet safety standards.
tell me about it i saw a fellow student try that with 480 and he had to go change his underwear cus his meter exploded lol note to students dont replace those hrc fuses with normal ones lol also dont use amprobe meters that are old cus they allow you to swap in any old glass fuse for the expensive ones lol
Yes, Gold star for Bob Weiss! I might add that I'm pretty sure that in some other countries they call HRC fuses 'HBC' fuses... for High Breakage Capacity... but they equate to the identical song/dance. Brymen meters call them that for sure. They're packed full of sand to quickly 'quench' high voltage arc over... and as Bob says serve little if any practical need for low voltage automotive use. Always wondered why Fluke used them in the old (pre electric vehicle) 88 automotive meter. Those HRC's were, and still are a PITA to find sometimes. Believe it or not, I read where a lot of them on eBay now are counterfeits!
Cheapest at RockAuto is A1 Cardone, $106.79 + S&H or a chance junkyard for that rear wiper motor. Your NAPA in Bath says to call first, $106.19. Your Advance in Bath has A1 Cardone $78.79. Maybe a few squirts of De-Oxit and massaging?
Wow! Great fix! I'm glad it wasn't as simple as just a blown fuse, technically. But I will say, this was minor enough problem that the other garage should have been able to figure out without throwing the parts BOMB (in this case) at it. Seems like they had enough time involved in it. Maybe they over thought it or frazzled with other jobs.... which happens. Now you say @17:43 that fuses don't go bad. True, BUT I have seen them in a way go bad. The tangs get a coating of oxidation on some and this coating keeps the circuit from being completed. It is rare, but I have seen it at least twice in my work experience. The fix was to use a wire brush or sand paper piece to polish up the tangs again. Both times, it was the passenger compartment box too, which was even more surprising being that it even more protected from the elements. Just throwing that out there... as it shouldn't be overlooked. Fuse may look good & be intact, but still inhibit current flow.
The total cost of the replacement parts plus labour will easily exceeded the value of the ute if appearances are anything to go by !!!. Another simple fix if people used a systematic approach. Great work as usual Eric. 👍👍
At the end of the day other shops are your customers too at that point.. it would be counter productive, detrimental to yon even, to embarrass them.. nice work... as usual!
A trick I use is to find the biggest, oldest, nastiest, "current hungry" 12V headlight, spotlight, or off-road light, etc. that pulls about 10A. (120W) Solder leads onto a blown fuse, plug it in there, and you have yourself a 10A current limiting device. On a lightly loaded circuit like you were testing, it will pass enough current to operate, but the minute you introduce your "short" or heavy load, it will light brightly, saving you blowing fuses. It also gets your attention to tell you you found your problem. You can have several heavy-load lamps for different current settings, but you just can't usually find anything heavy enough for say, 30A circuits...
Hi mr. O. Big fan here of you. I was wondering if you'll make a video about basic electrical troubleshooting or basic guide on how to read a wiring diagram.
I can think of a few reasons why the other shop gave up, but it really never ceases to amaze me that you get work like this where you didn't even need the Verus or a scan tool. Why did they wire a switch when the OE switch worked? Why couldn't they figure out that the 15 amp fuse fed more than just the blower??
On fuse wearing out. Had a 3 amp control fuse in one of two furnaces of the same age (18 years). One failed the the other failed a year later. In both cases replacing the fuse fixed the problem. I suspect since the current rating was so low the fuse material oxidized over the years and the load was a little too close to the rating. I did not measure the current but should have. Normally wire fuses should be rated 20% above the load unless the load is inductive.
I've had similar experience in the Air Force working on flightline equipment. The fuse looked good but tested bad and replacing the fuse fixed the problem.
Small thin fuse elements move back and forth as power is applied then removed. After time they break or get thin then burn. Most car fuses are big enough you don’t get that
Yes, fuses definitely CAN "just wear out". Thermal cycling does it, as well as circuits where large pulses of current are drawn on an infrequent basis. The fuse element starts to crystallize and crack, and can go open or high resistance while looking fine on visual inspection.
This is a phenomenon usually found in AC mains fuses and fast-blow fuses of low amperage. Vibration and thermal cycling both cause premature failure. Automotive fuses are usually much more conservatively sized, meaning the wires and fuse are all sized to handle at least 50% more current than required by the load on a new car. This means that they're physically robust enough to endure vibration and thermal cycling found in their use. In other words, sure it happens, but it's extremely rare in the automotive environment.
Hmmm I wonder if this is the issue in my 01 Durango. Very similar issue. I am going to have to investigate mine now. Thanks for the video, you may have shown me the shortcut to the solution lol
smoke and a pancake,lol,you hear that a lot in mechanic circles........ha ha ha,this is comedy gold,plus top notch auto repair videos,whats not to love about SMA.
Thanks for the video, I guess the shop in the customer or more focused on the blower not working and didn't realize the wiper wasn't working either. If they would have started at the back of the vehicle and started firing Parts Cannon it would have been fixed.
You said it smelled like "cigoweed" so it should be "bong and a blintz" instead of "smoke and a pancake"..lol. Great video. keep them coming my friend. Regards to you and the family...
I used to take in work from other shops on occasion. I always gave the other shops a break because you never know when you might need a favor. I also reprogrammed modules for free if they bought them from my parts department.
It always a good idea to check the power distribution page for all circuits involved in that fuse. The box cover doesn’t always show everything involved with that fuse. I got called in for a Pontiac with a hard / no start when cold,it turn out to be a Blown AC fuse. That same fuse fed the BCM IGN2 circuit but not listed on the cover. The problem was a shorted AC clutch
good video eric i have gremlins like this in my truck too. funny its a dodge as well. also funny the side mirror defoger circuit in mine was blowing fuses.
Now now let's not talk trash on "other shops" . All money is green doesnt matter who gives it up. Dont ask just fix it is a great perspective. Keep on keepin on eric. Not that you didn't know allready. Haa
Great Video! Key words, " What else is on the circuit?" I used to hate it when the aftermarket people tied in their "stuff" to a fused circuit, instead of fusing it with a separate fuse. Another thing was using a 20 Amp fuse for their "stuff", on a vehicle circuit fused with a 10 AMP FUSE! Gee, which one blew first?
This right here is a prime example of why I'm never in a hurry to call the customer and say, "Come n git 'er -she's fixed!" Nothing is ever that simple, at least around here (or they'd have fixed it themselves). I go on long test drives, even if I know I've got a billion things going on and I need to get back fast. 9 times out of 10 I'll find additional problems, additional unrelated problems, or find I didn't actually fix the problem when I thought I had. Good practice to be suspicious when things are too easy! 👍 Love the front fender on that gemstone! 😂
Smoke in a pancake! Haha. Reminds me of Austin power gold-member stupid movie but just made me laugh and remember that movie when you said that!! 👍🏻 Sometimes you just have to love the simple diags makes up for the more difficult ones and makes for a nice day!
With all due respect to the other shop Eric, I still can't believe they didn't look at a wiring diagram to see what else that fuse was linked to. Pretty basic. But maybe because I'm so used to how you do things, it just seems basic to me... AS soon as you showed that those other items were depending on the power from that circuit, I pretty much knew there was going to be some fireworks when you turned one of them on. Another good one. Of course. Thanks Eric
Keeping the viewers in tow with a link to the wiring diagrams is a positive improvement. Normally we get a quick flash and that's it. First in RUclips land.🌋🏜🏝🏞🏗🌐🗺🏠⛺🏥🌃🎠🌄🚂🚅🚜🚒🚔🛣🚐
I'm in a 2003 Dakota 4.7 4x4..same thing..two days ago started blowing resistors.original fan when carefully removed doesn't turn freely, but works poorly.....The connector on harness to resistor burned right two terminals, as heat melted them...It all began when i repeatedly started /turned off engine a few times..Then replaced resistor again, it lasted three blocks driving this time. No blown fuses.. Trying to understand which relay is involved under hood or left of dash,however....Tonight replacing motor,resistor, and harness.Hope it doesn't smoke itself the instant i turn the fan control.Have been in habit of leaving fan where set (on) when turning truck off...soon as turned engine on poof!....I sure hope the 16-year-old fan is /was drawing to much,etc...I removed fuses to cigarette lighter ....Great video.....!! my compliments...
One of the things I always remember from my old tech co-workers was, "fuses don't commit suicide, they are murdered!".
I realize I am kinda randomly asking but does anybody know a good website to watch newly released tv shows online?
@Van Theodore Flixportal :D
@Esteban Arthur Thanks, signed up and it seems like a nice service :D I really appreciate it!
@Van Theodore You are welcome :D
You’re the boss! Good job!
A lady at work has a newer Durango where the blower quit. But, the bolt broke on her tailgate lift motor, and the wires are all over the place because that lift motor is hanging. Shorted there, I’m thinking, after seeing your video.
I am some one who knows how, retired from making my living of over 40 years as a trouble shooter of electronic, mechanical, hydraulic, pneumatic, etc etc.
Eric O. is an Excellent troubleshooter and repair man. He is a gem and his customers are lucky people.
I watch your videos more to hear your comments, than to actually learn about car repair. You never disappoint brother. Keep up the great content!
I appreciate that!
When local shops fire up the parts cannon, can you hear it from your garage?
so many people are baffled by wiring.
a good head on your shoulders and the correct info goes a long way..
When you pushed in a new fuse into the energized circuit- it brought back a bad memory of when I was troubleshooting a 30 amp circuit, pushed in a glass BUSS fuse, and it popped- shooting shards of phosphorus coated glass into my thumb. Fun having to dig that out.
No balls no glory!
Eric O the problem solving humble mechanic
I am in awe of your analytical abilities. So many people would have fixed the blower motor and left the customer coming back again with the same problem. Kudos to you sir!
Ya I probably would have just left it...blower works and no blown fuses....Fixed Right? NO There are other components the fuse distributes power to. Power dist diagram is priceless
I like your approach to the problem, Troubleshooting and understanding of electricity wich hardly anyone nowadays understands; Congratulations!
the basics, it always come back to the basics. love this chan! i feel the same way bout the broken car.
Work from other shops is sweet! You don't have to deal directly with the customer, and you can get a lot of work coming in for something you are good at that other people can't do. It makes perfect sense and I did the same thing when I ran a computer shop. This is the same reason your Family Doc doesn't typically do your brain surgery. Everyone has there specialty.
@2:16, a guy I know, Eric O., would have done an amp draw test on the motor at this point before going any further given customer input that the motor blew a 30 amp fuse. Nice find at the end. Another outstanding SMA video production. Thumbs up.
Another great SMA video you show the steps you take to fix the problem thank you for sharing you time and experience in this type of repairers
Always start with the basics! Great eletrical diagnosis Eric as always. If it is an electrical circuit, I always check fuses & relays first.
I agree. AFTER You know what ones to check though!
Eric, you take the same road I do when it comes to electrical diagnostics. Wiring diagrams are invaluable to reliable diagnostics, but like you said in this video, they aren't infallible. (The diagrams) You either had a wonderful instructor in your basic electronics class or learned in the school of hard knocks. (I was blessed with a wonderful and patient instructor. You didn't leave his class without solid electrical skill.) Keep up the good work!
Never went to school so I learned the hard way :)
Great video Eric . It seems to me many shops probably try to skip the steps to eliminate wiring problems because it takes more time. My experience with repair shops is they just want to rush repairs. You do a great job and no wonder you are successful.
Ed Holland and you have to wonder do they wear slip on boots or lace up cause them thar strings are hard
He doesnt want call backs thats why.
witch not a bad thing
Eric who needs a blower motor just open the vents and let the air blow thru from under all the fender rot
I had a Mercedes like that, vent hole was next to my left foot.
The blower motor with the jumper john scared me too Eric :-) Happy Spring.
Nice troubleshooting video. Fine example the approach method, tools and progression. At 11:40 Eric is in sage mode.
unless I missed it I sure would like to see the site for the diagram you used for the diagnoses. by the way you are far more then the average home mechanic. I am and learn from every video.
This time I paused, and read the diagram and followed along this simpler case. It's so useful to see how a fuse blows in an instant and if you don't have a plan and a circuit diagram it's impossible to find the issue. Maybe adding a reliable meter that uses affordable fuses to the SMA store will be greatly appreciated. Awesome video!
Straight forward and logical approach, Another great demonstration Eric, Thank you!
Same problem with my neighbor across the street. I sent him the link to the video!! As always Eric, great video!!
I learn a little more with each video. thank you eric.
Nice job showing all components that are on the control side of the circuit. Hooray for power distribution diagrams
I love this video. The shop you got this job from sounds exactly like my years of experience in vehicke maintenance. Im here watching because I have finally found someone with knowledge and the desire to show people how to be a real God blessing mechanic.
Loved the video looking forward to fixing that blower motor it’s 110° in the shade in Arizona LOL. I suspect it’s a loose wire because you’ve rolled out everything else. I’m a disabled vet and the fix looks like it something I should be able to do. Wish me luck brother!
Posting the wiring diagrams is a sweet idea 👍🏼. Thanks!
Pretty sad she got hosed so bad for a 10 cent fuse. Good job Eric, we all wish there were more like you out there. Easy to repair when there is no body panels blocking your view.
My Wife and baby are still sleeping; I can’t wait to pour a cup of coffee and watch a new SMA video!
Fix is a fix someone have to pay your time you are a really good mechanic nice job eric
its never as simple as you started out. been bit once too many always check the entire circuits folks!!!! actually a good video proving that!!!
Love it! I just diag'd a 06 Honda Ody blower motor and went through the exact same steps (turned out to be the transistor.) I was keeping up with you on this one, even ahead of you, until you said "maybe we should check the power distribution diagram." Dang it! I didn't think of that and might have missed it. I like to think I would have thought of it too but you mentioned it before I thought of it. Nice video! Thanks for bringing it to us. Sure appreciate what you do for us.
Good diagnostic skills to find that source of the reason for the blown fuse.
It always amazes me the state of some of the cars on US roads regarding rust when I've been over there. Here in the UK that vehicle would fail the MOT (State Inspection) as the test states "There must be no dangerous sharp edges or projections caused by corrosion or damage." That is besides any structural rust there may be. As always, another good video Eric.
What if it was 'fixed' with duct tape? Would it then pass inspection?? Asking for a friend.
Inspections, or lack there of, are at the state level in the US. We have the same no sharp edges rule in my state but some states don't even have a safety inspection at all.
In NY we run em till they are dead, at least many of us do. I've driven much worse than this. Body rust to me is not dangerous to me it's a vehicle all it needs to do is run. Only time I consider rust of being unsafe on a vehicle is if the frame, suspension components, or body mounts are rotted. Holes in the body don't mean nothing. Don't get hit then there are no worries.
Loved this video. Man , you're doing the" Work" . That SUV needed a few body parts to call it an automobile. Great find on the rear wiper motor.
Look at the wonderful rusted away body parts. When I lived in minnesota the term rusted to the door handles was not to unusual.
Nice of them to make sure it was all tore apart and in shambles... I hope u made some easy good money on this one Eric. Nice video as usual...👍👍👍
Love your videos working on a Dodge Durango same year tomorrow and you helped me out a lot
Your a great teacher. If you ever wanna go broke become a Voc Inst.
Eric O. and your common sense electrical troubleshooting! Nice work!
Great example of cause and effect Eric, also reading wiring diagrams. Thanks for sharing. Steve. 👍
This blower setup just arrived at my shop. It appears the blower motor needs to be replaced. This is another engineering marvel.
Taking the extra step was key in this diagnostics. Great job, that had to feel good. .
Eric o. Good fast and fixed eric that old dodge looks like it's almost ready for the crusher
Basic electrical troubleshooting 101. There's a lot of people out there that don't understand the basics, and don't understand how to do basic troubleshooting. Looks like that other shop that sent the Durango to you have guys working there that don't have or understand basic electrical troubleshooting skills. The wiring diagram is the key, and was for you to figure out the source of the problem, Eric. I'm a Chrysler dealer tech, and deal with this stuff all the time.This kind of skill is getting even more important these days, as there's more electrical in these cars than in the past, along with the electric vehicles that are on the market . The schools need to step up with the electrical training more than ever. Also, "fuses don't wear out"? They do, but not like mechanical devices do. They'll get brittle with age and thermal cycling. I've seen that myself.
Another great video, appreciate the step by step and the back flips you do working around that camera.. Thanks Teach.
Tabarnac hahaha .. je gagne ma vie en tant que mécanicien depuis plus de 15 ans et encore aujourd'hui je n'arrive toujours pas à comprendre comment certains garages de mécanique parviennent à gardés leurs portes ouvertes ... ... des pièces changées et chargées inutilement au grands frais du client mécontent qui ne reviendra probablement jamais... :( ... calis 3 mini fuse et une demie heure donc 1h labor + 3 fuse .. merci beaucoup en espérant que vous êtes satisfait cher client ... ... ...
Keep that good work going Éric you really own it and..u do it with ease ... beautiful
Regards
Mathieu ..
Montréal, PQ
Great video and full explanation.
Where can I get a copy of the wiring diagram and what model is volt meter?
Luis
You get em alright. been watching you for some time now you are brill.
I had in my Impala my blower motor would keep blowing itself out. By chance when looking at fuse I saw deep burn marks on one side of fuse. Put new fuse in and it would do it again. Noticed also fuse felt loose while in panel. I bent each terminal of fuse to tighten fuse in panel and for two years now problem never returned. Fuse was just not tight enough to make a good contact.
Wow, if this is representative of your competition, you should be able to raise your prices easily!! You're a top-tier diagnostician without a doubt. P.S. hope you like the CRC Red "Good Stuff" :-)
I am already one of the highest at $70. People do not care about quality and accuracy of repair. they care about price.
I'm glad you kept digging Eric, but if you noticed, the fuse panel sticker said that fuse 7 controlled more than just the frt blower.( 6:30) However, rear defogger was incorrect, rear wiper/washer was correct! That's why I too love me some wiring diagrams! Way to make them eat some humble pie. LOL
I love your videos...so entertaining...and lots of twists and turns ...and always suprised at the outcome....
Gotta take the Win and go fix Mrs Os timing belt!
Well you made that look easy, the wiring Diagram, was key again, well done
What I use to find intermittent shorts and overloads on aircraft (and cars, trailers, whatever) is a 100 Watt 12 Volt Landing Light (or 250 Watt X 28 Volt) to put in place of the fuse (or open circuit breaker). The light will draw about 8 - 10 amps and cannot pass enough current to damage a 10 amp or higher circuit. Under very light loads, the filament will not even glow, heavier load and it will dimly light and the circuit should operate at lower voltage, but in the case of a severe overload or short, it will glow brightly and NOT overload the wiring. You can then manipulate the "shorted" wiring to find the cause of the short while watching the light. This is especially handy for landing gear control circuits that have several switches in both parallel and series, to narrow down exactly where the problem is encountered in the gear sequencing. Due to all the movement and slipstream of air in flight at 120 - 150 MPH, it is not uncommon to have chaffed wire in the gear circuits, especially on microswitches that move with the components to sense gear lock positions. A High Current Test Light, Scope on a rope 10.5? It is sort of like your Headlight Bulb that you use to test current carrying ability, but try it in place of the fuse. It saves a lot of fuses and re-sets every time.
Wow ain't much left of that front driver Fender Eric O and there worried about the blower motor 🤣@0:19 @SouthMainAutoRepairLLC
Nice catch. Amazing what you can do when you actually know how to read a wiring diagram.
The reason that the Snap-On meter can get away with using a cheap blade fuse (and having it exposed on the back for easy replacement) is that it is only intended for automotive service use. It almost certainly doesn't have a Cat III or Cat IV safety rating as required for meters used on AC power systems. A decent general use multimeter needs fuses that can safely clear a fault under far more severe conditions than you will ever see working on cars. Like an idiot who leaves the meter in an amps range, then goes probing in a 480V electrical panel. Those pricey fuses are so-called HRC or High Rupture Capacity types, which will open the circuit without physically exploding even with peak fault currents in the tens of thousands of amps.
Yes, they are expensive, and often a pain in the butt to get. But if you work on mains voltage AC wiring, you definitely don't want to go cheap on the primary safety device in your meter.
You are correct on that leaving on amps then using on volts with my fluke 87. I know if you change it to volts with out changing lead position back it does a clicking sound. problem for me began when I lost some hearing and missed that warning. New hearing aids last year and i can hear all the beeps and clicks again! Cheap meters on 480 don't make it and as you say don't meet safety standards.
tell me about it i saw a fellow student try that with 480 and he had to go change his underwear cus his meter exploded lol note to students dont replace those hrc fuses with normal ones lol also dont use amprobe meters that are old cus they allow you to swap in any old glass fuse for the expensive ones lol
Yes, Gold star for Bob Weiss! I might add that I'm pretty sure that in some other countries they call HRC fuses 'HBC' fuses... for High Breakage Capacity... but they equate to the identical song/dance. Brymen meters call them that for sure. They're packed full of sand to quickly 'quench' high voltage arc over... and as Bob says serve little if any practical need for low voltage automotive use. Always wondered why Fluke used them in the old (pre electric vehicle) 88 automotive meter. Those HRC's were, and still are a PITA to find sometimes. Believe it or not, I read where a lot of them on eBay now are counterfeits!
Cheapest at RockAuto is A1 Cardone, $106.79 + S&H or a chance junkyard for that rear wiper motor. Your NAPA in Bath says to call first, $106.19. Your Advance in Bath has A1 Cardone $78.79. Maybe a few squirts of De-Oxit and massaging?
Wow! Great fix! I'm glad it wasn't as simple as just a blown fuse, technically. But I will say, this was minor enough problem that the other garage should have been able to figure out without throwing the parts BOMB (in this case) at it. Seems like they had enough time involved in it. Maybe they over thought it or frazzled with other jobs.... which happens.
Now you say @17:43 that fuses don't go bad. True, BUT I have seen them in a way go bad. The tangs get a coating of oxidation on some and this coating keeps the circuit from being completed. It is rare, but I have seen it at least twice in my work experience. The fix was to use a wire brush or sand paper piece to polish up the tangs again. Both times, it was the passenger compartment box too, which was even more surprising being that it even more protected from the elements.
Just throwing that out there... as it shouldn't be overlooked. Fuse may look good & be intact, but still inhibit current flow.
The total cost of the replacement parts plus labour will easily exceeded the value of the ute if appearances are anything to go by !!!. Another simple fix if people used a systematic approach. Great work as usual Eric. 👍👍
Great job as always Eric. Great to meet you yesterday at TST.
Who needs a blower motor with that nice fresh air vent installed in the front fenders?
You're always thinking, great work!
Nice job Eric O keep them coming enjoyed the video
At the end of the day other shops are your customers too at that point.. it would be counter productive, detrimental to yon even, to embarrass them.. nice work... as usual!
... a thanks for the video... tracing electric problems has ALWAYS been a pain in the arse for me... & that will NEVER change ;)
Great informational video. I learned a lot. Just hate RUclips ads. Lol
A trick I use is to find the biggest, oldest, nastiest, "current hungry" 12V headlight, spotlight, or off-road light, etc. that pulls about 10A. (120W) Solder leads onto a blown fuse, plug it in there, and you have yourself a 10A current limiting device. On a lightly loaded circuit like you were testing, it will pass enough current to operate, but the minute you introduce your "short" or heavy load, it will light brightly, saving you blowing fuses. It also gets your attention to tell you you found your problem. You can have several heavy-load lamps for different current settings, but you just can't usually find anything heavy enough for say, 30A circuits...
haywire17 Seems to me like a very handy piece of kit and a great HRC fuse saver as well as indicating a short. Certainly will copy.
Just wanted to say your hat matches that front driver side panel. Now to watch the video.
Hi mr. O. Big fan here of you. I was wondering if you'll make a video about basic electrical troubleshooting or basic guide on how to read a wiring diagram.
rust buckets need love too....nice job with prooving that fuses dont go bad
I can think of a few reasons why the other shop gave up, but it really never ceases to amaze me that you get work like this where you didn't even need the Verus or a scan tool. Why did they wire a switch when the OE switch worked? Why couldn't they figure out that the 15 amp fuse fed more than just the blower??
Dunno man, I don't ask questions, I just fix cars haha
Eric, you are a real pro! How many mechanics would have just replaced the fuse and shipped it?
Nice job with the wiring diagram!
On fuse wearing out. Had a 3 amp control fuse in one of two furnaces of the same age (18 years). One failed the the other failed a year later. In both cases replacing the fuse fixed the problem. I suspect since the current rating was so low the fuse material oxidized over the years and the load was a little too close to the rating. I did not measure the current but should have. Normally wire fuses should be rated 20% above the load unless the load is inductive.
I've had similar experience in the Air Force working on flightline equipment. The fuse looked good but tested bad and replacing the fuse fixed the problem.
Small thin fuse elements move back and forth as power is applied then removed. After time they break or get thin then burn. Most car fuses are big enough you don’t get that
Yes, fuses definitely CAN "just wear out". Thermal cycling does it, as well as circuits where large pulses of current are drawn on an infrequent basis. The fuse element starts to crystallize and crack, and can go open or high resistance while looking fine on visual inspection.
This is a phenomenon usually found in AC mains fuses and fast-blow fuses of low amperage. Vibration and thermal cycling both cause premature failure.
Automotive fuses are usually much more conservatively sized, meaning the wires and fuse are all sized to handle at least 50% more current than required by the load on a new car. This means that they're physically robust enough to endure vibration and thermal cycling found in their use.
In other words, sure it happens, but it's extremely rare in the automotive environment.
Man.. Love the test light Eric!.
Remind me of my RC Cars day.
And basic
O.k. back to your video.
Hmmm I wonder if this is the issue in my 01 Durango. Very similar issue. I am going to have to investigate mine now. Thanks for the video, you may have shown me the shortcut to the solution lol
smoke and a pancake,lol,you hear that a lot in mechanic circles........ha ha ha,this is comedy gold,plus top notch auto repair videos,whats not to love about SMA.
Thanks for the video, I guess the shop in the customer or more focused on the blower not working and didn't realize the wiper wasn't working either. If they would have started at the back of the vehicle and started firing Parts Cannon it would have been fixed.
You said it smelled like "cigoweed" so it should be "bong and a blintz" instead of "smoke and a pancake"..lol. Great video. keep them coming my friend. Regards to you and the family...
Gooooollllldddddd
snake skin thats funny SH*t right there!
The diagnosis part was great. Judging from the condition of the vehicle it needs an appointment with the crusher,
I used to take in work from other shops on occasion. I always gave the other shops a break because you never know when you might need a favor. I also reprogrammed modules for free if they bought them from my parts department.
It always a good idea to check the power distribution page for all circuits involved in that fuse. The box cover doesn’t always show everything involved with that fuse. I got called in for a Pontiac with a hard / no start when cold,it turn out to be a Blown AC fuse. That same fuse fed the BCM IGN2 circuit but not listed on the cover. The problem was a shorted AC clutch
Forgot the wiring diagram links in the description!
good video eric i have gremlins like this in my truck too. funny its a dodge as well. also funny the side mirror defoger circuit in mine was blowing fuses.
The 15 amp fuse is worth more money than that hoopty. Nice fix Mr. O and please provide a link to order a checkered steering wheel cover. Sweeeet!
Now now let's not talk trash on "other shops" . All money is green doesnt matter who gives it up. Dont ask just fix it is a great perspective. Keep on keepin on eric. Not that you didn't know allready. Haa
So you're suggesting the "Don't ask, don't tell" policy?
Excellent diagnosis Dr. Evil"O"
Thank you Eric. Really appreciate your videos. Good job.
Great Video! Key words, " What else is on the circuit?" I used to hate it when the aftermarket people tied in their "stuff" to a fused circuit, instead of fusing it with a separate fuse. Another thing was using a 20 Amp fuse for their "stuff", on a vehicle circuit fused with a 10 AMP FUSE! Gee, which one blew first?
Classic doctor o troubleshooting!
This right here is a prime example of why I'm never in a hurry to call the customer and say, "Come n git 'er -she's fixed!" Nothing is ever that simple, at least around here (or they'd have fixed it themselves). I go on long test drives, even if I know I've got a billion things going on and I need to get back fast. 9 times out of 10 I'll find additional problems, additional unrelated problems, or find I didn't actually fix the problem when I thought I had. Good practice to be suspicious when things are too easy! 👍
Love the front fender on that gemstone! 😂
Smoke in a pancake! Haha. Reminds me of Austin power gold-member stupid movie but just made me laugh and remember that movie when you said that!! 👍🏻 Sometimes you just have to love the simple diags makes up for the more difficult ones and makes for a nice day!
With all due respect to the other shop Eric, I still can't believe they didn't look at a wiring diagram to see what else that fuse was linked to. Pretty basic. But maybe because I'm so used to how you do things, it just seems basic to me... AS soon as you showed that those other items were depending on the power from that circuit, I pretty much knew there was going to be some fireworks when you turned one of them on. Another good one. Of course. Thanks Eric
What, you mean that other garage didn't replace the left front fender to see if that would get the blower motor to work. Lol.
Paul Wicklund now that was funny.....thanks for the laugh
Theres your problem lady!
Keeping the viewers in tow with a link to the wiring diagrams is a positive improvement. Normally we get a quick flash and that's it. First in RUclips land.🌋🏜🏝🏞🏗🌐🗺🏠⛺🏥🌃🎠🌄🚂🚅🚜🚒🚔🛣🚐
I'm in a 2003 Dakota 4.7 4x4..same thing..two days ago started blowing resistors.original fan when carefully removed doesn't turn freely, but works poorly.....The connector on harness to resistor burned right two terminals, as heat melted them...It all began when i repeatedly started /turned off engine a few times..Then replaced resistor again, it lasted three blocks driving this time. No blown fuses.. Trying to understand which relay is involved under hood or left of dash,however....Tonight replacing motor,resistor, and harness.Hope it doesn't smoke itself the instant i turn the fan control.Have been in habit of leaving fan where set (on) when turning truck off...soon as turned engine on poof!....I sure hope the 16-year-old fan is /was drawing to much,etc...I removed fuses to cigarette lighter ....Great video.....!! my compliments...
13:54 Eric you could be doing the voice over for a nature documentary with that voice 😂😂