EGO 56V Gen1 5AH Blinking Orange Fix
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- Опубликовано: 21 авг 2024
- In this video we take a look at a EGO 56V Gen1 5AH pack to see why it is blinking the Orange or Amber light. Its letting us know it has a temperature fault of some kind. At first it was looking like a bad BMS board. After checking the thermistors we later figure out it is only a bad connection at the middle temperature monitoring board. It ended up being a very easy fix and light turns steady green. Hope you find this video helpful and thanks for watching!
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I had to clean the connectors between the cells, and also did the one where the temp sensors connect to the BMS. Get some MG-801B with PPE and spray on before assembly of the connectors. it's supposed to keep the connection good long-term. Used in cell phone manufacture and in plenty of other things.
Thanks again for all of your videos, saved me a lot of trouble and time!
I found a quicker way...dropped it on the floor (carpeted) in frustration and it fixed it 🤣
That is much quicker! 🤣
I had this problem. After reading this comment, I tried the same solution, and yes, it worked. Just finished mowing the lawn. Thanks Athco Locks.
Look at you guys! 😂
Bruh…..this actually worked for me too lmao I just tried it now 😂😂😂
Read these comments, went out in garage and rapped the battery with a rubber mallet and it turned green!! Thank you!!!
My Ego 56v battery was flashing orange and I couldn’t get it to work. After watching your video I dropped my battery around 6” onto concrete. The battery is now working as it should, I suspect a bad contact as you described. Thank you!
Hhahaha thx, that fixed my battery
Awesome video, and based on the comment, tested the theory of a bad contact by dropping the battery onto my cement garage floor from a relatively low height of ~ 6". Dropped it so that the indicator light was facing the floor, since it seemed well protected. Then pressed the light and presto --> green :-). Thanks to the video author for a great well explained video, and also for the idea from the commentor!
As some of these other Neanderthal geniuses figured out, I went and dropped it not 1, 2, but 3 times from about 2.5 feet up on the last drop. With the button side taking the impact. It's green. Wild. Many thanks.
I thought they were full of it, so I tried it myself and it started working right away. Thanks to all that said they dropped it and it started working.
Yet another happy viewer, thanks a ton. By the time I had removed the top and bottom and front and back the light was back to green. No twisting or pushing would make it flash orange so I put it back together, if the problem returns I'll go deeper next time. Thanks again.
I just dropped mine on the concrete floor from about 2 feet,green light came on so I went and finished mowing with no problems thanks
I did the same thing!
Just remember this is temporary and soon after people started posting about dropping it and it working again viewers started posting about their connectors broken off the board. That only happens after repeated drops and getting harder and harder. The loose connection(s) will have to be found and corrected...
Figured I’d comment. Just had this happen to my battery. Dropped it from about half a foot on my carpet. Turned green. Seems like a loose connecter or so for me. Easy like and sub, keep doing good work!
Thank you so much. I have a Gen 1 battery 7 seasons in. It still does my entire lawn but was flashing. I took the top off to see if I could see any corrosion. I moved the cover and pressed the button. . . GREEN! :)
A loving tap on the carpet fixed it for me! Thanks for the video!
Ty for the video, I think I fixed mine by reseating/cleaning the connection that is between the 2 halves of the cell packs
I did the 13:30 part, where you separate the 2 halves, and reseat the connectors. (and clean some of the silicone off)
My original complaint was that the mower would randomly cut out while mowing. I think the battery would flash orange, and the mower might have flashed yellow. You would have to wait 10-30 seconds, and then it would be able to be restarted/used as normal
I did this "fix" (basically pull the 2 halves apart, pull the connector or two out, reseat them). I then mowed my lawn. The mower did not die. It also seemed to automatically kick into a "turbo" mode when about to bog down. I don't recall it doing that before the fix. So maybe the turbo boost is related; like, it draws more power, which overloads some loose connection or something, and causes a safety fault. I don't know; I'm not even 100% sure it's fixed, but it's been through 3 charges since, and no cutouts yet. Previously I think it would cutout once every 1-2 mows.
Thanks for your videos and the knowledge
Awesome, so glad it's performing better. Hopefully you have found the issue. Thanks for sharing and for your kind comment!
I have the identical problem so I'll go directly to the thermistors and check them. Thank you.
Thank for creating this video, I appreciate the effort you make to educate the rest of us. I did watch the whole thing and learned quite a lot. However, I tried the drop fix from the comments, and it seemed to work. Unfortunately, I thought it was the mower, and think I f**'d it up, before finding this video. So, I already bought another EGO mower, with the newer, bigger battery. I will attempt your repair on the old battery, if it acts up again. Reply back, if you have, or know of a video to properly disassemble/ fix the old Gen 1 mower. I'd like to salvage it.
Since we did find the issue to be a loose connection as shown, of course bumping it might help and it seems to be atleast an quick fix for some, but as you mentioned it might come back and now you know how to properly fix it if it does and that is awesome. Thanks for your comment it means a lot that you took time to comment that it had value even though bumping it might get it to work. The goal of the video was learning together and it seems to falls flat sometimes.
As far as the mower I do have a trouble shooting video on it and then later a video replacing the controller with a cheaper one since the controller is epoxy potted and not much we can do with it. I would recommend other controllers today and find one with softstart if at all possible if not you need to start mower and them turn pot up slow just so start up current is not too high.
I am using a tiny controller right now, But it is on the verge of undersized and I hate that, but it's so convenient since it has softstart and undervoltage protection but in. I may do a video on it, but it's too early to recommend. If you like tinkering around and learning let me know and I will be glad to share the link with you, but I can't truly recommend it for sure yet. Also if you run high lift blades, I would not use it. It is too much added load to the struggling controller.
It is so easy and I contacted the company about making a controller just a little bit bigger and they said they would consider it, but they mainly market it to kids ride on toys etc.
Here is the troubleshooting video of the mower and the replacement video should be after. Best of luck to ya!
ruclips.net/video/TnxMegiCu_Y/видео.html
oh man I needed this. I have one of these 5aH batteries that does this, which Ego replaced with no questions asked other than purchase date. So I might end up with basically a free battery!
Another vote for the battery drop here. Was pissed because it was a gift and i dont have the receipt. Drop worked and the overheat issue went away for now
I tapped on the battery three times with a leather hammer and that fixed it😮😀
Glad you got it! 👍
😂🔨
you'll probably have to take it apart and clean the contacts eventually.
Yes, and eventually solder the balance leads. All the newer packs starting with some of the Gen2 and all the Gen3 I believe are all soldered so not such an issue over time.
Thanks everyone! I tapped my battery pack 3 times with a rubber mallet and the light turned green. Works great!
Worked for me. Not quite sure which connector it was, but reseating several seems to have resolved the flashing orange light. Thanks for the tips!
All I had to do was remove the top, end cap. I have the 7.5ah battery and when I finally got the end cap to loosen and come off, I noticed I had less room to move the cap before I stressed the wires. I guess I did enough movement of the wires to affect the connectors because the battery indicator was green rather than the blinking orange. Thank you!
Cheers mate. This lead me to a solution and saved me a ton if cash, love your work. Subscribed!
Thanks for the hard work put into this video, but this definitely isn't an 'easy' fix, as some commenters have said. Easier thing to try? The following worked for me, with my 1st gen 7.5ah battery: unplugging the charging unit for about 5 minutes and then plugging it back in, then charging the battery. It works each time I do it, but I have to do it before each charge now. It turns out that my charger was on its way out and somehow screwed up the status detection in one of my two batteries, so I had to order a new charger and am looking forwarding to this 'flashing orange' issue being no more. It was the charger, not the battery!
Holding down the battery button for 12 seconds worked for me.
Never seen that work for orange light. Thanks for sharing!
This video saved my battery! Thank you
So glad it helped! Thanks for your comment!
Who else watched for less than a minute before checking the comments and slam dunking this thing onto the ground
At least I get 1 minute watch time I guess!🤣
I had a similar poor connection on a LM2130E-SP mower control board ... resulted in a solid orannge lifgt on the mower ie thermal fault (when mower cold). Worked connection in & out and fixed! I think EGO has a problem with the suitability of their connectors.
Great video.
That is a relatively easy repair compared to some others.
Had this issues for the first time on my oldest 5Ah EGO pack as well the other day. I just stuck it back on the slow charger and seemed to fix it for now.
Well dropping it about 2 or 3 feet onto carpet in the garage seemed to fix it. 🤯
Lol. Yes a lot of comments about it stating similar fix. After troubleshooting this and end up pointing to a loose connection, many viewers commented that dropping it or giving it a whack did get it back going. This may be short term of course and checking and tightening all connections may yield better long term results!
Thanks for another great video
Yet another great troubleshooting video! You commented that the Gen 1 BMS on the 2.5 and 5.0 ah have different programs, can you please elaborate on the difference? I have a 5.0 ah unit that I repaired using a 2.5ah BMS and it seems to be working fine both on the tools and also on the charger. Would really love to hear what is the difference in programs between the two BMS is. Thank you.
I do not have the program of course to know for sure, that is why I did not talk alot about it just a mention. Two things we know for sure is that the 2.5ah does not have that temperature monitoring middle board so must not look at that since my bad connection did not show up on the 2.5ah BMS. The second thing is some tools get the information from the D-terminal of the pack about the power it can deliver and some tools I am sure does limit output with the smaller packs. I know the chainsaw performance will reduce and if not mistaken the Mower but I am not 100% sure which ones. It seems the 2.5ah BMS could be a work around for a faulty temp monitoring board on the 5ah? Maybe the only drawback is the possible reduction of output power from some tools. Hope it helps and thanks for your comment!
@@ThriftyToolShed Interesting indeed. And yes, when you plugged it to the 2.5 BMS the orange blinking didn't show up which would be a good indication on the difference of the two BMS's. Not sure if you have noted it also, not all of the wire connectors slots are populated especially the 12 pin one. I might have to take a look on the number of wires in each wire connector to find the difference. But for now, the repaired 5.0 ah battery seems to be working fine on the mower. Thank you again.
Great work ... again
Thanks for your kind comment!
Interesting repair.
WOW i just took my 7A apart and its actually charging it actually started up the charger after months
Hi thanks for the awesome info. Mine flashes orange after a few seconds. Sometimes runs sone tooks but not others. It never works on a cold day. Leaving the pack in the sun or warm oven fixes it. Di you think its the same issue? Its a old 5 Ah pack
Thank you for your video. How much cost you to replace the new electronics board? After you replaced the new board, it was a green light on. What happen for the second turn on was yellow?
It is nowhere at this time we can buy replacement boards. I have had luck repairing some boards as we learn. I have shared on video all I have learned so far.
Love the awesome videos and keep up the great job! I have a gen1 5Ah battery stuck in maintenance mode. Have you ever came across this? Any info would help, thx.
The blinking green light. That is my very first EGO video. I found Q12 transistor shorted on my BMS board. It's been a common failure. I did have to suffer through so many viewers telling me it was just maintenance mode that nothing was wrong and also that it was under warranty and to send it back. Instead of just simply actually watching the video where I explained EGO did replace it and told me to keep and recycle it. I also explained it was constantly blinking green and it will pull the cells down to zero and ruin the cells if not charged very often or either unplug the board until repaired. It is an older video and just learning together as we tried to repair these. Hope you find it helpful.
ruclips.net/video/EH0GS0iUzzM/видео.htmlsi=CKDuAUYaDc8AP7HJ
ruclips.net/video/EH0GS0iUzzM/видео.htmlsi=CKDuAUYaDc8AP7HJ
Awesome!!!
Thank you for sharing your video! I have a similar problem with my Ego 56V, 5Ah battery. Despite being fully charged and measuring 57.6V, the red light starts blinking after operating for only 1-2 minutes. I'm wondering if this issue is caused by the circuit board or the wiring.
Yes if all cell groups are testing good and all connections are good at the BMS then most likely it is a BMS board failure. The most common issue is a cell group or more than one cell group reading lower even if the pack over all voltage is good. The second most common issue to me is connections on the board and thirdly the board itself. Thanks for your comment. Best of luck to you with yours!
my best guess is that the battery is completely drained I will let it do its thing for a bit
Thank you for the great video on the 5AH EGO battery. I have a 7.5AH battery that will not charge. Is there something I can do to repair this battery? I would hate to toss it out.
I do not have the 7.5Ah to say for sure. I would think they are very similar other than 14 sets of 3 cells in parallel instead of 14 sets of 2 cells in parallel like the 5Ah packs. Of course the 2.5Ah packs are just single cells in 14S or 14 in series.
Thanks for your comment!
Great video! What did you mean the loaded programs were different between the 2.5ah and 5ah? How did you find out they are different? What happened while using the 2.5ah bms?
I am planning on changing out a bad micro controllers with one from a smaller AH bms and want to know if it's feasible. Thanks!
After working on these a while what I believe is different is at least 2 things. The BMS communication with the tool gives the packs status and even though I have not figured out exactly what all the data is or how it is sent, we know it at least gets charge level and pack size. We know that because some tools are known to output differently based on what pack is inserted, such as the chainsaw and the Nexus power station knows the size as well when pack is inserted. It also seems to know the charge level to display and help calculate runtime. The physical difference is the 5ah pack and larger has boards in between the packs for monitoring the cells temperature and they feed back on separate wires that the 2.5ah does not have. With that said the connector is the same though if the packs are same generation. I have noticed that the earlier (Gen1) like the 2.0 and the 4.0ah packs have different connectors. So the same gen board may very well work from a small going into a larger pack. I am not sure the temperature monitoring will work in between the pack and the size would not display correctly on tools that may use that data. Hope it helps, best of luck to ya!
Should we replace any silicone after attempting this repair? Or how important is it?
Well, it is very important to keep out moisture to help with corrosion prevention. I look at it like how often you get your pack in a moist environment. I have several packs that I have left the potting off and I have not had issues at all with them. I also keep them in very dry environments and if I use them even in lawn mower while grass is damp, I will grab a pack with the protection on it instead, since I have the repaired packs marked so I know. If you use them often in a wet or damp environment, I would replace it!
thank very much for your video. Could you please post your voltages from B1- B14, and Vcc. Thanks again.
Well it will depend on the packs charge level but if course you want each of these cell test points to be well balanced and hopefully read between 2.7v and 4.2v. This is going around for example com (-) to B1 then B1 to B2 etc. Just like I showed on the latest video I shared. I showed test this similar on the Ruzixt 1 year battery update. The BMS is really similar.
Awesome video. I have been watching all your Ego videos to find the problem that I have. I have 2 batteries that read 57V fully charged but the batteries do not last half of the time. I even replaced the equipment and still have the same problem, drain so fast even with a good and healthy voltage. Thoughts?
Most likely at least one cell or Cell cluster is going low on you. I typically run it down until it shuts off and then go around as mentioned in several videos on the BMS and check accross the GND TO B1, B2 all the way around to B14 and see if you find a one that is lower or below the 2.7V or so. Somewhere below 3V the BMS will shut pack down to protect cells even if rest of pack still has capacity left. That would be why I check first.
@@ThriftyToolShed Thank you!
@@ThriftyToolShed any chance you service these packs? For a fee of course.
I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repiar service at this time. I work full time+ in a Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have found with a repair. I don't have alot of time left, I wish you the best of luck with yours.
Thank you for sharing this information with us. I found in my unit B5 TO B6 and B6 to B7 are 0 volts The rest are 3.63 volts DC. So one bank has possible 2 cells defective. Possible Bank 3 going from the back of the unit 4th beeing last bank to the left. Am I right, thanks again.
Glad you found it helpful. Sounds like that bank has bad cells for sure!
Great info vids, thanks for taking the time to post them. Would you have any idea why i now have two dodgy batteries.
I have a 4AH 56v batteries, started flashing yellow for overheat but it's not hot, and will randomly work on occasion. terminal Output is showing 56V. Ckecked each batttery and they all show 4v approx.
I change the BMS from a working 4AH battery onto the faulty one which still flashed yellow. I then put the good BMS back onto the good battery and its now flashing yellow. (stupid me). They are both six years old but the batteries look good.
Alot of times the blinking yellow or orange is a bad connection in-between the pack halves. The packs also have a NTC thermistor attached to the 2 pack halves that could be a possible issue. Thanks for your comment and best of luck to ya!
My 5 amp started doing this.
I enjoyed your videos. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I'm trying to convert a lead acid Ryobi electric riding mower to a 48 volt lithium battery (14s). I want to charge it using a 56 volt Ego charger. Do you have a way of tricking the charger into sensing the battery pack so it will start charging? Plan to use an off the shelf bms for this setup.
Thanks for your comment. So glad you like them. As far as the battery goes. You mentioned 48V and 14S. So 48V is actually 12S and 14S will be 56V. One thing I can tell you is that the Ego charger communicates with the pack D-terminal for testing and charging, so it would not be easy. I would most likely use a DC-DC Converter such as the Drok that I have a video on. You would have to get or build a 60V supply or so and the Drok Buck Convetor would make it easy to charge. Just a thought. I have not worked on the Ryobi rider yet, but if I had one I would be doing the same to thing to it I am sure.
@@ThriftyToolShed Thanks so much for the advice. It's a 14 cell setup so yes technically 56 volt at 4 volts per cell. Hard to find a specific charger that just limits output to 56 volts. I may just use a bench power supply. I will look into your suggestion. Thanks again.
Do you accept batteries to be shipped to you for repair? Thanks!
I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in an Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have found with a repair as we learn together. I don't have a lot of time left. I hope you can find someone you know that likes to tinker and hopefully after watching the video can help you out. I wish you the best of luck with yours.
Hey, very nice and helpful. What can you tell me about a new( fuel gauge) 400 battery that is like 6 months old and has no RESPONSE at all. Used as normal and charged to full but would not work in mower. Returned to charger- no RESPONSE from charger at all , no lights. If you take volt meter and stick it in the slots you get 56 volts!!! Fuel gauge has no response either. Do have any idea WTF is going on??? Would appreciate any input you would have. THANKS FOR " Listening "
Glad you found the video helpful. I have not had the opportunity to work on much with any of the newer packs (that I call Gen 3) with the segmented fuel gauge. It is similar to the older ones in many ways. The first thing to check is if it has a fuse on the connector board and the going to the BMS board. Simply make sure it has power from the connector board getting to the BMS board via the bottom middle connector from the BMS to the connector board. Usually it has 2 black and 2 red wires in that connector that should have 56V on it. If you have the 56V getting to the board from there it is usually an issue with the DC-DC converter part of the board. In about the middle of the board it has some larger capacitors and it has a small silver can or cube that has 3 coils in it for the converter circuit. Sometimes those coils do go bad or maybe even another issue with the circuit. If you have 56V in to the BMS then you should see some voltage like maybe 10V or so on the cap close to the coils. Many times the issue is around that, but could be many things really. It's a pretty complex board. This pack also should be under warranty which I assume you already know at this point. Best of luck to ya!
Is there a temperature sensor n these batteries? I have a 10ah Ego that if it’s in my Ego mower it shuts off after a minute if the outside temperature is over 85degrees. Mower works normally with other batteries. In colder temps the 10ah worked for much longer, works ok in leaf blowers.
Yes, I have an older video called "What is the T-terminal?" I talk a little about the NTCs in the pack also the 5Ah and above have temp. monitoring boards in-between the pack halves. The 10Ah was not out yet at that time so I am not sure exactly how similar that will be.
Hoping to get a next step for my 5 Ah Battery. Recently was gifted a 16" chain saw with the 5 Ah battery and charger with it. I also have a string trimmer with a 2.5 Ah battery that I used for testing. The 2.5 Ah battery charges on both chargers which eliminates that issue. The 5 Ah battery does not light up but makes a faint buzzing when on both charges. Any suggestion!?!?
No light on the pack in the charger or trying it in the tool either? Also have you measured the terminals at the output of the pack with a meter?
@@ThriftyToolShed no light at the charger and the tool itself. I have not measured the battery, I don’t have a meter to test them.
Any chance you could send me the wiring pinouts for the three connectors on the Gen 1 5.0 AH PCB, seems like the color wires are the same on mine versus the one you are showing in this video. When I took the battery apart some wires pulled out of the connectors or were already out. The pack would not light up when pushing the power button but the pack measured 51.6 volts. Most of the wires pulled right out of the BMS Board connector from the 8 pin lower connectors from the terminal board.
I do have a video on the 2.5ah BMS wiring for someone who asked for it. If you need more information than that let me know, and I will see what I can do. I know the 2.5 is slightly different, but hopefully it has enough information to be helpful.
My gen II BA2800T was deemed defective by EGO and replaced, not sure how to proceed with possible repairs to this one. When I press/release the button, I get 1st green segment, 2nd green segment, then all 5 segments go solid red for ~ 10 secs. I tried ohming across "-" and "T" and get no discernible reading (float). Across "-" and "+" I get 49.7v. I had previously tried tricking the thermistor circuit with a 10k resistor which made no difference. Any ideas appreciated!
BTW, I posted in this thread last year but due to (lack of) sort capability could not find that post...
I have not worked on one of the newer Gen packs with the segmented fuel gauge, but this is similar to the issue with the 1st and 2nd gen packs. In those packs the light would turn green when pressed and then flash red. I have only been able to fix those by replacing the BMS board. I have several bad packs for parts etc. a lot of those had bad cells so I had a couple spare boards and used them in these repairs. I spent a lot of time testing and troubleshooting the faulty boards with no success on this one. I could not find any obvious issue with the BMS board even though it was the cause. I have several repair videos of the BMS from the blinking green led being a shorted transistor and the red led being a loose connection in the pack. I have not found a board fix for this one yet. I kinda decided it might be a microcontroller issue as I found no odd comparison readings from testing a bad board with a known good one. Not saying for sure this is the same issue, but seems similar.
@@ThriftyToolShed Much appreciated, thanks!
So just a loose connection? Are the circuit boards available anywhere?
Yes it was a loose connection. Not available that I am aware of.
I have one of these batteries that has this problem. I've taken it apart and cleaned the contacts with electrical contact cleaner multiple times. This always works, but within a few months the problem comes back. Any ideas for a permanent fix?
If I did have an issue coming back I would consider giving the board a coating to help prevent it. I would make sure to use a silicone based potting to easily be removed if it were needed. Something like this as an example?
amzn.to/3EgwUpa
@@ThriftyToolShed I took the battery apart again, cleaned the contacts again, and sealed them with the product you recommended. But, here we are in mowing season again and the problem has returned. I only have a small suburban lot so I doubt is really overheating. For now, I take the battery out and drop it on the lawn from a couple of feet and it works again. I am debating soldering the connections but that would be quite a challenge in such a tight space.
you need better contact cleaner, something that will keep it from corroding in the future. Did you only take out the connectors between the batteries, or did you remove the connectors from the BMS board also? I just fixed my dead one, and initially only cleaned the connectors at the thermistors between the cells. I put it all back together and it seemed to work, but then the flashing came back. So I also cleaned the connector for the red and green wires from the temp sensors to the BMS. seems to be working now.
I used de-oxit to flush the connector (careful not to get it all over everything, or the foam bits inside will come unglued!). After letting the de-oxit sit for a bit, I pushed the connectors in and out, then did a final spray with some stuff called MG-801B, which has a compound called PPE (polyphenol-ether) in it, which is supposed to protect contacts and keep them from corroding. a bit expensive, but a little goes a long way, and is supposed to last a long time.
The board in my Ego 7.5Ah battery is fried. Do you know where I can buy a new one? Can you tell me how to search for one, like give me a part number or something?
I still haven't found a BMS replacement. That's one reason that I spent time trying to learn about the BMS board and show a few repairs on my channel. I even tried contacting the Ruzixt battery manufacturer to see if they would sell the BMS board seperatly and they still have not responded. Jacks small engine online is one of the few places selling EGO parts, but I still don't see the BMS listed.
Hope I can get a response but I have a problem with my 1 year old 2.5ah battery (no fuel gauge) and regular charger just now. It's been stored indoor and battery off the charger since end of fall last year. Now today after a quick usage I went to recharge it and it's having a weird problem. The red and green light on the charger flickers at the same time constantly and it whines up for 1-2 sec, stop, whines again for 1-2 sec, stop, blinks, battery blinks green/red/orange, sometimes just green as it cycles through those whining sequence over and over. It's like trying to turn over a car with a low battery on a sub-zero temp day is the best way I can put it. Not sure if you have come across this problem before but simply put, are both the batt and charger shot?
Is the charger making a clicking sound like a relay clicking on then off every few seconds?
@@ThriftyToolShed Yup, during the whining phases.
Usually when the pack is too low in charge it will do that. The battery terminal voltage must be reading low. The charger will try to bump to voltage up to safe charge level, but if not done by a certain time frame it may shutdown and show a faulty pack.
@@ThriftyToolShed Just to update, I left it on the charger to cycle through that mess and it finally "turn over" and charges normally. I think those annoying cycles bumps up the charge slowly until it was okay to charge as normal. Definitely weird and I've never seen that before but glad the batt and charger aren't faulty.
@@dkbomb I have seen it several times and sometimes it does bring it up to charge and as mentioned in my previous comment, sometimes it will not bring it back. Glad it brought it up to charge level.
could not even get it to start charging
Could you do me a huge favor and check what component is in RT3? Whatever was there on my board is blow completely off.
I do not mind helping. I remember RT2 at the bottom middle of the board being a NTC thermistor. It reads about 10K at room temperature. I don't remember the location of a RT3? Which area of the board are you seeing it. And is it a 5.0ah pack?
@@ThriftyToolShed On second look it is actually RT2. Some of the burn mark made it look like a "3" untill I wiped it off a little. Thank you!
heyo, i have this exact problem now with a 5A ego. i have tested the BMS on KNOWN good batteries and on all of them the bms is green and then start flashing orange. the problem is in my case on the bms and not on the wiring/connectors. i have checked all the cells and they seem good as well. when I put the ego on the charger all light light up so it is charged and full. is it usable in this state or not? should I fix it? I'm trying to make a 6AH BMS work on the 5A battery. i have already replaced the Q12 on this BMS as it was blinking green first, but now its onlygreen and then flashing orange. i also have 3 spare BMS for parts, all from 2AH/ 5AH/6AH egos. cant see any damage on the board either
This is one of the problems I have not figured out yet. Seems to be in the temperature monitor circuit, but all NTCs and the circuit around them check out fine. I have not repaired one of mine that does this yet.
@@ThriftyToolShed oh hmm, thats sad. would you be interested in broken BMS circuit boards (for spare parts or fixing)? i have 4 which I don't have any purpose for, but I guess they can be quite valuable for parts?
I really appreciate that, I do still have several at this time for parts. Thanks again!
ego design flaw with the battery in the middle to much heat ?
One of the best designs I have ever worked on. Most packs like the Echo 58V and Ryobi 40V are like bricks and not enough airflow through the pack. The EGO did design for air flow, an arc design to have more space and even used the phase change sleeves for the 1P and 2P packs. As far as the 3P or larger packs, it is always going to have potential risks of overheating with that many cells together. I typically stay away from 3P or larger packs for that reason. For absolutely sure all packs do have issues with heat in some situations and I do agree.
is it normal for ego battery to flash green red yellow while charging
Yes!
How did you open the middle part of the battery into two?
Mine had long screws holding the halves together. Then I could gently pull the halves apart. Being careful not to pull the wires. I think I had to unhook some balance wires to allow full movement.
Are you talking about the cover, or the inside part? Mine, the cover was very snug, but the two halves of the inner part where the batteries are had nothing holding them, except for a bit of silicone goo. I took a knife and carefully made a slit in it to help it come apart. watch out you don't cut any wires!
As a real engineer, and one who is really tired of the blinking yellow light on the mower and its intermittent failure to start (after a brief wroorrrrww..) for no apparent reason, I'm calling bullshit. WTH. It's a battery, in a lawn mower. WTH do we need a microcontroller circuit board in the first place? That's way too many things to go wrong in an outdoor use device; i.e., dirt, heat, moisture, etc. I've called EGO support, and got the runaround - oh, you need a new battery, yours is five years old. Baloney. We should be able to simply bypass the thermal limit (which I'm hearing is the main failure mode?) altogether on that whole PCB.
Are you an electrical engineer?
We need the micro controller, because lithium ion batteries need to be charged properly to keep them from starting on fire. You don't want thermal limits bypassed on a lithium battery. too hot and they can self combust. and you can't put that fire out with water...
The problem is not the thermal sensor, but the crappy connectors they used. Get some contact cleaner with a "preservative" in it, like MG-801B spay, and put it on the connector contacts. Similar stuff is used in electronics that will be vibrating and bouncing around to prevent fretting corrosion between the contacts. It's something that ego should have applied from the get go, and we wouldn't be having these problems.
Can I send you a battery and have you fix it?
I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in an Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have found with a repair as we learn together. I don't have a lot of time left. I hope you can find someone you know that likes to tinker and hopefully after watching the video can help you out. I wish you the best of luck with yours.
Could I possibly reach out to you via email or phone? I have a 7.5 doing the same thing and have reseated the connections with no luck. I have some ideas I would like to discuss.
I have 2 2.5 ego batteries 1 doesn't charge thats like 5 yrs old and another blinks green and then red its i think 6 yrs old anyone want to pay the shipping costs and I will mail them to you!
Great offer for someone needing parts for theirs. I hope if someone is needing parts sees this. If no takers I will take them don't throw them out yet. Thanks!
I have one 5ah and noticed barely any voltage between B5 and B7. For there rest of the measuring points it is measuring around 3.58. The voltage across the main is only 46v. Now I measured on the cell pack and all of them (4 measuring points on each of the 2 cell pack), is showing 3.58. I cannot figure out which cell area corresponds to between B5 and B6. Can you help identify?
I do have a 2.5ah wiring video to help someone having a similar issue figuring out which BMS wire color corresponded to which cells. It may be similar. The other way is trace the B test points like B5 for example to the connector and then trace the wire from that connector pin to the cells. I have had luck cleaning the connectors and reseating them.
Best of luck to ya!
@@ThriftyToolShed I have tracked down the cell pack for B5 and B6. If the voltage is low between those 2 points (B4-->B5 is good and B6-->B7 is good), is the issue with B5 or B6?
I usually check from the cells to connector with same wire and also check between the connectors for the B5 and B6 to the respective test points for B5 and B6 and see if bad connection at the connector. I have had the connector have minor corrosion on these a few times a d give issues. It would say reading low between B5 to B6 would be bad connection on B5.
@@ThriftyToolShed - Thanks. Great job. You pretty much answered it in your other video - ruclips.net/video/Z10OJLeQwno/видео.html
Here is an interesting behaviour, not sure if you have seen this. Battery is 5MAH. After charging the cells, I was able to use the battery in a blower. It lights up green when in use. But after a few seconds the light turns flashing red and blower stops. I can restart it and then same thing; it turns red, and stops. I did put the battery on the fast charger (thats all i have), the charger thinks for a few seconds, then goes straight to 100%. Now I have 2 BMS boards, the old style without gauge indicator and new style with indicator (both with Gen1 connectors). They both behave same way on charger. Only difference when i press the gauge - the one without indicator lights green, then other shows low charge red, followed by flashing red.The only thing I can think of, should each cell pack be balanced at same voltage? Right now, some are in the range of 3.58V, 3.52V, 3.6V, 3.57v. Any other thoughts?
ego should be ashamed of themselves. i have 2 blowers. 4 chargers and 4 batteries. have been through several chargers and batteries. they just dont last. YET, all my Ryobi stuff 1 battery went bad with over 12 batteries in the collection
Wow that's not good. So all Ego stuff under warranty correct? Just for reference, which Ryobi packs are you referring to, because though I have had ok luck with the 18v Ryobi packs, the 40v had been an absolute disappointment. Not even close to comparison to Ego. Going by my over 5 years experience with Both and having worked on many for others as well. I have not had either of these brands newest versions to be fair, they both have changed a little at least.
Absolute junk company. Big surprise.
These batteries are surprisingly well made, and the fact that we can open them and fix, if/when there is a problem, is a nice touch.
@@jon_byler For the exorbitant price, we should not have to do that. And certainly not many are capable of doing so.milked I said--junk.
You don’t have to do that. They have a great warranty. I have had one battery die years ago, they replaced it no questions asked. The battery I just repaired, I got for free with a mower I bought used. Original owner had already made the warranty claim, so I got a free battery for about half an hour of poking around in the battery. Others o know with ego stuff have never had a problem at all. They either fail quickly or last a long time. And failed quickly is under warranty.
Definitely not
@@jon_byler They certainly did not give me a free battery after it failed in year two. Garbage. Avoid at all cost.
Curious as to why they did not honor the battery under warranty, did you have the pack registered?