I like how he went into the tech of oil without trying to push his brand too much. It really shows how his advice applies to all oils and not just Red Line. Good info for those of us too broke to afford top tier oils.
sienile Yeah man, I use the cheapest traditional oil available. Change it monthly or ~6 weeks, and never had a single problem. Tbh, the lighter weight (still OEM recommended) is almost nicer on the butt-dyno. I feel that additives can be EITHER p: - used in the oil regularly (soo $$$$$) - used irregularly such as lucas additives, etc. (So just $). If you have an engine with decent/average tolerances than it seems perfectly fine to use the cheaper oils with an irregular additive procedure. Also, if you drive like a granny, you could do 1M km and still have cross-hatching, might not ever open the engine, might still have the original spark plugs (not recommended), etc. It's all about your usage.
I run Mobile 1. It's $25 on Amazon for 5 Quarts. At only $5-$6 more than cheep oils I can't go wrong. Then just go midrange on filters. The Mobile1 filters are a bit expensive.
Mobil 1 Extended Range all the way. (for daily driving) Change it every 20k miles, to be safe. Costs twice as much as conventional does up here, but far fewer changes, so saves quite a bit. Don't cheap out on filters. It's really important that they catch everything that comes their way. No paper crap. You want it to pull those contaminants in and trap them in the fibres, never to be released again.
Nope since it's a commercial we can never really know the integrity of the information we are being presented with. That's the cost of sponsored content. The cost of much "free" content on youtube if you really boil it down. It's like "articles" in women's magazines. Except you have to pay for the privilge of being conned there.
1337cookie Pay him? Absolutely not. We needed an expert to talk about lubrication, we were able to connect with Redline, and they were qualified for the job. Sponsorship (in its current definition) is when a company writes a check to either fund, direct, or post, some form of media. Redline had no financial involvement in this whatsoever. As for product placement, showing the facility helps introduce the subject visually. I would have happily shot it on a park bench though, and we'd have conveyed the same information. But I hate bees.
I see your point but by that measure, anytime an expert of any field discussed their area of expertise, it would be considered sponsored content. For example, when Steve Dinan talked about ECU tuning, he was clearly talking in generalities to the entire automotive world. The information was about what is possible with tuning, not limited to BMWs. /DRIVE has a Sponsored Content playlist. Those videos are usually focused on a company, rather than a subject. ENGINEERED has always involved experts in the fields, and we source guests by their level of knowledge, their credibility, and if we can actually get a hold of them. But at no point has the party being filmed had creative control of the show, or the episodes, the way a sponsored entity might. Myself and the other creators of the show write the episodes, building it around what we would like to learn, and what we think people should know. Our goal is to build a cache of knowledge for all of us so when we (you, me, everyone) works on their car, or modifies it, they do so as effectively as possible.
The best information on engine oil I have ever heard. Most time when someone talks about oil they speak about cold weather oil not hot weather. I’m in Texas don’t see much cold weather. I run 5w- 40 in my 2014 BMW X1.
I'm glad he didn't really push redline products on us, but rather provide us with information we can use to make better/smarter purchases. Very informative. Thank you Redline and Drive
I just put some redline engine oil in my 3.7L mustang and let me tell you.... as long as I can afford it, I will never use any other oil. 2014 Mustang V6 3.7L 6 speed. I will also be looking into trans and rear-end lubrication. THANK YOU REDLINE! you make awesome oil!
This is the best explanation on motor oils i have ever come across, you answered all my questions and more, cant speak highly enough on how clear and informative this presentation is, exellent!
Red Line should improve their marketing strategies. I live at Puerto Rico, and NOWHERE down here can you get your motor oil. MY personal rule: Oil change every 5,000 miles OR 6 months. "Oil is cheap, engines are expensive."--Scotty Kilmer.
Probably because it isn't mixed well and it separates. One is thicker than the other so the ocatane booster might sit at the top of the fuel tank. My GUESS.
Most likely it just boils down to the fact that the car hasn't been tuned to take advantage of increased octane (same timing). If you fill it up with 100 octane fuel for example you can push the timing more before detonation, but you actually have to [manually] change the timing advance in the computer. Without advancing the timing you won't see more power...so while it *could* do something, it essentially does nothing. Besides, say you put in 91 on an average basis (full tank), a small bottle of booster (even if it's 100) will bring it up to what, 92? 93? The timing difference that you can push between 91 and 92 is going to be so tiny that it'd be a bit difficult for a tuner to take advantage of...then until you change it back you have to always put that octane booster in there..
+roger supernova is your car force inducted or super high compression (higher than 10 to 1 compression)? If no than they won't do a single thing. The only thing I've seen is they can control knocking a tad on force inducted cars where only low octane petrol is available, and are very lousy at that so..... Overpriced Snake oil to the max
Very good video, as an old school aircraft mechanic. I hate synthetic oils but now forced to use them. I do appreciate this video. Makes me feel a little better getting screwed over with the high price of the synthetic oils!
Please thank Mr. Evans for a truly informative and well-delivered explanation of oil types. I learned a great deal and much appreciated his friendly and polished delivery.
I respect that he didnt spend the whole time pushing redline products but rather giving advice. The brand is already represented in the headline. thumbs up
Excellent video. Full of information for us motor heads and also general public. I run nothing but Red Line in my bike. It has over 35,000 miles and its never run or sounded better.
very informative episode. great to hear it directly from an engineer. what wasn't mentioned is the current maintenance on what's becoming more common these days, direct intake engines.
Good video I wish they had a update, my cars engine recommend 0w20 but…. But in just about every other country they list a range of oils based on ambient temperature how does everyone feel about that. I know most internet people say it’s from epa/mpg etc etc
Thank you, i have been a Mechanic just about in all area's and i am really surprised how my thoughts, my thinking aligned so close to what you gave so freely, WOW this was an awesome video and i am happy to hear for just a country boy, i was not that for off. Thanks again
I need to start making a list of all the channels i'm subbed to that have nothing but educational videos like this. Videos like this are the reason why swear blindly that college in brick and mortal buildings are dead and gone!
It's true.. when I put synthetic gear oil in my Mitsubishi lancer, it shifted much slicker. Same when I went to the to semi - syn (I will be going full syn on my next oil change, but as the car could have had mineral in it from the last owner, I didn't want to go straight to full syn) It ran smoother, much smoother on cold starts and quieter too. If I car has been run on cheap mineral for all it's life, sometimes you can get oil leaks thru the gaskets as the syn tends to break up all the crud that is block them, so I wanted to check for that before going the whole hog.
um... no comparing the effects and feel for before I drained it till after. Maybe their won't be such a difference from the semi synth to the full synth, but I prefer to know my engine is going to last longer for it.
Seems like a low priced synthetic oil is almost always going to be better than the best conventional. I use synthetic in everything, including lawn mowers, generators, etc. It improves starting, power, fuel consumption and even makes an engine quieter which should mean less friction and cooler running. I don't buy into the longer change intervals though, it is getting dirty, so you should still shoot for 3000 mile changes in cars. It also makes sense to use it in the drive train, steering and brake system while you're at it. We have a 6.5 hp mini bike, nothing special, but after changing to synthetic, not only is it quieter, it will pull the front tire and spin the rear, (OK, just barely, but still better than with conventional oil) with the improved horsepower. All the benefits easily outweigh the few extra bucks. So many myths, one guy said to me, "I heard that if you go synthetic, you can't change back" My answer..."Once you try it you WON''T WANT to go back!"
best oil rundown I've seen. I can confirm that good oil saves engines over time. magnetic sump plug was covered with quarter teaspoon of metallic sludge and black as treacle over 10000km on cheap oil, Pennzoil went 10k no sludge and still semi gold.
Cam & Dean!!! Bring back Popular Hot Roding. I'll never forget that's the very first time I saw Jesse James was on your show with his Viper. Miss that show.
Best oil out there imo. Pennzoil ultra platinum isn't a bad cheaper priced oil either. My second choice if I was looking to save money. Beats alot of the supposed best guys. But Redline is next level
This was incredibly interesting and informative! Great to see someone from within the industry kind of give a breakdown of the importance of some of these things in simple terms and without being overly salesman like (he could have pushed Redline Oil more in this video and I don't think I would have minded, it was that good.).
As a fleet manager I used everything from their gas and diesel additives to their gear oils, they are the best, my machine shop hates me using this stuff because they can't remove this oil off of parts easily, especially since the county I live in has such heel - clicking eco regs, I was told to stop using their oils. Alas, neither O'Reilly or advanced or auto zone no longer carry their products, sucks because shipping from cali to Colorado on a 6 gallon case is close to a hundred bucks, that's why I stopped using redline products.
I had the same problem, seems they only give price breaks to really large orders. Try schmoozing a high line dealer like Porsche, they often recommend RedlIne (or used to) or a racing shop, they can get the stuff a lot cheaper since they buy in bulk.
I enjoyed this video very much. IMHO ;Usually very good tech representatives know it is important to be objective without flogging their brand. It builds respect in the customer for the knowledge base. And if I respect the tech guy, his product usually gets top consideration, because he does have the answers, and is clearly heads above any snake oil claims. Also, this is the guy you go to for product support afterwards.
Anytime I go to the strip I add a little honey to increase the viscosity inside my massive block. Just a tad. I'm not too greedy. It does wonders for my Honda Civic with the Earth destroying 170ft/tq and 201 horsepower from the K24. It allows me to push my Civic Si with the aerodynamics package to beat 1/4 mile killers like the Corolla-S, powerful J35 equipped Honda Odyssey, and the powerful tour-de-force time traveling Pontaic Aztek with the highly sought after 3.4L LA1 V6 with the K&N air filter assembly. I swear last time I raced an Aztek the engine was so pungent it smelled just like crystal meth. Now that I think about it when I raced the Aztek I did begin to hallucinate. Either way, if you see me on the strip with my Civic Si with the aerodynamics package, and you see bees emanating from the exhaust, be warned, you will be racing a demon dawg, dog. OK, thanks.
Loved my temp gauge on my C5 Z06 center stack. Always waited until the temp got around 160-180F before I started revving it out and beating on it. Had none of this info, just common sense. Great video!
g4rr377 Agreed, that's why I personally don't drive even though I'm going on 26 soon. Sure I could "afford" to but not in a way that would benefit me or the vehicle. I'd be losing money in gas & unable to perform routine maintenance.
march11stoneytony True but most of them don't do that either. So long as it "works" & so far hasn't given them any obvious trouble they don't see the big picture in those bad practices.
Mike Soda ....True, I used to get oil on my company fuel card. good quality Shell oil and use it to flush my Harley out. Then I would fill up with the correct oil. Did this twice a year. The cost of two filters and a UK gallon didnt cost the earth and gave me piece of mind. .
At 6:30, I don't understand. I thought heavier weight oils are better for more heat? Why would a 10W-60 cause the oil temp to go higher than a 10W-50 or a 10W-40??? What am I missing?
My Porsche 911 with a 3.2 liter engine keeps running at cold temperatures, I cannot seem to get temparature in the engine driving at normal (road legal) speeds. Operating temperatures when driving stay at max. 80 degrees Celcius. I run a semi synthetic 10W40 oil and renewed my engine thermostat just to be sure. Is there a way to get more temperature at normal speeds with another type of oil? It does not feel right running at 80 degrees, I really want to see temperatures of 95-100 degrees. Thanks.
So is 5W30 actually giving you any better protection than 0W30 when you get it hot on a track day? From his explanation it sounds like maybe not. In which case, why would you ever run 5W30 instead of 0W30? From his explanation it sounded like the 0w can start the engine safely in colder temps and the fact that its top rating is 30 means its the same as 5W30 once it gets up to high temp.
You're right, given the same operating temperature viscosity, it's always better to use the oil with the thinnest cold viscosity you can get, which is usually a 0w oil.
In practice, the greater the discrepancy between the 1st and last number, the more VII (Viscosity Index Improvers) they would need to add to maintain that wide multi-grade range. Of course, better base stocks such as group VI used by Amsoil or group V used by redline are inherently multi-grade due to their inherent thermal stability but for really wild grades such as say 0W-60, more VIIs are needed. The trouble with VIIs is that the more VIIs you use, the more likely you are to suffer loss of high temperature viscosity due to VII breakdown over long term high temp use. Hence, for say a BMW M3 meant for hard tracks use but not many cold starts, an oil of say 15W-50 would be ideal since it's running hot enough most of the time and that grade has relatively little VIIs.
Ah ok that makes sense and I think I heard something similar a while ago. I was just surprised they didn't explain that in this video or in most articles about the subject online. So in reality am I better off sticking with 5w30 considering my car gets a lot of abuse on track, or is 0w30 going to be absolutely fine? I've noticed it struggles to start a bit now that the temperature outside is dropping and I'm on 5w30. It still starts but not as easily as it did in summer.
ChrisDrift Check out my link to the Ferrari Chat articles, or this link posted elsewhere in these comments has tons of great info: 540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/ Look particularly at section 8, testing several 0w vs. 5w oils for use in C6 Z06 cars. If your main concern is ultimate wear protection for hard running engines, one of the listed 5w oils might be better. But for wear protection on cold startups, common on daily driven cars, a 0w oil is going to provide better reduction in engine wear.
Thanks Redline for the advice. I have been running redline fluids in my FWD SR20 vehicles for 14 years, because of Mike Kojima's, aka Choaderboy2 from the OG sr20forum.com, advice. Long live the brilliant people, like Mike Kojima and Dave Coleman, that made Sport Compact Car Magazine the inspiration of wanna be Automotive Engineers like me :)
I had an old carbureted 5 ltr V8 and added Slick 50 to it. After about 10 minutes the idle had increased from 800rpm all the way to 2300rpm just from the reduction in friction. I had to wind the idle speed adjustment back significantly just to compensate. Really was an amazing result. Unfortunately it isn't as noticeable on EFI cars as they automatically adjust idle speed.
The thing about temperature range at 4:00 is counter intuitive. He did say something later about how synthetics are more stable over temperature, but his sketch doesn't seem to comply.
SOOOOO glad I never have to think about this stuff again! I've driven 20,000 miles without a single drop of motor oil or gas in the last 2 years thanks to my electric car! I was so sick of having to carry quarts of this stuff around with me in my last car....done, bye bye oil. I know there is still plenty of oil used in plastics and rubber etc, but even that is beginning to change :)
David Clark sure but electricity is in thousands , even millions more places than gas stations... it's amazing how much more you begin to think about the energy you use to get around. My next electric car will go further than my last gas car in one tank / charge already.
You mentioned that friction modifiers when used in manual transmissions generally slows down the movement of the synchros, generally allowing for better gear engagement. What about dog engagement style gearboxes? How do friction modifiers affect the performance of this transmission?
what if you're adding motor oil when it is low. if you add a different viscosity or brand, do the two types of oil blend well enough when it is running to not be an issue?
originally bmw s54 spec'd 5w30...then they had the whole bearing issues(undersized and too tight) so their bandaid solution was 10w60... and it stayed for a while. only recently have they got off that stuff.
I only use synthetic. I started using it in my first Camry. I changed the oil every 3 to 4,000 miles and used additives like Slick 50 and Duralube and I sold the car at 400,000 miles and it still ran like a top. I sold it for $400 to a guy and I use to have an unusual rear window decal and my brother saw the car 3 years after I sold it and it was still on the road. The oil I used to use was Mobil 1. I changed the filter each time I changed it and I also changed the transmission fluid every 10 to 12,000 miles. Back in those days the mechanic used to give you the printout from the emissions machine and I had very little emissions, even in the 3 to 400,000 miles and the mechanic could not believe it. But it was true. I never raced a car though.
I like how he went into the tech of oil without trying to push his brand too much. It really shows how his advice applies to all oils and not just Red Line. Good info for those of us too broke to afford top tier oils.
+
sienile
Yeah man, I use the cheapest traditional oil available. Change it monthly or ~6 weeks, and never had a single problem. Tbh, the lighter weight (still OEM recommended) is almost nicer on the butt-dyno. I feel that additives can be EITHER p:
- used in the oil regularly (soo $$$$$)
- used irregularly such as lucas additives, etc. (So just $).
If you have an engine with decent/average tolerances than it seems perfectly fine to use the cheaper oils with an irregular additive procedure. Also, if you drive like a granny, you could do 1M km and still have cross-hatching, might not ever open the engine, might still have the original spark plugs (not recommended), etc. It's all about your usage.
I run Mobile 1. It's $25 on Amazon for 5 Quarts. At only $5-$6 more than cheep oils I can't go wrong. Then just go midrange on filters. The Mobile1 filters are a bit expensive.
Mobil 1 Extended Range all the way. (for daily driving) Change it every 20k miles, to be safe. Costs twice as much as conventional does up here, but far fewer changes, so saves quite a bit.
Don't cheap out on filters. It's really important that they catch everything that comes their way. No paper crap. You want it to pull those contaminants in and trap them in the fibres, never to be released again.
Extendet range or not, it`s not save to use oil for 20k miles. Europe maximum is 15k km
As a business owner, I couldn't think of a better spokesperson than this guy.
He could sell Shamwow to a sandstorm. Does a sandstorm need a Shamwow? No. He's that good.
Zack, but Darude does...
He may have accrued some aspect of that skill from his days as an editor.
Sarah Dell I can think of the worst kinds....Amsoil dealers 🤣😂
Free education at its best. Thank you /drive
Itumeleng Setilo Agreed! I love videos like this
Itumeleng Setilo l?l
Is not free though its sponsored. It's not free if someone else is paying.
rimmersbryggeri from our perspective it's free.
Nope since it's a commercial we can never really know the integrity of the information we are being presented with. That's the cost of sponsored content. The cost of much "free" content on youtube if you really boil it down. It's like "articles" in women's magazines. Except you have to pay for the privilge of being conned there.
my wife just shakes her head as i geek out and watch these videos
My girlfriend watches them with me. I have a cool girlfriend.
i used to have a girlfriend that sometimes would do this... literally the most bonding thing ever.
Adrian Hall adriaaaaaaan :)
Most girls dont connect with guy stuff.. I however do.
She should watch this to better understand why oil changes are key for a vehicles longevity
This is the best explanation of motor oil I've seen so far.
Great video! It's good for enthusiasts to have an interest in the engineering side of things!
Superb - could listen to this guy all day.
I needed that guy too in high school! just sayin
Cameron Evans is a great communicator. I have never heard such a clear, concise, and understandable explanation of lubricants anywhere. Thank you.
This... this is how a sponsored video (or an ad) should be!
It wasn't sponsored, but I get your point.
macroorchidism definitely. Interesting and I'm more likely to choose redline in the future.
Did you pay the man? Or did he get free product placement? That's technically sponsored.
1337cookie Pay him? Absolutely not. We needed an expert to talk about lubrication, we were able to connect with Redline, and they were qualified for the job.
Sponsorship (in its current definition) is when a company writes a check to either fund, direct, or post, some form of media. Redline had no financial involvement in this whatsoever.
As for product placement, showing the facility helps introduce the subject visually. I would have happily shot it on a park bench though, and we'd have conveyed the same information. But I hate bees.
I see your point but by that measure, anytime an expert of any field discussed their area of expertise, it would be considered sponsored content.
For example, when Steve Dinan talked about ECU tuning, he was clearly talking in generalities to the entire automotive world. The information was about what is possible with tuning, not limited to BMWs.
/DRIVE has a Sponsored Content playlist. Those videos are usually focused on a company, rather than a subject.
ENGINEERED has always involved experts in the fields, and we source guests by their level of knowledge, their credibility, and if we can actually get a hold of them.
But at no point has the party being filmed had creative control of the show, or the episodes, the way a sponsored entity might. Myself and the other creators of the show write the episodes, building it around what we would like to learn, and what we think people should know. Our goal is to build a cache of knowledge for all of us so when we (you, me, everyone) works on their car, or modifies it, they do so as effectively as possible.
The best information on engine oil I have ever heard. Most time when someone talks about oil they speak about cold weather oil not hot weather. I’m in Texas don’t see much cold weather. I run 5w- 40 in my 2014 BMW X1.
I'm glad he didn't really push redline products on us, but rather provide us with information we can use to make better/smarter purchases. Very informative. Thank you Redline and Drive
I just put some redline engine oil in my 3.7L mustang and let me tell you.... as long as I can afford it, I will never use any other oil.
2014 Mustang V6 3.7L 6 speed. I will also be looking into trans and rear-end lubrication.
THANK YOU REDLINE! you make awesome oil!
Agreed
I wager that this video is the single most educational piece /Drive has ever published! Kudos!!
Outstanding video. Glad it wasn't just a Redline product commercial.
This is the best explanation on motor oils i have ever come across, you answered all my questions and more,
cant speak highly enough on how clear and informative this presentation is, exellent!
I absolutely love these, being my favourite Dean explaining ECU remaps
make more of these yes i lov them, . the long videos w knowledgable people explaining smth theyre truly passionate about?? i lolv it
This has been the best video I've seen on motor oil education to date.
Red Line should improve their marketing strategies. I live at Puerto Rico, and NOWHERE down here can you get your motor oil. MY personal rule: Oil change every 5,000 miles OR 6 months. "Oil is cheap, engines are expensive."--Scotty Kilmer.
I made a switch from castrol to red line and after listening to this guy i have no regrets 😎
This guy is very knowledgable and great at communicating things in simple terms.
so what about octane booster. you would get back to that.....
It doesn't work, generally speaking.
yellowbusguy yeah i know, but i would like to hear the reasons why it doesn't work behind it from a professional.
We use xylene as an octane booster.
Probably because it isn't mixed well and it separates. One is thicker than the other so the ocatane booster might sit at the top of the fuel tank. My GUESS.
Most likely it just boils down to the fact that the car hasn't been tuned to take advantage of increased octane (same timing). If you fill it up with 100 octane fuel for example you can push the timing more before detonation, but you actually have to [manually] change the timing advance in the computer. Without advancing the timing you won't see more power...so while it *could* do something, it essentially does nothing.
Besides, say you put in 91 on an average basis (full tank), a small bottle of booster (even if it's 100) will bring it up to what, 92? 93? The timing difference that you can push between 91 and 92 is going to be so tiny that it'd be a bit difficult for a tuner to take advantage of...then until you change it back you have to always put that octane booster in there..
+roger supernova is your car force inducted or super high compression (higher than 10 to 1 compression)? If no than they won't do a single thing. The only thing I've seen is they can control knocking a tad on force inducted cars where only low octane petrol is available, and are very lousy at that so..... Overpriced Snake oil to the max
Very good video, as an old school aircraft mechanic. I hate synthetic oils but now forced to use them. I do appreciate this video. Makes me feel a little better getting screwed over with the high price of the synthetic oils!
Had the pleasure of being next to this guy on the track a few years back.. Great guy, and run Redline in pretty much everything now!
I don't always buy redline oil but when I do..Cameron Evans and Dave are the people who come to mind.
As an sponsored viseo, I'm surprised to see it can stay objective and also gives some really helpful advice. More of this please!
I like how the speaker did not push any of his products. Clear and unbiased viewpoint. I did need a few more details, off to the Redline website now.
Good video. Lot's of easy to understand info in a short period, and the guy is really enthusiastic.
Great video. This touched on a whole bunch of aspects of oil technology. Now I have a great place to start reading about it for myself.
Holy schnikes, what an insanely informative video.
Good on you drive, love it.
I went through multiple gl4 diff oils for my manual with bad results. Till I found redline mtl. 70w80. Game changer. Redline won me for life.
This is brilliant. So much knowledge in such short time. I love it. Thank you Drive. Subscribing to you is totally worth it.
I know a lot about motor oils but still watched this, very good video, Redline oils are very good indeed.
Please thank Mr. Evans for a truly informative and well-delivered explanation of oil types. I learned a great deal and much appreciated his friendly and polished delivery.
Watched many videos regarding oil, this is one the best....really enjoyed it, Cameron did a great job!
Excellent video. It's one of the best I've ever seen on the topic. Clear and well delivered
I respect that he didnt spend the whole time pushing redline products but rather giving advice. The brand is already represented in the headline. thumbs up
Excellent video. Full of information for us motor heads and also general public. I run nothing but Red Line in my bike. It has over 35,000 miles and its never run or sounded better.
very informative episode. great to hear it directly from an engineer.
what wasn't mentioned is the current maintenance on what's becoming more common these days, direct intake engines.
Would love to see this series continue in 2018!
u guys are killin youtube with these badass videos, this is 10/10
thanks guys
Good video I wish they had a update, my cars engine recommend 0w20 but…. But in just about every other country they list a range of oils based on ambient temperature how does everyone feel about that. I know most internet people say it’s from epa/mpg etc etc
Thank you, i have been a Mechanic just about in all area's and i am really surprised how my thoughts, my thinking aligned so close to what you gave so freely, WOW this was an awesome video and i am happy to hear for just a country boy, i was not that for off.
Thanks again
I need to start making a list of all the channels i'm subbed to that have nothing but educational videos like this. Videos like this are the reason why swear blindly that college in brick and mortal buildings are dead and gone!
It's true.. when I put synthetic gear oil in my Mitsubishi lancer, it shifted much slicker. Same when I went to the to semi - syn (I will be going full syn on my next oil change, but as the car could have had mineral in it from the last owner, I didn't want to go straight to full syn) It ran smoother, much smoother on cold starts and quieter too. If I car has been run on cheap mineral for all it's life, sometimes you can get oil leaks thru the gaskets as the syn tends to break up all the crud that is block them, so I wanted to check for that before going the whole hog.
um... no comparing the effects and feel for before I drained it till after. Maybe their won't be such a difference from the semi synth to the full synth, but I prefer to know my engine is going to last longer for it.
You are going to notice a difference when changing the oil regardless, but yeah, whats more important is how long the smoothness continues :)
You guys couldn't have had a better guy explain all of this!!! Cam is the Guy!!!
Seems like a low priced synthetic oil is almost always going to be better than the best conventional. I use synthetic in everything, including lawn mowers, generators, etc. It improves starting, power, fuel consumption and even makes an engine quieter which should mean less friction and cooler running. I don't buy into the longer change intervals though, it is getting dirty, so you should still shoot for 3000 mile changes in cars. It also makes sense to use it in the drive train, steering and brake system while you're at it.
We have a 6.5 hp mini bike, nothing special, but after changing to synthetic, not only is it quieter, it will pull the front tire and spin the rear, (OK, just barely, but still better than with conventional oil) with the improved horsepower. All the benefits easily outweigh the few extra bucks.
So many myths, one guy said to me, "I heard that if you go synthetic, you can't change back" My answer..."Once you try it you WON''T WANT to go back!"
I LOVE these engineered videos! Learn so much..
Was the title supposed to be 10W-TF?
best oil rundown I've seen. I can confirm that good oil saves engines over time. magnetic sump plug was covered with quarter teaspoon of metallic sludge and black as treacle over 10000km on cheap oil, Pennzoil went 10k no sludge and still semi gold.
Any opinions on these high priced ceramic metal treatments? I've used them and could deff hear less engine noise and feel less vibrations.
Cam & Dean!!! Bring back Popular Hot Roding. I'll never forget that's the very first time I saw Jesse James was on your show with his Viper. Miss that show.
I use Redline and have for many years. Get it Amazon Prime as well. Win win!
Best oil out there imo. Pennzoil ultra platinum isn't a bad cheaper priced oil either. My second choice if I was looking to save money. Beats alot of the supposed best guys. But Redline is next level
Thank you for the time spent on your video... Cheers
This was incredibly interesting and informative! Great to see someone from within the industry kind of give a breakdown of the importance of some of these things in simple terms and without being overly salesman like (he could have pushed Redline Oil more in this video and I don't think I would have minded, it was that good.).
Great video--sat through the whole thing and learned a bit, much appreciated!
Wow! Damn good video and well presented 10/10. And you sir explined everything perfectly.
As a fleet manager I used everything from their gas and diesel additives to their gear oils, they are the best, my machine shop hates me using this stuff because they can't remove this oil off of parts easily, especially since the county I live in has such heel - clicking eco regs, I was told to stop using their oils. Alas, neither O'Reilly or advanced or auto zone no longer carry their products, sucks because shipping from cali to Colorado on a 6 gallon case is close to a hundred bucks, that's why I stopped using redline products.
I had the same problem, seems they only give price breaks to really large orders. Try schmoozing a high line dealer like Porsche, they often recommend RedlIne (or used to) or a racing shop, they can get the stuff a lot cheaper since they buy in bulk.
3r Racing in Denver sells RedLine. FYI.
Go to ECS Tuning. Free shipping on any order above $49.
This is my favorite sub channel/channel period on RUclips.... Thank you for putting it on for us.... Nerds unite..
/ENGINEERED returns? Awesome!!
I enjoyed this video very much.
IMHO ;Usually very good tech representatives know it is important to be objective without flogging their brand. It builds respect in the customer for the
knowledge base. And if I respect the tech guy, his product usually gets top consideration, because he does have the answers, and is clearly heads above any snake oil claims. Also, this is the guy you go to for product support afterwards.
Very informative! Love these types of uploads.
Anytime I go to the strip I add a little honey to increase the viscosity inside my massive block. Just a tad. I'm not too greedy. It does wonders for my Honda Civic with the Earth destroying 170ft/tq and 201 horsepower from the K24. It allows me to push my Civic Si with the aerodynamics package to beat 1/4 mile killers like the Corolla-S, powerful J35 equipped Honda Odyssey, and the powerful tour-de-force time traveling Pontaic Aztek with the highly sought after 3.4L LA1 V6 with the K&N air filter assembly. I swear last time I raced an Aztek the engine was so pungent it smelled just like crystal meth. Now that I think about it when I raced the Aztek I did begin to hallucinate. Either way, if you see me on the strip with my Civic Si with the aerodynamics package, and you see bees emanating from the exhaust, be warned, you will be racing a demon dawg, dog. OK, thanks.
Underrated comment 😂
Please do more of these videos!!! I learn a ton
Loved my temp gauge on my C5 Z06 center stack. Always waited until the temp got around 160-180F before I started revving it out and beating on it. Had none of this info, just common sense. Great video!
Unfortunately cheap bastards will still use the bottom of the barrel oil, thinking they're saving money in the long run.
g4rr377
Agreed, that's why I personally don't drive even though I'm going on 26 soon. Sure I could "afford" to but not in a way that would benefit me or the vehicle. I'd be losing money in gas & unable to perform routine maintenance.
This is why I can't avoid second-guessing my decisions when I buy a used car. The things people do to their vehicles just makes me cringe..
Mike Soda depends on the application though. It's often better to replace cheaper oil at a higher frequency, then better at a lower frequency.
march11stoneytony
True but most of them don't do that either. So long as it "works" & so far hasn't given them any obvious trouble they don't see the big picture in those bad practices.
Mike Soda ....True, I used to get oil on my company fuel card. good quality Shell oil and use it to flush my Harley out. Then I would fill up with the correct oil. Did this twice a year. The cost of two filters and a UK gallon didnt cost the earth and gave me piece of mind. .
Love how the editor put "Sorry" into it when the mic popped.
Somebody give that editor a drink.
Lol mic popped just as I saw this comment
Well presented, pertinent info about a much debated topic. Nice job!
At 6:30, I don't understand. I thought heavier weight oils are better for more heat? Why would a 10W-60 cause the oil temp to go higher than a 10W-50 or a 10W-40??? What am I missing?
10W-60 creates more friction because it's thicker , friction = heat.
My Porsche 911 with a 3.2 liter engine keeps running at cold temperatures, I cannot seem to get temparature in the engine driving at normal (road legal) speeds. Operating temperatures when driving stay at max. 80 degrees Celcius. I run a semi synthetic 10W40 oil and renewed my engine thermostat just to be sure. Is there a way to get more temperature at normal speeds with another type of oil? It does not feel right running at 80 degrees, I really want to see temperatures of 95-100 degrees. Thanks.
So is 5W30 actually giving you any better protection than 0W30 when you get it hot on a track day? From his explanation it sounds like maybe not. In which case, why would you ever run 5W30 instead of 0W30? From his explanation it sounded like the 0w can start the engine safely in colder temps and the fact that its top rating is 30 means its the same as 5W30 once it gets up to high temp.
You're right, given the same operating temperature viscosity, it's always better to use the oil with the thinnest cold viscosity you can get, which is usually a 0w oil.
but then why does 5w30 even exist and why do some manufacturers recommend it instead of 0w30
In practice, the greater the discrepancy between the 1st and last number, the more VII (Viscosity Index Improvers) they would need to add to maintain that wide multi-grade range. Of course, better base stocks such as group VI used by Amsoil or group V used by redline are inherently multi-grade due to their inherent thermal stability but for really wild grades such as say 0W-60, more VIIs are needed.
The trouble with VIIs is that the more VIIs you use, the more likely you are to suffer loss of high temperature viscosity due to VII breakdown over long term high temp use. Hence, for say a BMW M3 meant for hard tracks use but not many cold starts, an oil of say 15W-50 would be ideal since it's running hot enough most of the time and that grade has relatively little VIIs.
Ah ok that makes sense and I think I heard something similar a while ago. I was just surprised they didn't explain that in this video or in most articles about the subject online. So in reality am I better off sticking with 5w30 considering my car gets a lot of abuse on track, or is 0w30 going to be absolutely fine? I've noticed it struggles to start a bit now that the temperature outside is dropping and I'm on 5w30. It still starts but not as easily as it did in summer.
ChrisDrift
Check out my link to the Ferrari Chat articles, or this link posted elsewhere in these comments has tons of great info: 540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/ Look particularly at section 8, testing several 0w vs. 5w oils for use in C6 Z06 cars. If your main concern is ultimate wear protection for hard running engines, one of the listed 5w oils might be better. But for wear protection on cold startups, common on daily driven cars, a 0w oil is going to provide better reduction in engine wear.
Thanks Redline for the advice. I have been running redline fluids in my FWD SR20 vehicles for 14 years, because of Mike Kojima's, aka Choaderboy2 from the OG sr20forum.com, advice. Long live the brilliant people, like Mike Kojima and Dave Coleman, that made Sport Compact Car Magazine the inspiration of wanna be Automotive Engineers like me :)
This was awesome! Thanks for the info! Now can we get one with VP race fuels?
I had an old carbureted 5 ltr V8 and added Slick 50 to it. After about 10 minutes the idle had increased from 800rpm all the way to 2300rpm just from the reduction in friction. I had to wind the idle speed adjustment back significantly just to compensate.
Really was an amazing result. Unfortunately it isn't as noticeable on EFI cars as they automatically adjust idle speed.
I'm glad to see another engineered video, it's been too long.
Very nice video, but what about blinker fluid?
this is hands down one of the best videos ive seen! please do more videos! could you do a video on fuel!
EXCELLENT!! THANK YOU! When I can afford it, it will ALWAYS BE REDLINE!!!
That's really cool that you are their marketing director. You know your oil =)
Hi guys !
Really an awesome video ,learned a lot from this series 🙂
This guy makes for a good speaker in the video. More plz.
The thing about temperature range at 4:00 is counter intuitive. He did say something later about how synthetics are more stable over temperature, but his sketch doesn't seem to comply.
Ya.. I think he was trying to show the stability of the oil from cold to hot vs conventional, ie: the synthetics stay more stable (smaller line).
SOOOOO glad I never have to think about this stuff again! I've driven 20,000 miles without a single drop of motor oil or gas in the last 2 years thanks to my electric car! I was so sick of having to carry quarts of this stuff around with me in my last car....done, bye bye oil. I know there is still plenty of oil used in plastics and rubber etc, but even that is beginning to change :)
David Clark sure but electricity is in thousands , even millions more places than gas stations... it's amazing how much more you begin to think about the energy you use to get around. My next electric car will go further than my last gas car in one tank / charge already.
please do more of these engineered videos! i like em even more than the ones with chris harris
Really I was lost for long time trying to understand auto oil. Cameron made it so easy to understand. I truly appreciate this knowledge sharing
Great video! one question where would new organic oils such as motul v series fall under? poly esther?
You mentioned that friction modifiers when used in manual transmissions generally slows down the movement of the synchros, generally allowing for better gear engagement. What about dog engagement style gearboxes? How do friction modifiers affect the performance of this transmission?
This was a really good video, more like this please.
what if you're adding motor oil when it is low. if you add a different viscosity or brand, do the two types of oil blend well enough when it is running to not be an issue?
Love the /ENGINEERED. More! More!
3:57 I'm confused. He's saying that petroleum based oils work in a greater range of temperatures, so how does that make synthetic better?
Petro based works in greater range but will degrade more easily
originally bmw s54 spec'd 5w30...then they had the whole bearing issues(undersized and too tight) so their bandaid solution was 10w60... and it stayed for a while. only recently have they got off that stuff.
Who makes your jingles?? They are dope.
SO can you tell me what Sinclair nano oil is like? Is it good for a general normal car engine?
I only use synthetic. I started using it in my first Camry. I changed the oil every 3 to 4,000 miles and used additives like Slick 50 and Duralube and I sold the car at 400,000 miles and it still ran like a top. I sold it for $400 to a guy and I use to have an unusual rear window decal and my brother saw the car 3 years after I sold it and it was still on the road. The oil I used to use was Mobil 1. I changed the filter each time I changed it and I also changed the transmission fluid every 10 to 12,000 miles. Back in those days the mechanic used to give you the printout from the emissions machine and I had very little emissions, even in the 3 to 400,000 miles and the mechanic could not believe it. But it was true. I never raced a car though.
U way over mIntained that's why. My Dad is same altho not as drastic. Keeps his F150s to 300k mis an sells em. Every one.
You guys make the best fuel system cleaner. Only one that works when compared to 10other brands
Very informative video - thanks Drive! Good advertising too, I'll check these guys out.
what should i use in my honda gearbox with clutch type LSD in it? since the diff and gearbox share same fluid
that was a great explanation, I've been wondering what to do with my 200k mile race car now I have ideas! thanks ,A+
I put Mt90 in my 86 manual 4 runner. It got rid of most of the notchiness. Shifts are wayyyy smoother and shifts faster. Worth the high cost.