Thank you Guy for showing your upgrades they are wonderful. You have great lighting, background, and camera resolution, imho. As a comfort, I think it was the man at Inheritance Machining who said it takes about 30 hours to produce one of his videos.
Much appreciated! My videos take me 10-15 hour to produce - I guess I'm pretty efficient, and Brandon's projects tend to be much more complex and time consuming. I admire him and Quinn (BlondiHacks) a lot.
Thanks for the video & inspiration. I bought a mill last year which had a 2 axis DRO on the X & Y & a small mag scale reader like the yours on the Z. I saw a great price on Ali Ex on a 3 axis of the same brand on my mill & got it w/ the intent of moving the 2 axis to my lathe. Figured the mag reader would go in spare parts, but now I see I might be able to put it to use on the lathe's tail stock. 'Might' is the operant word, tho, since my lathe is a hopped up Sherline I built. I'm gonna have even less real estate to work w/ than you did! You're a braver man than I splicing that USB cable; I've nothing but headaches & failures attempting to splice those small cables. I get 'em done, have 0 ohm readings, correct connections, color-wise, all looks good, then the dang thing has problems when powered up. I finally gave up trying & figure out a way to manage a coil of excess cable, instead. But, seeing a USB plug inside, this may be the perfect place for 1 of the (worthless), 6" USB charge cable which seem to be packed w/ every rechargable device I buy, nowadays. Re: tailstock lock lever hitting DRO Thicker washer might fix the prob by indexing the handle CCW a bit. I keep flat pieces of clam shell plastic around for fitting something like that. There's enough vatiation in thickness from different packages to have a decent range of sizes. Stamp out a few washers & shim 'er up. In low torque situations, the plastic may be all you need; it's plenty tough. GeoD Oh, yeah, when I end up w/ a "oooh, that's too close to the edge" situations, I go the belt & suspenders route & add some adhesive to the fastener joint to eliminate stress which will get the fastener started towards coming loose. I use the belt & suspenders approach to most fastener joints when I get sub 6-xx & even w/ 6-xx, sometimes. It's too easy to over torque that little stuff & I find lock washers can't get the job alone, in many situations. I keep some 60 sec epoxy, (HF), around for this, as well as a good urethane adhesive. Plus, I'm a big fan of the black tire repair isocryanate RV'rs use to repair rubber tires. It's thick & seems to have some resilience std iso doesn't have. Happy fixing & making...
As an experienced electrical engineer, I take for granted my skills (and good eye sight) when splicing cables. Thanks for your suggestion of adding a washer to my tail stock lever. I found a replacement washer that is about .002" thicker in my bin and that worked great! Good luck moving that mag scale over to your tail stock.
I think you got into trouble with the first attempt at making the quill clamp when you took it out of the vise and flipped it over without also rotating it 180 deg in the ground plane. It's important to always keep your part reference edge and vise reference edge in contact after a part flip. Nice upgrades...
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff My primary concerns are the cables, the mounting of the components, and the overall delicate nature of the setup. It's why I ditched the idea. Although you can always devise some kind of cable management, but it's always trailing around during use. It's too easy for it to get tangled or caught around something. The stickout of the reader and scale rail is quite obstructive. You have to work around it to make sure it isn't damaged by carelessly knock it with a hand or tool. The DRO setup while very useful for precision, requires too much vigilance during use. It's attention I don't want to divert away from operating the machine.
@@bobweiram6321 Thanks for your thoughts Bob. I don't feel that this is delicate or obtrusive, but see that it could be in some situations. As you saw I shortened the cable, so that was a good fix for the loose cable. Since then I have found a short right angled cable adapter (thanks to @thoughtstream9591) that will dress the cable out to the back away from the work area.
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff I wondered why you installed the reader on the front side rather than the back side of the tailstock? Seems it would be more out of sight. Btw, there are bluetooth readers available. Little Machine shop sells one, but they're a bit pricey.
Thank you Guy for showing your upgrades they are wonderful. You have great lighting, background, and camera resolution, imho. As a comfort, I think it was the man at Inheritance Machining who said it takes about 30 hours to produce one of his videos.
Much appreciated! My videos take me 10-15 hour to produce - I guess I'm pretty efficient, and Brandon's projects tend to be much more complex and time consuming. I admire him and Quinn (BlondiHacks) a lot.
Just a thought watching you with the tailstock handle. They make USB cords with right angle connectors that would give the handle enough clearance.
Oh yes, I hadn't thought of that. Thanks. I'll look into it!
Thanks for the video & inspiration. I bought a mill last year which had a 2 axis DRO on the X & Y & a small mag scale reader like the yours on the Z.
I saw a great price on Ali Ex on a 3 axis of the same brand on my mill & got it w/ the intent of moving the 2 axis to my lathe.
Figured the mag reader would go in spare parts, but now I see I might be able to put it to use on the lathe's tail stock. 'Might' is the operant word, tho, since my lathe is a hopped up Sherline I built. I'm gonna have even less real estate to work w/ than you did!
You're a braver man than I splicing that USB cable; I've nothing but headaches & failures attempting to splice those small cables.
I get 'em done, have 0 ohm readings, correct connections, color-wise, all looks good, then the dang thing has problems when powered up. I finally gave up trying & figure out a way to manage a coil of excess cable, instead.
But, seeing a USB plug inside, this may be the perfect place for 1 of the (worthless), 6" USB charge cable which seem to be packed w/ every rechargable device I buy, nowadays.
Re: tailstock lock lever hitting DRO
Thicker washer might fix the prob by indexing the handle CCW a bit. I keep flat pieces of clam shell plastic around for fitting something like that. There's enough vatiation in thickness from different packages to have a decent range of sizes. Stamp out a few washers & shim 'er up. In low torque situations, the plastic may be all you need; it's plenty tough.
GeoD
Oh, yeah, when I end up w/ a "oooh, that's too close to the edge" situations, I go the belt & suspenders route & add some adhesive to the fastener joint to eliminate stress which will get the fastener started towards coming loose.
I use the belt & suspenders approach to most fastener joints when I get sub 6-xx & even w/ 6-xx, sometimes. It's too easy to over torque that little stuff & I find lock washers can't get the job alone, in many situations.
I keep some 60 sec epoxy, (HF), around for this, as well as a good urethane adhesive. Plus, I'm a big fan of the black tire repair isocryanate RV'rs use to repair rubber tires. It's thick & seems to have some resilience std iso doesn't have.
Happy fixing & making...
As an experienced electrical engineer, I take for granted my skills (and good eye sight) when splicing cables.
Thanks for your suggestion of adding a washer to my tail stock lever. I found a replacement washer that is about .002" thicker in my bin and that worked great!
Good luck moving that mag scale over to your tail stock.
nice, wanted to upgrade my dads mini lathe for him. he wanted a readout like he had at work before he retired.
Sounds like you have a Christmas gift planned for your dad. I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out.
I think you got into trouble with the first attempt at making the quill clamp when you took it out of the vise and flipped it over without also rotating it 180 deg in the ground plane. It's important to always keep your part reference edge and vise reference edge in contact after a part flip. Nice upgrades...
Yes, I think you're right. I need to be more careful.
Nice! I have the same DRO set I purchased years ago. I was going to install it on my planer, but ruled against it.
Well it worked out pretty well for me as you can see. Not a difficult installation really.
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff My primary concerns are the cables, the mounting of the components, and the overall delicate nature of the setup. It's why I ditched the idea. Although you can always devise some kind of cable management, but it's always trailing around during use. It's too easy for it to get tangled or caught around something. The stickout of the reader and scale rail is quite obstructive. You have to work around it to make sure it isn't damaged by carelessly knock it with a hand or tool. The DRO setup while very useful for precision, requires too much vigilance during use. It's attention I don't want to divert away from operating the machine.
@@bobweiram6321 Thanks for your thoughts Bob. I don't feel that this is delicate or obtrusive, but see that it could be in some situations. As you saw I shortened the cable, so that was a good fix for the loose cable. Since then I have found a short right angled cable adapter (thanks to @thoughtstream9591) that will dress the cable out to the back away from the work area.
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff I wondered why you installed the reader on the front side rather than the back side of the tailstock? Seems it would be more out of sight. Btw, there are bluetooth readers available. Little Machine shop sells one, but they're a bit pricey.
@@bobweiram6321 Huh, now why didn't I think of putting that on the backside? 🤔