Mini Lathe Setup - Do this first! - Rob's Garage
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- Опубликовано: 1 сен 2023
- 15 minutes of video to save you time if you're trying to setup your new mini lathe. Don't waste time on leveling or tailstock adjustment until you do this.
This may be obvious to some, but for a beginner it's easy to get things in the wrong order when following everyone's RUclips videos... so here's another video to set it straight. 
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Just waiting for mine to be delivered soon I'm sure I'll be watching this and more of your videos to come. thank you.
Hurrah! That will be fun :) This video above is important. Some of my earlier ones, where I did a long strip down over about 6-7 episodes is not as vital, but would still have some details you might want to see (just know that this video above is more important at first). I also have a recent one on feeds and speeds, which is very good in my opinion. Watch that after you've had it a few weeks. And there's also a video I made on beginner accessories which is good. Shortly I'm going to be doing a 'Learnings After the 1st year" video which will be an updated one about accessories I've actually used. There's a ton of detail to learn. Let me know how you get and and if you have any issues or questions.
Good explanation thanks 🙏🏼
I've got the same lathe, I love it. Just put 2 glass scales and a dro on it and it works great. Cuts SS real nice. Nice vid👍👌🇦🇺
Thanks for the comments. I'd be keen to know what sort of DRO you got for it. Did you get the one from Optimum that is made to fit or something fancier? I think the Optimum one uses magnetic strips so I'm guessing you got something else. I'm definitely keen on a DRO, but probably on the mill before the lathe. I seem to cope with the lathe's dials better than on the mill.
@@Ducati900SS I did both the bf16 with 3 axis, and the tu2004 with 2. They were kits off ebay, $280-350. Lcd dro screens and cheap glass scales, not vevor, but the same type. The optimum mag strips are cheap and you can cut a 1.5M strip into correct lengths, but the read heads are $80 each, and the dro is $400. Can get nock off ones too. Warco has the same style in UK. For the mill, the lcd is nice, full layout for hole patterns etc. 2 axis was $279 for the kit, with only x and y on the dro. Same thing for the 3 axis, just add one extra scale and x,y and z screen. It was a tight fit on the lathe, magnetic would fit nice, there's machined recesses all over both machines for the mag strip's and bolt holes for the read heads, it would be easier, but $$$. If you've got an open Email you share, I'll send pics if your interested👍👌🇦🇺
@@adhawk5632 Yes, I'd like to get one with the LCD display, but a dedicated one, not a separate Android tablet. I had noticed that the Optimum DRO's tracks and readers are very expensive, and also that the unit doesn't do a heck of a lot other than read distance. So those eBay DRO's are much more attractive but it's such a complicated purchase, I'm gathering any info I can before I jump in. Definitely keen to see what you did - If you click to my channel and then click the About tab, there's a button that will show an email address. That gets forwarded to my proper email.
@@Ducati900SS it might be me, but my email wouldn't add the link to my address book.
@@adhawk5632 Take it from here, but take out the spaces I've put in around the @ symbol: robsworkshop @ outlook.com
hia rob can you explain how to get a correct center hole in your test bar using a milling cutter. i dont really understand how to do it. i understand the rest of the video on setting up the lathe. Just got a warco wm180 lathe secondhand and need to set it up. Thanks for all the vids very helpful when understanding this type of machine. Take care mate
Hi, yes let me try and explain what I was doing. Imagine a tub of ice cream spinning on an old turntable. Then you poke a spoon into it and hold it there. No matter where you poke the spoon, you will scoop out a circle of ice cream that will be exactly centered on the axis of the turn table. I wasn't looking for the center of the rod. Rather, I wanted to cut a circle that was located precisely around that center. If you're familiar with cutting a hole with a boring bar on the lathe, that is the same idea. It cuts the edge of the hole rather than the centre. I believe a 2 flute end mill is better than a drill for the task because the drill tries to centre itself on the tip, whereas the flat-ended mill just starts cutting where it touches down. The side of the end mill that is furthest away from the centre will cut the edge of the hole. The other side won't even get to make a cut. I've even had this happen in one of my videos here with a crooked drill bit. Note that this is not a standard procedure and people may differ with my view on this. However, with very light cuts on the end of the aluminium rod, I got the result I wanted. I expect that if one made a heavy and fast cut, the end mill would also try to centre itself along the way, simply because the centre is the point with the least resistance.
Note that this video shows two important steps. First, testing whether your lathe cuts a taper and second, aligning the tailstock afterwards. I made this video because I didn't get that right in my strip-down and rebuild videos. Checking for the taper should be your first step, followed by 'leveling' which may in fact be 'twisting' your bed to fix the taper. Once the taper is sorted, then worry about the tail stock. If you have trouble with the method I showed, you can always try other methods such as putting dead centers in the spindle taper and tailstock tapers and just get them pointing at each other. That can be easier to do and may be sufficient for what you're doing, at least to begin with. I'm often overly concerned with getting things perfect when others are fine without it and I don't want to send you on a goose chase. Let me know how you get on with it. The Warco is very similar to this lathe so it should be nice to use.
Regarding adjustments.. the spindle housing is bolted to the bed with 4x M8x25 bolts.. if the spindle isn't aligned to the bed this can be adjusted there - I've seen owners of others lathes having to do that. The question naturally becomes - where one is supposed to start to straighten it all out, hehe.
There is a guy in Texas (Joe Pie) who also has got some videos up on lathe alignment procedures that are worth watching IMHO.
Yeah it'd be a very difficult job to align it there. Best thing to do is check if it's cutting a taper, it it is, check if you can twist it out, and if not, take the lathe back to the store. With the lathe, chances are it'll be good or at least tweakable as in this video. I've still got mine completely stock after the tests here.
I think I know three others now who have purchased this model and have been in touch. The main problem two of them have had with theirs is the saddle not sitting completely tight on the ways. When loose, it might rock slightly from one corner to the other..... you can feel a slight click/knock. Mine also has that very slightly but I've not done anything about it. The saddle locking screw gets rid of it entirely when needed e.g. for parting.
I need to get Joe Pie back in my feed. I haven't seen his channel for a while now. He's a good teacher type.
@@Ducati900SS
Thanks again for the heads-up, will have to check mine when I get it - but I can't take it apart right away again - like the HM46B.. 😧
Hello Rob. Regarding a mini lathe, I've become more and more curious. Although I don't have money do buy one right now, and I honestly don't know what to make with it, it feels like a tool I should save for. Other than random repairs, Go-Karts and Cross-Karts are what interest me most.
Back in school, woodshop was my favorite class. The wood lathe in particular was one of the tools I respected most. I LOVED that tool but, It's a good reminder of how dangerous lathes can be when your tools catch and wrack your wrists. Now that I've been checking out a bunch of metal lathe videos, it has reminded me of that.
Anywho, sorry for the novel but I do have a few questions.
Do those same tool catches or kickbacks happen with metal lathes? I image not since you don't physically hold the tools.
One more as well. When getting new expensive tools, I try to consider ways to make the tool pay for itself. As someone with zero metal lathe skills, is that a possibility?
thanks for you time.
Hi James. I'm new to the hobby myself, but can certainly help with what I know and have learned. Safety is really in the hands of the operator, rather than the tool. With any tool you need to have an attitude of safety first.. a bit like being a defensive driver. A case in point is that I did not intend to remove the clear safety shields from both the mill and the lathe but eventually I did because they are always in the way. But in their place, I purchased a helmet with a safety visor and wear that instead when I judge something to be risky. Other tips are to stay out of the line of fire.. like when using a grinder, don't put your self in line with the wheel... and also don't take the covers off. With the lathe, I'm aware that the fast moving metal chuck is unforgiving. Hair, clothing, gloves, bracelets and watches.. anything can get caught and be a serious problem. That's also why I have not removed the chuck guard and don't plan on ever removing it. I agree with your sense that the wood lathes seem more dangerous by way of how they are operated. Not just the tools, but also the workpiece holding seem more easy to get wrong.. but again, it's down to having a safety attitude. In my workshop. I'm more scared of my bench grinder and my mains powered handheld grinder than I am of the mill and the lathe. My welder is also on the scary list as I haven't' yet started using it.. that's a project for this summer and I'm already watching and reading lots of content about welding. You're also correct that the tools dont' really jump or catch in the same way, but they could.. you might for example let the auto-feed run the cutting tool into the chuck by mistake.. I wouldn't want to be standing around if I did that.
One point too about both the lathe and the mill is that people always say it will cost you twice the price again just to get the tools you need to start using them. And those people are right. The other aspect is getting materials to work with. Where I live it has not been easy to find small and affordable amounts of metal. It would be great if I knew someone who worked in an engineering shop who could help me with small bits and pieces.. so if you have someone like that then it's easier.
As for making money off a lathe. For your go kart hobby it would definitely be handy because you can easily make spacers and fasteners on demand, that you might not otherwise be able to buy. But for making money... The kinds of things one can make on a small lathe are the kinds of things that people expect to pay nothing for. I find myself spending hours and hours making something that may be unique, but would only cost 5 bucks if it were actually manufactured somewhere. Most people use them for hobby work on cars and bikes and boats and models. So, honestly, being an engineer is a job, but I don't think owning a minilathe is a job. Let me know how you get on with things.
@@Ducati900SS wow! thank you for the detailed reply.
The examples you gave sparked some possible uses; Bushings, HDPE spacers, bearing retainer groves. You had put it into perfect perspective, however. I can definitely see the uses in a hobbyist prospective. Making those one off pieces to get the project done ect. It truly looks like a lot of fun.
It's funny you mention the welder and grinder. I had an irrational fear of welding. Having a healthy respect is important. My first weld bead had me sweating beads! And after a few hours all those fears went away. You still won't find me welding in the rain though!
The grinder is a different story. Safety is absolutely paramount to me, especially my eyes. I wear glasses so I gotta protect what I have left. When I was much younger I was using an angle grinder, set it down and as I moved my hand away, my index finger just barley nicked the cutting edge. In less than a blink of an eye, I was cut to the bone. Since then, grinders are scary as heck.. folks probably think I'm overboard when I'm out there in three layers of PPE. It makes me feel safe.
Nonetheless, I'm thankful you gave me much to think about. Primarily that the mini-lathe should be considered more a quality of life feature rather than a must have. Replacing those aforementioned parts on the fly would be wicked cool and while some parts might be expensive, none would compare to the cost of the lathe plus the required tooling and accessories. Those didn't even cross my mind when considering a lathe. Much like the air compressor, I love it but useless on it's own.
Thank you again for the detailed reply. Very nice of you.
Good stuff, glad it helped. Stay in touch and let me know how you get on.. the seed is planted heh @@StoryOfJames.
I would start to protect the ways between the chuck and the saddle like the other 'gurus' do.. Stefan uses leather (cuts dry) while Robin uses some rubberized textile (uses flood coolant). All those fine debris caught up in the felt of the chipguards will wear that area over time and then the whole bed needs to be ground straight again.
Yes I have considered various options for covering the ways and if I can come up with something novel and effective I'll probably do it. But otherwise my mitigation for this is just keeping it clean. I go over all my tools carefully after every project and often even partway through. It's just not an industrial situation here in my garage. This all comes from when I started my working life in a photographic darkroom and later as a photographic technician, and everything had to be kept absolutely spotless all the time. I know there are some viewers who don't like my workshop because of this but it can't be helped :)
@@Ducati900SS
Just stumbled over this video from 2 yrs ago: 'Essential MINI Lathe Upgrades' by 'Machining with Joe'. Its a Warco WM180, looks like the TU2004v, just in green. He's got a solid tool post and way cover. No idea why he didn't go the extra mile and added some electronics to the external drive of the leadscrew to turn it into an electronic lead screw though.. no more gear changes, ever.
Yes, I watched all of his ones (and a hundred others). Most people always do exactly the same thing so there isn't much variation in them. But yes, the Warco 180 is very similar to the Optimum. In my very first video about this lathe "Mini Lathe Overview - Optimum TU 2004v vs Sieg Models" I mentioned a few other brands that are basically the same. That's a good and still accurate video to watch and I think I already mentioned it in another comment. There's Warco, Excel and Chester in the UK that all sell models like this under their own brands. But they may also mix the odd Sieg model in there.
I've purchased a couple of bits for my lathe from Warco. It's the only place I could get the correct backing plate for it... cheap too, but expensive shipping for me. Definitely browse their site and Chester Hobby Store to see what they have."
Regarding the tool post - I'm trying to avoid the whole solid tool post thing everyone does. I've definitely had to tighten mine up a bit because it's not really long enough to give a lot of cutting range without losing grip in the dovetails. Other options are to add more gib screws, or maybe some sort of clamp mechanism like a mountain bike wheel axle clamp to lock it up on demand. But for now I'm working with tighter screws.
I should mention one point I made in that first lathe video I did. It was that I didn't buy a Sieg because I didn't want to spend all my time fixing it to make it usable (as I had noticed everyone else was doing on RUclips). Many of the Optimum's out-of-the-box features let one avoid doing that. Even the hardened ways help keep those in much better shape of time. Those are some of the things I get into in that video.
@@Ducati900SS
I have to admit I let most of that particular video run quietly in the background while programming 🥴😳🤭
As for the toolpost.. I ordered a 250-000 and 7x 001, 2x 002 and 1x 004 (for drilling with the saddle). Too bad there is no direct SP200 parting blade holder for the 250-000 series.. will have to make them after all as I don't like the overhang/lever those interfaces cause that are available as esp for parting it needs to be as rigid as possible.
In that area I wonder why there is no SPBx19 insert holder available - only H&F have them from NCIH or so. SPBx26 and SPBx32 are everywhere by comparison.
Same... one of the things on my list of projects is to make a gadget to hold a parting blade as far inside the holder as possible, just to reduce overhang as much as possible. Parting is a lot better now than in these videos where I was still figuring it out.
Hey rob how long was your test bar
Hi Les, the one made by Garvin there in the video is 34cm total and about 25cm stick-out from the spindle. I think it's pretty good gadget for adjusting the tailstock after ensuring the lathe cuts straight.
Hey Rob, yer I made one for my lathe as you showed, 22mm S/S @ 250 long , works great I'm still working on cross slide adjustment don't want to push the cast nut to far. I might need one of your Brass one's
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@@leslieclark2683 Yes that cross-slide nut is a bit of a worry! I also finally managed to get hold of some bronze if I need to make another one.