How a Solid Tool Post Mount changed my lathe

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  • Опубликовано: 26 ноя 2024
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Комментарии • 135

  • @Lumencraft-
    @Lumencraft- 8 месяцев назад +3

    The 6mm deep cut on that steel was certainly proof it works!

  • @PhilVandelay
    @PhilVandelay 10 месяцев назад +7

    Beautiful work! And I think the performance speaks for itself, probably the best mod you can do for a small lathe

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  10 месяцев назад +1

      Hey Phil. That's true, it transforms the lathe! Next thing I need to consolidate the rigidity is a proper lathe stand!

  • @JesseSchoch
    @JesseSchoch Год назад +11

    nice result. I scraped the bottom of my solid tool post and amazingly it made it even more better. put an indicator on the right side of the cross slide to see how much it moves. you may be surprised how much it lifts under load.

    • @TheMetalButcher
      @TheMetalButcher 9 месяцев назад

      The cross slide likely has horrible contact on the dovetail, which means it does okay with a down and and right force from the turning, but not well from the down and back force from parting.

  • @DULENSHK
    @DULENSHK 9 месяцев назад +5

    It is so crazy for 6mm cut on that small lathe, bro you really did a great job!

  • @rupunzel6299
    @rupunzel6299 Год назад +6

    Giving up the compound limits lathe capability for fine in-feeds, cutting tapers and etc. That compound is very useful.
    The original problem of chatter could be due to how the gibs/dovetails are fitted_scraped as a matched part. It is likely those what must be precision/accurate parts could be extremely ill fitted causing excessive movement under cutting load. Check this.
    Other possible problems could be due to how the compound/tool post is fitted to the base. There is usually a swivel base at the compound, that is another possible poor fitting area that should be looked into.

  • @Guds777
    @Guds777 Год назад +13

    The problem with these mini lathes are often only 2 bolts holding the cross slides. I did make it into 4 bolts and it helps alot...

    • @dittilio
      @dittilio Год назад +3

      Problem with these mini lathes is they always try to walk it in...

    • @lolzlarkin3059
      @lolzlarkin3059 Год назад +1

      ​@@dittiliodid you see that ludicrous display last night?

  • @jackfromthe60s
    @jackfromthe60s Год назад +6

    Nice work. I added a solid tool post mount to my lathe and it was a big improvement in rigidity.

  • @mg30ebay
    @mg30ebay Год назад +2

    Flat head cap screws are another nice way to eliminate a gap for chips. Your precision counterbores are pretty cool, though, and require less head OD clearance.

  • @steveforbes8287
    @steveforbes8287 Год назад +2

    I LIKE IT! This may help to solve some problems that I have with my older larger lathes, too.
    Thank you!

  • @wyliemacbean1157
    @wyliemacbean1157 11 месяцев назад +1

    Well I think you have done a great job. All machines have different parameters to work with and all machinists are different and have different ideas on what will and won't work and I think you got it just right for your lathe and your needs. I am impressed and you should be very proud of what you achieved. Also you have a very calm voice and have explained it very well. Congratulations

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  11 месяцев назад

      Oh, thanks. That's very kind. Thanks and have a happy new year!

  • @woodndrum303
    @woodndrum303 11 месяцев назад +1

    Good ideas, well explained and executed with attention to detail and accurate milling. Clear and relaxed voice over but a bit more explanation about the thought process of bringing the large new height block to tolerance might help us new to this game❗Great video Thanks

  • @Brute4rce1111
    @Brute4rce1111 4 месяца назад

    I've done this mod and it is night and day diffence in cut quality/material removal rate. I posted my video and got eaten alive by some of the comments. It really is an upgrade from the stupid topslide. Anyway, fantastic job on yours, it looks amazing!

  • @billgilbride7972
    @billgilbride7972 7 месяцев назад

    Fantastic implementation of Robins tool post. Your methodical approach was a good practice to hold by. Thanks!

  •  2 месяца назад

    That 6mm cut was really impressive!

  • @peterpan7903
    @peterpan7903 Год назад +9

    I have worked on a wide variety of lathes. If the guides of the top slide are set correctly and it does not stick out too far and is parallel to the bed, then there should not be any problems with stability on any lathe. If I set the top slide at an angle, as you can see at the very beginning of the video, and the guides are set too loosely, then it is logical that I will get vibrations.

    • @MJPilote
      @MJPilote Год назад +7

      All the table top lathes that have compound chatter with any meaningful cutting force no matter how its set up. I have tested many, and only with rigid toolpost they work. The compounds and fitting is not flat, by any standards. I’m a professional machinist with over 10 years of experience so I know how to run a machine and tooling.

    • @sblack48
      @sblack48 10 месяцев назад

      There clearance in any compound slide. There has to be. Also the attachment of the compound to the cross slide tends to be a weak pound as it has to allow rotation. For both these reasons a solid toolpost will be more rigid. Finally, if Robin Renzetti and Stefan Goetteswinter say it’s better, having done years of work both with and without this mod, then for me there’s no doubt.

    • @peterpan7903
      @peterpan7903 10 месяцев назад

      @@sblack48 I can only repeat that I have earned my living for decades by producing parts on various machines. I and the employees in my department have never had any problems with stability. But I understand that if you only do it as a hobby, the machines won't be as expensive and therefore less stable.

    • @sblack48
      @sblack48 10 месяцев назад +2

      @@peterpan7903 certainly the smaller machines are less rigid and will benefit more from this. Also it depends on what you are doing and how hard you push the machine. For straight forward turning it probably doesn’t matter. But when you try plunging with a wide form tool with full contact then the increased rigidity will be appreciated. Also consider that Robin did this mod on a hardinge hvl-h which is not exactly a flimsy hobby machine.

  • @christopherbill8537
    @christopherbill8537 9 месяцев назад

    "And now something stupid" is pretty much my battle cry in the shop. Nice project and video - thanks for posting!

  • @jeffreyhallam5517
    @jeffreyhallam5517 Год назад +2

    Looks great! I did a similar solid tool post. I too copied Phil Vandelay’s design. But I had to modify my tool post because I needed access to the follow rest and the overhang for getting closer to the faceplate put my cutting edge past the follow rest supports. I hated to do it but I was on a time crunch and didn’t have the materials to build another too post. If you want to spoil yourself make some land T-nuts with threaded holes at opposite ends for mounting hardware. It’s fewer parts to finic into place.

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  Год назад +2

      That's a good point that I didn't show in the video. The follow rest is indeed a compromise, I have to grind an hss tool to bring the cutting edge inline with the rest supports or slightly behind them. All my carbide tools cut past the supports as you described (but not by much). The steady rest on the other end is very good, I'm able to take a tool just about to crash. Cheers!

  • @mashrien
    @mashrien Год назад +10

    Anyone else get the sense that making a bushing/sleeve, or whole new bolt+shaft, for the tool-post hold-down shaft/bolt, to take up the slop between the post and shaft, would've probably taken care of these concerns just as well as all this other work?.. I mean maybe also the surface finishes between the compound and tool-post, but there was an awful lot of play in that post and shaft when he showed it.

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  Год назад +4

      It mighy have helped but in my case I think this was a better improvement. It's a matter of mass. The mass in the compound just isn't there and having a small compound locked with a single M3 screw is not the same. There are improvements to be done that would help, like scraping it to get tighter tolerances, making a new plate to hold it, drill and tap more locking screws... but in the end, I think the mass is just not there as well as there are too many mating parts. But hey, if you try that on your lathe, do let us know! 😉

    • @Thebowber
      @Thebowber Год назад

      I altered my compound slide to hold down in a similar fashion to a Boxford, this has worked very well and the compound is still available for normal use.

  • @jimbrideau5802
    @jimbrideau5802 Год назад +1

    You should be proud. Very nice work!

  • @warrenmaker798
    @warrenmaker798 Год назад

    Congrats, a superb video. I have the same problem on a much bigger lathe. I will follow your lead.

  • @jimsvideos7201
    @jimsvideos7201 Год назад +1

    For a next project, why not a carriage drill holder? Big chunk of material, use a drill and a boring head held in the spindle to put a holes in so they're aligned with the motion of the carriage. Personally I'd put in a plain hole for this ER8 collet chuck (for smaller drills) and an MT2 bore for taper-shank drills or a chuck.

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  Год назад +1

      Thanks for the suggestion. It might come in handy one day, but before that I have other stuff to finish! Cheers!

  • @Superwoodputtie
    @Superwoodputtie Год назад

    Dang dude, that's a really beautiful piece of tooling.

  • @tonisiqueira9543
    @tonisiqueira9543 Год назад +2

    Sim sem dúvidas nenhuma se tem um carro longitudinal bem ajustado no barramento esse porta ferramentas de suporte do castelo também bem fixado e zerado na transversal aí sim hein tem como fazer passes em milímetros e sangramento com mais precisão parabéns Belo gabarito de usinagem 🇧🇷🙏

  • @Mauri59g
    @Mauri59g Год назад +1

    Una lavorazione professionale, ottimo

  • @camillosteuss
    @camillosteuss Год назад +1

    A few things... One, you could check the center bore for the compound, and use that as a locating feature with a solid carbide pin(broken 12mm endmill seems to be what would do it in your case, i may be wrong in size, but you get my point). That would serve as the pivot point, and a centralizing feature... The toolpost could have a ``box way configuration`` and rely on as many flat surfaces as you would like, it could rely both on the faces and the t-slots, it could rely on the t-slots or t-slots and the rear face of the cross slide for angular reference...
    Now this doesnt apply to you, given the skinny ass mill which would not really appreciate the technique, but if you slap on a machined slab to the back of your mill, scraped-matched perfectly, you will be at a point where your mill wont bitch about the technique that follows... A flycutter is great, but what the fuck is an indexable shell mill other than a flycutter with too many teeth? Just pick the x inserts out of the facemill, leaving one in there... A facemill is often very heavy, and quite well balanced(unlike most flycutters, which i neednt explain what the benefits thereof are)... You could also if you are using a large(4in onwards dia) facemill, leave two inserts, 180 degrees apart, that would mass balance the facemill, and would give you two cutting edges to work with, which can be used either on a small part to allow you more speed of movement, having only one cutter do the work at given time, or you could use it on larger parts, to impart force via both inserts at the same time, as to theoretically keep the facemill under equal loads on both ends, thus forcing it to cut flat, if the head is perfectly trammed...
    Also, that second, thicker carbide drill seemed to be off... It may just be parallax sight, but it seemed to me to be offset by half a millimeter towards you, as if you accidentally leaned on the y handwheel and shifted the whole assembly a bit away from the column... I may be shooting out of my ass here, but that is what it looks like to me, hell, i think i even detected a slight bending in the thicker drill as it went in... I would try and check the bore with a carbide endmill shaft, as that wont bend, and if the hole is crooked, it will instantly tell you that shit had taken a path of its own...
    Its a lovely design, and i like it, im just writing down what i think i see, as i watch...
    When i get my shit together, and when i get my machines in order, i will film a video on this topic, as i too will appreciate a solid toolpost block on my baby lathe... The big girl lathe has a compound that is as heavy as your mill, so that needs no real changes... The lathe would benefit from it, but she is a skookum choocher of the old german style, the size of her parts - when precisely fitted - allow for ridiculous cuts... Like 13mm doc at 27m/min cutting speed, so slow infeed, but... 13 fucking mm??? Hello? What were the germans thinking back then... The rated horsepower of the cut in the manual is 9 horsepower, out of 11 that the motor has... And that is with the compound slide... So if she can run 13mm doc with a compound, i seriously doubt that my loving and gentle cuts will even be noticed by her majesty... Even in toolsteel, she wont even know she is running... Now that`s a regal lathe, equal to monarch lathes... But the baby lathe, well, lets say that a compound is either locked 99% of the time with gibs, or its used for those few cuts with appropriate tightness of the gibs, but yeah, i will likely make a very similar piece to yours, as the design is more than pleasing and functional...
    Also, i would lubricate those fasteners, either way oil or whatever grease you have at hand... Just for good measure... The tight spacing allows you flood the area with oil and have the bolts be absolutely rustproof for a good while... Grease would be even better, as it would not be easily blown out by air blasts or almost anything else...

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  Год назад +2

      I have just approved your comment, (youtube retained it for revision).
      Thanks for sharing your thoughts.
      Regarding the 6mm carbide drill, I just re-watched that part and I was surprised, it really looks off center! So I went downstairs and measured a 6mm carbide rod (blank) which slides nicely into the hole and measured the distance from that to a parallel resting against the machined corner of the tool post. There's 0.03mm difference. The video does seem to show more than that, I don't know why. I have pre-drilled with a 3mm first, not shown in the video. Could that first hole be off? I didn't move the table and was using R8 collets though... so that is strange. Anyway, the result seems fine and everything else was made around that, so wouldn't be a problem if it was off... but well spotted 😅 Thanks!

    • @camillosteuss
      @camillosteuss Год назад +1

      @@nbrworks
      Yeah, it seems to me as if the drills were not concentric to each other, the 3mm went in, made a hole, and the 6 mil didnt seem to kiss off from that hole perfectly... I thought i was just having parallax sight and focused on the carbide 6 mil drill, and i could see that i cant just be mad, the thing looked to be engaging on one side more, and as it went in, it seemed to ``bend`` a bit... Being carbide, it nearly is like an endmill in its rigidity and ability to correct a hole as it sees fit, but being a drill, and a 2 fluter, it just doesnt have that rigidity, even in carbide...
      I love the 3 flute carbide drills for that reason... Try them, they are near boring bar precise, have reamer grade surface finish, drill hard steel, self locate and self start(some dont, some are specifically ground to enlarge an existing hole and have a blunt nose-no point)... I first got one with my big lathe, and that drill had me in love from the instant i spun it in my hand and saw that im not barking mad - that thing actually has 3 flutes, and its a drill?! So yeah, a recommendation for those... Harder to grind, more complex, but immensely more rigid, and better in every way, except for their max speed of material removal, which logically suffers due to less space in the flutes...
      Also, lol on youtube comment revision... You can turn that off when you post videos if you want... Its more of a feature for political channels and such stuff where virulent hate and sewage of racism and other forms of shit are likely to appear en-masse...
      I know that my dictionary easily gets my comments flagged by such screening, even when it has 0 to do with any abject hate or sewage spewage of other sorts... Eh, what can you do... I have love for machines and foul mouth for everything else :P
      All the best and kindest regards!
      Steuss

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  Год назад

      Thanks for your advice Steuss, it's appreciated. Cheers!

  • @f.hababorbitz
    @f.hababorbitz Год назад

    I had major problem with parting operations with my 10x24 bench mill. I got a piece o 2" hot rolled steel large enough to bolt the lathe to. This made it rigid enough to not walk on the floor, as my problem was the whole lathe going into harmonic oscillations during parting and heavy feed or depth cuts. But a rigid tool post would make it better. I don't have a T-slot cross slide on either of my lathes, so I'm stuck mimicking the compound mount, not optimal or enough fasteners.

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  Год назад +1

      Thanks for sharing, I also have the lathe bolted to a 15mm hot rolled plate, but still have (or had, I don't know yet if that changed with the solid mount) some vibration from time to time, mostly turning larger stock away from the chuck. I think the next big improvement to be done is the lathe stand. I have mentioned that in other videos, my current stand is far from ideal. I already have the materials, but will need more time to design it 😉

    • @martinconnelly1473
      @martinconnelly1473 Год назад

      I added a piece of aluminium tooling plate to the top of my cross slide after I milled some T slots in it. It is held down by a number of cap screws and then there is a small riser block between it and the quick change tool post. I like the idea of the corner being held tight to stop the tooling from rotating under cutting forces. I may change the riser block so I can do this.

  • @rallymax2
    @rallymax2 Год назад

    So much better! More motivation - I need to copy Robin’s for my Hardinge.

  • @joergengeerds360
    @joergengeerds360 Год назад

    looks great. you have enough material to make a second STP, to have other tooling (i.e. knurling tool) right there without having to change tools

  • @Arthur-ue5vz
    @Arthur-ue5vz 8 месяцев назад

    I notice that virtually no one uses a self protecting cutoff tool holder.
    It has a slot to allow the tool tip to move away from the cut if it begins to dig in too deeply.
    Maybe that just isn't a problem with modern cutoff tools?

  • @duncanmarks1590
    @duncanmarks1590 Год назад

    Hi, a well thought out and implemented modification, thank you. bye

  • @gworx-247
    @gworx-247 Год назад

    Great! ....6mm! ...what a improvement! 👍 like your work...looking forward to do so at my lathe

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  Год назад +1

      Thanks, yeah that was pushing it a bit too far, bit the lathe didn't complain!

  • @NagashiChidorii
    @NagashiChidorii 10 месяцев назад

    Man this is awesome what you did but i dont have a milling to do all that and i really need to taper for the work im doing.

  • @fhe3220
    @fhe3220 Год назад

    I put small c clamp on compound when partin off. 10"grizzly.

  • @craigtreleaven7560
    @craigtreleaven7560 Год назад

    Wow, that is a big improvement. Now I'm not sure if I want to go with just an improved clamp for the compound or all the way to a solid replacement for the compound?!? Decisions, decisions...

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  Год назад

      Thanks. Maybe you can start with the compound clamp upgrade and then if you feel it's not enough you can make a solid mount. Win/win? ☺️

  • @watcherwatchmen7785
    @watcherwatchmen7785 5 месяцев назад

    I'm thinking of doing this for my lathe. The only drawback that I could think of is for threading. With this set up you'd have to cut both sides of the thread each pass, which puts a lot more stress on the tool. Have you had any problems cutting threads with HSS threading tools, or do you do all your threading with carbide?

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  5 месяцев назад

      Hi. I normally use carbide tools for threading, yes. But I don't do much threading on the lathe, at least until now. The solid mount is quick to replace (I've done that a lot to cut angles) but changing the gears takes more time. I've been thinking about an electronic leadscrew conversion, which should fix that, but I didn't move past that (thinking).
      But back to your question: replacing the solid mount with the compound takes a little bit of time but it's doable. Mine takes no longer than 3-4 minutes. And you can always go back if you think it was a bad move. Thanks

  • @shakdidagalimal
    @shakdidagalimal Год назад

    This is next level stuff trying to insure a solid mounting. Oooh.. 13:44 I see it has the shishing sound of solidity in the cut. Tremendous. Mine just squeals and my tailstock does some weird "notching movements" when I'm turning it in to drill. I have no idea on the second issue. 10" WW2 model
    15:45 Wow that's taking chunkage.

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  Год назад +1

      Thanks. Have you checked if your spindle bearings are good (and tight)?

    • @shakdidagalimal
      @shakdidagalimal Год назад

      @@nbrworks Yes, what it does is grabs like it is cogged in the tailstock. It's the amount I move the handle. I have not taken apart the tailstock. I'd say it does some sort of grab thing every 2-5 degrees of turning the tailstock handle. So now since you made me think about it, it's probably internal to the tailsock.

  • @tvalmeida
    @tvalmeida Год назад

    Great work! Nicely made!

  • @paulwomack5866
    @paulwomack5866 Год назад

    Nicely made. But you've made it so you can't change the angle the tool is presented to the work, which seems very restrictive - what were your reasons for this?

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  Год назад

      Yes, it needs to stay put against rotation. With this change I might be taking heavier cuts sometimes and don't want to rely on the stud alone.

  • @woosier1
    @woosier1 Год назад

    Beautiful design

  • @paulconrod4504
    @paulconrod4504 4 месяца назад

    Very nicely done

  • @adhawk5632
    @adhawk5632 Год назад

    I loved all the vids you mentioned, i cant wait to do this to my mini lathe👍👌🇦🇺

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  Год назад +1

      Well worth it 🙂

  • @qwertyui90qwertyui90
    @qwertyui90qwertyui90 8 месяцев назад

    what rpm do you use when you do parting please with each material please with the carbide insert tool

  • @afryhover
    @afryhover 11 месяцев назад

    Excellent work, well done 👍👍

  • @onepairofhands
    @onepairofhands Год назад

    Great machining sir

  • @mike9500
    @mike9500 3 месяца назад

    where do you guys get your cast iron? around here it is crazy exensive!

  • @TheMetalButcher
    @TheMetalButcher 9 месяцев назад

    Looks like you added one or two R's of machining.

  • @fireblade639
    @fireblade639 Год назад +2

    That Mill is not tramed, your fly cutter is using one side only, when tramed the marks aré crisscross pattern...

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  Год назад

      Hi, thanks for your comment. If the head was tilted there wouldn't be a back cut, the cutter would just be going over the surface already cut. You can see the back cut is happening, it's taking "no material" but leaves the finish. Also on the surface plate there's no evidence of a concave cut which should happen with an out of tram head. Thanks

  • @Tome4kkkk
    @Tome4kkkk 4 месяца назад

    05:45 Could you please post a link to the exact video at Robin's channel?

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  4 месяца назад +1

      Have a look at the description of this video. It's there.

  • @steveman1982
    @steveman1982 Год назад

    Wow! My lathe is also from HBM, a tad bigger at 290x750, but no way it would cope with such a DOC in steel.

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  Год назад

      Hi Steve! That's interesting (I have no other lathe to compare). Mine is a 250x550. If it helps understanding why it might be able to make such cut, I have taken it apart and rebuilt it. I haven't change much on the lathe, more like a clean up, small improvements and make sure clearances were tight. I added a 15mm steel bar underneath it - that made it feel more stiff. The solid tool post mount finishes it off. (I have videos of the rebuild if you're interested). Having said that, the stand is really bad and the whole thing shakes a lot, you can see that in some of the clips. Making a good stand is on the to do list. That should even make things more solid! Cheers

  • @EngineeringNibbles
    @EngineeringNibbles 9 месяцев назад

    Hi! Love the videos, where do you purchase your parts? Surface plates, toolpost, pins, cold blue, etc!

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  9 месяцев назад

      Thanks! My surface plate came from Chronos UK, it's a Dasqua plate. I have some Dasqua tools and most of them are very good. The toolpost was from arceurotrade, also in the UK, but I've bought a bunch of cheap AXA toolholders from Amazon. They are not as good as those from Arc. I use the cheap ones for the least used tools. Cold blue is from Birchwood Casey, super blue. That's a bit expensive and results are kind of hit and miss. In fact I was looking the other day if there was a better alternative to dip the parts instead of brushing them, but didn't find any conclusion. I also got some machines from HBM, seems to be my source in the last years (no sponsorship or anything). All my measurement tools are probably second hand tools from ebay that I clean up and restore / calibrate. I don't think I have bought anything new from one of major brands (Mitutoyo, Starrett). I like very much the Fowler/NSK micrometers I show in the videos, they are very accurate, easy to maintain and well balanced to hold. Hope this helps!

  • @Tome4kkkk
    @Tome4kkkk 4 месяца назад

    Is this also before or after changing the spindle bearings?

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  4 месяца назад

      This is after rebuilding the lathe and changing the bearings. I didn't use the lathe before the rebuild.

  • @steveb936
    @steveb936 Год назад

    nice, a pleasure to watch, well done

  • @somebodyelse6673
    @somebodyelse6673 Год назад +1

    About the HSS parting tool walking out of the holder - was that a result of the flex in the original setup, so no longer a problem? Did you alter that parting tool holder? Nice job on the solid block, of course!

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  Год назад +1

      That's a very good question and something I didn't address in the video. From what I can tell, the tool holder has the adjustable jaw slightly angled and using a thin blade just makes it prone to slip. Also there's nothing holding the blade at the back and that doesn't help... but I see other people using this type of holder with no issues (apparently) so I'm assuming mine is "deffective". In the last tests the problem didn't happen because I was careful, had the blade sharp and didn't need to push it too hard... it worked but I don't think that's resolved by just having the solid mount alone. (I always set my part off tools square to avoid this type of problem.) Anyway, I might address the issues with the holder in the future or even make a new one, slightly different for a P-type blade I just got in the mail. 🤫😉

  • @Jimbo-t2h
    @Jimbo-t2h 5 месяцев назад

    Fantastic mate!

  • @spark2957
    @spark2957 5 месяцев назад

    hi thank you for amazing work can you tell me what milling machine you are using

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  5 месяцев назад

      Hi, it's from Amadeal. Model 25LV. If you are in the US, it's very similar to Precision Matthews PM-25MV.

    • @spark2957
      @spark2957 4 месяца назад

      ​@@nbrworks hello thankyou im not from us just want to build a milling machine and i'm researching for dimensions and features BC there's a lots of models off mills thank you for the info

  • @mr_voron
    @mr_voron Год назад

    I see a power feed for your mill table in your future.

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  Год назад +1

      Ah! You're so right about that! And not only the x-axis, I desperately need one for the z-axis 😄 and a DRO would help as well. Future projects!

  • @t0mn8r35
    @t0mn8r35 8 месяцев назад

    Nice project.

  • @tomeyssen9674
    @tomeyssen9674 Год назад

    Nice work!

  • @masheroz
    @masheroz Год назад

    What is the advantage of a 6 jaw chuck over 3 or 4?

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  Год назад +1

      There's not really an advantage of the 6 jaw over 3 or 4 (self centering) other than a better distributed grip... but that also depends on the quality of the chuck. A good 3 jaw is preferable over a bad 6 jaw. I happen to use a 6 jaw because it gives me better concentricity than my 3 jaw (and I got it cheap).
      Have in mind that most 4 jaw chucks you see on youtube videos are not self-centering, but have independent jaws. Those are normally used to get lower runout on parts (better than self-centering chucks) or to offset work as needed, or even turn square stock on the lathe. Hope this helps 🙂

    • @martinconnelly1473
      @martinconnelly1473 Год назад +1

      They are useful if you do a lot of thin walled parts, less distortion from the pressure of the jaws.

  • @Timb0NZ
    @Timb0NZ Год назад

    Why don't you just lock the gibs on the compound?

  • @CharlesBurkdoll
    @CharlesBurkdoll Год назад

    Nice work

  • @stringmanipulator
    @stringmanipulator Год назад

    very nice work

  • @robertoviana514
    @robertoviana514 9 месяцев назад

    Nice design

  • @nuxboxen
    @nuxboxen Год назад

    Nice video.... keep it up!

  • @rescobar8572
    @rescobar8572 Год назад

    BRAVO!! 👏🏼

  • @be007
    @be007 7 месяцев назад

    he, is that a hbm bf30 mill ?
    cheers
    ben

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  7 месяцев назад

      Hi Ben. No, it's from Amadeal, 25 model, I think it's smaller than the 30. Mine has a 700x180 table.

    • @be007
      @be007 7 месяцев назад +1

      @@nbrworks yes, you are right, your mill is rthe same as the hbm bf25, the all come from the same factory, only the different brands has different quality, but in basic they all all the same.

  • @axa.axa.
    @axa.axa. 8 месяцев назад +1

    that is a significantly feeble compound, would you bother to do this had you a more substantial machine?

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  8 месяцев назад

      I think it would depend. If I had no reason to complain with the compound, I guess I wouldn't do it. In my specific case it does make a difference and it is worth it. In my upcoming video I had to swap between the compound and the solid tool mount a couple of times and it's not a problem at all. 2 minutes job, not more than that. The registration features help a LOT to keep it easy and quick. Thanks!

  • @LetsRogerThat
    @LetsRogerThat Год назад

    Nice work. Gilles

  • @ParsMaker
    @ParsMaker Год назад

    nice job

  • @cdrive5757
    @cdrive5757 8 месяцев назад

    Nice work and totally worth the effort. But why stop there? Think about all that nasty overhang from your QTP! Put that thing on the shelf and dig out your old 4 way (Turret) Tool Post. They're versatile, more rigid and provide less than half the tool OVERHANG! I'll admit I'm old school and still, occasionally use my old Lantern (Armstrong) tool post. That old girl can get into places that neither of these two can.
    Wakodahatchee Chris

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  8 месяцев назад +1

      Hi Chris. I understand, but for the kind of stuff I do, changing tools with the quick change is nice too. I've kept the 4 way toolpost (I don't throw away stuff like that), so maybe one day I'll give it a go 🙂

  • @gravyblue
    @gravyblue 9 месяцев назад

    Subbed. I like your work

  • @ned_mograph5957
    @ned_mograph5957 Год назад

    very nice!

  • @hampopper3150
    @hampopper3150 Год назад +1

    Next a solid tool holder.

  • @jimsvideos7201
    @jimsvideos7201 Год назад

    Videos like this, of jobs like this, merit more subscribers and I'm sure they'll be here soon enough.

  • @Hendreh1
    @Hendreh1 Год назад +1

    Dude just take more feedrate and flush the Part with coolant . Then the old compound will also work for parting.

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  Год назад +1

      Ahhh flood coolant. There's so many things I have to do before that 😂

    • @Hendreh1
      @Hendreh1 Год назад +1

      ​@@nbrworks flood coolant is really a game changer in turning. Also with some real coolant mix like biowas or alumet

    • @nbrworks
      @nbrworks  Год назад +1

      Thanks, hope to get there one day!

  • @sheriffroylambifs894
    @sheriffroylambifs894 Год назад

    ~ SUPER ADVANCEMENT !!!
    ~

  • @markedevold1261
    @markedevold1261 Год назад

    👍

  • @matthewmoilanen787
    @matthewmoilanen787 10 месяцев назад

    I don't like telling someone how to do the things they post on the tube but would it have been easier and more tidy just make a new hold down bolt that fits the tool block. You wouldn't have to introduce a cut for a l- shaped corner holder and could rotate the tool post to whatever angle may be best for your needs

  • @woodfinchcrafts7267
    @woodfinchcrafts7267 Год назад

    What a waste of time. The only way to get a good parting off is *very* slow speed.

  • @bejay69
    @bejay69 7 месяцев назад

    So to improve your new Lathe you need to own a milling machine.

  • @jdm2651
    @jdm2651 Год назад

    Stopped watching when someone that is clearly European started using English units, probability to please American viewers.
    Even the good Americans use both systems in their videos, why you should be different. Beside, that Chinese lathe is fully metric.
    PS the reason why you broke cutoff tools and inserts is that these were the Chinese ones bought at the lowest possible price. Ask me how do I know.

  • @rickpalechuk4411
    @rickpalechuk4411 Год назад +1

    Stupid 🤔..... impressive 👏 👏 👌
    Cheers

  • @shumailriaz9204
    @shumailriaz9204 4 месяца назад

    Super cool 👍👍👍