Stumbled across this older video in my feed and I just want to praise the improvement in the quality of your videos and craftsmanship. RUclips is a great way to document progress. Well done, dude.
Very inspiring! You're very creative and you have the ability to make it happen - whatever you put your mind to. Thank you so much for the work required to make the videos! You're a big help to many! :)
Here's a hint, when you cut aluminium with a hacksaw or any kind of saw or cutoff wheel, Use wax on the blade. It stops the ali from sticking to the blade and makes it cut much faster.
@@marcoserra3798 any kind of wax, even candle wax is better than nothing at all. They do sell blade lube in stick form specifically for this. I've used old beeswax too.
And here I was fully expecting you to throw a dovetail cutter in the lathe and hold the uncut toolpost on the slide. After all, what's a lathe but an inverse mill?
Cheers. I did this simply because my will does not have the capabilities to produce the dovetails. I think lathes should be able to produce their own tool holder without the need for a mill.
I have been watching your videos for quite some time now. and I have noticed one small discrepancy, and that is you could do good by purchasing a band saw. such a the hand held type that DeWalt offers. or a small shop band saw. otherwise I believe your videos offer the best information. about the mini lathes and mini milling machines that I have found. thanks for the good information.
That is awesome man. I've been going back and forth about tool post for my lathe. After seeing your design I'm definitely going to try and make one like yrs, awesome job.
Thanks, I'm glad you enjoyed it. This design is great if you don't have a mill. I've used one for.6 months now without issue. My only strong recommendation would be to thread lock the bolts in place and if possible silver solder the wedge to the aluminium. Cheers
Great video, but after I watched your video about using HSS blanks to make your own HSS cutting tools as I was undecided about purchasing carbide tip indexed cutting tools for your mini lathe or making my own using the HSS as you referenced in your video saying the HSS tools were better for use with the mini-lathe than the carbide tipped. I purchased 10 sticks of 1/4" x 200mm HSS blanks from Amazon. And now I see you using the carbide-tipped cutting tools in this video, I am thinking I made a mistake and maybe should have purchased a set of carbide-tipped cutting tools.
G'day Jon. You did the right thing! Making your own HSS tools is perfect for a hobbyist. They are much much cheaper than inserts, give a far better finish, you can re sharpen them, and when you get to understand the tool geometry, clearance angles, point radius and chip breaking, there isn't any application you can't make a tool for. The only drawback, and the main reason you don't see hand ground HSS tooling in machine shops is because you can't machine with HSS as fast as you can with carbide inserts. Carbide can machine up to 12 times faster. In business, time is money. Also, they can machine very hard material and most can stand a lot of heat. For you and I, the satisfaction of making a part with cutting tools that we made from scratch with our own hands is priceless! I do have one carbide insert boring bar that I had to buy when I needed an accurate hole in a titanium part. Haven't used it since! Anyways, pay particular attention to your lathe speed and your tool feed rate, use some coolant as HSS can be ruined if it gets too hot and keep them sharp. If your HSS tool is ruined, it's only a couple of dollars for a whole new HSS bar which can be any tool you can imagine. Here in Australia, a pack of general purpose 22mm triangular carbide inserts from a budget machinery house is as $220AU where a 3-pack of HSS square bits, 3/8" x 3" is $12.00AU. I'll say no more! Stay safe and Merry Christmas to you & your family 🎄 Cheers, Michael 🇦🇺
great design. I'm wondering if that cam / off centered aluminium post is wearing out after frequent locking and unlocking = rubbing against that brass pegs. sorry for using guesswork terminology as I'm a total noob in the metal works.
Nice! I see chips flying all around the lathe motor vent slots! Yikes! So the strength and rigidity of the tool holder mount relies entirely on the two machine screws holding the dovetail slab onto the main housing? Perhaps that's enough for a mini lathe? I see them coming loose over time. Still amazing work overall!
Thanks for the feedback. I wouldn't be too concerned about the motor back there. It's an induction motor and doesn't mind a few chips here and there. It isn't an optimal method of powering the lathe, but it was a temporary fix that I haven't gotten around to changing. As for the screws, I know full well it isn't optimal, but I've used it for over half a year now with out issue. I didn't have a big mill at the time to machine the dovetails, so I made the best of what I had on hand. Cheers.
I admire your hacksaw work and determination to create your own tool posts. But there's no need to use carbide tools on ally. Hard steel is good enough, I also noticed you used maybe your highest chuck speed whilst that whacking great big drill bit was in your tailstock end, the smaller the bit the higher the speed needed, not vice versa.
Thanks for the feedback, I have really gone back and forth on my view on carbide. I used to really like it for aluminium but recently I've made the switch to hss. As for the high rpm, it is an issue that i am aware of but don't have a fix for. I power the lathe using an induction motor and with the gear ratios I currently have the lowest rpm I can achieve is 1000rpm. Not optimal for sure but I hope work around it in the future. Cheers
@@artisanmakes If you use an induction motor, slap a VFD (Variable Frequency Drive) onto it. As your mini lathe won't have much power anyway, they cost small money on Ebay. And you'll get the full torque on any rpm up to the nominal rpm of the motor...
Hello, I see your video, it is very interresting. But I was chock when you put your finger into the bore of the aluminium part. For your safety never, NEVER use your finger into a rotating hole. Always with a tool or something. Your finger can be cut. Thanks.
Cheers, no my proudest moment in retrospect. From memory (and looking at the old footage) the scotch brite was just to round the corner slightly. The camera angle makes it look worse, but I am only pushing down lightly on the top corner and my finger was not inside the bore. Certainly won't be doing that again.
Yeah G'day , you have hacksawed so much thick plate etc. Ever thought of a bandsaw? Maybe a portable hand held one? Or even one with a small footprint. It would be a most valuable tool for you to have. Ive seen you hacksaw through some big, long and thicc pieces of material. oh by the way, I really enjoy seeing you overcome some big problems and challenges. For the equipment you have you do some incredible work. I really liked the vice you made (haha which one you ask? ) well all of them I suppose lol the boring head was awesome to behold. The channel is fantastic, you make great video and include all your struggles and fails(work slipping in vice etc), I think its really only a fail if you dont learn something from it. Anywho I hope the channel keeps growing stong. Soon 100k subs!!!
I'd say no, because of the shock loads (interrupted cuts etc). It'd be better than alu for the toolpost block tho, especially with steel dovetails like this one.
Glad this vid was not in real time, as the ally block would of took most of the vid. LOL Anyway nice so see how you made it , good work :) and thank you for sharing,
Its so dumb, but there is just something about a stationary drill cutting into a spinning work piece that amuses me. Every other time I see a drill, its the drill moving.
G'day Art, very very clever use of the tools you have. Really impressive result man. If I can offer one quick filing tip...the best surface finish possible from a file is by draw filing. Hold the file (file itself, not the handle) in both hands like you were on a motorcycle , then push and pull the file over your surface until all file marks are gone. It will even negate the need for any more time to be spent on that surface. Cheers again and happy Christmas mate. Thank for all the entertainment and knowledge you provided this year. Stay safe & be happy. Michael 🤓🇦🇺🎁
Not if you're a C&G skilled tradie. I'm getting a bit old now at 71, but I still have a filing muscle on the top of my elbow. With that, the file stays flat no matter what.
Nice job, but I cringed when I saw you put your fingers in the hole of the spinning workpiece! That's a good way to lose a finger (or two) - also, never try to remove swarf with bare fingers while the job is spinning!
I just bought a QCTP and I bought a 7 piece 12mm bars like yours from banggood anyway are the carbide inserts any good cause I'm thinking about buying some extra inserts $9 for 10 I'm from Melbourne Vic
You'll get mixed responses depending on who you ask. I am personally really fond of carbide inserts, I think on hobby lathes they work fine and have the added benefit of not needing to be ground. I use hss more nowadays but I always keep carbide around. If the inserts have a sharper cutting angle I think it's work having some around, especially if they are affordable. Cheers.
Ooh Ooh, I spotted an chuck key where it should not be!.....ruclips.net/video/90Nu4l_7IIs/видео.html Nice job on the qctp. Using the steel for the dovetail is a great idea!
My only problem with this is that the 2 screws wont be able to take any kind of load or shock. The dovetail piece WILL shift, sooner or later. At the very least, roll pins or blind dowels.
Thankyou for the feedback. I have been using this tool post almost ever day for about 6 months now cutting steel and aluminium and I still have not run into any signs of wear. In a perfect world I would rather use different fasteners, but so far, zero issues. Cheers
Nice build, i have to sort out some new tool posts soon for my new mini lathe, but never thought of quick change for my big lathe as the height adjustment would be soooo helpful
I live in the UK and would die just to get hold of a piece of aluminium like you have. I do struggle over here trying to source material for the workshop. Cast iron is also a problem, only real chance I have is to go to a car scrap yard and purchase some brake callipers take them home and cast them into a suitable size. The price you are paying is for a used completed part rather than the lump of cast iron you want. Same for steel, aluminium etc. A scrap yard will not sell you ferrous or none-ferrous metals in any shape or form other than an intended part for a given purpose, then you have to somehow turn that into something that you want as a starting point to machine. So please forgive me when I say I am immensely jealous seeing you turn so much off that rectangle aluminium to achieve your finished parts. Thank you very much for sharing, I enjoyed the video, it was informative, and I only wish I could do the same. I have the talent, the training and the machinery but not the materials. A nice balanced video. So I envy you along with the Americans who also seem to be able to purchase almost anything. I am dreaming of making a fixture pallet for the mill from (1) aluminium and (2) cast iron but cant source the material I need.
I saw this and I was curious, so I checked, and I did find some online suppliers that didn't seem that expensive. I'm a little curious if there's some critical problem with them or something.
@@Taygetea I have not found any on line suppliers who sell that kind of metal, I would love to know where you were looking so that I may invest in some materials. Thanks for the reply.
@@Taygetea Thank you for your reply, 1st choice metals came up for me for Aluminium, somehow it did not come up on previous search results so thank you. I don't want to get into a too and fro with you and do thank you for your help but I still stand my my original post. I can not source 6 inch round bar and much much more. The choice here in the UK is not so good. Once again thank you.
@@bernieshort9774 I'm in the UK as well, and I sympathise. But I sometimes get offcuts from local engineering companies, which I've found to be good sources for me and other hobby machinists and model engineers. Then there's the specialist model engineers suppliers, and many suppliers on ebay. For the specific case of your 6 inch aluminium bar, and yes I realise that was but a single example, the second hit on ebay for "aluminium round bar 150mm" was from alum-droitwich, only £26 an inch (but it is 6" not metric) ;-) I didn't try it for that example, but I often search ebay for "alumiunium offcuts" and I've bought a lot that way.
@artisan I see your mini-lathe has a separate motor did you upgrade it yourself? and what did you change it to? I'm looking to upgrade my motor at some point to make mine more useable Cheers Dan
The other motor is just a motor that I took from the drill press that I use. I don't use the drill press too often so I was happy to take the motor from it and swap it in when I need it. I originally swapped it in when the motor control board blew in the lathe. There aren't many things to go wrong with the lathe, but the cheap motor controller is one, and since a replacement was $200 AUD at the time, the drill press motor was my temporary solution which I've made permanent. It was easy to make, just a 50mm diameter ring aluminum with a v - groove for the pulley that screws onto the end of the spindle that pokes out the end near the change gears. The drill press ran on a pulley set up so I didn't have to change anything on the motor. The big advantage that I gain from this set up is the lathe can comfortably sit at 2500 rpm. Most of what I do is cut acrylic, so the high rpm really suits me. With the old stock motor I was always afraid of going above 1500 due to the sound it made. Also since the motor is a fixed and constant rpm (around 1000) I get great torque when turning. It does have its disadvantages, such as it is a hassle to drop the rpm (but it can be done by using the other ratios on the pulley on the motor) and I can't use the leadscrew as it is a little fast, but I generally stick to using taps and dies. Hope this helps. Cheers.
@@artisanmakes awesome thanks for the reply do you know the power rating of the motor by any chance just looking for some more power . The shots I've seen you do with the parting tool makes me a little jealous. I can't manage at all with the parting tool motor doesn't have the grunt
@@eXtReMeMoDd3rZ You might be surprised that it is only a 390w or 1/2 hp motor from this drill press (www.ryobi.com.au/products/details/390w-bench-drill-press-rdp102l) I think the motor just has so much more grunt because its fixed speed. I have seen some of these mini lathes come with more powerful motors, up to 550 or 600w, but those done seem to come with a high and low gear selector. From my perspective, the motor I have now is adequate and a more powerful motor would require an upgrade to the carriage for extra rigidity to turn any faster.
@@artisanmakes Mate- the latest trend is to use the DC motor from a treadmill, with a cheap-as controller and a diode rectifier. Hunt up a free treadmill- people always throw them out when the board fails. then order a power controller board from Ebay, get a rectifier from Jaycar, a heatsink, a computer fan and some connectors and wire. Less than AU$100, and you have full variable control motor- I built this setup for my big wood lathe to turn bedposts- and it's awesome. The speeds attainable with a piece of 2100mmX150mm red ironbark are frightening!!! But you can dial it right down too- a cheap tachometer form ebay would let you dial in exactly what you want. Check out other videos on YT to see how to build this setup- believe me, you'll wonder how you did without it for so long... Actually- there's a topic for another video- show us how you convert your lathe...
If you use insert tools, 90% of the advantages of QC disappear. Inserts are always the same height, so you manufacture a 'shim' the correct thickness, CA it to the bottom of the tool holder, and forget about height ever again. My set of 7 toolholders only had two shims to consider- all the outside had the same insert height (of course- why would the manufacturer do otherwise) and the two boring tools had another. Other 'advantage' is registration. Well, all 4 of the 4 way are registered- only changes if you take them out. Unless you put a peg on that packer, then it registers every time- just like a QC. Given that a QC has one bolt to tighten, and a 4Way has two, the QC is twice as fast- after the first four. So the breakeven is eight. Different 8 of course- moving between the four installed is a simple spin. It then tips towards the 4way- where you can adopt many different angles to give different cuts, and then return to register. QCs need to be zeroed in- machinists take great care to align them with the ways. The 4way has a built in register. Want to use the occasional HSS bit? Make an adjustable carrier that fits into the 4way. Use the rocking block style as at 0:36. You have to re-adjust every time you grind- just as you have to on the QC.
Stumbled across this older video in my feed and I just want to praise the improvement in the quality of your videos and craftsmanship. RUclips is a great way to document progress. Well done, dude.
Very inspiring!
You're very creative and you have the ability to make it happen - whatever you put your mind to.
Thank you so much for the work required to make the videos!
You're a big help to many! :)
^7⅞67o
Here's a hint, when you cut aluminium with a hacksaw or any kind of saw or cutoff wheel, Use wax on the blade. It stops the ali from sticking to the blade and makes it cut much faster.
What kind of wax?tank you...
@@marcoserra3798 any kind of wax, even candle wax is better than nothing at all. They do sell blade lube in stick form specifically for this. I've used old beeswax too.
Antonmursid🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🇲🇨
Butter also works at a pinch and smells good if it gets hot (normally on angle grinders). Use the unsalted stuff.
Thank you!!! Awesome hint!!
And here I was fully expecting you to throw a dovetail cutter in the lathe and hold the uncut toolpost on the slide. After all, what's a lathe but an inverse mill?
I'm going to give this a go, but with steel. Thanks for the video. It really helps me visualize the steps needed to try this.
Great job, it is very impressive how you skillfully made this tool holder using only the most basic hand tools and a lathe!
Cheers. I did this simply because my will does not have the capabilities to produce the dovetails. I think lathes should be able to produce their own tool holder without the need for a mill.
Can you put a link to your design like drawings etc ?
Incredible! Great creative design, looks far more rigid than the cheap chinesium quick change on these 7x14 lathes haha
Very nice work, especially considering the amount of manual work and limited tooling which you have.👍👍👍
I have been watching your videos for quite some time now. and I have noticed one small discrepancy, and that is you could do good by purchasing a band saw. such a the hand held type that DeWalt offers. or a small shop band saw. otherwise I believe your videos offer the best information. about the mini lathes and mini milling machines that I have found. thanks for the good information.
Love the build. You're gonna get me in trouble with my wife :P
It would help if you would give us a SHORT description of what you are doing and trying to achieve.
Is the essentric critical to 1mm or would 2mm work? Can you post some CAD files or drawings?
Thank you damn i need a 4 jaw chuck
That is awesome man. I've been going back and forth about tool post for my lathe. After seeing your design I'm definitely going to try and make one like yrs, awesome job.
Thanks, I'm glad you enjoyed it. This design is great if you don't have a mill. I've used one for.6 months now without issue. My only strong recommendation would be to thread lock the bolts in place and if possible silver solder the wedge to the aluminium. Cheers
@@artisanmakes thread lock the ones holding the dove tails on?
Yes, apologies if that wasn't clear
Awesome job! You should probably shield your motor on your mini-lathe from errant chips.
You know what they say about girls who have shattered glass on their phones....I have no idea what shattered glass on a machinists calipers means..lol
Great video, but after I watched your video about using HSS blanks to make your own HSS cutting tools as I was undecided about purchasing carbide tip indexed cutting tools for your mini lathe or making my own using the HSS as you referenced in your video saying the HSS tools were better for use with the mini-lathe than the carbide tipped. I purchased 10 sticks of 1/4" x 200mm HSS blanks from Amazon. And now I see you using the carbide-tipped cutting tools in this video, I am thinking I made a mistake and maybe should have purchased a set of carbide-tipped cutting tools.
G'day Jon. You did the right thing! Making your own HSS tools is perfect for a hobbyist. They are much much cheaper than inserts, give a far better finish, you can re sharpen them, and when you get to understand the tool geometry, clearance angles, point radius and chip breaking, there isn't any application you can't make a tool for.
The only drawback, and the main reason you don't see hand ground HSS tooling in machine shops is because you can't machine with HSS as fast as you can with carbide inserts. Carbide can machine up to 12 times faster. In business, time is money. Also, they can machine very hard material and most can stand a lot of heat.
For you and I, the satisfaction of making a part with cutting tools that we made from scratch with our own hands is priceless! I do have one carbide insert boring bar that I had to buy when I needed an accurate hole in a titanium part. Haven't used it since! Anyways, pay particular attention to your lathe speed and your tool feed rate, use some coolant as HSS can be ruined if it gets too hot and keep them sharp. If your HSS tool is ruined, it's only a couple of dollars for a whole new HSS bar which can be any tool you can imagine. Here in Australia, a pack of general purpose 22mm triangular carbide inserts from a budget machinery house is as $220AU where a 3-pack of HSS square bits, 3/8" x 3" is $12.00AU. I'll say no more!
Stay safe and Merry Christmas to you & your family 🎄 Cheers, Michael 🇦🇺
Not aluminum again or is that alaminemin, how about using steel.
underrated machining channel
great design.
I'm wondering if that cam / off centered aluminium post is wearing out after frequent locking and unlocking = rubbing against that brass pegs.
sorry for using guesswork terminology as I'm a total noob in the metal works.
Nice! I see chips flying all around the lathe motor vent slots! Yikes! So the strength and rigidity of the tool holder mount relies entirely on the two machine screws holding the dovetail slab onto the main housing? Perhaps that's enough for a mini lathe? I see them coming loose over time. Still amazing work overall!
Thanks for the feedback. I wouldn't be too concerned about the motor back there. It's an induction motor and doesn't mind a few chips here and there. It isn't an optimal method of powering the lathe, but it was a temporary fix that I haven't gotten around to changing. As for the screws, I know full well it isn't optimal, but I've used it for over half a year now with out issue. I didn't have a big mill at the time to machine the dovetails, so I made the best of what I had on hand. Cheers.
I admire your hacksaw work and determination to create your own tool posts. But there's no need to use carbide tools on ally. Hard steel is good enough, I also noticed you used maybe your highest chuck speed whilst that whacking great big drill bit was in your tailstock end, the smaller the bit the higher the speed needed, not vice versa.
Thanks for the feedback, I have really gone back and forth on my view on carbide. I used to really like it for aluminium but recently I've made the switch to hss. As for the high rpm, it is an issue that i am aware of but don't have a fix for. I power the lathe using an induction motor and with the gear ratios I currently have the lowest rpm I can achieve is 1000rpm. Not optimal for sure but I hope work around it in the future. Cheers
@@artisanmakes If you use an induction motor, slap a VFD (Variable Frequency Drive) onto it. As your mini lathe won't have much power anyway, they cost small money on Ebay. And you'll get the full torque on any rpm up to the nominal rpm of the motor...
Are you seriously cutting this by hand ?
Hello, I see your video, it is very interresting. But I was chock when you put your finger into the bore of the aluminium part. For your safety never, NEVER use your finger into a rotating hole. Always with a tool or something. Your finger can be cut. Thanks.
Cheers, no my proudest moment in retrospect. From memory (and looking at the old footage) the scotch brite was just to round the corner slightly. The camera angle makes it look worse, but I am only pushing down lightly on the top corner and my finger was not inside the bore. Certainly won't be doing that again.
Totally agree! High four to you ;-)
Steal would have been a better construction material for this project. Unless you don't care much about it being a solid base. I do.
On a bare bones mini lathe it was fine and rigid enough to machine most metals. Only had to replace it one I started to machine alloy steel.
Yeah G'day , you have hacksawed so much thick plate etc. Ever thought of a bandsaw? Maybe a portable hand held one? Or even one with a small footprint. It would be a most valuable tool for you to have. Ive seen you hacksaw through some big, long and thicc pieces of material.
oh by the way, I really enjoy seeing you overcome some big problems and challenges. For the equipment you have you do some incredible work. I really liked the vice you made (haha which one you ask? ) well all of them I suppose lol the boring head was awesome to behold. The channel is fantastic, you make great video and include all your struggles and fails(work slipping in vice etc), I think its really only a fail if you dont learn something from it. Anywho I hope the channel keeps growing stong. Soon 100k subs!!!
Great design there, thanks for posting 👍
Question: would 65-45-12 ductile iron “work” for (quick-change) tool-holders?
I'd say no, because of the shock loads (interrupted cuts etc). It'd be better than alu for the toolpost block tho, especially with steel dovetails like this one.
dimensions of the tool holder please
Glad this vid was not in real time, as the ally block would of took most of the vid. LOL
Anyway nice so see how you made it , good work :) and thank you for sharing,
It certainly took up the most time. The lathe is great, but boring is certainly a weak point and it took a long time to achieve.
If you want a good finish on aluminum, and no aluminum on the carbide tip, use paraffin
I typically use mineral oil as a cutting fluid, I think that is similar to paraffin
Brother.. There is just NO FREAKIN WAYYYY you cut everything with a hacksaw..
Its so dumb, but there is just something about a stationary drill cutting into a spinning work piece that amuses me. Every other time I see a drill, its the drill moving.
Excellent video!
Holy interrupted cuts batman!
The cutter can take it
G'day Art, very very clever use of the tools you have. Really impressive result man. If I can offer one quick filing tip...the best surface finish possible from a file is by draw filing. Hold the file (file itself, not the handle) in both hands like you were on a motorcycle , then push and pull the file over your surface until all file marks are gone. It will even negate the need for any more time to be spent on that surface. Cheers again and happy Christmas mate. Thank for all the entertainment and knowledge you provided this year.
Stay safe & be happy. Michael 🤓🇦🇺🎁
Not if you're a C&G skilled tradie.
I'm getting a bit old now at 71, but I still have a filing muscle on the top of my elbow.
With that, the file stays flat no matter what.
@@jenniferrobinson4277 not sure exactly what you mean but I’m interested if you’d like to explain more. Cheers.
@@SpatialGuy77 won't let me post a pic.
Excelente idea y excelente trabajo muy bien realizado Maestro, le felicito!!!!!!!! , un saludo .
Its aluminium?
Nice job, but I cringed when I saw you put your fingers in the hole of the spinning workpiece! That's a good way to lose a finger (or two) - also, never try to remove swarf with bare fingers while the job is spinning!
He left the key in the chuck as well.
Omfg genious
You can adapt a DC variable sewing machine motor to a small wood band-saw, looks like something you would get use out of. They sell them on ebay.
I just bought a QCTP and I bought a 7 piece 12mm bars like yours from banggood
anyway are the carbide inserts any good cause I'm thinking about buying some extra
inserts $9 for 10 I'm from Melbourne Vic
You'll get mixed responses depending on who you ask. I am personally really fond of carbide inserts, I think on hobby lathes they work fine and have the added benefit of not needing to be ground. I use hss more nowadays but I always keep carbide around. If the inserts have a sharper cutting angle I think it's work having some around, especially if they are affordable. Cheers.
Ooh Ooh, I spotted an chuck key where it should not be!.....ruclips.net/video/90Nu4l_7IIs/видео.html
Nice job on the qctp. Using the steel for the dovetail is a great idea!
Yeah we all break that rule more than we probably should. Cheers
Very skilful and creative work.
That was great. I wish I could get a measured drawing, and I’d try to make it.
my soul start to hurt when i saw him cutting aluminum stock by hand... It is like using flat-head screws in 21 century... criminal.
Its a good workout. If I had the space for a metal bandsaw I would get one though.
well done on the qctp!!!!!
Australian... Owns a Sherline... Chill music... I knew Clickspring had a secret second account!
Funny you should say that, his videos are what convinced me to get a sherline. Cheers.
Those callipers with the broken glass would drive me crazy. Haha!😅
Hehe those things were absolute
troopers.
why torching it at 6:25?
Breaks the glue bond
Excellent job! I hope to use your idea to manufacture a larger version. If you don't mind, of course!
Loving this channel!
I like you work thanks
My only problem with this is that the 2 screws wont be able to take any kind of load or shock. The dovetail piece WILL shift, sooner or later. At the very least, roll pins or blind dowels.
Thankyou for the feedback. I have been using this tool post almost ever day for about 6 months now cutting steel and aluminium and I still have not run into any signs of wear. In a perfect world I would rather use different fasteners, but so far, zero issues. Cheers
I need to make this...
Very inspiring! Can you tell me, why do you torch the parts after maching?
Just to break the superglue that was holding the cam to the Arbor
What kind of glue is that your using and where can it be bought ?
Just regular CA based superglue. For most work I use the cheapest ones I can find at the hardware store. Usually $2 for a pack of 5.
I made mine out of tool steel and works better.
Im sure that it would
Nice build, i have to sort out some new tool posts soon for my new mini lathe, but never thought of quick change for my big lathe as the height adjustment would be soooo helpful
Absolutely, for a bigger lathe a steel tool post is a must. Once you try one you'll never go back. cheers.
Thanks, arty nice.
can you do a video on the motr you are using to run the lathe
Merci
Fascinating! Now all I need is a lathe...
Amazing video
Awesome alternative design
How tr / min
Very nice..Well done...
Exelente Saludos.
nice work
Ficou muito bom e bem acabado, parabéns.
nice
Yes, Master
👍👍👍
WHAT KIND OF GLUE DID YOU USE ????
I used generic brand super glue or CA glue.
I live in the UK and would die just to get hold of a piece of aluminium like you have. I do struggle over here trying to source material for the workshop. Cast iron is also a problem, only real chance I have is to go to a car scrap yard and purchase some brake callipers take them home and cast them into a suitable size. The price you are paying is for a used completed part rather than the lump of cast iron you want. Same for steel, aluminium etc. A scrap yard will not sell you ferrous or none-ferrous metals in any shape or form other than an intended part for a given purpose, then you have to somehow turn that into something that you want as a starting point to machine. So please forgive me when I say I am immensely jealous seeing you turn so much off that rectangle aluminium to achieve your finished parts. Thank you very much for sharing, I enjoyed the video, it was informative, and I only wish I could do the same. I have the talent, the training and the machinery but not the materials. A nice balanced video. So I envy you along with the Americans who also seem to be able to purchase almost anything. I am dreaming of making a fixture pallet for the mill from (1) aluminium and (2) cast iron but cant source the material I need.
I saw this and I was curious, so I checked, and I did find some online suppliers that didn't seem that expensive. I'm a little curious if there's some critical problem with them or something.
@@Taygetea I have not found any on line suppliers who sell that kind of metal, I would love to know where you were looking so that I may invest in some materials. Thanks for the reply.
@@bernieshort9774 All I did was search 'uk aluminum bar'. i saw aluminiumwarehouse, metalsupermarkets, 1stchoicemetals, metals4u (all co uk urls).
@@Taygetea Thank you for your reply, 1st choice metals came up for me for Aluminium, somehow it did not come up on previous search results so thank you. I don't want to get into a too and fro with you and do thank you for your help but I still stand my my original post. I can not source 6 inch round bar and much much more. The choice here in the UK is not so good. Once again thank you.
@@bernieshort9774 I'm in the UK as well, and I sympathise. But I sometimes get offcuts from local engineering companies, which I've found to be good sources for me and other hobby machinists and model engineers. Then there's the specialist model engineers suppliers, and many suppliers on ebay. For the specific case of your 6 inch aluminium bar, and yes I realise that was but a single example, the second hit on ebay for "aluminium round bar 150mm" was from alum-droitwich, only £26 an inch (but it is 6" not metric) ;-) I didn't try it for that example, but I often search ebay for "alumiunium offcuts" and I've bought a lot that way.
Belle réalisation bravo ; )
@artisan I see your mini-lathe has a separate motor did you upgrade it yourself? and what did you change it to? I'm looking to upgrade my motor at some point to make mine more useable
Cheers Dan
The other motor is just a motor that I took from the drill press that I use. I don't use the drill press too often so I was happy to take the motor from it and swap it in when I need it. I originally swapped it in when the motor control board blew in the lathe. There aren't many things to go wrong with the lathe, but the cheap motor controller is one, and since a replacement was $200 AUD at the time, the drill press motor was my temporary solution which I've made permanent. It was easy to make, just a 50mm diameter ring aluminum with a v - groove for the pulley that screws onto the end of the spindle that pokes out the end near the change gears. The drill press ran on a pulley set up so I didn't have to change anything on the motor. The big advantage that I gain from this set up is the lathe can comfortably sit at 2500 rpm. Most of what I do is cut acrylic, so the high rpm really suits me. With the old stock motor I was always afraid of going above 1500 due to the sound it made. Also since the motor is a fixed and constant rpm (around 1000) I get great torque when turning. It does have its disadvantages, such as it is a hassle to drop the rpm (but it can be done by using the other ratios on the pulley on the motor) and I can't use the leadscrew as it is a little fast, but I generally stick to using taps and dies.
Hope this helps. Cheers.
@@artisanmakes awesome thanks for the reply do you know the power rating of the motor by any chance just looking for some more power . The shots I've seen you do with the parting tool makes me a little jealous. I can't manage at all with the parting tool motor doesn't have the grunt
@@eXtReMeMoDd3rZ You might be surprised that it is only a 390w or 1/2 hp motor from this drill press (www.ryobi.com.au/products/details/390w-bench-drill-press-rdp102l) I think the motor just has so much more grunt because its fixed speed. I have seen some of these mini lathes come with more powerful motors, up to 550 or 600w, but those done seem to come with a high and low gear selector. From my perspective, the motor I have now is adequate and a more powerful motor would require an upgrade to the carriage for extra rigidity to turn any faster.
@@artisanmakes Mate- the latest trend is to use the DC motor from a treadmill, with a cheap-as controller and a diode rectifier. Hunt up a free treadmill- people always throw them out when the board fails. then order a power controller board from Ebay, get a rectifier from Jaycar, a heatsink, a computer fan and some connectors and wire. Less than AU$100, and you have full variable control motor- I built this setup for my big wood lathe to turn bedposts- and it's awesome. The speeds attainable with a piece of 2100mmX150mm red ironbark are frightening!!! But you can dial it right down too- a cheap tachometer form ebay would let you dial in exactly what you want. Check out other videos on YT to see how to build this setup- believe me, you'll wonder how you did without it for so long...
Actually- there's a topic for another video- show us how you convert your lathe...
Time to get that band saw you've been wanting.
I have a small one, but I have to upgrade the motor before it can cut metal
Great Work!
Bolts cannot replace pins.
Probably not for bigger tool posts, but they have done the job perfectly on this mini lathe. Cheers
@@artisanmakes You can easily add pens even to the finished handle. Two diagonally will be enough.
If you use insert tools, 90% of the advantages of QC disappear. Inserts are always the same height, so you manufacture a 'shim' the correct thickness, CA it to the bottom of the tool holder, and forget about height ever again. My set of 7 toolholders only had two shims to consider- all the outside had the same insert height (of course- why would the manufacturer do otherwise) and the two boring tools had another. Other 'advantage' is registration. Well, all 4 of the 4 way are registered- only changes if you take them out. Unless you put a peg on that packer, then it registers every time- just like a QC. Given that a QC has one bolt to tighten, and a 4Way has two, the QC is twice as fast- after the first four. So the breakeven is eight. Different 8 of course- moving between the four installed is a simple spin. It then tips towards the 4way- where you can adopt many different angles to give different cuts, and then return to register. QCs need to be zeroed in- machinists take great care to align them with the ways. The 4way has a built in register.
Want to use the occasional HSS bit? Make an adjustable carrier that fits into the 4way. Use the rocking block style as at 0:36. You have to re-adjust every time you grind- just as you have to on the QC.
4 jaws chuck to hold round piece. Need centered every work out. Cool.
why do people go full size after center punching, instead of center drilling first?
Very impressive.