I really like the way you used the lathe to machine the flat surfaces! Never saw a technique like this before. I‘ll definitely give it a try next time I have to square up round stock like this!
This is similar to the British Norman Pattern tool holder. Mostly seen on the Drummond Brothers lathes supplied to the armed forces circa 1914-18 and later. A well made one is more rigid than a cheap qctp. Well worth the effort of making a few , no dovetails and no tricky tolerances. Ideal for small lathes.
This video was fantastic..! The way the lathe was being used, I've not seen others use it this way, at least not with clarity... Being a newbie, I learnt a lot ... Thanks
A mate made something similar to this a several years back. The only real difference was that he slotted the post sleeve and added a long conical spreader down the middle to make it work like an expanding mandrel. The idea was to make the holders as simple as possible because they were what he'd need to make lots of. The holders were just 3" blocks with a large off centre hole reamed through them, and the tool slot (+ threaded clamp bolt holes). Each tool was set to the right height with shims and left in the holder. They worked perfectly for a few years, but over time some of the reamed centre holes wore and got a bit loose. He ended up just replacing it all with a multifix toolpost. Your silted clamp design seems like it's not going to have any problems with this type of wear. Even if the post ended up wearing wildly undersized, it would only need the slits on the holders filing a bit wider to compensate.
Ive made a very similar but larger Norman type tool post to this for my Denford it has proven to be very rigid and this is further enhanced by the minimal offset of the tool from the post itself especially when compared to the Multifix tool post it has replaced.
Fly cutting using a 3 jaw chuck had me scared the tool would let go. Personally, I used a four jaw chuck with the material in the chuck and turned each face flat in turn as normal.
@@MurrayC I had never seen that done before... and honestly, it has opened up a whole new world of possibilities for me :D . I am by no means a professional machinist, but a hobbyist. Got a 1942 South Bend 9A from Military Surplus in great shape that I have been playing on.
Great video, I have been inspired to make one of these, thank you 👍. I am concerned the milling bit will move in the chuck, so I have drilled a 20mm square bar to take the bit with a grub screw and will hold that in the 4 jaw, f?fingers crossed it works OK!
Aluminum threads last a long time if you keep them clean. I've been screwing things down to the aluminum bed of my mini-mill for years (1/2" thick, m5 holes). It was intended to be somewhat temporary just to get up and running, but it's performed so well, I'll just re-make it the same way again if it ever wears out.
How is this a quick change tool post? The main goal is to repeat the position of the tool, yours turns, and you have only one holder. Maybe quick hight adjust toolpost or shimless toolpost.
How often do you need to repeat any parameter other than squareness and the cutting tool being centered? This thing does just as good a job with those as any regular QCTP, save for bumping up against the chuck or aligning with the compound to get it square as needed. If you have a couple of these, you can also swap tools nearly equally quickly (and I'm fairly certain a design tweak could bring it up to par). Okay, this is not a QCTP in the traditional sense, but you appear to be overreacting that a bit, while ignoring the fact that this is infinitely more practical than shimming a four way block.
yeh i tend to agree, with out the good flat bearing surface on the bottom it cant be as rigid although that slit block could be tightened on the thick shaft when you want to get rough ... but i would just prefer to make each tool holder the right height to that jacking screw is not used
If you machine another one make sure that there's no gap between the compound and the tool holder/post you made. You'll be surprised at how much things move and flex when under load. Avoid using 3 jaw chuck as a fly cutter endmill holder if possible.
Why? Just curious. I can't immediately think of how the loads on the chuck would be markedly different in this scenario compared to, say, a relatively heavy interrupted cut or a sustained cut with a form tool in ordinary turning.
@@johannesmajamaki2626 a three jaw chuck always has a little runout which makes it not good for endmills and when you hold a lathe tool in the jaws sideways you are clamping it on the sides of the jaws and not the front.
when you are more experienced you will mount the tool on the spindle,like reverse psychology.I have never done it but it is supper dangerous the cutting tip of the tool might break and fly and hurts and on using manually cutting .i wouldn't recommend.
I've never seen anyone make a flat edge using a lathe before. I was impressed. 👍 Also, I'm wondering - how much runout do you get on your 3 jaw chuck? It's a Bison, correct?
Man that was such a big brain idea using that 3 jaw chuck as a fly cutter. Excellent for those of us who dont have mill.
I really like the way you used the lathe to machine the flat surfaces! Never saw a technique like this before. I‘ll definitely give it a try next time I have to square up round stock like this!
This is similar to the British Norman Pattern tool holder. Mostly seen on the Drummond Brothers lathes supplied to the armed forces circa 1914-18 and later.
A well made one is more rigid than a cheap qctp. Well worth the effort of making a few , no dovetails and no tricky tolerances.
Ideal for small lathes.
This video was fantastic..! The way the lathe was being used, I've not seen others use it this way, at least not with clarity...
Being a newbie, I learnt a lot ... Thanks
A mate made something similar to this a several years back. The only real difference was that he slotted the post sleeve and added a long conical spreader down the middle to make it work like an expanding mandrel. The idea was to make the holders as simple as possible because they were what he'd need to make lots of. The holders were just 3" blocks with a large off centre hole reamed through them, and the tool slot (+ threaded clamp bolt holes). Each tool was set to the right height with shims and left in the holder. They worked perfectly for a few years, but over time some of the reamed centre holes wore and got a bit loose. He ended up just replacing it all with a multifix toolpost.
Your silted clamp design seems like it's not going to have any problems with this type of wear. Even if the post ended up wearing wildly undersized, it would only need the slits on the holders filing a bit wider to compensate.
Very nice design and clever machining methods!
You are better at milling than most people with Bridgeports! Incredible dude
Good work. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎
Someone needs to tell this guy he doesn't have a milling machine because he sure as heck isn't aware ! Freakin impressive sir !!
Beyond Excellent Engineering, Simply Exquisite. Top Job Mate. Cheers from Michael. Australia.
Ive made a very similar but larger Norman type tool post to this for my Denford it has proven to be very rigid and this is further enhanced by the minimal offset of the tool from the post itself especially when compared to the Multifix tool post it has replaced.
Great video, interesting techniques, awesome choice in background music!
do you have design sheets for this available? love your work this is great, and id love to make one myself!
Fly cutting using a 3 jaw chuck had me scared the tool would let go. Personally, I used a four jaw chuck with the material in the chuck and turned each face flat in turn as normal.
Sorry, should have said that I love it overall, very well executed.
I tried with a 4-jaw chuck, I didn't like it
@@MurrayC I had never seen that done before... and honestly, it has opened up a whole new world of possibilities for me :D .
I am by no means a professional machinist, but a hobbyist. Got a 1942 South Bend 9A from Military Surplus in great shape that I have been playing on.
This was awesome to watch! Very resourceful!
Can someone please tell me what exactly the part is that is mounted on the top slide in minute 7:30? Is it possible to buy one and if so where?
Has anyone really got any ideas? 😔
Nicely done, thanks for sharing.
Cheers
Hi, Great work and talanted man in small lathe machine ...All the best
Hello,what’s the name of that piece you’re using instead of the tool holder? Good job, thank you.
Beautiful work
Ottimo lavoro, complimenti... Su che materiale hai lavorato?
Great work whats the brand of your lathe machine and how much does it cost?
Great video, I have been inspired to make one of these, thank you 👍. I am concerned the milling bit will move in the chuck, so I have drilled a 20mm square bar to take the bit with a grub screw and will hold that in the 4 jaw, f?fingers crossed it works OK!
How’s the aluminum holding up after the steel bolts have been run thru the threads a time or two?
Everything works great
Aluminum threads last a long time if you keep them clean. I've been screwing things down to the aluminum bed of my mini-mill for years (1/2" thick, m5 holes). It was intended to be somewhat temporary just to get up and running, but it's performed so well, I'll just re-make it the same way again if it ever wears out.
Bravo
Quelle est la marque de votre tour ?
I just watched a few of your videos this afternoon. Outstanding! Such great content! Keep going.
Amazing work
nice job. Gave me some creativity.
How is this a quick change tool post? The main goal is to repeat the position of the tool, yours turns, and you have only one holder. Maybe quick hight adjust toolpost or shimless toolpost.
Thanks for ruining the ending for me.
@@combatcurtful The truth ruins your life, lies makes you happy and you are replying to a question what nobody asked.
How often do you need to repeat any parameter other than squareness and the cutting tool being centered? This thing does just as good a job with those as any regular QCTP, save for bumping up against the chuck or aligning with the compound to get it square as needed. If you have a couple of these, you can also swap tools nearly equally quickly (and I'm fairly certain a design tweak could bring it up to par).
Okay, this is not a QCTP in the traditional sense, but you appear to be overreacting that a bit, while ignoring the fact that this is infinitely more practical than shimming a four way block.
@@combatcurtful show everyone on the doll where he touched you 🤣
@@cinemoriahFPV it hurts too much to show
perfect wee lathe for a hobbyist
Jag kommer att göra detta själv!!! Tack.
O mas prático e o.melhor que vi até agora parabéns sou do brasil
C'est de l'aluminium ?
поджим суппорта сделайте!
очень полезная весч на таких чудо станках)
ну и при фрезеровке удобно
Всему свое время)
Subscribed. Did you use steel or aluminum for the toolpost parts ?
aluminum
great work sir
Very very good design
Do oyu have any Dimensions for this build that you could send me?
Nice projeck
That's amazing work 🙂
Muy buen trabajo. Felicitaciones. Desde Argentina.
LOVELY JOB.
#1 - Milling on the lathe, without using a milling machine.
yeh i tend to agree, with out the good flat bearing surface on the bottom it cant be as rigid although that slit block could be tightened on the thick shaft when you want to get rough ... but i would just prefer to make each tool holder the right height to that jacking screw is not used
If you machine another one make sure that there's no gap between the compound and the tool holder/post you made. You'll be surprised at how much things move and flex when under load. Avoid using 3 jaw chuck as a fly cutter endmill holder if possible.
Why? Just curious. I can't immediately think of how the loads on the chuck would be markedly different in this scenario compared to, say, a relatively heavy interrupted cut or a sustained cut with a form tool in ordinary turning.
@@johannesmajamaki2626 a three jaw chuck always has a little runout which makes it not good for endmills and when you hold a lathe tool in the jaws sideways you are clamping it on the sides of the jaws and not the front.
when you are more experienced you will mount the tool on the spindle,like reverse psychology.I have never done it but it is supper dangerous the cutting tip of the tool might break and fly and hurts and on using manually cutting .i wouldn't recommend.
Eu achei seu modelo o mais interesante e mais abil de fazer da hora
Excelente trabajo, tienes mucho talento
Skvělá práce, přesné a né tak náročné na výrobu, super jsem Váš odběratel Díky.
Děkuji!
I've never seen anyone make a flat edge using a lathe before. I was impressed. 👍
Also, I'm wondering - how much runout do you get on your 3 jaw chuck? It's a Bison, correct?
Bravo complimenti , li sto facendo anche io ....sto cercando L'utente come il tuo per interni ....
Дуже добре! Мені подобається деблок, яким ви тримаєте стовп і робите на ньому горизонтальний отвір. Ви це зробили? Я хотів би купити один.
Nice work
Good job, very nice. Ez.
Valeu muito obrigado!
🇧🇷
Good 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Creative video, thanks :)
Mi comentario no tiene ningún sentido, solo agradecimiento al Autor del canal!👍
tolle Idee, super✌
у тебя нет фрезерного?
Top, top, top 👏👏👏👏
Ao elevar o castelo,. não vai dar vibrações
Nice chips.
alat pengukur igital itu apa namanya?
I ve change as a week my qctp in aluminium fore an steel qctp. The aluminium post in a long time IS go bad. Steel IS very better
BUEN TRABAJO
как удачно тебе кубик усп пригодился))
Nice
this is not quick change tool post. this is QUICK POST
Не будет жёсткости при точении .
😉😜👍👍👍
Гарно зроблено, але люміній мене смущає...