As a newbie to your channel on catch-up... after hearing your talk of "I *NEED* a toolpost" and "spares for this are imposible to find and cost a fortune"... I've been expecting this one. Really enjoying your channel. Hope to see plenty more.
Nice Richard. I built one similar to yours about 2 years ago and what an improvement much nicer to work with. I made the Nut from a scrape of aluminum I had laying around it worked out fine. I did however make my handle straight but into a whole I drilled on the drill press in a vice with an adjustable angle. The angle is a little steeper than that of the tool lock lever. This is I think the best improvement I've made to the lathe because every time I use the lathe I use it! Thank you!
This is the first of your videos I've seen. WOW! Production quality is top notch, information given is top notch, details and camera shots are all top notch. Well done sir. I have seen many different content creators videos and yours are definitely up there!
Perfect work, perfect video. You show the finished work at the beginning of the video, thats very importend, so I know what you'r doing. I'm missing this point in almost all other videos!
I enjoyed your presentation very much! I have also read many comments before I choose to ad a few things to the discussion and will hope I do not offend others. 1 The music I was not bothered by as I was intent on learning your method of obtaining the objective! 2 The use of the Shaper for the dovetails is for a home workshop, apart from being relaxing if I remember correctly is also a huge amount cheaper than buying a Dovetail Cutter even with a Mill. To add to this the cutter as shown can be sharpened in the home workshop. 3 The last thought I have is to do with the question of repeatability, that is to with tool post position. With your setup I think it may be possible to set up a stop of some form in the tee slots. Perhaps also include some form of dowel for standard tool angles. Okay my thoughts are done and welcome better ideas as I am here to learn. Cheers from John, Australia.
There are two systems of QCTPs the ones that push the holder away from the main body and second the ones that hold him towards the main body to clamp him like Multifix and all the pro' s ones...the second ones have the best repeatability...like yours.. If you think about it at the first way turning forces work all on the one stud behind the holder he can be as strong as he wants on the second way the forces divide on the whole main body and that's where the good rigidity comes from. I always look first when i see a QTPC which system he has and then i know how good his repeatability will be.. There are also good ones with dovetails...and that's one of the best i ever saw... very good work dude...👍👍👍
Cool. I have one tip: spin those tool clamping setscrews in a pipe in the chuck, face them off and then file the end to as flat as you can by hand. The filed surface is superior to turned or rough in preserving the surface of your tools; it only leaves surface marks on aluminum and doesn't wipe off the finish on black tools. The screws clamp quicker because the flat surface isn't springy. My other suggestion would be to add a spring under the brass cone so help keep it from binding inside the toolpost.
thecogwheel very nice work. And it came out looking so beautiful!! Wondering. If I was to say over shoot on the threads of the draw nut. And the handle tightens up in the wrong place. Can I just add a machined spacer in between the top nut/handle nut and the cone so it tightens up sooner? I’m building my version of this right now. Thanks
I like the simplicity of that design. Not sure I'd be able to accomplish that with the tools at hand (certainly not as nice as that one lol) but I'm definitely willing to tackle it 😊
It's not that hard. Seriously. Most folks don't have a shaper but a dovetail cutter works (and probably is quicker because you know what they say about shapers ... you can make anything but money).
Very nice idea. Now I will build my own. I don't need drawings because I have a CAD program. I will however add another cone. Thanks for the idea. These things are very expensive in my country (South Africa) - even the imported Chinese junk. I don't have a milling machine, but I do have a lathe. I converted it to do milling as well, and drilling, besides drilling thru the center of a bar!
I have been looking for a smaller QCTP for my 7x10 mini lathe. You design is slick with the cone in the center to expand the dovetail. Thanks for the video.
Excellent presentation, enjoy every second of it. Did we notice the hollow and solid cones only match each other seamlessly when both are not pinched against one another? Any pinching force induce a displacement can cause distortion in the hollow cone. All the pinching stress will shift towards the (inverted) base of each cone, result in localized expanding force and not spread over the cone body. Do you agree?
Wow ! I'm impressed with everything here. You put a lot of thought, work & time into the video presentation as well as the machining . Everything comes across beautifully. Thank you & I'm hoping you will do more. BTW, I'm finding a lot of use for the digital levels (inclinometers ?)
Thanks Len. Really appreciate it. It was a fun build. More stuff is coming. Yes those digital levels are handy things. I keep forgetting about it sitting in my toolbox.
Subscribed. It's good to see someone using hhs and not just carbide. Don't get me wrong I use carbide but I really like taking the time to grind my own tools bits and getting that prefect chip, because hay this is what I do for fun...I could never make any money because i take to long lol
Thanks Dave. I really prefer HSS for the home shop. I use carbide as well, but I find that insert based carbide is a bit of a black hole with all the different geometries. That and the price can add up quickly. I use the money I save for buying material and other shop things. HSS is still very productive as well.
Отличная работа! Вопрос сжатия ластохвоста под нагрузкой остается открытым. По статистике ютуба новую резцедержку точат обычно те, кто купил себе кассетную резцедержку с отжимным поршнем, хотя всей этой истории можно было бы избежать, доплатив всего 10% и взяв резцедержку с клином ;)
WOW! That’s such a simple design but can do some serious cuts!!!! I always looked at those QCTP’s and thought there might be a simpler way to design them, and this is a super awesome idea! You mention it belongs to another engineer and you just made some improvements to it, right? Wish I could scale that down to a Sherline lathe but not sure it would be able to cut it that nice. That shaper can be slow but sure it is a nice machine!!!! Could you tell us the total time it took you to make it? And a guesstimate on how long it would shorten the time by using a mill VS the shaper ? Thank you for sharing this project!
Just a suggestion, but on a small setup like that if you make your toolholders a bit longer you wouldn't have so much "stick out" on your cutting tools. Better to have more toolholder, it's more rigid than that little piece of HSS sticking out. Looking at your threading tool especially, you only need 1-2cm at most, cutting tools the same.
This follows my previous comment. One way to detect conformity at the cone interface is by a blue ink test. Same ink we use in metal scraping. You will be the judge how much % contact area meets your satisfaction. If we desired to keep the same concept design and time invested in making it, consider this. Options: 1. Replace the inverted solid cone by a ER collet that fits the post bolt and the hollow cone. This way the flexibility in the collet can play a conformance role to better the conformity for stronger holding force. 2. Replace the inverted cone by a matching size metal ball. Ball with a hollow axle and without the northern hemisphere. So the half sphere is pinching against and expanding the hollow cone. 3. Replace the steel solid cone by an equal sized cone made of semi-fluid/solid material to catch up with the expansion of the hollow cone. Material can range from high hardness tire rubber trough lead and up to soft aluminum or soft copper (and not brass). Caveat? down this path we may experience difficulty in releasing the tool holder. That is caused by cone surface friction, because of the soft material had dug into the micro striations on the hollowed cone. That can be entertained by grinding and followed by lapping. 4. Is further improvement on 1 thru 3 above. Yo make a horizontal mirror copy of the upper half cone system to the lower half. Hope this helps.
I made my own tool post for my antique sheldon and some holders but I copied the aloris I like this one better are there any prints available also like your shaper what brand is it I had a Cincinnati about the same size and loved it nice work I'm a retired machinist now but still play in my garage with my old Bridgeport and my old sheldon lathe and a few others yes 12L14 is like butter use it ever chance I get it has the same tensile strength as 1018 just don't weld good thanks great work
Thanks Scott. "Musick" can be tricky subject. What is good for some isn't others. I thought about leaving it with no soundtrack but that doesn't work either. That and you can't just put any music - you need permission and copyright and all that.
THAT !! DOPES !! GOT !! TONNES !! OF !! JUNK !! STEEL !! LYING !! AROUND !! EVERYWHERE !!! THATS !! WHY!! HE !! COULD !! MAKE !! ONE !! FOR !! IDIOTS !! LIKE !! YOU !! TO !! SHOW !!!! ON !! CRAPPY !! YOU !!! TUBE !!!
What about indexing? At least half the point of a QC... I use insert tooling, so can attach a fixed packer to all holders- that eliminates height setting. So a simple bridge toolholder would give me the same interchangeability, but would include change indexing (via a lip on the packer) with a lot less work and more rigidity. And no carriers required. I feel a project coming on.
Nice video! Interesting, I made a similar style tool post a year ago, I thought I had invented something new! Apparently not PS enjoying your podcast :)
WITH !! ALL !! THAT !! HIGH !! END !! JUNK !! YOU COULD !! HAVE !! GONE !! AND !! BOUGHT !! TEN !! PLUS !!! Q.C !! POSTS !!!! AND ! HAD !! STILL !! HAD !! MISSERABLE !!! BRASS ;! IN !! YOUR !! POCKET !!!!
Absolute masterpiece! Cutting that slot on a band saw must have took some balls, especially after all the hours of work with the shaper. Speaking of balls, is there any way you can show us step by step on your manual ball turning technique? Or do you have a video on that?
Hello Thecogwheel, my name is Pepe and I write from Spain. Do you have two questions? When did you buy a blue marker? What is the commercial name of a blue marker? this video is the most explicative to I can make to a quick change toolpost.
thecogwheel HI I sent $9.00 to Andy Lofquist for the plans to his MLA-23 so if you sent him a copy of your plans i may already have a copy coming to me. If not i would like to receive a copy of your plans as i am designing a QCTP to fit my 7x10 lathe. My email address is pete_mclaughlin_93555@yahoo.com. Thanks Pete
It's not. It's the angle of the camera and what you are seeing is the cooling fan inside the protective grate. From 5:04-5:06, you can see the impeller come to a stop.
Well, I understand why you did it. But the need of holders are in the double digits. I use 17 at work and am about to get more of them. There should be one holder for every tool at least if you have the possibility to index them...
Very impressive machinery and tooling for a home shop. I haven't seen a shaper in many, many years. Very nice work also, you could work in my shop anytime. What are some of the machine manufacturers?
thecogwheel: Thanks for your elegantly simple but sturdy design. If there was a way to make this design angular repeatable it would be as useful as Aloris, less expensive to build and more suitable for smaller lathes.
Thanks! There is room in the base for a locking pin or you could graduate the base with angular divisions. I was going to do this but the lack of repeatability doesn't really factor into the work I do.
Nice to know there's a way to do this. Repeatability is essential to me for multiple operations on same part such as turning, knurling, threading and parting off without changing angular position.
No, I don't think so. I think you could easily modify the dimension to hold AXA Aloris style holders though. That said the design does require a reasonable tolerance on the dovetail section to work properly. Some clone holders might have some loose tolerances as the Aloris style allows for more play I think.
thecogwheel I can see that, the aloris doesn't spread the dovetail like this one does. If the holder is a bit bigger, it may not grip it. I'm not against making things, but when import holders are cheap, I get lazy. Thanks for the response.
Thanks Luke. Regarding the angular repeatability - when you loosen the handle it allows the tool to change in both height and rotation. This is vastly different than the Aloris design - which usually requires a wrench to loosen the top nut to rotate the toolpost. The handle on the Aloris style is only for locking the tool in the vertical plane if that makes sense. So on this toolpost whenever you loosen the handle to change tools or adjust height you set the angle of the tool to the work. For some people this is a big deal since the toolpost changes a bit in position your dials (or digital read out) are not consistent from part to part. It really depends on what you do in your shop. For me height repeatability is the most important. I'm always adjusting the angular position of my toolpost anyway.
I've thought about this. If you really need to stop the post from rotating, you could always reduce the height of the post itself. Mount it to a bigger, thicker base plate (think shaped like the Wi-Fi indicator on your computer) that can be immobilized to the cross slide via another tee bolt/nut combo, in an arcing slot cut on the mill. Pin the post with one locating pin to the base plate, dead opposite to the slit. Or a tab affixed to the back of the post somehow (welded, maybe) and bolted to the base plate.
Awesome project and great video work! If I may though; the audio mixing could use some tweaks in the future. Your music and voice should be mixed to the same volume, and instead of just cutting the music when you do a voiceover, I'd consider fading it down very quiet, and then fading it back up after you speak!
thecogwheel Just bought one! And will be looking to make a tool post like this. One question...can the tool holders be made out of aluminum, or is that not rigid enough?
Congrats! I don't see why aluminum couldn't be used. It will not be as rigid - aluminum's modulus of elasticity is about 1/3 of steel's. In practice you might not really notice depending on what you are doing.
It's not perfect (nothing is - your measuring tools just don't have the precision :) ). I have a long way to go to even approach your skill. But the compliment is appreciated!
LOL it makes sense now - had manufacturing engineer on the brain and when I read production ..... I thought it was an exceptionally gracious comment ... You work to at least one, more likely 2, orders of magnitude more precise than I do.
Very good video, showing every aspect of the build. Ive used the same ball turner attachment for years. Even makes the job easier. Thanks
I'm not a machinist, but I definitely can appreciate the amount of work that went into this project and the video. Nicely done
Thanks Phil!
Phil Pinsky Productions yu
Very nice design and mill work. The polished ball shapes a pleasing to the hand and eye!
I bought the plans last month. Watching your work with them close to hand is perfect. Thanks for posting this.
Thanks for watching! It is a really nice design - wish I could take credit for it!
As a newbie to your channel on catch-up... after hearing your talk of "I *NEED* a toolpost" and "spares for this are imposible to find and cost a fortune"... I've been expecting this one.
Really enjoying your channel. Hope to see plenty more.
Great job. I like that design, the tapered wedge to expand the dovetail. You can rotate it 360 degrees as well brilliant.
Nice Richard. I built one similar to yours about 2 years ago and what an improvement much nicer to work with. I made the Nut from a scrape of aluminum I had laying around it worked out fine. I did however make my handle straight but into a whole I drilled on the drill press in a vice with an adjustable angle. The angle is a little steeper than that of the tool lock lever. This is I think the best improvement I've made to the lathe because every time I use the lathe I use it! Thank you!
Thanks for your support and comments!
Ahh, The pleasure of watching extreme craftsmanship combined with art. Thank you
This is the first of your videos I've seen. WOW! Production quality is top notch, information given is top notch, details and camera shots are all top notch. Well done sir. I have seen many different content creators videos and yours are definitely up there!
the only thing i would change is volume levels. having to struggle to hear him talk only to get blasted by the baseline was a little unnerving.
Perfect work, perfect video. You show the finished work at the beginning of the video, thats very importend, so I know what you'r doing. I'm missing this point in almost all other videos!
Thanks
Beeindruckende Arbeit, beeindruckendes Werkzeug und beeindruckende Videos! PERFEKT
Nice work! Enjoyed seeing the various use of 123 and v-blocks for your layout.
Thanks!
You are a very patient person to turn the balls on the end of your handles by hand. Looks awesome
PRETTY !! DARN !! STUPID !!! NO !! USE !! WHATSOEVER!! THAT !! DUMB !! IDEA !!!
Great idea and very nicely machined. I'm in the process of making one for my emomat 7 lathe/mill. But I'm using my existing tool holders.
this is a good alternative to the lantern tool post & modern alternative . Replacement one can make on the lathe
Excellent video and very informative, lots of tips for people who are new to machining, nice to see the shaper in action, Regards Doc Cox.
Thanks!
Ce montage est absolument génial !!!!
Bravo monsieur !
This montage is absolutely great !!!!
Well done sir!
Thanks Georges!
Very very very accurate and precise so perfect
I enjoyed your presentation very much! I have also read many comments before I choose to ad a few things to the discussion and will hope I do not offend others.
1 The music I was not bothered by as I was intent on learning your method of obtaining the objective!
2 The use of the Shaper for the dovetails is for a home workshop, apart from being relaxing if I remember correctly is also a huge amount cheaper than buying a Dovetail Cutter even with a Mill. To add to this the cutter as shown can be sharpened in the home workshop.
3 The last thought I have is to do with the question of repeatability, that is to with tool post position. With your setup I think it may be possible to set up a stop of some form in the tee slots. Perhaps also include some form of dowel for standard tool angles.
Okay my thoughts are done and welcome better ideas as I am here to learn. Cheers from John, Australia.
You put so much work into the video. It is really great.
The toolpost is even better!
Thanks John!
WHAT !! UTTER !! CRAP !! THAT !! IS !!!
Very excellent video. I really enjoyed it. Great machining lesson. I have a Schaublin 102 and use an Aloris AXA QCTP.
Thanks Lawrence. Appreciate it.
Good work. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎
Loved your ball turning attachment!
Very cool and great video,,,very professionally done, liked how you made the ball on the end of the handle.
USELESS !! BALL !! END !!
There are two systems of QCTPs the ones that push the holder away from the main body and second the ones that hold him towards the main body to clamp him like Multifix and all the pro' s ones...the second ones have the best repeatability...like yours.. If you think about it at the first way turning forces work all on the one stud behind the holder he can be as strong as he wants on the second way the forces divide on the whole main body and that's where the good rigidity comes from. I always look first when i see a QTPC which system he has and then i know how good his repeatability will be..
There are also good ones with dovetails...and that's one of the best i ever saw... very good work dude...👍👍👍
Cool. I have one tip: spin those tool clamping setscrews in a pipe in the chuck, face them off and then file the end to as flat as you can by hand. The filed surface is superior to turned or rough in preserving the surface of your tools; it only leaves surface marks on aluminum and doesn't wipe off the finish on black tools. The screws clamp quicker because the flat surface isn't springy.
My other suggestion would be to add a spring under the brass cone so help keep it from binding inside the toolpost.
Thanks - good tip! Regarding the spring I've never had the toolpost bind yet so it seems that one isn't required.
Beautiful piece of work. Thanks for sharing.
Mr, that is some impressive videowork and machining! And you use the shaper, so I had to thumb up anyway ;)
Thanks Stefan. When I've impressed the German I know I've done something right :). You need to do more shaper stuff. I have a lot I need to learn!
thecogwheel very nice work. And it came out looking so beautiful!! Wondering. If I was to say over shoot on the threads of the draw nut. And the handle tightens up in the wrong place. Can I just add a machined spacer in between the top nut/handle nut and the cone so it tightens up sooner? I’m building my version of this right now. Thanks
Sehr gut.
Wow, and to think I was gonna buy a set. I may just give this a shot.
I really enjoy your "cartesian coordinate" ball-turning attachement. ;D
Thank you. Very high tech :)
I like the simplicity of that design. Not sure I'd be able to accomplish that with the tools at hand (certainly not as nice as that one lol) but I'm definitely willing to tackle it 😊
It's not that hard. Seriously. Most folks don't have a shaper but a dovetail cutter works (and probably is quicker because you know what they say about shapers ... you can make anything but money).
Very nice idea. Now I will build my own. I don't need drawings because I have a CAD program. I will however add another cone. Thanks for the idea. These things are very expensive in my country (South Africa) - even the imported Chinese junk. I don't have a milling machine, but I do have a lathe. I converted it to do milling as well, and drilling, besides drilling thru the center of a bar!
Excelente trabalho! Muito prático e rápido para troca de ferramentas!👏👏👏🙂👍
I have been looking for a smaller QCTP for my 7x10 mini lathe. You design is slick with the cone in the center to expand the dovetail. Thanks for the video.
Thanks! I think it would be great for a mini lathe!
thecogwheel I would like drawings if you have them.
My email address is pete_mclaughlin_93555@yahoo.com
Thanks
Pete
THE Q.C POST !! COSTS !! MORE !! THAN !! THE !! LATHE !!! HOW !! WONDERFUL !! THAT !! IS !!
Excellent presentation, enjoy every second of it.
Did we notice the hollow and solid cones only match each other seamlessly when both are not pinched against one another? Any pinching force induce a displacement can cause distortion in the hollow cone. All the pinching stress will shift towards the (inverted) base of each cone, result in localized expanding force and not spread over the cone body. Do you agree?
Wow ! Fabulous work. Subscribed.
Thanks for the sub!!!!
Wow ! I'm impressed with everything here. You put a lot of thought, work & time into the video presentation as well as the machining . Everything comes across beautifully. Thank you & I'm hoping you will do more. BTW, I'm finding a lot of use for the digital levels (inclinometers ?)
Thanks Len. Really appreciate it. It was a fun build. More stuff is coming. Yes those digital levels are handy things. I keep forgetting about it sitting in my toolbox.
I have the same lathe 2227 good work ,thanks you have inspired me to make one for the 2227 .
You are skilled. Great work! Thanks for sharing.
Thank you!
Subscribed. It's good to see someone using hhs and not just carbide. Don't get me wrong I use carbide but I really like taking the time to grind my own tools bits and getting that prefect chip, because hay this is what I do for fun...I could never make any money because i take to long lol
Thanks Dave. I really prefer HSS for the home shop. I use carbide as well, but I find that insert based carbide is a bit of a black hole with all the different geometries. That and the price can add up quickly. I use the money I save for buying material and other shop things. HSS is still very productive as well.
Good job, If I ever built one like so, I would add a spring under the cone.
It works great without it!
Top notch machine work and video editing...impressive ~ Richard
Отличная работа! Вопрос сжатия ластохвоста под нагрузкой остается открытым. По статистике ютуба новую резцедержку точат обычно те, кто купил себе кассетную резцедержку с отжимным поршнем, хотя всей этой истории можно было бы избежать, доплатив всего 10% и взяв резцедержку с клином ;)
WOW! That’s such a simple design but can do some serious cuts!!!! I always looked at those QCTP’s and thought there might be a simpler way to design them, and this is a super awesome idea! You mention it belongs to another engineer and you just made some improvements to it, right? Wish I could scale that down to a Sherline lathe but not sure it would be able to cut it that nice. That shaper can be slow but sure it is a nice machine!!!! Could you tell us the total time it took you to make it? And a guesstimate on how long it would shorten the time by using a mill VS the shaper ? Thank you for sharing this project!
Great job. Thanks for sharing. I like your tools and equipments , nice stuff.
Thanks Mohammad!
Very nice work. Machining & camera. Subscribed
That was nice to watch! Thanks.
thanks! It was fun to do.
Just a suggestion, but on a small setup like that if you make your toolholders a bit longer you wouldn't have so much "stick out" on your cutting tools. Better to have more toolholder, it's more rigid than that little piece of HSS sticking out. Looking at your threading tool especially, you only need 1-2cm at most, cutting tools the same.
This follows my previous comment.
One way to detect conformity at the cone interface is by a blue ink test. Same ink we use in metal scraping. You will be the judge how much % contact area meets your satisfaction.
If we desired to keep the same concept design and time invested in making it, consider this.
Options:
1. Replace the inverted solid cone by a ER collet that fits the post bolt and the hollow cone. This way the flexibility in the collet can play a conformance role to better the conformity for stronger holding force.
2. Replace the inverted cone by a matching size metal ball. Ball with a hollow axle and without the northern hemisphere. So the half sphere is pinching against and expanding the hollow cone.
3. Replace the steel solid cone by an equal sized cone made of semi-fluid/solid material to catch up with the expansion of the hollow cone. Material can range from high hardness tire rubber trough lead and up to soft aluminum or soft copper (and not brass).
Caveat? down this path we may experience difficulty in releasing the tool holder. That is caused by cone surface friction, because of the soft material had dug into the micro striations on the hollowed cone. That can be entertained by grinding and followed by lapping.
4. Is further improvement on 1 thru 3 above. Yo make a horizontal mirror copy of the upper half cone system to the lower half.
Hope this helps.
I very much enjoyed this video! I'll be building something similar soon.
I recommend you use a guard to prevent chips flying into your lathe motor. Its a pain in the ass when that happens
Pretty much guaranteed it's a TEFC motor and a chip hitting the cooling fan is like me swatting at a fly with my hand.
WOW! I bet the video editing took as long as the build. Amazing work.
I made my own tool post for my antique sheldon and some holders but I copied the aloris I like this one better are there any prints available also like your shaper what brand is it I had a Cincinnati about the same size and loved it nice work I'm a retired machinist now but still play in my garage with my old Bridgeport and my old sheldon lathe and a few others yes 12L14 is like butter use it ever chance I get it has the same tensile strength as 1018 just don't weld good thanks great work
Very cool and great video!!! From Russia with Love!!!
Мне понравилось спокойно без спешки всё подробно и понятно и мастерская хорошая удачи коллега
Nicely done! 🤙
Amazing work ... thanks for share!
I had to view this silent as the "musick" drowns out your voice over. Excellent video quality and detail. I would like to build one.
Thanks Scott. "Musick" can be tricky subject. What is good for some isn't others. I thought about leaving it with no soundtrack but that doesn't work either. That and you can't just put any music - you need permission and copyright and all that.
Music's just fine...
THAT !! DOPES !! GOT !! TONNES !! OF !! JUNK !! STEEL !! LYING !! AROUND !! EVERYWHERE !!! THATS !! WHY!! HE !! COULD !! MAKE !! ONE !! FOR !! IDIOTS !! LIKE !! YOU !! TO !! SHOW !!!! ON !! CRAPPY !! YOU !!! TUBE !!!
What about indexing? At least half the point of a QC...
I use insert tooling, so can attach a fixed packer to all holders- that eliminates height setting. So a simple bridge toolholder would give me the same interchangeability, but would include change indexing (via a lip on the packer) with a lot less work and more rigidity. And no carriers required. I feel a project coming on.
Great work on the tool post, and the video! :)
Thanks Max! Lots of time into editing this one. And using the shaper :). You know what they say about shapers ....
Just a tip. @8:40 move to tool steel, when removing chuck. I nearly slit my wrist one time. Was´nt pretty.
Nice video!
Interesting, I made a similar style tool post a year ago, I thought I had invented something new! Apparently not
PS enjoying your podcast :)
Top notch work in metal and video. Thanks for making and posting. Cheers!
Thanks for stopping by!
WITH !! ALL !! THAT !! HIGH !! END !! JUNK !! YOU COULD !! HAVE !! GONE !! AND !! BOUGHT !! TEN !! PLUS !!! Q.C !! POSTS !!!! AND ! HAD !! STILL !! HAD !! MISSERABLE !!! BRASS ;! IN !! YOUR !! POCKET !!!!
Absolute masterpiece! Cutting that slot on a band saw must have took some balls, especially after all the hours of work with the shaper. Speaking of balls, is there any way you can show us step by step on your manual ball turning technique? Or do you have a video on that?
Very nice can we see the drawings more often.
Отличная резцедержка!!! Класс!!!
Снизу конуса не хватает.
Hello Thecogwheel, my name is Pepe and I write from Spain. Do you have two questions? When did you buy a blue marker? What is the commercial name of a blue marker? this video is the most explicative to I can make to a quick change toolpost.
That came out wonderfully! It's a very clever design. Well produced video!
Thanks! I've used it now for about a week and I like it even more. Going to be making up a batch of holders over the next few weeks.
Awesome work!!
I understand how the slit expands with the downward pressure of the cone, but what keeps the tool post from rotating?
Want angle did you use for the cone to expand the dovetail. I see that it needs to be at least 17 degrees to be self releasing.
Thanks
Pete Mclaughlin
Hi Pete. Send me an email and we'll sort out the details on the drawing.
thecogwheel
HI
I sent $9.00 to Andy Lofquist for the plans to his MLA-23 so if you sent him a copy of your plans i may already have a copy coming to me. If not i would like to receive a copy of your plans as i am designing a QCTP to fit my 7x10 lathe. My email address is pete_mclaughlin_93555@yahoo.com.
Thanks
Pete
If you stop at 5:13 you can see the vents on the motor look to be plugged like 2/3 of them.
It's not. It's the angle of the camera and what you are seeing is the cooling fan inside the protective grate. From 5:04-5:06, you can see the impeller come to a stop.
Eagle eyed viewer :)
Well, I understand why you did it. But the need of holders are in the double digits. I use 17 at work and am about to get more of them. There should be one holder for every tool at least if you have the possibility to index them...
Very impressive machinery and tooling for a home shop. I haven't seen a shaper in many, many years. Very nice work also, you could work in my shop anytime. What are some of the machine manufacturers?
CRAP !!! AND CRAPPER !! EXCELLENT !! SHAPER !! THAT !! ONE !!
thanks cogwheel great vid
Thanks!
Awesome Video...very informative...thanks
Good fob!!! What is the angle of the inner cone? Tanks
ZERO ! DEGREES !
Good work mate!
Thank you!
thecogwheel: Thanks for your elegantly simple but sturdy design. If there was a way to make this design angular repeatable it would be as useful as Aloris, less expensive to build and more suitable for smaller lathes.
Thanks! There is room in the base for a locking pin or you could graduate the base with angular divisions. I was going to do this but the lack of repeatability doesn't really factor into the work I do.
Nice to know there's a way to do this. Repeatability is essential to me for multiple operations on same part such as turning, knurling, threading and parting off without changing angular position.
very nice work.
Thanks for watching.
Love your ball making tool. If anyone wants to make one of those, Clickspring shows the full process!
Отличная работа!
Does the post in the original as drawn plans fit standard store bought tool holders?
No, I don't think so. I think you could easily modify the dimension to hold AXA Aloris style holders though. That said the design does require a reasonable tolerance on the dovetail section to work properly. Some clone holders might have some loose tolerances as the Aloris style allows for more play I think.
thecogwheel I can see that, the aloris doesn't spread the dovetail like this one does. If the holder is a bit bigger, it may not grip it. I'm not against making things, but when import holders are cheap, I get lazy. Thanks for the response.
GET!! THE !! SLEDGEHAMMER !! THAT !! WILL !! MAKE !! IT !! FIT !! IN !! NO !! TIME !! AT !! ALL !!!!
Beautiful work. You must have practiced those ball plunges not to go too deep, but then they could be accent rings. Peter
Thanks Peter. Really appreciate it!
A work of art.
I love this toolpost. What do you mean by it having a 'lack of angular repeatability' though?
Thanks Luke. Regarding the angular repeatability - when you loosen the handle it allows the tool to change in both height and rotation. This is vastly different than the Aloris design - which usually requires a wrench to loosen the top nut to rotate the toolpost. The handle on the Aloris style is only for locking the tool in the vertical plane if that makes sense. So on this toolpost whenever you loosen the handle to change tools or adjust height you set the angle of the tool to the work. For some people this is a big deal since the toolpost changes a bit in position your dials (or digital read out) are not consistent from part to part. It really depends on what you do in your shop. For me height repeatability is the most important. I'm always adjusting the angular position of my toolpost anyway.
Thanks cogwheel, that's a very useful summary..;-)
I've thought about this. If you really need to stop the post from rotating, you could always reduce the height of the post itself. Mount it to a bigger, thicker base plate (think shaped like the Wi-Fi indicator on your computer) that can be immobilized to the cross slide via another tee bolt/nut combo, in an arcing slot cut on the mill. Pin the post with one locating pin to the base plate, dead opposite to the slit. Or a tab affixed to the back of the post somehow (welded, maybe) and bolted to the base plate.
LUKE !!! NOTHING !! CAN !! STOP !! THAT !! NOW !!!
Loved the end
FYI: The website domain for statecollegecentral.com has expired...
I have the same lathe b2227 good work .
Nice and Postly. Which part of Canuckistan do ewe hail from?
Awesome project and great video work! If I may though; the audio mixing could use some tweaks in the future. Your music and voice should be mixed to the same volume, and instead of just cutting the music when you do a voiceover, I'd consider fading it down very quiet, and then fading it back up after you speak!
Hallo, gute Idee
awesome video great work there... i love it.
thanks Steven!
Nice video, and the tool post is beautiful to look at. Is it for a Schaublin? Excellent work!
Thanks. It is for a Schaublin 102!
thecogwheel Just bought one! And will be looking to make a tool post like this. One question...can the tool holders be made out of aluminum, or is that not rigid enough?
Congrats! I don't see why aluminum couldn't be used. It will not be as rigid - aluminum's modulus of elasticity is about 1/3 of steel's. In practice you might not really notice depending on what you are doing.
muy bueno me suscribo saludos desde argentina
Great video, impressive.
bellissimo lavoro, good job
When the cutter on the shaper gets to the top bevel of the dovetail, does it cut on both sides, bottom and the 45* top?
It is ground with clearance so either you cut the bottom or the side.
Good work
Thank you!
Cool video man
Very nicely done, makes my production quality look like crap!
ATB, Robin
It's not perfect (nothing is - your measuring tools just don't have the precision :) ). I have a long way to go to even approach your skill. But the compliment is appreciated!
I was referring to the video production quality :)
LOL it makes sense now - had manufacturing engineer on the brain and when I read production ..... I thought it was an exceptionally gracious comment ... You work to at least one, more likely 2, orders of magnitude more precise than I do.