Having made a few vids and lived with professional videographers, I can conceive of the edge of how much time he puts into moving lighting and cameras, taking shots, checking, filming again, editing.... If you think Tony is patient with a time consuming machining process, you don't know the fifth of it.
I also canceled my NetFlix because they became too political. I also have not turned my TV on in almost 2 years now. Its You Tube all the way for me. TOT is not just entertaining but very informative. I would much rather soak my brain in good clean healthy knowledge than the negative political crap elsewhere.
Hi your threading tool comes from the former GDR (German Democratic Republic), i.e. from East Germany and has been made by VEB August-Bebel Werk. "VEB" is "Volkseigener Betrieb", which translates into "Publicly Owned Operation". As many other factories in the GDR this operation was named after a Marxist/Socialist politician, in this case August Bebel. Tools from East Germany tended to be of quite good quality. Kind regards Harald
+Tino J - in case you missed the news, the Berlin Wall was torn down almost 30 years ago. We now also have boats and planes that cross the Atlantic a few times every day. Seems like plenty of time for some items from the former GDR to have made their way over to the 'free world'.
A lot of East European and Russian tools went to the West, and the quality wasn't as bad as you might think - I had a Russian bench grinder in my shop, I can't tell you which brand because it was written in cyrillic, but it worked like a charm for many years.
I enjoy your style of videos. Funny wit with some clever editing, along with some really detailed explanation of what your doing. Like the analogy of the camp fire with watching the shaper. Nice work on the tool holders.
I absolutely love your videos and your sense of humor! Out of all the youtube machinists, I find your videos to be the most pleasant to watch. I know there are many great machinists out there but their videos concentrate just on the machining part. In my opinion, your videos have the perfect balance between entertainment and education/machining tips. I like to watch a couple of your videos every night before I go to bed... Please keep up with the great work and continue making videos!
GEORGE ZARIFIS, you said: "I absolutely love your videos and your sense of humor! Out of all the youtube machinists, I find your videos to be the most pleasant to watch. I know there are many great machinists out there but their videos concentrate just on the machining part. In my opinion, your videos have the perfect balance between entertainment and education/machining tips. I like to watch a couple of your videos every night before I go to bed... Please keep up with the great work and continue making videos!" I thought it was obvious. LOL
TV is garbage. 160 channels of nothing, and then they repeat it. (I have no idea how many channels; it could be 1600). An endless loop of garbage and brain rotting propaganda. Haven't had TV for over a decade.
Can't beat starting the day with a long TOT and short AvE video. Tony has by far the best metal parting techniques. I'd watch an entire video just on that. A+ for distance mounting too, that was an excellent toss.
Good one! Have to try that cold-gun-blue stuff, I tried the Ballistol stuff and it gives a pretty ugly, dirty look, not that nice gunmetal look... The Gewindeschneidfutter is a nice piece, made in GDR. Translation for it is btw "Spinn-em-a-thing".
8 лет назад
+Stefan Gotteswinter Ballistol works very well for conservation, not for surface finishing. It was developed to clean, lubricate and conserve the guns of the Second German Empire (1871-1918). for proper blueing take some hints here: www.galvaswiss.ch/korropedia/320%20Bruenieren.pdf given the relatively low price of the treatment mentioned in that document it might even be worth it, to send parts to be blued.
+Stefan Gotteswinter Never tried Ballistol, but these cold blues seem like a crap shoot. Cold blue is like a box of chocolates... except the blue part. Maybe. Wish I would've picked up a Spinnemathing sooner! Thanks Stefan.
your thread cutting tool appears to be from eastern Germany. there is the typical "WMW" logo on the box, also as some might have noticed it has spanish text on it which is a clear sign that it was made in Germany. so basically your tool cuts communist threads.
I think that the longer the stroke the happier the subject will be. A tight fit is always good and do not try to finish the job premature or you may end up with an unhappy finish. Lubrication of the tool and job is always very important as well as the gentle finish. LOL I am talking about using a Shaper! I don't know what you were thinking. Beautiful work Tony as well as fun to watch. Cheers from John, Australia.
Watching this with my wife (God bless her) I just said out loud "that's s good idea tony" in reference to your angled holder for HSS to provide automatic relief. Just wanted you to know. Keep up the good work!
Fun tip - if you don't need them blued in under an hour, there's a very easy and simple way to blue your parts that wears better than cold blue and is darker. Basically just thoroughly degrease your part, immerse it in distilled or very clean water (our tap water is runoff mountain water) and boil it. Let it cool and it will form a fine rust. Boil the part again to convert to black iron oxide, card it with OOOO steel wool or denim and repeat until you're happy. Overnight gives very fast results with just slightly matte finish, less time gives finer results, but requires more repetitions. It's that easy... Thanks again for the great videos!
Forgot to mention - this method is really sensitive to oils/grease as there's nothing really encouraging the rusting other than heating. Not really unusual for bluing, it's just a bit more finicky initially. Oddly enough I've never seen anyone else do it....
I think I've seen a method similar or the same, don't know for sure, but it was a video by Walter Sorrels here on youtube. He used it to put a black finish on a sword component.
Excellent video! I enjoy watching everything on your channel. In my experience, cold blueing works much better when you heat up the part briefly with a heat gun or torch to about 150 degrees F and then apply some blueing fallowed by going over it with some 0000 steel wool and repeating the process from the beginning a few times until you are satisfied with the color. This process has given me a darker blue.
when applying cold blue, try to brush it while inside the liquid... it works 100% better and you get black results in 3 minutes. if you just leave it inside, the oxidation is not uniform.
I'm wondering why you used the shaper instead of doing the entire dovetail operation on that fancy new mill. Well...not new now, but when you made this video it was new to you. Shurely the mill would have been quicker and gotten equal or better results.
stubled upon this older Video and just wanted to bring some Light in the dark with the tapping head. As commented before it is from a machine factory (WMW - Werkzeug Maschinen Werke which translates to tool machine factory) from East Germany (the former GDR) It was one of the few and to my knowledge the biggest machine Factory there back in the days. They still exist today and besides building machines to your specifications, they offer cnc conversion kits for their older machines. (still for big bucks - so no hobby type affordable) The writing on the side "Gewindebohrfutter" would most likely translate to "tapping head chuck" Love your Viedeos! I know you're going through a dark time now, but can't wait to have you back!
I don't know what part of the country you are located in but it seems you have good resources for the metal shapes and types locally. In my neck of the woods you are just simply screwed trying to locate any type of materials. When I was a lot younger some of the steel companies didn't have a minimum dollar amount and you could buy drops and shapes without any issues. Now that they are big shots you can't even get a price per pound. They forgot all of us small business folks who stayed loyal and bought from them. It's a sin to see the prices from these metal selling companies when you know that they are screwing your eyes out on price. 1 x 1 x 12ga square tubing was $0.41 per foot and you price the same on eBay or Metal For You BS and they want $6.00 to $8.00 per foot. It's like getting oxygen cylinders filled. You take a 244 cu.ft. cylinder that costs the welding supply $3.00 to fill because they have a plant on site that does it. A poor sap comes in to get it filled and they charge $40.00 and say I'll see you in another year but a buddy come in and you get yours filled for $11.00 and $32.00 for Argon when others pay $60.00 plus. No set prices that are fair it's all based on how much you can squeeze somebody. I have connections on my bottles and that's what I pay which might be higher than some but I think it's some what honest based on what you know it takes them to sell the gases for. I know this is a broken record but what source do you have to buy materials from, a steel supplier, a machine shop, a fab shop, or maybe the black-market underground. I know you are pouring your own. Oh, enjoyed your video, thanks
Say Tony we miss you and hope you and your family are well. I have been watching reruns and learning everyday looking forward to seeing you back on. I'm sure your father in-law is watching you from above and waiting as we all are. I know there's nothing I can do but if you need anything at all please let me know
I love the fact that TOT isn't selling us bunch of stuff or installing a bunch of adds so others can sell us stuff. I think TOT enjoys this as much as we do.
i gotta agree with the above comment- Im new to machining but have a background in photography/video- and your post-editing is really nice! Love the music choices... so yea- super informative and really fun to watch!
Great video Tony! I watched while having morning coffee and damn near blew coffee on my screen when you used the knife to cut the block into segments. Really good stuff. Liked the "dunk" of the tool on the post at the end! Thanks! Fred
Interesting ! Also made some tool post holders for my little Saupe lathe recently. Used Klever Schnellbrünierung- quick bluing. That came out pitch black like from factory... And square head screws to avoid to have always chips in the allen screws of cause...
Love your channel Tony. Specially your sense of humour. And love your editing. Must take a great deal of your time. To make these video's. I nearly choked on a ice lolly when I see you was cutting the parts with that knife. Just brilliant. You do make me laugh.
How critical is the choice of steel? Does it need to be hardened, either before or after machining? BTW, I love your videos - by far the best produced of the prolific content providers on youtube that I've run across. I've learned a lot from you and it seems like you always have already made a video for whatever it is I find myself needing to do next. Thanks and keep up the great work!
In 1992/3 I made a QCTP and tool holders for my 10" lathe from any bits of steel I had lying about. These were never hardened but I did blacken them. In 30 years the blackening has worn off in places but the tooling is in as good a shape as ever. The key to this is to have a dedicated brush that is only used to brush off the tool post and the holder EVERY time the tool holder is changed. Takes only 3 or so seconds but prolongs tool life tremendously. I use a cheap 2" paint brush; when worn I use it for general clean up and get a new brush for the QC tooling. I thought about the design and decided that a stronger assembly would have the female dovetail on the tool holder, and the male dovetail on the tool post. The tool holder is clamped securely to the tool post with a finger clamp that pulls on the inside of the rear dove tail surface (the one closest to the operator), thus pulling the holder tightly into the front dovetail surfaces of the tool post.
Shapers still have a place in the home shop. Besides cutting key-ways and dovetails I use mine for cleaning up and squaring torch-cut steel plate. Carbide milling inserts get chipped on such a job. ( Cha-ching $) A single point high-speed tool is easily and quickly re-sharpened. And yes, there is a certain Zen-like quality in operating one.
"Gewindebohrfutter" is a typical compound German word (like we have in Icelandic). I know that "Gewinde" means thread, "bohr" means drill, but they lost me at "futter" - my guess is holder or device or whatever...
Another bit of trivia for you Tony, old mate : your new/old tapping head is German, as is clear from the name on the box and the word "Gewindebohrfutter" means actually - wait for it - ... tapping head. Cheers.
In case you were wondering, the label on the box for the tapping head said "VEB August-Bebel-Werk", so from a public owned company (combine, actually) in old East Germany, pre 1990.
One of my first projects in high school machine shop was a vee block and matching clamp.I used a lathe,mill, shaper and surface grinder. It was cool watching the shaper cut some long chips.
Wow! As a dedicated viewer of all your new videos (2019), it’s amazing how far you’ve come in a few years in your video making. You have always been a wealth of information, but the specific personality and u inquest way of adding in humor in your most recent videos are what really add the enjoyment of your content. Not saying your older videos aren’t entertaining.
fantastic job, I'm learning on a grizzly bench top lathe and I love it. the math curve takes me way back. I remember saying I'll never need this much math in my life, well ya you do. lmbo. thank you got an excellent episode.
20:08 Woah ! A WMW ! That tapping head was imported from East Germany, and as the GDR, alongside all of the state owned companies was disbanded in 1990, that certainly old stock. Great stuff tho, most of my workshop, including my lathe was made by WMW.
I'm certainly not a machinist but like your `go make it energy` what size colchester is yours and what is a comfy aloris tool holder number you can suggest...for a 15 x 50 triumph lathe.? I dont have enogh yrs left to make tool holders...but just want to make chips fly ...haha
I think the reason the shaper is so interesting is that it's so slow. Most cutting machines in a shop are fairly fast, seeing it happen in a way that you can watch it happen is interesting.
This will likely strike you, and the rest of the general public as a "stupid" question, but here goes anyway. Why wouldn't you use a mill rather than the shaper for the dovetail? I am just getting into hobby machining, and tool holders for my qctp are a priority. That said, if I tell my wife, now that I have just acquired a mill, that I need a shaper, another machine, I might as well designate my "boy parts" as surplus. Great videos; and thanks for your patience.
The typical mill used by home machinists is not particularly rigid and as a professional machinist I find them all but unusable because they are so slow removing metal. The shaper being an all but obsolete machine is a cheap way to get some real muscle to cut flats and the like. When I was an apprentice I used a shaper to chamfer 20mm thick brass. 18mm x 30 degree in one pass. Brute strength all the way.
oh boy look guys a Professional Machinist has come down from his boeing shop to grace us with his presence. i didn't realize we were on the practical machinist forums.
as was also mentioned in the video, if you want to cut a dovetail with the mill you need a dovetail bit with the correct angle and depth for every different cut you might want to make, with the shaper you only need a bit that has the same or a smaller angle to make the dovetail, allowing for more versatility, and the tooling is as easy to make as for the lathe...
Extremely late reply, but, (two things) there are no stupid questions, but there are lots to which (when you don't have prior experience) the answers are not obvious... Look at the video at 2.59, pause it. View the dovetail of the right hand tool holder (the OEM one). There's a relief at the root, where it joins the main body of the holder. There is no cheaper and easier method of producing that relief than by shaping (or planing with larger, longer components) Any other method requires expensive tooling, and isn't as quick. Look at it this way, metal removal rates are dependent upon available power, and the ability to apply that power. How much power can be applied via the reduced shank portion of a dovetail cutter and the cutter portion? Very little, even if your machine has it. When I last ran a shaper, it had a 26" stroke, and 10 horsepower, and I could get quite a lot of that horsepower into the shaper tool, removing material rapidly, and when a tool dulled, I could sharpen it, offhand, without going to the toolroom. Rapid removal rates, plus rapid tool swaps and sharpening = high production rates. If you don't have a shaper, any machine you have that can do the job is quickest for you... The relief in question was to accommodate minor damage on the toolpost dovetail, damage which is inevitable when operators are working quickly. It would also allow clearance for a grindwheel, if the holder was to be so finished. Shapers are great tools. I was allowed to use one at school, (1966) aged 14, with little supervision, adjusting the cut while the clapperbox was moving back and forth. I look at my grandson, who's a little older, and think... Would I trust him, or many of his generation with a machine capable of ripping his hand off? NO!
the shaper cam/shaper shots are beautiful. There is a commonality between watching a campfire and watching a shaper peel an object from a block of steel. The slow, steady and exacting brilliance, a whisp of smoke and a chip-- pretty great,thanks tot.
its a gewindebohrfutter made in eastern germany. made latest 1990 but probably earlier. VEB stands for "Volkseigener Betrieb", something like "peoples owned factory".
Hot bluing is not that difficult and can be done with stuff you can buy in stores. Phosphating (parkerizing) is another quite easy process, but not very good looking IMO, and should be done on bead blasted surfaces, also gets it protection from soaking in oil, used on firearms in demanding situations. There's also fume bluing which is an easier to apply version of old fashioned rust bluing, done in multiple steps, but produces perhaps the most durable blued surface.
Hot Bluing is about as durable as fume bluing, but it does require you to get some pretty nasty stuff pretty hot. Hot sodium hydroxide solutions will etch glass if it's too concentrated. And fuming kinda really sucks, because you end up with hydrochloric acid fumes eating anything metallic nearby. And you still need to boil your steel afterwards.
Urgent advice needed.....when cutting steel stock into multiple sections with a kitchen knife, what advice or method can you give to getting square cuts as I don't have a mill or lathe or shaper or file to square any discrepancies. Thanks in advance. Ps have tried scraping with fingernails but is very tedious.
Hi Tony great video I remember when owning a shotgun i touched up the blue with philips gun blue but it came in a small jar looked like petroleum jelly but was pale blue i just rubbed it on with a small piece of cloth left it for about 30 minutes wiped it off and oiled it up it was then a much darker blue a light smear of the stuff did the job
I have gallons of Gun metal Green - 2 gallons clean and 2 used once. Heat in pot over camp stove and let the parts simmer. It is a form of rust. Just not pure O rust.
Has anyone made a tool post holder with a differential screw height adjustment? ...or would that be like putting a swiss watch mechanism in a torque wrench? Maybe I should ask: Are differential screw adjustments put in anything at all?
Something that may have affected your blueing is your steel wool. Most steel wool has been oiled to help it from rusting away to nothing. Rinsing it with acetone prior to use and re-oiling with WD-40 works well. As a side note Singer Sewing machine oil was some of the highest grade and most refined oil made before synthetics. So many old Singer machines still show almost no signs of wear or excess clearance after seeing generations of work.
I tried cold bluing steel parts, but didn't like the results and the time it took, so I tried the cold black oxide kit from Caswell, and LOVE IT! Parts are blacker than the Ace of Spades in under a minute, and the kit came with two quarts of penetrating oil sealer. I bought the kit 6 years ago, and it still works great, and I've used up only one quart of the sealer. Not trying to plug Caswell, but black oxide for tooling and non-gun parts is the way to go, imho.
A little tip on the bluing. Glass bead sand blast, raw rubbing alcohol for decreasing, apply 100% cold blue with a clean cloth, use a fine steel wool to rub it in, adding more blue as needed for color, and finally add a combination of motor oil, 3n1,and transmission fluid to stop the bluing. Wipe clean. I've done this with various types of firearms, and the effect is excellent. I prefer hot bluing, or rust bluing, but for tooling, this is the easiest and best at corrosion resistance, while still looking excellent.
You should try the hot bluing method. There are a lot of videos on youtube on it, and I have tried it myself and as soon as you get around the fact that you have a mixture og potassium nitrate and lye heated up to around 155 degrees C, it is actually quite easy to work with. I used it to restore some old adjustable spanners, some measuring tools and a few gunparts, and it leaves a really nice black color. Sandblast or beadblast the surface for a nice dull black, or polish away for a nice shiny black. And it is way more durable than the cold bluing is. And the surface soaks up a little bit of oil, for corrosion resistance. Just dont get it on you skin, and keep the kid far far away from it! You will know quite quickly if any of it splashes on your skin, belive me...
I got some of that cold blue stuff too, because of this video. I just used it straight out of the bottle, and the result was perfect :) I used a thin painters brush to poke the parts, don't stroke over them, just poke at the parts where the blue isn't reacting properly.
That was one of the best three-pointers I've ever seen! BTW, how did that bluing went from a rough blotched brown to a nice gun tone? Not with the same stuff, I bet :-) Great video, as always!
Great work, as always. One Question: Why didn't you have to square up the raw material before cutting the dovetail? Won't the rough surfaces on the side affect parallelism between the dovetailside and the backside? Or is that not relevant? Edit: Nevermind, got it
Terrific build Tony. Editing was awesome, particularly that fade to finish with the rougher...Lots of work to do that smoothly! Also got a lot from your shaper use and its versatility for something like this, nice chips too. I notice on your hand feeding in there was a slight back feed then deeper. Seems counter to keeping backlash to a minimum? Thanks for sharing the way you think about metrology and sequence of Ops, it adds so much quality content! Another fine breakfast with a champion!! Much appreciated. ~PJ
+pjsalchemy Thanks PJ. any backfeeding was not intentional. Maybe optical illusion? I let my hand slip 'round as the shaper moves forward.. or I try to anyway. :)
I’m working my way through your videos a second time, and I’m just floored by your cinematography combined with your technical ability. Where do you get the drive to raise kids, do this kind of work, AND run a youtube channel with well shot, well edited, quality content? By the end of the work day, I’m pretty well dead when it comes to working on projects. What do you do when you’re feeling unmotivated? Thanks for all the amazing content.
Nice project. You, Stefan. Tom, and a few others have me thinking I want shaper. Precision Brand Tool Black works really well. The trick is to buff with steel wool between applications before oiling. It evens out the finish and helps to expose untreated areas which gives a darker finish.
omg... what a time consuming method :( it drives me so crazy :) :) :) btw: Gewindebohrfutter is german. - you have a really nice product out of the former German Democratic Republic there.
Hi Tony, I like the video´s of your work and especially the cinematic touch and your special sort of humor... I´ll try to enjoy every single aspect and there´s one important question that I want to ask you: I´ve seen your particular machine vise with a swivel head that has a flat side and some v-shaped horizontal and vertical grooved sides (prisms) on it! I´ve tried to find some informations about this vise, but can´t find anything. So I hope you will help - in worst case you´ve done it DIY and I have to do so too. Thanks for a short answer and go on...
I can’t thank you enough for all the entertainment you have provided throughout this last 12 months. Please accept my very best wishes for Christmas and the New Year and please keep up the good work. My most favourite RUclips channel.
i run an AXA Aloris quick change tool holder. Shars has the holders for like $18 each delivered. i don't see me ever making my own. my time is worth way more than $18 each.
you are without a doubt fan freakin tastic!!! I love the cutting metal with a knife, and the way you just threw the tool holder on, and I betcha you did that on the first try?!!! LOL thanks Tony mike
I think it is a very interesting video because when I was young I worked with these machines and it reminds me of those times I am seeing that you have experience in machining parts and this is very nice to watch on youtube I am art to see people making videos without having knowledge of machines. My congratulations on the video Angel from Spain
Good morning Tony: please would you have the measurements to use on a mechanical bench vise? My little lathe is a Sanches Blaner. If you can help with the measures, thank you in advance.
hi. this "Gewindebohrfutter" is german language. It says something like "drill tap chuck". It was produced in former Eastern democratic repuplic. Zella-Mehlis in germany is near my home in state thuringia
T.O.T. is probably aware of this. You must understand his sense of humor is quite subtle at times. Sometimes I watch one of his videos without showing emotion, only to collapse in laughter hours later.
There is a real art to using a shaper; if you really want to see what can be done with one by a very skilled operator there is a video of one being used to make shaping dies for MONO flatware.
it may say cold blue on the bottle, Heat the part with something like say a Heat gun or a hair dryer. I like to warm the part. before putting cold blue on it. and when you pull it out heat that puppy till it smokes, then put some good oil on it.
I wish these videos were movie length. Then I could cancel my Netflix subscription.
Having made a few vids and lived with professional videographers, I can conceive of the edge of how much time he puts into moving lighting and cameras, taking shots, checking, filming again, editing.... If you think Tony is patient with a time consuming machining process, you don't know the fifth of it.
I did, cancel my NetFlix subscription. When I watch anything now, it's youtube machining videos, as I try to get a small home shop set up.
I also canceled my NetFlix because they became too political. I also have not turned my TV on in almost 2 years now. Its You Tube all the way for me. TOT is not just entertaining but very informative. I would much rather soak my brain in good clean healthy knowledge than the negative political crap elsewhere.
YES!!
Not sure my missus would go with that option, but good thinking!
The tapping head does not reverse because it is from the GDR. Always forward, never backwards!
Yesterday we stood on the cliffs edge, today we are a step ahead?
"Immer vorvärts!"...😁
@@jan-agelundman5435
"Vorwärts immer, rückwärts nimmer!"
@@dinolino3313 Immer bereit!
Forwards, not backwards.
Sideways, not forwards.
And allways twirling, twirling, twirling towards freedom!
Hi
your threading tool comes from the former GDR (German Democratic Republic), i.e. from East Germany and has been made by VEB August-Bebel Werk.
"VEB" is "Volkseigener Betrieb", which translates into "Publicly Owned Operation".
As many other factories in the GDR this operation was named after a Marxist/Socialist politician, in this case August Bebel.
Tools from East Germany tended to be of quite good quality.
Kind regards
Harald
i just wondered how a east german tool made its way across the atlantic. considering the cold war and everything.
+Tino J - in case you missed the news, the Berlin Wall was torn down almost 30 years ago. We now also have boats and planes that cross the Atlantic a few times every day. Seems like plenty of time for some items from the former GDR to have made their way over to the 'free world'.
A lot of East European and Russian tools went to the West, and the quality wasn't as bad as you might think - I had a Russian bench grinder in my shop, I can't tell you which brand because it was written in cyrillic, but it worked like a charm for many years.
Tino J This Old Tony lives across the Atlantic? I thought he lived somewhere in Europe.
Just because its called east germany doesn´t mean its east europe.
I enjoy your style of videos. Funny wit with some clever editing, along with some really detailed explanation of what your doing. Like the analogy of the camp fire with watching the shaper. Nice work on the tool holders.
+🔥Ramsey Customs - turbocobra Thanks Ramsey!
I absolutely love your videos and your sense of humor! Out of all the youtube machinists, I find your videos to be the most pleasant to watch. I know there are many great machinists out there but their videos concentrate just on the machining part. In my opinion, your videos have the perfect balance between entertainment and education/machining tips. I like to watch a couple of your videos every night before I go to bed... Please keep up with the great work and continue making videos!
Thank you George!
What he said ⇧
InnerBushman What did I say?
GEORGE ZARIFIS, you said:
"I absolutely love your videos and your sense of humor! Out of all the
youtube machinists, I find your videos to be the most pleasant to watch.
I know there are many great machinists out there but their videos
concentrate just on the machining part. In my opinion, your videos have
the perfect balance between entertainment and education/machining tips. I
like to watch a couple of your videos every night before I go to bed...
Please keep up with the great work and continue making videos!"
I thought it was obvious. LOL
InnerBushman Oh, I see. Didn't realise I said that...
I watch your videos instead of mindless TV... Much more entertaining and I learn tons of stuff. Thank you!
Jbpohbkj
TV is garbage. 160 channels of nothing, and then they repeat it. (I have no idea how many channels; it could be 1600). An endless loop of garbage and brain rotting propaganda. Haven't had TV for over a decade.
I do that too, TV is boring crap.
Can't beat starting the day with a long TOT and short AvE video. Tony has by far the best metal parting techniques. I'd watch an entire video just on that. A+ for distance mounting too, that was an excellent toss.
I've said it before, but your editing technique is very outstanding!
BS in The Shop and it’s even better now!
I want that knife of yours so that I can sell off my 4" bandsaw to buy more stuff!!!
The packaging was german and from my (small) hometown! Very nice
Good one! Have to try that cold-gun-blue stuff, I tried the Ballistol stuff and it gives a pretty ugly, dirty look, not that nice gunmetal look...
The Gewindeschneidfutter is a nice piece, made in GDR. Translation for it is btw "Spinn-em-a-thing".
+Stefan Gotteswinter Ballistol works very well for conservation, not for surface finishing. It was developed to clean, lubricate and conserve the guns of the Second German Empire (1871-1918).
for proper blueing take some hints here: www.galvaswiss.ch/korropedia/320%20Bruenieren.pdf
given the relatively low price of the treatment mentioned in that document it might even be worth it, to send parts to be blued.
+Stefan Gotteswinter Never tried Ballistol, but these cold blues seem like a crap shoot. Cold blue is like a box of chocolates... except the blue part. Maybe. Wish I would've picked up a Spinnemathing sooner! Thanks Stefan.
your thread cutting tool appears to be from eastern Germany. there is the typical "WMW" logo on the box, also as some might have noticed it has spanish text on it which is a clear sign that it was made in Germany. so basically your tool cuts communist threads.
Commie threads😂😂😂😂😂
Only 5 years ago, and you sound like a 20 year old. xD Adorable!
I've heard that intro before, right at 0:12. Where is that from?
There are two kinds of men in this world. Those that have a shaper, And those that are envious of men who have a shaper.
+God of Thunder (UKKONEN) Don't hate me because i'm shapeautiful. :)
I think that the longer the stroke the happier the subject will be. A tight fit is always good and do not try to finish the job premature or you may end up with an unhappy finish. Lubrication of the tool and job is always very important as well as the gentle finish. LOL I am talking about using a Shaper! I don't know what you were thinking. Beautiful work Tony as well as fun to watch. Cheers from John, Australia.
This Old Tony Ukkonen mentioned! 🇫🇮
You should do more shaper projects so we can watch them. Getting myself also a small shaper next week btw
Watching this with my wife (God bless her) I just said out loud "that's s good idea tony" in reference to your angled holder for HSS to provide automatic relief. Just wanted you to know. Keep up the good work!
+Morgan Oliff Good to have you and the wife watching!
Fun tip - if you don't need them blued in under an hour, there's a very easy and simple way to blue your parts that wears better than cold blue and is darker. Basically just thoroughly degrease your part, immerse it in distilled or very clean water (our tap water is runoff mountain water) and boil it. Let it cool and it will form a fine rust. Boil the part again to convert to black iron oxide, card it with OOOO steel wool or denim and repeat until you're happy. Overnight gives very fast results with just slightly matte finish, less time gives finer results, but requires more repetitions. It's that easy...
Thanks again for the great videos!
Thanks HW!
Forgot to mention - this method is really sensitive to oils/grease as there's nothing really encouraging the rusting other than heating. Not really unusual for bluing, it's just a bit more finicky initially. Oddly enough I've never seen anyone else do it....
I think I've seen a method similar or the same, don't know for sure, but it was a video by Walter Sorrels here on youtube. He used it to put a black finish on a sword component.
H Wal. a
ruclips.net/video/vuP4m6L95K4/видео.html
Very nice pieces. Man, that cut-off knife is cool.
Almost as cool as Ichiban Moto's diamond shears.
Excellent video! I enjoy watching everything on your channel.
In my experience, cold blueing works much better when you heat up the part briefly with a heat gun or torch to about 150 degrees F and then apply some blueing fallowed by going over it with some 0000 steel wool and repeating the process from the beginning a few times until you are satisfied with the color. This process has given me a darker blue.
thanks, I'll be sure to try that!
when applying cold blue, try to brush it while inside the liquid... it works 100% better and you get black results in 3 minutes. if you just leave it inside, the oxidation is not uniform.
I'm wondering why you used the shaper instead of doing the entire dovetail operation on that fancy new mill. Well...not new now, but when you made this video it was new to you. Shurely the mill would have been quicker and gotten equal or better results.
stubled upon this older Video and just wanted to bring some Light in the dark with the tapping head. As commented before it is from a machine factory (WMW - Werkzeug Maschinen Werke which translates to tool machine factory) from East Germany (the former GDR) It was one of the few and to my knowledge the biggest machine Factory there back in the days. They still exist today and besides building machines to your specifications, they offer cnc conversion kits for their older machines. (still for big bucks - so no hobby type affordable)
The writing on the side "Gewindebohrfutter" would most likely translate to "tapping head chuck"
Love your Viedeos! I know you're going through a dark time now, but can't wait to have you back!
I don't know what part of the country you are located in but it seems you have good resources for the metal shapes and types locally. In my neck of the woods you are just simply screwed trying to locate any type of materials. When I was a lot younger some of the steel companies didn't have a minimum dollar amount and you could buy drops and shapes without any issues. Now that they are big shots you can't even get a price per pound. They forgot all of us small business folks who stayed loyal and bought from them. It's a sin to see the prices from these metal selling companies when you know that they are screwing your eyes out on price. 1 x 1 x 12ga square tubing was $0.41 per foot and you price the same on eBay or Metal For You BS and they want $6.00 to $8.00 per foot. It's like getting oxygen cylinders filled. You take a 244 cu.ft. cylinder that costs the welding supply $3.00 to fill because they have a plant on site that does it. A poor sap comes in to get it filled and they charge $40.00 and say I'll see you in another year but a buddy come in and you get yours filled for $11.00 and $32.00 for Argon when others pay $60.00 plus. No set prices that are fair it's all based on how much you can squeeze somebody. I have connections on my bottles and that's what I pay which might be higher than some but I think it's some what honest based on what you know it takes them to sell the gases for. I know this is a broken record but what source do you have to buy materials from, a steel supplier, a machine shop, a fab shop, or maybe the black-market underground. I know you are pouring your own. Oh, enjoyed your video, thanks
Say Tony we miss you and hope you and your family are well.
I have been watching reruns and learning everyday looking forward to seeing you back on.
I'm sure your father in-law is watching you from above and waiting as we all are.
I know there's nothing I can do but if you need anything at all please let me know
"Gewindebohrfutter" is german for "Threadchuck" or "Threadingchuck".
Gewindebohrfutter ist deutsch ... German = Threaded drill Chuck^^
Emanhcan Emanrov Thanks Kapitän Obvious xD
it's really relaxing...watching someone else work
Love the light-hearted nature of your videos, great sense of humor, very enjoyable. One of my favorite channels, great job!
+bensbenz Thanks for watching Benbenz.. also my favorite channel. :)
I love the fact that TOT isn't selling us bunch of stuff or installing a bunch of adds so others can sell us stuff. I think TOT enjoys this as much as we do.
That shaper is mesmerizing...I fell asleep to it and when I woke up the cat had eaten my mouse...
your videos are amazing
Thanks!
i gotta agree with the above comment- Im new to machining but have a background in photography/video- and your post-editing is really nice! Love the music choices... so yea- super informative and really fun to watch!
Great video Tony! I watched while having morning coffee and damn near blew coffee on my screen when you used the knife to cut the block into segments. Really good stuff. Liked the "dunk" of the tool on the post at the end! Thanks! Fred
+Fred Miller Thanks Fred -- always good to have you.
Interesting ! Also made some tool post holders for my little Saupe lathe recently. Used Klever Schnellbrünierung- quick bluing. That came out pitch black like from factory... And square head screws to avoid to have always chips in the allen screws of cause...
Love your channel Tony. Specially your sense of humour. And love your editing. Must take a great deal of your time. To make these video's. I nearly choked on a ice lolly when I see you was cutting the parts with that knife. Just brilliant. You do make me laugh.
How critical is the choice of steel? Does it need to be hardened, either before or after machining? BTW, I love your videos - by far the best produced of the prolific content providers on youtube that I've run across. I've learned a lot from you and it seems like you always have already made a video for whatever it is I find myself needing to do next. Thanks and keep up the great work!
not critical for tool holders but the harder it is the longer they last.
In 1992/3 I made a QCTP and tool holders for my 10" lathe from any bits of steel I had lying about. These were never hardened but I did blacken them. In 30 years the blackening has worn off in places but the tooling is in as good a shape as ever.
The key to this is to have a dedicated brush that is only used to brush off the tool post and the holder EVERY time the tool holder is changed. Takes only 3 or so seconds but prolongs tool life tremendously. I use a cheap 2" paint brush; when worn I use it for general clean up and get a new brush for the QC tooling.
I thought about the design and decided that a stronger assembly would have the female dovetail on the tool holder, and the male dovetail on the tool post. The tool holder is clamped securely to the tool post with a finger clamp that pulls on the inside of the rear dove tail surface (the one closest to the operator), thus pulling the holder tightly into the front dovetail surfaces of the tool post.
why shaper over mill? i haven't figured that tool out yet! :)
Mostly because I have one :) For long straight cuts like that the shaper is fun to use and tooling is much cheaper.
This Old Tony That makes sense. Thanks for the reply!!
Always fun to watch some older TOT before a milling machine was the solution to taking stock square and cutting interesting shapes. What a treat!
Shapers still have a place in the home shop.
Besides cutting key-ways and dovetails I use mine for cleaning up and squaring torch-cut steel plate.
Carbide milling inserts get chipped on such a job. ( Cha-ching $)
A single point high-speed tool is easily and quickly re-sharpened.
And yes, there is a certain Zen-like quality in operating one.
"Gewindebohrfutter" is a typical compound German word (like we have in Icelandic). I know that "Gewinde" means thread, "bohr" means drill, but they lost me at "futter" - my guess is holder or device or whatever...
"Futter" actually is the chuck. So a "Bohrfutter" is a drill chuck. So actually you were about right :D
Hey, great FIFA 2018 by the way. That Viking Thunderclap was the stuff of legend.
Another bit of trivia for you Tony, old mate : your new/old tapping head is German, as is clear from the name on the box and the word "Gewindebohrfutter" means actually - wait for it - ... tapping head.
Cheers.
In case you were wondering, the label on the box for the tapping head said "VEB August-Bebel-Werk", so from a public owned company (combine, actually) in old East Germany, pre 1990.
Try Van’s Gun Blue.
Heat the part a little before you blue it with the Van’s and you can make it very dark.
I use vans
One of my first projects in high school machine shop was a vee block and matching clamp.I used a lathe,mill, shaper and surface grinder. It was cool watching the shaper cut some long chips.
Dear tony, please for the love of god never make steel wink at me again. thanks. 10/10.
Wow! As a dedicated viewer of all your new videos (2019), it’s amazing how far you’ve come in a few years in your video making. You have always been a wealth of information, but the specific personality and u inquest way of adding in humor in your most recent videos are what really add the enjoyment of your content. Not saying your older videos aren’t entertaining.
Great video as always. Where do I buy my $35 tapping head? :)
fantastic job, I'm learning on a grizzly bench top lathe and I love it. the math curve takes me way back. I remember saying I'll never need this much math in my life, well ya you do. lmbo. thank you got an excellent episode.
20:08 Woah ! A WMW ! That tapping head was imported from East Germany, and as the GDR, alongside all of the state owned companies was disbanded in 1990, that certainly old stock. Great stuff tho, most of my workshop, including my lathe was made by WMW.
I'm certainly not a machinist but like your `go make it energy` what size colchester is yours and what is a comfy aloris tool holder number you can suggest...for a 15 x 50 triumph lathe.?
I dont have enogh yrs left to make tool holders...but just want to make chips fly ...haha
I think the reason the shaper is so interesting is that it's so slow. Most cutting machines in a shop are fairly fast, seeing it happen in a way that you can watch it happen is interesting.
This will likely strike you, and the rest of the general public as a "stupid" question, but here goes anyway. Why wouldn't you use a mill rather than the shaper for the dovetail? I am just getting into hobby machining, and tool holders for my qctp are a priority. That said, if I tell my wife, now that I have just acquired a mill, that I need a shaper, another machine, I might as well designate my "boy parts" as surplus. Great videos; and thanks for your patience.
He used the shaper basically because he could... mill is fine and probably a lot faster.
The typical mill used by home machinists is not particularly rigid and as a professional machinist I find them all but unusable because they are so slow removing metal. The shaper being an all but obsolete machine is a cheap way to get some real muscle to cut flats and the like. When I was an apprentice I used a shaper to chamfer 20mm thick brass. 18mm x 30 degree in one pass. Brute strength all the way.
oh boy look guys a Professional Machinist has come down from his boeing shop to grace us with his presence. i didn't realize we were on the practical machinist forums.
as was also mentioned in the video, if you want to cut a dovetail with the mill you need a dovetail bit with the correct angle and depth for every different cut you might want to make, with the shaper you only need a bit that has the same or a smaller angle to make the dovetail, allowing for more versatility, and the tooling is as easy to make as for the lathe...
Extremely late reply, but, (two things) there are no stupid questions, but there are lots to which (when you don't have prior experience) the answers are not obvious...
Look at the video at 2.59, pause it. View the dovetail of the right hand tool holder (the OEM one). There's a relief at the root, where it joins the main body of the holder. There is no cheaper and easier method of producing that relief than by shaping (or planing with larger, longer components) Any other method requires expensive tooling, and isn't as quick.
Look at it this way, metal removal rates are dependent upon available power, and the ability to apply that power. How much power can be applied via the reduced shank portion of a dovetail cutter and the cutter portion? Very little, even if your machine has it. When I last ran a shaper, it had a 26" stroke, and 10 horsepower, and I could get quite a lot of that horsepower into the shaper tool, removing material rapidly, and when a tool dulled, I could sharpen it, offhand, without going to the toolroom. Rapid removal rates, plus rapid tool swaps and sharpening = high production rates. If you don't have a shaper, any machine you have that can do the job is quickest for you...
The relief in question was to accommodate minor damage on the toolpost dovetail, damage which is inevitable when operators are working quickly. It would also allow clearance for a grindwheel, if the holder was to be so finished.
Shapers are great tools. I was allowed to use one at school, (1966) aged 14, with little supervision, adjusting the cut while the clapperbox was moving back and forth. I look at my grandson, who's a little older, and think... Would I trust him, or many of his generation with a machine capable of ripping his hand off? NO!
the shaper cam/shaper shots are beautiful. There is a commonality between watching a campfire and watching a shaper peel an object from a block of steel. The slow, steady and exacting brilliance, a whisp of smoke and a chip-- pretty great,thanks tot.
its a gewindebohrfutter made in eastern germany. made latest 1990 but probably earlier. VEB stands for
"Volkseigener Betrieb",
something like "peoples owned factory".
Would be posible to use pure selenium dioxide? Perhaps getting from a chemistry?
Hot bluing is not that difficult and can be done with stuff you can buy in stores. Phosphating (parkerizing) is another quite easy process, but not very good looking IMO, and should be done on bead blasted surfaces, also gets it protection from soaking in oil, used on firearms in demanding situations. There's also fume bluing which is an easier to apply version of old fashioned rust bluing, done in multiple steps, but produces perhaps the most durable blued surface.
Hot Bluing is about as durable as fume bluing, but it does require you to get some pretty nasty stuff pretty hot. Hot sodium hydroxide solutions will etch glass if it's too concentrated. And fuming kinda really sucks, because you end up with hydrochloric acid fumes eating anything metallic nearby. And you still need to boil your steel afterwards.
Urgent advice needed.....when cutting steel stock into multiple sections with a kitchen knife, what advice or method can you give to getting square cuts as I don't have a mill or lathe or shaper or file to square any discrepancies. Thanks in advance. Ps have tried scraping with fingernails but is very tedious.
Use Birchwood Casey's cold blue. Stuffs expensive....but it instantly turns your parts straight black
Hi Tony great video I remember when owning a shotgun i touched up the blue with philips gun blue but it came in a small jar looked like petroleum jelly but was pale blue i just rubbed it on with a small piece of cloth left it for about 30 minutes wiped it off and oiled it up it was then a much darker blue a light smear of the stuff did the job
I have gallons of Gun metal Green - 2 gallons clean and 2 used once. Heat in pot over camp stove and let the parts simmer. It is a form of rust. Just not pure O rust.
For some reason, the sound of the shaper reminds me of the tardis from doctor who.
Has anyone made a tool post holder with a differential screw height adjustment? ...or would that be like putting a swiss watch mechanism in a torque wrench? Maybe I should ask: Are differential screw adjustments put in anything at all?
Thats a overkill,a fine thread screw is all you need.
Something that may have affected your blueing is your steel wool. Most steel wool has been oiled to help it from rusting away to nothing. Rinsing it with acetone prior to use and re-oiling with WD-40 works well. As a side note Singer Sewing machine oil was some of the highest grade and most refined oil made before synthetics. So many old Singer machines still show almost no signs of wear or excess clearance after seeing generations of work.
Gewindebohrfutter is German and translated word for word it says "thread chuck"
I tried cold bluing steel parts, but didn't like the results and the time it took, so I tried the cold black oxide kit from Caswell, and LOVE IT! Parts are blacker than the Ace of Spades in under a minute, and the kit came with two quarts of penetrating oil sealer. I bought the kit 6 years ago, and it still works great, and I've used up only one quart of the sealer. Not trying to plug Caswell, but black oxide for tooling and non-gun parts is the way to go, imho.
Absolutely correct in my experience.
Hey younger old Tony, I just stopped by from the future to re-watch some of your classics.
A little tip on the bluing. Glass bead sand blast, raw rubbing alcohol for decreasing, apply 100% cold blue with a clean cloth, use a fine steel wool to rub it in, adding more blue as needed for color, and finally add a combination of motor oil, 3n1,and transmission fluid to stop the bluing. Wipe clean.
I've done this with various types of firearms, and the effect is excellent. I prefer hot bluing, or rust bluing, but for tooling, this is the easiest and best at corrosion resistance, while still looking excellent.
gave u thumbs up for the funny part at 16:00
Thanks!
This Old Tony
You should try the hot bluing method. There are a lot of videos on youtube on it, and I have tried it myself and as soon as you get around the fact that you have a mixture og potassium nitrate and lye heated up to around 155 degrees C, it is actually quite easy to work with. I used it to restore some old adjustable spanners, some measuring tools and a few gunparts, and it leaves a really nice black color.
Sandblast or beadblast the surface for a nice dull black, or polish away for a nice shiny black. And it is way more durable than the cold bluing is. And the surface soaks up a little bit of oil, for corrosion resistance.
Just dont get it on you skin, and keep the kid far far away from it! You will know quite quickly if any of it splashes on your skin, belive me...
I got some of that cold blue stuff too, because of this video. I just used it straight out of the bottle, and the result was perfect :) I used a thin painters brush to poke the parts, don't stroke over them, just poke at the parts where the blue isn't reacting properly.
it is german! and means tapping chuck! trust me ;)
That was one of the best three-pointers I've ever seen! BTW, how did that bluing went from a rough blotched brown to a nice gun tone? Not with the same stuff, I bet :-)
Great video, as always!
Great work, as always. One Question: Why didn't you have to square up the raw material before cutting the dovetail? Won't the rough surfaces on the side affect parallelism between the dovetailside and the backside? Or is that not relevant?
Edit: Nevermind, got it
Great work. Thanks for the images in slow/fast motion. I enjoyed it alot.
Terrific build Tony. Editing was awesome, particularly that fade to finish with the rougher...Lots of work to do that smoothly! Also got a lot from your shaper use and its versatility for something like this, nice chips too. I notice on your hand feeding in there was a slight back feed then deeper. Seems counter to keeping backlash to a minimum? Thanks for sharing the way you think about metrology and sequence of Ops, it adds so much quality content! Another fine breakfast with a champion!! Much appreciated. ~PJ
+pjsalchemy Thanks PJ. any backfeeding was not intentional. Maybe optical illusion? I let my hand slip 'round as the shaper moves forward.. or I try to anyway. :)
I love watching your videos. Takes me back fifty years and more. I do love watching the shaper, it's such a versatile piece of gear..
I’m working my way through your videos a second time, and I’m just floored by your cinematography combined with your technical ability. Where do you get the drive to raise kids, do this kind of work, AND run a youtube channel with well shot, well edited, quality content?
By the end of the work day, I’m pretty well dead when it comes to working on projects. What do you do when you’re feeling unmotivated?
Thanks for all the amazing content.
Do the tool holders need to be heat treated?
Nice project. You, Stefan. Tom, and a few others have me thinking I want shaper. Precision Brand Tool Black works really well. The trick is to buff with steel wool between applications before oiling. It evens out the finish and helps to expose untreated areas which gives a darker finish.
Thanks Robert, I'll have to look into that.
omg... what a time consuming method :(
it drives me so crazy :) :) :)
btw: Gewindebohrfutter is german. - you have a really nice product out of the former German Democratic Republic there.
Hi Tony,
I like the video´s of your work and especially the cinematic touch and your special sort of humor...
I´ll try to enjoy every single aspect and there´s one important question that I want to ask you: I´ve seen your particular machine vise with a swivel head that has a flat side and some v-shaped horizontal and vertical grooved sides (prisms) on it! I´ve tried to find some informations about this vise, but can´t find anything. So I hope you will help - in worst case you´ve done it DIY and I have to do so too.
Thanks for a short answer and go on...
I can’t thank you enough for all the entertainment you have provided throughout this last 12 months. Please accept my very best wishes for Christmas and the New Year and please keep up the good work. My most favourite RUclips channel.
i run an AXA Aloris quick change tool holder. Shars has the holders for like $18 each delivered. i don't see me ever making my own. my time is worth way more than $18 each.
you are without a doubt fan freakin tastic!!! I love the cutting metal with a knife, and the way you just threw the tool holder on, and I betcha you did that on the first try?!!! LOL thanks Tony mike
Love your English sense of humour.
WHAT! You're transatlantic. Oh well, no one's perfect. :>(
Keep 'em coming.
Always a joy to watch your vids.
+Francis Barnett Seconded.... I love This old tonys vids. So rich and such good humor! Thanks for all the hard work bud!
+Ben Brown Why thank you both!
@6:31 Perfect Fx for a tool making horror movie, a ToolFi if you will.
20:42 "tapping chucks" by google transalate (its in german)
That's just BRILLIANT work Tony, keep it up ! Best machining videos on RUclips so far, and great editing !
Thank yoU!
Gewindebohrfutter is German for Tapping chuck.
It's interesting how you set up and used your shaper. You have encouraged me to clean up and start using mine, when the weather permits.
its german ^^
i know that because i am german and "gewindebohrfutter" means thread drill chuck
gewindebohrfutter is actually german, gewinde means thread and bohrfutter means drill chuck
I think it is a very interesting video because when I was young I worked with these machines and it reminds me of those times I am seeing that you have experience in machining parts and this is very nice to watch on youtube I am art to see people making videos without having knowledge of machines. My congratulations on the video Angel from Spain
Its an East German Tool ;)
It was made in the GDR
That's why it doesn't reverse. Ist Mist Das Dumkoffenhausers.
Good morning Tony: please would you have the measurements to use on a mechanical bench vise? My little lathe is a Sanches Blaner. If you can help with the measures, thank you in advance.
'Gewindebohrfutter' is german and the direct translation would be something like 'thread drilling chuck'
All you guys know he was kidding... right?
Haha, I went down to the comments just to read if somebody had misunderstood the joke of the "Spanish" word :)
Good video on shaper , I have not run a shaper since 1970 -71 seems like they through chips everywhere.
That shaper is an awesome machine.
Hey Adam!! Look at the size of his shaper!! Isn't it cute?! :-) (Hopefully most of you will get it).
Kidding aside, that is an awesome shaper!
Backpocket shaper 🤣
hi. this "Gewindebohrfutter" is german language. It says something like "drill tap chuck". It was produced in former Eastern democratic repuplic. Zella-Mehlis in germany is near my home in state thuringia
T.O.T. is probably aware of this.
You must understand his sense of humor is quite subtle at times.
Sometimes I watch one of his videos without showing emotion, only to collapse in laughter hours later.
There is a real art to using a shaper; if you really want to see what can be done with one by a very skilled operator there is a video of one being used to make shaping dies for MONO flatware.
it may say cold blue on the bottle, Heat the part with something like say a Heat gun or a hair dryer. I like to warm the part. before putting cold blue on it. and when you pull it out heat that puppy till it smokes, then put some good oil on it.