THE SOLID TOOL POST MOUNT
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- Опубликовано: 15 окт 2024
- I discuss the merits of making a solid block to replace the compound slide of the lathe.
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I am "robinrenzetti" Instagram lots more content there!
Nice, thank you for going in detail on the replacement.
Thanks and thanks for your support and for stopping by Stefan.
ATB, Robin
@stefan are you going to build a taper attachment, or keep going back to the compound when that is needed?
Before I build a taper attachement, I hope that to get a cnc lathe, maybe a small, old Emcoturn 120... ;)
If I have to do tapers I can always drop the compound on the rear end of my crossslide.
As a student studying manufacturing engineering, I love seeing your solutions to improving efficiency and accuracy. I only hope that someday I can have half the skill and ingenuity you possess. Thanks for taking time out of your busy day to produce these videos. They are very much appreciated and sustain people like me who don't have their own shops.
Thanks MoD_Eagle and thanks for watching and commenting!
You are doing a great service to our nation in
Revitalizing machining and manufacturing
Hi Robin,
First of all, thanks for the shout... ;)
You deserve all the attention you get from all of us, I would gladly spend hours on your side learning all the small details that make greater parts....
This installation on your Hardinge lathe is a real improvement on an already excellent machine...
Thanks again and all the best,
Pierre
Thanks Pierre for the kind words and thanks for watching and commenting!
ATB, Robin
My jaw just hit the ground seeing all of those tool holders. Bravo sir!
Thanks Parker and thanks for watching and commenting!
Watching again, Dec 2023 2nd or 3rd time. It’s great to have master references to go back to. I’m working on a friends compound (Chinese lathe) and it’s so bad I’m having a hard time knowing where to start lol. Thanks, again, for taking the time for putting these fantastic videos together. Now if you can only convince Dan Gelbart to repost his “How to evaluate a lathe”, the stars will be aligned again.
Hi, Not commented before but really enjoy all of your videos. Excellent thought processes and attention to detail. I particularly like your grinding tips - I work in a Grinding Facility at Rolls Royce in England grinding Turbine Blades for Gas Turbine Engines.
Cheers
Crispin
you left out your train dont forget your train buddy i mean Rolls Royce Gas Turbine Enginesare very cool but, your train build ,epic! cant wait for you to get back settled and in your shop again ;)cheers .
Thanks Very Much, Yes will be great when the I get set up again and can continue with the Steam Loco.
Thanks Crispin, then you possibly have used diamond rotary dressers from my previous employer (Dunnington/Wendt/Winterthur/3M). I was on the ground floor in developing the processes for making their rotary dressers and spindles. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Hi. The Process we use is called 'Viper Grinding' which is a pattant shared by RR,Tyrolit, and Makino. Yes we get through hundreds of rotary dressers. Interesting to hear you worked on the development of them.
To be clear, I didn't help invent the reverse plated rotary dresser. I helped develop all OUR processes and equipment to ALSO make reverse plated rotary dressers.
Hey Robin,
Cast Iron for the tool post block, humm. Secret mechanical ninja tricks for extra low Q damping. Yes you get bonus points for the chip funnels. At first they looked like you took some material off the block to shrink its ominous presence. I didn't examine it that closely when I was visiting. I was too busy looking at all your other toys. It was nice that you took it off and showed the base details. How did you get it back into exact position for all your calibrated tools? Is it like the CNC lathe and once you set tool 1 all the rest follow it?
Thanks for the kind words but its really all you my friend. People can easily see you are the real deal.
All the best,
Tom
Hey Tom,
It repeats pretty well but yes the DRO has a global datum shift like G54 on a CNC.
You deserve them, but they still have to visit my channel to get a chance to decide if they agree!
Looking forward to your mini 1-2-3 blocks.
ATB, Robin
You have one of the most underrated machining channels on RUclips! Tom, Stefan and Pierre are right on directing people here. You do brilliant work and I hope you keep on producing videos. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks Pedro for the kind words and thanks for watching and commenting!
I amhappy that you published this as I have a cheap Chinese lathe, and have been fighting deflection for years and did exactly ( not to your design ) what you have done, by removing the compound and replacing it with
a 3" sq block bolted to the cross slide. I did not fix it solidly as you did, but none the less improved repeatably to a very high percentage. I will look at my set up and see if I can fix the rotational aspect. And of course as you pointed out the compound can still be replaced when ever screw cutting or taper operations need to be done. Well DONE and thanks
Thanks Eldon and thanks for watching and commenting!
Holy smokes !!! Not many people would think to scrape to correct that pre-loaded effect of the set screws to cancel that "Bow". AMAZING !
Man I love your vids! Scraped in tool post mount to correct deflection from torqued set screws..... Jeez, you tha man Robin. That parting op though! I feel fortunate to get to peak in your shop every time. Thanks for sharing, cant wait for the next one!
Thanks Steve and thanks for watching and commenting!
I'm one of the OXTools Gals. Love watching machinist and welders turn metal in to art and/or functioning items of use. Looking forward to many videos in the future. Creativity is always appreciated. - Annie
Thanks Annie and thanks for watching and commenting!
Followed your lead and made a solid tool post mount to replace the compound. Wow, what a difference! The solid post, coupled with a longer cross slide I made from an MLA Toolbox casting kit really improved my poor flimsy Craftsman 12x36 lathe. Now, I can actually use a parting tool, which is great. Much better surface finish on the lathe as well. Thanks for the idea Robin!
The only guy on youtube who deserves the title master. never seen anyone pay so much attention to all variables.
He's very good. Have you seen Clickspring? You'd appreciate him as well.
Thanks JohnHolemstheSecond, I am sure there are others. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I am totally doing this! I have been fighting my cross slide for months now....this convinced me! Keep up the great videos!
Thanks F1DesignUS and thanks for watching and commenting!
Rob, As an update I have one of the Sieg mini lathes . It is a lathe kit more than a tool but it fits my needs.
Anyway I ended up drawing up a tool post mount like yours in SolidWorks and 3D printed a prototype. I am amazed at how much better a PLASTIC solid mount is compared to the cast iron compound.
Once I get the details sorted on the model and print a final version I plan on building it out of steel or cast iron but I just wanted to say thanks again for pointing this modification out!!!
Cheers!
Steve
The best part about your videos Robin is the extra and extremely well thought out design that goes into any tooling you make. I'd never have considered the need to scrape that base after it's been preloaded so it again sits flat and doesn't pull the cross slide into a banana shape. And very impressive demonstration with that cut off tool showing just how rigid everything is. My pos lathe will never be a Hardinge, but this will still help a lot. From my perspective at least you get major style points on that base so it's not a chip and coolant shelf.
Thanks Turning Point and thanks for watching and commenting!
Very informative and timely given how I recently completed my compound replacement, of which I think you are aware. Design considerations on my machine were a little different than yours, I don't have a dro w/ or w/o tool offsets but was thinking about pinning the qctp to the riser in essentially the same way as you described. And one of the first things I tried was parting off with HSS and carbide and finally both are possible once again! Now I think the weak link has move down to the cylindrical dovetail boss that holds the riser to the cross slide, but nothing I can do about that until /if I ever make a t-slotted cross life replacement. Thanks for everything Robin, always exciting to see your content. 👌
Thanks Spencer and thanks for watching and commenting!
So, my Sherline not having a compound is a good thing... who'da thunk it? Glad I decided to design an adjustable tailstock for turning tapers, instead of going to a compound.
This also explains why the parting tool I just finished works so well on a lathe notorious for not parting worth beans. I put it on the back side, and started with a precision ground 2 x 2" angle block, (it IS a cute little thing), and went from there. It is height adjustable and uses the chuck edge, and rear edge of the cross slide at reference, with overlaps to rest against the edges for repeatability when installing.
The best thing, (IMO), is the source of the parting blades. After looking at a lot of them, it was a blade like yours which inspired me to cut slices from a worn out Skil saw blade, regrind the carbide, (square the end, remove the 'kerf' and set the rake), and go. One 7¼" blade nets 12 parting blades, and the price is right.
A 1/32" reinforced abrasive blade, (either Norton or MSC's house brand work great), makes cutting slices of blade quite easy. I then bring them to final dimension and parallel top and bottoms with a mill. It doesn't take much time, and a dozen blades last quite a while. One word of caution: do NOT use expensive thin saw blades, use the cheap think ones. Parting blades made from thin saw blades do not have the torsional strength needed, and twist when used.
Not quite to the level of making flat Slinkies from SS like you did, but no chatter parting is virtually unheard of on Sherlines. There's a few things I did when I mounted a motor and the lathe which help as well.
Yet, again, I have learned from a video of yours, Rob. This comes in very timely, as well. I'm about to raise the headstock on my lathe, so I will be making a block similar to this, but using for a spacer, instead of replacing the compound. Lots of good design ideas, especially since I just got an Aloris type tool post.
Thanks,
GeoD
Hey Rob, a diffuser for your lighting will go towards reducing that glare on the dome. Thanks for the great video.
This has been without a doubt the best upgrade I've ever done to my lathe.
Thank you for going into detail on cross slide rigidity issues. I learned a lot.
You are welcome Neil and thanks for watching and commenting!
Robin I have to tell you this was beyond just informative, you've given me insight to a problem that I wasn't even aware of. I liked this video a lot. Keep it up, much appreciation for the effort and time that goes into this kind of work. Cheers.
Thanks and thanks for watching and commenting!
Completely understand the twist imparted in the tool post mount from the set screws, but I doubt I would have thought of it. That's why I watch. Always learning.
Thanks !!
Brian
Thanks Brian and thanks for watching and commenting!
Really nice addition to the lathe, certainly keeps the parting off cut from chattering! Will be my next tooling project for sure, once I can find a suitable chunk of material, nice project for the metal shaper; a bit of oldschool chip making 😎
My lathe is a Weiler Ergodor, a late 80's German toolroom lathe, approx 12 x 19 capacity. Actually thinking of adding the little Hardinge to the shop also. I love the way you can reverse the leadscrew under power, that and other features make them a really efficient little machine for threading. They are wonderful quality lathes, you could say Rolls Royce, but I think some of the classic Dean-Smith & Grace lathes slightly pip them. Still exceptional quality like the Hardinge, but utterly, utterly beautiful machines also. The little Monarch 10ee would I guess be an American equivalent.
Thank you for all your fascinating and informative videos. I'm way over in Ireland here and really enjoy all the neat tooling ideas in your video content 😎 Rotary broaching toolholder is another one for the shortlist too 👌🤓🖒
Ger
Thanks Ger, the rotary broach is on the list. Thanks for watching and commenting!
What you said makes a lot of sense. I've often thought about removing the compound. Your solution is elegant and beautifully crafted. Nice job. Something for me to think about. Good video.
Thanks Jeff and thanks for watching and commenting!
Outstanding video Robin. I'd heard mention that you had a rigid non-compound configuration, and I'm glad to see it in action. I think Stefan also mentioned he had something similar in a podcast. I would loved to have seen you make that cast iron base. One disadvantage I see to this is that you loose the flexibility of rotating the tool post, which means you need a dedicated tool & holder for every type of operation - for instance a different tool for every chamfering angle - but maybe you overcome that with pivoting head tool (which also defeats the consistent tool offset advantage). I'd like to hear/see how you overcome the lack of tool post rotation flexibility in your individual tool collection. Again, thanks for another really illuminating video - much appreciated.
David Best
Thanks David, the time saving of having many standard tools ready to cut far outweighs the few times I need to put a tool in a holder at a specific angle. and thanks for watching and commenting!
This is an excellent start to the week! Thank you Robin keep the great content coming!
Amen!
Thanks Lewis and thanks for watching and commenting!
Thank you for making this video. I have a 8" SB1001 lathe with a compound that turns above a 40mm diameter ring. I swear I can see the compound flexing at times. Glad to see that it's reasonable to remove the compound from a manual lathe.
Thanks Kent and thanks for watching and commenting!
Robrenz - I can see the utility of the solid toolpost for production, but having used the Hardinge as well as the Feeler knock-off I never used one for production. Of course I never had my own shop and worked in tool rooms making jigs and fixtures or one off parts. I loved using the Hardinge, especially the threading mechanism. If I could ever afford one I wound definitely consider your style of toolpost for production work. Keep the video's coming.
Hi James, the solid tool post allows picking up any tool and knowing the diameter it is going to cut and its orientation. That is extremely time saving for one of and short run parts also. The drill chuck on the post allowing DRO control and feed is also a big help. Most of my work is one to three parts at a time. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Impressive amount of detail.. and as always a fountain of knowledge. Thank you so much!
Thanks Frank and thanks for watching and commenting!
I was literally having issues with a 60 degree compound cut in 304 the other night. I was sure it was because of my small 9" that I was seeing the deflection and issues, but it at least makes me feel a bit better that larger lathes have similar issues. That rotation back and forth gave me a *wonderful* wavy finish on the dovetail cutter I was making. I was coming up with a clamp or something to hold the entire compound down, but once I saw this I let out an audible "duh.". Love the thoughtfulness of the design - I know what im making tonight.
Also, i've enjoyed your videos - they all seem to be very relevant to what i've been tackling in the shop. Thanks for all the effort!!!
Awesome! Great idea - if I ever manage to aquire a lathe, I definitely going to copy this. Thanks a lot for sharing!
Thanks MadHatter123456 and thanks for watching and commenting!
This video is great. I have a Hardinge HLV-H and now know where some of my cutting problems may arise from. I now want to make a tool post holder like the one you did. Thanks for pointing out the flaws in the Hardinge design.
What a unique experience to watch your videos. Thank you for making videos and sharing your considerable skills. Your improvement of the Hardinge is especially interesting to me. I worked on an HLV-H for several years and thought it the best lathe I had ever used, but there is always room for improvement! Best wishes!
Thanks William and thanks for watching and commenting!
As in previous years Robin, your workshop is still on my xmas list. Great to see all the new content that you are listing. We never stop learning and thank you for your knowledge, experience and sharing it with the community.
Thanks Rodger and thanks for watching and commenting!
Definitely some style points on those edges!! Always a pleasure watching! Thank you! 👍🏻
Thanks Todd and thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks for sharing, as a hobby woodworker I never understood the tolerances you machinist are working with before I started to watch you, Tom (both of them) Steffan, Adam an the others.
Thanks ToRe and thanks for watching and commenting!
That's nice, I was going to build a better block for my Haas tl2 lathe to get rid of the tee nut and I really appreciate the info! I never though about the torque from the tool post mounting distorting the base but of course it would! I was just going to use 2 dowels that are already in the tool post but now I think I'm going 'borrow' your mounting system. In my opinion the only compounds that can turn a nice smooth taper without hassle are on large lathes and have power feed. I use to run a huge lathe with huge compound (I think it had around 18 to 24" of travel as it was about 3' long) and it had both power feed and its own half nut for tapered threads. It work well but was literally like having another lathe bolted to the cross slide! Thanks again.
Thanks Widget, very interesting about the mega compound. Thanks for watching and commenting!
i make foundry patterns and was thinking people might be interested in having cast iron blakes made that they can finish out on there own to suit there particular lathes. i'm not sure how but to make them for all the different sizes and how it might be the most universal think posabble . seems lots of people are wasting away quite a large hunk of iron .
Hi Rob, thanks so much for taking the time and effort to produce & upload these videos - pure gold.
Finally someone Who takes care of his machines PROTECTING THEIR WAYS with rubber covers!
Incredible. I think we'll all want some plans for that one Rob. Especially us Hardinge guys :)
Thanks Brad, my HLVH block would not work on your second opp anyway.Thanks for watching and commenting!
ATB, Robin
Can't get enough of these vids Robin. Thanks for sharing
You are welcome
I think this is the best thing I've seen in 20 years. I've never seen this in all the shops I've been in and I've been in hundreds.
Thanks Douglas and thanks for watching and commenting!
Amazing. Never thought of my compound as a weak link but it is obvious now. Thanks for posting.
Thanks scott and thanks for watching and commenting!
Re watching this. You know you like the content when you happily do repeats!
Glad to hear that Reuben!
Lol, ive seen alot of his videos two or 4 times. I watch surface plate lapping videos almost nightly when im getting ready to sleep. Its better than tv shows and i can learn as i start to snooze, win win.
The amount of information in your videos is amazing. Thanks for sharing with everyone. Priceless information!
Thanks and thanks for watching and commenting!
bows down to the machining god. loved the parting tool demo, very impressive.
Thanks Matthew and thanks for watching and commenting!
I watched this probably on release, out of curiosity. Now that I have a Manila The in the basement to improve this takes on a whole new relevance; thank you for the wisdom.
Glad I could help!
Very nice mod. You are so right about the compound being the weak link. Now I have to find a Hardinge.
Thanks Randy and thanks for watching and commenting!
ATB, Robin
With each new video you post it becomes clear that you're one hell of a smart man Robin. I am a big fan of Tom for the same reasons. The "no compromise" outlook you all have toward your work is refreshing. Thanks for another great video.
Thanks Moe for the kind words and thanks for watching and commenting!
Robin, Thank you for posting these videos. You definitely are the real deal. I look forward to each of your videos.
Thanks Q Absoloff and thanks for watching and commenting!
very insightful on all the problems that the compound can cause . im certain there are many oxen among us here . i also like that rotary broach love to see how you made it .
I am not machinist but your work is exceptional ,thanks for the video
Magnificent video, particularly the compound crank and the little details like no horizontal surfaces on the riser.
Also I'm glad I'm not alone in battling compounds. I had the very problem you described when indicating a sine bar before cutting a very precise taper on a Rivett 1020. Ended up using the TA to get around it.
So when you cut tapers, do you usually default to using the taper attachment and/or form tools?
Thanks onewheeler, I use a lapped form tool but I don't do a lot of long tapers in my general work. Thanks for watching and commenting!
wow. I've recognized the weak point but never would have thought of that on my own. great, informative video. thanks loads as always for your efforts and sharing.
Thanks LEAF and thanks for watching and commenting!
Thank you Robin for sharing your time and knowledge with us. I always learn something new here :)
Thanks Isidoro and thanks for watching and commenting!
Great idea! I have been working on a design to build new slides for my Atlas lathe. This gives me another design idea. Thank you.
Thanks Steven and thanks for watching and commenting!
One of the few channels that I watch everything that you do. And save most of them. Thanks for showing the details that make for better quality work Robin. As a fellow chrome dome You wear it with dignity. The glare is part of the way it iz. Just think of all the money we save on shampoo!
Thanks Kravchenko, glad to know I am not alone and thanks for watching and commenting!
It's Mark. Last name is Kravchenko. Looking forward to your next video.
I see where you said that you save most of these videos. How do you do this? I am still learning this wonderful youtube resource.
Thank you for the link. Understand the many interests you have. It sure is nice to have day work that is just like what we do for fun in my home shop.
Robin. I have been watching all your videos and have learned a huge amount. You inhabit a whole new world of precision and meticulousness compared to mine(!) - thanks for enlightening me to what is possible and inspiring me to try to do better. Keep 'em coming.
Ian.
Thanks Ian and thanks for watching and commenting!
Hey RobRenz! this is the first of your video's I've seen btw. Great idea! I am a new hobby machinist with a floppy mini lathe, and have been trying to find a video for curing the slop in the compound.. this is the cure for me! I really have searched too, so I'm thankful you posted this. (yes I subscribed as well) Thanx
Glad you found it useful and thanks for subscribing!
Excellent! My compound has been driving me crazy, and now it's going.
Thanks George and thanks for watching and commenting!
IM looking at doing this to my lathe. Thanks for the information . the bottom of the solid tool post is something I didn't think about doing. But will use the idea .
Very interesting video. In fact I have been researching this recently. I have a couple of good old German GEMA lathes, one of them came with a quick change tool holder system (the brand does not really matter). But, what occured to me is that the quick change system introduces a weak link in itself. The inherent 'U' shape produces bending forces, etc. Parting off with this setup is out of the question. Before tossing the compound slide and its angle adjustment, I am inclined to revert to the solid block tool holder solidly mounted and center height adjusted with shim plates. The goal is to have the forces move through steel-to-steel interfaces without any additional bending or twisting forces. It used to work great on an old VDF I used to own an I never gave it any thought back then... just used the setup the German engineers back in the fifties decided as optimal, which was a solid block holding up to 4 tools and indexing every 90 degrees. Original equipment, perfect fit for the machine.
Would love to hear your thoughts!
Another great video. Love the way you think and explain things.
Thanks Robert and thanks for watching and commenting!
Great video and good way to keep all of your tooling memory in your DRO.
Thanks Loren and thanks for watching and commenting!
While I dont think I will be scrapping my compound any time soon... it is just too useful for many of the jobs I do. I do think I will add building a solid tool post to swap on when doing higher precision work. Awesome work as always Robin!
Robin, you deserve any and all praise and comments! Your content is the best, bar none, it’s insightful, professional and of the utmost quality. We should all be so lucky as to have such a wonderful teacher, if they were all of your caliber we might be able to lead as we used to back in the days when the US had some of the best engineers in the world!
Edit: That is a lot of tools, you need some place to organize all your goodies!😂😂
Wow, thank you!
I REALLY look forward to you posting new videos - I've watched many of them more than a few times - I think it was Tom Lipton who mentioned that you PACK these with high-value content and he's bang on. I think I learn 2-3 things a minute watching; and I'm very grateful you take the time to make these videos. Thanks. Now back to watching - nice to round out a week with a new video from you.
BTW, you guys (Tom, Adam, Kieth's R & F, Tony, Stefan, the lot of yah) are gonna be the death of my wallet...I spent 2 hours today in a nearby town buying a Bridgeport and am actively looking for a lathe...so while my finances hate it, I'm grateful for the inspiration. I haven't made anything with my hands in years, but will be very soon. I appreciate these videos motivating me to get off my arse and get after it.
oh, and I found you BEFORE Tom's referral - hope that drives some new visitors to your site but I was digging for Hardinge content and you came up a couple of months ago...just sayin'.
Thanks bo for the kind words now go make something! Thanks for watching and commenting!
That's a great setup for rigidity alone. Reliable Repeatability of the tool locations is a major time saver when doing production work. If the parts are not ending up at the correct diameter, you can almost guarantee that it's because of a worn insert. I would imagine that every tool has to have a very specific insert assigned to it, or the presets will be of no use. I love the idea, but man, I'm not that organized and I would need to invest at least another $1000 in QC tool holders. I'm not even sure if my DRO has memory for tool positions...I'll have to investigate that, I've never used that function if it does. I should at least look into it for my most commonly used tools. You gave me a lot to think about. Rigidity hasn't been a major problem on my Ikegai A20, but it's a large 20" swing lathe built like a tank, I always keep the compound locked down. I have had the tool post swing loose on occasion during heavy material removal though.... now I use a pipe on a wrench to tighten that sucker down. Your attention to detail and organization blows my mind...my OCD has got nothing on yours. ;)
Thanks Marcel, good points and thanks for watching and commenting!
I'm a big fan of Tom's contributions to the community knowledge as well.
Great Idea! Thanks for the illustration and background thinking. I guess you have to re-zero your x axis once you reinstall, so all your tool holder offsets remain good.
Love your channel, granted I never really touch a machine tool these days but I love the dedication to the art you have.
How did you handle single point threading on the Hardinge without the compound? (Before you got the Tormach) No infeed at 29 degrees? Great videos! I always wait for new ones with much anticipation!
Straight infeed on fine pitch threads would be fine.
Straight infeed for most, if not all, threads is fine. The better machinists have come to acknowledge that it is unnecessary to feed at 29 degrees, especially if full form inserts are being used.
I really like that set up , seems to make alot of sense ! Thanks for showing. I cant wait to get a lathe.
Thanks nathanael and thanks for watching and commenting!
Robin, I am going to make a hand crank drive extension for my lathes. A constant battle with my watchmakers' lathes is the lateral forces exerted onto the workpiece, compromising the surface finish. This can be mostly overcome with very careful feed by hand, however, compromises feed rates etc.
The dowel pins with set screws to keep the toolpost from rotating is also great.
Very informative video.
Thanks for the ideas.
Glad you are finding the content useful.
You just revealed the biggest issue I have with my mini lathe! I'm an amateur at best having learned how to use a lathe from my dad. I just can't part soft metals like silver and aluminum with parting tools without screeching and hellish sounds coming from the part, not to mention the tool biting into the piece and pulling the whole tool post down. Granted I need to readjust a lot, but the damn compound slide is a wasted and relatively useless component for daily functions. Thank you so much for shedding light on an issue I was struggling with.
Thanks and thanks for watching and commenting.
Thank you, sure did appreciate the graphic of the tool post model as I could not quite understand the explanation without it. Great idea and excellent content.
Thanks Glenn and thanks for watching and commenting!
Great project & workmanship! Just a thought on the toolpost not staying straight on the topslide despite using Abom torque on the hold-down: perhaps the top of the t-nut needs to be ground down a bit. It could be a bit proud of the toolpost top surface once pulled up by the bolt, which means the toolpost is only clamped to the nut and not so much to the toolpost.
Even when the problem you describe is not occurring, the tool post can be moved no matter how tight the bolt.
Wow! I thought I was fussy, you reground the toolholders! I always took out the stud and cleaned/loctite and set for center each individual tool.
There is even more to it than that. I will show in another video
Can't wait!!!
My smallest lathe is a C1 mini lathe, which I consider a sort of watchmakers lathe for small bits and pieces. I bought the compound,(which is an option in these small machines) and though well made, it suffers from the ailments you have described. I shall make one of these toolpost-blocks! And only mount the cross slide when I really need it !
What do you do when you have to single point thread ? Just forget about the 29 degree thing and plunge in at 90 ?
Paddy
Thanks Paddy small threads with straight infeed are not a problem and thanks for watching and commenting!
Excellent, thanks very much for that. It's something I really should do on my noodle, but was surprised would make much difference on such a nice lathe like you have. Some other good tips, so keep up the excellent work. It's always a good day when I see one of your videos have been published.
Thanks Pete F and thanks for watching and commenting!
You and Toms bromance is awesome! I love the RUclips metalworking community
a collaborative project would be delightful
Great video/build/discussion
Thanks Chuck and thanks for watching and commenting!Still praying for Tim's total recovery!
ATB, Robin
Robin, what an excellent solution for maximizing the rigidity of your lathe. Would you maybe do a video explaining how you use the larger sized tool shanks with an axa sized tool block?
Thanks Joseph I just grind the slot in the tool holder larger to accept larger tools. Thanks for watching and commenting!
There's just no arguing with the logic, execution, or results. Is there any reason beyond habit/custom for keeping the compound on, when not needed?
For single point threading: Does the gain in rigidity suppress chatter, better than being able to cut with (mostly) just the leading edge by feeding with the compound?
Since you mentioned only using the compound 4 times, I presume that means you do single point threading by feeding straight in?
I hope he replies to this very good question.
Thanks somebody else, straight in threading works fine with a rigid setup. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Cool, good to know.
And there was I, happy not to have snapped my parting blade! Nice work. Thank you for sharing
Thanks Robert and thanks for watching and commenting!
Robin, you nailed it from the get-go, you can't fight physics, you need to fool it into thinking it's won then throw in a curved ball to re-establish the equilibrium. Sir, you are at the omega end of the skills spectrum and I am trying to achieve letter alpha. I know when you post I need to try to clear my brain (not too difficult with that task) so I can absorb what is about to come. Many thanks for sharing and giving a shout-out to the other guys. Kindest regard. Joe.
Thanks Joe for the kind words and thanks for watching and commenting!
why dident you build a whole tool holder and eliminate the height block ? great vid and very smooth finishing .as for the glare how bout a Barret, dew rag or a panama hat ?thanks
Beautiful solution to a widespread design issue. That parting cut says it all with cool silence. Your precision begets precision. I learn something useful in each of your vids. Not sure I understand the V block forces mentioned in the dowel hole though. Could you elaborate? Thanks for sharing your knowledge and skills!
Thanks braxtonec and thanks for watching and commenting!
Great video. Can you show the construction and use of the tall post through the center of the tool post? How did you go about bluing and scraping the mounting points?
Thanks Aaron, tha is just a grade 8 hex bolt with a small tapped hole in the top to hold the rod for the indicator mount. You will have to wait for me to do a scraping video for those details. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks Robin, the Graziano is pretty good but i think it would require a little more TLC before the benefits of that rigid setup .
( ok we will leave the operator out of the equation)
I have had the tool post spin on me during some fairly aggressive tuning despite it being tight. I was thinking of lightly grinding the area of the compound where it sits. would the Aloris also have to be reground?
I'm always learning something.. thanks for sharing
Thanks for stopping by Phil. Having flat surfaces will help but it wont completely cure the problem.
ATB, Robin
Amazing videos A very smart individual. Really enjoyable to watch. Keep up the good work. Kevin.
Thanks Kevin and thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks again for sharing. I like the idea especially the post for an indicator on top. Now to roll retrofit my home lathe. is it possible to ask how you went about scraping and measuring please 😊.
Rob has mentioned Foundations of Mechanical Accuracy before mooretool.com/publications.html
No need to measure, I just blued the cross slide and used it as a master to check and scrape the underside of the riser block. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I wouldn't be surprised the hear that you've never had to advertise your services! You're that good!
I am very blessed that I have never had to advertise.
Great idea for smaller hobby lathes like i have.
But i am a little confused. You are preloading the toolpost with screws from behind, but is not the wrong way? Because that will be the same way as the tool pressure forces work?
But i guess it is weary difficult or impossible to preload it from the other direction against the cutting forces because that will get in the way of the dovetails.
The way preload works is that unless it is completely relieved (i.e. either the set screws or the dowel pin are on the verge of coming unseated) the overall assembly stiffness is symmetrical.
Wow! Nice work! You actually made a Battleship of a lathe (aka Hardinge) more rigid and functional. Love your attention to detail in all aspects of design and machining. Thanks again for sharing.
Nice video, thanks. I recently got my own Lathe DRO, and I must admit that I'm constantly peeved by the moving compound. Somehow I just can't see myself taking it off though... How do you thread with this setup?
I'd also like to know what you used for the flexible way covers. I tried using a thin rubber mat, but that was a nightmare. Chips stick to it and the oils warp/soften it....
Thanks Kobus, I have a video on the covers coming and thanks for watching and commenting!
9:49 what is the high speed clicking like sound? It is still making the noise after you complete the parting off. I certainly see the multiple advantages of this setup but don't think I am ready to give up the handyness of doing angles with my compound just yet. :-)
Good question Bryan, you can hear it before the tool even engages the work
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Yeah I hear it pretty clear at 9:49 and that appears to be before tool contact.
Hi Brian, that is the 6 jaws tapping the neoprene way cover sheet below the chuck. When the chuck is close to the headstock the cover piles up and can rub the chuck. Thanks for watching and commenting.
ATB, Robin