*After years of hauling around a large,💫 **allabout.wiki/PORTER** heavy, loud dewalt air compressor (that ironically was advertised as quiet, supposedly 78dB), I bought this. Facepalm. While it is not ‘silent’, I find myself chuckling every time I use it, sparing all my neighbors the terror of my former compressor. I use for inflating tires, impact wrench, finish nailers. Absolutely love it. And I store it under the garage sink in a 24” cabinet. I paired with a coil 1/2”, instead of a my former 50’ 5/8” hose that I had to lug across the yard from the shed, unpleasantly uncoil.... this little guy is light and portable; just a joy. Impact wrench is still capable of easing lug bolts, flywheel bolts, crank pulleys... just allow for a tiny bit of recovery now and then.*
Wow! That thing is *far* quieter than your old compressor. Used to be, when that old one kicked on, your voice was drowned out -- and that was with the compressor all the way across the shop. This one, you're standing right next to it, and you're still audible and understandable. Sweet!
wrong oil, you need at the very least a non-detergent oil. The reason being is that modern engine oils are designed to keep shavings in suspension so they can be removed by the filter, a non-detergent oil allows crap to settle to the bottom of the crankcase where it wont do any damage
I love how incredibly far you've come and how much you've grown, Eric, since we all came to know you in that first little shop you started ETCG in. Really proud of you! Stay dirty.
Nice compressor. BUT you need to move it away from the wall. The cooling fan on the compressor head needs better air flow. Run a flex line from the tank to the wall, solid pipe will tear the fitting loose from the tank (Easy place to get the line is a farm supply place. Just get a short hydraulic line in the correct size) CHANGE THE OIL OUT ASAP Compressors use a specific NON detergent oil in a straight weight. (20 or 30 weight) Regular auto oil will damage the compressor due to the additives that will cause carbon build up on the valves and foaming in the bottom of the compressor head. Add an auto drain to the tank OR go get a "wet" tank drain, those have a lanyard that you can extend up to the switch area to pull and open the drain. Less likely to forget that way. As for a drier, It depends on just how much air you will use at one time. IF you plan on becoming a full on body shop doing that work then get one of the big powered units. If you plan on doing what you have been doing then just buy one or two of the large desiccant style units and a second charge of the desiccant beads. Then when the beads soak up the water you change them out and simply bake the old ones to reactivate them. Of course, since this video was shot a while back you may have done all this already...........
Eric it's so nice to see that your equipments are getting an upgrade! You deserve it! Thanks so much for all the repair tips. I'm a diy-er and you have been a great help!
Eric, you're way too close too the wall. You need to find the specs on the cooling (or call the guys) distance for that machine. Turbulence produced by the built in fan and the wall don't mix in well.
Congrats Eric...I have been subscribed to your channel since the beginning when you had less then 100 subscribers, and I'm happy for you and where your at right now...good for you bro!
My dad recently was given a spare A/C machine from where he works, they give surplus equipment to the employees rather than selling it off or junking it, another guy got a tire machine and balancer already, so when this A/C machine came up he made sure and grabbed it first. He's had a spar tank of refrigerant for years, and now finally has a machine to go with. He thought about getting a set of gauges and a vacuum pump, but he really wanted the ability to recover the system rather than let it escape if there is any in there.
+EricTheCarGuy Proud of you Eric, have been watching since forever ago and remembered the first drum brake video. You were so happy about 100 subscribers, you said you won't gonna give up and out there for us (100 people, lol). Look how far you've come. I mean look at your shop! A lift, air, maybe employees in the future. Aren't you glad you got out of that little shop years ago, even if that was a terrible experience. Keep on keepin on Eric, your honesty, values and content will keep us comin back for sure!
This had to be the high point and most hopeful for a long future in this shop;./ The fact that it ended so soon after is a real punch in the gut and shows just how much dedication you gave to the infrastructure of it all. If someone had told you then that you would get booted 5 years later what would you have done differently? For one a ten year lease with another ten year option if not ownership equity in the property./ It still hurts me to this day. I hope you come south to the West Coast of Florida. Maybe join up with Rainman Ray's or just open your own new shop with interns that want to learn the trade. You are a great teacher.
Now you need a sandblast cabinet. Very handy for suspension and brake parts cleanup.And they can usually be found at reasonable prices. I'm digging all the new tools, congratulations.
A large factory I worked on a few years ago, estimated that all their lines/compressors/fittings leaking - Which they do after a while - Costed a bit over a $100k each year - So they added this to their budget. Got every single leak fixed, and they have a person assigned to fix it when something starts to leak - And they save a huge ammount every year just by fixing this. But thats a factory with thousands of workers - I guess you wont save much by fixing the leaks, but at least you get rid of the constant hissing noise though. Great vid as always!
That compressor looks way too close to the wall. The large pulley on the pump is also a cooling fan for the pump. Being that close to the wall may restricts airflow that is needed to cool the pump. I don't know what the manual for your compressor says on distance from wall, but most give say to keep it a foot or two from the wall.
+shadowdog500 The Bendpak manual for their compressors says: "Install and operate unit at least 24” from any obstructions in a clean, well ventilated area. The surrounding air temperature should not exceed 100* F. This will ensure an unobstructed flow of air to cool compressor and allow adequate space for maintenance."
+shadowdog500 another problem ...Eric needs to move the thermostat for his HVAC ..now heat will come off the compressor and make the thermostat give a false reading ..= his heat in the winter will not be accurate ..
Turn it down to 150psi to save the start capacitor & all those ball valves. This is the best shop set up i've seen so far. Those t's with couplers is a great idea. Problem we're having with the 2 compressors at work is that braided steel line between the pump & the tank burns up then blows apart. I had some spare 3500psi hydraulic hoses made up. The set up at work is 2 - 120 gallon compressors piped together to maintain 150psi 24/7 to run a double 16 milking parlor. They each have 60 amp breakers that sometimes trip. Wait till you see the power you have now in your impact wrench!
Great air system Eric! I worked for a few years installing such systems and there should not be a single leak anywhere. Wish I was there to help you. I used to thread black pipe with a pipe threader. You really need to put a mesh flex hose between the compressor and the wall for vibration. I love your shop!! Jealous, LOL!
Tim the Tool Man would be proud! Awesome shop.Can I suggest adding a automatic blow down valve for the tank drain at the bottom at the tank and vented to the outside with copper tube. You can set the duration and how often it opens. I think they are around $60. Great video!
forget vibration pads hockey pucks work 10x better trust me and are 5 bucks for plenty. Also want a flexpipe somewhere at the steel pipe to help with vibration and service
ohhh nice tip on the pucks. and I was thinking the same about vibration on the line right after the compressor. even a little vibration could make it crack.
You may want to consider drains on your horizontal runs. Black pipe will cool the hot air from the compressor creating water in the pipe. You can build a after cooler for less than $100 bucks, significantly reducing water in your tank. (it will rust from the inside out) The elbow at the tank drain will block with a ice plug when you drain it, something to keep in mind. What do you think about getting a auto drain? The auto drain with the after cooler will significantly extent the life of your tank. Lastly, a short brass extension pipe at your oil drain will save you from a mess. All lessons I learned the hard way.
first of all very very happy to see you progressing step by step. but on the other hand what I see in future is eric the car guy with a modernised fully equipped workshop where everything is being done on machines and everything and people would miss the old eric the car guy with nothing but just hand tools and swapping engines over a period of not hours but days. but over all its always nice to see someone making progress who has struggled but keep going no matter what. keep it up we will still be watching you
Eric, you should never use oil with detergents in a compressor. It will destroy the pump over time. You should use synthetic compressor oil only. Amsoil makes good compressor oils.
I don't want to punch you in your face. I want to be happy for you. You give back and help others out. So, you are well deserving of your new equipment. Bless you Eric and stay dirty!
I ran about 30 feet of copper pipe between the compressor and the tank. I purchased 10 foot lengths of copper pipe and cut them in half. I then had them run up-down-up-down in a "S" pattern. I sandwiched the pipes between two sheets of aluminum. The air is hottest when in comes right out of the compressor head. So hot that it will melt ordinary soldered copper joints and blow apart. So I used compression fittings for the first 2 feet. You could probably "braze" the connections and not have any problems, since braze doesn't lose its strength until a much higher temperature. So the air temp is hottest coming out of the compressor. That is where you will have the greatest opportunity to extract the heat. After the air runs through the "radiator" it cools down to the ambient air temp and goes into the tank. So you get MORE air in the tank (because it is cool air: PV=nRT). You get about 1.5 to 2 times as much air crammed into the tank! It made a tremendous difference (and did not cost $1000). More air that is cool and ALMOST ALL of the moisture condensates in the tank. I installed a air/water/moisture separator at the out put of the tank. It caught the last remnants of moisture. Impact tools hit harder on denser air. After I did that modification, didn't ever have a moisture problem.
Excellent setup! The only thing that could possibly be better is if you owned the property. By the way, the piping does not add very much volume. I took part in an all day seminar about compressed air systems that was a complimentary benefit from NIPSCO, our local utilities company. Every audible air leak on a system that runs 365 days a year will waste approximately $1,000.00 per year.
+EricTheCarGuy He'd know that already if he was a proper fan, because you've stated on numerous occasions how much they want to charge you just to have the gas connection before any usage charges ;)
I don't wanna punch you. I feel that your hard work has paid off. It just means we will be getting better how to's and more in depth of other processes that the DIY doesn't necessarily have the equipment to do, but will be shown how it's done.
Hello Eric great videos. I am an older hobby mechanic. But your videos have gave me lots of knowledgeable information. Years ago a person would have to just jump in and do it. End result was breaking it,stripping it, etc.. Great videos keep up the good work. But I have a suggestion for you. Rotate or move your compressor from the wall. Let it breath,let the pulley circulate better. Also I would suggest putting a rubber flexible line between the compressor and the wall. Vibrations from he pump could cause leaks in piping. Piping looks excellent great job . Wish I had a shop as nice as that. You deserve it.
Eric - a suggestion for your air hoses at the bendpak station - get a few retractable reels - it will clean up the area and you won't have hose hanging all over the walls.
Like your compressor setup. I also have a 5HP compressor with a smaller tank and I used an automobile AC condenser between the compressor and tank for a dryer. No fan required and it works great. Causes the blow down to be longer.
On two stage air compressors majority of the noise it makes when it runs is from the valves in the head of the compressor. To reduce some of the noise try look into a intake muffler that mounts between the intake filter and the first stage intake of the compressor. There is an noticeable reduction of noise when your compressor runs. Also look into installing a electric "Auto Condensate Valve" on your tank condensate drain. Install it per the piping directions, plug it into a 110v wall outlet adjust the frequency and duration of time between each purge and you wont ever worry about condensate build-up in your tank.
WOOOOW you've come a long way!!! Nice job with the pipe hook ups!! It's great that you were able to locate and repair the leaks, and even do minor repairs, etc. Very happy for you that you're pretty much prepared to do just about anything! Thanks for sharing. Take care.
this reminded me of when I was a kid and kids would invite you to their house to show you their new toys, I always liked that was fun to see how excited they got :-)
Very nice. I'm jealous, and happy for you. The compressors inn the shop I work at have an adjustment in the pressure switch, so pressure can basically be regulated right at the compressor. It seems like 170 psi would burn up air tools pretty quickly, but maybe not. Ours is kept at 120 for the shop and there is a regulator on the line into the paint booth to cut it back to 90 psi for the painter to spray with. We have lots of water drains like yours and I empty the compressor tanks and all the water traps three times a week and always get water from all of them.
Get most of the water out of the compressed air before it goes into the tank: Place a large cross flow / high flow condenser unit after the pump, before the tank with a check check valve just before it enters the tank. Tee at the bottom with an automatic water separator (spring loaded plate in the bowl, when under pressure it is closed. When pressure is released by the unloader, it automatically drains) at the lowest point before it goes into the tank. There are universal condensers that you can use or you can reclaim one from a pickup truck. If you are worried about air flow, then use two of them. By drastically lowering the temperature of the air as it comes out of the compressor head you are pushing the moist air through its dew point where the water will condense on all that lovely surface area inside the condenser and fall out of the air. Put dry air into your tank and you won't get water in the bottom of it. Put dry air in your tank and you won't get wet air in your lines. You can see examples of people who have done this very thing on RUclips if you search for Air Compressor Aftercooler Condenser.
I know this is an old video, and I don’t know if anyone has said anything about this but a helpful tip from a Union Pipefitter.... Tape the thread then put dope on it and screw ot together. Also put a smear of dope on your faces of the Union and never sneeze on the thread and back side. Almost never will leak at the threads and it makes tightening your Union easier. Not a bad piping job tho. Only thing I would change is having it come out of the compressor, 90 down with a chunk of pipe to a tee, take your supply off the Bullhead and run a chunk off the other side with a valve. That will catch most moister and help with water in your system.
I know it's from 2015 but, I thought we had you when I didn't notice a regulator on the far side. Then you pulled out the regulator/filter and I was sitting here thinking to myself, "Tire machine", "Balancer", "4-way couplers", "Freaking regulator/filter"....YEP, punch this lucky SOB right in the kisser....Dam good job getting that all squared away......Pipe fitting is a *B*.
Great addition for the shop, you can never have too much air available. I have to add after working in shops for 40yrs+(ouch) heat and lack of simple maintenance is what kills air compressors. Periodic oil changes and intake filter cleaning go a long way. One important point I want to make is the flywheel/pulley on the compressor is also a fan, the belt guard should be 5-6 inches from the wall to allow enough airflow around the compressor to cool it. It may only be a problem when it runs often but why lose money by shortening the lifespan? I'm not being critical I'm just offering what I know from my experience.
thats real cool man, congrats you keep on movin up. The more the merrier, been watchin since you started, so cool to see you grow and get more/better tools and equipment.
I gotta say. I really enjoy your show. Do not change or sell out. Ps I think it's funny when you talk about "Eric The Car Guy" in third person. Best wishes
+EricTheCarGuy Great setup, and good job on the pipe fitting! I did notice a few things that concern me a bit. The compressor seems to be very close to the wall, not leaving any room for the compressor pulley to move air over the compressor. I also noticed that you have your tire filler connected after the oiler, I can't imagine oil being very good for tires. Last thing I saw was that there was no flexible link between the compressor tank and the piping.
Yep, noticed that too. Then Bendpak manual says minimum of 2 ft clearance all around. I also notice it's going straight to solid piping. I hope it doesn't shake the pipes loose.
Nice job Eric! You might want to think about installing a SS flex hose between the compressor and fixed black pipe to avoid any vibrations issues. Also, the black metal pipe is definitely better than PEX, because it acts like it's own built in condenser, as it cools the hot air the farther you get away from the compressor, condensing the water out.
Now you just need an automatic purge for the drain valve. You can set it to open for a few seconds every few hours. Since you are probably like the rest of us and will forget to drain the tank on occasion, it will save your tank a lot of rust. There was a lot of moisture in there after filling it up.
Hey man it's really fun to see the shop evolve. First the lift now the air system and OMG tire machine and balancer. Really cool! Now we expect many more how to videos! Lets get that Fairmont running 10's!
If you find you have a lot of water build-up in your tank, you might want to look into an automated purge system for the tank drain, can usually get good ones that you can program to purge after X-amount of hours of the compressor running.
I know its far to late, but in the future when you have air flow problems you'll find that steel piping you used to save some $$ has corroded inside decreasing the diameter and making it extremely bumpy inside. Copper, aluminum, and stainless steel are the only options when hard piping in an air line. The moisture in the air is whag will cause your steel line to corrode.
I agree! It looks like there's a cooling fan built into the right side of the system, and the entire thing is mounted too close to the wall. Was it the rule-of-thumb being half the diameter...full diameter?...of the fan blades clearance behind and in front of the cooling fan itself for adequate clearance? We don't want to see your set-up prematurely!
+Oh Kay I think the rule was full diameter. I remember because my old air cooled compressor came with a cardboard cutout that would fit around the housing and you weren't supposed to touch anything within that area.
+anti0918 You seem damn obsessed with the manual for this. If we all did things by the book, we'd have a lot less fun, and if this thing fails due to lack of airflow despite the dedicated cooling fan on the engine, the meshed cover, the space between it and the wall, then the company still has a fair bit of work and improvement to do.
Just to note there is a pretty large pressure drop(10 psi or so) across the quick connects when using high consumption tools and it only compounds as you couple more together. I found this out after adding a 3 ft flexzilla whip to my impact. Noticeable performance difference. You have higher psi but still a potential issue. Also you should have a flex joint (rubber hose) between compressor and piping to reduce vibration. Buy a hose reel. well worth the money.
My compressor, not as big as yours but big enough for me, had a sound level of 98 decibel when running, so it was loud (deafening). Then i made an intake system that draws air from outside and muffels the sound. I borowed a decibel instrument, a real one that proos use, and got the decibel level down to 76. Its still loud, but you can stand next to it while running with out losing your hearing. And also, get some wall mounted hose reels and cabelreels, keeps the shop cleaner and tangel free.
I was glad to hear your union comment. That was going to be my first suggestion. But easy to add after the fact (like you did). BTW, your landlord is awesome!
Had headphones on wasn't expecting that bomb of a line purge ha great stuff. Love the set up hopefully you have worked out the leaks. I have been watching your videos for years Im glad everything is coming together for you.
What I did with mine was to put a regulator and filter trap near the compressor as a master pressure control for the highest pressure required in the shop. Then I fit the lower pressure regulator at the workbench and other stations. The best other idea I found was to fit an oiler adapter that does not allow tools that require lubrication will not fit directly on to air only fittings.
Nice video as usual. Eric I have learned lot's from you, I am just a shady tree mechanic as I think it is called in the States. Having worked in construction most I my life I can give something back, I agree totally that the bolt holes on the feet of the compressor could be a bit further out but we have what we have. If it was me, I would position the unit, mark the concrete, move the unit out of the way, drill the holes and then reposition the unit. (Yes I do know it's heavy!) Harvey, UK
I agree with everyone else about the compressor being too close to the wall. The "fan" in the flywheel won't move any air for cooling, it will just cavitate, just like putting a box fan against a wall. Also, get an automatic water drain for the tank, it will save you time and you won't have to remember to drain it.
Use a flexible hose to connect the compressor to your output piping. The vibration from the compressor may break the solid pipe connection and by using a flexible hose, it will be a little quieter.
What a great setup you have now! It truely has been a thrill watching you build the shop in to what you want. It hasn't come over night but boy you've earned it. Thanks for taking us along for the ride.
Eric, you now have enough air power to justify a sandblast cabinet or even a plasma cutter! That's the main reason I went with a huge compressor similar to yours... As far as the condensate drain, I've contemplated running a pipe/hose right through the wall to the outside. Not sure if you have that option though.
bad ass system seeing u grow is inspiring ...one thing I would of done differently is put a T where u got the 90° reducer after the union coming right off the tank put a small peace of pipe on bottom on the t to a ball valve so all condensation from the lines would run to that ball valve and small piece of pipe and not back into your tank that's just personal preference badass system
Looks good! Plenty of versatility and can't beat nearly free supplies! I guess if you ever end up with some vibrration in the piping you could always install a flexible line in that little 6" run right out of the compressor. Also, I wonder if you could route the tank drain through the wall to the yard outside via a small hole in the wall? Would be one less mess to clean up.
that pipe if left with the oiler will become hard it will lose its flexibility something else to consider is a water filtration as soon as it exits the tank will make your system last longer there are some types which will empty the water automatically as soon as pressure droops. Something else I noticed is the tank is too close to the wall if that pump is not cooled by the air from the pulley well no need to say it. make sure it gets air as it looks too close to the wall. Great pipe work I like it.
You could install a dryer on the intake or even route some intake plumbing to a cool place like under the shop or an air conditioned room. The cold air is much easier and cheaper to compress than the warm air in the shop.
In addition to the other things you did wrong (which are covered in the first few comments repeatedly) you need to use a hose between the tank and the lines on the wall. The hose will dampen any vibrations before they enter your very nice iron pipe system that you slaved over to install. Otherwise the vibration of the compressor will cause you problems over time. Maybe not in the 3 years since you did this, but it is only a matter of time.
So awesome Eric! it's so beautiful it bought a tear to my eye. really coming up in the world and I can only imagine all the use you get out of that system. good for you! now I'm going to sleep and dream that I had a system like that.
Eric, I'm not sure that that water bleeding system you made up is going to work on that area beside the lift. For it to work, it had to be placed at the beginning of the system, instead of at the end. At the end of the piping the air won't move because there is nothing "pulling" air after that. The one at the area near the tyre machines and the other one near the power strip, seem like are going to work, because they are in vertical line with the pipe that supplies air. Hope I'm being clear enough.
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*After years of hauling around a large,💫 **allabout.wiki/PORTER** heavy, loud dewalt air compressor (that ironically was advertised as quiet, supposedly 78dB), I bought this. Facepalm. While it is not ‘silent’, I find myself chuckling every time I use it, sparing all my neighbors the terror of my former compressor. I use for inflating tires, impact wrench, finish nailers. Absolutely love it. And I store it under the garage sink in a 24” cabinet. I paired with a coil 1/2”, instead of a my former 50’ 5/8” hose that I had to lug across the yard from the shed, unpleasantly uncoil.... this little guy is light and portable; just a joy. Impact wrench is still capable of easing lug bolts, flywheel bolts, crank pulleys... just allow for a tiny bit of recovery now and then.*
People don’t realize how much work goes into some of these systems. Congratulations Eric, nicely done!! 👍👍👍😎🇨🇱
Wow! That thing is *far* quieter than your old compressor. Used to be, when that old one kicked on, your voice was drowned out -- and that was with the compressor all the way across the shop. This one, you're standing right next to it, and you're still audible and understandable. Sweet!
wrong oil, you need at the very least a non-detergent oil. The reason being is that modern engine oils are designed to keep shavings in suspension so they can be removed by the filter, a non-detergent oil allows crap to settle to the bottom of the crankcase where it wont do any damage
Also detergent oils will foam in this application
you need a flex line between compressor and wall plumbing thats a ticking time bomb. id have it no less then 6" from the wall.
I love how incredibly far you've come and how much you've grown, Eric, since we all came to know you in that first little shop you started ETCG in. Really proud of you!
Stay dirty.
Finally getting your shop all the goodies it deserves. Congratulations!
Nice compressor. BUT you need to move it away from the wall. The cooling fan on the compressor head needs better air flow. Run a flex line from the tank to the wall, solid pipe will tear the fitting loose from the tank (Easy place to get the line is a farm supply place. Just get a short hydraulic line in the correct size)
CHANGE THE OIL OUT ASAP Compressors use a specific NON detergent oil in a straight weight. (20 or 30 weight) Regular auto oil will damage the compressor due to the additives that will cause carbon build up on the valves and foaming in the bottom of the compressor head.
Add an auto drain to the tank OR go get a "wet" tank drain, those have a lanyard that you can extend up to the switch area to pull and open the drain. Less likely to forget that way.
As for a drier, It depends on just how much air you will use at one time. IF you plan on becoming a full on body shop doing that work then get one of the big powered units. If you plan on doing what you have been doing then just buy one or two of the large desiccant style units and a second charge of the desiccant beads. Then when the beads soak up the water you change them out and simply bake the old ones to reactivate them.
Of course, since this video was shot a while back you may have done all this already...........
You can tell in Eric's voice he's excited like a kid on Christmas. Love this - nice job, Eric!
Eric it's so nice to see that your equipments are getting an upgrade! You deserve it! Thanks so much for all the repair tips. I'm a diy-er and you have been a great help!
Eric, you're way too close too the wall. You need to find the specs on the cooling (or call the guys) distance for that machine.
Turbulence produced by the built in fan and the wall don't mix in well.
That's what i was thinking. Ours said 12 inches or maybe even more
Campbell Hausfeld recommends 18" all the way around for 60 gallon, twin cylinder, single stage.
Congrats Eric...I have been subscribed to your channel since the beginning when you had less then 100 subscribers, and I'm happy for you and where your at right now...good for you bro!
Eric, yelling: “PRETTY QUIET, TOO.”
My dad recently was given a spare A/C machine from where he works, they give surplus equipment to the employees rather than selling it off or junking it, another guy got a tire machine and balancer already, so when this A/C machine came up he made sure and grabbed it first. He's had a spar tank of refrigerant for years, and now finally has a machine to go with. He thought about getting a set of gauges and a vacuum pump, but he really wanted the ability to recover the system rather than let it escape if there is any in there.
+EricTheCarGuy Proud of you Eric, have been watching since forever ago and remembered the first drum brake video. You were so happy about 100 subscribers, you said you won't gonna give up and out there for us (100 people, lol). Look how far you've come. I mean look at your shop! A lift, air, maybe employees in the future. Aren't you glad you got out of that little shop years ago, even if that was a terrible experience. Keep on keepin on Eric, your honesty, values and content will keep us comin back for sure!
Eric!! I'm pretty happy that you are growing!! Every time you have more equipment!!!Congratulations!!
This had to be the high point and most hopeful for a long future in this shop;./ The fact that it ended so soon after is a real punch in the gut and shows just how much dedication you gave to the infrastructure of it all. If someone had told you then that you would get booted 5 years later what would you have done differently? For one a ten year lease with another ten year option if not ownership equity in the property./ It still hurts me to this day. I hope you come south to the West Coast of Florida. Maybe join up with Rainman Ray's or just open your own new shop with interns that want to learn the trade. You are a great teacher.
Now you need a sandblast cabinet. Very handy for suspension and brake parts cleanup.And they can usually be found at reasonable prices. I'm digging all the new tools, congratulations.
Dude. AWESOME! Congrats on the new gear, can't wait to see them in action
A large factory I worked on a few years ago, estimated that all their lines/compressors/fittings leaking - Which they do after a while - Costed a bit over a $100k each year - So they added this to their budget. Got every single leak fixed, and they have a person assigned to fix it when something starts to leak - And they save a huge ammount every year just by fixing this. But thats a factory with thousands of workers - I guess you wont save much by fixing the leaks, but at least you get rid of the constant hissing noise though. Great vid as always!
That compressor looks way too close to the wall. The large pulley on the pump is also a cooling fan for the pump. Being that close to the wall may restricts airflow that is needed to cool the pump. I don't know what the manual for your compressor says on distance from wall, but most give say to keep it a foot or two from the wall.
+shadowdog500 I agree, maybe turn the compressor around a 1/4 or half turn.
+shadowdog500 The Bendpak manual for their compressors says: "Install and operate unit at least 24” from any obstructions in a clean, well ventilated area. The surrounding air temperature should not exceed 100* F. This will ensure an unobstructed flow of air to cool compressor and allow adequate space for maintenance."
+shadowdog500 Simple solution: cut a hole in the wall! lol. Fresh air all day every day.
+anti0918 I live in Phoenix, AZ. It hasn't been below 100F for four months.
+shadowdog500 another problem ...Eric needs to move the thermostat for his HVAC ..now heat will come off the compressor and make the thermostat give a false reading ..= his heat in the winter will not be accurate ..
Turn it down to 150psi to save the start capacitor & all those ball valves. This is the best shop set up i've seen so far. Those t's with couplers is a great idea. Problem we're having with the 2 compressors at work is that braided steel line between the pump & the tank burns up then blows apart. I had some spare 3500psi hydraulic hoses made up. The set up at work is 2 - 120 gallon compressors piped together to maintain 150psi 24/7 to run a double 16 milking parlor. They each have 60 amp breakers that sometimes trip. Wait till you see the power you have now in your impact wrench!
Great air system Eric! I worked for a few years installing such systems and there should not be a single leak anywhere. Wish I was there to help you. I used to thread black pipe with a pipe threader. You really need to put a mesh flex hose between the compressor and the wall for vibration. I love your shop!! Jealous, LOL!
Tim the Tool Man would be proud! Awesome shop.Can I suggest adding a automatic blow down valve for the tank drain at the bottom at the tank and vented to the outside with copper tube. You can set the duration and how often it opens. I think they are around $60. Great video!
forget vibration pads hockey pucks work 10x better trust me and are 5 bucks for plenty. Also want a flexpipe somewhere at the steel pipe to help with vibration and service
ohhh nice tip on the pucks. and I was thinking the same about vibration on the line right after the compressor. even a little vibration could make it crack.
You may want to consider drains on your horizontal runs. Black pipe will cool the hot air from the compressor creating water in the pipe. You can build a after cooler for less than $100 bucks, significantly reducing water in your tank. (it will rust from the inside out) The elbow at the tank drain will block with a ice plug when you drain it, something to keep in mind. What do you think about getting a auto drain? The auto drain with the after cooler will significantly extent the life of your tank. Lastly, a short brass extension pipe at your oil drain will save you from a mess. All lessons I learned the hard way.
first of all very very happy to see you progressing step by step.
but on the other hand what I see in future is eric the car guy with a modernised fully equipped workshop where everything is being done on machines and everything and people would miss the old eric the car guy with nothing but just hand tools and swapping engines over a period of not hours but days.
but over all its always nice to see someone making progress who has struggled but keep going no matter what.
keep it up we will still be watching you
I always like the idea of pointing a little fan at the business end of things. Nice set-up.
I'm so jealous of the tire changer and balancer!!! Not even regular mechanics have these in there shops and these are essential for tire emergencies!
Eric, you should never use oil with detergents in a compressor. It will destroy the pump over time. You should use synthetic compressor oil only. Amsoil makes good compressor oils.
I don't want to punch you in your face. I want to be happy for you. You give back and help others out. So, you are well deserving of your new equipment. Bless you Eric and stay dirty!
Ketchup and Mustard, haha! I like your shop!
+Jacob Frey And Elvis!
So happy for what this RUclips channel has done for you! I'm genuin happy that you now have the posibilities you have!
I ran about 30 feet of copper pipe between the compressor and the tank. I purchased 10 foot lengths of copper pipe and cut them in half. I then had them run up-down-up-down in a "S" pattern. I sandwiched the pipes between two sheets of aluminum. The air is hottest when in comes right out of the compressor head. So hot that it will melt ordinary soldered copper joints and blow apart. So I used compression fittings for the first 2 feet. You could probably "braze" the connections and not have any problems, since braze doesn't lose its strength until a much higher temperature. So the air temp is hottest coming out of the compressor. That is where you will have the greatest opportunity to extract the heat. After the air runs through the "radiator" it cools down to the ambient air temp and goes into the tank. So you get MORE air in the tank (because it is cool air: PV=nRT). You get about 1.5 to 2 times as much air crammed into the tank! It made a tremendous difference (and did not cost $1000). More air that is cool and ALMOST ALL of the moisture condensates in the tank. I installed a air/water/moisture separator at the out put of the tank. It caught the last remnants of moisture. Impact tools hit harder on denser air. After I did that modification, didn't ever have a moisture problem.
FYI tip get a leader hose from the compressor to the system. The vibrations even the small ones will loosen and deforme the threads on the pipe.
Excellent setup! The only thing that could possibly be better is if you owned the property. By the way, the piping does not add very much volume. I took part in an all day seminar about compressed air systems that was a complimentary benefit from NIPSCO, our local utilities company. Every audible air leak on a system that runs 365 days a year will waste approximately $1,000.00 per year.
Happy that you are 'Movin on up'!!! Pay attention to where the building thermostat is above the HOT compressor!!!!! Stay Dirty!!!
+Jay Briggs I don't use the furnace in the shop so no worries.
+EricTheCarGuy He'd know that already if he was a proper fan, because you've stated on numerous occasions how much they want to charge you just to have the gas connection before any usage charges ;)
LOL! I'm no bigger than a chicken wing and need heat!!! 5-9 and 125 pounds!!!
+MegaZemor I was rich before I had money. I have my health and a great family.
+MegaZemor Not sue what you're getting at here so Im just going to wish you good day.
The Mac Daddy of air compressors. I LIKE it.
This is great to see the shop growing. It would be good to see Eric and Paul Danner do a fixing it forward project out of Eric's shop.
I don't wanna punch you. I feel that your hard work has paid off. It just means we will be getting better how to's and more in depth of other processes that the DIY doesn't necessarily have the equipment to do, but will be shown how it's done.
Hello Eric great videos. I am an older hobby mechanic. But your videos have gave me lots of knowledgeable information. Years ago a person would have to just jump in and do it. End result was breaking it,stripping it, etc.. Great videos keep up the good work. But I have a suggestion for you. Rotate or move your compressor from the wall. Let it breath,let the pulley circulate better. Also I would suggest putting a rubber flexible line between the compressor and the wall. Vibrations from he pump could cause leaks in piping. Piping looks excellent great job . Wish I had a shop as nice as that. You deserve it.
Eric - a suggestion for your air hoses at the bendpak station - get a few retractable reels - it will clean up the area and you won't have hose hanging all over the walls.
Like your compressor setup. I also have a 5HP compressor with a smaller tank and I used an automobile AC condenser between the compressor and tank for a dryer. No fan required and it works great. Causes the blow down to be longer.
On two stage air compressors majority of the noise it makes when it runs is from the valves in the head of the compressor. To reduce some of the noise try look into a intake muffler that mounts between the intake filter and the first stage intake of the compressor. There is an noticeable reduction of noise when your compressor runs. Also look into installing a electric "Auto Condensate Valve" on your tank condensate drain. Install it per the piping directions, plug it into a 110v wall outlet adjust the frequency and duration of time between each purge and you wont ever worry about condensate build-up in your tank.
WOOOOW you've come a long way!!! Nice job with the pipe hook ups!! It's great that you were able to locate and repair the leaks, and even do minor repairs, etc. Very happy for you that you're pretty much prepared to do just about anything! Thanks for sharing. Take care.
this reminded me of when I was a kid and kids would invite you to their house to show you their new toys, I always liked that was fun to see how excited they got :-)
Very nice. I'm jealous, and happy for you. The compressors inn the shop I work at have an adjustment in the pressure switch, so pressure can basically be regulated right at the compressor. It seems like 170 psi would burn up air tools pretty quickly, but maybe not. Ours is kept at 120 for the shop and there is a regulator on the line into the paint booth to cut it back to 90 psi for the painter to spray with. We have lots of water drains like yours and I empty the compressor tanks and all the water traps three times a week and always get water from all of them.
I'm Happy for you Eric. my mouth dropped when I saw the tire machine and balancer. congrats good sir.
The backstory and intro to the new air compressor was sick!
It's really inspiring to see that you're moving on up in the world Eric! I can't wait for some more of Fairmont build videos.
Get most of the water out of the compressed air before it goes into the tank: Place a large cross flow / high flow condenser unit after the pump, before the tank with a check check valve just before it enters the tank. Tee at the bottom with an automatic water separator (spring loaded plate in the bowl, when under pressure it is closed. When pressure is released by the unloader, it automatically drains) at the lowest point before it goes into the tank. There are universal condensers that you can use or you can reclaim one from a pickup truck. If you are worried about air flow, then use two of them. By drastically lowering the temperature of the air as it comes out of the compressor head you are pushing the moist air through its dew point where the water will condense on all that lovely surface area inside the condenser and fall out of the air. Put dry air into your tank and you won't get water in the bottom of it. Put dry air in your tank and you won't get wet air in your lines. You can see examples of people who have done this very thing on RUclips if you search for Air Compressor Aftercooler Condenser.
DUDE! That looks/is so, so, so, awesome! Always stoked for new videos, but now I'm even more excited!
That has me very excited to see how well the repairs go. Can't wait to see the next set of new videos Eric.
I know this is an old video, and I don’t know if anyone has said anything about this but a helpful tip from a Union Pipefitter.... Tape the thread then put dope on it and screw ot together. Also put a smear of dope on your faces of the Union and never sneeze on the thread and back side. Almost never will leak at the threads and it makes tightening your Union easier. Not a bad piping job tho. Only thing I would change is having it come out of the compressor, 90 down with a chunk of pipe to a tee, take your supply off the Bullhead and run a chunk off the other side with a valve. That will catch most moister and help with water in your system.
I know it's from 2015 but, I thought we had you when I didn't notice a regulator on the far side. Then you pulled out the regulator/filter and I was sitting here thinking to myself, "Tire machine", "Balancer", "4-way couplers", "Freaking regulator/filter"....YEP, punch this lucky SOB right in the kisser....Dam good job getting that all squared away......Pipe fitting is a *B*.
Great addition for the shop, you can never have too much air available. I have to add after working in shops for 40yrs+(ouch) heat and lack of simple maintenance is what kills air compressors. Periodic oil changes and intake filter cleaning go a long way. One important point I want to make is the flywheel/pulley on the compressor is also a fan, the belt guard should be 5-6 inches from the wall to allow enough airflow around the compressor to cool it. It may only be a problem when it runs often but why lose money by shortening the lifespan? I'm not being critical I'm just offering what I know from my experience.
thats real cool man, congrats you keep on movin up. The more the merrier, been watchin since you started, so cool to see you grow and get more/better tools and equipment.
I gotta say. I really enjoy your show. Do not change or sell out. Ps I think it's funny when you talk about "Eric The Car Guy" in third person. Best wishes
Eric move the compressor 4" away from the wall it will over heat, ask me how I know, The pulley on the pump is a fan.
+EricTheCarGuy Great setup, and good job on the pipe fitting! I did notice a few things that concern me a bit. The compressor seems to be very close to the wall, not leaving any room for the compressor pulley to move air over the compressor. I also noticed that you have your tire filler connected after the oiler, I can't imagine oil being very good for tires. Last thing I saw was that there was no flexible link between the compressor tank and the piping.
Yep, noticed that too. Then Bendpak manual says minimum of 2 ft clearance all around. I also notice it's going straight to solid piping. I hope it doesn't shake the pipes loose.
Nice job Eric! You might want to think about installing a SS flex hose between the compressor and fixed black pipe to avoid any vibrations issues. Also, the black metal pipe is definitely better than PEX, because it acts like it's own built in condenser, as it cools the hot air the farther you get away from the compressor, condensing the water out.
Now you just need an automatic purge for the drain valve. You can set it to open for a few seconds every few hours. Since you are probably like the rest of us and will forget to drain the tank on occasion, it will save your tank a lot of rust. There was a lot of moisture in there after filling it up.
Hey man it's really fun to see the shop evolve. First the lift now the air system and OMG tire machine and balancer. Really cool! Now we expect many more how to videos! Lets get that Fairmont running 10's!
Glad to see you so happy about something so well deserved my man. Great start to a Wednesday!
If you find you have a lot of water build-up in your tank, you might want to look into an automated purge system for the tank drain, can usually get good ones that you can program to purge after X-amount of hours of the compressor running.
Yes, very nice setup. One little suggestion would be to use these self reeling rolls for the extension wires and air hoses.
congrats on being able to acomodate your expansion Eric.
I know its far to late, but in the future when you have air flow problems you'll find that steel piping you used to save some $$ has corroded inside decreasing the diameter and making it extremely bumpy inside. Copper, aluminum, and stainless steel are the only options when hard piping in an air line. The moisture in the air is whag will cause your steel line to corrode.
I hope you placed it with enough space between the wall so the compressor fan can suck air to cool the pump? It looks pretty tight.
I agree! It looks like there's a cooling fan built into the right side of the system, and the entire thing is mounted too close to the wall. Was it the rule-of-thumb being half the diameter...full diameter?...of the fan blades clearance behind and in front of the cooling fan itself for adequate clearance? We don't want to see your set-up prematurely!
+Oh Kay I think the rule was full diameter. I remember because my old air cooled compressor came with a cardboard cutout that would fit around the housing and you weren't supposed to touch anything within that area.
The Bendpak manual says 24" space all around. Maybe he misread it as 24mm.
she'll be right
+anti0918 You seem damn obsessed with the manual for this. If we all did things by the book, we'd have a lot less fun, and if this thing fails due to lack of airflow despite the dedicated cooling fan on the engine, the meshed cover, the space between it and the wall, then the company still has a fair bit of work and improvement to do.
You really stepped it up Eric. Some pretty cool tools and machines you have now. Love the new compressor.
Just to note there is a pretty large pressure drop(10 psi or so) across the quick connects when using high consumption tools and it only compounds as you couple more together. I found this out after adding a 3 ft flexzilla whip to my impact. Noticeable performance difference. You have higher psi but still a potential issue.
Also you should have a flex joint (rubber hose) between compressor and piping to reduce vibration.
Buy a hose reel. well worth the money.
Eric just loves his hose ;)
My compressor, not as big as yours but big enough for me, had a sound level of 98 decibel when running, so it was loud (deafening). Then i made an intake system that draws air from outside and muffels the sound. I borowed a decibel instrument, a real one that proos use, and got the decibel level down to 76. Its still loud, but you can stand next to it while running with out losing your hearing. And also, get some wall mounted hose reels and cabelreels, keeps the shop cleaner and tangel free.
Eric, that is a nice setup. I need to do something like that in my garage. Thanks for sharing. Douglas.
eric is one hard worker you deserve all these good things.
I was glad to hear your union comment. That was going to be my first suggestion. But easy to add after the fact (like you did).
BTW, your landlord is awesome!
Had headphones on wasn't expecting that bomb of a line purge ha great stuff. Love the set up hopefully you have worked out the leaks. I have been watching your videos for years Im glad everything is coming together for you.
Scott P It hurt Eric's ears too
What I did with mine was to put a regulator and filter trap near the compressor as a master pressure control for the highest pressure required in the shop. Then I fit the lower pressure regulator at the workbench and other stations.
The best other idea I found was to fit an oiler adapter that does not allow tools that require lubrication will not fit directly on to air only fittings.
ETCG is moving up like George & Weesy. Thanks for another great video, Eric.
Nice video as usual. Eric I have learned lot's from you, I am just a shady tree mechanic as I think it is called in the States.
Having worked in construction most I my life I can give something back, I agree totally that the bolt holes on the feet of the compressor could be a bit further out but we have what we have. If it was me, I would position the unit, mark the concrete, move the unit out of the way, drill the holes and then reposition the unit. (Yes I do know it's heavy!)
Harvey, UK
How is it possible that you have over a million subscribers????? Incredible...
I agree with everyone else about the compressor being too close to the wall. The "fan" in the flywheel won't move any air for cooling, it will just cavitate, just like putting a box fan against a wall. Also, get an automatic water drain for the tank, it will save you time and you won't have to remember to drain it.
You can run an air intake the the top of the shop and install a larger filter (Grainger) and the DB level will drop amazingly.
Use a flexible hose to connect the compressor to your output piping. The vibration from the compressor may break the solid pipe connection and by using a flexible hose, it will be a little quieter.
Congrats on how much your shop has grown Eric! You da man!
What a great setup you have now! It truely has been a thrill watching you build the shop in to what you want. It hasn't come over night but boy you've earned it. Thanks for taking us along for the ride.
@ 22:06 When your new air system is so robust your shop starts falling apart around it.
Eric, you now have enough air power to justify a sandblast cabinet or even a plasma cutter! That's the main reason I went with a huge compressor similar to yours... As far as the condensate drain, I've contemplated running a pipe/hose right through the wall to the outside. Not sure if you have that option though.
Eric your child like glee was fun to watch, thank you for the video and I look forward to learning more from you in the future.
Keep up the good work.
bad ass system seeing u grow is inspiring ...one thing I would of done differently is put a T where u got the 90° reducer after the union coming right off the tank put a small peace of pipe on bottom on the t to a ball valve so all condensation from the lines would run to that ball valve and small piece of pipe and not back into your tank that's just personal preference badass system
Looks good! Plenty of versatility and can't beat nearly free supplies! I guess if you ever end up with some vibrration in the piping you could always install a flexible line in that little 6" run right out of the compressor. Also, I wonder if you could route the tank drain through the wall to the yard outside via a small hole in the wall? Would be one less mess to clean up.
that pipe if left with the oiler will become hard it will lose its flexibility something else to consider is a water filtration as soon as it exits the tank will make your system last longer there are some types which will empty the water automatically as soon as pressure droops. Something else I noticed is the tank is too close to the wall if that pump is not cooled by the air from the pulley well no need to say it. make sure it gets air as it looks too close to the wall. Great pipe work I like it.
Oh man I am so jealous! You must be SO EXCITED! I know I would be!!!
it's not the mac daddy if you want the mac daddy get a cair
You could install a dryer on the intake or even route some intake plumbing to a cool place like under the shop or an air conditioned room. The cold air is much easier and cheaper to compress than the warm air in the shop.
Now what you need is an automatic AC servicing machine and you're in business!
In addition to the other things you did wrong (which are covered in the first few comments repeatedly) you need to use a hose between the tank and the lines on the wall. The hose will dampen any vibrations before they enter your very nice iron pipe system that you slaved over to install. Otherwise the vibration of the compressor will cause you problems over time. Maybe not in the 3 years since you did this, but it is only a matter of time.
that smile of his, like a kid on xmas
Proud of you mate. That is way, learn something new, dare to try, save heaps, I hate to hear slight leak as well, I will fix and fix and fix.....
So awesome Eric! it's so beautiful it bought a tear to my eye. really coming up in the world and I can only imagine all the use you get out of that system. good for you! now I'm going to sleep and dream that I had a system like that.
Very impressive Eric!, I'm sure this new air compressor will definitely make working in the shop a whole lot more easier and faster
Eric, I'm not sure that that water bleeding system you made up is going to work on that area beside the lift. For it to work, it had to be placed at the beginning of the system, instead of at the end. At the end of the piping the air won't move because there is nothing "pulling" air after that.
The one at the area near the tyre machines and the other one near the power strip, seem like are going to work, because they are in vertical line with the pipe that supplies air.
Hope I'm being clear enough.